Growing
Schefflera ‘Umbrella Plant’ - Common Types, Watering, Repotting And Pruning Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Where To Grow Schefflera Schefflera Houseplant Care Common Problems References Native to warmer regions of the globe, Schefflera are tropical evergreen plants that add a lively splash of colour to any home or garden they’re located in, all through the year. Their main selling points are their broad-leaved foliage, which radiates out from the central stem in an umbrella-like fashion, giving them their moniker. Although they do produce impressive blossoms in their natural habitat, you’re unlikely to reproduce similar results in Britain. Indeed, their preference for warmer climes means that they’re most commonly grown as houseplants in this country. Even dwarf varieties can reach up to 3m indoors, making them one of the larger shrubs available, but they’ll still fit comfortably inside most rooms and give them a burst of life and energy. Overview Botanical Name Schefflera arboricola Common Name(s) Umbrella Plant / Parasol Plant Plant Type Tropical houseplant Native Area South & South-East Asia; Australia Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers White, pink or red tentacle-like flowers (rarely seen on indoor plants) When To Plant March-May When To Prune Whenever it appears leggy A member of the Araliaceae family, the Schefflera genus is a tropical evergreen shrub or tree native to tropical climes but hugely popular in the UK.1 The shelter-giving nature of its foliage has inspired its common name of the ‘Umbrella Plant’ or, more aptly in its native climate, the ‘Parasol Plant’. However, smaller varieties of the species are commonly grown as houseplants. Although this practice is relatively new in the Western world, it’s one that stretches back millennia in certain parts of Asia. Common Varieties Generally speaking, there are two common varieties of Umbrella Plant available in the UK. Schefflera actinophylla is the original cultivar and can reach heights in excess of 20m when grown outdoors. But as mentioned above, that rarely occurs in the UK due to the inclement climate on these shores. Instead, its smaller counterpart (S. arboricola) is preferred as an attractive tropical houseplant. This can reach 3m in height. Where To Grow Schefflera Schefflera need bright but indirect sunlight to flourish, so place them underneath a patio awning if growing outdoors and move them inside in the winter. Direct sunlight is a no-no since it can cause the leaves to burn and brown. They’re hardy enough to the elements otherwise, but need plenty of watering and will appreciate fertile soil which drains well but can still retain moisture. A slightly acidic mixture (sandy loam which resembles their natural jungle environment) is ideal. They require similar conditions indoors, so ideally you’ll find a spot for them near an eastern or northern-facing window. A sheer curtain can help to deflect some of the harshest rays of the sun. Humidity is appreciated but not essential, so a bathroom location can work well if available. Schefflera Houseplant Care Watering Schefflera like their soil to dry out completely before rewatering. For that reason, it’s advisable to check the soil is entirely free from moisture (inserting a finger into the top 2cm will do the trick) before watering them. When doing so, try to avoid getting the leaves wet and instead concentrate on the soil itself. Give it a thorough soaking so that the water runs freely from the drainage holes in the pot. Pruning Strictly speaking, schefflera plants do not require pruning at all. However, you might find that your specimen is becoming leggy, overgrown or unkempt, especially if it’s not receiving an adequate amount of sunlight. When pruning, strip back unsightly parts of the plant down to 2-3 leaf nodes above their stem to retain its shape. You’ll find that the plant will reward your efforts by redoubling on its own to achieve a fuller and more lustrous look in no time at all. “I find that pruning out straggly stems of Schefflera is key to keeping an attractive, compact shape to the plant when used as a houseplant,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In any other than the most perfect location, there is a tendency for them to reach a bit for the light in the home. They will respond with vigorous growth, which provides a lusher, more shapely appearance.” Soil & Feeding Fertile soil is essential to ensure your Schefflera thrives, whether it’s planted indoors or outdoors. There’s no need to add stones to increase drainage, but a compost with around 1/3 perlite to 2 parts soil in its composition is helpful. Again, fertiliser is not 100% necessary in order to maintain a healthy and happy plant, but it certainly won’t hurt. As hungry plants, they’ll benefit from a monthly application of liquid fertiliser in spring and summer and a bimonthly feed in winter. Staking In the vast majority of cases, staking your umbrella plant is not required, since it’s hardy and strong enough on its own. If you find that it’s beginning to droop under its own weight or become unwieldy, pruning it is a better course of action than staking. Repotting Schefflera plants must be repotted when they have exhausted the space inside their existing container. You can inhibit their growth by waiting until the last moment when roots begin to appear through the drainage holes or curl up around the sides of the pot. When repotting, remove the plant from the pot and gently tease apart the roots, soaking them in water to aid with the process if necessary. Place the root ball in a larger pot which has between 2-3cm of space on all sides of it, then fill it in with a 2/3 soil and 1/3 perlite mixture. Don’t compact the compost too much, then thoroughly water once more. You may be tempted to upgrade your plant to a much larger pot immediately to save repotting at a later date. This is not advisable, however, since it will inhibit the growth of your schefflera and contribute to a less attractive specimen. Propagating Propagating umbrella plants from cuttings is a tricky business that is likely to bear mixed results. To attempt it, take a cutting of a healthy stem about 15cm in length, making the incision at a 45° angle. Strip away all but the upper set of leaves (around 5-6 in total), then dip the cut end into a rooting hormone mixture. Plant the cutting into potting soil, submerging the tip deeply enough to allow it to stand up of its own accord. Within around a month, new roots should have formed, and you can check whether they have by lightly tugging on the stem. If there is no resistance at all, the propagation has not worked. Common Problems Although hardy creatures, scheffleras do suffer from damage, disease and pests at times. Here are some of the most commonly observed tell-tale signs, what they mean and how to counteract them. Leaves Curling If you find your leaves are curling or drooping, it’s most likely a sign that you’re not watering your plant enough. Remember to completely soak the soil once it has become dried out to the point that excess water runs freely from the bottom of the pot. Drooping Stems Like curling leaves, drooping stems are also indicative of a thirsty plant. Follow the instructions above to bring some robustness back into your schefflera. Dropping Leaves Your schefflera plant may lose leaves for a number of reasons. If the leaf drops are accompanied by curling leaves or drooping stems, you’re probably not watering it enough; if they’re not, you may be watering it too much! In either case, take the appropriate action to see if it helps. Alternatively, leaf drops can occur if the plant is located in too cold an environment or isn’t receiving enough light. Move it to a warmer, brighter area to test if that is the cause of the issue. Dark Or Discoloured Leaves If the foliage of your schefflera is browning, light or otherwise discoloured, it could mean it’s being burned by the sun. Place a shade nearby to protect it from the brightest rays. On the other hand, dark or discoloured leaves could be symptomatic of leaf spot. Treat the plant with a copper-based spray, then fertilise it more regularly to restore optimum nutrient levels. Deposits, Webs Or Growths On Leaves Sticky white residue on your plant points to the presence of aphids, which can be repelled with an insecticidal soap aimed at houseplants. If the growth is darker and more powdery in texture, it might be sooty mould, which is a by-product of an aphid infestation. Wipe the leaves clean and tackle the root cause. Meanwhile, webbing material on the foliage or stems is a sure sign that spider mites are attacking your plant. Use neem oil or another horticultural product (preferably an organic one) to get rid. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998j, July 20). Schefflera | plant. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/schefflera
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Vinca Minor (Periwinkle) Is An Excellent Set-And-Forget Plant To Help Suppress Weeds
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Is Vinca Minor Invasive? Common Varieties Sowing From Seed Planting Periwinkle Plant Care Getting Rid Of Periwinkle References Vinca minor, more commonly known as ‘Periwinkle’, is a low-growing perennial that’s widely used as weed-preventative ground cover. An extremely tough customer, it requires very little in the way of upkeep or maintenance, making it an excellent choice for set-and-forget corners of the garden. Its ability to thrive in low-light conditions and tolerate drought with ease makes it an ideal option for planting underneath trees or in shady alcoves where nothing else seems to grow. The evergreen nature of its foliage provides colourful intrigue throughout the calendar year, while the bright blossoms in spring and summer are an additional plus. Overview Botanical Name Vinca minor Common Name(s) Common Periwinkle / Lesser Periwinkle / Myrtle / Dwarf Periwinkle Plant Type Perennial Native Area The Mediterranean and Southern Europe Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Blue, purple or white flowers rotating out from a yellow stamen When To Plant Spring or autumn When To Prune August-November A native of the sultry climes of southern Europe and the Caucusus, Vinca minor has adapted remarkably well to the less predictable and hospitable weather in the UK.1 It’s a common sight in parks and even graveyards around the country today, while its ease of cultivation makes it a popular choice for green-fingered enthusiasts too. Is Vinca Minor Invasive? V. minor is a very vigorous and resilient grower and will require little to no maintenance from your side in order to continue thriving. In fact, my primary recommendation when caring for this plant would be to keep it from growing too vigorously and overstepping the mark. Having said that, the plant is fairly easy to control and is not considered invasive here in the UK. Vinca major – or greater periwinkle – is another kettle of fish entirely. This species is extremely invasive and will encroach on the territory of any neighbouring plants in its vicinity since it has a tendency to send down roots wherever its stems touch the soil.2 As a result, it’s highly advisable to ensure you are indeed planting V. minor (and not V. major) in your garden. Common Varieties The RHS Plant Finder lists 80 different forms or cultivars of V. minor. Most send forth bluish-purple flowers each spring and summer, but there are others which offer up lavender or even white blossoms as well. Here are some of my personal favourites: V. minor ‘Atropurpurea’ This variety produces bright green foliage and is complemented by a deep reddish-purple hue to the flowers, which makes for an extremely eye-catching package. V. minor f. alba ‘Gertrude Jekyll’ There’s a delicious contrast between the dark tones of the green leaves and the brilliant whiteness of the floral blossoms on this showstopper. V. minor ‘Illumination’ The variegated foliage on this specimen contrasts green with veins of gold, while the striking blue flowers add even greater appeal. V. minor ‘Variegata’ As the name suggests, this is another option with variegated foliage and blue flowers, though this time green is blended with creamy white on its leaves. Sowing From Seed Growing V. minor from seed is possible, but it’s a trickier affair than propagation via division or from nursery plants. That’s due to the fact that you’ll need to give the seeds extra care in their first few months of life and because they grow more slowly from seed. Having said that, it’s perfectly feasible to sow periwinkle seeds if you’d prefer to do so. Begin by filling a seed tray with a potting mixture and watering the compost thoroughly so that excess liquid drains from the bottom. Place 3-4 seeds in each cell and cover them with 5mm of soil, then firm down gently and mist. Cover the seed tray with a black plastic bag to retain moisture but block out direct sunlight, then place it in an area which enjoys a stable temperature of around 25°C – you can use a heat mat or other apparatus if necessary. After germination has occurred (normally within 1-2 weeks), remove the plastic bag and place the tray on a sunny windowsill. Keep the soil moist and fertilise with a standard fertiliser after around 10 days. Thin out the seedlings in each cell, keeping only the most healthy, and transplant them to their own pot around 10cm in diameter once they have reached a height of 8cm and show leaves. Feed with fertiliser once more after a fortnight. Planting When the plant is big enough to transplant outside, dig a hole big enough to fit the root ball and place it gently into it, then fill in the excess area with soil and water thoroughly. If you are not planting from seed (but from division, for example), simply cut off a section of the desired plant, ensuring that the root ball is big enough to survive on its own. Ensure that cuttings are kept at least 30cm apart to give them enough room for their roots to fully develop and voila! Your periwinkle will become self-sufficient in next to no time. You can use more than one seedling to cover a larger area, but be mindful that a single modestly sized plant is capable of spreading up to 2m in diameter. Periwinkle Plant Care Generally speaking, periwinkles are extremely easy to care for, which is why they’re so popular across the British Isles. Aspect For the best results, you should plant V. minor in a partially shaded area of the garden. However, one of its strongest qualities is its ability to do well in darker spots. However, avoid exposing it to direct sunlight as it may burn and die. Preferred Soil Periwinkle prefers soil that is fertile and well-draining, but again, it’s unfussy in this aspect and will accept almost any soil type. If you do find that your garden is home to particularly difficult terrain, you can improve it by adding mulch or well-rotted organic matter to the soil prior to planting. Watering Periwinkle is fairly drought resistant and won’t require much in the way of irrigation after its initial planting. This is why I like to use it as a ground cover underneath trees and other taller plants since its roots won’t compete for moisture or inhibit their growth. Pruning Pruning periwinkle is entirely optional. However, its fast-growing nature means you may want to keep it in check so that it doesn’t disrupt the harmony of your garden. If you are going to prune, I recommend that it’s best to do so once the final blooms of the season have begun to fade, which normally occurs in late summer. Common Pests The most common afflictions affecting periwinkle are the same ones which you will likely have experienced with many other garden plants. That includes all manner of creepy crawlies, including aphids, scale, spider mites and whiteflies. An application of neem oil or (preferably organic) insecticidal soap usually does the trick. Meanwhile, fungal diseases such as botrytis blight can also be a problem from time to time, with the most notable symptoms including leaf spots, wilting and dieback. You can avoid this problem from occurring by focusing on the soil rather than the foliage when watering the plants, as well as improving air circulation by thinning out the leaves and leaving enough space between plants. Companion Planting Because it’s a drought-resistant plant, V. minor plays well with most others and there are no specific specimens that I’d recommend to accompany it. However, a favourite planting location for me is underneath a garden tree, since most plants will struggle to thrive in the shade thrown by the canopy. “I tend to use Vinca minor if the object is purely ground cover to suppress weeds in an area (particularly dry shade),” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Its tendency to spread inexorably (though not as aggressively as V. major) means that it doesn’t associate well with a mixed perennial planting.” Its ease of cultivation and spreading tendencies also make it ideal for filling out a barren stretch of a rockery or flower bed. Just be careful that it doesn’t step on the toes of any neighbouring flowers in the vicinity. It’s also important to ensure that the location is right before planting since it’s difficult to uproot after the fact – but more on that in the next section. Getting Rid Of Periwinkle While periwinkle can be tricky to get rid of once it has taken hold, it is possible, especially when dealing with V. minor. Using a hand trowel, unearth all parts of the plant you wish to remove, including the entirety of the root ball, and then dispose of it in garden waste bags rather than dumping it on the compost heap. This latter step is especially important if it’s V. major rather than V. minor you’re handling, as the former can send down new roots even when unearthed. Only use a weedkiller as a very last resort, since contamination of any plants in the vicinity will kill them off, too. Apply to the leaves and let them suck the poison down into their roots. How Quickly Does Periwinkle Spread? Although V. minor is not as rapid as V. major, it will still spread fairly quickly once it is established. If planting from seed, you should have patience and expect things to progress slowly for the first couple of years. However, after that, or if propagating via division, the periwinkle will cover an area of up to 1m or more in a single year. References 1. Vinca minor. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:82701-1 2. Vinca major. (n.d.). Plant Right. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://plantright.org/invasive/vinca-major/
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Here Are 15 Easy-To-Care-For Shrubs That Are Evergreen And Ornamental
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Azalea japonica 2) Rhododendron ‘Kirin’ 3) Leucothoe fontanesiana 4) Elaeagnus × ebbingei 5) Prunus laurocerasus 6) Nandina domestica 7) Euonymus fortunei 8) Euonymus japonicus 9) Pieris japonica 10) Berberis × stenophylla 11) Viburnum plicatum f. plicatum 12) Ilex aquifolium 13) Aucuba japonica 14) Forsythia × intermedia 15. Juniperus squamata If you’re looking for a shrub for your garden but don’t have all the time in the world to spend on its upkeep – then this is the article for you. We outline 15 fantastic low-maintenance shrubs underneath. Besides attributes related to low-maintenance, we strongly favour ornamental value with a focus on evergreens so that you do not lose your screen in the winter. 1) Azalea japonica COMMON NAME(S): Japanese azalea HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; acidic pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread When it comes to low-maintenance bushes with ornamental value, azaleas are runaway winners. They are big bushes that are verily covered for many months with truly beautiful flowers in diverse hues and Japanese azaleas are no exception. All of these types attain heights from 0.5-1m, offering privacy as well as ornamental value. 2) Rhododendron ‘Kirin’ COMMON NAME(S): rhododendron kurume HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; acidic pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Rhododendron ‘Kirin’ is an evergreen shrub not too dissimilar to the variety listed above, but this one is slightly larger. This variety produces the loveliest funnel-shaped flowers over a long blooming season, and the colours range from pure white through mauve to intense reds. 3) Leucothoe fontanesiana COMMON NAME(S): dog hobble HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; acidic pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread These evergreens are fully hardy at H6, have no special positioning needs, and even tolerate heavy or poor-draining soils, making them the perfect low-maintenance shrub. They have a moderate growth rate, a dense structure and are ideally sized for rockeries, pots, and garden nooks, ranging from about 40-140cm. These plants also produce copious small white flowers with some varieties blooming in spring and others in summer. In most varieties, spring and summer bring foliage that is red, purple or cream, be it entire, mottled, streaked, or just flushed, and even when the foliage is green in summer, it is of a satisfying bright deep shade. 4) Elaeagnus × ebbingei COMMON NAME(S): oleaster / ebbinge’s silverberry HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread Oleasters are tough, zero-fuss evergreens and are able to make do in exposed locations and tolerate clayey soils. Most varieties have no positional requirements at all and most are even drought-tolerant. They are also very big at 2.5-4m tall and wide, so they make terrific boundary walls and privacy screens, but they do need to be pruned to keep them like a shrub. Most varieties bear oodles of scented white or creamy flowers followed by orange or red berries in autumn, but it’s the silvery-green foliage that is the chief attraction here. 5) Prunus laurocerasus COMMON NAME(S): cherry laurel HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 4-8m in height, over 8m spread For big and dense low-maintenance evergreen hedges, cherry laurel has to be a top contender. Several varieties rise to 5m with an equal or greater spread. What’s more, this tough shrub can make do in all soils, including heavy ones, and has no positional or aspect needs. Cherry laurels are aptly named, as in autumn they produce bright red cherry-like berries that become black by winter. These are preceded by pretty tufty racemes of tiny white flowers, so this shrub provides multi-season interest. 6) Nandina domestica COMMON NAME(S): heavenly bamboo HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Nandina domestica, better known as heavenly bamboo, produces lots of small white flowers followed by decorative berries. However, these marvellous shrubs are actually all about fantastic foliage which not only sticks around all year but displays a palette of colour as well. The artistically-shaped lanceolate leaves emerge in shades of pink, red, orange and purplish. As they mature, they start turning green at different points and at different rates, exhibiting a medley of colour. These hardy shrubs only require a sheltered spot and are slow-growing so require little to no pruning. “I must stress that a sheltered spot out of frost pockets is essential for success with this shrub,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “A little attention early on pays off, for young plants, particularly those in pots, and I recommend protecting them with horticultural fleece against early and late frosts in the first year or two.” 7) Euonymus fortunei COMMON NAME(S): winter creeper HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Euonymus fortunei gives you lots of options. These hearty shrubs have no positional or aspect needs whatsoever and are content in even heavy soils. Its year-round foliage has small rubbery leaves that are edged, mottled, splashed or delicately variegated in green, white, cream, yellow, or gold. Almost all varieties will bring further seasonal colour interest in the form of small flowers, berries or winter foliage. 8) Euonymus japonicus COMMON NAME(S): Japanese spindle / evergreen spindle HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil tpyes; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread These evergreen shrubs are available in a range of sizes, from 0.5-3m in height with a similar spread. These plants are genuinely low-maintenance and provide brilliant all-year colour with glossy, rubbery leaves that come in hues that range from green to gold. These hardy evergreens have no special positional or aspect needs whatsoever nor do they need much pruning – you can simply plant and forget! 9) Pieris japonica COMMON NAME(S): lily-of-the-valley bush HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; acidic pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread Pieris japonicas are among the loveliest evergreen bushes you can grow and that’s because they are loaded with small flowers. Some varieties bud in winter and flower through spring while others flower from late spring into summer. Many are white and nearly as many are in shades of pink and red, and you can choose whether you like your flowers in upright sprays or drooping panicles. This plant has a naturally neat and tidy habit which is complemented by the elliptical leaves of shiny mid-green that emerge in reddish hues. “Success with Pieris is usually pretty simple, plant in acid soil and a sheltered spot that is protected from frost,” adds Dan. “Your plant will also thrive if you can water it during dry spells, but it is not essential once established.” 10) Berberis × stenophylla COMMON NAME(S): golden barberry / narrow-leaved barberry HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread This variety of barberry is evergreen, which is why we have picked it, though other barberry cultivars are also worth checking out. The golden barberry has stiff, glossy, spiny leaves of a dark green colour and bears clusters of small yellow flowers throughout spring. Moreover, this shrub has no positional requirements whatsoever, and can even thrive in somewhat dense and heavy soils. 11) Viburnum plicatum f. plicatum COMMON NAME(S): Japanese snowball HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread Viburnum plicatum is a deciduous shrub which can grow from 1-3.5m in height and spread. Though they are bare in winter, most viburnum varieties bring unmatched pleasures through the other three seasons. Spring is ushered in with a beautiful display of snowy white, sometimes pink, flowers arranged in lacecaps or in globular clusters. The varieties that cannot hold their flowers into summer will at least show off serrated ovate leaves of an intense green shade, and when autumn enters, those well-shaped leaves will turn orange, russet, wine or even maroon. These slow-growing shrubs have absolutely no positional or aspect needs and most are content even in clayey soils. 12) Ilex aquifolium COMMON NAME(S): common holly HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: Up to 12m in height, 4-8m spread Holly, with its glistening red berries, is associated with Christmas, but this ultra-pretty evergreen is far from a one-season wonder. Some display purple stems in spring, others produce little white flowers in summer, and most bear bright red berries in autumn – a few even feature all three! “t is important to do your homework if you want berries, as often you will need compatible male and female plants to achieve this,” Dan adds. Though we tend to think of Hollies as small trees, since many are, almost an equal number are bushy shrubs or can be pruned to become such. All of them are seriously low-care with zero positional requirements and are even content in all kinds of soil. 13) Aucuba japonica COMMON NAME(S): Japanese laurel HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full shade / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-3m in height, 1.5-3m spread Among the more unusual shrubs, Aucuba japonica plants are dioecious – either male or female. Only the female plants bear pretty, decorative red berries and they will do so if a male plant is nearby. These shrubs are virtually pest-free and disease-free and have no special positioning needs. Most cultivars have glossy, slightly toothed leaves, but it is their varying patterns that are so interesting as many cultivars’ bright green leaves are either speckled, dappled or smeared in equally bright yellow. 14) Forsythia × intermedia COMMON NAME(S): forsythia × intermedia HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Forsythias are deciduous shrubs that are tough enough to have no positional or aspect requirements and can tolerate all kinds of soil. Some varieties, when established, are also drought-resistant. Forsythia × intermedia varieties range from 1.5-4m high while other forsythia shrubs are more compact, typically 1-1.5m in height and spread. However, they all produce an abundance of small flowers that completely coat their branches in yellow. Recommended F. × intermedia cultivars include ‘Lynwood Variety’, ‘Spectabilis’ and ‘Week-End’. 15. Juniperus squamata COMMON NAME(S): flaky juniper HARDINESS RATING: H7 SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Requiring neither any special aspect, pruning or positioning, being fully hardy and truly maintenance-free, Juniperus squamatas are plant-and-forget evergreen shrubs. They are little things as they rise to only about 1m, with most varieties having a slightly bigger spread. They are actually conifers and, therefore, have those stiffish needle-like leaves. Most of these technically bushy plants have rather a mounding-spreading form with an irregular profile, some varieties more so than others, as branches and fronds tend to jut out here and there.
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How Experts Prune Their Lavender Annually To Prevent Them Getting Too Woody
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Prune Lavender? When To Prune Lavender How To Prune Lavender Lavender is a great choice for many gardens, as it is not only a beautiful flowering plant but also a useful herb. Lavender is not usually challenging to grow, and as long as you choose the right spot to grow it in, it is low-maintenance and requires little care. However, to keep lavender happy and healthy, it is best to prune your lavender plants (at least lightly) every year. “How to prune lavender is one of the questions we get asked most often,” explains Julia Snowball, the Head Gardener at Yorkshire Lavender. When it comes to pruning lavender, this guide explains all you need to know. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Prune August-September Do You Need To Prune Lavender? “Pruning lavender is the best way to keep them looking fresh and healthy and to avoid them getting too woody,” says Nick and Lyndsay Butler, owners of Lavender Fields, a specialist farm based in Hampshire. Woody stems tend to look less attractive, and there will be less green growth over time, flowering will be reduced and the plant won’t look as good. Furthermore, woody lavender plants are more likely to suffer frost damage or damage due to waterlogging. By pruning your lavender plants, they won’t get woody as quickly and will stay green, healthy, resilient and flexible for longer. A woody and straggly lavender bush is usually best replaced since lavender won’t regrow well from older wood. When To Prune Lavender Lavender is best pruned annually, as Julia shares: “Lavender bushes should be pruned annually to stop them becoming large and woody. “I recommend pruning after flowering, but you should definitely not prune any later than mid-September.” Usually, you should only remove a little material and not hard prune back to wood. “Trimming the plants once a year is also essential for long life and good flowering,” shares Charlie Byrd, owner of Cotswold Lavender. “Cut at the end of the summer to allow the plants time to recover before they go dormant for the winter.” We’d recommend carrying out this job in August or in September, once the flowers have finished blooming on the plant. “However, for later flowering lavenders, including Lavandula x intermedia like ‘Old English’, you should cut back the following spring,” says Julia. To determine exactly when to prune, look at the flowers of the lavender plant. By this time, they should be dull and grey and bees and other insects will no longer be buzzing around them. When most of the flowers change in this way, this is the best time to prune. How To Prune Lavender The actual process of pruning lavender is very simple. Take some clean, sharp secateurs and remove the flowering stems, then cut back the current season’s growth while ensuring that at least a little fresh growth remains. “Prune all English Lavenders in the same way,” explain the Butlers. “English varieties should be pruned to about 2-3cm above the woody stems of the plant. “This may look harsh, but it will keep the plant healthy and ensure you retain the nice tight shape of the plant.” “Always ensure that there are green shoots below where you cut,” adds Julia. With English lavender, you can be more vigorous in cutting back than you can with other types and should not be excessively tentative if you want your plant to stay healthy and attractive for as long as possible. Personally, I like my lavender to look less clipped and more natural. A more organic look works better on a forest garden fringe, in a wildlife-friendly area, or in a natural-looking cottage garden. Since my lavender is on the sunny edge of my forest garden, I prune only lightly. If you prefer a formal, neat or contemporary look, you might like to prune back harder and keep a more neat and clipped appearance to your lavender, as long as you don’t cut back too hard. “Don’t cut into woody material,” Charlie warns. “They really don’t like that at all and will often die as a result.” Of course, a neater look might also suit you if you are creating a lavender hedge and don’t just have stand-alone plants. As you can tell from the above, pruning lavender is indeed a fairly simple process. Just remember not to prune back too hard to old woody growth, and in all honesty, you cannot go too far wrong. A light prune each year will keep your lavender healthy and growing strong and it should flower well for you over a number of years.
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Four Lavender Farm Gardeners Share Their Recommended Companion Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Companions Chosen By The Experts 1) Oregano 2) Bee Balm 3) Thyme 4) Ice Plant 5) Celery 6) Sweet Basil 7) Ornamental Onion 8) Rose Shrub 9) Yarrow 10) Ruby Grass 11) Sage 12) Purple Coneflower 13) Broccoli 14) Cardinal Flower 15) African Daisy 16) Parsley 17) Baby’s Breath 18) Black-Eyed Susan 19) Rosemary 20) Blue Fescue References Lavender is a wonderful aromatic shrub with evergreen foliage that is popular in herb gardens or traditional cottage planting schemes. With a preference for a sheltered position in full sun, it will need to be grown alongside other plants that can also tolerate and thrive in these conditions. Companions Chosen By The Experts Nick and Lyndsay Butler are the co-owners of Lavender Fields, a lavender farm based in the heart of Hampshire. “Lavender is a good bed mate with most plants,” say the Butlers. “The most important thing to consider for companions is size, given the vast number of lavender varieties available, especially from specialists like us, can range from 0.2-1m in height and width when fully grown. “If you are planting at the front of a border, you may want to consider a dwarf variety. If it is a large space you are looking to fill, you will want a larger growing variety. “The same consideration should be given to the companion plant.” So, what do Nick and Lyndsay grow with their lavender? “On the farm, we have planted lavender with roses, box hedging, and geraniums, to name just a few. “It is also lovely to interplant them with spring flowering bulbs that provide some colour when the lavender is not flowering.” Charlie Byrd is a farmer that has been growing his own lavender for nearly 25 years. He owns Cotswold Lavender, a specialist seller and farm in the southwest of England. “We grow grass and clover between the rows of lavender on our farm,” shares Charlie. “Grass is a natural weed suppressant and the clover, being a legume, naturally fixes nitrogen from the air and makes it available for the grass and lavender.” “Lavender combines well with roses, but my favourite would be to interplant them with Echinacea ‘Sensation Pink’,” says Patrick Fairweather from Fairweather’s Nursery. E. ‘Sensation Pink’ “This gives a flush of colour at the end of the summer. “Planting spring bulbs and tall summer-flowering alliums also works well.” “I find this works well as Echinacea flowers at the same time as Lavender (July in the UK) and also prefers a sandy well-drained loam soil,” adds Roy Nicol, Master Horticulturist. Julia Snowball is the Head Gardener at Yorkshire Lavender, a huge lavender farm based in the north of England. “At Yorkshire Lavender we grow Mexican Feather Grass among the lavenders to bring movement and contrast to the plantings. A. sphaerocephalon “We also have Allium sphaerocephalon dotted among some of the taller lavenders to add extra interest.” In the rest of this guide, we share twenty companions to grow with your lavender – plants that not only can grow well in a similar position, but might also bring about added ornamental value or act as a good pest deterrent. 1) Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: herb / perennial FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-0.1m spread Starting with another garden herb that is commonly grown here in the UK, oregano bears pink flowers on tall, erect stems in the summer and autumn that will look lovely next to the similarly built blooms of lavender. Not only that, but oregano is also a great pest repellant as it attracts beneficial insects like lacewings that feast on aphids and other small flies that could potentially damage your lavender crop. “In my experience, Oregano has a habit of spreading outwards, becoming a much larger plant over time and flopping over other nearby plants,” says Roy. “To counter this, when it has been cut back in the autumn, I reduce the size of the plant with a sharp spade, replanting pieces elsewhere as required.” 2) Bee Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Monarda didyma HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: herb / perennial FLOWERS: pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Monarda didyma, more commonly referred to as bee balm, is a hardy perennial that is beloved by bees and other pollinators. Also preferring a site in full sun, you can plant bee balm next to lavender if you have particularly loamy or sandy soil. Like lavender, some varieties also produce purple flowers, but the petals of bee balm are frilly, growing up to 1m in height on top of upright, dark stems. 3) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: shrub / herb FLOWERS: white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Thyme is another shrub that will look great when planted next to lavender, with its purply-white flowers making a nice companion to your purple-flowering lavender shrubs. Both of these herbs thrive in full sun, poor well-drained soil and a sheltered location and will work well together in a herb garden planting scheme. 4) Ice Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Hylotelephium spectabile HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With small pink flowers growing in clusters on stems up to 50cm in height, ice plants (often known as Sedum) make delightful additions to any garden displays, and, when grown next to lavender, they will also thrive in the full sun with minimal irrigation. Sedums are low-maintenance perennials and will not require too much care when planted out. Just make sure that the growing medium you are planting them in is not acidic, as these plants need an alkaline to neutral pH. 5) Celery BOTANICAL NAME: Apium graveolens HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: vegetable SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread The first and only vegetable on this list, celery makes a delightful addition to salads, soups and smoothies. By planting celery with lavender, this vegetable will grow more readily, as lavender is said to repel white moths and the celery fly which are some of this veggie’s worst pests.1 Do be aware before planting that celery requires quite a moist growing medium and will need to be watered more frequently than your lavender plants. 6) Sweet Basil BOTANICAL NAME: Ocimum basilicum HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: annual / biennial FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Sweet basil is one plant you won’t have to worry about in regards to additional watering, as it thrives in almost identical conditions to lavender. Basil can act as a deterrent to aphids and other common pests that might affect lavender and therefore help it to grow more vigorously. However, basil is not always great for growing with other herbs that might pair well with lavender, so avoid planting basil near sage, rosemary or thyme. 7) Ornamental Onion BOTANICAL NAME: Allium HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: bulb FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With onions, leeks and garlic all suitable for planting near lavender, alliums are a great bulbous plant to add to your herb gardens for mutual benefits. Not only do alliums usually display purple blooms in the summer months that will look great with the flowers of Lavandula, but alliums are also great for pollinators and will attract an abundance of bees and butterflies to your herbal displays. Alliums also love the same conditions as lavender too, so you won’t need to worry about altering them. 8) Rose Shrub BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa HARDINESS RATING: H6-H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 2.5-4m spread If you’re looking for an ornamental plant to plant with your lavender, you can’t get much better than roses. “Our favourite companion plant for lavender would definitely be roses,” says the Butlers. “The aroma of the two plants combined is lovely!” Shrub roses in particular are great to plant with lavender shrubs are they thrive in the sun and can tolerate conditions that other varieties might not be able to. Roses, unfortunately, attract aphids, whilst lavender shrubs attract ladybirds, which are notorious for eating pests. So, by planting your roses near lavender, it will protect them from aphids and also help them with pollination, all whilst brightening up your garden beds and borders. “The lower part of many roses are often quite bare, such as Hybrid Teas or upright English Shrub Roses such as Rosa ‘Queen of Sweden’, so Lavender does a good job of covering this up,” adds Roy. 9) Yarrow BOTANICAL NAME: Achillea millefolium HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: cream, white, yellow and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Like lavender, yarrow is a hardy perennial that thrives in full sun and well-drained soil that can provide a burst of colour to your flower beds and borders. Yarrow produces clusters of small flowers that appear in summer in shades of pink, white and yellow, so you have a wide range to choose from, but all will go well with the purple flowers of a lavender shrub. This plant is also a great choice for a wildlife-friendly garden, as its blooms are just as much of a delight to pollinators as they are to us. 10) Ruby Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Melinis nerviglumis HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: perennial / annual FLOWERS: pink / white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Melinis nerviglumis, also known as ruby grass, is a frost-tender perennial that is usually grown as an annual here in the UK. This grass produces a clump of tall, thin stems that bear cluster of feather-like flowers in summer and autumn that are either white or pink in colour. Ruby grass can be planted in between the herbs in your garden to provide a grassy backdrop and a subtle show of colour and it will also not require much care once planted out. 11) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: herb / perennial FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Like lavender, sage is native to the Mediterranean and is a drought-tolerant perennial herb that loves basking in full sun.2 Sage is a great herb to grow in your garden because it can be harvested from spring to autumn and will taste great throughout this time period, best used in dishes with squash or as a garnish.3 12) Purple Coneflower BOTANICAL NAME: Echinacea purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: purple and brown FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Pairing lavender with another purple plant like Echinacea purpurea is bound to be a beautiful sight, but this is not the only reason that these two are a good match. Purple coneflowers are perhaps even more drought-tolerant than lavender, so this plant will not need any additional watering and will thrive in a well-drained position in full sun. 13) Broccoli BOTANICAL NAME: Calabrese HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: vegetable SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread As we’ve already mentioned, lavender is a good companion plant for vegetables as its flowers release a scent that can deter pests from munching on your leafy greens. Broccoli is one of these veggies that will truly reap the benefits that lavender can provide. The pollinators that lavender will bring to your vegetable patch can help increase the yield of your broccoli and there’s some speculation that lavender can also help deter slugs, which usually love to feast on broccoli and other brassicas. 14) Cardinal Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Lobelia cardinalis HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The cardinal flower is sure to stand out wherever it is planted, thanks to its bright red flowers that grow on tall spikes up to 1m tall. This perennial needs to be planted in a loam-based site with poorly-drained soil, so you might be wondering how it can make a good companion plant with lavender, which notoriously favours drier conditions. Although I would not recommend planting these in the same ground, when placed in containers next to each other, the cardinal flower and lavender will create a stunning display that will encourage pollinators from your area to visit your garden. 15) African Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Osteospermum jucundum HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Blooming well into autumn even when your lavender plants have stopped flowering, African daisies are gorgeous perennials that bear daisy-like flowers in shades of purple from May onwards. This lovely plant thrives in the same conditions as lavender and, aside from some additional care over winter, should return each year and is relatively low-maintenance. 16) Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: herb / biennial FLOWERS: green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread There are mutual benefits when it comes to planting parsley with lavender. Parsley is a hardy herb that will make a beautiful grassy backdrop when planted near your lavender shrubs. Lavender is also great for attracting beneficial insects that will feed on pests that frequent parsley, such as aphids and flies. Be aware that parsley does need watering more frequently than lavender, so make sure that they are planted at a large enough distance apart to ensure they are both receiving the correct care without imposing on the other. 17) Baby’s Breath BOTANICAL NAME: Gypsophila paniculata HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread With a preference for dry, alkaline soils in a site that receives lots of sun, using baby’s breath as a companion plant for lavender is an obvious choice. The white flowers from this plant that appear throughout the spring and summer months will look great with any plant but will pair particularly well with lavender and its purple blooms. Although it might need some care over the winter, you should find that baby’s breath is relatively easy to grow. 18) Black-Eyed Susan BOTANICAL NAME: Rudbeckia fulgida HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow, brown and gold FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Black-Eyed Susan is a common sight in UK gardens and for good reason. This low-maintenance plant thrives in a range of conditions and looks great doing it, producing yellow, daisy-like flowers in the summer and autumn with brown centres on stems that reach up to 1m in height. The bright golden blooms will compliment the purple flowers that lavender plants produce, and since both plants are popular with pollinators, why not try planting them together in a wildlife-friendly garden? 19) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Rosmarinus officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERS: purple, blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread I think that rosemary is one of the best plants to grow with lavender. They both thrive in the same conditions, produce stunning blue and purple blooms at the same time in spring and summer and are also aromatic herbs that don’t overpower each other. As far as companion plants go, you can’t get much better. “As Rosemary has a tendency to become a large, sprawling shrub if left unattended, it’s a good idea to prune it back after flowering in the late spring to keep it to size and prevent it from flopping onto the Lavender,” says Roy. “It can also be grown as a low hedge in the same way as Lavender, so this principle can be applied to have complementary hedges grown together – even forming a pattern to your design!” 20) Blue Fescue BOTANICAL NAME: Festuca glauca HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: grass FLOWERS: green FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread To finish up this list I’ve picked Festuca glauca, also known as Blue Fescue, as I think it pairs rather nicely with lavender when planted in rock or gravel gardens or in more traditional cottage garden schemes. With silvery-blue foliage and green flowers in the summer, this plant is a delight even when planted on its own. This ornamental grass thrives in full sun and is drought-tolerant so could even be planted out in your herbal beds to create a more natural, grassy look. References 1. Why Can Lavender Be Used to Repel Moths? – The Chemistry of Lavender. (2017, July 10). Compound Interest. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.compoundchem.com/2017/07/10/lavender/ 2. Ridley, R. (n.d.). Mediterranean Herbs. The Herb Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://herbsociety.org.uk/information/gardening-with-herbs/mediterranean-herbs/ 3. Good Food Team. (2022, June 10). Sage. BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/sage-glossary
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Follow These Basics For Rosemary Pruning To Keep Your Plant Healthy, Abundant And Bushy
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Prune Rosemary? Pruning Over Winter Pruning After Flowering Reducing The Size Shaping For Hedging Rejuvenating A Mature Shrub Rosemary is an incredibly useful plant to grow in your garden and is also a great companion plant for wildlife attraction and pest control. It is also, of course, a popular culinary herb, and you can also use it in a wide range of other ways in your home. When placed in the right location, rosemary can be an excellent low-maintenance plant and will generally take up very little of your time. Pruning is one element of plant care to think about when growing this evergreen herb, but even this job is not hugely complicated or time-consuming. When pruning rosemary, here are the basic things to keep in mind: Pruning rosemary is not essential, but pruning is useful for keeping rosemary plants healthy, abundant, bushy and looking their best. Rosemary is best pruned in late spring or summer (often after flowering), and should not be pruned later in the year. Pruning can often simply be harvesting when it comes to a rosemary plant, so you do not necessarily have to think of these as separate jobs. Precisely when and how you will prune depends on what you want to achieve. We’ll cover pruning for different purposes below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Prune March-July Do You Need To Prune Rosemary? Rosemary does not necessarily have to be pruned at all. However, there are a number of reasons why pruning can be beneficial when growing rosemary in your garden. Pruning rosemary will: Allow you to remove any dead, damaged or diseased material after winter. Encourage a bushy and compact habit. Keep the size of the plant in check. Allow you to shape the plant if used in hedging or topiary. Rejuvenate an overgrown or mature rosemary shrub. Pruning Over Winter Rosemary is H4 hardy, which means it is hardy through most of the UK. However, during a harsh winter, especially if you live in the north or a colder region, tips on a rosemary bush may sometimes blacken and experience some frost damage. Here in Fife, Scotland, my rosemary occasionally experiences a little damage after a severe winter, though this has not stopped the plant from growing into quite a large and bushy shrub. In the spring, I will check over the plant, and where there are areas of damage, I will simply prune these off. The damage is never extensive, so this just involves giving the plant a light trim. Pruning After Flowering The rosemary I have on the sunny fringes of my forest garden does not flower, which is probably because the conditions are fertile there and rosemary flowers best in poor and very free-draining soil. However, since I am most interested in growing rosemary as an aromatic herb for culinary and other household uses, I don’t mind this. Where rosemary does flower well, the plant is typically pruned lightly for maintenance immediately after flowering. Rosemary flowers in late spring or early summer, so whether flowers actually form on your plant or not, this is the best time to give the plants a trim. Generally speaking, less is more when it comes to pruning rosemary. Maintenance pruning generally just involves removing tip growth and unsightly branches here or there as required to maintain a bushy habit and a pleasing shape. I don’t really prune my rosemary as such, but regular harvesting basically amounts to the same thing, since I regularly remove small sprigs for cooking and larger stems for drying. I will generally harvest or prune from the top 15-20cm of the mature plant. Reducing The Size If you would like to reduce the size of a rosemary shrub and keep it in check, you can give it a trim all over, but you should take care not to reduce branches too much in length and ensure that you do not cut right back any woody material. Flowers will form on the current or previous year’s growth and pruning too much can reduce or even eliminate flowering the following year. Shaping For Hedging If you are growing rosemary for hedging or topiary, then you may trim it to keep its shape in spring, then again in early summer for a neater and more orderly growth habit and form. Think about the shape that you would like to achieve, then simply lightly trim to achieve the form you desire. Take care not to prune any later in summer or in autumn, because this can encourage tender new growth that is less likely to make it through the winter months unscathed. Rejuvenating A Mature Shrub Mature rosemary shrubs that have become leggy and woody might respond to harder pruning, though you will lose any flowering that there may have been, and should still not remove more than a quarter of the plants. Pruning back by around a quarter in spring may rejuvenate your shrub. However, generally speaking, it is best to take cuttings or layer the rosemary shrub and replace one that has become overgrowth and woody altogether. “I find that hard pruning can rejuvenate a straggly Rosemary, but will have its limits,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “If you need to prune hard, take cuttings from the cut material. If it fails to respond or becomes straggly again, which is likely after a year or two, then you will have replacements ready.”
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Fertilisers Can Be A Gardener's Secret Weapon - But When Should You Use Them?
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Plant Fertiliser? Why Use Them? When To Fertilise Plants What Are The Different Types Of Fertilisers? Fertilising Do’s & Don’ts How To Fertilise Plants How To Make Homemade Fertiliser Fertilisers are used frequently in gardening and there are many different types to choose from. In this guide, we’ll take you through the basics of fertilising so you know how and when to feed plants growing in your garden. What Is Plant Fertiliser? Plant fertiliser is an organic or artificial product that contains various elements, particularly nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (NPK) their salts and compounds, and other micro-nutrients that plants need for growth and vitality. These components can be beneficial to their overall health and bring about various desirable outcomes, even if they aren’t needed for growth. Plant fertilisers are available as solids, granules or powder, or liquids. Why Use Them? Though some plants do not need fertilising, a clear majority of plants derive benefits from correct fertilising. These plants include flowering plants, herbs, shrubs, vines, vegetables, fruits and even some trees. These benefits include resistance to pests and diseases, a more robust root system, stronger growth, healthier foliage, better yields, properly-formed fuller flowers and more profuse blooming. When To Fertilise Plants As a general rule, springtime is the fertilising season for most perennials, but depending on the plant and its blooming season, it may be fertilised during other times of the year too. Ornamentals are often fertilised just before the flowering season is due to start, whilst some require additional feeding during the flowering season as well. Many types of plants growing in containers or in greenhouses are fertilised periodically. As to the specifics of this question, we suggest that you look up the fertilising regimen for the particular plants at issue. Savvy gardeners also fertilise plants as and when needed. If they observe that a plant has some nutritional deficiency or is less than healthy, they may decide to feed it. Plants that are stunting, wilting and flowering poorly may prompt gardeners to feed the plant with an appropriate fertiliser. What Are The Different Types Of Fertilisers? Fertilisers are found in an enormous range of kinds and types and it is hardly possible to enumerate them all. Plant fertilisers meant for home gardens are divided into chemical or synthetic fertilisers and natural or organic fertilisers. Quite often a fertiliser product will include content that is chemically or synthetically derived as well as taken from natural or organic sources. Fertilisers are typically produced in granular or powder form which are most often used for plants in open ground. They are also available in liquid form which is primarily used for container plants and also for edibles. Controlled-release and slow-release fertilisers, which are sometimes incorrectly thought to be synonymous, introduce nutrients into the soil over a longer period of time. Controlled-release fertilisers are coated granules of inorganic material with a coating formulated to release the nutrients at a controlled speed proportionate to the soil’s dampness and temperature. Slow-release fertilisers are mostly organic and by virtue of the action of soil microbes, they simply break up slowly and release the nutrients slowly. Liquid fertilisers are available in the form of inorganic elements and compounds as well organic material. Some formulations are ready to apply, others need to be diluted. Fertilising Do’s & Don’ts When using fertilisers: Do not allow undiluted or raw fertiliser of any kind to come into contact with a plant’s roots. Do not exceed the maker’s specifications as to volume per surface area or dilution strength. Do not exceed the frequency of fertilising that is recommended for a particular type of plant. Do not fertilise a very young, injured, or diseased plant in the same way that you would a healthy, mature plant. Be sure to steer clear of the don’ts above and to apply fertiliser as recommended on the label. Fertilisers should be used correctly else your efforts may go for nought and you may even injure your plants. How To Fertilise Plants First, try to evaluate your soil pH. If it is too far out of line from the appropriate range for the plant in question, the roots will not be able to absorb fertiliser nutrients. Before fertilising your plant, you should first have a good understanding of: The type of fertiliser Its dilution requirements or its proportion to the soil The quantity that needs to be applied Where in the soil it should be applied The best seasonal time of application The correct frequency of application Fertilisers are used in three ways: top dressing or sprinkling, soil amendment, and watering over. Sometimes nitrogen-based liquid or powder-fertiliser solution is also sprayed on the underside of leaves. In the top dressing method, the recommended quantity of fertiliser is laid, quite often scattered by hand, on the surface of the soil around the plants. In the soil amendment method, the recommended quantity of fertiliser is mixed into the pile of soil you have set aside, or the ground is cultivated and tilled and fertiliser is mixed into the native soil, amending it. The watering-over method is where the gardener simply pours an appropriate volume of liquid fertiliser, diluted as necessary, around the main stem. How To Make Homemade Fertiliser Understanding how to make homemade compost is a good place to start. Get chicken or rabbit manure and allow it to rot well in the sun. This can make a great base for compost. Rotating compost tumblers and comfrey deserve a special mention. Many rotating compost tumblers make very desirable compost tea as a by-product of the composting process. Comfrey leaves, especially Russian comfrey leaves, are among the best green materials for making compost and fertiliser for flowering plants as the leaves are especially rich in potassium. Composting comfrey leaves, among other materials, in a rotating tumbler will result in very high-quality compost tea. “The simplest way to fertilise plants is to mulch or top-dress the soil with well-composted garden compost or peat-free multipurpose compost,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “However, plants we refer to as hungry due to flower and fruit development would often need additional slow or controlled release fertiliser and possibly additional liquid feeds to achieve best results. “Light applications of well-rotted manures can be beneficial, but don’t use these with root vegetables as it causes roots to distort, this is called forking in roots like carrots.”
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Deadheading Ranunculus Can Help Them Bloom Better - But Careful Not To Prune Too Hard
IN THIS GUIDE Deadheading Pruning Ranunculus is a varied genus incorporating a wide range of flowering plants, commonly known as ‘buttercups’. Many buttercups may grow in UK gardens, including native options like meadow buttercups, and common weeds or wildflowers like creeping buttercup. These are low to no-maintenance plants, which require minimal care in British gardens. As gardeners, however, there are a number of other ranunculus varieties that you might choose to cultivate, which do require a little more care. The most popular of the non-native ranunculus is Ranunculus asiaticus, also known as the ‘Persian Buttercup’, or ‘Garden Ranunculus’. These are popular florists’ flowers, commonly chosen for weddings and other special events and they look wonderful in the garden but are also excellent as cut flowers – with good longevity once cut. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife When To Prune Remove spent flowers as and when they appear Deadheading Most garden ranunculus will bloom for longer and more prolifically if you deadhead the spent blooms. This will encourage the plants to put their energy into flower production rather than on producing seeds. If you are not interested in collecting seeds to sow, deadheading can improve your flowering displays and give you more cut flowers for your home. To deadhead ranunculus, simply snip off any stems that have finished flowering, or spent blooms on branching types, using clean sharp secateurs or a gardening knife. Of course, if you cut flowers for displays inside your home, then you may not need to deadhead at all. “Whilst for some plants, I recommend taking a little more growth off whilst deadheading to keep them compact, this is simply not the case with Persian Buttercups,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Slicing cleanly to where a flower stem joins another or to a leaf is all that is required whilst flowering. “After flowering, wait another six weeks as a minimum, before cutting plants to ground level ahead of their dormant period, if you decide to do this.” Pruning Other than deadheading, ranunculus does not typically need to be pruned or cut back at all. It is important to leave the foliage in place after the flowering has finished, as this foliage is still collecting energy which will be stored in the tubers over the dormant period and will allow for strong healthy growth and good flowering the following year. Once the foliage has died back naturally, you can cut this right back to the ground. However, it is generally best to leave this in place for the wildlife in your garden or to offer some protection from the cold to the tubers when growing in cooler regions or when growing in pots. Some people will choose to lift the tubers over winter, to store them in a cool, dry place. If you are doing so, you will cut the foliage back before you lift the tubers, but in most cases, this is not necessary and you can leave the plants in a suitable spot (in a greenhouse, polytunnel or a dry and sheltered spot outdoors).
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Why Ranunculus Grow Best In Containers: They Love Free Draining Conditions
IN THIS GUIDE Are Ranunculus Suited To Pots? Choosing Suitable Containers Compost For Ranunculus Potting Up Ranunculus Container Ranunculus Care Though there are many Ranunculus species, many use the term ranunculus to refer to Ranunculus asiaticus, also known as ‘Persian Buttercup’ and sometimes simply referred to as ‘Garden Ranunculus’. These plants are popular for their stunning flowers that come in a range of hues and there are a number of different varieties to consider. These flowers can look great in a sunny and sheltered spot in the garden, or when used as cut flowers in displays. They are extremely popular for weddings and other special events. Are Ranunculus Suited To Pots? Unlike our native buttercups, and other ranunculus plants commonly grown in more wild, organic and natural-style gardens, these ranunculi are more tender. They are often cultivated in containers, sometimes in a sheltered and sunny spot outdoors, but more commonly, in the UK, in an unheated greenhouse. In short, yes, you can grow garden ranunculus in pots. In fact, this is the best way to grow them. There are also other ranunculi that can work well in containers, including alpine varieties, but in this article, we’ll focus on the popular florist flowers – Persian buttercups. Choosing Suitable Containers One of the reasons that these ranunculi grow well in containers is that they enjoy free-draining conditions. Containers can often provide free-draining conditions more effectively than in-ground growing, especially where there is heavier or clayey soil. When choosing a container for these and any other plants that like free-draining conditions, it is important to choose one which will allow excess water to drain away freely. You should make sure that there are drainage holes at the base and should also consider using feet to keep pots up and off the ground. Terracotta pots can be an ideal choice and their colour can look good in a Mediterranean garden scheme or courtyard garden, where these flowers will look at home. Compost For Ranunculus These ranunculi will grow best in a medium made up of one part loam, one part leaf mould, and one part grit. You can also use any peat-free, loam-based multipurpose compost with a grit added at a ratio of two parts compost mix by one part horticultural grit. Potting Up Ranunculus Ranunculus are grown from tubers or from seed. Young plants can also often be purchased from garden centres or plant nurseries. There are larger tubers that will provide more flowers and smaller tubers that will not produce as many. The tubers should be planted with the pointed ends (finger-like protuberances) pointing down and should be set around 5cm deep. Water well upon planting, but then hold off watering again until you see sprouts so that the tubers do not rot. It is also a good idea to hydrate the claw-like tubers by soaking them for a few hours before planting. How Many Plants Per Pot? How many you can plant per pot will depend on which specific variety you are growing, and on the size of the container. As a general rule of thumb, the tubers should be planted 30cm apart if they are larger ones, and around 10cm apart if they are smaller ones. You could place 3-4 smaller plants into a 25-30cm pot. Container Ranunculus Care Place containers in a sunny and sheltered spot outdoors, or under cover in an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel, ensuring good light levels and ventilation. “If you’ve got an open porch which receives sun for a good portion of the day, I can hardly think of a better plant for late spring impact,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “If there’s one thing these plants hate, it’s sitting wet. “A porch provides the rain shadow and shelter that these plants appreciate, whilst giving them the light they crave, unless north-facing.” Water your ranunculi in pots whenever the top few centimetres of soil is dry to the touch, but make sure that excess water can always drain away freely and never allow waterlogged conditions to develop. Add a mulch around the top of the container to retain moisture, ensuring that this does not touch the plants themselves and that the base of the stems remains free and clear or they may rot and develop fungal issues. A grit mulch can be decorative and suppress pot weeds too. Add a balanced organic fertiliser on planting and feed with an organic, potash-rich organic liquid feed every couple of weeks during the blooming period for best results. Deadhead ranunculus regularly to encourage the plants to focus on flowers rather than seed production (unless you want to harvest seed to sow). The plants should be left with their foliage intact after flowering. Protect from early frosts with horticultural fleece or other protective measures if growing outdoors. After the foliage turns yellow and dries up, store the plant in a cool but frost-free location. “For seasonal containers, you can lift and pot tubers into 1 litre pots after flowering, for storing over late summer, autumn and winter, when they are dormant,” adds Peter. Cease watering and then resume watering only once new growth emerges once more. You can also lift and store the tubers in a dry, cool location to replant in spring. These are not the easiest plants to cultivate, but many feel that the beauty of the flowers and their relative longevity when cut makes the effort worthwhile.
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