Growing
Pruning Requirements For Verbena Are Minimal, But Differ For Bedding And Perennial Types
IN THIS GUIDE Pruning Bedding Types Pruning Perennial Types Both bedding and hardy perennial verbenas are perfect choices for a wildlife-friendly garden. All love full sun and well-drained soil and, when planted in the right spot, won’t require a lot of care and can be a good choice for relatively low-maintenance gardens. One thing to think about when growing verbena is whether you need to prune your plants. The good news is that pruning requirements for verbena are minimal and some types may not need to be pruned at all. Below, I share the basic things you need to know about pruning verbena. Pruning Bedding Types Bedding verbenas are usually used as summer plants, which are discarded after their flowering displays in autumn. They are a popular choice for container gardens and summer bedding displays in garden borders. Beyond deadheading, your bedding verbena might not need to be pruned at all. ‘Vepita’ However, these plants can typically tolerate trimming if they get too tall for the space or, with trailing types, if they become too leggy. You can give them a light trim as desired throughout the growing season. You can also snip off unsightly straggling sections or get rid of dead or damaged parts. However, in general, you will not need to do so. Pruning Perennial Types Perennial types are those which can remain in your garden over the winter months and provide further flowering displays over subsequent years. With these types, including Verbena bonariensis and V. hastata, you should cut down old flower stems to as close to the base as possible before any new growth emerges in spring. It is best not to cut back in autumn because, although it may be tempting to tidy up your border, leaving the dead material in place can be better for the plants and for wildlife. The dead foliage can offer a degree of cold protection to the overwintering plants. The seed heads also provide a valuable source of food for birds which eat seeds and the foliage cover provides a winter habitat for a range of other creatures. The other benefit of leaving the seed heads in place is that this allows for the potential for self-seeding. “One of the first plants that I ever grew from seed was Verbena boniarensis and I have had it in my garden ever since,” shares Colin Skelly, an expert Horticulturist. “I have never resown it as it has self-seeded year on year and I edit out those that I do not want, often potting on these seedlings for other projects or for friends and neighbours.” So, even if the original plant does not make it through the winter, you may well have new seedlings popping up.
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These Are Gardener Elizabeth Waddington's Favourite Verbena Types To Grow
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Aloysia triphylla 2) V. bonariensis ‘Buenos Aires’ 3) V. bonariensis ‘Lollipop’ 4) V. ‘Claret’ 5) Glandularia ‘Endurascape Pink Bicolor’ 6) V. hastata 7) V. hastata ‘Rosea’ 8) V. hastata ‘White Spires’ 9) V. ‘Lawrence Johnston’ 10) V. macdougalii ‘Lavender Spires’ 11) V. officinalis 12) V. officinalis var. grandiflora ‘Bampton’ 13) V. ‘Peaches ‘n’ Cream’ 14) V. rigida 15) V. rigida f. lilacina ‘Polaris’ References Verbenas can be wonderful flowering plants to add to a wide range of different gardens and settings. The biggest challenge can be deciding which of the many wonderful different types and varieties to grow. Some types are more tender and are perfect for pots, hanging baskets or summer bedding, whilst others are somewhat hardier and perennial. Within both of these categories, here are some of the different Verbena varieties that you might grow. Keep in mind that all of these varieties grow best in full sun. 1) Aloysia triphylla COMMON NAME(S): lemon verbena HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Though not within the Verbena or the Glandularia genus like the other verbena on this list, lemon verbena is one plant that is well worth considering for home growing. This is a deciduous sub-shrub, which has leaves with a strong lemon scent. It also bears panicles of tiny white or pale lilac blooms in the summer. Although it is only H3 hardy, it can be grown in full sun in a sheltered spot outdoors in milder areas or cultivated indoors or in a greenhouse or polytunnel in colder areas. This could also be a good addition to an edible garden, as the leaves are commonly used as a pot herb or to make tea.1 “Lemon Verbena makes a great plant for making refreshing tea,” shares Horticulturist and Garden Consultant Colin Skelly. “Only half hardy, it is best grown in a pot or container and brought under cover in the winter months. It can be pruned back to manage the size.” 2) V. bonariensis ‘Buenos Aires’ COMMON NAME(S): purple top HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Also known as purple top or tall verbena, this is one of the most popular varieties to grow in UK gardens. It is not only loved by gardeners, but also by bees and other pollinators. It bears branched groups of small purple flowers through summer and often into early autumn. This tall perennial grows up to around 2m in height with a spread of up to 50cm. It likes moist but well-drained soil and is H4 hardy. 3) V. bonariensis ‘Lollipop’ COMMON NAME(S): purple top ‘lollipop’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread If you like the above but don’t have the space to grow it in your garden, this dwarf cultivar is a good one to consider. It grows to only around 60cm tall with a similar spread and also bears groups of small, purple flowers in the summer and into autumn. This option is also H4 hardy. 4) V. ‘Claret’ COMMON NAME(S): vervain ‘claret’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Technically a glandularia but often referred to as verbena, this cultivar has deep, velvety flowers with a reddish-pink hue, set against deep green foliage. It blooms through summer and into the autumn too. Although it is only H3 hardy and won’t overwinter outside in most parts of the UK, it is great for container growing, with a height and spread of less than 50cm. 5) Glandularia ‘Endurascape Pink Bicolor’ COMMON NAME(S): vervain ‘endurascape pink bicolor’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another glandularia, ‘Endurascape Pink Bicolor’ is a semi-evergreen perennial which is often grown as an annual. It grows around 30cm tall with a similar spread. The flowers are small, with deep pink centres and lighter pink edges, and are held in clusters which grow up to around 5cm across. This option is also H3 hardy. 6) V. hastata COMMON NAME(S): american blue vervain HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Also known as American blue vervain, this is a clump-forming perennial which grows to around 1-1.5m tall with a spread of 0.5-1m. It has narrow leaves and spikes of small violet-blue to pinkish-purple flowers which bloom in branched stems resembling a candelabra between early summer and early autumn. This variety is H5 hardy. 7) V. hastata ‘Rosea’ COMMON NAME(S): verbena hastata ‘rosea’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This is a pink flowered cultivar of the above, with a similar height and spread and the same characteristics. It could be a wonderful choice if you want to tie it in with other pink flowers or a pink planting scheme in your garden. 8) V. hastata ‘White Spires’ COMMON NAME(S): vervain ‘white spires’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Likewise, if you want a plant with the characteristics of Verbena hastata but are looking for white flowers, then this is the option to choose. The small white flowers are also long-lasting with this cultivar and bloom throughout the summer and into early autumn. 9) V. ‘Lawrence Johnston’ COMMON NAME(S): vervain ‘lawrence johnston’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This half-hardy perennial grows to around 45cm tall and bears bright red flowers around 1cm in diameter in clusters through the summer and into early autumn. This plant will look great in a well-drained border in full sun but is also a great choice for container growing in loam-based compost. It will overwinter if moved into a greenhouse or another sheltered spot over the coldest months. 10) V. macdougalii ‘Lavender Spires’ COMMON NAME(S): mountain blue vervain ‘lavender spires’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Also known as mountain blue vervain, this is a perennial which grows to around 1.8m in height. It has rough, narrow leaves and bears branching stems which hold small lavender-hued flowers from the middle of summer into autumn. It is pretty drought tolerant and is H5 hardy. 11) V. officinalis COMMON NAME(S): common vervain HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This lovely plant is a native perennial and is also known as common vervain or common verbena. In the late summer, it produces wiry flowering stems which bear numerous tiny flowers with a pale purply-pink colour. This wildflower is well known for attracting wildlife and is a low-maintenance choice for many gardens. 12) V. officinalis var. grandiflora ‘Bampton’ COMMON NAME(S): vervain ‘bampton’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: purple and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This cultivar of the above is also H6 hardy. It is a bushy, upright perennial which bears short spikes of purplish-pink flowers from mid-summer to mid-autumn. This ornamental option still shares many of the benefits of the above in terms of its hardiness and resilience. 13) V. ‘Peaches ‘n’ Cream’ COMMON NAME(S): vervain ‘peaches ‘n’ cream’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: cream, yellow, orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This H3 hardy, bedding verbena performs well over a long period in summer and into autumn. It is perennial but is often grown as an annual like other more tender verbenas. It has neat, oblong-shaped leaves and bears flat heads of light, peachy, orange to pink flowers, which fade over time to a creamy yellow. It is a compact plant, perfect for containers, which grows around 20cm tall and wide. 14) V. rigida COMMON NAME(S): slender vervain HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This tuberous perennial is also often grown as an annual. It grows to around 60cm tall and bears clusters of fragrant flowers in a bright purple hue on branching stems in late summer. This variety is H3 hardy. 15) V. rigida f. lilacina ‘Polaris’ COMMON NAME(S): slender vervain ‘polaris’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This variant has a height and spread of less than 50cm and forms clumps of dense, stiff leaves. In summer and often right through to the first frosts, it bears clusters of pale purple flowers on wiry stems. Of course, there are many other verbena types and cultivars to consider growing in your garden. However, when looking for a verbena variety to grow, the options listed above are a good place to start. References 1. Lemon verbena: Overview, Uses, Side Effects, Precautions, Interactions, Dosing and Reviews. (n.d.). WebMD. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-632/lemon-verbena
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Deadheading Is The Secret Weapon For Prolonging Verbena's Summer Blooming
IN THIS GUIDE Should You Deadhead Verbena? Deadheading To Prolong Flowering Deadheading In Late Summer How To Deadhead Verbena Verbenas are beautiful flowering plants which can be treated as bedding plants or grown as perennials to bloom over a number of years. How much effort it takes to maintain and care for your verbena plants will depend on which variety you have chosen to grow and where you have chosen to grow them. Often, they can be relatively easy and trouble-free plants to grow. Generally speaking, perennial verbena is a lower maintenance option that requires very little care and you will not usually even wish to deadhead them. However, bedding verbenas, especially those growing in containers, will require a little more care. Deadheading can be a good idea if you wish to prolong the summer blooming period. Should You Deadhead Verbena? Whether or not you should deadhead verbena very much depends on which varieties you are growing, where you are growing them, the time of year and your own gardening preferences. Deadheading verbena is typically an approach which aims to prolong the flowering period. It is also used to prevent plants from self-seeding and growing out of control. Some gardeners may prefer to deadhead to keep their garden looking neat. However, deadheading prevents the plants from fulfilling their natural life cycle, which can deprive you of seedlings and can sometimes be a bad decision for wildlife in your garden. When thinking about whether or not deadheading verbena is a good idea for you and your garden, it can be helpful to look at two different periods when deadheading is sometimes recommended. Deadheading To Prolong Flowering The first period when deadheading may be beneficial is in spring or early summer, just after the first flush of blooms has begun to fade. If you do not deadhead at this time, then the plants will focus their attention on producing seeds and may not bear further flowers. So, if you would like to get further blooms over the rest of summer, then it can be a good idea to deadhead or cut back at this time. Many gardeners who have planted bedding verbena will take this approach. Of course, this is not strictly essential, and if you have planted hardier verbena as part of a wilder and more natural, low-maintenance garden, then you might wish to simply let the plants continue with their natural process of development. Deadheading In Late Summer The second period when deadheading is often suggested is towards the end of the blooming period. This is a period when some gardeners may choose to remove unsightly spent flowering stems. Some may also deadhead again at this time to prevent plants from producing seeds. However, in most cases, I do not recommend deadheading after the first deadheading in spring. The main reason for this is that the seeds which develop on the plants are a boon for wildlife – especially seed-eating birds. Allowing the plants to self-seed can also be a great way to obtain new verbena plants. How To Deadhead Verbena If you decide to deadhead verbena in spring, the best approach is simply to wait for the first flush of flowers to fade, then trim back the top quarter of the plants. Simply take a pair of clean gardening shears and lop off the upper section of the plants. This can be the best way to spur new growth and ensure further blooms over a longer period. “For bedding Verbenas I would typically deadhead to stimulate further flowering,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Hardy perennial Verbenas are generally later flowering and I would not deadhead to support both wildlife and self-seeding.” Later, if you really don’t want plants to self-seed, simply snip off the flowering heads, but do not trim as broadly as above.
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Early Spring? Time To Sow Your Chrysanthemum Seeds And Follow These 5 Steps
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Chrysanthemum 1) Sow Your Seeds 2) Provide The Correct Care 3) Transplant Seedlings Into Pots 4) Harden Off In Early May 5) Plant Out In Late May There are tons of chrysanthemum varieties, each boasting bold and captivating colouration. The shape and style of the flower changes between varieties as well, so spend time choosing the right one(s) for you before buying seeds. There may be some minor variation between planting times and growing advice, depending on the variety you choose. I would always recommend checking the instructions on each packet before starting – you can see on the variety I grew for this guide (C. segetum) that it can be sown under glass year-round, but only sown outdoors during limited months of the year. Generally I would advise germinating indoors and then planting out – otherwise, yours might not flower before dying off. Also be aware that chrysanthemum seeds can vary from their parent plant, and it’s hard to guarantee that the flower you grow will be the one you’re expecting. Here’s an overview of the process: Sow indoors in late winter or early spring Keep seedlings in temperate conditions Transplant seedlings into pots Harden off indoor seedlings to ensure sturdiness Transplant outdoors and enjoy the show Let’s take a closer look at how to grow chrysanthemums from seed. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seed compost, seed trays, seeds When To Sow February to March When To Plant September to December When To Sow Chrysanthemum UK conditions lend themselves best to sowing chrysanthemums indoors. Sow in February or March, before the last frost. If you have a heated propagator (ideally with light fittings) you will find it gives you a head start – so that your plant should flower even more profusely come late summer. I started my seeds in early February and was not disappointed with how my plant turned out. 1) Sow Your Seeds Put a layer of seed compost in your seed tray before planting your seeds. You can see these are extremely small seeds – and be difficult to separate and divide into individual cells if using a seed starting tray. Each seed needs to be about 0.5cm beneath the surface of the soil and you can do this by pushing the seed gently beneath the surface of the compost or by scattering them onto the top of the soil. 2) Provide The Correct Care Chrysanthemum seeds will do best when kept between 18-21°C. You can achieve this by keeping them in a room where you’re confident the temperature will stay within this range or by using an aforementioned propagator with a heated base. You should thin out your seedlings when you notice multiple seedlings starting to sprout. I actually used an eyebrow-plucker to navigate the sensitive seedlings, which can be easily disturbed at such a young age. Leave the strongest-looking seedling in place, whilst removing any which are less developed or which have turned leggy in search of light. 3) Transplant Seedlings Into Pots Seeds will sprout within a fortnight of planting and once they’ve sprouted, you need to transplant them into modules or small pots so their roots have space to thrive. After, transplant to larger pots before planting; I moved mine into small compostable pots that were easy to transplant outside when May arrived. 4) Harden Off In Early May To give your chrysanthemum seedlings the best chance of growing when you move them outside, you’ll need to harden them off first. Take your pots or seed tray outside and leave it in a shady spot for a couple of hours. The next day, leave it a little longer and repeat this for 7-10 days before planting out, gradually incorporating sunlight into their routine. Mine were planted out in mid-May and although they took some time to establish themselves in their new environment, I experienced no ill effects given the last frost had already been and gone. 5) Plant Out In Late May Once your chrysanthemums are hardened off you can plant them outside. It’s recommended to do this in late May up to July. Here’s the end result and my Chrysanthemum segetum (Corn Marigold) in flower, with many other buds ready to flower. These were an absolute hit with the local insect population and at one point I must have counted between 15-20 flowers in bloom, from just one plant in a single day. For best results, you should plant your mums into well-drained but moist soil. I fertilised mine every week or two and it certainly seemed to help them flower in an area of the garden that only gets limited sun during mornings and early-afternoon.
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This Is How To Make A Homemade Hanging Basket As A DIY Low-Cost Option
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Preparing The Basket 2) Choosing The Liner 3) Adding The Soil 4) Place Your Plants 5) The Arrangement 6) Plant Care & Maintenance A homemade hanging basket can brighten up porches, walls and other outdoor areas with a touch of unique charm. There are many reasons why hanging baskets are hugely popular across the UK and beyond. For starters, they’re a quick and easy way to add colour and vibrancy at eye level, transforming porches, balconies and exterior walls with their stunning displays. What’s more, their self-contained nature makes them an ideal solution for when space is at a premium, since they don’t even require their own plot of land. This aspect of hanging baskets also means they can be moved around at will to brighten up drab areas of the garden or to reposition them so that they receive more sun exposure. Finally, their elevated position keeps them safe from the prying paws and the attention of cats, rodents, insects and other unwanted pests. It’s no surprise, then, that homeowners up and down the country have a hanging basket or two outside their property. While ready-made baskets can be obtained for a reasonable price from garden centres everywhere, there are a handful of advantages to fashioning your own. Firstly, doing so gives you the freedom to tailor the design of the basket (and the floral arrangement inside it) to your exact preferences. It also gives you greater flexibility in terms of its size, structure and positioning and, best of all, the sense of achievement and connection with something you’ve created with your own two hands is not to be beaten. 1) Preparing The Basket Before you do anything else, it’s necessary to select the type of frame you want to form the basis of your basket. As a general rule, it’s a good idea to choose the largest one you can find and which will be supported by the structure to which you are going to attach it to, since bigger dimensions accommodate more flowers and retain more water. Next, you’ll want to consider materials. There are a variety of options available here, including wood, vine, wicker, willow, ceramic, terracotta, plastic and wire, among others. Many people prefer a natural aesthetic and so opt for one of the first 4 options, but the choice is entirely yours. Whichever material you do go for, just be sure that it will be strong enough to support all the soil, flowers and moisture within it when full. 2) Choosing The Liner The next step is deciding which type of liner you’d like to use to prevent the soil (and the water) from spilling out of it. Again, this will come down to personal preference, with many people preferring to go au naturale once more. Sphagnum moss, hessian fabric and coir (or coconut fibre) are hugely popular choices since they are made from organic materials and don’t look out of place. Plastic and pressed paperboard are less porous than the options mentioned above, meaning they’re more effective at retaining moisture. You will, however, need to drill drainage holes before putting them into position. Meanwhile, some gardeners swear by the qualities of using an old woolly jumper. Not only does this repurpose an item that would otherwise be discarded, but it’s also stretchy, supportive and permeable, all at the same time. Try not to use a material that is going to leave your plants sat in waterlogged conditions that can cause issues such as root rot. 3) Adding The Soil When it comes to choosing the soil, there are options available that have been specifically engineered for hanging baskets. This targeted compost already contains plant food and water-retaining crystals in its composition, making things easier when it comes to maintaining the basket going forward. However, it’s not necessary to get hold of such a niche product if you find it too difficult or expensive to obtain. Instead, multi-purpose compost is a perfectly acceptable alternative. Again, it’s possible to buy both food and crystals separately and mix them into the soil yourself, but it’s not a deal-breaker. “It’s also worth considering setting up a drip irrigation system in conjunction with a timer so the daily task of watering is removed,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “As well as providing cover for holidays, automated watering systems are inexpensive and relatively easy to set up.” Omitting them simply means you’ll have to water and feed the plants inside on a more regular basis. Fill the basket with your chosen soil up until the first set of holes and tamp it down. 4) Place Your Plants Now comes the fun part – picking your floral selection! Some people prefer to keep things uniform with all plants of the same genus, while others prefer a more contrasting display. If you’re in the latter camp, one useful mantra to keep in mind is “thrill, fill and spill”. This is a popular gardening method for use with hanging baskets. Thrill with architecturally interesting plants, fill with taller specimens that look good and command attention, then spill over the edges of the basket with trailing species. Whichever aesthetic you plan to aim for, you should keep in mind the position of your basket. If it’s in full sun, opt for geraniums, petunias and pansies, but if it’s a shadier part of the garden, think hostas, busy Lizzies and begonias. You should also consider the combination of plants you pick, since some are thirstier than others. For example, geraniums don’t need as much watering as fuchsias, so it’s advisable to keep them separate. See our list of plants for hanging baskets for more inspiration. “If planting a summer basket in the spring, garden centres generally sell plants before the risk of frost has passed,” explains Roy. “So, remember to keep plants protected until the middle or end of May, depending on your location in the UK, when frost risk has passed.” 5) The Arrangement Just like the seating plan at a wedding, it’s absolutely crucial you get your arrangement spot on before you put your plants into the soil, otherwise, you could end up with a sparse, lop-sided or clashing display. One tip is to pop the plants into place while still in their pots, giving you the opportunity to view how they’ll appear once the basket is complete. It’s also a good idea to undertake this stage of the process with the basket on an upturned bucket since you can rotate the bucket and view the basket from all angles without damaging the plants. It should go without saying that taller and more eye-catching plants should be situated in the middle of the basket, while trailers and creepers can provide texture, colour and levels of intrigue at the perimeter. Once you’ve settled upon your chosen arrangement, ease the plants out of their pots, then use the latter to make a hole in the soil. This way, the plants will slide right into position, and then it’s simply a case of filling in the gaps with more compost, leaving at least a half-inch gap below the rim of the basket to prevent water overflow. 6) Plant Care & Maintenance Once planted, you’ll want to give the entire basket a good drink to make sure the soil is nice and moist. Thereafter, it’s a good idea to water it at least once a day for the first few weeks to ensure the plants take root, perhaps even more often in the height of summer. Use a watering can rose to sprinkle the soil rather than soak it, since the latter is more likely to result in the water running right through and leaking out the bottom without offering good coverage of the whole basket. If you do find the basket has become totally dried out (with a crusty layer of soil atop it), don’t be tempted to resort to the hose. Instead, take down your basket and soak it in a basin of water to really allow the soil to become saturated. This course of action is more likely to bring back plants who appear done for. If you aren’t using soil which already contains food, fertilise your baskets regularly according to the packet instructions. Deadhead them frequently to encourage repeat blossoms and bring them into a sheltered space for the winter.
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Growing Nasturtium Indoors? They'll Need Bright Conditions And Free-Draining Potting Soil
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Nasturtiums Indoors? Indoor Conditions Growing Nasturtiums Indoors Nasturtiums are extremely easy to grow in a garden. However, if you don’t have any outside space, you might wonder whether nasturtiums can also be grown indoors. Can You Grow Nasturtiums Indoors? Nasturtiums are easier to grow outside in a garden, but when you can provide the right indoor conditions, it is certainly possible for you to grow these useful edible and attractive flowering plants as houseplants inside your home. The best choices for indoor cultivation are smaller, dwarf plants, rather than the much larger and sprawling climbers. So, you should look out for cultivars of Tropaeolus minus. Indoor Conditions Where you place a nasturtium houseplant will be very important, as these plants require specific conditions in order to thrive. Light The most important thing that will determine the success or failure of your efforts to grow nasturtiums indoors is the light levels. When grown in a garden, nasturtiums like as sunny and bright a location as possible and the same is true when you are growing these plants inside your home. Make sure that you place nasturtiums in a bright spot where they receive natural sunlight throughout as much of the day as possible. “Think of nasturtiums as needing the same conditions as herbs; bright, warm and free-draining,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “A bright windowsill or conservatory should be fine as long as they don’t dry out. They could also be succession sown like herbs for use in salads.” A conservatory, if you have one, will be ideal, but a sunny room with plenty of light elsewhere in your home could also work. Your nasturtiums should be placed somewhere where they get at least 6 hours of sun per day. If you do not have a suitable windowsill, then you might need to use grow lights to grow these plants successfully indoors. Temperature Temperature is also important. When sowing the seeds for nasturtiums, the temperatures should be kept above 13°C. Luckily, this is a typically easy temperature to achieve indoors in most homes. However, it is important to place nasturtiums somewhere where they will not be exposed to excessively high temperatures, so don’t position them too close to a radiator or another heat source. High temperatures inside a home can be especially problematic if you want to eat the leaves and flowers of your plants. One of the great things about growing nasturtiums is the edible yields that you can obtain from these plants, but high temperatures can cause heat stress in the plants and this can affect their taste, making them less palatable. Humidity Another concern when growing nasturtiums indoors is humidity. Nasturtiums prefer moderate humidity, so it is important to make sure that the location where the nasturtiums are growing does not have too high or too low humidity levels. Choosing A Container Nasturtiums like free-draining conditions and cannot tolerate waterlogged soil, so it is important to make sure that any container you choose has good drainage at the base. You might grow nasturtiums in pots, window boxes or hanging containers of some kind. Choosing A Growing Medium Fill whichever container or containers you choose with a peat-free multipurpose growing medium with around one-third grit or gravel added to improve drainage. Growing Nasturtiums Indoors Once you know where you will grow nasturtiums in your home, it is time to think about the process of actually growing your plants. It is very easy to grow nasturtiums from seed and while you can also simply purchase young plants, growing from seed is a good idea. Sowing Nasturtiums are usually sown indoors between March and May in the UK. This is the same whether you are planning to transplant seedlings to the garden or pot them up into larger containers and continue to keep them indoors throughout the summer months. Sow individual seeds into small 9cm wide pots. After a couple of weeks, the seeds should have germinated successfully and you should see them growing strong. Once the plants’ roots mostly fill the pots, they can be potted up into larger containers, either on their own or alongside other plants. Watering Caring for nasturtiums grown indoors in a suitable spot should be relatively easy. The most important thing will be ensuring that you water them sufficiently, but do not overwater. Water when a probing finger can detect that the first couple of centimetres of the growing medium is dry, but make sure excess water can always drain away freely.
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Potted Nasturtiums: 'Smaller Cultivars Make An Ideal Choice For A Container'
IN THIS GUIDE Potted Nasturtium Varieties Best Pots For Tropaeolum Container Compost Potting Up Nasturtium Container Tropaeolum Care Nasturtiums are incredibly easy and attractive annual flowers to grow. They are versatile plants that can be grown in a wide range of locations. Not only do the flowers provide long-lasting, cheerful pops of colour, but these plants also have edible leaves, flower buds, flowers and seeds, and are great for attracting pollinators and aiding with pest control in an organic garden. “Smaller nasturtium cultivars make an ideal choice for a container and this is how I tend to grow them, as they get far too big grown in my garden soil,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I’m particularly partial to their colourful flowers in salads.” However, if you are short on space, you might wonder whether you can grow nasturtiums in containers, and, if so, how to do so successfully. Potted Nasturtium Varieties Nasturtiums are an ideal choice for container growing. They can be a great choice for beautiful summer displays, trailing down and creating an attractively abundant effect. There are a number of different nasturtiums for you to choose from when selecting options to grow in containers. Both varieties of Tropaeolum minus and Tropaeolum majus are great for container growing. The former produces smaller, busy plants, while the latter produces climbers and trailing plants. Best Pots For Tropaeolum There are almost endless options when it comes to choosing a container for nasturtiums, though which container you should choose will depend on the details of your own particular garden and on which type and variety of nasturtium you are planning to grow. Some grow much larger and much more vigorously than others. Nasturtiums might be grown in: Simple plant pots or other reclaimed containers. Window boxes. Larger pots or planters as part of mixed container displays. The planting pockets of vertical gardens. Hanging baskets or other hanging containers. One important thing to think about is that whichever type of container you choose, these are plants that require good drainage. Though the soil in containers should remain consistently moist through the growing season, excess water should always be able to drain away freely from the base of your containers. When choosing a container, be sure to think about how large you can expect the nasturtium that you have chosen to eventually grow. Container Compost Since nasturtiums require free-draining conditions, it is a good idea to mix horticultural grit or gravel with a multipurpose peat-free potting mix or homemade equivalent in order to create your growing medium. A mix of 1/3 grit, 1/3 homemade compost and 1/3 leaf mould, loam or loamy soil can work perfectly for growing these plants. You can also simply add 1 part grit to 2 parts of a good quality peat-free potting mix that you have purchased. Potting Up Nasturtium Nasturtiums that you have purchased or those that you have grown from seed in spring should be planted into their summer containers sometime between May and August. The flowers bloom between May and October, potentially right up until the first frosts. When planting, make sure that the nasturtiums crown of leaves sits just above the surface of the soil. Firm them into place and water them in well. How Many Plants Per Pot? Nasturtiums can be grown in containers on their own but it is worthwhile thinking about how they can be combined with other summer and autumn flowering plants to create beautiful mixed container displays. How much space these plants will require will very much depend on which cultivar or cultivars you have chosen. Remember, there are smaller dwarf varieties and larger climbers to choose from. Many other flowers of the late summer and autumn make wonderful companions for nasturtiums in a mixed container display. For an edible garden, you might also create mixed displays using nasturtiums and other edible salad crops. Container Tropaeolum Care Nasturtiums are very easy to grow and care for, even when growing them in containers, which will involve a little more effort than growing them in the ground. Light & Location The first thing to think about when it comes to caring for nasturtiums in containers is where the containers should be placed. Remember that these are plants that thrive in a position in full sun. In order to make the most of the benefits of growing these wonderful plants, it is also a good idea to consider placing containers so that the nasturtiums bring benefits to other edible crops growing in containers or in beds nearby. The nasturtiums can act as a trap crop for pests and draw in a range of beneficial insects for pollination and pest control. Watering While nasturtiums growing in the ground outside rarely require watering, those growing in containers should be watered regularly throughout the growing season to keep the growing medium consistently moist. You should not feed nasturtiums. They do not need it and fertilisation can potentially encourage foliage growth at the expense of flowers. Deadheading Though not essential, deadheading your nasturtiums can prolong the blooming period and ensure the production of further flowers. Remember, however, that you can harvest flowers before they fade, as these, along with the peppery leaves, make a great addition to your salad bowl. Once these annual plants die back at the end of the growing season, you can simply remove them from the containers and add the plant material to your compost heap.
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Sowing Nasturtiums In 5 Steps - These Big Seeds Have Lots Of Stored Energy For Germination
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose Your Variety 2) Choose A Growing Area 3) Prepare The Growing Area 4) Sow Nasturtium Seeds 5) Harden Off & Plant Out Nasturtiums, Tropaeolum majus, are flowering annuals that are wonderful for beginners and experienced gardeners alike. They are extremely easy to grow and can bring a range of benefits to your garden when you choose to do so. A wonderful companion plant for your vegetable garden, they are also an attractive ornamental and a food crop in their own right, offering a number of edible yields. To grow nasturtiums from seed: Source your seeds. Decide where to sow and grow your nasturtiums. Prepare your growing areas. Sow seeds indoors in early spring or outdoors between March and June. Plant out indoor sown nasturtiums in May or June. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed trays, pots, growing medium When To Sow March to June When To Plant Out May to June 1) Choose Your Variety If you would like to grow nasturtiums from seed, you will have to choose which nasturtiums you want to grow and find the seeds for that variety. Nasturtium seeds are readily available online or from garden centres. You can see that I opted for ‘Firebird’ with seeds from Thompson & Morgan. If you already grow nasturtiums in your garden, it is also very easy to gather and store the seeds from your existing plants for sowing. “I grew nasturtiums in my garden for the first time about 15 years ago,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “They seed very freely and ever since nasturtium seedlings germinate in my garden every spring, so (unless I wanted to grow a specific cultivar) I can just pot on the seedlings or transplant them to where I want them to grow. “Beware of this habit if you only have a small space.” 2) Choose A Growing Area Once you have your seeds, you will need to determine where you will sow your seeds, as this will determine the details of the process. Nasturtiums are typically sown between March and June, either where they are to flower, in small pots undercover or indoors. You can see these are big seeds with a lot of stored energy and will germinate very quickly if provided with the right conditions. Flowers can bloom right up until the first frosts when you sow later within this period. Of course, you should also consider where the nasturtiums will grow, even when sowing indoors. These plants prefer a sunny spot with relatively free-draining soil. Nasturtiums are suited for use in ornamental beds or borders, but they are also particularly beneficial as companion plants in your vegetable growing areas and can also potentially create great ground cover around the sunny edges of a fruit tree guild or forest garden. They can also be grown in containers. These plants are not only cheerful, colourful and attractive but can also draw in bees and other pollinators, serve as a useful trap crop for pests and provide a number of edible yields. 3) Prepare The Growing Area Once you have decided where to sow and grow your nasturtiums, you should make sure that your growing area is ready. Ensure that the area is raked to a fine tilth for direct sowing, and make drills to sow the seeds in rows or holes for them around the edges of other plantings. Make sure that the area is weed free and water the area before you sow the seeds so that watering does not wash the seeds away. If sowing indoors, prepare 9cm plant pots or other reclaimed or recycled containers filled with a peat-free, seed-starting potting mix or homemade equivalent. 4) Sow Nasturtium Seeds Sow seeds into the drills or holes in the prepared garden area if you are sowing directly into the ground. The seeds should be at a depth of around 1-1.5cm and no less than around 10cm apart. Once the seedlings emerge after a couple of weeks, they can then be thinned to around 30cm apart. If you are sowing in pots, sow one seed into each 9cm wide container. Again, sow these to around 1-1.5cm. Place the pots on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse. 5) Harden Off & Plant Out Indoor-sown nasturtiums can be hardened off (the process of gradually adjusting plants to growing outside) and planted out into the garden in late spring or early summer. You can plant them in the ground, in raised beds or in containers. Make holes the same size as the pots that the nasturtium seedlings were growing in and make sure that the crown of leaves of each plant sits at ground level. Water your plants in well. When planting into containers, place them in a mix of 2 parts multipurpose compost to 1 part grit or gravel to improve the drainage. These plants are very easy to care for and you should derive many benefits from growing them where you live.
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Cutting Back Foxgloves Is Only Required To Tidy-Up And Prevent Them Self-Seeding
IN THIS GUIDE Cutting Back To Remove Seeds Pruning Dead Material In Spring Foxgloves are incredibly easy and low-maintenance flowers to grow and, once established in a suitable location, they are plants that can largely be left to their own devices. Cutting back foxgloves is not really essential at all. I often simply leave my foxgloves to their own devices as they self-seed and pop up each year in my forest garden. However, I will sometimes give the plants a tidy-up in the early spring. When it comes to cutting back foxgloves, whether or not you cut back at all and when you do so will depend upon your aims in the garden. You might deadhead or cut back foxgloves when flowers fade to prevent them from going to seed, or simply prune out dead or damaged material after the winter, in early spring. Cutting Back To Remove Seeds In order to understand the reasoning behind deadheading or cutting back when flowers fade, we need to understand the lifecycle of biennial plants. Biennial foxgloves will typically establish themselves in their first year and then flower in their second. After flowering, they will set seeds and then die. Sometimes, biennial flowers that are not allowed to set seed because faded flowering stems are removed will flower again the following year. However they will not always do so, so it is best to have backup plants in case they don’t. Of course, you will only ever consider removing the faded flowering stalks once flowers are done if you don’t want to collect seeds or allow the plants to self-seed in your garden. In many cases, you will want your foxgloves to set seed so that you can enjoy more blooms in the following years. I do not cut back flowering heads in my forest garden, as I want the plants to self-seed. The dead flowering stalks over winter are also of benefit to winter wildlife and I often see ladybirds and other insects overwintering within them. This is another reason why I don’t cut back these plants before the winter. Pruning Dead Material In Spring The second option is to let the plants continue their natural life cycles and tidy up the plants in the early spring. Where necessary, in early spring, I remove any yellowing leaves on foxgloves, prune out any winter-damaged material and cut the old seed-head stems off at the base where these have persisted through the winter. This ensures that new growth in spring on and around foxgloves can get the light and airflow they need and also keeps the garden looking good as we enter into the next growing season.
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