Growing
Slow Growing Mulberry Trees Are Well Worth The Effort - Here's How To Grow Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Mulberries Planting Mulberry Plant Care Harvesting References Mulberry trees are an interesting fruit tree to consider if you are looking for something beyond the ordinary apples, plums, cherries and pears commonly grown in UK gardens. “I love mulberry trees,” Humaira Ikram, a Garden Designer, simply states. “At the moment my mulberry is fruiting so I stand under it every day and pick the berries straight off. They don’t make it to the kitchen. For me, it gives me so much pleasure that I can go out into my garden and do that.” Mulberries are not a fruit that many of us have had the opportunity to try. They are fragile and difficult to process and transport so are not really grown commercially. You will have to have some patience if you would like to grow them in your own garden since from the time of planting, they can take 8-9 years or longer to bear fruit – even in an ideal location. However, these are beautiful trees, and the rewards are well worth the effort once they do finally arrive. This is a slow-growing tree which is very ornamental, so even before its fruits appear it can still be a valuable addition to a garden. Overview Botanical Name Morus nigra Common Name(s) Black Mulberry Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Inconspicuous When To Plant November-March Harvesting Months August-September When To Prune November-December “I plant Mulberries every bit as much as ornamentals as for their fruit,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I’m particularly taken with training them as a flat canopy over an outdoor patio area where they can provide summer shade. “The particular species for this is not Black Mulberry but Morus alba ‘Platanifolia’, a fruitless Mulberry (essential for not staining what’s underneath them).” Morus nigra, the ‘Black Mulberry’, hails from southwestern Asia and the Iberian peninsula, though it has been cultivated for so long in these regions that its precise original range remains obscure.1 It is a deciduous tree, which can ultimately grow up to around 12m tall and 15m wide. More commonly, however, it is much smaller, and even shrub-like here in the UK. These trees bear edible fruit, compound clusters of several small droops which are deep purple, almost black in hue when fully ripe. These berries have a delicious, slightly tart flavour, yet they can be eaten raw, as well as cooked and used in a range of recipes or in preserves.2 Morus nigra should not be confused with other Morus species, such as the white mulberry and the red mulberry – M. alba and M. rubra respectively. M. alba is somewhat less hardy than M. nigra and the fruits are said to be inferior, though this can also be an attractive tree for gardeners. M. rubra, the American mulberry, is not commonly grown here. Common Varieties There are a number of named cultivars of black mulberry to consider growing in the UK including these most popular: M. nigra ‘Black Beauty’ M. nigra ‘King James’ M. nigra ‘Jerusalem’ M. nigra ‘Kaester’ M. nigra ‘Wellington’ How To Grow Mulberries Mulberries are usually purchased as bare-root plants and planted over the dormant period. Care must be taken since mulberry roots are brittle and do not always take well to transplantation. If you know an existing mulberry tree, cuttings can also be taken as a means of growing a new tree in your garden. Propagation Hardwood cuttings can be taken in the autumn and placed into pots of a free-draining yet moist growing medium, with a cloche (e.g. plastic bottle) over the top to conserve transpiration. Not all cuttings of M. nigra will be successful, so taking multiple cuttings will improve the chances of success. Dipping roots in cinnamon or honey (natural fungicides), and using willow water or other rooting hormones can improve your chances of rooting successfully. Keep the cuttings covered, gradually increasing airflow, and keep them out of direct sunlight. One other old method for rooting M. nigra involves laying a 2-3ft long dormant cutting in a shallow trench. Cover all but the tip (5-10cm) with soil. Black mulberry is the most difficult mulberry to propagate from hardwood cuttings, but you may have success if you try one of these techniques. The other option is to take softwood or semi-ripe cuttings in summer, when stems are still mostly green. Take new green growth, use rooting hormone to improve results if desired, cover with a cloche, and pot up to grow on in a sheltered spot. Green cuttings tend to root more easily and should be well-rooted within a month or two. Planting Mulberry trees work well in a sunny and sheltered spot, either in the middle of a sheltered area or against a south-facing wall. The care requirements below will help you determine whether you have a suitable spot in your garden, and where exactly to place a mulberry tree within your space. Mulberry Plant Care Mulberry trees will not suit all UK gardens. These trees fruit well in the south and south-west but they need the protection of a wall further north for the fruit to ripen successfully. That said, they are hardy throughout much of the UK, and can theoretically fruit further north when grown in a suitable warm and protected spot. Preferred Aspect Mulberries need a sheltered site in full sun. Although east or west-facing aspects can be suitable, a south-facing aspect is ideal. Temperature & Climate Morus nigra trees are H6 hardy, meaning they are able to make it through the winter even when temperatures are between -15-20°C. However, it is important that the trees have shelter from dry, cold winds, and as much warmth as possible during the summer for fruits to ripen. Soil Requirements Mulberry trees can grow in a range of different soil types and pH is not important, as long as the soil is fertile and rich in organic matter. The soil must be moist yet free-draining as waterlogged soil will cause issues. If growing in a container, choose a good loam-based growing medium like John Innes No 2 or equivalent. Watering Mulberry trees should be watered well upon planting and during dry periods in their first year of growth. After this, natural rainfall will usually be sufficient for plants growing in the ground. Container-grown plants should continue to be watered regularly during any dry spells. Pollination Mulberry trees are self-fertile, so you will only need to plant one tree for fruit to be produced. Fertilising In early spring, it is a good idea to feed a mulberry tree with a high-potassium general organic fertiliser, sprinkling this on the ground around the tree. Mulching A good quality organic mulch should also be applied around a mulberry tree upon planting and refreshed each spring. I apply a mulch of homemade compost (enriched with well-rotted chicken manure) in spring, and also mulch with comfrey leaves around my mulberry tree in the summer. This mulch provides slow-release fertility and also helps with moisture conservation and weed suppression. Pruning Mulberries should always be pruned during the dormant period, as they are prone to bleeding sap from cut surfaces. The ideal time to prune is around a month after the leaves fall. Firstly, prune to remove any damaged branches or badly placed branches which rub together. Aim to create a framework of branches for an open canopy. Mulberry trees are pruned differently if they are standard or half-standard, bush or espaliered forms. To train as a bush, cut down the leader to around 1.5m in winter, just above some strong side shoots. Aim to develop a framework of around 8-10 branches. After this, only minimal pruning will be required. You can also train mulberries as espalier trees, so they grow flat against a wall. Common Problems Mulberries can often be hassle-free, but can be troubled by a number of pests and diseases. Fungal diseases such as mildew can often cause problems. Ensuring good airflow helps reduce the chances of such problems taking hold. Pest control is best managed holistically. Like other fruit trees, mulberries will benefit from companion planting and the creation of a guild of beneficial plants that will aid its growth and help in pest control. Container Growing As mentioned above, mulberries can be grown as patio trees in large pots or containers. Fill with a loam-based growing medium that is moist but free-draining. Make sure water can drain freely from the container and water well during dry spells. Remember that container-grown plants require more watering than those grown in the ground. Harvesting Mulberries, once the tree starts to fruit, will turn red in around July before ripening to black in August or September. Mulberries are gathered by placing a sheet on the ground below the tree and giving branches a shake. Then, simply gather up the fruits and be prepared to eat or preserve them as soon as possible. References 1. Datiles, M. J., & Acevedo-Rodríguez, P. (2015). Morus nigra (black mulberry). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.34830 2. Morus nigra Black Mulberry. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=Morus+nigra
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Growing Mexican Feather Grass: The Perfect Plant To Add Texture To A Border Edge
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Mexican Feather Grass Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems References Ornamental grasses can be great additions to prairie planting, flower borders, or containers. And Mexican Feathergrass is one of many great options to consider. “I like grasses in a garden because there is a lot of movement in them,” shares Garden Designer Peter Reader. “They also add a lot of texture as you can see through them, so I like to play around with them as an ornamental in a garden.” Mexican feathergrass: Stipa tenuissima, or Nassella tenuissima as it is now officially known, is a grass native to the southwest of the United States, northern Mexico and Argentina.1 “This grass is well proportioned for use as an edge to a border when given room to gently spill over the side,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “It is surely one of the softest and most tactile plants you could ever grow.” Overview Botanical Name Nassella tenuissima / Stipa tenuissima Common Name(s) Mexican Feather Grass Plant Type Perennial Grass Native Area Central and South America Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Semi-evergreen Flowers Feathery flowering panicles When To Plant March-September When To Prune March In the UK, it is one of the most popular ornamental grasses. It is not really considered to be an invasive problem here like it is in other parts of the world, but it can still self-seed and pop up in other areas of your garden. This is a semi-evergreen perennial grass, which takes its name from the feather-like fronds of seed heads which form above the foliage in summer. Starting as upright clumps of silvery green grass, the plant turns a beautiful brownish beige in late summer. How To Grow Mexican Feather Grass Plant out either self-sown plants, plug plants or larger pot-grown specimens into their final growing positions any time from March to the end of summer. Place plants in a spot with full sun, in a well-drained soil or potting medium. Simply create a planting hole large enough to accommodate the roots, pop the plant into the hole, firm it in and then water it well. If you have heavy soil, it can be useful to amend it by adding a handful of sand or horticultural grit to the base of your planting hole. If you plan to keep your Mexican feather grass in a container, make sure that the pot you select has good drainage, and that water can drain away freely from the base. Fill it with a peat-free potting mix, with added grit to improve drainage. Growing From Seed While many gardeners will choose to purchase and plant out plugs or larger clumps of pot-grown Mexican feather grass, which can be purchased from garden centres and plant nurseries in spring and summer, it is also possible to grow this plant from seed. Seeds are sown in March or April in a cold frame. Seeds can be sown together in pots and planted out as clumps, or pricked out into individual pots and grown out to create more plants. Either strategy can work well, and even individual blades should quickly establish and grow into clumps in the right setting. Ongoing Plant Care Caring for this ornamental grass is very easy and straightforward, making it a great choice for a low-maintenance space as long as the environmental conditions are right. This plant is unfussy about soil type or pH, as long as waterlogging does not occur. Once established, it is drought tolerant and feeding is not required. This plant does best in poorer soils, as soil that is too rich can encourage floppiness. Overwintering Stipa tenuissima is hardy throughout much of the UK, coping with winter temperatures between -5 and -10°C. Aspect This grass can be placed in many different positions around a garden and will thrive in any aspect as long as it receives plenty of sun. Pruning Unlike deciduous ornamental grasses, this grass is semi-evergreen, so it does not need to be cut back late in the winter as you would do with deciduous types. Instead, in spring, comb through with gloved hands or use a rake to get rid of older foliage and seed heads. You should find that this is just like combing hair, and the dead growth should come away freely. If the plant is looking messy or the grass has become drenched in a deluge, you can also cut it back hard towards the end of spring or early summer. New foliage will soon emerge. Propagating As mentioned above, this is a plant which can gently self-seed. This is not usually an issue, however, and plants that pop up in unwanted positions are fairly easy to remove, replant or give away. Another option is simply to divide existing clumps. The best time for division is between the middle of spring and early summer. “Dividing or lifting off-sets regularly can keep it as a slender hedge and this way I find plants generally reach a maximum height of around 50cm,” adds Peter. Companion Planting S. tenuissima works very well with herbaceous perennials and other ornamental grasses in a border, bed or container. Some flowering plants to consider planting alongside this grass are: Achillea Agastache Alliums Asters Cosmos bipinnatus Echinacea purpurea Eryngium Helenium Knautia macedonica Penstemons Rudbeckia Salvias Sedums Verbenas Veronicastrum Common Problems This is a plant that is usually pest and disease free. Issues only occur due to waterlogged soil or damage due to heavy rainfall. As long as the drainage is good and the plant gets plenty of sun, there should not be many issues. Does Mexican Feather Grass Spread Quickly? Though it can self-seed, and pop up elsewhere in your garden, it is not considered to be a problem in UK gardens. Clumps spread fairly readily when in the right location and can be great for spreading to fill gaps in a bed or border. References 1. Plant Database. (n.d.). Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center – the University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=nate3
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Artful And Architectural - Acanthus ‘Bear's Breeches’ Pointers From Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Bear’s Breeches Where To Grow Acanthus Ongoing Plant Care References Named for the oversized hairy leaves which adorn its robust upright stems, Acanthus mollis is said to resemble the hirsute hind quarters of a friendly bear. Indeed, it’s often prized more for its foliage than its flowers, though they too are a sight to behold when in full bloom. “I love anything architectural, so if I can’t squeeze in a towering tree fern, then I’m likely to try and get some Acanthus mollis into all of my smaller planting designs,” shares Garden Designer Joe Carey. That’s because the blossoms come with their own hooded leaf bract, which provides a pleasing purple contrast to the pinkish-white petals beneath. Artfully arranged on the stem, they are irresistible to bees and will enhance the biodiversity of your garden wherever they’re placed. Regardless of the reasons for its popularity, there’s no denying that Bear’s Breeches are a common fixture in bold garden displays across Britain. They work especially well when given pride of place at the front of a border, or else to bring architectural intrigue to an arrangement. Overview Botanical Name Acanthus mollis Common Name(s) Bear’s Breech / Bear’s Breeches Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Tall spikes populated with white or pink flowers with purple hoods When To Plant April-May or September-October When To Prune March or September-October Acanthus mollis was a favourite cultivar in both Ancient Greece and its Roman counterpart, which is why it features in much art of both time periods.1 Most notably, it can be seen in abundance as decorative detailing atop Corinthian columns.2 For that reason, using it around your garden will effortlessly create a classical aesthetic for your display. It’s quite tall and showy, so it works best when it’s the centrepiece of a floral arrangement, or else grouped together in large clumps if you have the space available. What’s more, it also makes an excellent cut flower. Common Varieties Although there are 30 accepted species of A. mollis, a mere handful are commonly grown as garden plants and there isn’t a whole lot in the way of variation between them.3 Having said that, here are some of the more popular types in the UK: A. mollis ‘Whitewater’ Much like other types of bear’s breeches, ‘Whitewater’ is favoured for its intriguing foliage, striking blossoms and architectural prowess. However, it differs from its brethren in the white splashes found on its leaves, which are otherwise of deep green. A. ‘Summer Beauty’ This isn’t a true A. mollis, but rather a hybrid that is tall and imposing at full maturity. It bears giant, glossy but finely cut leaves that form expansive clumps, while the summer months yield beautiful white flowers in spikes, topped by the trademark purple bract. A. spinosus A close relative of Acanthus mollis, A. spinosus has the same classical frame but slight differences in its colourings. For starters, the leaves are of a more dramatic blue-green hue, while the hood above the white flowers is often of a slightly rustier tone than the standard purple. How To Grow Bear’s Breeches Bear’s breeches are most commonly bought from nurseries and garden centres for direct planting into the ground. They should be planted in spring or autumn to avoid excessive height or frozen terrain. It’s important to choose the site where you plant bear’s breeches wisely, since it’s very tricky to relocate it after the fact. Not only is it a sizeable specimen that’s unwieldy to dig up and move, but its roots penetrate deep beneath the earth and can be nearly impossible to eradicate completely. Leave any behind and they’ll develop into new plants in time. It’s also very possessive of space and will require a diameter of around 50cm on all sides to itself. It can be quite aggressive in pushing other plants out of the way, too, so many gardeners choose to plant it in bottomless containers to restrict the spread of its roots. Growing From Seed It is possible to cultivate bear’s breeches from seed, but they require plenty of time and warmth to germinate and establish themselves. For that reason, it’s best to begin them indoors and wait until their roots are developed. Soak the seeds in water for between 24-48 hours before planting to begin the germination process. Drain them and plant them immediately in a large pot at 1cm depth, covering them with loose soil and watering thoroughly. Once the roots have had time to establish, you can move your bear’s breeches outdoors. Of course, it is possible to plant them directly into the ground (this must be done in spring), but it’s trickier to ensure they germinate in the British climate. In any case, it will still take several years before they flower, regardless of how they are reared. Root Cuttings “You can propagate new plants successfully in autumn or spring from root cuttings or by slicing off an outer section of leaves with roots attached using a sharp spade,” advises Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “This is often easier than seed propagation or digging up the plant to divide due to its deep root structure. “I have found cuttings and divisions are more successful in the spring as this can avoid the cold wet winter conditions and the high potential of powdery mildew or slug/snail attack without being able to put on growth to offset the challenges. “Growing from seed is worth trying as you will most likely get flower colour variations – I would harvest seeds in the autumn and sow in the spring.” Where To Grow Acanthus Soil & Aspect As mentioned above, Bear’s Breeches work best when they’re grown as the star of the show. They do best in fertile soil with good drainage qualities and appreciate full sun or part shade. They have excellent drought resistance and it doesn’t matter too much where you plant them in terms of aspect or soil quality, as long as you make sure you’re happy for them to stay there indefinitely. With that said, “I always avoid planting in wet shade due to the plants’ dislike of the conditions and susceptibility to powdery mildew,” says Dan Ori. “In my opinion, Acanthus is one of the best plants you can use in a dry sunny herbaceous border.” Temperature With RHS hardiness ratings of H6 or more, this plant is more than capable of holding its own against the British winter. In fact, the colder temperatures in December, January and February are actually what prevents them from becoming invasive in many gardens. Ongoing Plant Care As resilient plants, bear’s breeches don’t require too much in the way of ongoing maintenance. Only minimal upkeep is needed, including the following: Light Bear’s breeches appreciate direct sunlight but don’t depend on it for their survival. For that reason, they’ll thrive impressively in part shade and even hold their own in full shade, though you might notice that blooms are not as impressive. Watering Acanthus is a thirsty plant and demands frequent watering. If neglected, it may wilt quite dramatically. Feeding & Fertilising Aside from enriching the initial hole in which bear’s breeches are planted with rotted manure or another organic fertiliser, they shouldn’t require feeding. Use a balanced fertiliser only if the plant shows signs of flagging. Common Problems Given that the foliage is the main selling point of bear’s breeches, protecting the leaves from slugs, snails and other critters is imperative. Equally, powdery mildew and bacterial leaf spot and other fungal diseases can be an issue. Avoid those problems with organic fungicides, salts and proper circulation of air. Pruning Stems should be cut back and disposed of after flowering, while foliage should be neatened up in springtime. Other than that, no pruning is needed unless the clumps start to become congested. Propagating Bear’s breeches can easily be propagated by digging the plant up, splitting its roots with a spade and planting cuttings in potting composts. Once established, they can be transplanted elsewhere in the garden. Just remember, however, that bear’s breeches do spread freely via the use of underground runners, so plant them in multiple positions in your garden at your peril. Companion Planting As alluded, bear’s britches are ostentatious plants which might detract from the splendour of others growing in the garden. For that reason, you might wish to make them a standalone centrepiece, or else pair them with shrubs, bushes or hedges that aren’t as showy. That being said, they can form part of a striking display alongside other bold and bright perennials. Crocosmia Airy options like crocosmia and gaura can create an audacious partnership with bear’s breeches that’s guaranteed to turn heads. References 1. Minissale, P., Magro, V., & Raimondo, F. (2019). Why did Acanthus mollis, native to West Mediterranean, become a so relevant artistic and symbolic element arising from ancient Greece? Flora Mediterranea, 29, 119–128. https://doi.org/10.7320/flmedit29.119 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998, July 20). Acanthus. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/art/acanthus-ornamental-motif 3. Acanthus L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:344-1
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Areca Palm Care - Getting The Right Light And Water Levels Is Crucial
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Areca Palm Areca Palm Care Common Problems If you’re looking for a palm to grow in a greenhouse or keep safely ensconced in your home, then the areca, or Dypsis lutescens, could be the one for you. While it turns out that some palms are more than happy to spend their lives outside, there are those, the Areca Palm included, that need to be sheltered from our relatively unforgiving weather. Overview Botanical Name Dypsis lutescens Common Name(s) Areca Palm / Bamboo Palm Plant Type Palm / Houseplant Native Area Madagascar Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Evergreen Flowers Yellow panicled flowers When To Plant Any time indoors When To Prune Any time indoors While Arecas can reach impressive heights of up to 8m at full maturity, buying one of this size can be prohibitively expensive. That’s why most areca palms bought as houseplants come in smaller sizes, leaving it up to you to nurture them to maturity. Compared to some other houseplants, an areca palm requires a little more attention. Give them the wrong amount of light or get the water levels wrong and there’s not much room for forgiveness – be warned of this if you’re only a casual or beginner houseplant owner! How To Grow Areca Palm You’ll be pleased to know that Areca palm can be grown and propagated very easily. Most will buy a mature plant from a garden centre or online retailer. However, if propagating an existing plant, simply divide the plant carefully when repotting, or cut off an offshoot with a knife and replant it in similar conditions. Growing From Seed It’s possible to grow areca palm from seed, but the process requires patience, as it can be up to two months between planting and germination. Simply soak the seeds in lukewarm water for 2 days and then sow into a plastic pot in the appropriate growing medium. Then, place the whole pot in a plastic bag with a zipper and add water and universal fertiliser for the perlite to absorb. Leave the bag somewhere with a daytime temperature of around 26°C and wait patiently for your seeds to germinate. Areca Palm Care With what we’ve just said in mind, here’s how to ensure your Areca palm has the best chance of survival. Sunlight Exposure Getting the right levels of sunlight is crucial. Growing areca palms indoors demands bright sunlight, but it must be indirect, as direct light will cause scorching of the leaves, giving them a yellow, wilted appearance which can be hard to recover from. These plants favour windows that face south or west to capture rays shining north or eastward. Soil Requirements Another quick way to harm or even kill an areca palm is waterlogged soil, so take care that you take steps to improve the drainage if it comes in soil that doesn’t drain well. Mixing bark or sand through your soil can help to improve drainage. In terms of acidity, neutral or acidic soils are best. Watering While waterlogged soil can be detrimental, this is a thirsty plant that likes fairly frequent watering. “Dypsis lutescens is adapted to wet tropical conditions in the forest under canopy of Madagascar,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is what you are trying to replicate in your home – bright conditions but not direct, like the dappled shade under trees; plentiful water but not boggy conditions, ensuring the moisture drains from the soil. “Get this right and it will be a home-from-home for your Areca palm.” Check the top of the soil with your finger or the back of your hand, and give it a drink when it feels dry. The exact frequency will depend on your plant and the conditions it lives in, but as a ballpark, you may find yourself watering every 4-7 days, depending on soil dryness. If your areca palm is in a pot, ensure there are holes in the bottom to allow drainage and if the pot stands in a dish, empty any excess water out of the dish shortly after watering to facilitate proper drainage. I have personally had issues growing this plant in the past where I had been inadvertently overwatering and allowing the plant to sit in moisture for extended periods. You will know if you experience the same issue because the leaves will begin to turn brown and wilt. Temperature & Humidity This plant likes a temperature between 16-24°C which is comfortably within the room temperature of most homes. Dead areas with red or brown colouration can indicate low temperature and brown leaves (as well as being a sign of under/overwatering) can also suggest that the air is too dry, which you can tackle by misting the leaves each day. Feeding These plants are hungry as well as thirsty and enjoy regular feeding. Indoor arecas like to be fed quarterly but will tolerate 3 feeds in a year. Use a slow-release 8-2-12 fertiliser and give 1-2 teaspoons for a small pot, or 1-2 tablespoons for a larger one. For best results just sprinkle the fertiliser on the top layer of the soil before watering. Repotting Repotting an areca is easy, just shimmy the plant from its current pot, give it a gentle shake to dislodge as much soil as possible from the root ball, and then pop it into a new container with dry soil. Make sure the top of the soil attached to the plant is level with the top of the new soil, then give it a little water. You will want to give the new plant at least 5cm space around its roots to allow the plant to grow – though don’t give too much space if you’re happy with the current size of your palm. Common Problems This plant can attract a few pests including thrips and mealybugs, but thankfully preventing and removing them isn’t too difficult. Thrips are small sap-sucking insects that cause mottling and other leaf damage. Predatory mites and sticking traps are a good non-harmful way to keep them at bay, and various pesticides are available. Mealybugs suck sap as well, and leave behind a trademark fluffy wax substance. Remove infected leaves from the plant and their environment to prevent further spread.
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Spider Plants Are Enjoying A Resurgence In Popularity - Here's How To Care For Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Where To Plant Ongoing Plant Care References Spider plants are popular houseplants here in the UK and are known to be one of the easiest houseplants to grow. This guide will help you make sure you can grow them successfully in your home. Spider plants were extremely popular in the 1970s and, since the houseplant resurgence, have been enjoying another period of popularity in recent years.1 These plants are among those easy-to-care-for houseplants which are popular with new plant parents looking to ease themselves into caring for plants indoors. Overview Botanical Name Chlorophytum comosum Common Name(s) Spider Plant Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Africa Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers small star-shaped white flowers When To Plant March-September Chlorophytum comosum is a perennial, evergreen flowering plant. Native to tropical and southern Africa, it is commonly grown as a houseplant in temperate climes.2 The plant grows around 60cm in height and width, though it can descend a number of feet as a hanging plant. The leaves are long and narrow, and blooms are produced in summer on long, branched inflorescences upon which small white flowers occur in small clusters. Common Varieties “Spider plants are popular for a reason, as they are versatile, tough and easy to propagate,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Although you tend to see only a small selection of cultivars available commercially, there are more variations available if you get the collecting bug.” By far the most common options chosen for houseplants are the variegated varieties C. comosum ‘Variegatum’ and C. comosum ‘Vittatum’. Both of these cultivars have received an Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society.3 ‘Variegatum’ has dark green leaves with white margins, and is generally the smaller of these two types. ‘Vittatum’ has somewhat lighter green leaves, with a broad white stripe down the centre of each leaf. Where To Plant Spider plants should be planted in pots or hanging containers which are large enough to accommodate the roots of the plant with just a couple of centimetres of growing medium all around. Typically, spider plants are purchased as small pot-grown plants. These are best potted up into a new container on arrival, sometime between March and September for best results. Make sure that you choose a free-draining container, and provide suitable growing conditions, as discussed below. Ongoing Plant Care Spider plants really are one of the easiest houseplants to grow. However, it is important to consider the growing conditions that they prefer and to think about how you care for them, to make sure your plants remain as happy and healthy as possible. Sunlight C. comosum prefers bright but not direct light. However, they can also cope with lower light levels. Soil Requirements These plants are gloriously unfussy about their growing conditions. They should thrive in any reasonably good quality potting mix, as long as it drains relatively freely. For environmental reasons, remember that peat-free compost should always be selected. Watering Spider plants should be watered regularly between April and September when the plants are in active growth, but more sparingly when the plants are dormant over the colder months of the year. Temperature & Humidity Spider plants are not very fussy about the temperatures and humidity either. Ideally, they will like temperatures that are relatively cool, between around 13-18°C. However, they can also cope when grown in more heated spaces inside your home as long as the temperatures do not fluctuate too extremely. Just make sure that the area remains frost-free throughout the year and your plants should be fine. The tips of the leaves may turn brown if the air is too dry. Increase humidity in a particularly dry setting by misting the plants regularly. Fertilising Spider plants do not necessarily need to be fertilised at all when grown in a reasonably nutrient-rich growing medium. However, it can be beneficial, to keep the plants in top condition, to feed plants with a balanced, organic liquid feed every couple of weeks through the growing season, from spring to the beginning of autumn. Common Pests Spider plants are not commonly seriously affected by pests or diseases. However, they can become infested with scale insects, aphids, mealy bugs, spider mites or other common houseplant pests on occasion. Use organic sprays where there is a serious infestation of indoors-grown plants. Repotting Spider plants should only be repotted once they become pot-bound and roots begin to emerge from the base of the pot, and watering becomes difficult as a result. Be sure not to place spider plants into too large a container as they may suffer waterlogging issues when the roots do not fill the majority of the space. Brown Tips On Leaves You can cut off the brown tips to improve the plant’s appearance without doing any harm. Just make sure you use a sharp, clean tool to do so, to avoid doing any damage. Trim off any brown leaf tips and plantlets, cutting these off at the base, to make sure that your plant is able to direct its full attention to growing healthy fresh leaves. Making Your Plant Bushier While pruning a spider plant is not usually required, you can also prune off any damaged or sub-par leaves as desired to improve the plant’s appearance and rejuvenate it to create bushier growth. Generally, however, you can make sure your plant has a bushier and healthier appearance simply by meeting all the environmental needs and care needs of the plant discussed above. You can also plant the baby plantlets from a spider plant into the same pot to give the mother plant a fuller and more bushy appearance. References 1. Seventies houseplants are back. (n.d.). ITV. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.itv.com/thismorning/articles/seventies-houseplants-are-back 2. Mahr, S. (n.d.). Spider plant, Chlorophytum comosum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/spider-plant-chlorophytum-comosum/ 3. AGM Plants. (2026, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf
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Peace Lily Plant Care: They Will Do Best Sheltered From Extreme Temperature Swings
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Where To Grow How To Plant Ongoing Plant Care References Peace Lily plants are one of the most popular houseplants to grow in the UK and make a great choice for a suitable spot inside your home. Peace lilies are easy plants to care for and will not take up too much of your time or attention. Overview Botanical Name Spathiphyllum wallisii Common Name(s) Peace Lily Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Columbia Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Tiny white flowers in a white spathe When To Plant Any time indoors The peace lily, Spathiphyllum wallisii, is a herbaceous perennial and tropical evergreen in the Araceae plant family. It was discovered in the late 19th Century growing wild in Colombia and has since been hybridised and has become a very popular houseplant, with a number of interesting cultivars which are commonly grown as indoor plants in the UK and other temperate climes.1 It is in the same family as Zantedeschia, and to less obviously related houseplants like Monstera and Dieffenbachia. Common Varieties As well as buying species peace lilies, it is also possible to find a range of hybrid cultivars. Spathiphyllum ‘Domino’ Some common options to consider include: S. ‘Domino’ S. ‘Jetty’ S. ‘Little Angel’ S. ‘Mauna Loa’ S. ‘Patricia’ S. ‘Picasso’ S. ‘Piccolino’ S. ‘Sensation’ S. ‘Sonia’ S. ‘White Stripe’ Where To Grow Peace lilies will be perfect for growing indoors in a light and bright spot, but one which is out of direct sunlight. A reasonably bright bathroom or another humid spot can be ideal since these are plants which will thrive in a warm and humid environment. Peace lilies will do best if they are sheltered from any chilly draughts, and are kept away from heat sources such as radiators or stoves which can cause excessive temperature swings. Aim to provide temperatures that consistently remain between around 18-25°C. How To Plant Peace lilies, once purchased, should be repotted into their long-term container. It is important to choose a pot which is no more than a third larger than the root ball. Fill two-thirds of the pot up with a suitable peat-free growing medium, which is moist yet free-draining. Then. put your peace lily into the new pot and fill around the root ball with the growing medium. Water well, making sure that excess water is allowed to drain away. Ongoing Plant Care Peace lilies really are incredibly easy to care for. Their care simply involves making sure that you meet the basic requirements for water and nutrition, and get the environmental conditions right in the first place. If you do these things then you are not that likely to encounter many problems. Watering It is important to water regularly, and you should aim to never allow the potting mix to dry out entirely, but you should also make sure that the medium does not become waterlogged, as this can also cause issues. As a general rule, you should water well, letting the water drain away freely, then water again only once the top few centimetres of the potting medium is dry. Try to use rainwater if possible as the chlorine in tap water can cause issues. Peace lilies are rather more sensitive to chlorine than other plants, so if you are experiencing problems when using tap water, but cannot use rainwater, then it may be wise to distil the water before use. Putting a finger into the potting mix up to the knuckle to see whether it is dry should help you determine when more water is required. Luckily, peace lilies will soon tell you if they are not getting enough water, since they will wilt when they are thirsty. If your room is rather dry, then you may also need to mist your plant every now and then to raise humidity. Soil Requirements Peace lilies will do best in a multipurpose peat-free potting compost, or a potting mix which has been formulated for potted houseplants. As mentioned above, the mix should be moist yet free-draining. Feeding While you do not necessarily have to worry too much about this, it can be beneficial to feed your peace lily with an organic liquid plant feed (such as compost tea) every couple of weeks in the spring and summer months. Light Requirements Remember, peace lilies like partial shade, preferring to be in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight. So, be sure not to place them where the sunlight is too intense or this can cause brown patches or streaks on the leaves. “As the best spot for a Spathiphyllum is out of direct sunlight, it is a good idea to remove dust from the leaves regularly with a plant wipe or clean damp cloth to aid optimal photosynthesis,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Repotting Peace lilies do prefer to have their roots somewhat constricted, so it is not a good idea to increase pot size too much. Usually, however, you should repot your peace lily into a slightly larger pot every 2-3 years. If your plant keeps wilting even though it has been watered, this can be a sign that the plant has outgrown its situation and repotting is required. Flowering One common issue that those with a new peace lily often face is the plant not flowering. There is a range of reasons why a peace lily may not have flowered, mostly relating to its happiness in the environmental conditions you have provided. Unfortunately, if your plants are otherwise happy, getting peace lilies to flower again might just be a waiting game, as your plants might not actually be at their mature flowering stage just yet. They may have been forced to flower prematurely by those selling them, through the use of gibberellic acid.2 This is not a recommended approach, and you should not attempt it. Simply make sure all the plant’s needs are perfectly met and wait until the plant actually does reach maturity and flower. Pruning Peace lilies do not need pruning, but it is natural for some yellow leaves to form, and these can be removed to make room for new growth. Common Pests Peace lilies are not prone to pests or diseases, and when problems arise, they are almost always associated with environmental conditions. However, you may see small flies around the potting mix, and these are likely to be fungus gnats, which thrive in damp potting mix. Watering less can sometimes help to disrupt their life cycle, or you can trap adults with beer traps or similar. Organic pesticides can be used in cases of extreme infestation but should only ever be a last resort. Biological controls are also available. References 1. June 2015: the Peace Lily is Houseplant of the month. (2015, July 3). Flower Council. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.flowercouncil.co.uk/campaign/june-2015-the-peace-lily-is-houseplant-of-the-month 2. Henny, R., & Chen, J. (2016). Spathiphyllum Flowering—Keys to the Future. University of Florida. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP320
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Planting And Growing Vibrant Asiatic Lilies With Lynn Slackman
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Where To Grow Asiatics Planting Asiatic Lilies Ongoing Plant Care Common Varieties Problems & Pests Asiatic lilies are possibly one of the most colourful and vibrant bulbs that can be grown in the garden. Although typically unscented, Asiatic lilies are available in almost every colour under the sun and are one of the first lilies to bloom in summer. As one of the shorter varieties of the Liliaceae family, they are perfect for growing in pots and containers or for the middle or front of the border. “I use Asiatic Lilies in pots and containers where their shorter height comes in handy compared to the taller Oriental Lilies which can be a bit tall for anything but the largest pots,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “What the Asiatic Lilies lack in fragrance they make for in visual punch.” This guide features Lynn Slackman, the current President of the North American Lily Society. “I’ve been growing and caring for plants for as long as I can remember,” says Lynn. “Like all plants, proper care and growing conditions are important. The beauty of lilies offers a reward like no other.” Overview Botanical Name Lilium asiatica Common Name(s) Asiatic Lily Plant Type Ornamental Bulb Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow, orange and red flowers When To Plant September-November When To Prune July-August Asiatic lilies, as their name suggests, originate from parts of Asia and are much less fussy when it comes to growing them when compared to the rather similar Oriental lily. Sadly, the majority of Asiatic lilies are unscented, unlike the oriental varieties, but don’t let this put you off as they are available in the most wonderful array of colours, ready to suit any planting scheme. “Lilies put on a show in my summer garden,” Lynn says. “They don’t take up much space and reward me with amazing colours, size, fragrance, and beauty that is unsurpassed.” Grown from bulbs, they develop deep green and glossy leaves with their upward-facing blooms triumphantly displayed at the top of the stems. Although generally shorter when compared to other lilies, they still pack a punch and are brilliant at providing a burst of colour into the garden. Where To Grow Asiatics Asiatic lilies flower best when given as much sun as possible, although they can cope with partial shade. When choosing where to plant the bulbs or place their container it is best to aim for at least 6 hours of sunlight a day, in order to get the best from them. Lilies usually grow on straight stems, however, if grown in the shade beware that they may tend to grow towards the light, even at an angle. Asiatic lilies grow best in fertile and moist, but well-drained soil. However, they hate to be allowed to sit in wet or water-logged soil as this can cause the bulbs to rot. Unlike oriental lilies which require an ericaceous soil, Asiatic varieties prefer a neutral to alkaline pH. Planting Asiatic Lilies Lilies, along with many other bulbs and plants tend to look best when planted in an odd number, three, five or seven as a group tends to work. Even three in a small pot is surprisingly effective, as the bulbs soon multiply leading to more flowers in the subsequent years. Lily bulbs are usually quite large and need to be planted deep, and Asiatic bulbs are no exception. Where at all possible the bulbs need to be planted at least 10-15cm below soil level and at a spacing of 15-30cm depending on their variety and eventual size. I’d recommend planting Asiatic lily bulbs from autumn onwards, right up until April, apart from when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. Asiatic lily bulbs are hardy generally down to temperatures of -10 to -15°C and require little protection over the winter in the south of the UK. However, in colder parts of the UK, it may be necessary to cover those directly planted with mulch or fleece or move pots undercover during very cold spells. When purchasing lily bulbs, they should be firm to touch and mould-free and ideally be planted soon on arrival, as they can dry out if left too long. The principle for planting directly into the ground or in a container is the same, although if using a container or pot it is especially important to check for drainage holes, as these are essential to avoid the bulbs rotting in wet soil. Before filling the pot with compost, it is worth adding some drainage material first, such as some crocks or gravel to allow any excess water to drain away freely. Fill part way with a general-purpose peat-free compost and arrange the bulbs at the required depth with the roots facing down and the tips pointing up and top up with compost. If the compost feels too dense, it is worth adding some horticultural grit to the mix to increase its drainage. Water after planting and keep the soil moist, but not wet. “Lilies need to have their roots in the shade and their heads should be able to float in the sun,” Lynn advises. “Adequate moisture during hot and dry conditions is essential.” Ongoing Plant Care Feeding Lilies in general are heavy feeders, so it is advisable to add a slow-release fertiliser at the time of planting and feed every 2 weeks during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid feed, such as a tomato fertiliser. Pruning Once Asiatic lilies have finished flowering, the flowers can be deadheaded just below the flower to prevent them from going to seed. However, it is vital to leave the stems and foliage on to die back naturally and replenish the bulb’s energy before removing it in the autumn. Supporting Staking with metal or bamboo supports and tying in may be required, especially for taller varieties, as having waited for the plants to flower the last thing you want is the flower stems to bend and break. Dividing Over time, as the bulbs multiply, flowering may be reduced as the bulbs become overcrowded and baby bulbs are produced. Early autumn is an ideal time to divide the bulbs, once the foliage has died back and been removed. To divide, carefully dig up the bulbs and split them into smaller, more manageable groups to replant. The baby bulbs lifted can be removed, potted up and overwintered under cover to grow on and plant out the following year. Common Varieties When it comes to choosing Asiatic lilies, the choice is endless. With most being a similar size, it really comes down to the choice of colour, which ranges from red and orange to pink and even black – there is one for every garden or terrace. Asiatic lily bulbs are often available from autumn onwards, whether from garden centres or online growers. With lilies especially, it is always worth buying only good quality bulbs, as if they have been allowed to completely dry out it is unlikely that they will come to anything in spring. To help you choose here is a selection of some of the best to grow here in the UK. L. ‘Cavoli’ This variety is perfect for containers due to its compact nature, growing to only 40cm tall and 25cm wide. With its luxurious deep red flowers, it really stands out from the crowd. L. ‘White Twinkle’ ‘White Twinkle’ is an absolute stunner, with its creamy white blooms with deep red spots. Sometimes scented, it looks wonderful when used as a cut flower or when planted in a border. As a larger variety, it can grow to 1m in height. L. ‘Forever Marjolein’ This variety is an Asiatic hybrid and provides a real burst of colour with its bright pink petals with orange centres. A beautiful flower, it is larger than some, so can be better suited to a border or large container. L. ‘Purple Dream’ ‘Purple Dream’ is a newly bred lily with pink and purple petals and freckles. With an eventual size 90cm tall and 40cm wide, it is ideally suited to a border or large container. L. ‘Lollypop’ ‘Lollypop’ looks like her name would suggest and is a cheering addition to any garden. With white and raspberry two-tone petals and flashes of green, the flowers are magnificent. Problems & Pests “Lilies are attractive to people as well as common airborne bacteria, fungi, insects, and small mammals,” says Lynn. “Appropriate care and prevention from predatory factions is key to success.” Red Lily Beetle The red lily beetle, or Lilioceris lilii, is a beautiful insect, but don’t let its appearance charm you as it can strip a prized lily bare. The bright red beetles are a similar size to a ladybird and can easily be seen with the naked eye. Now widespread in the UK, red lily beetles are sadly a common sight. The beetle and its grubs feed on the foliage, seed pods and even petals leading to not only a patchwork of holes but poor health of the actual bulb as well. Frustratingly, adult beetles are capable of overwintering in the vicinity, so control methods must be applied during the growing season. If the red lily beetle is present, it is advisable to try and tolerate small numbers of beetles or try organic methods, before considering a pesticidal approach. Non-pesticidal approaches can include encouraging predators such as birds, frogs and ground beetles into the area and removing the beetles by hand where possible. When necessary, organic insecticides containing natural pyrethrin ingredients can be used. However, these often have a short window of action and frequent reapplication may be required, as per their instructions. If all else fails, pesticides can be used, but it is inadvisable to use these when the plant is in flower due to the danger it poses to any pollinators present. Slugs And Snails Young fresh Asiatic lily shoots emerging in spring can be especially susceptible to damage from slugs and snails. Control methods against slugs and snails can include picking off by hand, torch-lit night-time hunts, encouraging predators such as birds and frogs and using barrier methods. It is often recommended to combine a few of these approaches in order to be effective. Vine Weevils The vine weevil, another type of beetle, can be problematic to many garden plants, especially those grown in containers which include the Asiatic lily. The adult beetle feeds on the foliage edges during the summer, but more worryingly, the grubs feed on the roots and base of the bulb in winter. Controls can include torch-lit night-time hunts and picking off adults by hand, along with applying nematodes, a type of biological control. Nematodes can prove effective, but their use is limited by the outside temperature, so cannot be used all year round. If nematodes fail, a systemic insecticide can be used on ornamental plants only.
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Growing Crape Myrtle - Stick To Southern Coastal Climates And Sheltered Gardens
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Crape Myrtle? Where To Grow How To Plant Crape Myrtle Ongoing Plant Care References ‘Crape Flower’ or ‘Crape Myrtle’ is an attractive shrub or small tree which has attractive flowers in the summer and early autumn. Crape myrtle or crepe myrtle is the common name for Lagerstroemia species. The Lagerstroemia genus contains 48 species of trees and shrubs which are native to southeast Asia and northern Australia.1 These plants are common in landscaping and horticulture in warmer temperate climes. Overview Botanical Name Lagerstroemia indica Common Name(s) Crape Myrtle / Crape Flower Plant Type Tree / Shrub Native Area India, South-East Asia, Northern Australia Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Crinkled crepe-like pink, purple or white flowers When To Plant June-September When To Prune December-February The most commonly used species is the common crepe myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica. Though this plant may not be ideally suited to the cooler climate and growing conditions in the UK, L. indica has an RHS Award of Garden Merit, suggesting it can be grown suitably in these climes. It is a fairly good choice for coastal gardens or gardens in other milder southern areas. Why Grow Crape Myrtle? Crepe myrtle will be a good choice for only very sunny and protected gardens. However, where they do set flower, they can be very attractive ornamental plants. The pink, purple or white flowers, crinkled somewhat like crepe fabric, are borne in summer and early autumn on large, bold panicles up to 20cm long. They will grow up to 4-8m in height with a similar spread. Typically, in the UK, they only grow to the lower end of that range due to the cooler conditions. As well as being prized as ornamental plants for their flowers, crape myrtle also offers interest throughout much of the year. These plants are also prized for their healthy lush foliage in spring, which may emerge red with some varietals. In summer, the flowers bring a pop of colour and yet even after they fade, these plants can also have amazing autumn foliage, with gold, yellow and orange hues. Even in winter, these plants can have some ornamental appeal, with interesting peeling bark in a greyish-orange colour which flakes off to reveal a smoother underside. Where To Grow Crape myrtle requires a warm, sheltered and sunny spot. It is H3 hardy, but they do become hardier as the wood ripens in the sun and the plants become established. In fact, dormant plants can potentially be hardy down to around -10°C if the wood is well-ripened. However, this is a plant which will usually require the protection of a sunny south-facing wall to flower successfully in the UK, and the flowering will usually only be successful in the UK during warm summers, even in the south. “Lagerstroemia indica is most suited to coastal climates in southern Britain or a sheltered garden in urban areas,” adds Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “These locations will be substantially warmer in winter and more benign for young L. indica trees. “If grown in more northerly or inland locations, care will have to be taken to protect plants during the coldest winter weather.” Where outdoors conditions are not suitable, crape myrtle might be grown in a large container under glass, as long as the conditions are light and bright enough as these plants cannot grow in shade. Whether growing in the ground or in a container, crape myrtle will require free-draining conditions. Generally, it can be tolerant of a range of different soil types and soil pH levels but will tend not to do quite so well in heavily alkaline soils. It can grow in nutritionally poor soils and is relatively drought-tolerant once established. Crape myrtle roots spread out a long way, but they are not invasive or strong, so can sometimes be good choices for planting near paving, paths or driveways. How To Plant Crape Myrtle Unfortunately, crape myrtle does not transplant well, so plants are usually purchased as large specimens with well-developed root balls. Plants can be purchased and planted in late spring or early summer, as soon as all risk of frost has passed in your area. If you have seen an amazing crape myrtle in a friend’s or neighbour’s garden, you might also be able to get a plant of your own by taking cuttings. Crape myrtle does not usually set seed successfully in the UK, but the plants can be propagated by means of softwood cuttings taken in late spring, or by means of semi-ripe cuttings (given some bottom heat in a propagator) in the summer months. Dwarf cultivars and other smaller cultivars to be grown indoors or moved undercover during the winter months are best planted in late spring or early summer too. These should be placed in a container with good drainage, in a multipurpose peat-free growing medium with added grit. Ongoing Plant Care Watering Crape myrtle grown outdoors in a suitable spot is fairly drought tolerant once established, but it will require regular watering until established. Although they need free-draining conditions, moist soil will be best for speedy growth. Try to make sure that soil remains moist throughout the year while avoiding the creation of waterlogged conditions. Remember that if you are growing crape myrtle in a container, you will need to water it more frequently, especially over the summer months. Feeding When growing in the ground, crape myrtle will not require regular feeding. The addition of organic mulch around the base of the tree or shrub each spring should provide sufficient fertility. However, in containers, it may be beneficial to feed your plant with an organic liquid plant feed which is balanced in the spring, and a potash-rich feed in the summer to promote flowering. Overwintering A thick carbon-rich mulch can help to protect plant roots in winter. As borderline hardy plants, crape myrtles not brought indoors or under cover may also need to be protected with a covering such as horticultural fleece when heavy frosts threaten, especially when they are fairly young and the wood has not ripened as much to improve hardiness. Pruning Crape myrtles are in RHS pruning group 1, which means they naturally form a well-branched framework and usually only need light pruning if they need any pruning at all. Light pruning should be undertaken in the spring. However, these plants are tolerant of harder pruning if required. Some gardeners traditionally hard-pruned crape myrtles in a process known as Crepe Murder.2 Cutting a crape myrtle back very hard, and lopping off all the tops, encourages the shrub or tree to put energy into producing new branches and leaves rather than flowers. This is said to give larger blooms the following season. However, this practice is not recommended, for a number of reasons. For one thing, larger flowers on new branches in profusion can cause them to droop and they may break. For another thing, the knobbly growth this creates at the point where cuts were made makes the plant more susceptible to disease and can also look unsightly. Also, fresh new growth is far less hardy than seasoned wood, so plants treated in this way are far less likely to make it through the winter in the UK climate, and you will miss out on the beauty of the older wood. Companion Planting If you are trying to create a Mediterranean-style garden, then a crape myrtle could be a good choice. Crape myrtles work well with bougainvillaea, hibiscus, Mediterranean fruit trees, and a range of Mediterranean vegetables and herbs. If you have a suitably sunny and warm garden, crape myrtle could be an attractive ornamental option to consider. References 1. Lagerstroemia L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanical Gardens. Retrieved May 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:25461-1#children 2. Crepe Myrtle Pruning – Why, When, and How to do It. (2022, December 21). Trees.com. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.trees.com/gardening-and-landscaping/crepe-myrtle-pruning
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Bindweed Can Very Quickly Get Out Of Control - Why Weedkiller Is Not The Solution
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Bindweed? Why Is Bindweed A Problem? Why Weedkiller Is Not The Solution Manual Removal Preventing Spread Creating Competition & Ground Cover References Bindweed is a pernicious weed which many gardeners find a major problem. This is a weed which can very quickly get out of control, and unfortunately, in an organic garden, there are no quick and easy solutions. Organic growing does take a bit more work in certain circumstances, but it is always the best policy for those who care about wildlife, people and the planet. In this article, we will talk about bindweed, and help you understand how to keep it under control in an organic garden. What Is Bindweed? Bindweed is the name given to two problematic garden weeds. The first is ‘Hedge Bindweed’, also known as ‘Bellbind’ – Calystegia sepium. The second is ‘Field Bindweed’ – Convolvulus arvensis. Both of these plants are trumpet-flowered perennials, which can actually look rather attractive in the right setting. Bellbind is, as the name hedge bindweed suggests, a typical hedgerow plant. It climbs over and can smother hedgerow plants and even smaller trees. It has strong stems, heart-shaped leaves and large white trumpet-shaped flowers. Field bindweed resembles the above, but has weaker stems, and smaller flowers which are also trumpet-shaped and can be white or pink. These plants can be beneficial in a garden. The flowers provide pollen for bees and other pollinators and are a source of food for Lepidoptera species such as convolvulus hawk moths. Unfortunately, however, both can be a bane for gardeners, since they twine around other plants, smothering them and affecting their growth, or even killing them. So, while they may be welcome if not excessively growing in your garden, they are commonly a major issue where they grow more prolifically. Why Is Bindweed A Problem? Bindweed (of both types) is a problem because it can thrive in a range of settings, quickly taking over cultivated areas. Since these plants spread from the tiniest fragments of underground stem, which can penetrate extremely deeply (5m or more) into the ground, they can be extremely difficult to eradicate from growing areas. Established colonies can also spread out 2m or more in a single year of growth. Bellbind rarely produces seeds, but field bindweed produces seeds freely, and both can be viable for several years in the soil. Bindweed may not be an issue when it is within a wilder scheme, and where it is not adversely impacting the plant life around it. However, it can be a problem where it is growing particularly prolifically, or, of course, where it has made its way into cultivated beds and is impacting crops or prized ornamental plants. Why Weedkiller Is Not The Solution Topical application of weedkillers such as those containing glyphosate is effective against these weeds, but in an organic garden, weedkiller is not the solution. Keeping your garden organic and creating thriving, abundant, biodiverse and resilient ecosystems is always the best policy. Remember, non-selective weedkiller won’t just kill the weeds, but also any other plants with which it comes into contact. Since bindweed tangles around other plants, isolating the plants for chemical treatment can be challenging, especially with larger-scale colonies. Manual Removal While it is a large amount of work, manual removal of the above-ground portions of the plants, and ideally as much of the root system as possible, is really the only solution when it comes to containing bindweed or eradicating it from a particular bed or growing area. This can be achieved with a fork, working carefully over an area of soil and carefully removing as much of the root as you can. It is best to work quickly, soon after new growth appears in the spring, and then to keep your eyes open and repeat this procedure whenever new growth emerges. It is unlikely that you will entirely eradicate bindweed from a given area over just one season, but manual removal of this kind should keep it in check and prevent its further spread. If bindweed has infiltrated a bed with existing plants that you do not wish to disturb, then you should use a hoe to sever the tops off the plants at ground level. This is not a one-and-done job though, and you will need to repeat this process every 10-14 days through the whole of the growing season. This should weaken the plants and stop them from regenerating as effectively from their roots. Preventing Spread If you have been successful in eradicating bindweed from a garden bed or border through the cultural control mentioned above, you should note that new colonies can still establish from seed or root growth from adjacent areas or adjacent properties. New seedlings should of course be removed immediately from areas where they may become a problem. Wherever possible, it is also a good idea to consider installing a physical barrier 45cm deep into the soil along the edge of an area to prevent bindweed roots from creeping under a fence or other boundary. If bindweed is a persistent problem in kitchen garden beds, you might also consider creating bed edges which descend into the soil as well as rising above it to reduce the chances of bindweed making its way into those beds. Preventing spread also means being careful about the compost and other materials you bring onto your property, and the material in which plants you buy have been grown, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “This is how bindweed made its way into my garden – in a load of green waste compost. “It is in a densely grown bed of perennials with plenty of competition for light, nutrients and water, but it invariably finds a gap and begins to climb and smother other plants. “The only option is to locate the root source and try to take as much root up as possible, which is not easy as the white root breaks easily and will regrow to form new plants. “Determination and rigour will pay dividends but eradication is very difficult once it is established.” If you decide to tolerate areas of bindweed in certain parts of your organic garden for the sake of local wildlife, it is best to keep it contained, especially by making sure it does not set seed and become a bigger issue for other gardeners in your area. Creating Competition & Ground Cover Bindweed is a vigorous plant which can outcompete many others, but there are plants which can compete with it effectively. Where there is enough competition for nutrients and water, resources will be scarcer for the bindweed and it will not grow as prolifically if it grows at all. So, while it will not keep bindweed out of your garden altogether, keeping the soil well covered, with living roots of plants you want in the soil at all times, can help reduce the incidence of bindweed issues and other weed problems. Plant densely in perennial schemes, creating polycultures of plants which aid one another and work well as a holistic ecosystem. Layer plants in the space and make sure that there is good ground cover. A ground cover of chickweed, for example, has been used to suppress field bindweed in vineyards.1 A sequence of autumn and spring-sown green manure or cover crops in agricultural settings was also found to give good results against field bindweed. These give clues that can inform organic practice in domestic gardens too. Use living mulches of chickweed or other prolific low-growing plants between other plants in perennial planting schemes, or crop plants in a kitchen garden or vegetable beds. In areas of annual food cultivation, use green manures or cover crops to fill in any gaps in the planting throughout the year. These strategies might not keep bindweed out of your garden altogether, but they might play a role in making sure it does not get entirely out of hand. References 1. Chickweed : Board of Pesticides Control. (n.d.). Maine DACF. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.maine.gov/dacf/php/gotpests/weeds/chickweed.htm
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