Growing
Calibrachoa ‘Million Bells’ - Are They Worth It For One Season Of Growth?
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Reasons To Avoid Planting How To Grow Planting Ongoing Plant Care References Calibrachoa is a popular half-hardy bedding plant for a summer container garden. Its pretty bell-shaped flowers look like mini petunias and come in a wide range of colours. Overview Botanical Name Calibrachoa Common Name(s) Million Bells Plant Type Evergreen Perennial Native Area South & Central America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Petunia-like, 2-3cm in diameter in a range of hues When To Plant May-June Calibrachoas, you might be surprised to learn, are actually in the same plant family as potatoes, tomatoes and peppers (Solanaceae).1 They are, in their native South American range, short-lived perennials or subshrubs, but they are treated as annuals in the UK and other temperate climate gardens.2 The Million Bells series is a collection of hybrid calibrachoa commonly cultivated as garden plants. Most frequently, they are used as summer bedding plants in hanging baskets or pots, as they have a trailing habit. They typically provide an excellent flowering display between early summer to early autumn, before temperatures fall and the plants are simply added to your composting system. Reasons To Avoid Planting For sustainable, eco-friendly gardeners like me, plants like this one are somewhat problematic. While many love these pretty flowers and the way in which they trail over the edges of containers and hanging baskets, they pose a problem for those who want to garden in a more ethical way. The problem is that these are hybrids, which cannot be grown from seed, and you cannot propagate these plants yourself at home because most are trademarked and it is technically illegal.3 Plug plants or pot-grown plants are available relatively inexpensively from garden centres, but most if not all come in plastic pots, and most come in peat-based compost – things we should all be trying to avoid. I personally would not purchase these because I don’t think the true cost (to people and planet) is worth it for just one season of growth. I would always try to go for options which I can grow from seed, or propagate myself for future years – but of course, this is a personal choice. How To Grow As mentioned above, Calibrachoa hybrids cannot be grown from seed. If you wish to grow these plants then you must either pick up plug plants in the early spring or somewhat larger plants in late spring or early summer. Planting Plant out calibrachoa once all risk of frost has well and truly passed in your area. These are tender plants which cannot cope with temperatures below 1-5°C. Plug plants are the most affordable option, but remember that plug plants purchased in early spring must be potted up and grown in a frost-free environment before they are hardened off and planted out from late May. You will need to make sure you have a suitable spot in which to do this. Ongoing Plant Care Million bells may look great, but it is important to understand that though this series is bred to be better for UK growing, and can cope with poor summer weather, it is still quite fussy about exactly how and where it will grow and does require some conscientious care. Aspect Million Bells must be positioned in a sheltered spot in full sun. A hanging basket or container against a sunny, south-facing wall is ideal. Soil Requirements These plants can be planted in any multipurpose, peat-free compost, or in any free-draining yet moist growing medium or soil. You can grow these in a bed or border, but they are typically grown in containers or hanging baskets because they look good trailing over the sides. Note that the containers that you choose should be moderately good at retaining moisture, but must allow excess water to drain away freely. Make sure there are good drainage holes and use pot feet to raise containers up off the ground. Watering Calibrachoa should be watered regularly over the summer months. Although these plants will not tolerate waterlogged conditions, they will also suffer if allowed to dry out. Keep the growing medium moist and remember that this could involve watering every day, perhaps even more often if the weather is very warm and dry. Fertilising Feed these plants every couple of weeks from mid-summer with a high-potassium organic liquid plant feed like comfrey tea or seaweed extract. Pruning No deadheading is required as these plants drop their spent flowers on their own, but you may wish to pinch back each stem, nipping off the growing tip, as this can prevent legginess and encourage the plants to bush out and produce more flowers. Overwintering These are single-season plants which are only used for summer bedding and are composted once the weather turns in autumn. Propagating As mentioned above, while Million bells could technically be propagated by means of softwood cuttings, this is technically illegal since the plants are trademarked. New plants must be purchased each year if you want to continue to grow these flowers in your garden in successive years. Common Issues Calibrachoas can be rather fussy plants when it comes to temperature, sunlight and water. They will not flower well if they are grown in an area with too much shade and will die in cold temperatures and can wilt when the temperatures are very high. Flowering will also be poor if you have not watered consistently, and wilting can be due to a lack of water or can be a sign of overwatering, which may have led to root rot. Grey mould is another common issue and can be a sign that you have overwatered. Yellowing leaves can be a sign of a nutrient deficiency and may mean that extra feeding is required. Calibrachoas can also be bothered by pests like aphids, slugs and snails, though these can usually be controlled organically by attracting ladybirds, hedgehogs, birds and other beneficial predatory wildlife to your garden. “In my experience, other organic methods, such as treating the compost in pots with nematodes and applying copper tape around the edge of pots, can be very effective at deterring slugs and snails,” says Roy Nicol, a Professional Horticulturist with over 10 years of experience. References 1. Calibrachoa x hybrida. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/calibrachoa-x-hybrida/ 2. Calibrachoa. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:38309-1 3. Get plant breeders’ rights for your new variety. (2023, January 5). GOV.UK. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.gov.uk/guidance/plant-breeders-rights
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Grow Sweet Box For Winter Interest In The Colder Months - Horticulturists Share How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Sweet Box Plant Care Propagation References Sarcococca confusa, or sweet box as it is often known, is a great shrub for providing winter interest during the colder months. Around the festive time in December and January, it produces small and delicate white flowers that are sweetly scented and give the plant its other name – Christmas box. A tough and easy-to-grow evergreen shrub, it needs little care and grows equally well when planted in a border or in a pot. Overview Botanical Name Sarcococca confusa Common Name(s) Sweet box / Christmas box Plant Type Shrub Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers White When To Plant All year round When To Prune February-March Sarcococca confusa is a member of the Buxaceae family and was introduced to the United Kingdom from China in the early 19th century.1 A group of hardy and reliable shrubs, sarcococcas not only provide some evergreen interest all year round, but their flowers can brighten up the darkest of winter days. Sarcococca shrubs are tough and will cope with a fair amount of neglect and pollution, making them perfect for a front garden or city courtyard. S. confusa is one of the densest growing varieties and can grow, if given room, to an eventual height and spread of 2m. Having been awarded the Award of Garden Merit by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), it has proven to perform reliably well in the garden. Planting Sarcococca shrubs are widely available and are sold potted up in a range of pot sizes from 9cm all the way up to 50L plus. Sarcococca tends to be an unfussy shrub to grow and will cope with almost any soil as long as it is moist and free-draining. To plant directly into the ground, prepare a hole twice as wide as its root ball and at least as deep. Add some well-rotted organic matter and, if the soil is heavy, some horticultural grit to open up the soil and increase drainage. Backfill with soil, firm in gently and water in well. If planting in a pot or container, make sure drainage holes are present and add some crocks or gravel to the base of the pot. Part fill with a free-draining potting mix for shrubs and plant the sarcococca at the same depth it previously was, then backfill with soil and water well. Where To Plant Sarcococcas will tolerate almost any position as long as it is sheltered. Preferring full or partial shade, they are ideal for a troublesome north-facing spot or in the shade of a tree. However, they can also be grown in full sun as long as the soil is kept from drying out. The scent of the sweet box in flower is so special that it’s a shame not to appreciate it, which is why they are so often planted near a porch or doorway so they can be enjoyed when passing. When To Plant Commonly available as a potted shrub, sarcococcas can be planted at almost any time of year, except when the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Care must be taken if planting during the warmer months though as they will need enough moisture to help them get established and not dry out. Sweet Box Plant Care Soil Requirements S. confusa is a tolerant shrub and will cope well when grown in most soil types, whether clay, loam, chalk or sand, as long as it is free-draining and can be kept moist. Pruning S. confusa is an easy shrub to grow and care for and pruning is not strictly necessary. However, they can be pruned with a clean and sharp pair of secateurs or shears right after flowering in February or March to keep them to size and shape. “I have a low S. confusa hedge by my front door as its scent, at a time of year when little else is flowering, is so welcome,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “The scent hangs on the breeze on cool, still late winter days. After flowering, in March or April I cut the hedge back, removing all of the previous season’s growth. “It will flower again on the new season’s growth.” Overwintering Sweet box plants have an H5 hardiness rating, which means they are usually able to withstand temperatures as low as -10 to -15°C and are able to survive even a harsh winter in most parts of the UK. Common Problems S. confusa tends not to be affected by pests or diseases and usually grows for many years relatively carefree. However, when grown in a pot or container it can be easy for them to dry out, with their leaves turning crinkly and yellow or brown, unless watered deeply and often during the summer months. Companion Planting Sweet box shrubs are happiest when grown in the shade and are often grown with other plants with similar growing requirements. Cornus Growing to an eventual height and spread of 2m, they are perfect for the back of a border – and combine well with other winter interest plants such as cornus and hellebores. Being evergreen, they are often used as a screening plant and grown as a low informal hedge. Propagation S. confusas sucker freely and can be propagated in a number of different ways. Perhaps the easiest method of increasing your sweet box stock, either for the garden or to give away to family and friends, is by using the suckers. Growing under the foliage around the base of the plant, these suckers can either be cut off a few centimetres under the soil surface with a sharp knife or pulled up. These suckers usually have some short white roots attached and can be potted up and grown on until large enough to plant out. Sweet box can also be propagated by semi-hardwood cuttings taken at the end of the summer or in early autumn. 10-15cm long cuttings can be taken from any healthy growth, but need to include some soft green growth at the top and harder wood at the bottom. Remove all but the top 3-4 leaves and cut the base of the cutting square, just below a leaf node. Insert the cuttings halfway into a pot filled with free-draining potting mix and water well. Cover with a clear plastic bag to limit any moisture evaporating and keep out of direct sunlight until rooted, after which they can be potted on. Sarcococca can also be grown from seed, however, this tends to be the least preferred option for home gardeners as they grow so well from suckers and cuttings. References 1. Sarcococca Confusa (sweet Box). (2021, April 7). Birmingham Botanical Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.birminghambotanicalgardens.org.uk/plants-of-the-month-december/sarcococca-confusa/
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Thin Stalks On Your Rhubarb? Your Plant Might Need Dividing Or Fertilising
IN THIS GUIDE 1) A Lack Of Nutrients 2) The Plant Is Immature 3) It Needs Dividing 4) Harvesting Incorrectly 5) Flowering & Going To Seed References Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable that is widely grown for its sweet and vibrant stems for culinary purposes. Part of the Polygonaceae family, rhubarb is thought to originate from Siberia and China, which is why it can sometimes struggle when grown in our very different climates.1 One of the most common issues gardeners can experience when growing rhubarb is the production of thin, rather than thick stalks, which can be caused by a number of factors: A lack of nutrients from the soil. If the plant is young or immature. Older plants that need to be divided. From being harvested incorrectly. The stems flowering and going to stem. We explain each of these reasons with solutions down below. 1) A Lack Of Nutrients Rhubarb plants are hungry feeders, so if they are not given the correct nutrients they may fail to thrive – and ultimately produce thin stalks. In autumn or early spring, a general-purpose fertiliser or mulch of well-rotted manure or organic matter can be applied thickly around the crown of the plant, which will give it a boost for the growing season ahead. Rhubarb prefers moist, but free-draining soil and will struggle if grown in compacted soil prone to waterlogging. 2) The Plant Is Immature Newly planted rhubarb may produce weak and thin growth early on and should not be harvested until they are suitably established and able to handle being picked from. To encourage a strong and vigorous plant for many years to come, it is advisable to leave new plants or divisions to settle and bulk up for at least 2 years before taking a harvest. 3) It Needs Dividing Rhubarb plants are generally tough and can live in excess of 10 years. However, over time they may become congested and produce weak stems, which is an indication that they should be divided. It is generally recommended that rhubarb plants are divided every 4-5 years to replace older specimens and maintain plant health. 4) Harvesting Incorrectly When rhubarb stalks are harvested can also have a bearing on the stem thickness and size, as over-harvesting can weaken the plant and subsequent crop. Harvesting stems from established plants can generally be performed from early spring until early summer. Although it might be tempting, cropping after June should be avoided to encourage a healthy harvest in the following years. 5) Flowering & Going To Seed Although unusual, rhubarb plants can produce flowering stalks during the summer months which need to be swiftly removed. These flowering stems, if given time, will go to seed and use up the plant’s precious energy, causing it to weaken and potentially produce a poor future harvest. To remove the flowers, simply cut the flowering stems at the base with a clean and sharp knife. References 1. Rhubarb (Rheum species): the role of Edinburgh in its cultivation and development. (2017). Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.rcpe.ac.uk/sites/default/files/jrcpe_47_1_lee.pdf
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'Get The Balance Right With Rhubarb' - Dan Ori On Yellowing Leaves And Their Causes
IN THIS GUIDE Nutrient Deficiencies Waterlogged Soil Temperature Watering Rhubarb is a hardy perennial vegetable that is commonly grown for its delicious and vibrant stems. However, even though it is generally easy to grow and care for, gardeners can face some challenges when growing it as it is not native to the UK. One of the most common problems gardeners can experience when growing rhubarb is yellow leaves. This article will consider the possible causes of why rhubarb leaves turn yellow, what can be done to prevent this and any remedial action that can be taken. Nutrient Deficiencies Rhubarb plants are hungry feeders and yellowing leaves can sometimes suggest a lack of nutrients and minerals in the soil necessary for it to thrive. A thick annual mulch of organic matter or well-rotted manure applied in early spring is highly recommended, especially when growing rhubarb on poor soils, as well as an application of a general-purpose fertiliser. However, it is important to note that when applying a layer of mulch, you need to be careful not to cover the crown of the plant, as this can lead to crown rot and more serious issues. Waterlogged Soil Rhubarb grows best on moist but free-draining soil and will struggle if grown on a compacted site or an area that is prone to waterlogged soil, which can potentially lead to foliage yellowing. “The trick is to get the balance right with Rhubarb,” says Horticulturist Dan Ori. “It needs moist soil to crop well but it doesn’t do well in waterlogged soil, as the crown will often rot.” If your garden has compacted soil, it can be made workable and suitable for growing rhubarb by digging it over and adding organic matter such as homemade compost or well-rotted manure. It is worth noting that rhubarb can also grow well in a large pot or container as not only can the growing medium be mixed to suit the plant, but it can be moved into the best spot for it to grow. With regards to the aspect of where to grow rhubarb, it prefers a sheltered and south-facing site that will receive full sun. Rhubarb can be grown in partial shade, although may struggle if it does not receive enough direct light. Temperature Rhubarb is a hardy plant with a rating of H5, indicating that it can withstand winter temperatures down to as low as -10-15°C. Rhubarb originates from colder climates and actually requires a cold period of temperatures around 0°C for a couple of months in order to produce healthy foliage and stems the following season. Although low enough winter temperatures are unlikely to be a problem for most parts of the UK, it is worth noting that this may be an issue for much milder and coastal regions. Watering Yellowing leaves and wilting can often be an early sign of either over or under-watering rhubarb. Rhubarb requires moist but not overly wet soil and thorough watering of the roots during hot and dry spells is advised, as underwatering can lead to reduced and even a complete halt of all growth. However, overwatering can also be harmful as it can lead to crown rot and waterlogged soil. As a general rule, it is recommended to allow the top 2-4cm of soil to dry out before watering again and to avoid watering if the soil is already damp.
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7 Companion Plants To Grow With Rhubarb That Are Mutually Beneficial
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Strawberries 2) Garlic 3) Beetroot 4) Brassicas 5) Beans 6) Sage 7) Asparagus References While it might technically be classed as a vegetable, the sweetness of rhubarb stalks make it a delicious ingredient in pies, preserves and other saccharine dishes.1 It’s no surprise then that it’s a common sight in vegetable patches around the country. Although it’s perfectly acceptable to grow rhubarb alone, you might find it beneficial to partner it with one or more companion plants. That’s because they can offer symbiotic advantages to one another, including pest deterrence, pollinator attraction, soil improvement and growth stimulation. With that in mind, here’s a rundown of some of the 7 best companion plants to position alongside your rhubarb specimens to ensure mutual benefits for both. 1) Strawberries Strawberries and rhubarb don’t just go well together in your favourite sweet pie recipe – they’re also bosom buddies in the vegetable patch, too. That’s because the former help to provide ground cover and deter weed growth, while the latter offers shade from the strongest rays of the sun. They can be harvested at more or less the same time too, simplifying the whole process. 2) Garlic The leaves of rhubarb plants are positively adored by leaf beetles and their large surface area makes them a beacon to these dangerous critters, who also feed on their stems. The high sulphur content found in garlic can keep the beetles and other unwanted pests, such as weevils and ants, from compromising the health of your plant and stealing your stems.2 3) Beetroot On the one hand, the complimentary red-and-green colouring of beetroot and rhubarb is an attractive combination in the garden itself. However, it’s not just a marriage based on cosmetic appeal, as rhubarb provides much-needed shade for the beetroot plants below. 4) Brassicas This is one arrangement where the rhubarb is doing all the heavy lifting. Smaller varieties of these leafy greens (such as baby kale or kohlrabi) can shelter from the sun under rhubarb’s ample foliage. 5) Beans The bean and rhubarb combo is a perfect example of Mother Nature working in harmony. Beans can help to elevate levels of nitrogen in the soil, which is superb news for rhubarb since they require a lot of nutrients.3 6) Sage Sage is a helpful herb to plant alongside your rhubarb patch for a couple of different reasons. For starters, its fragrant blooms will draw the attention of pollinators, as well as attract predatory insects which are beneficial in wiping out unwanted infestations of parasitical ones. Meanwhile, the long roots of sage can break up the soil and aerate it, stimulating rhubarb growth. 7) Asparagus Like sage, asparagus also likes to ‘stretch its legs’ in the soil and its long roots can help to improve circulation and encourage root movement in terrain that has become compacted, heavy or waterlogged.4 What’s more, both are perennials which can be harvested around the same time, meaning they’re a great low-maintenance double act. References 1. Team, G. F. (n.d.). Rhubarb. BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/rhubarb-glossary 2. Plata-Rueda, A., Martínez, L., Santos, M. H. D., Wilcken, C. F., Soares, M. A., Serrão, J. E., & Zanuncio, J. C. (2017). Insecticidal activity of garlic essential oil and their constituents against the mealworm beetle, Tenebrio molitor Linnaeus (Coleoptera: Tenebrionidae). Scientific Reports, 7(1). https://doi.org/10.1038/srep46406 3. UK’s first measurements of nitrogen added by legumes to a crop production system. (n.d.). The James Hutton Institute. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.hutton.ac.uk/news/uk%E2%80%99s-first-measurements-nitrogen-added-legumes-crop-production-system 4. Growing Vegetables: Asparagus . (2021, December 7). University of New Hampshire. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://extension.unh.edu/resource/growing-vegetables-asparagus-fact-sheet
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F. japonica Pruning Guidelines - Useful For Maintenance, Reducing Size Or Creating Space
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Fatsia Japonica? When To Prune Fatsia How To Prune Fatsia Maintenance Pruning Pruning To Reduce Size Pruning As A Multi-Stemmed Tree Pruning To Create Space Pruning In Late Summer Fatsia japonica is an interesting plant to consider if you are looking to create a lush, tropical jungle-like look in your garden. It is H5 hardy so can withstand cold weather across most of the British Isles even during extreme winters. It can be very easy to care for, thriving with surprisingly little care and pruning. Fatsia japonica is pruned in the same way regardless of whether it is being grown indoors, or outside in the garden. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife, pruning saw, goggles, gardening gloves When To Prune Spring (or after flowering) Why Prune Fatsia Japonica? When pruning F. japonica, I find that one of the most important things is to determine your goals. You need to decide what you are trying to achieve with the pruning in order to work out the best times to prune and the correct methods to use. You might prune F. japonica: For simple maintenance and to keep it in good health. To reduce or restrict the growth of the plant, especially if growing in a container. To create a multi-stemmed tree type rather than a shrub. To remove lower branches and leaves for the benefit of plants growing in lower layers of lush planting. To give the plants a tidy-up towards the end of the summer. When To Prune Fatsia Maintenance pruning on F. japonica is typically best carried out in mid-spring, just before the season of new growth begins. At this time, you can also carry out more extensive pruning, depending on whether you wish to grow this as a bushy shrub, or train it into a small, multi-stemmed tree. You may wish to remove some lower branches for aesthetic reasons and to allow more light to reach the lower tiers of ground cover plants below. If you wish to keep the size of the plant in check then you can also consider undertaking a second pruning towards the end of the summer, though this is by no means essential. Late summer pruning does carry its risks, and it is important not to leave it too late since you need any cuts to heal well before cold weather arrives. If you are training F. japonica as a small tree, then this second pruning is typically not required. However, for aesthetic reasons, you may wish to remove any yellow leaves at this time to keep things looking neat. How To Prune Fatsia The actual process of pruning F. japonica is relatively easy and straightforward. The tools you will require will depend on the size of the specimen. For smaller Fatsia, you will generally only need some pruning shears, but for larger and woodier plants, you may well also need a pruning saw to cut through larger branches. To undertake this job, you will also need gardening gloves and goggles. It is important to make sure that your pruning tools are clean and sterile, and sharp, to prevent the spread of disease, and any damage to the plant. Maintenance Pruning To undertake general maintenance pruning, the first step is to take a good look at the Fatsia plant. Identify any dead, damaged or diseased leaves or branches and do not be afraid to cut these back hard, right to the main stem or to the base. If there seems to be congestion, with lots of stems too close together that are rubbing or crossing, cut out older stems from the centre of the plant to maintain good airflow and to make sure that the plant remains healthy. These older stems can also be cut back to ground level if required. Pruning To Reduce Size When growing in a restricted space, or in a container, you may need to cut back to reduce or maintain the size of your existing plant. You can cut back globally around the whole of the plant by as much as is required to maintain or reduce the size of the plant, allowing for the season of growth to come. If you wish for your Fatsia to continue to grow in size, then of course this type of pruning is not required, but as mentioned above, F. japonica can tolerate being cut back quite hard if needed. “If you want to maximise the amount of plants in a space then pruning your Fatsia japonica is a good option, as it allows you to plant under and around it to create attractive layered combinations,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. Just try to maintain the overall shape of the shrub and look at the plant aesthetically as you make any cuts. Pruning As A Multi-Stemmed Tree If you would like to grow a F. japonica as a multi-stemmed tree, then a little training pruning may be required. By selectively pruning out certain branches, you can coax the plant into the mature shape that you desire, with barer trunks lower down and more foliage towards the top. Select the stems that you would like to make into the main framework, then selectively prune out branches around these to the main stems or the ground to obtain the form you desire. Pruning To Create Space Whether in shrub or tree form, F. japonica can also be selectively pruned with an eye for allowing more light and air for planting below. F. japonica looks great in a lush, dense, jungle-like planting scheme with layered planting. By selectively pruning lower leaves and stems, you can open up the space for lower tiers of planting and keep your garden as beautiful and biodiverse as possible. Pruning In Late Summer Those who are pruning to keep the size of a F. japonica in check may sometimes find that they need to undertake a second pruning. This involves reducing the size of the plant once more after new growth, towards the end of the summer. Remember, however, that this is not typically required and can have its risks because the cuts to the plant may not have the time to heal properly before cold weather arrives if you leave it too late. It is generally best in late summer to simply remove any yellow leaves to keep the plant looking neat, though this is optional. These tips for pruning F. japonica should help you keep your plant healthy and looking as you wish it to look. Fortunately, not much of this pruning is really essential, and these plants are quite forgiving even if you’re not overly experienced with this gardening job.
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Experts Advise To Choose A Large And Heavy Container For Potted Forsythia
IN THIS GUIDE Is Forsythia Suited To Growing In Pots? Choosing Containers Choosing Compost Potting Up Forsythia Potted Forsythia Care Forsythias are cheerful yellow-flowered shrubs that are popular in many UK gardens. They are favoured by those looking for a splash of vibrant colour in the spring for hedging and for borders. However, can you also grow forsythia in pots? Is Forsythia Suited To Growing In Pots? Forsythias are typically vigorous and tall, reaching around 2m in height if left unpruned. They can, however, be pruned to restrict their size and to create hedging. If you would like to grow forsythia in pots, you will be able to do so, however, for the best results, it would be wise to opt for a smaller cultivar. “For shrubs like Forsythia in pots, even smaller cultivars, make sure you pot into the largest pot size that you can accommodate for the size of the shrub (remembering to pot-on as the plant grows rather than straight into a large pot),” shares Colin Shelly, a Master Horticulturist. Forsythia Bonsai “This will provide the highest possible level of nutrients and a moisture-holding capacity, which will be key in hot weather.” Options like F. x intermedia ‘Minigold’ and F. ‘Fiesta’ are smaller varieties that can work well in containers. The former grows to around 60cm in height, and the latter to around 1m. These are fairly hardy and tolerant shrubs that can work well in a range of settings and when provided with the right care they can certainly do well in containers. Choosing Containers When choosing a container for forsythia varieties, remember that even smaller cultivars will grow into moderately sized shrubs, and any pot or container that you choose should be large and heavy enough to accommodate a shrub that is destined to grow large over time. Choose a container that is just a little larger than the root ball of the plant that you have purchased, then pot up as required as the specimen grows. Choosing Compost Forsythia is not particularly fussy when it comes to the growing medium. It can thrive in a range of different soils when grown in the ground and that soil can have a wide range of different pH levels. When growing this shrub in containers, you can use any peat-free loam-based or soil-based compost or potting mix. You can purchase a commercial peat-free compost, or make your own homemade mix from soil, loam or leaf mould. When buying or making your potting mix, just keep in mind that forsythias prefer a moist yet free-draining medium, so incorporating a little grit into the mix could also be beneficial to avoid any potential issues with waterlogged soil. Potting Up Forsythia You can pot up a forsythia you have purchased at any time, but the best times to re-pot and plant forsythias are in spring or autumn when the conditions are relatively cool and the plant may have an easier time of establishment. Place a little of the compost or growing medium in the base of the new container, then place the plant into it and fill in more around the sides. Make sure that the forsythia sits at the same depth within this pot as it did in its previous one so that the compost or growing medium comes up to the same level on the plant. Once you have placed the plant in the container, firm the soil in gently around the roots, to fill in any air pockets. Take care not to compress the medium too much as this may lead to issues with compaction and water might fail to drain freely. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Typically, you will grow only one forsythia per pot or container, since even the smaller cultivars will take up quite a lot of space. However, this does not stop you from choosing a container large enough to accommodate a small forsythia shrub with a few other plants around the sides. Primrose For example, you might surround a small forsythia in a large container or planter with trailing winter evergreens like ivy, primulas, and smaller spring bulbs, like crocuses and Muscari, which bloom around the same time and will create a beautiful spring display. Potted Forsythia Care Caring for forsythias in containers will take a little more work than when growing them in the ground. However, as long as you make the right decisions about the container and fill it correctly, place it in the right location and care for it correctly as described below, you should still find it a relatively easy and trouble-free option for your container garden. Light & Exposure Place your container-grown forsythia in a sunny or lightly shaded spot. Note that the shrubs will flower best in a sunny position, so are best grown in full sun even though they can tolerate light or dappled shade. These hardy plants can be a good choice even for a colder and more exposed location. Watering & Fertilising Water container-grown forsythia well, especially during dry spells in spring and summer. Remember that plants grown in containers will dry out more quickly and require more frequent watering than those growing in the ground. When watering, it is best to give the plant a thorough soaking less frequently rather than providing water little and often. Forsythia typically doesn’t require additional fertilisation. However, if the growth seems poor, you can feed with a general-purpose organic plant feed in spring. Pruning You should prune well-established forsythias in mid-spring immediately after flowering. However, small cultivars suited to container growing rarely require any pruning at all. Forsythias are robust shrubs that tend to be mostly trouble-free so they can be a great shrub to grow, even if you only have the space or opportunity for container-grown varieties.
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Prune Forsythia In Spring Say Gardeners, Immediately After They've Finished Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Forsythia Pruning Young Shrubs Pruning Mature Stand-Alone Shrubs Hard Pruning Pruning Wall-Trained Types Pruning A Forsythia Hedge Forsythias can be remarkably easy and trouble-free plants to grow, and their yellow flowers in spring are not only attractive to us but also to pollinators early in the year when there may not be much else in bloom. The forsythia in my garden attracts pollinators, ensuring that there are plenty around when, soon after the forsythia has flowered, the fruit tree blossom emerges. Alongside a flowering currant, this shrub is beneficial for my wildlife-friendly and productive space, as well as looking very cheerful early in the year. Forsythia can largely look after itself once established, but though I am an advocate for minimal pruning with many plants, forsythia is one plant that really will thrive under a good pruning regime. So, let’s take a look at how to prune forsythia shrubs. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife When To Prune Spring When To Prune Forsythia Forsythia should be pruned in spring, immediately after they have finished flowering. Pruning any later can reduce flowering or even lead to a lack of flowering the following year. The only time when forsythia might be pruned at a different time is when hard pruning is being carried out to renovate an overgrown or unattractive forsythia that has been neglected over previous years. In this case, hard pruning should be undertaken between autumn and early spring, during the dormant period. Pruning Young Shrubs When plants are young and newly placed in a garden, you should typically simply let the plant develop and grow with only minimal intervention. However, it is still a good idea to give the plant a quick look in spring, and to remove any dead, damaged or diseased material, and perhaps any shoots that are poorly positioned. Small dwarf cultivars of forsythia are also best pruned minimally in the same way as all young shrubs of this genus throughout their lives. They won’t typically require as much pruning as taller types and won’t grow as quickly or vigorously as most shrubs in this genus. Pruning Mature Stand-Alone Shrubs Once forsythias become more mature, getting into the habit of pruning annually each spring is a good idea. You should first cut back the growth that has flowered to vigorous shoots lying lower down on the plant – ideally shoots that face upwards and to the outside of the shrub. Then, you should also consider removing up to 20% of the oldest stems down to the ground. This will encourage new, vigorous and healthy growth to emerge. It is also a good idea to thin out the centre of the plant by removing some stems to reduce congestion and, at the same time, to remove any weak growth. By removing weak stems, you can help the plant focus on its healthiest portions and branches, and also increase airflow through the plant – and further help to avoid overcrowding. Hard Pruning If you have been neglecting a forsythia in your garden, or have inherited one from a previous occupant, hard pruning may make it possible to recover a shrub that has become leggy, misshapen, too large or bare and poorly flowering. “Once a Forsythia bush consists mainly of older wood, it will begin to produce more flowers,” Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains. “This is the main reason I come across poorly flowering Forstyhia. The aim is to have a balance of older and newer stems to ensure that there are always floriferous stems in the wings. “Once that cycle is broken, the only option is to prune back hard and start again with regular annual pruning to get the branch age balance back.” If you do decide to carry out this type of pruning to renovate a mature shrub, then it is best to undertake this work during the dormant period between autumn and early spring. This hard pruning involves cutting down all stems almost to the ground and, of course, will result in the loss of flowers the following spring. However, if you mulch well with organic matter and water well after this treatment, new, healthy growth should replace the old growth that was removed, leading to an improvement in the appearance and flowering of the plant. You can undertake this type of pruning all at once or retain some old growth and flowers and cut back only some of the older growth in the first year – completing the hard pruning for renovation in the second year. Pruning Wall-Trained Types With wall-trained forsythia, natural growth is curtailed and the plant is trained and tied into horizontal wires or a trellis to grow vertically flat against a wall or fence. Immediately after flowering, cut back the flowering stems to leave just 1-2 buds before the main framework branches of the plant. If one of the framework branches does not flower well, then you may also wish to cut this out entirely and select and retain younger shoots to use as replacements for this older wood. These new shoots can be tied into the framework to fill in gaps. Pruning A Forsythia Hedge When pruning a forsythia hedge, the steps will be the same as for a mature stand-alone shrub. There will be just one added consideration, and that is pruning to maintain the shape and size of the hedge. As with stand-alone mature forsythia, you should first cut back flowered growth to vigorous shoots lower down that face upwards and to the outside of the shrub. Just remember as you do so that your aim is to restore the neat outline of the hedge. Then, you should also consider removing up to 20% of the oldest stems down to the ground. Again, remember, this will encourage new, vigorous and healthy growth to emerge. As you can see from the above, how precisely you will prune forsythia will depend on its age and the style or situation in which it is grown. However, once you have familiarised yourself with the requirements of annual pruning for this genus, you should find pruning forsythia to be a fairly quick and straightforward job each year.
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Prune Euonymus In Late Winter Or Early Spring, Following These Guidelines From Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Pruning Deciduous Types Pruning Evergreen Types 1) Maintenance Pruning 2) Pruning For Hedging Or Topiary Forms 3) Renovation Pruning Euonymus can be deciduous or evergreen shrubs and are extremely useful for bringing year-round interest in the garden, with many varieties suited to different uses in a garden, from hedging to wall or ground cover. Euonymus can be pretty low-maintenance plants, especially once established. As long as you choose the right option and grow it in the right location, you should find that it takes little care. Euonymus (AKA ‘Spindles’) are generally quite slow-growing and well-formed; neither deciduous nor evergreen types necessarily have to be pruned at all. However, many gardeners will prefer to keep their gardens looking good with a little light pruning, and when evergreen types are grown in hedges or topiary forms, then they will be pruned more frequently to be kept under control. Evergreen euonymus can also be pruned more severely in order to renovate a shrub that no longer looks its best to spur it into plenty of new growth. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife When To Prune Late winter to early spring When To Prune If you are pruning a euonymus shrub, then the best time to do so is typically in late winter or early spring. With flowering types that bloom in spring, pruning is often carried out immediately after flowering. When deciding when to prune a specific euonymus, it is always best to think about what you wish to achieve. Maintenance pruning (removing dead or damaged material and giving the plant a general light tidy) is undertaken in late winter or early spring. A hedge or other more shaped and formal shrub might additionally be pruned in summer. With most euonymus, however, it is best not to prune too late in the season as this can lead to the damage of new growth by winter frosts. Pruning Deciduous Types Deciduous types of euonymus, like European spindle and E. alata, do not usually require much, if any, pruning at all. These shrubs stand-alone with well-shaped form and are fairly well-behaved amid other shrubs and other plantings in a bed or border. Though these shrubs can also be used in hedging, like the evergreen types below, they are typically looser and used in more informal hedgerows that are left in a wilder and more naturalistic form. So, if any pruning is carried out, this is typically restricted to cutting out any dead or damaged material, and perhaps any branches that are growing in the wrong direction here and there. Pruning Evergreen Types Evergreen euonymus, like E. fortunei and E. japonicus, are also often best left to grow fairly naturally without too much shaping, as they often retain a pleasing form. Some, of course, grow much larger and taller than others, so it is important to choose a plant that suits the size of the space available. However, there are three types of pruning that might be undertaken, depending on your specific wants and needs: Maintenance pruning Hedge or topiary shaping Renovation pruning 1) Maintenance Pruning Typically, in a more naturalistic scheme, you will simply need to prune out any dead, damaged or unsightly material in late winter or early spring. This is not always required, but you may also give the plant a light trim all over to encourage bushiness and new growth each year. You can also trim lightly to restrict the size of the plant or to give it a less lopsided appearance if it has become a little uneven. 2) Pruning For Hedging Or Topiary Forms If you are pruning euonymus to retain the shape of a hedge or topiary form, then pruning will typically have to be more precise. With a loose and informal hedgerow, pruning will not really be necessary, other than perhaps a light trim here and there to retain the shape. However, with a neat, formal hedge or topiary form, more neat and accurate pruning for shaping and restricting growth will typically be required. In addition to a light prune in late winter or early spring, you might also wish to undertake a further trim in the summer months. It is best to use a pair of secateurs or loppers rather than hedge trimmers to keep a formal euonymus hedge looking its best. “With evergreen larger leaved shrubs, cutting with hedge trimmers will cut across leaves leaving unsightly browning or die back,” says Colin Skelly, Professional Horticulturist. “Instead, cut back to where the leaf joins a stem or a stem joins a branch. This will leave a neater shrub but avoid unsightly leaf cuts.” 3) Renovation Pruning While hard pruning is not typically required for spindle plants, every now and then it may be beneficial to cut back euonymus shrubs much harder, to improve the appearance and vigour of a mature shrub or ageing hedge. Evergreen euonymus can be cut right back by 30-50% in order to establish a lush and bushy form without gaps or wood-showing sections. While it will take a little time for the plant to return to its former glory, it will typically look better once it does. Just note that this more drastic pruning is not suitable for all euonymus types, so make sure you are aware of the characteristics of the specific euonymus you are growing before you take the decision to dramatically renovate your shrub or hedge.
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