Growing
Only Harvest Chives Once The Leaves Grow To A Reasonable Height - We Share How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Chives Harvesting The Leaves Harvesting The Flowers Using & Storing Chives Chives are a culinary herb closely related to onions, garlic, leeks and other alliums. “My favourite plant in my garden has to be the chives I have split and moved with me for 36 years because potato salad without chives is just wrong,” says Katherine Crouch, a Garden Designer. They are relatively easy to grow and can be used in a wide range of ways in your kitchen. They are useful in a garden too – helping in organic pest control. Harvesting this common herb is one of the easiest garden jobs around. In this guide, we share the basic things you should remember when harvesting chives. When To Harvest Chives Chives can be harvested as soon as the long, hollow leaves grow to a reasonable height, which is typically from early summer onwards. They will then continue to grow over the summer and will flower before they die back in autumn, before returning the following spring. You can continue to harvest chives little and often throughout the summer months and into autumn – and keep cutting leaves from your chives plants until they begin to die back in the autumn. Harvesting The Leaves To harvest chive leaves, simply take some gardening scissors and cut off the hollow leaves around 2cm or so from the base. You can harvest a whole clump at once or, if you only need a few chives at a time, take a few at a time from around the edges of a clump. The more you harvest, the more new leaves will regrow. However, you will need to wait a few weeks for new chives leaves to grow tall enough to harvest once more. Harvesting The Flowers If you only take a few chive leaves from around the edges of a plant, then the plant should still flower if it is happy and healthy in its location. Just before they fully open, you can harvest the flowers too. Simply snip these off and you can use them in salads or as a garnish. If you wish to continue to harvest the leaves, then you should remove flowers either through harvesting, or by removing faded flowers if you have not used them all. It is important to remove the flowers if you want to make sure that the plant continues to produce new leaves. However, remember that flowering chives can also be useful for growing in the garden. Leave some for the bees and other pollinators and the other beneficial insect life that they attract. “Chives, or Allium schoenoprasum, are great ornamental plants as well as edible herbs,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist with almost 15 years of experience. “Its flowers are a resource for a range of pollinators; a tasty treat for you and the non-human residents in your garden.” Using & Storing Chives Try to harvest chives as and when you need them and as close to when you require them as possible. They don’t fare all that well once they are cut and are best used right away. If, however, you would like to store some chives to cook in recipes later in the year, you could consider chopping some chives and freezing these in ice cubes of water that you can then use as needed.
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Start A Herb Garden In 7 Steps With Malcolm Dickson, Herb Society Treasurer
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Decide Where To Plant Herbs 2) Choose The Right Soil 3) Plan (And Plant!) 4) Choose Complementary Herbs 5) Consider Raised Beds 6) Or Spiral Herb Gardens… 7) Care For Your Outdoor Herbs FAQs Growing herbs at home in your garden can be a wonderful way to use up your outdoor space. Although it might seem overwhelming to start with, when you make the right decisions and think carefully about your own specific garden, you can grow a wide range of culinary herbs wherever you live in the UK. In this guide, we collaborate with Malcolm Dickson, Treasurer of The Herb Society. 1) Decide Where To Plant Herbs When planning a herb garden, one of the first things to think about is where you will grow the herbs. A dedicated herb garden can be useful because the herbs that you require will all be in one specific part of your garden and will therefore be easy to harvest. It can also be useful to have herbs close to your kitchen (such as near your back door) so that you can minimise the time it takes to gather them when you need them. “The key to your first outdoor herb garden is to find an area which is south or southwest facing and is a warm part of the garden,” says Malcolm. A dedicated herb garden might be a: Collection of different herbs in pots and containers. Vertical garden. Typical herb spiral or other specialist raised bed. A strip of in-ground planting alongside paths. Planting them around and between other plants that you grow can also be beneficial, as herbs, especially aromatic types, can attract pollinators and other beneficial insects which aid in pest control. Herbs can often also help to confuse, distract or repel pest species, keeping crops and other precious plants safe in an organic garden. You might grow herbs: As companion plants with other edible crops in a kitchen garden. In mixed perennial planting schemes or in a flowering border. Below and around trees and shrubs in a fruit tree guild, forest garden or food forest. 2) Choose The Right Soil Herbs cover a very wide range of plants utilised for culinary use, so it is important to remember that different herbs can have very different growing requirements. It is important to think about the specific herbs that you would like to grow and to determine the conditions that they like. Often, it can be helpful to think about where those plants come from in order to understand the conditions that they will prefer. For example, many common culinary herbs come from the Mediterranean region. These thrive in full sun in a warm spot, with free-draining and not necessarily particularly fertile soil. “The soil should be free-draining and not too rich in humus,” Malcolm says. “Gritty and poor soil is best.” Other herbs, however, require very different conditions and might need much more moisture-retentive soil and could prefer an area with higher nutrient availability. Most herbs like full sun, but some will thrive in somewhat shadier conditions, in light or dappled shade. 3) Plan (And Plant!) Planning where you will plant herbs and which herbs you will grow should go hand in hand. Make sure that you understand the environmental needs and preferences of the different herbs that you would like to grow and think about how you can best meet those needs. Some preparation will likely be required before you plant your herbs, whether you are growing in a dedicated herb garden, or in a mixed planting scheme. For a dedicated herb garden you may need to: Source containers or create planting structures. Build raised bed edging and fill raised beds. For mixed planting schemes, you may need to obtain other plants such as trees, shrubs, flowering perennials or annual vegetables before you plant your herbs. Many herbs can be sown from seed in spring, but it is also often possible to plant cuttings or young purchased plants. The best strategy will depend on your budget, and also on the specific herbs that you have chosen to grow, as some are far easier to grow from seed than others. 4) Choose Complementary Herbs When planning a dedicated herb garden, it is important to think about the herbs you wish to grow in terms of their relation to each other. Some herbs can be excellent companions for one another – others, not so much. “Plant useful hardy perennial herbs such as oregano, chives, common thyme, parsley, rosemary, lemon balm and green sage to form the core of your herb garden,” advises Malcolm. “Then you can add the annuals during the season in any available spaces.” When thinking about which herbs are best planted together, it is important to consider: Whether the herbs you wish to grow are annual, biennial or perennial. Whether the herbs like full sun or partial shade. The soil conditions that the specific herbs will prefer. The water, moisture and humidity needs of the herbs. Their vigour, root form and growth habit. For example, Rosemary can quickly become large for its allocated space if not pruned back regularly, Oregano can spread and flop over its neighbours if not reduced to a smaller size in the spring and Lemon Balm can self-seed around the garden if allowed to flower and set seed. 5) Consider Raised Beds If you would like to integrate herbs into other plantings, one of the most common ways to do so is to use herbs as companion plants in the raised beds in vegetable beds. When using herbs as companion plants for fruit and vegetable crops, one of the most important things to think about is whether they are annual or perennial. Annual herbs like basil, coriander, dill, anise, and borage can be sown and planted alongside common culinary crops and grown in crop rotation schemes alongside them. Like annual vegetables and fruits, annual herbs will grow outdoors only over a single season in the UK. Borage is a particularly beneficial companion crop in kitchen gardens and it is said to promote the growth of many other plants when they are growing close by. Remember to give Borage plants at least 30cm spacing as they become quite large. It brings in pollinators and other beneficial wildlife, as well as providing an edible yield in its own right. Basil is a particularly beneficial companion crop to grow alongside tomatoes, peppers or aubergines as it deters whitefly and aphids, whilst anise is said to increase essential oil production of other herbs, making them more effective in organic pest control and potentially improving their flavour. Perennial herbs are not included as easily in annual crop rotation schemes. However, it can be beneficial to think about planting perennial herbs around the edges of annual raised beds. They can be placed either around the edges of the bed itself, along the edges of paths between the beds or in separate raised beds around the fringes of the space. 6) Or Spiral Herb Gardens… If you decide to make a dedicated herb garden rather than incorporating herbs into other planting schemes, then your goal should be to create a growing area which can provide the growing conditions for as wide a range of herbs as possible. Remember, different herbs can have very different needs. In a single flatbed, you cannot meet the needs of all the different culinary herbs that you would like to grow. A spiral herb garden is a raised bed of a very specific shape and form, which aims to address this issue. Herbs like rosemary, basil, and parsley would not usually grow particularly happily in the same bed because they have rather different growing needs, but if you create a herb spiral, all can be grown in a relatively constricted space. A herb spiral is a bed which, as the name suggests, is a spiral shape, higher in the middle and lower towards the outside. The idea is that the spiral bed creates a range of different growing conditions. The top of a herb spiral creates drier conditions and accommodates deeper-rooted herbs, whilst the southern side is sunnier and warmer and the northern side is shadier, moister and cooler. Creating a herb spiral is a great solution for those who would like to grow as many herbs as possible in as concentrated an area as they can. See this guide for more herb garden ideas (both indoors and outdoors). 7) Care For Your Outdoor Herbs If growing annual herbs, remember that they will have to be sown each year, but perennial herbs will remain in your garden over a number of years. Aside from sowing, annual herbs will usually just need to be harvested in a timely fashion. Perennial herbs can be very low-maintenance but may benefit from additional care like pruning in certain cases. If you’re growing borderline-invasive plants like mint then you will need to control their spread through regular cutting back – as they can quite easily take over a space when left to their own devices. “I have found it is easiest to grow mint in its own stand-alone pots, otherwise over time the roots spread through the border and it becomes difficult to remove,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. Mostly, as long as environmental and watering needs are met, caring for plants in a herb garden should be fairly easy and straightforward. “Herbs generally grow well together but need regular cutting back to minimise overcrowding,” says Malcolm. “It is better to be cruel to be kind!” FAQs How Can I Keep Ants And Other Bugs Out Of My Herb Garden? Ants can sometimes colonise areas of free-draining and drier soils. As many Mediterranean herbs like free-draining conditions, gardens containing these herbs may be attractive to ants. Remember, ants are not necessarily a problem. In fact, they are a beneficial part of a garden ecosystem and will likely not do any damage to your herbs. Simply attract other wildlife to your garden to keep the ecosystem in balance and pest species in check. Can You Freeze Fresh Herbs From The Garden? Yes, many fresh herbs from the garden can be frozen by chopping them and placing them in ice cube trays filled with water or olive oil. Many herbs can also be dried for later use. How Deep Should A Herb Garden Be? This depends on which herbs you would like to grow. Herbs like yarrow, for example, have very deep roots, while many herbs have much shallower roots and can be grown even in very small planting pockets.
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Choosing Winter-Flowering Viburnum With Gary Ladman From Classic Viburnums Plant Nursery
IN THIS GUIDE 1) V. tinus ‘Eve Price’ 2) V. tinus ‘Gwenllian’ 3) V. tinus ‘Lisarose’ 4) V. tinus ‘Israel’ 5) V. lucidum 6) V. × bodnantense 7) V. × bodnantense ‘Charles Lamont’ 8) V. × bodnantense ‘Deben’ 9) V. farreri 10) V. farreri ‘Album’ 11) V. farreri ‘December Dwarf’ 12) V. carlesii ‘Aurora’ References Not only are they low-maintenance and fairly easy to care for, but viburnums also produce aromatic floriferous blooms that can add a splash of colour to any garden display. In addition to that, there are viburnums that bloom in each of the four seasons – even in winter. We spoke to Gary Ladman, the Co-Owner of plant nursery Classic Viburnums, about his favourite viburnums to grow. “With 150 plus known species and more still being discovered, the genus viburnum offers immense diversity, making it next to impossible to not find a viburnum to fit a particular site or need,” says Gary. “Asking me to name my favourite viburnum is like asking me who my favourite child is! “Viburnums have at least 3 seasons of interest while some also have winter interest, so my favourites are constantly changing as the seasons change. “In other words, they are all my favourites, it just depends on when you ask me.” Underneath I present 12 viburnum varieties that are guaranteed to bring you colourful flowers and foliage, fragrance or berries throughout the dead of winter. Keep in mind that all of the plants listed below can be grown in most soil types with any pH. 1) V. tinus ‘Eve Price’ COMMON NAME(S): laurustinus ‘Eve Price’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: blue FRUITING SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade Viburnum tinus is the undisputed champion of winter-flowering types, and we open with one of its AGM-winning cultivars – ‘Eve Price’.1 Its delightful leaves are perfectly ovate and of a rich green shade. This cultivar produces red buds that open to pink-tinged white flowers in clusters. As buds form and open continuously over a period of time, the happy outcome is clusters of mixed red and white from mid-winter to late spring. 2) V. tinus ‘Gwenllian’ COMMON NAME(S): laurustinus ‘Gwenllian’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: blue FRUITING SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade Bushy and of a naturally tidy habit, ‘Gwenllian’ is another brilliant evergreen shrub, not too dissimilar from ‘Eva Price’. Over much of the season, this cultivar forms bright red buds that open to little star-shaped yellowy-pink flowers which fade to white. This means that you can often see mixed red, pink and white clusters from mid-winter into spring. Autumn brings yet another colour in the form of dark blue berries. This plant is also a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 3) V. tinus ‘Lisarose’ COMMON NAME(S): laurustinus ‘Lisarose’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: blue FRUITING SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade ‘Lisarose’ flaunts rose pink flowering stems in autumn on which pretty buds of the same hue are on show. These start opening in winter, producing round clusters of small pinky-white flowers interspersed with those rose pink buds. The flowers continue into mid-spring with deep blue berries setting in late summer. Reaching around 2m in height and spread, it displays evergreen foliage of a deep green shade. 4) V. tinus ‘Israel’ COMMON NAME(S): laurustinus ‘Israel’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and white SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade While ‘Israel’ displays glossy dark green foliage in winter, the flowers are the real crowd-pleaser. Red flower buds not only form in autumn, but they also open in the same season, with the blooms on show all winter long that continue deep into spring. As a result, you can enjoy dense spherical clusters of small, snowy white flowers for over 6 months of the year. Climbing up to 3m in height and spread, this is a big, evergreen shrub that would be great for hedging. 5) V. lucidum COMMON NAME(S): laurustinus ‘lucidum’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: cream and white FRUIT: blue and black FRUITING SEASON(S): autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade The largest of our winter-flowering selections, ‘Lucidum’ can reach a good 4m tall and wide. It has oblong leaves of a dark, smoky green shade and the winter buds give way to small white flowers which last well into spring. These flowers are borne in flat, lacecap flowerheads which are quite large, at 8-10cm across. Formed in autumn, the deep blue berries provide further winter colour. 6) V. × bodnantense COMMON NAME(S): bodnant viburnum HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: pink and white SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade One of the original winter-flowering varieties, Viburnum × bodnantense is a stunning large shrub that can reach over 3m high. As its deciduous branches become bare in autumn, it starts forming buds that open to reveal small flowers in clusters. Their colour varies from pink-flushed white to candy pink, but they all have the same sweet fragrance. The flowers last long and keep coming through winter and into spring and can sometimes last up to half the year. 7) V. × bodnantense ‘Charles Lamont’ COMMON NAME(S): laurustinus ‘Charles Lamont’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: pink SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade ‘Charles Lamont’ also boasts a fantastic blooming season and it is floriferous as well. In autumn, it sets pinky-red buds which open before winter even arrives into small flowers with a sweet fragrance, covering the denuded tree in clusters of soft pink blooms. These blooms span over winter and well into spring, providing colour for over six months. It is about 2m high with a somewhat narrower profile. This cultivar has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 8) V. × bodnantense ‘Deben’ COMMON NAME(S): arrowwood ‘deben’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: white SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade ‘Deben’ is another viburnum that can flower for over half of the year with its blooms lasting all throughout the winter. This cultivar starts forming buds of a baby pink hue in autumn that open to reveal pink-flushed flowers that fade to white. They release a sweet fragrance and last into spring. ‘Deben’ reaches about 2m in height with a spread of around 1m and has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 9) V. farreri COMMON NAME(S): farrer viburnum HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: white FRUIT: red FRUITING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade Viburnum farreri doubles the winter joy, with rich clusters of white flowers and bright red berries both on display throughout the season. “Viburnum farreri is a great choice for winter interest and is a real treat from autumn right through to the festive period,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “First autumn colour, berries and then flowers, then handing the baton on to the early spring flowering bulbs and shrubs.” The buds set in autumn, whilst the fragrant flowers open in the same season and continue through winter into spring. It rises to about 2m tall and has leaves that display conspicuous veining. This is another variety that has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 10) V. farreri ‘Album’ COMMON NAME(S): farrer viburnum ‘candidissimum’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: white SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade If you’d like to see flowers whiter than the snow that decorate bare branches, this is the cultivar for you. It is of an upright habit and reaches a good 3m in height. Like the above, this cultivar also has prominent veining on its leaves. The little clusters of flowers have a shorter blooming season than the species, with buds forming in autumn and flowers fading at the end of winter, but they are pure white and wonderfully fragrant. 11) V. farreri ‘December Dwarf’ COMMON NAME(S): farrer viburnum ‘December dwarf’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: pink SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Growing to only about 1m high and wide, ‘December Dwarf’ is the most aptly named entry on our list. This tidy deciduous shrub’s deeply-veined leaves display rust and russet autumn colours before its buds and flowers are seen. Clusters of flowers appear on the dwarf’s bare stems in December, as its name suggests, and they last well into spring. They are a soothing pastel pink and are wonderfully fragrant. 12) V. carlesii ‘Aurora’ COMMON NAME(S): arrowwood ‘aurora’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: pink and red FRUIT: black and red FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade Although deciduous Viburnum carlesii shrubs are typically spring-flowering types, ‘Aurora’ reliably sets its buds in winter, with flowers starting to open even before the season bids farewell. Their buds give way to rounded clusters of pastel pink flowers that are sweetly scented. In winter, you can also catch bunches of those red and black berries left over from autumn. Another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit, this delightful shrub is perhaps my favourite on the list. References 1. Ornamental Plants. (2021, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf
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How To Grow Laurustinus Shrubs With Advice From Viburnum Expert Gary Ladman
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Laurustinus Viburnum Tinus Care Common Problems References There’s nothing like a nice shrub to bring depth and a splash of colour to your boundaries and borders, and the Viburnum tinus shrub is a perfect candidate for this. The rich depth of its green leaves is captivating, and the dazzling white-pink floral bloom from late winter through to early spring is a great forerunner to the other flowers in your garden. This guide includes advice from the Co-Owner of Classic Viburnums, Gary Ladman. Overview Botanical Name Viburnum tinus Common Name(s) Laurustinus / Common Laurustinus / Tinus Plant Type Shrub Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Clusters of small white, creamy flowers with a pink tint in the centre followed by dark blue berries When To Plant September-November When To Prune February-May While native to the Mediterranean, this plant has established itself nicely in the UK. Viburnum tinus goes by several names based on the root Laurus, alluding to its similarity to the bay laurel plant. How To Grow Laurustinus You’re best off planting out your Laurustinus in autumn to give it the best chance at taking hold before the harshest conditions set in. Planting out in spring works too, but only for plants already established in containers. Viburnum tinus is quite adaptable, meaning it’s suited to a variety of conditions. “The dappled shade of larger trees and shrubs is perfect for Viburnum tinus, providing shade from intense summer sun and some protection from cold winds,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “A perfect companion for spring bulbs.” As a rule, you’ll want to protect it from chilly wind in the colder months and hot sunshine in the summer. Viburnum Tinus Care Once your viburnum is in the ground, you’ll want to take good care of it to maximise the likelihood of a long and fruitful life. Overwintering As we’ve mentioned, V. tinus is suitably hardy for most British gardens. An RHS hardiness rating of H4 signifies a minimum temperature of between -5 to -10°C – anything below this and your plant may not survive. Unless you live in the furthest northern reaches of Scotland or there’s a particularly punishing winter, you should be able to grow this plant with no issues. Aspect The ideal aspect for Laurustinus is anything but north-facing. The plant enjoys shade or sun and you just need to protect it against the hottest summer rays. You’ll also want to make sure the plant is well sheltered, as cool winds aren’t ideal. Soil Requirements In terms of soil composition, this plant isn’t fussy and will tolerate most soils and pH levels. Soil moisture levels are where you need to be careful as viburnum likes moist but well-drained soil that is never dry but is also not prone to becoming waterlogged. “If you have a particular issue with wet soil, a method you could opt for is to butterfly the root ball,” says Gary. “With your spade or sharp knife, cut through the bottom half of the root ball entirely and spread it out horizontally in the planting hole which is now just half as deep as if you were planting the root ball intact. “This keeps the roots closer to the surface which is going to dry out faster which prevents root rot. “I have planted in situations where water would fill a planting hole as soon as the hole was dug. “Situations such as this require drastic measures where you might have to leave the entire root ball above the ground and backfill with a mound of soil, gradually sloping away from the crown of the plant.” Feeding To ensure healthy growth, you’ll want to test the soil regularly and amend any nutrient deficiencies. It’s recommended to do this every 2-3 years. Using an evenly balanced fertiliser once a year will encourage a vibrant bloom and healthy foliage. Pruning This plant has been placed into pruning group 8 by the Royal Horticultural Society, meaning that it needs little to no pruning once established.1 If you do decide to prune to keep the plant at a manageable size, aim to do this before the growing season begins in mid-spring. Prune after the last frost to reduce the risk of frost damage. Companion Planting This plant goes works really well when planted with Snowdrops, Black Mondo and Lady’s Mantle. Propagation You can propagate this plant by taking cuttings between 8-10 inches long that have multiple growth nodes. Remove all the leaves, dip them in some water and then add rooting hormone. Aim to take cuttings in warm months, as doing so earlier or later may lead to root rot before it takes hold. Common Problems V. tinus is especially vulnerable to two specialist pests, the viburnum whitefly and the viburnum beetle. Viburnum Beetle The larvae of this pest cause the first round of damage, which is then amplified by the adult beetles later in the year. Symptoms include holes in the leaves with the veins untouched and visible cream-coloured larvae from April or grey adult beetles from July. Removing bugs by hand is a good way to control infestations initially, although if they become heavily established pesticide control may be necessary. Encouraging wildlife may help keep them in check too, as birds and other bugs like these beetles as tasty snacks. Viburnum Whitefly These sap-suckers are small flies with white wings that live beneath leaves in the summer and remain present over winter. Unless your viburnum has black sooty mould, whiteflies may not need to be removed. With this in mind, tolerate their presence or attempt to encourage predatory wildlife before looking into pesticide solutions. References 1. Shrubs: pruning evergreens. (n.d.-c). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/shrubs/evergreen-pruning-guide
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Growing Purple-Leaf Cherry Plums: Trees Highly Prized For Their Ornamental Appeal
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Where To Grow Guild Planting How To Plant Purple-Leaf Plums Prunus Cerasifera Care References Purple-Leaf Plum Tree, Prunus cerasifera, is a wonderful ornamental tree that also has edible fruits. This tree is a great choice for those who wish to have a beautiful and productive garden – the best of both worlds – since it will look great throughout the year and will also provide you with an edible yield. Purple-leaf cherry plums are highly prized as garden trees because of their ornamental appeal. There is a lot of variation in size between the species’ cultivars and the exact hue of the foliage throughout the year. Often, the foliage will change colour significantly from spring through summer to autumn, giving a beautiful and exciting display that is never boring. Prunus cerasifera is also a great choice because the deep purple fruits are attractive in their own right and can be eaten and enjoyed when ripe.1 The small plums have thin skins and many have a deliciously sweet flavour, though some are sourer and best cooked with sweeteners. In the UK, the fruits are not often borne in large quantities, but large crops can be produced every 4 years or so. Overview Botanical Name Prunus cerasifera Common Name(s) Purple-Leaf Plum / Cherry Plum Plant Type Tree Native Area Southeast Europe & West Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or pink flower blossom When To Plant October to March Harvesting Months June to September When To Prune June to September P. cerasifera is native to Southeastern Europe and Western Asia, but it has naturalised in the UK, as well as in several other locations in North America and Southeastern Australia.2 P. cerasifera is an ancestor of the cultivated plum and, in the wild, grows into small trees which can grow up to around 8-12m tall. This is one of the first European trees to blossom as the flowers begin to open from mid-February onwards before the leaves emerge. These trees are self-fertile but can also be pollinated by other Prunus varieties. Common Varieties A number of cultivars of this species have been selected for their purple foliage, such as ‘Atropurpurea’, ‘Pissardi’ and ‘Nigra’ – which also has an RHS Award of Garden Merit. ‘Thundercloud’, with deep red-purple leaves, the slightly smaller ‘Krauter Vesuvius’, ‘Newport’ with bronze purple leaves which change to red-purple in the autumn, and the dwarf variety ‘Purple Pony’ are some other options to consider. Where To Grow Purple-leaf plum trees require well-drained yet moisture-retentive soil. They can cope with some light shade but will perform best and fruit far better in full sun. While usually grown in the ground, smaller cultivars can also potentially be grown in large containers. It is H6 hardy and will easily survive winter conditions throughout the UK. Ideally, these trees prefer rich and relatively loamy soil which has an acidic to neutral pH, though they can also grow in moderately alkaline conditions. They may struggle where the soil is too compacted and, since they are shallow-rooted, should not be grown where these roots will be disrupted. They can cope with an exposed location but may perform best in a more sheltered site. These trees are typically grown as stand-alone specimen trees in gardens, but they can also be interesting additions to a woodland garden with other trees that have varied and attractive foliage. Guild Planting Even when grown as an ornamental tree, P. cerasifera, like other fruit trees, will benefit from careful consideration of the plants that surround it. Creating a guild of beneficial companion plants around trees within this genus can help in organic pest control, beneficial wildlife attraction and maintaining soil health and fertility. Like other plums and cherries, purple-leaf plum trees require pollinators for a good fruit set, so it is particularly important to make sure that sufficient pollinators are around early in the year when these trees are in blossom. Prunus trees can also be prone to pest problems, which can be mitigated at least to a degree by the inclusion of plants which repel, confuse or distract them in surrounding guilds. How To Plant Purple-Leaf Plums Purple-leaf plum trees can be planted as bare-root trees over the dormant period in the late autumn, winter or early spring. Pot-grown trees can also be purchased and planted year-round, but planting in extremely wet or dry conditions should be avoided. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and consider adding mycorrhizal fungi, which can aid establishment in certain situations.3 Make sure that the tree is buried to the same depth that it was previously and that a graft point is above soil level. Gently firm the soil around the tree and water it in well. Add a mulch of organic matter around it, but take care not to mound this around the trunk, as this can cause it to rot. Prunus Cerasifera Care Purple-leaf plum trees require some care until they are established, but afterwards, they can be a great choice for a relatively low-maintenance garden. Watering Water well until the tree becomes established and during prolonged periods of drought. Rainfall will usually be sufficient once the tree has become established. Mulch should help to retain soil moisture and reduce watering needs. Feeding Replenish the organic mulch each spring for slow-release fertility. Consider adding guild plants to chop and drop (such as comfrey, for example). Trees grown in the ground are unlikely to require additional feeding, though when growing smaller cultivars in pots, some organic liquid feed may keep the tree in optimal health. Pruning P. cerasifera, like other plums and cherries, are best pruned lightly, and may not require much pruning at all. Hard pruning is not usually a good idea and any pruning that is undertaken should be undertaken after harvest in a dry week but not during drought conditions, which will normally be in June to September in the UK. Later pruning can increase the likelihood of silver leaf and other fungal infections. Common Problems As mentioned above, Prunus can benefit from companion planting for natural pest control. Fungal and bacterial diseases are also common issues for these trees, which may be affected by pocket plum, bacterial canker, blossom wilt, brown rot and silver leaf. “The fungal disease silver leaf (Chondrostereum purpureum) is the main reason we prune during summer in dry (not drought) conditions, as the spores are not normally present in a dry June to September summer,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Keep the trees as healthy as possible to reduce the chances of a problematic infection by maintaining fertility, meeting water needs and pruning lightly and at the correct time. Remain vigilant and remove any infected material as soon as it becomes evident to reduce the chances of its spread. While it is not the most long-lasting tree you could choose for your garden, the purple-leaf plum tree’s attractive foliage and appealing fruits mean that this can still be a great choice in many settings. References 1. Prunus cerasifera. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Prunus+cerasifera 2. Cherry Plum (Prunus cerasifera). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/cherry-plum/ 3. Mycorrhizal Fungi. (n.d.-b). Science Direct. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-012370605-8.50009-8
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Cotoneaster Makes A Great Border And Wall Shrub - But Avoid These Invasive Types
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Planting Cotoneaster Cotoneaster Plant Care Common Problems References Cotoneasters are a huge range of border and wall shrubs which can work well for year-round interest and wildlife-friendliness in many gardens. While it should be noted that some cotoneasters, such as C. horizontalis, are considered invasive species in the UK and can pose a threat to rural ecosystems, many cotoneasters can actually be great choices for British gardens.1 Overview Botanical Name Cotoneaster Plant Type Shrub Native Area Temperate Asia, Europe & Northern Africa Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Evergreen Flowers White or pink When To Plant September When To Prune March Cotoneasters come in a range of shapes and sizes. Some are large shrubs, or even small trees, while others grow only a short height above the ground and make a great ground cover. Some are great for garden borders, whilst others are wall shrubs that can be used to cover a wall or fence. They are native to temperate Asia, Europe and North Africa, with flowers that can range from white through pink, and are followed by vibrant berries in a range of hues. Many cotoneasters are evergreen, providing visual interest all year round. A small number of varieties are considered to be problematic, invasive non-native plants. Invasive species are best avoided by gardeners, as they can be spread to wild ecosystems and have a negative impact on native ecology. Some invasive species to avoid are: C. bullatus C. horizontalis C. integrifolius C. microphyllus C. simonsii Fortunately, there are plenty of other cotoneasters to choose from and these can be hugely beneficial for local wildlife. “Bees will cover flowering plants in the spring and birds will enjoy the berries right into the winter,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. Common Varieties If you are looking for a cotoneaster that will be a good border shrub for your garden, here are some good options to consider: C. amoenus C. frigidus ‘Cornubia’ C. lacteus C. procumbens ‘Queen of Carpets’ C. rhytidophyllus C. ‘Rothschildianus’ C. salicifolius ‘Avonbank’ C. salicifolius ‘Pink Champagne’ C. aff. sternianus C. x suecicus ‘Coral Beauty’ If you are looking for a wall shrub, I’d recommend: C. conspicuus ‘Decorus’ C. franchetii Planting Cotoneaster Cotoneasters are planted like any other shrub. Prepare the soil well and add plenty of organic matter. Dig a planting hole large enough to accommodate the root system. Make sure that the shrub is planted at the same depth that it was in the pot it came in. Firm in the soil around the base of the plant and water it in thoroughly. Mulch with organic matter such as garden compost or bark. Cotoneasters are best planted out in early autumn, when the soil is still warm after the summer, yet reasonably moist. When planted at this time, the plants have time to develop strong root systems by the onset of winter. Cotoneaster Plant Care Cotoneasters are incredibly unfussy and low-maintenance shrubs that can work well for many gardens. If you choose the right cotoneaster for your space, it really won’t need all that much care at all. Soil & Fertilising Cotoneasters require rich soil with plenty of organic matter, which is moist yet free-draining. They can also cope with more free-draining conditions as long as their nutrient needs are met. Most soil types will be suitable, and pH levels are not really important. It is a good idea to mulch around your shrub when planting and to replenish the mulch each spring. Other than this, additional fertilisation will not typically be required as these plants will more or less look after themselves. Light, Temperature & Exposure Cotoneasters can cope with various conditions when it comes to light levels, from full sun through to partial shade, just as long as the shade is not too deep. Watering Cotoneaster should be watered well during their first year whilst they become established. Don’t let the soil dry out during prolonged periods without rain. After the shrubs become established, they will not usually require additional watering as natural rainfall should be sufficient. Pruning How much pruning your cotoneaster will require and how it should be pruned will depend on the variety you are growing. Cotoneasters can have a range of different growth habits and forms. Most cotoneasters will benefit from regular pruning to keep them dense and well-formed, though those grown as small trees usually don’t need much pruning at all. Usually, evergreen types are pruned in early spring and deciduous types a little later, just before spring growth begins. Cotoneasters are usually relatively tolerant of hard pruning, though flowering and berries may be reduced after a hard cutback. Companion Planting Cotoneaster can be combined in beds and borders with many other plants. Many cotoneasters look great at the back of a border, alongside conifers, rowan trees, holly, Chaenomeles japonica, mahonia and many other shrubs. Be sure to consider the eventual size of the cotoneaster you have chosen before planting it with other shrubs. Propagation Cotoneasters can often propagate themselves through layering, which is when a plant’s stems touch the ground and form new roots. These rooted sections can easily be removed from the parent plant and transplanted somewhere else in your garden. Other methods of propagation for cotoneasters include taking softwood cuttings of deciduous types and semi-ripe cuttings of evergreen varieties. Common Problems Cotoneasters tend to be mostly trouble-free, though some cultivars can be susceptible to a bacterial disease called fire blight. If your plant does get fire blight, affected stems should be promptly pruned out and disposed of, ensuring tools are cleaned afterwards. If allowed to spread the disease will soon kill the plant as no chemical controls are available. Why Are My Cotoneaster Shrubs Turning Brown? Remember that some Cotoneasters are deciduous and this may just be a natural part of their life cycle. However, if the leaves of evergreen cotoneaster are turning brown, this could be due to a lack of water. Unfortunately, it could also be fire blight, and all affected plants should have affected growth pruned out, or whole plants removed and carefully disposed of to prevent its spread. References 1. Cotoneaster. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/trees-and-shrubs/cotoneaster
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Here's How To Plant And Care For Caladium Including Where To Keep It In Your Home
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Where To Grow Caladium Planting Caladium Companion Planting Caladium Plant Care References Caladiums are commonly grown as ornamental plants, valued for their large arrow-shaped leaves which have varied patterns on the leaves that appear in white, pink and red. In the UK, caladiums are usually grown as houseplants or as tender tubers in the garden through the summer months. They are highly prized for their ornamental appeal, both when grown indoors and when used outdoors in the garden. Overview Botanical Name Caladium Common Name(s) Angel Wings Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Southern & Central America Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Deciduous When To Plant Spring (if growing outdoors) When To Prune Year-round when needed This genus of plants in the family Araceae are commonly called ‘Angel Wings’, ‘Elephant Ears’ and ‘The Heart of Jesus’. There are over 1,000 named cultivars of caladium, all of which come from the original plant.1 There are 19 species within the genus (according to the Accepted Species listed by Kew) and all of these are native to South and Central America – and naturalised elsewhere in tropical climes.2 Caladiums have been in cultivation in Europe since the mid 18th century, though when grown here in the UK, they do not tend to grow to the same size as they do in the tropics.3 They usually grow to a maximum of around 60cm high and wide, though there are also smaller dwarf cultivars which are now available. Common Varieties Some varieties of caladium to consider growing in the UK are: C. ‘Aaron’ C. ‘Carolyn Whorton’ C. ‘Galaxy’ C. ‘Red Flash’ C. ‘White Queen’ And some other popular varieties to explore: C. ‘Cranberry Star’ C. ‘Festivia’ C. ‘Florida Elise’ C. ‘Frog in a Blender’ C. ‘Rosebud’ C. ‘Sizzle’ C. ‘Spring Fling’ Where To Grow Caladium Caladium thrives in partial shade in the UK where it receives a maximum of 2 hours of direct sun, but most cultivars grow reasonably well in full shade. They do best in moist and rich but well-draining soil when grown outdoors and will appreciate a sheltered site. Caladium tubers can only be grown outdoors year-round in very warm parts of the British Isles, with sheltered and warm micro-climates. However, they can also be grown outdoors over the summer months in cooler spots, as long as they are provided with appropriate growing conditions and lifted and stored before temperatures are consistently below 10°C and certainly before the first frosts. Most UK gardeners will choose to grow caladiums in containers, which can be kept indoors year-round or moved under cover before frost threatens. If growing caladium indoors, you should plant in a peat-free multipurpose compost or DIY equivalent, with reasonably good drainage but also reasonably good water retention. The container should be at least 15cm deep, wide enough to accommodate the tuber and allow for some root expansion. It should be placed in a location which receives good light but is out of direct sunlight. Planting Caladium Caladium bulbs should be started indoors or in a greenhouse in pots in the early spring, usually around 4-6 weeks before all risk of frost has passed in your area. The tubers should be planted so that the growing tip is approximately 5cm below the surface of the growing medium. The compost should be watered sparingly at first and kept at around 20°C to encourage the tubers to wake from their dormant winter phase. If you are planting caladium in a suitable spot outdoors, you should do so once any risk of frost has passed and outdoor temperatures are warm. Dig holes between 5-8cm deep and place a tuber in each one, covering them over with soil. You can also transfer indoor-grown caladium tubers to your garden at this time, taking care to position the container in a suitable shaded spot. Companion Planting Caladiums can be susceptible to aphids and other sap suckers. When growing them outdoors, it may be helpful to add companion plants close by which will attract beneficial insects that can help keep down the populations of aphids and other pests. Angelica, dandelion, feverfew, dill and fennel are just a few examples. To create attractive ornamental schemes, you might grow caladiums alongside other partial shade lovers which add further flowers or interesting foliage, like hydrangeas, hostas, begonias, hellebores, impatiens, convallarias and lamiums. Of course, combining various different caladiums in containers or in the ground can also help you to achieve an attractive display, since there are so many different variants in terms of colour and size to choose from. Caladium Plant Care Watering Caladiums require regular watering over the summer months when grown in containers, but are unlikely to require additional water when grown in the ground unless there is a prolonged period of drought. When watering container-grown plants, make sure that you keep the soil moist, but take care not to overwater and ensure that the container and medium are allowing the water to drain relatively freely. Curtail watering significantly as winter approaches and only water when the growing medium is dry over the colder months. Over the summer months, it is also a good idea to mist caladium leaves regularly with calcium-free water. Caladiums like a humid environment and an indoor location can sometimes be rather dry. Feeding Mulch around caladiums growing outdoors with good quality compost or other organic matter to provide slow-release fertility. Plants grown in containers will also benefit from watering with a balanced organic liquid fertiliser once a month, which will help to keep the plants happy and healthy. Winter Care If you are growing caladium in containers indoors, wait until the leaves die back naturally. When they do, simply leave the caladium bulb in the container and store it for next season at temperatures between 13-16°C. If growing outdoors in all but the warmest regions, bulbs should be lifted and brought indoors before the first frosts. These bulbs should also be stored at between 13-16°C until they are planted again the following year. Repotting Caladiums will generally need repotting every 2-3 years, ideally in spring. Caladium plants do require some careful care, especially when grown indoors, but if you can care for them successfully, they can be attractive plants to have around. References 1. Caladium (Angel Wings, Caladium, Elephant’s Ear). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved May 2, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/caladium/ 2. Caladium. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30005919-2 3. Deng, Z. (2018). Caladium. Springer EBooks, 273–299. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-90698-0_12
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Jasmine Grow Tips And Common Varieties - Star-Shaped Flowers And Intoxicating Aroma
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Jasmine Varieties Planting Jasmine Jasmine Plant Care References Prized for its delicate star-shaped flowers and intoxicating aroma, jasmine is a popular choice for gardeners across Britain. With summer and winter flowering types available, jasmine has climbing and shrub varieties too. Most jasmine blooms are pure white in colour, though there are cream and yellow blossoms in some varieties. Whatever the hue or cultivar, they generally exude a bewitching scent that pleases pollinators as much as it does people. Shrub forms of jasmine are great for growing as a hedge to bring some vibrancy and vivaciousness into your garden in the winter months. Meanwhile, climbers can be trained to scale trellises, fences or walls as an ornamental and olfactory delight. Overview Botanical Name Jasminum Common Name(s) Jasmine Plant Type Perennial / Climber / Shrub Native Area Tropical areas of Eurasia & Oceania Hardiness Rating Varies by type Foliage Deciduous Flowers Delicate, star-shaped flowers that are mostly white but sometimes cream or yellow When To Plant Varies When To Prune After flowering Hailing from the tropical regions of Eurasia and Oceania, most types of jasmine prefer warmer climes as a general rule.1 When growing these, it’s best to confine the plants to a conservatory or greenhouse to protect them from the worst ravages of the weather. However, there are summer and winter flowering species which cope well with the rigours of the British climate, which is why it’s a common sight in homes and gardens around the country. They look great as climbers adorning an external structure or as hedgerows and bushes, bringing wintry colour. As well as having hardy varieties available, there are also evergreen and deciduous types available. Select the cultivar that’s most appropriate for your specific needs. Common Jasmine Varieties As mentioned, there are a variety of different types of jasmine, each of which has its own levels of hardiness, growing habits and flowering seasons. The most widespread species in the UK include: Jasminum officinale Better known as common jasmine, this popular plant is a vigorous climber that can be trained up walls, trellises, archways and pergolas. In the summer months, its vines are awash with clusters of small white flowers which exude a stimulating perfume. J. nudiflorum This species is more commonly called winter jasmine, so there are no prizes for guessing when it flowers. It’s grown as a bush or hedge and carries unscented yellow flowers which burst forth brightly at the turn of the year. J. polyanthum Colloquially known as Chinese jasmine, this species doesn’t do well in colder climes. For that reason, it’s best grown as a houseplant, where its startling pink buds will transform into highly fragrant white blooms in late winter and spring. Planting Jasmine All types of jasmine appreciate fertile soil with good drainage, though they aren’t too fussed about the composition or pH levels. They usually prefer full sun but there are cultivars which will tolerate partial shade, so just check the instructions when buying. As a general rule, summer-flowering jasmines should be planted in spring or summer in a spot which is sheltered from the elements and receives plenty of sun. They’ll struggle if positioned in an exposed location that suffers from frost or extreme cold. By contrast, winter-flowering jasmines should be grown later in the year, in autumn or winter. Some species are fully hardy and can be grown as standalone bushes and shrubs, while others are extremely delicate and normally cannot deal with external conditions in the UK. Jasmine Plant Care Depending on the type of jasmine you opt for, more or less maintenance may be required. Vigorous climbers can exert quite a lot of force on the trellis, fence or other structure holding them, so make sure you use sturdy twine and supports. Watering & Feeding All varieties of jasmine will appreciate regular watering during their first year after planting. Those which are rooted in the ground don’t require irrigation thereafter, except during prolonged periods of heat or drought. However, they will benefit from the application of general-purpose fertilisers and high-potassium feeds. Meanwhile, potted specimens should still be watered regularly during the growing season, but you can ease off as winter sets in. Feed those in containers once a month with a fertiliser that has a high potassium content, such as that used for tomatoes. Overwintering The two most widespread types of jasmine, common jasmine and winter jasmine, are fully hardy and can be left to their own devices during the colder months. On the other hand, the majority of other jasmine cultivars are not hardy and should be brought indoors once night-time temperatures dip below 13°C. Be sure to leave them in a spot which doesn’t suffer from excessive cold, even indoors, or they can wilt and die. Pruning & Training It’s advisable to prune back all types of climbing jasmine vigorously and annually right after they have flowered. This will encourage plenty of new growth and stimulate more blossoms lower down on the vine, where their scent can reach your nostrils more readily. For bushy varieties, it’s also likely that you’ll need to prune them back to keep them in shape. These specimens can often become straggly, unruly and congested, so paring them back to restrict their spread is advisable when required. To prune, simply trace a flowering stem back to a side shoot lower down on the vine and make a clean cut. If stems are becoming overcrowded or damaged, thin them out too to ensure the plant retains its energies for those which will benefit from them most. “I quite often have to tackle jasmine plants that have got out of hand and become a huge tangle of intertwining stems,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “To restore order, cut back all stems to 40-60cm from the ground. This will mean that you will lose flowers for 2-3 years but this is a trade-off with regaining the space that was being occupied by the unruly jasmine. “As it regrows, remove some stems to retain only those that you will train.” Mulching Any jasmine grown in the ground will appreciate mulching once per year in autumn. Use organic matter or garden compost to retain moisture and repel weeds, applying a generous layer around the roots. Additionally, this will also help less hardy varieties stay insulated during winter. Just be sure to leave a gap between the stems and the mulch (around 7.5cm) to avoid root rot. Common Problems The biggest threat to outdoor plants is the cold and wet if dealing with non-hardy varieties. In general, jasmine doesn’t suffer from blight or pests, though you might find aphids feasting on new shoots. Plants grown indoors are more of a target for insects which feed on their sap, such as mealybugs and red spider mites. Check their leaves regularly for signs of an infestation and take the appropriate steps using organic pesticides to rid them of the issue. Propagating Jasmine plants which are grown outdoors should be propagated by taking hardwood cuttings in wintertime. Conversely, those grown indoors should be propagated from softwood or semi-ripe cuttings, which should be separated from the plant in spring or summer. All types of cuttings should be around 15cm long and taken directly below a strong leaf node and should be planted immediately. To do so, prepare their tips by dipping them into a rooting hormone, and then pushing the cutting into a nutrient-rich medium. They will require frequent misting to keep them moist for the first month or so and you should also insulate the planter in a plastic bag. After the roots have become established, you should transplant them to potting soil to allow them to establish themselves more fully. Shortly thereafter, you can relocate them to exterior soil. References 1. Jasminum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328128-2
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Fruit Tree Nurseries Recommend These 15 Award-Winning Apple Tree Varieties
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Chosen Varieties Our Chosen Varieties 1) M. domestica ‘Scrumptious’ 2) M. domestica ‘Discovery’ 3) M. domestica ‘Howgate Wonder’ 4) M. domestica ‘Bramley’s Seedling’ 5) M. domestica ‘Ellison’s Orange’ 6) M. domestica ‘Peasgood’s Nonsuch’ 7) M. domestica ‘Blenheim Orange’ 8) M. domestica ‘Pixie’ 9) M. domestica ‘Ribston Pippin’ 10) M. domestica ‘Rosemary Russet’ 11) M. domestica ‘Elstar’ 12) M. domestica ‘Greensleeves’ 13) M. domestica ‘Worcester Pearmain’ 14) M. domestica ‘Red Windsor’ 15) M. domestica ‘Cox Orange’ References Apples are surely among the most popular fruits in every region around the world and the UK is certainly no exception. All apple cultivars descend from Malus domestica, which belongs to the Rose Family, and there are thousands of cultivars to choose from.1 Expert Chosen Varieties When writing this guide, we consulted two of the top apple tree nurseries in the UK, including Tom Adams, the owner of Tom Adams Fruit Tree Nursery. “Before selecting an apple tree to grow, do some research into which varieties you like and select a rootstock that is right for your space. “Popular varieties from my nursery include ‘Discovery’ because it is always a great start to the apple season and is very resistant to disease. ‘Ashmead’s Kernel’ “‘Ashmead’s Kernel’ is one of the tastiest apples ever, is a great keeper and is also very resistant to disease. “Finally, I love ‘Puckrupp Pippin’. It is a very rare russet from the Welsh and English borderlands with exceptional flavour.” Julie Bellemann from Sheffield Fruit Trees explains the importance of choosing and growing specific varieties. “These days, we’re all aware that the pressures of climate change, biodiversity loss and air pollution mean we need to be planting more trees and getting our food from closer to home. ‘Blenheim Orange’ “Fruit trees are a great response to these challenges and have the added bonus of making our communities more beautiful and social places to be in, leaving a natural legacy for future generations. “A lot of our varieties are local to Sheffield and part of our project is to make sure these do not get lost. “To save specific varieties for the future, such as lone trees growing on riverbanks like the ‘Sheaf Pippin’, a tree that is most likely going to be cut down very soon due to redevelopment, is very important.” Our Chosen Varieties With our experts’ opinions taken into consideration, here is my list of brilliant varieties for you to grow in your garden. They are all perfect for growing here in the UK as they are all recipients of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. As this guide is meant for homeowners and hobbyist gardeners, we have selected a few varieties that are meant for small gardens and those that are self-fertile. “Self-fertile cultivars have the advantage that they can be grown singly rather than needing 1 or more companions to be pollinated,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “However, once you have one, if you are anything like me, the temptation will be to squeeze one more in! “I’ve trained my apples as espaliers and then added step-overs to optimise the space and maximise the enjoyment in my garden.” Although this guide generally lists dessert or eating apples, I also share a few cooking apples, so keep your eyes peeled for those. Apple trees are fully hardy at H6 and all can be grown in most fertile soils with a neutral pH. 1) M. domestica ‘Scrumptious’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘scrumptious’ TYPE: EARLY DESSERT APPLE FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: red SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread ’Scrumptious’ in more ways than one, this tree is a marvellous sight in spring when it bears delicate, pastel pink flowers. These develop into glowing red fruit, ready for picking from late August to early September. The fragrant apples have a rich and honeyed flavour, yet it is a complex taste with hints of various other flavours. It is self-fertile so will not need to be planted near other apple trees. 2) M. domestica ‘Discovery’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘discovery’ TYPE: EATING / CULINARY FLOWERS: white FRUIT: red and green SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 2.5-8m in height, 2.5-8m spread A popular and easy-to-source cultivar, ‘Discovery’ has a height ranging from 2.5-8m and is easy to grow, making it a top choice for small gardens. It bears white flowers followed by blush red and green fruit. The apples are crisp, juicy and tart and are good choices for juicing and making cider – as well as eating! Another self-pollinator, these fruits are ready to harvest from mid-August through September. 3) M. domestica ‘Howgate Wonder’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘howgate wonder’ TYPE: CULINARY / EATING FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: red, green and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Among the largest apple tree varieties, ‘Howgate Wonder’ is as vigorous as its tall stature would suggest and it is a prolific producer of apples. Its fruits are designated for culinary uses, but they are also delicious to eat when plucked straight from the tree. They are gently shaded in yellows, pale greens and light reds and the plant also bears pink-flushed blossoms in spring. October is the prime harvesting month for these self-pollinators. 4) M. domestica ‘Bramley’s Seedling’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘bramley’s seedling’ TYPE: CULINARY FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: red and green SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 2.5-8m in height, 2.5-8m spread For those who would like a culinary variety for a small garden, ‘Bramley’s Seedling’ is a top choice. The rootstock determines the height of the tree and it can grow up to a mere 2.5-8m in height. This popular and readily-available tree produces lovely deep pink flowers and fruit with a strong and very acidic taste. It is the UK’s most-favoured culinary apple and its fruits store especially well.2 Late to crop, its apples are ready to harvest from October to early November. 5) M. domestica ‘Ellison’s Orange’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘ellison’s orange’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: green, yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Growing from 4-8m tall, ‘Ellison’s Orange’ is one of the most reliable croppers, producing a good harvest year after year. It bears proper pink flowers and produces yellowy-green fruit with orange or red flushes. The delectable fruits are aromatic and their unusual flavour is noted for the hints of aniseed. It is ready for picking from September to early October. 6) M. domestica ‘Peasgood’s Nonsuch’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘peasgood’s nonsuch’ TYPE: DESSERT / CULINARY FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: yellow, red and green SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread One of the very special triple plays, ‘Peasgood’s Nonsuch’ is a dessert apple that is just as good as a culinary and cider apple. The tree grows between 4-8m tall and is a reliable cropper. It bears pinkish flowers and yellowish-green apples that are overlaid with red. These huge, juicy apples have an especially sweet yet light flavour. Harvest these delicious fruits in September for the best taste. 7) M. domestica ‘Blenheim Orange’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘blenheim orange’ TYPE: DESSERT / COOKING FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread ‘Blenheim Orange’ is a triploid noted for its vigour. This heirloom cultivar bears pink flowers and greenish apples that develop flushes of orange and red. They are delicately sweet with a caramel-like nutty under-taste. The harvesting season is usually from late September to early October. Although it is a dessert apple, if its fruits are picked early it can also be used as a great cooking apple. 8) M. domestica ‘Pixie’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘pixie’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: green, yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Made in America, ‘Pixie’ is a little harder to find. It reaches a height of 4-8m, but can be kept smaller, and is a heavy cropper. It bears pink flowers and pale yellowish-green fruit with light red blushes. The small apples are wonderfully scented and have a sweet, slightly tangy flavour and are juicy and crisp. They are ready for picking from mid-September to mid-October. 9) M. domestica ‘Ribston Pippin’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘ribston pippin’ TYPE: EATING / COOKING / DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread ‘Ribston Pippin’ is another one for the fruit-lover and is an heirloom variety that even precedes the famous ‘Cox’. It bears bright pink flowers and has apples that are yellowy-green with orange flushes and shadings. They are aromatic and have a rich and robust flavour, combining acidity and sweetness, and are best harvested in October. 10) M. domestica ‘Rosemary Russet’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘rosemary russet’ TYPE: CULINARY FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: orange, green and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread A vigorous tree that reaches a height of up to 8m, the heirloom ‘Rosemary Russet’ reliably produces good crops. Beginning with light pink flowers, it brings forth greenish-yellow fruit with pale red tints. Its fruits are well-known for their strong, sweet-sharp flavour. A top choice for juicing, this dessert apple also lends itself to cooking – a true all-rounder. 11) M. domestica ‘Elstar’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘elstar’ TYPE: EATING / COOKING FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 2-4m in height, 2-4m spread A European import from the 1950s, ‘Elstar’ is a heavy cropper. The tree reaches 4-8m in height with half the spread and bears pink flowers. The fruit is of a yellowy-green hue and is mostly overlaid with red marbling or patches. It is a top-quality eating apple with a texture that is not overly crisp and a taste that is sweet and honeyed with a touch of acidity. It is picked from mid-September to mid-October and is self-fertile. 12) M. domestica ‘Greensleeves’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘greensleeves’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: green and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Staying closer to the lower end of its 4-8m height, ‘Greensleeves’ is a top pick for small gardens or for container cultivation. It is valued for cropping regularly and heavily and has light pink flowers that develop into light yellowy-green apples. The crisp flavour of the fruit is finely balanced between sweetness and acidity and can be altered accordingly depending on when it is picked. 13) M. domestica ‘Worcester Pearmain’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘worcester pearmain’ TYPE: EARLY DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread ‘Worcester Pearmain’ is another reliable and heavy cropper and is a trouble-free variety that is relatively easy to grow. It bears particularly pretty pink flowers while the fruit has a yellowish base with rich red flushes. This apple is renowned for its sweet, strawberry flavour and should be harvested through September. This variety is self-fertile. 14) M. domestica ‘Red Windsor’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘red windsor’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: red SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread A diminutive 1.5-2.5m in height and spread, ‘Red Windsor’ can easily be grown in a postage-stamp-sized garden or in a container. On top of that, it is also partially self-fertile and, for such a little tree, is an amazingly heavy cropper. The pink flowers give way to rosy red fruit that are crisp and juicy with an aromatic sweetness. The fruit is best harvested through early and mid-September. 15) M. domestica ‘Cox Orange’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘cox orange’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: orange, yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread This heirloom cultivar is difficult to grow and is the only variety on this list that has not received an RHS Award of Garden Merit. Therefore, we do not recommend it for first-time growers or hobbyist gardeners. However, the fruit from ‘Cox Orange’ is unparalleled. The aromatic apple is celebrated for its complex and delicious flavour, bringing together undertones and hints of pear, mango and more. This tree bears pink flowers and the apples are yellowy-green with rich orange or red shading and flushes. The fruit is picked from mid-September to mid-October and is self-fertile. References 1. The Apple and the Rose. (2021, May 8). Apples and People. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://applesandpeople.org.uk/stories/the-apple-and-the-rose/ 2. E. (2020, September 20). History Of Bramley Apple Tree. Bramley Apples. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.bramleyapples.co.uk/bramley-apples-history/
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