Growing
6 Vibrant Pink Salvias Chosen By Award-Wining Garden Designers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) S. ‘Wendy’s Wish’ 2) S. ‘Mulberry Jam’ 3) S. nemorosa ‘Sensation Rose’ 4) S. ‘Kisses and Wishes’ 5) S. greggii ‘Icing Sugar’ 6) S. greggii ‘Strawberries and Cream’ Salvia is a showy plant that produces spikes of gorgeous flowers that are tubular in shape, and their square stems and velvety leaves make them instantly recognisable. “Salvias are one of my favourite late summer flowering perennials,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “They can often flower well into early autumn and decline gracefully as mellow autumn foliage starts to appear and fall. A great resource for late pollinators and great to look at for us too!” If you’re interested in growing this flower in your garden, then you’ve got a wide variety of colours to choose from, with pink being among the most popular. “I love salvias because they are so easy to grow,” shares Garden Designer Isabelle Palmer. “They came up at the beginning of spring and are still there in my borders now. There are so many different types too and they are a real study and beautiful plant to grow.” In this article, we will take a look at some of our favourite pink salvia varieties to help you add a touch of romance to your garden. “I’m also absolutely mad for salvias and I have been collecting these plants for a while,” shares Designer Lachlan Rae. “There’s one that I’ve got at the moment which I love called Salvia involucrata ‘Boutin’ which is a hybrid and is absolutely fantastic.” All of these varieties flower in summer and autumn and should be growing in chalk, loam or sand-based soil. 1) S. ‘Wendy’s Wish’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘Wendy’s wish’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This herbaceous perennial produces deep pink flowers from midsummer to autumn. This variety of salvia has red stems, fragrant olive-coloured leaves and grows to around 1m in height. ‘Wendy’s Wish’ will do its best in full sun or dappled shade in a sheltered spot that has humus-rich, well-drained soil. In springtime, I’d recommend adding a 5-10cm layer of mulch around the base of the plant to help it thrive. This species of salvia doesn’t require any pruning but you can remove fading flower stems to encourage prolonged blooms. 2) S. ‘Mulberry Jam’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘mulberry jam’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This bushy and compact variety of salvia grows to around 1.2m in height and sports pink blooms from summer to autumn. The leaves are small and scented and their green hue really makes the flowers pop. ‘Mulberry Jam’ is tolerant of drought but will grow best in full sun with moist, well-drained and moderately fertile soil. You will want to overwinter these plants, ideally in a greenhouse, away from the grips of frost. 3) S. nemorosa ‘Sensation Rose’ COMMON NAME(S): Balkan clary ‘sensation rose’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This pretty, pink salvia is a bushy, upright perennial with greyish-green leaves and tightly packed spikes of hooded, pale-pink blooms. This variety grows up to 1m tall and takes around 2-5 years to reach full height. While the ‘Sensation Rose’ can tolerate partial shade, you will see the best results by planting it in full sun and in moist, light, humus-rich and well-drained soil. 4) S. ‘Kisses and Wishes’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘kisses and wishes’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This adorably named species of salvia is an upright, woody perennial that will usually grow to around 75cm in height. It sports delicate, tubular, pale-pink flowers with dark pink streaks that bloom from early summer to late autumn. To get the most out of your ‘Kisses and Wishes’ salvia, you will want to plant them in a warm, sheltered spot, with lots of sun and moist, well-drained, humus-rich soil. As autumn draws to a close, you can either leave this plant where it is and treat it as an annual or overwinter it in a greenhouse. 5) S. greggii ‘Icing Sugar’ COMMON NAME(S): autumn sage ‘icing sugar’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This bushy variety of salvia grows to around 65-70cm in height and produces terminal racemes of bi-coloured bright pink and purple blooms which blossom from summer to autumn. ‘Icing Sugar’ requires light, fertile soil that is well-drained in a sheltered spot. It will overwinter if provided with full sun and soil that drains well. Rosemary beetles, leafhoppers and slugs and snails are quite partial to the new, young growth of this plant, so keep a watchful eye on it and use organic solutions if necessary. 6) S. greggii ‘Strawberries and Cream’ COMMON NAME(S): autumn sage ‘strawberries and cream’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This delicious-looking salvia is a shrub variety and grows to around 60-75cm in height. It has pleasantly scented, ovate green leaves and little 1.5cm wide flowers which bloom in pale pink, dark pink and cream from summer to autumn. Not only does ‘Strawberry and Cream’ salvia sound delicious, but they are actually used in culinary pursuits as a herb. This species of salvia needs plenty of shelter from cold, drying winds and prefers full sun. Plant it in light, well-drained soil. These are just some of our favourite pink salvia plants to inspire you – in such a varied genus there are many more available!
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'Don't Harvest Your Salvia In Year One': Important Advice To Follow From The Experts
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Sage 1) Don’t Harvest In Year One 2) Prune Regularly 3) Harvest For Immediate Use 4) Harvest For Storage 5) Allow Recuperation Time References Prized for its culinary and aromatic properties, sage (botanically known as Salvia) is a popular herb from the same family as mint and marjoram. As well as flavouring meat and poultry, it can be a great addition to buttery sauces and squash dishes.1 It’s accustomed to Mediterranean climates but will flourish just as well on a sunny windowsill, so it makes sense to have a plentiful supply on hand in any kitchen. Easy to grow, it’s also incredibly simple to harvest, but you’ll still want to follow a few basic steps. We’ve laid these out for you below: Lay off harvesting your plant in the first year. Prune regularly to prevent woody stems. Harvest for immediate use whenever necessary. Harvest for storage if you need a regular supply to hand, but make sure to store it appropriately for longevity. Allow time for your plant to recuperate before harvesting again. If any of those stages sound confusing to you, we’ll cover each one in more detail below – and will reveal exactly when is the best time to harvest your sage plant… Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pruning secateurs or scissors (optional) When To Harvest Spring or summer preferred When To Harvest Sage Sage is a hardy perennial which produces leaves all year round. However, it is advisable to only harvest leaves in the spring and summer, before it blossoms. After flowers appear, the foliage can lose its aroma somewhat and, what’s more, harvesting later in the year can spell trouble for the long-term well-being of your plant. 1) Don’t Harvest In Year One If growing a sage plant from seed, you can expect to see the first mature leaves appear on the stem within around two and a half months of sowing. However, it’s advisable to leave the plant alone for the first year to allow it time to fully establish itself. If you can’t hold off that long, it’s entirely possible to harvest some foliage in its first spring and summer. Just be sure to do so lightly, or you may compromise its long-term health. 2) Prune Regularly As with many other plants, sage will benefit from regular pruning. That’s because it has a tendency to become too woody, diverting too much attention to the growth of its stems and flowers and not enough to the leaves for which it’s famed. “My sage plants tend not to become too woody because it’s a herb I harvest quite regularly in summer,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Even so, I tend to replant every 3-5 years from cuttings, which take quite easily. “This ensures that the plant does not lose vigour. I find that this happens in my garden with sage because the soil is quite fertile and moist (not very Mediterranean).” If allowed to become woody, you may find that the plant will need to be replaced after a few years. The best way to avoid this outcome is to prune back longer stems, especially after flowering, to keep them in shape and divert their energies back towards the foliage. 3) Harvest For Immediate Use If you’re planning to use fresh sage leaves in your cooking immediately, you can simply pluck them from the stems with your fingers. It’s possible to select either mature or baby foliage; the latter is often more popular because it’s said to have a stronger aroma and flavour. The best time to harvest your sage leaves is on a clear day when humidity levels are low. Wait for the dew to have dried off the leaves completely, as this will ensure that the oils contained within them are at an optimum level. 4) Harvest For Storage If, on the other hand, you intend to harvest your sage and store it for later use, you can use your pruning scissors to cut entire stems around 15-20cm in length. Bundle them together and secure them with twine or an elastic band, then hang them upside down to dry. Once dried, the bundle should be stored in an airtight jar or another container. It’s also possible to store sage in the fridge or freezer. You can do this with both individual leaves or entire stems, though all foliage should be placed in a ziplock plastic bag wherever you plan to store it. Fridge specimens will stay fresh for a few days, while freezer ones are good for months. 5) Allow Recuperation Time Sage will withstand quite vigorous harvesting, but you should always be sure to leave a few stalks with plentiful leaves intact. This will allow the plant to continue to photosynthesise and ensures it can bounce back stronger than before. It’s also a good idea to give your sage plant time to recuperate during the autumn and winter months. Since it produces leaves all year round, you can theoretically harvest them whenever you want. However, it’s a better strategy to harvest in advance and store the leaves as outlined above to give the plant its longest life possible. References 1. Sage. (2022, June 10). BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/sage-glossary
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You Can Harvest Thyme All Year, But This Is When Is Tastes Best According To Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest How To Harvest Thyme Uses Thyme is an evergreen perennial herb that is an extremely useful plant both in the garden and in the kitchen. In the garden, it is a great companion plant, drawing in a range of beneficial wildlife, serving as a good ground cover and helping with organic pest control. In the kitchen, it has a wide range of culinary uses. There are several different cultivars to consider, including variants with a lemon flavour and variegated plants. There are also more upright and prostrate forms, which are useful in different locations in a garden. To learn all about harvesting thyme, keep reading. When To Harvest The leaves and stems of thyme can technically be harvested all year round. However, the flavour of the herb is best in the summer months, before it flowers, so I’d recommend harvesting between June and August. The herbs will have the best essential oil content when harvested in the morning of a sunny day after the dew has dried. If you have grown thyme from seed, it is best to wait until the second year before you begin to harvest, to make sure that the plant has established itself well. However, if you have bought some thyme in pots to plant, then you can typically begin to harvest from it right away. How To Harvest Use a pair of scissors to snip fresh green shoots from the plant as required. Make sure that you always leave around 12cm of woody material at the base of the plants so they can continue to grow well. Harvest shoots evenly so that the plant does not become imbalanced or lose its attractive appearance. Harvest regularly to keep the plants bushy, compact and producing new leaves. Let thyme plants flower in your garden. Although the flavour is not as good after flowering, the plants can still be used, and the flowers bring many benefits to garden ecology. Thyme Uses Fresh thyme can be used in the kitchen in a range of different ways. The stems can be used whole and the leaves can be ground and used as a herb that stands up well and retains its flavour in cooking. Unlike many other herbs, thyme retains its flavour well when dried. If you would like to dry thyme for later use then it should definitely be harvested in the summer, before the plant flowers. To dry the thyme, hang it in bunches in a warm, dark and well-ventilated location. “Another option, as with other herbs, is to chop and then freeze in ice cubes,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “These can then be put straight into drinks or even for cooking during the winter months. For cooking, you can freeze using olive oil rather than water.” Once it is fully dried, it can be placed into air-tight jars and moved into storage.
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Squashes Will Benefit From Some Sort Of Support - Try Trellis, Fencing Or Pergolas
IN THIS GUIDE Why Support Squash? Support Options Squash can be useful plants to grow in your garden, and there are both tender summer squash and winter squash to consider. Some squashes take up much less space and are less vigorous than others, but many squashes will benefit from some sort of support. Whether or not support is essential for your squash will depend on which type and variety you are growing and also on where they are grown. “Squash are great plants to grow, even in smaller spaces, as they can be grown vertically and trailed up netting, trellis or bamboo canes and can save on ground space,” says Gardener Hannah Reid. “They store so well, for months and months too.” Some squashes do not grow as long vining plants, while others can sprawl out or climb a long way. When choosing a variety, it is important to determine its growth habits and the eventual size to which you can expect it to grow. However, even those that do not strictly require support can benefit from it, so it is often something to consider. Why Support Squash? Squash can often take up a lot of space, but by choosing the right support for the type of squash you are growing, you can encourage the plants to grow vertically rather than horizontally. This means that you can reduce the amount of space they require, and make the most of the space available to you in your garden. “A sturdy squash support can be a good way to deal with any broad woody stems that are around 1.5m or longer,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “They can be driven into the ground, creating a tepee shape, and plants will generally scramble up these. “ Another reason why it can be a good idea to grow squash vertically up supports rather than letting them trail across the ground is that this means that the fruits will be elevated above the soil. This helps prevent the fruit from becoming deformed or rotting, or having disease problems, and can make it easier for them to have access to light and ripen successfully. Support Options Squashes are large and often heavy plants, so when thinking about support options, it is important to bear this in mind. Some support options for other climbing or vining plants will not necessarily be strong enough to support these hefty plants, especially once fruits begin to form. Here are some support options that, depending on the type of squash you are growing, you might consider: Pergolas Squash might sometimes be planted alongside a pergola and trained to climb up this structure on its southern, sunny side. Walls Or Fences You might also create sturdy support wires along a south-facing wall or fence up which squash and other vertically climbing plants might be grown. Trellis Supports If you do not already have a suitable structure for squash to use as support as they grow, then there are various different trellises that you might create. For example, you might make: Vertical structures affixed into the ground. Sturdy A-frame structures. V-shaped structures. A sturdy archway trellis. Propped ramp-type supports. “Small pieces of netting or old cloths, which will flex with a growing squash, can be tied to uprights to create mini hammocks,” adds Peter. “These support individual fruits on larger-fruiting varieties.” And these are just a few ideas. Remember, you might not have to buy a trellis, as there are plenty of ways to make your own from reclaimed, natural or up-cycled materials.
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Sorrel Is Easy To Harvest: Let Plants Grow To 10cm And Cut Off Any Flower Stalks
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Sorrel How To Harvest Sorrel References There are several different types of sorrel that you might grow in your garden, but whichever type you decide to grow, harvesting is incredibly easy and straightforward. To understand how and when to harvest whichever variety of sorrel you are growing in your garden, keep reading, as I’ve listed everything you need to know below. When To Harvest Sorrel Sorrel is typically sown indoors in February or outside in April. You can also choose to buy a young plant that you can plant out between April and August in your garden. You can grow sorrel in containers or in the ground and in full sun or partial shade, though you should always make sure that the soil or growing medium is moist yet free-draining. You can begin to harvest baby leaves as salad leaves just a month to 6 weeks after sowing and can choose to harvest at any time after the plants are around 10-12cm tall. The key thing to remember is that you should aim to harvest the most tender, young leaves rather than leaving these to grow too long, as the smaller and more tender the leaves are, the better their taste will be.1 Cutting Flower Stalks If you want to continue to harvest leaves throughout the growing season, you should cut off any flowers that form. The first flower stalk that the plant puts out in early summer should be cut so that the plant can produce an adequate quantity of flavourful leaves. Subsequent flower stalks may be allowed to remain though they will negatively impact both the growth and quality of leaves. Cutting off the flower stalks will always positively affect the leaves in both quality and quantity. “I will always try to remove all flowering heads, as sorrel can spread through your garden rather rapidly by seed,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. Sorrels are perennial plants, that should overwinter successfully in most UK gardens, so you can simply let the plant die back naturally in the autumn and it will return with new growth the following spring. How To Harvest Sorrel Sorrel can be grown alongside other salad leaves in a container or in the ground. When growing it in this way, for baby leaves, you can simply take a pair of scissors and snip off everything close to the soil or growing medium when the plants reach around 10-12cm tall. If you do this in mid-or-late summer you can cut back sorrel to the ground and get a fresh crop of new leaves. If you harvest outer leaves the plant will continue to grow fast and put out new leaves – new leaves will regrow in a couple of weeks. Sorrels elsewhere in the garden can simply be harvested by taking a pair of scissors and cutting off fresh new leaves in small batches whenever they are required. You should pick sorrel as close as possible to when you will use it, as it wilts quickly once picked. You can use sorrels in salads or cook with them in a range of recipes.2 It pairs well with eggs or potatoes in a range of dishes and is also commonly used to add a citrusy zing to soups or sauces. References 1. Werner, T. (2015, April 29). Sorrel, Explained. Epicurious. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.epicurious.com/ingredients/what-is-sorrel-recipes-article 2. Sorrel Salad. (2022, August 26). Foodwise. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://foodwise.org/recipes/sorrel-salad/
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Mollie Brown Shares 19 Companion Plants To Grow Alongside Hydrangeas
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Chinese Astilbe 2) Snapdragons 3) Purple Cranesbill 4) Common Box 5) Lamb’s Ear 6) Cape Jasmine 7) Coral Bells 8) Red-Barked Dogwood 9) Lily Of The Valley Bush 10) Catmint 11) Japanese Maple 12) Garden Speedwell 13) Common Foxglove 14) Japanese Pittosporum 15) Eulalia 16) Vase Vine 17) Siebold’s Plantain Lily 18) Blue Fescue 19) Common Yew Hydrangeas are hardy perennial climbers or shrubs which are widely loved and grown in gardens across the UK. Though their needs can vary by type, they generally grow best in part shade – and in a growing medium that is kept moist but is not allowed to become waterlogged. With this in mind, most hydrangea companion plants will need to tolerate damp but well-drained soil and part sun. In this guide, we share nineteen companions for you to plant alongside your hydrangeas that will not only thrive in the same environment – they’ll add ornamental (and often practical) value. 1) Chinese Astilbe BOTANICAL NAME: Astilbe chinensis HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread If it’s a bright array of summer colour you’re looking for, astilbes are a great choice for planting next to hydrangeas. Chinese astilbe produces bright pink blooms on upright stems that are said to resemble the iconic look of a goat’s beard. They can reach up to 1m tall and their spiky flowers will create a highly interesting contrast when companion planted next to or in front of a shrubby or climbing hydrangea. A low-maintenance and hardy plant, astilbe will perform well in many areas of your garden with little care, so it’s a great choice if you are new to gardening or just want to grow something that is a little easier than some others on this list. 2) Snapdragons BOTANICAL NAME: Antirrhinum majus HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: perennial / annual FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Snapdragons are beautiful plants most-often grown as annuals that come in a wide variety of colours from bright pinks to more muted creams. Their huge range of colours works great as you can choose one that is right for pairing with your hydrangeas. They are frost-tender plants and are unlikely to return the following year if you plant them directly into the ground, so if you’re looking for a more permanent feature, grow them in a pot with your hydrangeas and move the display to a warmer location during the winter months. These gorgeous plants do best in a sheltered site that receives full sun. 3) Purple Cranesbill BOTANICAL NAME: Geranium x magnificum HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread If you want to create a low-maintenance display, purple cranesbill is another hardy perennial to consider. With purple star-shaped flowers growing in abundance from stems up to 1m tall, this plant will pair brilliantly with most varieties of hydrangea and will help to put on a visually striking summer show. This perennial is easy to care for and will cope well in most soils and growing positions – perfect as a companion for that spot in the corner of your garden that other plants can’t tolerate. 4) Common Box BOTANICAL NAME: Buxus sempervirens HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: shrub / tree FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Buxus sempervirens, also known as ‘Box’ or ‘Boxwood’, is a small tree or shrub that can grow up to 8m high and wide – and which produces tiny yellow flowers in the spring. This evergreen shrub is hardy and tolerant of a range of growing conditions, making it a great choice for planting with your hydrangea shrubs. The green foliage will provide a stunning backdrop to any coloured blooms and can even be pruned into different shapes depending on whether your garden displays are more formal or not. In the arrangement above you can see the use of Marigolds to add bright, attention-grabbing colour alongside a large shrubby Box and a Panicled hydrangea shrub. 5) Lamb’s Ear BOTANICAL NAME: Stachys byzantina HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread If you’re looking for a good ground cover plant that can grow well in similar conditions to your hydrangeas, ‘Lamb’s Ear’ is an option to consider. With silvery foliage and clusters of purple flowers that grow on upright stems, this evergreen is a great choice for any summer flower beds. Much like boxwood, the leaves will act as a nice backdrop for your hydrangea blooms, whilst the summer flowers it produces will add a bit of colour to the bottom of your garden beds or borders. 6) Cape Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Gardenia jasminoides HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: shrub / houseplant FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Although this is a frost-tender plant, cape jasmine can look lovely when growing against a trellis or wall next to climbing hydrangeas, with stunning star-shaped white flowers appearing in the summer and autumn months. You could opt for growing this gorgeous evergreen as an annual, but I would recommend growing it in a pot with a more tender hydrangea variety. This way, you could enjoy the display in the summer months outdoors; then move the container inside your home or a heated greenhouse when the first frosts hit. 7) Coral Bells BOTANICAL NAME: Heuchera HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: semi-evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another summer flowering plant, Coral Bells is actually commonly grown for its foliage rather than its beautiful red bell-shaped blooms. Its lobed leaves can come in shades of purple, green or red depending on the variety and will last throughout most of the year, making it a great choice to plant around hydrangeas for some leafy interest. As you can see in the image above, it makes sense to grow Heuchera in a shaded area where you need to cover a good amount of ground. 8) Red-Barked Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus alba L. HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: shrub FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread Dogwood is a popular shrub (also grown as a tree) here in the UK; popular for its red stems that provide a splash of colour even in the winter when the rest of the plant has died back. This variety is a fully hardy perennial that produces lovely creamy flowers throughout the first half of the year, which are followed by white berries in the autumn. Cornus alba grows up to 4m in height and spread – and could provide some much-needed shade for your hydrangea plants if grown behind them. 9) Lily Of The Valley Bush BOTANICAL NAME: Pieris japonica HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: shrub FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread With white bell-shaped flowers that appear in clusters in the spring, Pieris japonica, or the ‘Lily of the Valley’ bush, is another hardy shrub that can cast occasional shade on your hydrangea to help them thrive. This delightful evergreen will grow best in acidic soil, with the blue blooms of your ericaceous hydrangeas creating a complementary display when paired with this medium-sized shrub. Lily of the valley is also great for container cultivation but will need to be planted in a large pot if you want to grow hydrangeas alongside it. Because it is rhizomatous and fast-spreading, it is generally advised to grow it in containers anyway, so this shouldn’t be too much of a deviation from how this plant is traditionally grown here in the UK. 10) Catmint BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta cataria HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Nepeta cataria, or catmint, is a colourful perennial that has clusters of colourful flowers that appear in the summer and autumn months. Their flowers are not just a delight for you and your garden, but for the pollinators that you wish to attract as well. Beloved by bees, catmint grows well in similar conditions to hydrangeas, making it a wonderful companion to grow in a low-maintenance planting scheme. Just make sure this plant receives plenty of sun, as, unlike hydrangeas, it does not cope well with too much shade. 11) Japanese Maple BOTANICAL NAME: Acer palmatum HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: tree FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread The first ‘proper’ tree on this list, the Japanese Maple grows up to 8m in height and spread; can cope well in the same growing conditions as hydrangeas and provide shade for them on summer days where the sun is perhaps a little too strong. This plant produces beautiful red leaves that last until autumn, returning again after the worst of the cold weather is over in the early spring. I love the Japanese maple for its distinctive foliage – and it’s perfect for gardens that perhaps don’t have the size for a larger specimen but are still interested in growing a tree. 12) Garden Speedwell BOTANICAL NAME: Veronica longifolia HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A great choice for a wildlife-friendly garden, speedwell is a hardy perennial that produces flowers on upright stems. These flowers will appear in summer and will look great when companion planted with the ruffled blooms of hydrangea shrubs. This plant looks quite similar to lavender, but the flowers are more of a blueish shade and, unlike the sun-loving, drought-tolerant herb, garden speedwell is much less fussy and (arguably) easier to grow. As speedwell is quite versatile, you can grow it as a hedge or in your garden beds or borders – it can adjust to suit the location of your existing hydrangeas. 13) Common Foxglove BOTANICAL NAME: Digitalis purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: biennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Producing flowers that grow on upright stems up to 2.5m tall, foxgloves are an intriguing choice to plant alongside hydrangeas in a traditional cottage garden or in a more natural planting scheme. “I have found foxgloves to be amazingly versatile in combining with many different types and styles of planting, from woodland areas to herbaceous borders, to more formal planting,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Because it self-seeds freely, it should always be possible to either harvest the seeds or seedlings to keep it going.” These unfussy plants grow well in shade and will thrive in conditions similar to hydrangeas. You may consider growing them as companions in a container as shown in the image above. Just be aware that these plants are short-lived biennials and will only last for two years – one of which will be dormant without any flowering. You can plant them on alternate years and allow them to self-seed if you’d like them to flower every year alongside hydrangeas in your garden. 14) Japanese Pittosporum BOTANICAL NAME: Pittosporum tobira HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: houseplant / shrub FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Pittosporum tobira, more often referred to as ‘Japanese Pittosporum’ is a half-hardy shrub that produces dainty white flowers in the shape of stars in the spring and summer; which will make a prime contribution to your flowering displays. The dark leaves from this shrub are not only a great backdrop for their own blooms but will act as a nice support for the lovely colours of your hydrangea flowers. This versatile plant can be grown as a hedge or in your borders and beds, only reaching 4m in height with around half the spread. 15) Eulalia BOTANICAL NAME: Miscanthus sinensis HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: grass / perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: grey, pink and silver FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread Eulalia is a great choice if you want your hydrangeas to be the stars of the show. Although it can grow up to 4m in height, this perennial grass produces pale creamy flowers that will really help accentuate the beautiful blooms of a shrub. As long as Eulalia gets plenty of sun, it is a relatively easy plant to care for once planted out. 16) Vase Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis viorna HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: climber / perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread Possibly my favourite pick on this list, Clematis viorna, or the ‘Vase Vine’, is a deciduous climber that can be companion planted with a climbing hydrangea against a wall or a trellis. This clematis variety thrives in partial shade just like hydrangea and produces stunning pink and purple bell-shaped flowers from April to September. These small flowers would provide a little pop of colour to complement the hydrangea’s gorgeous flowering clusters. If you have a trellis or structure behind your shrubs or border then consider this Clematis variety a reliable pick. 17) Siebold’s Plantain Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Hosta sieboldiana HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread Perfect for a particularly shady spot, hostas are hardy perennials that will make a great addition to many planting schemes. This particular cultivar, Hosta sieboldiana, produces large, heart-shaped, green leaves that have wavy veins and edges. If you want a plant that will hold its own whilst highlighting and showing off any surrounding blooms, this large-foliage plant is definitely worth considering. 18) Blue Fescue BOTANICAL NAME: Festuca glauca HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: grass FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: green FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Blue Fescue is the second grass-like plant on this list, and, just like Eulalia, is great for pairing with (and complementing) hydrangeas. With silvery-blue and green foliage, this evergreen is great for planting in garden borders or for filling space in your garden beds. It is a relatively unfussy plant, but it does require plenty of sunshine, so make sure you don’t plant it in an area that is too shaded. 19) Common Yew BOTANICAL NAME: Taxus baccata HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: tree FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 12m in height, 8m spread To finish off this list, I’ve chosen a large tree that is often used for hedging – the common yew. This tree can reach over 12m in height but can be pruned and shaped to your preferred height. As a fully hardy, low-maintenance evergreen, this is the best planted behind hydrangeas as a stunning backdrop to its beautiful blooms. With gorgeous red berries appearing in autumn, this coniferous tree is truly a delight and would make a brilliant addition to any existing flowering display.
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Grow Pittosporum ‘Cheesewood’ As Prized Specimen Shrubs Or Formal Hedgerows
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Pittosporum Pittosporum Plant Care References Pittosporums or ‘Cheesewood’ are evergreen shrubs or hedgerow plants which come in a wide range of shapes and sizes. These useful evergreen shrubs are prized for their glossy evergreen leaves and can make great specimen shrubs, simple topiary plants, or formal hedgerows. Although they are not suitable for all UK gardens, where the conditions are right, they can be a highly attractive addition. Overview Botanical Name Pittosporum Common Name Cheesewood Plant Type Shrub Native Area Australia, East Asia and parts of Africa Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen When To Plant May-September When To Prune May-August Pittosporum is a genus of around 200 species found throughout Australasia, Oceania, eastern Asia and parts of Africa.1 They are also commonly grown in gardens throughout subtropical and temperate zones, though some are also grown as bonsai plants indoors. Common Varieties When choosing a pittosporum to grow in your garden, the size to which it will eventually grow is one of the key considerations. Pittosporums are usefully grouped into smaller compact shrubs which grow 1-2m tall, and medium to large shrubs. Some compact pittosporum, which are good for small borders, low hedges or containers, are: P. tenuifolium ‘Silver Queen’ P. tenuifolium ‘Country Park Dwarf’ P. tenuifolium ‘French Lace’ P. tenuifolium ‘Gold Ball’ P. tenuifolium ‘Irene Paterson’ P. tenuifolium ‘Silver Queen’ Some larger pittosporums for larger borders or higher hedging include: P. tenuifolium ‘Elizabeth’ P. tenuifolium ‘Abbotsbury Gold’ P. tenuifolium ‘Elizabeth’ P. tenuifolium ‘Oliver Twist’ P. tenuifolium ‘Wendle Channon’ How To Grow Pittosporum If you know someone with a pittosporum you admire in their garden, you could consider collecting the sticky seeds when the capsules break open, cleaning away the sticky coating and sowing in pots or trays of seed compost at 12-15°C. However, it is worth noting that the plants which grow from these seeds may not look the same as the plant from which the seeds came, especially if you are dealing with a variety that has coloured or variegated leaves. If you do decide to persist, you will also have to be patient, as germination will take a couple of months. Most people will purchase plants to place in their gardens, but it should be noted that taking cuttings is another option for propagation. We’ll talk about propagating pittosporum from cuttings a little later in this guide. Pittosporum Plant Care Pittosporum can be relatively easy to care for, but it is important to understand the conditions they require and to place them in a suitable spot. Overwintering Most pittosporums are H4 hardy. However, others, such as P. tobira, are conservatory plants, which must be grown inside over winter – though they may be able to go out over the summer months. Aspect Pittosporum will do best in a sheltered position in full sun or light shade. It is important to make sure that the plants are protected from harsh, cold winds and not placed in frost pockets. Variegated varieties will keep their colour best in a site which is as sunny as possible. Soil Requirements Pittosporums need well-drained soil, so any soil type which does not become too waterlogged can be suitable. Compact cultivars grown in containers should be grown in a suitable free-draining medium and the container should have good drainage. Make sure the soil or growing medium is rich in organic matter for moisture retention. Pruning Pittosporum should be pruned in mid-spring for single specimen shrubs. Aim to prune out vigorous shoots which sprout out from the outline of the foliage, and try to develop a strong central stem and an enhancement of the plant’s natural shape. For hedges and topiary shapes, prune between the middle of spring and late summer. Give the plants 2-3 cuttings during the growing season, pruning for the last time by the end of August. Propagating Pittosporum can be somewhat reluctant to root, so using a rooting hormone is recommended to improve rooting results. The best option is to take semi-ripe cuttings in the late summer or early autumn. The cuttings should be around 6-8cm long and should be placed in pots filled with a suitably moist (yet free-draining) medium in a cool but frost-free spot – until they are planted out the following year. Young shoots can also be layered in spring, though this is typically a more difficult propagation method. Common Problems Pittosporum is usually relatively trouble-free if grown in the right spot and cared for correctly. Powdery mildew may affect the foliage but won’t usually need to be controlled. “Pittosporums can be prone to frost damage, so I advise not planting them in frost pockets or exposed conditions,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “During the first autumn or winter and late spring frosts, I use horticultural fleece to protect young plants and those grown in pots.” Plants grown indoors may be affected by common issues like red spider mites and scale insects. References 1. Cheesewoods (Genus Pittosporum). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/51597-Pittosporum
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18 Cordyline Types - 'Do You Want A Lower-Growing Conical Plant Or A Tree Shape?'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) C. australis 2) C. indivisa 3) C. australis ‘Atropurpurea’ 4) C. australis ‘Red Star’ 5) C. australis ‘Torbay Dazzler’ 6) C. australis ‘Albertii’ 7) C. ‘Southern Splendour’ 8) C. australis ‘Red Sensation’ 9) C. fruticosa ‘Red Edge’ 10) C. ‘Cha Cha’ 11) C. fruticosa ‘Kiwi’ 12) C. fruticosa ‘New Guinea Black’ 13) C. fruticosa ‘Amabilis’ 14) C. fruticosa ‘Rumba’ 15) C. fruticosa ‘Firebrand’ 16) C. banksii ‘Electric Pink’ 17) C. petiolaris 18) C. congesta References Though cordylines are denizens of temperate and subtropical locales, they are very much at home in many regions of the UK where they are valued for their richly-hued evergreen foliage. Most cordylines come in cool tones and restrained hues and even the reds and purples are of bronzy or slate shades rather than vivid ones. Where the outdoor cordylines are concerned, these evergreens, whose coloured sword-shaped leaves are the main attraction, produce lots of tiny flowers in blush white, cream, or yellow. Cordyline houseplants, more reserved and more foliage-centric, do not produce flowers. However, the random variegation, gradations, and colour shifts of their leaves more than compensate. “When choosing a Cordyline, you should first decide whether you would like to grow it solely outdoors, outdoors over the summer months or as a houseplant,” says Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer in Horticulture. “Cordyline fruticosa is a houseplant species, not suited to planting outdoors, and many of the more brightly coloured Cordylines of other species prefer being brought indoors over winter. “In my experience, the species C. australis is the hardiest. “The more hardy varieties also tend to produce a solid trunk below the foliage, whereas I find this happens less often or more slowly with coloured leaf cultivars, so think about your long-term hopes for the plant. “Consider whether you want a lower-growing conical plant or a tree shape.” Underneath we introduce eighteen amazing cordyline varieties that are evenly split between the larger varieties that are effectively small trees and the smaller ones that make vibrant houseplants. 1) C. australis COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm FOLIAGE: green FLOWERS: cream and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread The species plant, Cordyline australis is not a glamour cultivar but it is the original model. It can attain the greatest heights, up to 6m and more, though members in the wild have grown considerably taller, and it is also hardier than its rating of H3 suggests. The sword-shaped leaves are stiff and erect and are a lovely shade of sea green. This tree has a proper trunk instead of a stem and its leaves could be mistaken for green scimitars. In summer, the species produces dense sprays of tiny white flowers, which bees adore. Back home in New Zealand, it has long been of much cultural significance to the indigenous Maori People.1 The Cabbage Tree and its cultivars are grown throughout Europe. 2) C. indivisa COMMON NAME(S): mountain cabbage tree FOLIAGE: blue and green FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread C. indivisa can reach a height of nearly 4m. The mountain cabbage tree’s foliage is very special in its own right as though the leaves are a solid tone, that tone is a distinctly bluish hue of green. Also, its sword-shaped leaves are relatively broad, measuring 20-30cm, and display a prominent dusky midrib. It produces clusters of tiny white flowers followed by purple berries. 3) C. australis ‘Atropurpurea’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘atropurpurea’ FOLIAGE: bronze and purple FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread One of the more architectural varieties because of its size and shades, ‘Atropurpurea’ can reach heights of 6m and more. Many of its stiff, sword-shaped leaves are yellowish-green, but quite a number are of a purplish bronze tone, for they undergo colour shifts as they age and as the seasons change. It is used as an architectural plant both outdoors and indoors; as a houseplant, it is pruned whereas outdoors it can be allowed to attain its natural height near walls or structures. It produces tiny creamy flowers in the summer. 4) C. australis ‘Red Star’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘red star’ FOLIAGE: cream, red and bronze FLOWERS: cream and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread One of the not-so-big C. australis cultivars, ‘Red Star’ can reach a height of 3m but can be kept sufficiently compact when grown in a container. It is also an excellent choice for an elegantly understated border. That’s because its narrow strap-like leaves fan out and are of a dull, coppery red colour that is accented by yellow and cream stripes and tips. 5) C. australis ‘Torbay Dazzler’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘torbay dazzler’ FOLIAGE: green and white SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread The aptly-named ‘Torbay Dazzler’ is just that. It grows to only about 3m with a relatively narrow spread. The 60cm leaves are also similarly narrow, making it among the most ribbony of cordylines. These lanky ribbons are dazzlingly variegated and longitudinally striped. The cool green middle is centred with a line of rust-red and bordered by white and cream. 6) C. australis ‘Albertii’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘albertii’ FOLIAGE: green, yellow and pink FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread A larger model, ‘Albertii’ can eventually hit 6m or so and develop a proper trunk. It may also produce proper branches that grow from scimitar-like narrow leaves that are densely packed and feature attractive, relatively thick yellow edging. Emerging leaves add further colour as they have a pinkish flush. Mature trees bear tiny white flowers in summer. 7) C. ‘Southern Splendour’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘southern splendour’ FOLIAGE: pink and green FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread An atypical C. australis, ‘Southern Splendour’ is not so much cool as it is vibrant and warm, at least relatively speaking. Eventually forming a little tree of around 3m, this cultivar’s ribbony arcing leaves have a dusky green base with fine lengthwise stripes and lines in pink-red, slate red, cream and orange. This cultivar makes a terrific container specimen. 8) C. australis ‘Red Sensation’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘red sensation’ FOLIAGE: bronze FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread One of the largest options, ‘Red Sensation’ rises to 6m and can grow taller. It rarely branches out, preferring to shoot upwards. Its stiff, sword-shaped leaves are a very deep bronzy-purple. In summer, there is floral interest as this cultivar bears copious quantities of tiny cream-coloured flowers in thick clusters. 9) C. fruticosa ‘Red Edge’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘red edge’ FOLIAGE: red, white and green SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing a touch over 1m tall, ‘Red Edge’ makes a wonderful houseplant, but is not suited to life outdoors. The elliptical-to-lanceolate leaves are a classic leafy green with fine white striping and red bordering and are often quite thick. The particular shade of red is very appealing and bright, yet soft. 10) C. ‘Cha Cha’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘cha cha’ FOLIAGE: green, bronze and cream SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Though it does not descend from C. fruticosa, ‘Cha Cha’ is perfect for a houseplant or patio plant, reaching up to 2m in height. The lily-like leaves are long and narrow and the outer ones arc and sway very appealingly. Young leaves have a bronze tone while mature leaves are brilliantly variegated in stripes of cool green and bright yellow. 11) C. fruticosa ‘Kiwi’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘kiwi’ FOLIAGE: green, pink and yellow SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Rising to just over 1m and a popular houseplant, ‘Kiwi’ is an evergreen with a laid-back charm. That’s because its lanceolate leaves are in shades of light and bright green, merging and melding with pastel and bright yellows with a touch of pink at the margins. For me, this is the most gentle and soothing choice if that is what you want for your indoor spaces. 12) C. fruticosa ‘New Guinea Black’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘new guinea black’ FOLIAGE: black and purple SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Among the most striking of the cordyline houseplants, ‘New Guinea Black’ is a serious decor play. That’s because this cultivar has a relatively narrow spread and its lanceolate foliage is essentially black, whilst the leaves display gradations of forest green, deep purple, and black. 13) C. fruticosa ‘Amabilis’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘amabilis’ FOLIAGE: bronze, white and pink SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Also growing to a little over 1m, what makes ‘Amabilis’ a bit different is its relatively broader leaves, which appear as if they have been painted, for on the very light green background one sees streaks, strokes, and daubs of pinkish red in shades from pastel to bright. Ideal for an artist’s studio or creative space! 14) C. fruticosa ‘Rumba’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘rumba’ FOLIAGE: green, red and pink SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread One of the newer cultivars, ‘Rumba’ is one of the bushier varieties and has abundant lanceolate foliage. The colour is an unusually deep and smoky green set off with rust-red tones and flushes. The final touch is a bright pink edge running around the leaves and often extending to their stalks. 15) C. fruticosa ‘Firebrand’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘firebrand’ FOLIAGE: pink and purple SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Probably taller than the other cultivars and able to rise to 2m with a bushy habit, ‘Firebrand’ breaks the cool mould and is a comparatively intense option. The lanceolate foliage is of a wonderfully deep, smoky purple maroon on the older leaves while the newer leaves are a popping shade of burgundy. 16) C. banksii ‘Electric Pink’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘electric pink’ FOLIAGE: gold and pink SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Forming clumps and tufts of long and narrow strap-like arcing leaves, ‘Electric Pink’ lives up to its name and is surely an outlier among the smaller cordylines because of its vivid hues. Leaves are a deep smoky reddish-green along the centre but are truly an electric shade of red-pink along the edges, as are the newer leaves. This variety attains a height of about 1.5m. Lesser-known cordyline plants worth a look are: 17) C. petiolaris 18) C. congesta References 1. Part VIII — The Genus Cordyline. (n.d.). Maori Agriculture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly/tei-BesAgri-t1-body-d8.html
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Planting Out Saxifraga Bulbs In Autumn - They Work In Pots Or As Ground Cover
IN THIS GUIDE When To Plant 1) Source Your Bulbs 2) Prepare The Growing Area 3) Plant Your Bulbs 4) Water In Well Saxifraga is a genus of flowering plants commonly known as ‘Saxifrages’ or ‘Rockfoils’. There are hundreds of species in this genus, many of which are useful and versatile plants to grow in containers, in a rockery, a dry meadow, or in an alpine garden scheme. They are mostly mat-forming in their growth habit and create a good ground cover. Saxifraga bulbs are best planted in pots between September and early November. “Most Saxifrage species are perennial but some are biennial or annual,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “The bulb species are spring-flowering woodland plants and are great for underplanting or for pots and containers.” If you would like to grow Saxifraga varieties from bulbs, here is the process to follow: Select a variety to grow and source your bulbs. Prepare a suitable container or growing area. Plant the Saxifraga bulbs 2-3cm deep and approximately 10cm apart. Water in well, then, if growing in containers, leave outdoors in pots to flower the following spring or early summer, or transplant young pot-grown plants to the garden in spring. When To Plant Saxifraga bulbs should be planted in the autumn, ideally in September or October. You can plant them up until December, though it’s important to note that the bulbs you keep will not store and remain viable into a second year. 1) Source Your Bulbs There are a number of different saxifraga bulbs that you might choose to grow in your garden; selecting which bulbs to grow is the first part of the process. One excellent option that I would recommend for a low-maintenance location with free-draining conditions is S. granulata ‘Flore Pleno’. This white-flowered gem can work well in containers, borders, as ground cover around the fringes of a fruit tree guild or forest garden, or in a gravel garden or rockery. 2) Prepare The Growing Area You can plant small Saxifraga bulbs directly into the soil where they are to grow. However, for best results, it is often beneficial to plant these in containers first, since this gives the plants the opportunity to become established without too much competition. Choose a free-draining container (or, if growing in the ground, make sure drainage is adequate) as free-draining conditions are essential. To grow Saxifrages in pots, fill your containers with a peat-free multipurpose compost or a homemade equivalent, amended with horticultural grit to improve drainage. 3) Plant Your Bulbs Next, plant the Saxifraga bulbs. Remember, whether you are planting them in the ground or in containers, they should be placed around 10cm apart from one another, and should be covered with around 2-3cm of soil. 4) Water In Well Finally, water your Saxifraga in well after planting your bulbs. After this, you are unlikely to have to water over the winter months. Just make sure, come spring, that you water if there is a dry spell where you live. Generally, these low-maintenance plants will tend to themselves when growing outdoors and will require very little ongoing care. When placed in a suitable location, plants should bloom well over the coming years.
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