Growing
Astrantia Specialist Shares How To Lift And Divide Clumps To Keep Your Plant Healthy
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Water Well Before Lifting 2) Lift The Plant 3) Shake Off Excess Soil 4) Divide Into Sections 5) Replant The Divisions Astrantia is a charming perennial which looks great in many different garden schemes. It complements a wide range of companions and is tolerant of a wide range of conditions, though it will absolutely thrive in moist and fertile soil in dappled shade. Once you have Astrantia in your garden, you will no doubt find it an easy and straightforward plant to grow and one that requires little care and attention. One job that is important is keeping an eye on mature plants, and, usually after 3-4 years or so, taking steps to ensure their ongoing health and vitality by lifting and dividing your plant. “Astrantias are clump-forming, so if the clump gets too large, you will have to dig it up and split it,” says Caroline Samuel, from Letham Plants. Dividing Astrantia will keep it healthy by helping to make sure it does not outgrow its present location. “Not all astrantias set viable seed and varieties such as ‘Roma’ are sterile, so the seed will never germinate,” Caroline adds. “Sterile varieties need to be divided to obtain more plants.” The process involved in lifting and dividing your Astrantia is simple: If it has not rained recently, water the existing plant before lifting. Insert a spade or fork beneath the root system and gently lift the plant from the soil. Shake off excess soil from the Astrantia roots. Divide the Astrantia into several sections by cutting down with a spade through the roots. Replant each of the divisions. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Spade or garden fork When To Divide Spring 1) Water Well Before Lifting Making sure that the Astrantia has received sufficient water before lifting will help to free the roots from the soil and will also reduce the stress associated with the process. If it has not rained recently, you should water well a day or so before undertaking the division. 2) Lift The Plant Next, ease a spade or fork in under the existing plant, taking care not to damage the existing root system. Gently lift the plant up and out of the soil. 3) Shake Off Excess Soil Shake the plant gently and remove any large clumps of soil so that you can see the roots clearly. Check the roots to make sure that there are not any signs of damage or disease. 4) Divide Into Sections Once you are satisfied that there are not any issues with the roots, simply pull the plant apart into sections. Each section should have a healthy portion of roots and crown growth. Usually, Astrantia is fairly easy to pull apart into divisions by hand. Not Astrantia roots – but hopefully this helps to illustrate the process However, where thicker roots are tangled or difficult to divide, you can slice down through the root system with a sharp spade. You can create a few new plants to replant in your garden or a number of smaller divisions which can be potted up and grown on before you plant them out in their final locations. 5) Replant The Divisions Whether you have larger divisions to plant out in the garden or are planting smaller divisions into pots to grow on, it is important to get the plant sections back into the soil or a suitable growing medium as soon as possible. The quicker and more streamlined the process, there’s less chance of the plants experiencing transplantation shock. “The fibrous roots of Astrantia dry out quickly in the open air and I’ve found this impedes the divisions from growing away quickly,” shares Roy Nicol, who has received the Master of Horticulture status from the Royal Horticultural Society. “If plants cannot be replanted immediately, they can be put in a tub of water for an hour or two. “This will ensure the roots are hydrated and will help the new plants to grow on.” As long as you take care to choose the right location to grow your divisions, these new plants should establish themselves relatively quickly. Just make sure that you keep them well watered, especially during drier periods over their first growing season. Following these simple steps is an easy and straightforward way to obtain new Astrantia plants for your garden or perhaps to even give away to family or friends. As mentioned above, the process of division will also help keep mature Astrantia plants in your garden healthy and happy by preventing problems, such as powdery mildew that is associated with overcrowding, in your beds or borders.
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'Astrantia Can Be Cut Back After Their First Flush Of Flowers' Says Silver-Gilt Award Winner
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Astrantia 1) Deadhead In Summer 2) Cut Back Hard In March Astrantias are a great choice for a perennial border, thriving in moist, dappled shade. They are extremely easy plants to grow and care for, making them a great choice for reasonably low-maintenance gardens. As long as Astrantia are grown in a suitable location, they will really require very little care. Just make sure that you meet the plant’s water needs and choose the appropriate times to deadhead and prune your plants. To keep Astrantia healthy and looking its best, there are two main times to cut back: Cut back flowering stems after flowering in summer to encourage a second flush of flowers. Cut back hard in autumn or in March before new growth emerges. Find out more about these processes of deadheading and cutting back Astrantia below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Prune March or July When To Prune Astrantia To encourage more blooms to form, it is a good idea to cut back the flowering stems to the base as soon as the first flowers begin to fade in around early July. This encourages new flowering growth which prolongs the flowering period. You can also cut back Astrantias hard to remove all the dead seed-head stems and foliage. This is a job that you can undertake in autumn to keep things looking neat, however, I’d actually recommend that you hold off on this job until March. Leaving herbaceous perennials in place over winter gives food and shelter for wildlife, so this is the best choice for a wildlife-friendly garden. Cutting back in March, however, ensures that there is plenty of space, air and light for new growth which will emerge in the spring. 1) Deadhead In Summer Astrantias will usually begin to bloom in June. Deadheading will help to prevent the plant from creating seeds and instead prolong the flowering period by encouraging further flower formation. “Astrantia can be cut back after their first flush of flowers, as most varieties will then re-flower the same year,” explains Caroline Samuel from Letham Plants. As the first flush of flowers begin to fade and before they go to seed, simply take a clean, sharp pair of secateurs or gardening shears and cut off the flowering stems at the base. “Cut back your Astrantia, leaving about 3cm on the plant,” says Caroline. “The foliage can also be cut back if looking a bit messy.” Remember, however, that you might also harvest the flowers for floral displays inside your home. Cutting the flowering heads off before they fade, you can hang them upside down in a dry and warm location to dry. Astrantia keeps well once fully dried and can be used to create attractive displays. “You can then cut them back again in October or leave them until the spring,” Caroline adds. “Some varieties are prolific self-seeders, so to avoid this, cut the flower heads off before the seeds fall.” 2) Cut Back Hard In March Cutting back dead stems and foliage of Astrantia hard in March will ensure good conditions for new growth in spring. Simply take secateurs or gardening shears and cut off all the old, dead growth at the base. This material can then be added to your composting system so that the nutrients it contains can be returned to the system. After cutting back Astrantia, this is a good time to add a mulch of organic matter around your plants. An organic mulch helps to provide fertility and moisture retention, thereby reducing the risk of powdery mildew infection which is encouraged by dryness at the roots of plants. Mulching annually after pruning in early spring should help keep your Astrantia growing strong.
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Mollie Brown Shares 25 Plants With Heart-Shaped Leaves To Help Spread The Love
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Heart-Shaped Hoya 2) Dutchman’s Pipe 3) Heart-Leaved Philodendron 4) Foxglove Tree 5) Creeping Oxalis 6) Paddy’s Pride 7) Nephthytis 8) Betel Pepper 9) Taro 10) Redbud ‘Hearts Of Gold’ 11) Morning Glory ‘Grandpa Otts’ 12) Persian Cyclamen 13) Golden Pothos 14) Katsura Tree 15) Swiss Cheese Plant 16) Common Lime 17) Siberian Bugloss ‘Jack Frost’ 18) Heart Fern 19) Indian Bean Tree 20) Plantain Lily ‘Heartsong’ 21) Hearts-On-A-String 22) Hedge Bindweed 23) Common Morning Glory 24) Purple Bell Vine 25) Flamingo Flower References Plants with heart-shaped leaves can not only help spread the love, but can look beautiful as potted houseplants in your home or growing in your garden borders. If you desire heart-shaped foliage then this guide is just for you – we share twenty-five plants that each have unique leaves that will each add a touch of romance to your home or garden. 1) Heart-Shaped Hoya BOTANICAL NAME: Hoya kerrii HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: houseplant FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A perfect plant to give as a gift on Valentine’s day, the heart-shaped hoya is aptly named after its waxy green leaves that are shaped like hearts.1 Grown as a houseplant here in the UK, this unfussy plant has evergreen leaves that will fill your home with love all year round. Why not grow one of these plants in your own home so you can later propagate it and give the new plants away to all of your loved ones? 2) Dutchman’s Pipe BOTANICAL NAME: Aristolochia macrophylla HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: climber FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer An unusual and different plant, Aristolochia macrophylla, also known as the Dutchman’s pipe, is a hardy climber that produces green, heart-shaped leaves that can grow up to 30cm long. With unexpected mottled flowers that appear during the summer, this deciduous climber would make a great addition to any garden, provided you have the space to accommodate its height. I’d recommend growing this shrub against a wall or trellis where it can be allowed to attach itself and grow up the structure freely. 3) Heart-Leaved Philodendron BOTANICAL NAME: Philodendron scandens HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: shrub / climber / houseplant FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A popular houseplant, the heart-leaf philodendron is an evergreen shrub that can grow up to 4m in height. It is mostly grown for its large, heart-shaped leaves that are mainly green in colour but can also be variegated or spotted with white and yellow. Philodendrons are very easy to care for and will only need to be watered when the soil is left to completely dry out. 4) Foxglove Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Paulownia tomentosa HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: tree FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Paulownia tomentosa is a medium-sized tree that is known for its tubular purple flowers that grow in clusters during spring. However, the Foxglove Tree also produces large, heart-shaped leaves that cover the branches, usually only dying back for 3 months in winter. Although it can grow up to 12m in height, this tree can be pruned regularly and eventually will only grow to the trained height. “This is achieved by stooling, which is when all growth is pruned back to the main trunk in the early spring, after which the leaves produced are enormous,” shares Horticultural Consultant Roy Nicol. So, if you have the time and patience to reap the benefits of this deciduous plant, it is definitely worth considering. 5) Creeping Oxalis BOTANICAL NAME: Oxalis corniculata HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer This small perennial is often used as a ground cover plant and bears 3-leaved, clover-like panicles that resemble hearts. Creeping oxalis also bears daisy-like yellow flowers that flower from early spring, providing a burst of colour if you choose to plant this perennial. However, keep in mind that this plant does have a spreading habit and can quite quickly become a weed that you might not be able to get rid of if you don’t regularly prune it. 6) Paddy’s Pride BOTANICAL NAME: Hedera colchica ‘Sulphur Heart’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: shrub / climber FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn A stunning evergreen shrub, paddy’s pride has green and yellow variegation on its heart-shaped leaves that can grow up to 20cm long. The shrub itself has a climbing habit and can reach up to 8m tall, so is best grown against a trellis or wall at the back of a border or bed. As a hardy evergreen it needs very little care and can offer colour even in the depths of winter. 7) Nephthytis BOTANICAL NAME: Syngonium podophyllum HARDINESS RATING: H1A PLANT TYPE: houseplant / shrub / climber FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Another climber when grown in its native environment, Nephthytis is a small shrub that produces large heart-shaped leaves that are usually green and tinged with silver. Similar in appearance to a philodendron, this plant (which is grown as a houseplant in UK conditions) should be grown in a loam-based potting medium and should be placed in a spot that is sheltered from direct sunlight. 8) Betel Pepper BOTANICAL NAME: Piper betle HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial / houseplant FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Not to be mistaken with Betel leaf, which is a popular herb used in Thai and Indian cuisines, Betel Pepper is a perennial that is typically grown as a houseplant here in the UK. With aromatic, heart-shaped leaves, this evergreen plant is a great choice for adding green, heart-shaped warmth to your bright indoor spaces. Although betel pepper is quite difficult to get your hands on, it is a relatively easy plant to grow and is suitable for beginners who are just getting used to caring for houseplants. 9) Taro BOTANICAL NAME: Colocasia esculenta HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: perennial / houseplant FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Perhaps producing the largest leaves on this list, Taro is a frost-tender evergreen that bears large heart-shaped leaves all year round. Also grown as a houseplant here in the UK, this leafy perennial can also be harvested and the edible corm can be used in a range of dishes.2 However, if it’s just ornamental value you’re after, Taro is also really easy to care for when grown indoors and can grow well in dark, humid spaces in your home – like a kitchen or bathroom. 10) Redbud ‘Hearts Of Gold’ BOTANICAL NAME: Cercis canadensis ‘Hearts of Gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: tree FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Cercis canadensis ‘Hearts Of Gold’ is a stunning redbud variety that produces autumnal golden-green leaves that are perfectly heart-shaped. This medium-sized tree also produces pink flowering clusters with petals (that also look like hearts!) whilst the leaves die back during the colder months of the year – providing some interest even when the main attraction has come and gone. I’d recommend planting this deciduous tree as a focal-point in a large garden. 11) Morning Glory ‘Grandpa Otts’ BOTANICAL NAME: Ipomoea purpurea ‘Grandpa Otts’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: shrub / climber / annual FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn A frost-tender shrub, usually grown as an annual, Morning Glory ‘Grandpa Otts’ is grown as an annual and looks great when grown against some kind of support, like a trellis or against a wall. With large funnel-shaped blooms that come in shades of purple, blue and pink and heart-shaped green leaves, this deciduous climber will make a unique addition to your garden, especially during the summer and autumn months. 12) Persian Cyclamen BOTANICAL NAME: Cyclamen persicum HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: houseplant FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring The Persian Cyclamen is another frost-tender plant that is usually grown indoors, producing pink and white flowers on upright stems in the winter and spring. The rounded green leaves are often variegated and can be tinged with silver before going dormant over the summer months. I love this plant, as, unlike many deciduous houseplants, cyclamen often lose their foliage during the summer season, but will reawaken in the colder months offering colour in your home when you most need it. 13) Golden Pothos BOTANICAL NAME: Epipremnum aureum HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: shrub / climber / houseplant FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer With variegated, heart-shaped leaves in shades of cream, yellow and green, golden pothos, also known as Devil’s Ivy, is an evergreen houseplant that can cope with a dark and humid location in the home. An easy plant to grow that will thrive in most UK homes, make sure you have the time to prune and divide this shrub, as golden pothos can grow up to 8m in height. I grow this plant on a shelf in my dining room and its beautiful cascading foliage spill down to offer a beautiful, contemporary look. 14) Katsura Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Cercidiphyllum japonicum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: tree FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring A large tree, Cercidiphyllum japonicum produces colourful heart-shaped leaves that come in shades of yellow, pink and orange depending on the time of the year. This low-maintenance tree looks great in gardens that have the space to grow it and will do best when planted in acidic soil in a sheltered position. 15) Swiss Cheese Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Monstera deliciosa HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: houseplant / shrub FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Best grown in a sheltered place out of direct sunlight, the swiss cheese plant is a popular UK houseplant that is known for its pinnatisect, abnormally-formed leaves that can grow up to a huge 90cm long. This is a great shrub to grow in a bright, airy room and will add a touch of heart-shaped greenery that is bound to delight both you and your guests. 16) Common Lime BOTANICAL NAME: Tilia × europaea HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: tree FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer One of the larger trees on this list, Tilia × europaea is a summer flowering plant that produces green, heart-shaped leaves that turn yellow in the autumn months before falling from the tree’s branches over the winter dormancy period. This plant is beloved by pollinators and will make a great choice for a wildlife-friendly garden if you have the space to grow it. Make sure Common Lime gets plenty of sun, as it will grow best in a site that receives several hours of sunlight a day. 17) Siberian Bugloss ‘Jack Frost’ BOTANICAL NAME: Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring This Siberian bugloss variety is a true delight for foliage lovers, as the stunning heart-shaped silver and green leaves are truly a sight to behold. ‘Jack Frost’ also produces tiny, blue daisy-like flowers in the spring which shoot up from tall stems amongst the large leaves. As a plant that thrives in shade, you can use Siberian bugloss as a ground cover plant or grow it underneath larger plants. “I find this to be a reliable plant for the shade which steadily spreads by creeping rhizomes as well as self-seeding, although seedlings often lose the variegated foliage and revert to green,” adds Roy. “Having said that, with a little selective management, it develops into attractive ground cover.” 18) Heart Fern BOTANICAL NAME: Hemionitis arifolia HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: fern FOLIAGE: evergreen This frost-tender fern is most commonly grown as a houseplant and produces slender leaves that look great in any indoor display. Grow Hemionitis arifolia in a loam-based medium with an acidic pH for the best results, and make sure it is out of direct sunlight as too much sun can scorch the surface of its leaves. 19) Indian Bean Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Catalpa bignonioides HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: tree FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer The Indian Bean Tree can grow over 12m in height and spread and might be too big to plant in many gardens, despite its lovely shaped leaves and thin, dangling fruit. However, if you do have the space, this summer flowering tree is truly a delight to grow and will look brilliant as a centrepiece to larger, more stylised garden displays. 20) Plantain Lily ‘Heartsong’ BOTANICAL NAME: Hosta ‘Heartsong’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A shade-loving perennial, Hosta ‘Heartsong’ produces stunning green, heart-like leaves that often have a white rim around the edge of the leaf. This big-leaved plant will look great in your garden beds when planted underneath trees or larger shrubs that can provide the shade it needs to thrive. In summer, this hosta also bears purple flowers which is another major benefit of this large-leaved plant. “To grow Hostas, a plan is needed to prevent slugs & snails from making unsightly holes in the foliage,” says Roy. “Garlic spray at regular intervals is recommended by Hosta growers, but other organic methods such as nematodes or sheep wool can deter them.” 21) Hearts-On-A-String BOTANICAL NAME: Ceropegia woodii HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: succulent / houseplant / perennial FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Ceropegia woodii, more commonly referred to as ‘Hearts-on-a-String’, is a hanging succulent with a hardiness rating of H1C that is grown as a houseplant here in the UK. Hearts-on-a-String has trailing stems that can grow as long as 1m; which bear tiny rounded leaves that are purple, silver and green in colour. A great choice for a hanging basket or for placing on a high shelf where it can cascade downwards – grow this evergreen perennial in a sheltered spot in your home, out of direct sunlight. 22) Hedge Bindweed BOTANICAL NAME: Calystegia sepium HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: climber / shrub FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Perhaps one plant with heart-shaped leaves that you don’t want to see is bindweed. This shrub produces white, trumpet-shaped flowers that can spread prolifically and suffocate other plants with its twisting vines.3 I would not recommend planting this weed in your garden, as the deep, brittle roots are extremely difficult to remove, but if you really want to grow this plant, you can pot it into its own individual container or even place it in a hanging basket display near your home. 23) Common Morning Glory BOTANICAL NAME: Ipomoea purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: annual / perennial FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn The heart-shaped leaves come second to the trumpet-shaped blooms of Ipomoea purpurea that last from the start of summer well into the autumn months. Another Morning Glory variety, this frost-tender plant is often grown as an annual in the UK and would look delightful if grown against a wall or trellis in a traditional cottage garden. 24) Purple Bell Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Rhodochiton atrosanguineus HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: climber / shrub / houseplant FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Rhodochiton atrosanguineus, also known as the ‘Purple Bell Vine’, is also a frost-tender climber that flaunts heart-shaped foliage from spring until autumn. Reaching up to 2.5m in height, the purple bell vine thrives in full sun and is easy to care for once established. This tender shrub can either be grown outside as an annual or grown as a houseplant where it will produce purple tubular blooms year after year. 25) Flamingo Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Anthurium andraeanum HARDINESS RATING: H1A PLANT TYPE: houseplant / perennial FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): year-round One of my favourite houseplants, the flamingo flower not only produces large glossy green leaves in the shape of hearts all year round, but its red or yellow flowers also last through all the seasons. Anthurium andraeanum is easy to care for and will brighten any room in your home, so you can grow this evergreen perennial to spread the love from spring to winter! References 1. Our Top 5 Most Romantic Houseplants to Give as Gifts. (2020, January 30). Wally Grow. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://wallygrow.com/blogs/feature/romantic-plants 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998j, July 20). Taro | Description, Plant, Root, Edible, Poisonous, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/taro-plant 3. Hedge bindweed. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/wildflowers/hedge-bindweed
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Potting Up Iris Rhizomes - These Plants Grow Really Well In Containers With The Right Care
IN THIS GUIDE Should You Grow Irises In Pots? Choosing Suitable Containers Potting Up Iris Rhizomes Potted Iris Care Irises are a varied group of flowering plants which are suited to growing in a wide range of different situations, from borders to garden ponds. However, if you are considering growing irises, you might be wondering about container growing. Should You Grow Irises In Pots? “Many of us have small gardens and container growing is a prerequisite,” explains Simon Dodsworth, owner of The English Iris Company. “Tall, bearded irises grow really well in pots as long as you provide the correct care.” As Simon says, almost all irises can be grown in containers as long as they are given the right environment and cared for correctly. However, the irises best suited to container growing are those which like full sun and free draining conditions: bulb irises and border irises. Bulb irises are the most common choice for container growing, but shorter types of border irises can also often work very well in pots. Taller species can also be grown in containers, but will usually require some support. Choosing Suitable Containers When choosing a container for irises, one key consideration will be which specific iris you plan to grow, as they can vary significantly in size. Iris reticulata Smaller bulb irises, like Iris reticulata, will grow to around 15cm tall and need to be spaced just 5cm or so apart. However, some border irises can grow up to 1m in height and require a lot more space. When choosing a container for irises, you will not only need to consider the size of the plant and its specific requirements, but also its age. “Choose a pot that is wide and shallow, rather than one which is narrow and deep,” says Simon. “Depending on how many irises you want to grow, I would recommend starting with one that is 38-44cm across and 20-26cm deep. This will allow you to plant at least five irises. “You could also try something smaller and start with planting three and see how you get on. For this, use a pot with a width of 28-33cm and a depth of 20-26cm.” Remember that most bulb types and border irises require free-draining conditions, so make sure that the container you choose has drainage holes so that water can drain freely from the base. “Fill the base of the pot with crushed-up plant pots or brick rubble, with a mix of coarse gravel to ensure good drainage,” Simon suggests. Irises which like free-draining conditions should be planted in a general-purpose potting mix with some horticultural grit mixed in, or a homemade equivalent. “I use a peat-free compost with plenty of pea shingle mixed in for my potted irises,” says Simon. However, remember that the medium must also retain water reasonably well and you should mulch the top to help aid in this. Potting Up Iris Rhizomes Bulb irises can be planted on their own in a container or as part of a mixed bulb lasagne planting scheme alongside a range of other spring ephemerals. Plant the bulbs as soon as possible after you purchase them. Bulbs are typically planted at a depth of twice their height, though for more long-lasting container displays, planting iris bulbs at least 15cm deep can be beneficial. Planting at this depth can mean that the flowers bloom more reliably the following year. Border (rhizomatous) irises which come in containers are potted up in much the same way as any other perennial. “Leave the top of newly planted iris rhizomes exposed so that they can be sun-soaked during summer, but be careful to work the soil back in amongst the roots to anchor the plant well,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. New border iris rhizomes are planted between July and October, while potted irises should be potted up between March and mid-November. How Many Rhizomes Can You Plant Per Pot? At a minimum, bulb irises should be planted around 5cm apart for longer-lasting displays or around bulb width apart for a seasonal container display. It is a good idea to layer different irises which bloom successionally for a blooming display through spring and into the summer. Individual border irises purchased in pots should usually be placed into a container just a little larger than the one in which they came, though you could also consider growing these in a larger container alongside other plants which like similar growing conditions. If planting more than one border iris, note that larger plants require 30cm between them and dwarf plants should be placed around 15cm apart. Simon recommends planting tall bearded irises at a spacing of 22cm. Potted Iris Care Water iris bulbs but take care not to overwater when grown in containers. Aim to keep the soil for all irises that like free-draining conditions moist, but remember that they don’t like sitting in waterlogged soil. Otherwise, Iris bulbs are very low-maintenance. Just leave the foliage to die back naturally after spring flowering. With bearded irises, remove any yellowing leaves through the season if desired and deadhead when the flowers have turned brown or wilted. “Apply bone meal or seaweed feed to your potted irises,” says Simon. “Also, be very vigilant for slugs and snails.” If you no longer wish to pot up border irises, you can divide the plant and place the sections each in its own pot.
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Why The Biggest Threat To Most Irises In Winter Is Not The Cold, But The Wet
IN THIS GUIDE Caring For Potted Types Caring For Border Irises Caring For Irises Near Ponds Irises, when grown in the right location, can be hassle-free and relatively easy plants to grow. They are typically fully hardy in the UK and require little specific winter care. However, when thinking about how to care for your irises over the coldest months, this guide will cover everything you might need to consider. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Container, mesh, mulch, secateurs Caring For Potted Types The biggest threat to most irises in winter is not the cold, but the wet. Most potted irises need free draining conditions. Problems can arise if winter rainfall is heavy, especially if the growing medium or the container do not provide sufficient drainage. “Adding some extra horticultural grit to your potting mix can make a big difference to the drainage of a pot,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If planting in the soil, a handful of grit in the bottom of the hole can help drainage around the bulb.” Bulb irises which have been planted into containers in autumn will mostly remain below the surface of the growing medium until spring. To keep them safe over the winter, it can be a good idea, where squirrels and other pests may be an issue, to place a piece of mesh over the container so creatures cannot get to the bulbs. Sometimes, bulb irises growing in containers will be brought indoors as flowering houseplants, kept outdoors or in an unheated greenhouse until the buds open. Caring For Border Irises Border irises sown in the ground can also be vulnerable to winter wet. In this instance, it is a good idea to make sure that the area is sufficiently free-draining before winter begins in order to avoid any issues that may crop up in overly damp conditions before spring. Most irises grown in UK gardens will not require additional protection from the winter cold. However, in particularly chilly locations where extreme winter weather is expected, it is a good idea to mulch around the base of the plants. Cover the soil around the plants with an insulating layer of organic matter, such as straw or autumn leaves. However, make sure that the mulch material is light and dry, as very heavy and damp mulches can do more harm than good. Caring For Irises Near Ponds Cutting back moisture-loving irises in the shallow water at the edges of a pond or in its boggy margins is a good idea. By November or soon thereafter, you can cut back all the stems and foliage right to the base. This will make way for new growth as it emerges, and will also prevent the material from falling into the water. Excessive foliage decaying on a garden pond can upset the balance of the local ecosystem, so cutting back in late autumn or early winter is good both for the irises and for your pond.
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Growing Virginia Creeper: Beware, This Non-Native Species Can Be Very Invasive
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Ongoing Plant Care Controlling Virginia Creeper References A common sight around the UK, Virginia Creeper is a favourite choice for clothing the facades of country manors, estates and other large houses. Easily identified by the large palmate form of its foliage, the leaves of Virginia Creeper are green throughout spring and summer, but when autumn arrives, it really puts on a show. The vibrant hues of yellow, orange and red which follow are simply without parallel. The plant does also bear small, green flowers in summer which may simply escape your attention, and they are known to produce clusters of tiny blackberries later in the year. But beware – though they’re a favourite food source of birds, this plant does not come without its problems.1 Overview Botanical Name Parthenocissus quinquefolia Common Name(s) Virginia Creeper / American Ivy / American Woodbine Plant Type Perennial Climber Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Inconspicuous green flowers When To Plant Spring or Autumn When To Prune November As the name suggests, the Virginia Creeper is native to the east coast of North America, though it can also be found more centrally and further south in parts of Mexico and even Guatemala.2 Nonetheless, it grows without issue in the UK. In fact, some might say it grows a little too well. A prolific climber, the Virginia Creeper is capable of reaching 20m in height if left to its own devices. That’s why it’s advisable to watch it like a hawk and prune back regularly to keep its growth in check. It’s so vigorous, in fact, that it’s been listed as a non-native invasive species in the UK.3 That doesn’t mean that its purchase and cultivation is prohibited, but rather that you should take care to ensure it doesn’t spread – even when disposing of cuttings. Common Varieties There are several varieties of Virginia Creepers to choose from, some of which are more suitable for garden cultivation than others. These include: Parthenocissus quinquefolia This plant is classed as a non-native invasive species and will run amok in your garden if left untended. Only plant if you have the time and capability to keep it in check. P. quinquefolia ‘Yellow Wall’ A relatively new addition to the Virginia Creeper family, ‘Yellow Wall’ grows to only 15m or so. As the name suggests, its flowers turn a delicious shade of yellow come autumn. P. henryana Colloquially known as ‘Chinese Virginia Creeper’, this alternative is preferable to many people due to its more modest growing speeds. It does, however, demand a slightly more sheltered spot in the garden to really thrive. How To Grow Given that the plant is most commonly used to adorn the external walls of houses and outbuildings, the choice of location should be fairly straightforward. Since Virginia Creepers don’t develop self-clinging suckers for the first couple of years of their life, they should be trained up a trellis, bamboo canes or another support structure at the outset. After that, they will be mature enough and resourceful enough to fend for themselves. Ongoing Plant Care The speed of Virginia Creeper’s growth is matched only by its relative unfussiness. That’s reflected in its easy-going attitude towards the following elements: Light While Chinese varieties will benefit more from full sun exposure, the plant is hardy enough to do tolerably well in any aspect. Soil Requirements Don’t worry too much about soil quality, pH balance or makeup – just make sure it’s well-draining, since waterlogged roots are a big no-no. Watering Water the plant regularly until it is firmly established, after which time it should handle periods of drought relatively well. If they become prolonged, give the soil a good soaking to slake its thirst. Pruning However, just because it flourishes without too much in the way of TLC, that doesn’t mean you can sit back and relax. Quite the opposite: regular pruning will be necessary to ensure it doesn’t spiral out of control. When pruning, first remove all dead or damaged vines, then thin out any congested areas. Trim back as necessary, making each incision near a healthy bud. Angle your secateurs away from the bud to create a cut that slants away from it. “If needed, you can give Parthenocissus a light prune in Summer to check growth, as this often results in good autumn colour,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I like to cut back half the current year’s growth in autumn or early winter until it nears the size I want and when it gets close to the size I need, I prune back to 2-3 buds of the current year’s growth. “For a serious renovation of a large plant, you can often get away with cutting back to 1m from the base if you have some buds present.” Problems Although generally disease-free, Virginia creepers can be susceptible to fungal afflictions like anthracnose, cankers, leaf spot and powdery mildew. This generally only occurs in excessively hot or humid conditions, especially if the plant has been neglected and become overgrown. More common complaints are pest infestations. Spider mites and aphids are just a few of the pests that are attracted to this plant. Deal with them via an organic pesticide, if possible. Controlling Virginia Creeper The biggest issue with Virginia creepers is, as mentioned above, their proclivity for overstepping their boundaries. Control them by cutting back aggressively in late autumn or early winter after the foliage has fallen away and you can see what you’re doing. Pay special attention to areas in which the plant is encroaching on doors, windows and other features of the wall. You should also ensure that it is not allowed to hang over fences or walls into neighbouring territory, since it can self-propagate very easily. This is true with clippings, as well. For that reason, it’s essential that when pruning, you make sure all cuttings are disposed of in a plastic bag or another appropriate receptacle. “If you can’t remove your prunings from your garden, you can use the prunings to mulch the base of the plant or make leaf mold to mulch or pot up cuttings of Parthenocissus,” adds Dan. Simply tossing them on the compost heap is a recipe for disaster! References 1. Allen, S., & LoPresti, M. (2009, October 1). Virginia Creeper: Beautiful Vine, Abundant Food Source. Loudoun Wildlife Conservancy. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://loudounwildlife.org/2009/10/virginia-creeper/ 2. Mahr, S. (n.d.-j). Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/virginia-creeper-parthenocissus-quinquefolia/ 3. Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs. (2011, May 26). Preventing the release into the wild of certain plants and animals: guidance. GOV.UK. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/preventing-the-release-into-the-wild-of-certain-plants-and-animals-guidance
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Growing Phalaenopsis 'Moth Orchid' - Experts Share The Secrets To Their Care
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Indoor Varieties Where To Grow Caring For Phalaenopsis References For a touch of the exotic, Moth Orchids, or ‘Phalaenopsis’ as they are botanically named, can’t be beaten and will brighten up any room. Flowering for months on end in an array of colours, they are not as difficult to grow and care for as is often thought and actually grow well in a centrally heated environment. In this guide, we feature three specialists: Ken Griffiths – Chairman of Bournemouth Orchid Society. Malcolm Moodie – Chairman, Vice President and Show Secretary of the Solihull & District Orchid Society. Mark Riley – Technical Manager at Love Orchids. “What makes me passionate about growing orchids is the phenomenal variety of both plants and flowers that are available and the beauty of the flowers and their longevity,” says Ken. “They are one of the largest families of flowering plants and can be found worldwide in many diverse habitats, growing both epiphytically and terrestrially.” Overview Botanical Name Phalaenopsis Common Name(s) Moth Orchid Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Southeast Asia Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Evergreen Flowers Moth-shaped on arching stems When To Plant Anytime When To Prune After flowering Phalaenopsis are part of the Orchidaceae family and according to the RHS, they are the most commonly grown type of indoor orchid in the UK.1 Often called the ‘Moth Orchid’, their petals resemble the wings of a moth or butterfly and appear to daintily float at the end of long arching stems. First introduced from Asia to the United Kingdom in the 19th century, orchids became a status of wealth in the Victorian era and were prized by plant hunters.2 “Orchids are the largest family of flowering plants on earth with over 30,000 listed species,” says Malcolm. “They grow from the Arctic Circle to the Tropics and from sea level to in excess of 10,000 feet, making them an extremely widespread and variable family of plants. “This means you need to learn a great deal about their habitats in order to grow them successfully, which makes growing orchids challenging and immensely interesting.” Orchids can encompass many species including Cymbidium, Paphiopedilum and Oncidium. Phalaenopsis amabilis However, possibly the easiest to grow and the most widely available here in the UK is Phalaenopsis. “Orchids are one of the largest families of flowering plants, ranging from very inconspicuous types growing naturally in the UK countryside to large exotic types growing in rainforest tree canopies,” says Mark. “The breeding and development of commercially produced phalaenopsis orchids has allowed everyone to have colourful, exotic-looking flowering plants in our homes that are actually easy to look after.” Common Indoor Varieties These days, moth orchids are readily available to buy from garden centres and even supermarkets and come in a huge range of colours from white and pink to yellow and purple, all of varying heights. P. ‘Yellow Lightning’ (produces yellow flowers and red-edged petals) P. amabilis (larger orchid with white flowers up to 10cm across) P. grandiflorum ‘Rio Grande’ (purple and pink fringed flowers) Slightly more exotically coloured, watercolour orchids have their name as they often undergo a process of injecting coloured dye into the stems of the plant. Phalaenopsis amabilis These varieties will tend to flower again, however, they will revert back to their original colour of usually white or light pink. “Initially, a grower new to growing orchids should concentrate on growing Phalaenopsis Hybrids, as they are freely available and extremely tolerant of growing conditions,” says Malcolm. “Once a grower is confident in growing this type of orchid, they can then be more adventurous by choosing other Phalaenopsis species for growing in the home or, indeed, establishing a dedicated greenhouse for orchid culture.” Where To Grow Orchids can be a little particular about where they are placed. They prefer a constant temperature rather than one that fluctuates, so it is best to avoid spots near radiators or draughty windows, as cold draughts can make their buds drop. “Remember that phalaenopsis orchids are naturally epiphytes, so they grow on trees,” Mark explains. “The roots need air, very little water and very little nutrition. The leaves need good light conditions but avoid direct sunlight in the summer as this could scorch them.” Caring For Phalaenopsis Temperature & Humidity “Orchids have specific temperature requirements depending on the genera and fall into three main groups: cool, intermediate and warm,” says Ken. Phalaenopsis falls into the ‘warm’ category and should be kept in a place with minimum temperatures of 18-20°C during the day and 16°C at night. “Avoid temperature swings of more than 10°C from night to day,” Mark adds. Orchids prefer a humidity level of 50-70% and will struggle in very dry air, Ken explains: “It is important to maintain a humid environment around orchid plants to avoid desiccation.” This can be achieved by placing the plant on a tray of wet pebbles or gravel, especially during the autumn and winter when higher humidity is most required. “A kitchen or bathroom can often provide a more humid environment, although the aspect will need to be right too and many modern houses have low humidity by design,” explains Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist.. “I have an east-facing but bright bathroom and only windows to control the humidity – so a few humidity-loving plants have made it home!” Watering “Watering can be a challenge, as more orchids are killed by overwatering than otherwise, as this can lead to rotting and destruction of the root systems,” Ken explains. It is important to give an orchid the correct amount of water as if given too little, the roots may dry out and with too much, they may rot. To avoid root rot, orchid roots mustn’t be left to sit in water, so when watering, any excess must be allowed to drain away freely. “With the common moth orchid, make sure you do not get water on the crown of the plant, as this will rapidly lead to rotting and the loss of the plant,” says Ken. In general, orchids need to be watered every 1-2 weeks. “Water very minimally to avoid run-off or soak the pots once a week for 30 minutes, then allow all the surplus water to drain away,” says Mark. However, this may need to be increased during the growing season and reduced during the winter months. “Orchids, by and large, do not like their feet in water as a significant proportion, including Phalaenopsis, are epiphytic,” says Malcolm. Sunlight Phalaenopsis need lots of bright but indirect light to remain healthy and grow well. “In the home, avoid direct sunlight and do not place directly above radiators or other sources of dry heat,” says Ken. If placed in too much or too strong direct light the leaves can be damaged and the flowers might drop prematurely. An east or north-facing window sill tends to be fine as long as they avoid the midday harsh sun, or alternatively, artificial lights will suffice. “For Phalaenopsis in the home, grow the plant on a windowsill that is not south-facing,” advises Malcolm. Soil Requirements In their native environments, Phalaenopsis grow on trees rather than in the ground so they need a light and airy growing medium, as opposed to normal compost or soil, which would kill them. Specialist growing media for orchids can be bought online and often include a mix of sphagnum moss, coco and bark chips. “Overpotting is a common mistake and the various composts used must always allow air to the roots,” Ken explains. Fertilising “Orchids, due to their epiphytic nature in the species form, are weak feeders and should not be fed too rigorously, as salts might build up in the growing medium,” warns Ken. However, to encourage flower production and healthy growth, orchids need to be fed regularly during the growing season, but only with a specific orchid fertiliser. “When orchids are in active growth, use a high-nitrogen fertiliser and then switch later in the year to a high-phosphorus one to encourage flowering,” says Ken. It is advisable to carefully adhere to the dosage instruction though, as overfeeding (as mentioned) can potentially cause more harm than good. After Flowering Once an orchid has bloomed it needs a period of rest or dormancy before they prepare to flower again. After flowering, most of the blooms will fall off by themselves, if not they can be gently teased off the stem, after which the stem can be cut back to a healthy-looking joint. “Phalaenopsis are relatively easy to flower year after year once they have settled into a suitable home environment,” Malcolm says. Pruning Pruning an orchid can appear a scary task but is actually quite a simple process. After the flowers have dropped, the stem can be cut back using a clean pair of secateurs or snips, to a node just beneath the flowers. “With the moth orchid, once it has finished flowering, cut the spike down to just above a node on the old spike,” advises Ken. Common Problems Perhaps the most common problem when growing orchids is getting them to flower again. If they have been cared for correctly and still have not bloomed again, the plant can be placed in a spot a few degrees cooler at night than it previously was which can help encourage bud stimulation. “After deadheading, lower the temperature by 10°C,” suggests Ken. “This will commonly induce reflowering.” Root damage as a result of over or under-watering is also common and will affect the overall health of the orchid. It is often advised to grow an orchid in a clear pot to make regular checks of the roots more feasible. “Common pests such as mealy bugs, scale insects and aphids are sometimes encountered but are usually easily controlled if caught early enough and good cleanliness rules are adhered to,” Ken says. “There are a number of pesticides on the market which effectively control common pests.” Transplanting & Repotting Repotting orchids is only necessary every couple of years if the plant has grown too big for its current pot or if the growing media has begun to smell. To repot, carefully lift the orchid from its pot and gently remove any growing media from around its roots. Once the roots are free, any unhealthy brown or squidgy roots can be cut off. The remaining healthy roots should be white or grey and firm and if necessary, can be pruned back to 10-12cm in length. Repot using one size up only and don’t be tempted to use a much larger pot as the plant will struggle. Place the orchid in its new pot and carefully backfill it with a new potting mix, filling the spaces between the roots. Gently firm in the new potting mix so that on lifting the plant the pot does not fall away. Add a cane or support and tie in if required then water well, allowing any excess water to drain away and not sit in the pot. Propagating Orchids can be grown from seed, but this is perhaps best left to commercial growers due to the time involved. Thankfully, orchids can produce baby plants themselves on their current stems called keiki. These keikis will, in time, produce their own leaves and roots and can be carefully cut off with a sterile knife once 5-7cm long. The newly separated plant can then either be potted up in a small container or planted alongside the parent plant in the same pot. Once large enough, the new plant can be potted on and cared for in the same way. Propagating orchids can be an immensely satisfying experience, however, patience is required as it may take 2-3 years before the new plant will flower for the first time. References 1. Indoor orchids. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/orchids/indoor 2. Lu, W. (2018, March 1). Behind the Beauty of Orchids, Centuries of Violence. Edge Effects. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://edgeeffects.net/orchids/
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Growing Mexican Fleabane - A Mat-Forming Perennial Ideal For Dry Gardens
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Erigeron Ongoing Plant Care References Mexican Fleabane is a mat-forming perennial that is great for dry gardens and wildlife attractions. Learn more about this plant and how to grow and care for it in this guide. If you have a garden that tends to dry out or a tricky sun-baked spot, Mexican fleabane, Erigeron karvinskianus, could be an excellent choice for a resilient and fairly drought-tolerant ground-cover plant. It looks wonderful in a rock garden, creeping down the side of stone or brick steps, in cracks on walls or along pathways, and can also suit container growing. “I love adding ornamental plants like Erigeron karvinskianus, which flowers all summer long, into my container displays,” shares The Bonnie Gardener, Nicola Macnaughton. Overview Botanical Name Erigeron karvinskianus Common Name(s) Fleabane, Mexican Fleabane Plant Type Perennial Native Area Mexico Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Daisy-like When To Plant May-September When To Prune September-October Mexican fleabane is a deciduous flowering perennial in the Asteraceae plant family.1 It is native to Mexico and other parts of Central America and has naturalised in a number of other locations around the world.2 The plant grows from woody rhizomes, spreading out to form mats of hairy, narrow leaves from which daisy-like flowers around 1.5cm wide emerge. Like lawn daisies, these flowers open with white petals, but they soon develop a pinkish-purple tinge. How To Grow Erigeron E. karvinskianus can be purchased and planted out any time between May and September. It can be placed into planting pockets in a stone wall, in the crevices between paving or used as part of a rockery or other dry-zone planting scheme. “Erigeron karvinskianus looks really good tumbling down steps or over a wall,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Once established it will readily self-seed and the challenge is to edit where you allow it to persist. “Large clumps can be trimmed in early spring to shape and control their growth.” It can also work very well in window boxes or other containers. However, this plant is also relatively easy to grow from seed which is a cheaper and more eco-friendly option than purchasing young plants in plastic pots that are often grown non-sustainably in peat potting mixes. Growing From Seed The seed of Mexican fleabane can simply be directly sown where it is to grow in the spring. Scatter the seeds in March or April into the areas of soil between gravel, stones, rocks or paving where you would like them to grow. Germination will typically take around 2-3 weeks. Until they begin to form roots, you can also grow them in a cold frame and then transplant them once they establish themselves. You can also coat seeds in a small amount of clay and press these into gaps in walls so they can grow and spread over the vertical surface from there. Ongoing Plant Care When grown in a suitable spot, Mexican fleabane is a very easy and trouble-free plant to care for. In fact, where it is very happy, it should be noted that it will self-seed readily and can potentially become invasive, so this is something to consider before you decide to include it in your garden. Aspect A south-facing spot will often be ideal, but west or east-facing aspects can also suit this plant. Light & Temperature The plant prefers full sun but in particularly scorching spots, it will love a little midday shade. Soil Mexican fleabane can be wonderful for any free-draining soil that is moderately fertile and unfussy about soil pH. Although the plant is great for drier locations, it will do best in soil or another position that does not entirely dry out in summer. Fertiliser Feeding this plant will not usually be required. However, if the growth seems weak, organic liquid fertiliser can be used every month or so in spring and summer. Water & Humidity Though these plants like free-draining soil, it is best to water consistently throughout the summer months. Let the plant dry out between waterings, but if there is a prolonged dry period, be sure not to let it go thirsty for too long or it may wilt. Remember that when growing in pots you will likely have to water more frequently. Container Growing & Repotting Mexican fleabane is great for free-draining containers or window boxes in a sunny spot. Simply fill your container with a suitable, free-draining medium and scatter the seeds over the top in spring, and you should be rewarded with a profusion of flowers from May right through to September. As a relatively slow-growing plant, Mexican fleabane should not require repotting too frequently. Ideally, repot or transplant container-grown plants when the weather is not too hot and dry. Pruning & Deadheading You can deadhead the flowers to promote continued flowering, though this is not really necessary. In autumn, if the plants are looking straggly, you can also cut back the stems to just above the ground if they do not die back naturally themselves. Overwintering The plants will remain dormant over the winter months, dying back in all but the mildest areas, and new growth should emerge in spring. Propagating Once you have some Mexican fleabane growing in your garden, you can easily propagate new plants, either by collecting and sowing the seed or by dividing established clumps. As with seed sowing, division is best done in the spring. Remember that in many gardens, this plant may also self-seed prolifically. Common Problems Generally, you will find that you will not experience many issues with this plant as it is not typically troubled by pests or diseases. Most problems with die-offs arise because the spot is too damp, or winter waterlogging has occurred. Companion Planting Plants that work well with Mexican fleabane include: Erigeron ssp. Armeria Campanula portenschlagiana Globularia Lithodora diffusa Phlox douglasii Saxifrages Sedums Thymes Veronica umbrosa References 1. Mexican Fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/76923-Erigeron-karvinskianus 2. Mexican Fleabane – Erigeron karvinskianus. (n.d.). Brickfield Park. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.brickfieldspark.org/data/mexicanfleabane.htm
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From Fireblight To Root Rot - Here's 5 Common Photinia Growing Problems And Solutions
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Leaf Spot 2) Fireblight 3) Powdery Mildew 4) Frost Damage 5) Root Rot A popular garden hedge, photinia is a shrub that has seen an increase in its use in British gardens in recent years. It features brilliant spring and summer colours, as young foliage and fresh leaves are a striking hue of red. Rightfully considered a low-maintenance evergreen, photinia is susceptible to some problems and issues that are exacerbated by incorrect growing conditions. They are also minimised by favourable growing conditions, and can altogether be avoided in optimal conditions. We share 5 of the most common issues and problems you may encounter with your photinia shrubs, outlining how each problem can be avoided and treated. 1) Leaf Spot A fungal disease, leaf spot is probably the most annoying and chronic, though not the most serious, problem that can affect photinias. The disease is easy to recognise as it manifests as small red spots on leaves. The spots become larger and blotchier, darkening to maroon-purple, until eventually it starts shedding its diseased leaves, and does so continually. Heat, humidity, and wetness promote the spread of the leaf spot fungus, so by adjusting your photinia’s growing conditions, you should be able to prevent leaf spot from occurring in the first place. Appropriately-diluted solutions can also be applied as a foliar spray about every 10 days. 2) Fireblight Fireblight is a bacterial disease and is probably the most dreaded affliction of photinias, and that is because there is no remedy available to a hobbyist gardener. Summer is usually when this disease raises its ugly head. The symptoms of this disease are shoots and young leaves rapidly drying out, browning, and dying as if they have been blighted or scorched by intense sun or fire – hence the name. In addition, cankers may appear on mature branches which may start to ooze. Again, you can go some way toward preventing fireblight in the first place, but if you are too late, there are unfortunately no commercial chemical controls for this disease. If you spot it in the initial stages, you have a fighting chance if you quickly prune or trim all affected parts. The trick here is to peel back bark from the trimmed branches to inspect whether you can see a reddish-brown discolouration. If you do, cut the branch to a lower level. Alternatively, you could play it safe and hard prune the bush. 3) Powdery Mildew Photinia bushes can also be affected by powdery mildew. Powdery Mildew appears as a greyish-white powdery layer on the foliage. It too is strongly linked to humidity, wet, and shade, so you should avoid it by watering at the soil level. Affected parts need to be trimmed back. 4) Frost Damage Frost damage is, in the main, merely a nuisance. A cold snap or chilly wind could kill emerging shoots and foliage, though mature branches and foliage will not be damaged. The upshot is loss of colour, flowers, or both. 5) Root Rot Root Rot is a very serious ailment which can prove dangerous for any plant. Soil that stays soaked, dense and heavy, or drains poorly can lead to root rot. A container-bound photinia can certainly be treated for root rot provided the case is not advanced. The plant has to be pulled up and the rotten lengths of the roots, as long as they are not extensive, need to be cut away and the plant must be re-potted in fresh soil. Unfortunately, a large open-ground hedge that is afflicted with root rot may be difficult to save.
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