Growing
Here's Why David Gressley Is In Favour Of Deadheading Spent Lilac Blooms
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Deadhead Lilac? When To Deadhead Lilac Deadheading Guidelines Lilac can be a wonderfully low-maintenance plant to grow in many gardens. Though not native, it can be a boon for native wildlife, and when in bloom, many species and cultivars can fill your space with a delightful scent and will look lovely too. One question that you might have is whether you need to deadhead lilac, and if so, how you should do so. I’ve shared all you need to know about deadheading lilacs in the rest of this guide: Do You Need To Deadhead Lilac? Syringa vulgaris, common lilac, does not really need to be deadheaded at all, and whether you do so or not will largely come down to a matter of personal preference. It will depend on whether you are the type of gardener who likes to let nature take the reins or someone who wishes to keep everything neater and more under control. Some people believe that deadheading lilac will lead to better blooming the following year, but this is simply not the case. Whether you deadhead or not, flowering the following year will not be affected, so deadheading is usually for your own benefit, rather than for the plant. Some people simply prefer not to look at the brown flower heads once they have faded and remove them for aesthetic reasons. “Whether you deadhead or don’t is partly down to the temperament of the gardener but also to the style of the planting,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For example, a formal planting will benefit from deadheading whilst it might detract from a naturalistic planting.” “I am in favour of deadheading spent lilac blooms if they are not being hybridised for their seed,” says David Gressley, the Vice President of the US division of the International Lilac Society. “The benefit of deadheading lilacs is purely aesthetic unless a plant is under stress, which will prevent the expenditure of plant energy into seed production that will otherwise contribute to plant defence and its energy reserves.” As David touches on, there are only a couple of times when you might wish to deadhead for more than aesthetic reasons. Most lilacs bloom once, for a short period in late spring or early summer each year, but a few cultivars can bloom a second time in late summer or early autumn. Deadheading a repeat flowering lilac can be beneficial because it can make sure that the plant puts its energy into producing more flowers in the current season rather than going to seed. With some lilacs, you might also like to deadhead as part of more general pruning, to reduce the size of your shrub or rejuvenate an older plant without losing flowers next year. When To Deadhead Lilac If you do decide to deadhead lilac, wait until the flowering panicles have turned brown and then cut them off the plant. This will typically be in July for most lilacs. Deadheading Guidelines If you are deadheading for aesthetic reasons or to encourage repeat blooming on certain specific lilac cultivars, then you can simply snip off the flowering panicles with a pair of clean, sharp secateurs. If you wish to undertake some pruning at the same time to reduce the size of the plant or rejuvenate an older shrub, you can, instead of just cutting off the stems below the flowers, cut further down at the base of the branches. As you can tell from the above, this is a simple job that is not always necessary, though easily accomplished when it is.
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Aubergines Should Be Fed And Watered Profusely For Plump Fruit (But Not Kept Soggy)
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Feeding References Known as the eggplant in America, the aubergine thrives in very warm and humid conditions – which is unsurprising as it originates from South Central China and South East Asia.1 In India, it’s known by yet a third name – Brinjal.2 No matter what we call it, this vegetable is technically a berry and, therefore, a fruit, even though it is most often used as a vegetable here in the UK. “Aubergines are best grown under glass but can also be grown in a warm, sunny and sheltered spot outside if the soil has been warmed beforehand and the plants fleeced for a short period after planting out,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. You might be wondering how you can help feed aubergine as it grows. In this guide, we’ll share everything you need to know about watering and fertilising your aubergine plants so they can stay happy and healthy whilst growing in your garden. Watering Aubergines should be grown in free-draining soil that is kept moist but not soggy. These plants need regular watering and may require daily watering in hot weather. The soil should be made moist down to about 15cm. Before watering, it would be advisable to check the soil down to a depth of 3-4cm to determine if it is dry or moist. If you observe the leaves curling or the plant wilting during warm weather, that’s probably a sign that the soil is insufficiently moist. Instead of the usual and customary cold water, use tepid water for these warm-weather plants that have no resistance to the cold. Another departure from the norm is in wetting the foliage, as these plants would enjoy a daily spray of tepid water on their leaves. This will deter pests, particularly red spider mites, to which the plant is susceptible. Feeding Feeding is key to growing plump and rich aubergines and the best start is to grow them in rich, fertile soil. When sowing seeds, use a low-nutrient or seed-sowing compost and when transplanting young plants, use a multi-purpose compost and a balanced fertiliser to grow them on. When planted in their final positions, start to feed with a high-potash fertiliser as soon as you see vegetables beginning to form. For an easier application, you could use a liquid formula. Feed Aubergine plants with this fertiliser once every 2 weeks by pouring it onto the soil to encourage fruit formation and pick the fruits when they are a bright, glossy and deep purple or black colour. References 1. Solanum melongena. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/solanum-melongena/#:~:text=This%20species%20is%20native%20to,eggplant%20is%20considered%20an%20annual 2. Why Is It Called an Eggplant? (2019, August 20). Wonderopolis. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.wonderopolis.org/wonder/why-is-it-called-an-eggplant
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Here's When To Sow Pansy Seeds So They Flower At Different Times Of Year
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Pansies Considerations Before Sowing How To Sow Pansy Seeds Popular and easy to grow, pansies can really cheer up a garden. Viola x wittrockiana can bloom through much of the year if you choose the right varieties and sow them at the right times, though pansies are especially useful for autumn and winter flowering. Here are the basic things you need to know if you would like to grow pansies from seed: When To Sow Pansies When you will sow pansy seeds depends on when you want them to bloom. Pansies sown indoors between February and April will bloom through the late spring and summer months. Those sown between May and July will flower over the autumn and winter. Considerations Before Sowing Before sowing pansy seeds you will, of course, have to think about preparing an area to do so. It is easiest to start pansies indoors as the seeds germinate best at temperatures between 18-24°C. You may find that you have better germination rates with a heated propagator, but this is in no way essential and I’ve always found a covered tray on a windowsill or in a greenhouse will work just fine as long as they’re kept out of the direct sun. Prepare a seed tray, soil blocks or small pots to sow your pansy seeds and fill the chosen container with good quality, peat-free, seed-starting compost that is moist and not waterlogged. How To Sow Pansy Seeds Press the pansy seeds into the surface of the growing medium, then cover them with a thin layer of compost or vermiculite and water them in well. Make sure that, as soon as the seeds germinate, your seedlings get plenty of light and are placed in a bright spot out of direct sunlight. Keep them watered, taking care not to overwater, before planting them out in the garden once they reach a sufficient size and are established. And it really is as simple as that – Pansies are so incredibly straight-forward to grow from seed – just choose when you’d like them to flower and sow by month accordingly.
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Grown From Seed, Spinach Will Take 6-10 Weeks To Reach Maturity - Experts Share How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Spinach 1) Acquire Spinach Seeds 2) Prepare The Final Position 3) Sow Seeds Directly 4) Thin Seedlings To 15cm 5) Keep Growing Conditions Right Widely grown here in the UK, spinach is a tasty vegetable that is easy to grow and care for. Growing spinach from seed is rewarding, but you will need to wait a while for them to grow, as the plants will usually only be ready to harvest after 6-10 weeks from sowing. To grow spinach from seed: Harvest or purchase your seeds. Prepare the soil, ideally looking to sow your spinach plant in its final position. Sow seeds at a depth of 2cm and cover lightly. Thin out the seedlings to a width of at least 15cm. Grow on the young plants, keep free from weeds and prevent bolting. These steps are explained in more detail (with pictures) below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, rake, compost (if growing in pots) When To Prune February to May or September to October When To Sow Spinach True summer spinach is sowed in spring, between March and May, though you can sow indoors or under protection from February onwards before planting outside soon after the last frost date in your area. Note: If you decide to sow indoors, care should be taken over pricking out, hardening off and transplantation. Transplantation shock can sometimes hasten premature bolting, or check the growth of your plants. To reduce strain, you can consider sowing seeds in biodegradable plant pots that you can plant along with the seedlings in your garden to reduce root disturbance. It can then be succession sowed every couple of weeks through spring. True spinach for autumn and overwintering is sown in August and then again in September. Perpetual spinach is also often sown in spring, and again in August or September for year-round growing (when protection is provided in winter in colder areas). It really can provide a harvest every single month of the year. 1) Acquire Spinach Seeds Harvesting your own spinach seeds is relatively easy, as during the height of mid-summer, spinach has a natural tendency to bolt and produce seed. To collect the seeds, allow the plant to produce flowers and subsequent seed heads and wait for them to dry out and turn brown, before harvesting the brown seeds. However, if you do not have a spinach plant to harvest seed from, spinach seed varieties are readily available from most garden centres and online suppliers. 2) Prepare The Final Position Spinach tends to grow best when it is sown directly in its final position, which can either be in the ground or in containers. Spinach prefers to be grown on fertile and moist, but well-drained, soil in partial shade. If growing on poor or heavy soil, adding some home compost or well-rotted manure prior to planting will help increase fertility and improve the soil structure. If planting the seeds directly into the ground, the soil can be prepared by removing any weeds and stones by raking the ground. If growing in containers, drainage holes must be present and a layer of gravel can be added before filling with a rich peat-free multi-purpose compost. 3) Sow Seeds Directly To sow spinach seeds, make a drill 2cm deep and sow the seeds thinly before covering over lightly with soil and watering in gently. If growing rows of spinach, it is advisable to leave a spacing of 30-40cm between rows. When sowing spinach in pots or containers, individual holes 2cm deep can be made to sow seeds where they are to grow before covering them over and watering them. For early sowings, cloches or fleeces can be used to help encourage germination and protect the seedlings. 4) Thin Seedlings To 15cm Keep the soil moist, and once the seeds have germinated, thin the seedlings to 15cm apart to allow those left in the space to mature in size. 5) Keep Growing Conditions Right To grow the young spinach plants on, ensure that the soil is kept weed-free and moist, especially during warmer weather, which will help prevent the plants from bolting. “You will most likely need to water this plant every day during hot weather,” says Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “Time invested in watering and weeding is well rewarded with a constant supply of tasty leaves.” After 6-10 weeks the spinach leaves can either be harvested when young to eat in salads or left to mature in size and used in soups and stir–fry recipes.
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Rosemary Is Best Propagated With Cuttings From Healthy Shoots In Late Summer
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Take Semi-Ripe Cuttings 2) Prepare Plant Cuttings 3) Pot Up Your Rosemary 4) Care For Potted Cuttings 5) Plant Out When Ready Rosemary is an evergreen shrub, commonly cultivated as a culinary herb, that not only tastes good but is also beneficial in a range of other ways in your home and garden. The good news is that if you already have a rosemary plant in your garden, it is very easy to propagate new plants from existing ones. One of the easiest ways to propagate this woody herb is by taking semi-ripe cuttings. In mid to late summer or early autumn: Select healthy shoots and take cuttings 10-15cm in length. Trim the cuttings just below a leaf node and remove the lowest leaves and soft tips. Place cuttings around the edges of pots, filled with a mix of 50% peat-free compost and 50% horticultural sand or grit. Place pots in a warm, bright position out of direct sunlight, and keep the medium moist but not waterlogged. Once they have rooted successfully, pot up the new rosemary plants into their own individual pots or in your garden. See below for a visual demonstration of each of these steps. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs, compost mix, pots or seed tray When To Take Cuttings July to September 1) Take Semi-Ripe Cuttings The best way to propagate woody herbs like rosemary is to take semi-ripe cuttings. This can be done towards the end of the summer or in the early autumn. Cut sections around 10-15cm long from the plants, taking care to select healthy shoots and cutting just below a leaf node. 2) Prepare Plant Cuttings Prepare the rosemary cuttings by removing the lowest leaves and cutting off the soft tip at the top of the cutting you have taken. It is important to deal with cuttings as quickly as possible, to avoid too much moisture loss. With this in mind, try to take cuttings only when you can prepare and pot them up right away. If you wish, you can also dip the ends of the rosemary cuttings into a rooting hormone to improve the chances that they will root successfully, but rosemary is typically fairly reliable to root without this step. 3) Pot Up Your Rosemary Prepare pots filled with a cuttings medium made up of 50% peat-free compost and 50% sand or grit to improve drainage. “I find that adding grit is essential for Rosemary cuttings to root reliably,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Too much moisture will cause the stems to rot, so make sure that your compost is sharply draining.” Place 5 or so rosemary cuttings around the sides of each pot. 4) Care For Potted Cuttings With rosemary, it is best not to cover your cuttings, but make sure that they do not dry out. Keep them in a light, bright spot that is relatively warm, but out of direct sunlight. Water consistently, but take care not to overwater since rosemary cannot tolerate waterlogged conditions that might cause the cuttings to rot before they get the chance to root successfully. Semi-ripe rosemary cuttings will typically root successfully within a month or two. 5) Plant Out When Ready Once the rosemary cuttings have rooted successfully, pot up each individual cutting into its own individual pot. These are typically kept indoors or undercover at least during their first winter, to give the plants a chance to establish themselves well. In spring, you can harden off and transplant these indoor-grown plants to your garden, or you can choose to continue to grow them in containers, either to be placed out into your garden or grown indoors year-round. As you can see, growing rosemary from cuttings is a very easy and straightforward process. So, once you have some rosemary in your home or garden, you should have no problem getting more.
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Harvest Runner Beans For Their Leaves, Pods Or Seeds - 'Try And Pick Under 10cm'
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Runner Beans Harvesting Young Leaves Harvesting Beans For Pods Harvesting Beans For Seed Storing Beans References Runner beans can be an excellent choice for both ornamental and food-producing gardens. If you grow them successfully, you will need to make sure that you know when and how to harvest them to make sure that none of the vegetables goes to waste. Read on for more information about when and how to harvest runner beans. When To Harvest Runner Beans The main runner bean harvest takes place, depending on the particular variety you are growing, between July and October. The more assiduous you are in picking the beans promptly, the longer your harvest period will be and the more runner beans you will get. However, it is worth noting that as well as harvesting the pods for use as a green vegetable as is the norm here in the UK, you can also consider harvesting a few young leaves to use in soups or stews earlier in the season. You can even hold off harvesting to get seed beans from inside mature pods that can be used as a pulse. Harvesting Young Leaves While you should not eat the leaves raw, cooked young runner bean leaves make a perfectly palatable cooked green or pot herb that you might add in moderation in place of or alongside other cooked greens in a range of recipes.1 While this is not likely to be a major harvest, you might think about taking a few leaves here and there before the main harvesting period arrives. Harvesting Beans For Pods The primary harvest can begin from July, depending on what variety you chose and when you sowed the seeds. It is very important to keep an eye on your runner beans and to harvest the pods promptly before they are fully mature, as once the runner bean pods mature fully, no further beans will be produced and the harvest will be smaller. “Young bean pods are also far less stringy than more mature ones,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I try and pick whilst they are under 10cm or so to try and optimise the tenderness of the pods.” It is important, for a prolonged harvest of the runner beans as a green vegetable, to pick the pods quickly when they reach around 15-20cm long, but before they start to round out and develop the seeds inside. To pick the pods, simply snap these off the plant, taking care not to dislodge the plants from their support or break the main stems. You will likely have to check over your plant every few days to make sure that you get them all and make sure that the plant continues to produce new pods. Once you have harvested the pods, these are typically chopped and, where necessary, de-stringed before they are cooked and eaten. You can also freeze them very easily for later use to make sure that none of them go to waste. Harvesting Beans For Seed The only time that you might not wish to harvest the pods is if you are growing a variety for the seeds, as the beans that form inside the pods can also be cooked, eaten and dried for use as a pulse. Some varieties are more commonly used in this way than others, so you may wish to seek out a cultivar that is particularly suited to use as a pulse. When collecting the seeds from inside the pods, you will have to wait for them to mature fully. These seeds can then be saved to plant the following year, or thoroughly dried and stored for use as a pulse. Storing Beans The easiest way to cook is to top and tail the ends, remove the edges and slice lengthways with a sharp knife into thin strands before boiling or steaming for 3-4 minutes until tender. You can even purchase a bean slicer that will slice and string the beans for you, speeding up this task even further. Runner beans freeze well, which is great, as you may well have more than you can eat fresh and there is nothing more satisfying than filling the freezer with homegrown produce to see you through winter. To freeze prepare the beans and blanche or add to a pan of boiling water for 2-3 minutes. Then transfer to a bowl of cold water until completely cool, drain and freeze in suitable amounts. Once frozen, they will keep for up to 6 months. “At Edible Bristol, we dry a lot of our bean crops and save a lot of their seeds,” shares Edible Bristol’s Founder Sara Venn. “We’ve made our own drying rack out of old coffee bags, which is really useful for drying out the seeds.” References 1. Bountiful beans. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/runner-beans-kitchen-garden
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Growers Share Their Tips For Harvesting Lavender Sprigs (And Which Stems To Cut)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose When To Harvest 2) Pick Your Stems 3) Harvest Sprigs Cleanly 4) Use Immediately Or Dry & Store Lavender is a woody shrub that is available in hundreds of varieties and virtually all of them are free-blooming plants which can be harvested the same way. The actual cutting of the stems is easy, but the tricky part is knowing when to harvest and just which stems to cut. “How and when we harvest lavender depends on how it’s going to be used,” says Julia Snowball from Yorkshire Lavender. Underneath we explain these tricky parts in a four-step harvesting process: Choose the ideal time to harvest for the best yield and plant recovery. Pick the right sprigs to snip when in bloom. Harvest the lavender using secateurs or gardening scissors. Use your lavender sprigs immediately in a vase or dry and store them for later use. This process is explained in more depth in each of the below steps. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, mini secateurs, wicker basket When To Harvest Spring or summer 1) Choose When To Harvest Keep observing your lavender plants as soon they start to form buds. This can be any time from mid-spring to mid-summer depending on your variety and climate. When to harvest will depend on what you’re harvesting for, says Nick and Lyndsay Butler, the owners of Lavender Fields in Hampshire. “In the garden, if you are looking to dry lavender bunches, these are best picked when they are looking their best during flowering. “For loose lavender that will be used for things like lavender bags, it is better to wait for the lavender to start to turn grey. “This means that the lavender will have built up more oil in the flowers and will provide a better aroma.” Julia has similar rules for harvesting: “For culinary lavender, we cut the flowers just before they are fully open,” she says. “For extracting the essential oil, we want to harvest the lavender just after the flowers have gone over, as at this stage, the oil content is at its highest. “However, for craft work, we cut the lavender just before the flowers have gone over.” Alternatively, for harvesting loose lavender, when you see that around 40% of the buds have flowered, it is time to harvest your lavender. “In the garden, wait until a third of the flowers have opened and gone over, a third are open and a third are yet to open before picking lavender for drying,” says Charlie Byrd, owner of Cotswold Lavender. “This generally gives the best results and scent.” 2) Pick Your Stems Harvest lavender in the early morning and no later than mid-morning, if the plants are in a location where they get morning sun. On each plant, select stalks that mostly have buds opening into flowers. Do not select stalks with only buds or only flowers in full bloom. Make sure you don’t take too many from any one plant. 3) Harvest Sprigs Cleanly Cut each stalk with a pair of mini secateurs, or scissors if you prefer, making a clean cut with a single snip. Stems should be cut 5-6cm above the woody part so that 2-3 sets of leaves and some green stems are left behind. “I commonly get asked to rescue straggly lavender,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Unfortunately, the plant won’t regenerate from a cut woody stem, so often it’s a case of removing the plant and replanting. “This should be followed up with annual pruning, just above the woody section, to keep the plant vigorous and orderly.” 4) Use Immediately Or Dry & Store If your lavender has been harvested for immediate use, for floral decoration or for culinary dishes, the stalks can go straight into a vase or be put in a pail of cold water. Otherwise, the lavender flowers will need to be dried. “Spread the stems on a well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight for drying,” says Charlie. Lay out the stems loosely on a sheet of newspaper or a shelf with an open design in a cool, dark and dry room. Alternatively, you can tie stems to make small bunches using twine or a rubber band, and hang them vertically from the stems, flower side down, as Julia shares: “We make small bunches of the cut stems and hang them in a cool, dark and airy place until completely dry,” says Julia. Nick and Lyndsay also recommend this method: “Hang your lavender bunches upside down at room temperature for 3-4 weeks. Do not dry them in an airing cupboard, as they will dry too quickly and go very brittle.” After the flowers are thoroughly dry, they may be cut from the stems and stored. “Once dry, you can rub the flowers from the stems and use them for potpourri or lavender bags,” Charlie suggests. After the flowers are thoroughly dry, they may be cut from the stems and stored. One way to store them is in airtight mason jars. Be sure that the flowers are well and truly dry, as sealing and storing damp flowers will likely lead to mould and decay. “Always keep dried lavender in a cool, dry place,” says Julia.
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Celosia 'Woolflower': An Ornamental Plant You Can Use In A Food-Producing Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Celosia Ongoing Celosia Care References Celosias are flowers that people tend to either love or loathe, due to their rather unusual flowers and distinctive appearance. They are intriguing and dramatic ornamentals that can create quite a show in a summer garden or as houseplants indoors. Overview Botanical Name Celosia Common Name(s) Woolflower Plant Type Annual Native Area Central & South America, Africa, Arabian Peninsula Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Large plume-like inflorescences or ‘cockscombs’ in many hues When To Plant May to July A tender, herbaceous annual plant hailing from tropical climes, Celosia argentea is one of a small number of species within the Celosia genus. In the UK, we tend to think of this as an ornamental flower, but since it has edible potential, it could be an interesting choice not only for flower beds and borders in summer, or for containers, but also for a food-producing garden.1 “The young plant produces spinach-tasting leaves before flowering, however, after this time, they taste bitter,” explains Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol.2 The plant is believed to have originated in tropical Africa, though it has now spread throughout many tropical and subtropical regions. Common Varieties Some common celosia varieties grown in the UK include: Celosia argentea var. cristata (Plumosa Group), with named cultivars including: ‘Dragon’s Breath’ (AGM) ‘Fresh Look Orange’ (AGM) While ‘Century Rose’ (AGM) and ‘Glow Red’ (AGM) are two other popular cultivars. Celosia argentea (Spicata Group) is yet another popular choice: ‘Flamingo Feather’ (AGM) There are, of course, plenty of other named cultivars to choose from, including dwarf varieties and yellow varieties, amongst many more. How To Grow Celosia Celosia is in some ways a relatively easy plant to grow. It can be grown indoors or outdoors in containers, or outside in your garden as long as it is provided with a suitable spot. Propagating Celosia can be grown from seed, which you should sow indoors in early spring. However, should you wish to grow celosia from seed, you are likely to require a heated propagator, as a temperature between 20-25°C is required for germination. The seeds should ideally be sown into individual, biodegradable plant pots, soil blocks, or toilet roll tubes so you can plant these out into your garden easily without disturbing the roots. Fill your biodegradable pots or make soil blocks with moist, seed-starting compost mixed with perlite or an equivalent to a ratio of around 2:1. Place your seeds on the surface of this, then cover them lightly with a thin layer of this mix. Grow your seedlings indoors before hardening them off and planting them out in your garden (if you are growing outside) in early summer. If you decide to forgo this step, you can also purchase pot-grown celosias in early summer from a plant nursery or garden centre. Ongoing Celosia Care The most important thing to remember when caring for celosias is that these plants hail from tropical climes, so they do require additional care to make sure that they receive the right growing conditions to succeed in the UK. Overwintering Celosia are H2 hardy. This means that they can cope with cold temperatures, but will not survive temperatures that dip below 1°C. They can typically survive outdoors in the British summer in the right spot, but won’t during the winter here in the UK. For them to grow successfully, it is very important to make sure that celosias have a position in full sun that is sheltered from harsh winds. A west or south-facing aspect is often ideal. Preferred Soil When growing in the soil in a garden, celosias will do well in chalk, loam or sand. They require moist but well-drained conditions, so you should avoid growing them in heavy clay or soil with a tendency to become waterlogged. When it comes to soil pH, these plants are far less fussy and will tolerate acidic, neutral or alkaline soils. The most important thing is good drainage, so aim to ensure that waterlogging and overly-damp conditions are avoided. Watering & Feeding Celosias do not like the soil or growing medium to dry out entirely, so, whilst you should keep the soil or potting mix moist, you should take care not to overwater. While the plants are in flower, especially if you are growing your plants in containers, it is best to feed your celosias with an organic liquid plant feed rich in potassium every couple of weeks or so. Deadheading Though not essential, you can cut off faded flowers to keep the plant tidy and encourage the formation of further blooms. However, it is worth noting that the flowers might actually be harvested before this stage since these blooms have absolutely wonderful cut flowers. Once dried, these blooms will keep their colour for at least half a year or so. Common Problems The most common problems encountered when growing celosias relate to poor drainage or temperatures that are not sufficiently warm. Try to make sure that the plant does not experience temperatures below 5°C, and certainly not below 1°C, and take care to ensure good drainage and watering. Poor drainage or over-watering can lead to yellowing leaves and rotting stems and wilting. Sadly, once plants wilt they are unlikely to recover. When growing celosia indoors, you are more likely to encounter pest problems. Look out for whitefly in particular when growing these plants inside. Self-Seeding Celosia can self-seed prolifically in warmer climates. However, while it may occasionally self-seed in the British Isles, this is not as common in the UK as it can be elsewhere. However, if you keep your celosia in an ideal position in your garden and let them go to seed, you may be rewarded with more plants popping up without the need to sow more the following season. References 1. Celosia (Celosia argentea). (n.d.). World Vegetable Center. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://avrdc.org/celosia-celosia-argentea/ 2. Celosia. (n.d.). UMN Extension. Retrieved May 10, 2023, from https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/celosia
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'Give Zinnias Plenty Of Sunshine And Well-Draining Soil' - Grow Yours With These Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Zinnia Varieties How To Grow Zinnias Zinnia Care References Zinnias are popular annual flowers that really come into their own in the late summer months. Many different zinnias have been bred and make great bedding or container plants. As long as they have plenty of sunshine and well-draining conditions, these delightful plants can thrive in British gardens. Overview Botanical Name Zinnia Plant Type Annual Native Area North and South America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Solitary flower heads in multiple hues When To Sow March to June Flowering Months July to October When To Prune August to October Data collected by Kew Botanic Gardens suggests Zinnias originate from shrubby habitats in North and South America.1 There are a number of different species within this genus (Kew themselves lists 23 accepted varieties) from which hundreds of cultivars have been produced since breeding programs began in the 19th century.2 Today, we can find zinnias in a wide range of colours and with both single and double blooms. There are dwarf types and much taller options on offer. Zinnia Varieties There are so many different zinnias available to grow that we could not possibly name more than a small fraction. However, here are some of the common varieties to consider that are among those that have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit: Z. ‘Profusion White’ Z. ‘Profusion Orange’ Z. elegans ‘Benary’s Giant’ Z. elegans ‘Purple Prince’ Z. elegans ‘Dreamland’ Z. ‘Zany Rose Picotee’ Z. elegans ‘Zowie! Yellow Flame’ When choosing a zinnia, you should think about the colour and form of the flowers, as well as their size and height, which will have a bearing on where they are best placed in your garden. Z. haageana It is also worth noting that some zinnias are more frost or disease-resistant than others, so these can be good choices when the ideal conditions for growing these flowers may be more of a challenge to provide. How To Grow Zinnias The most important thing to remember when growing zinnias is that these are plants that hail from warm and sunny places with well-drained conditions. Of course, not all parts of the British Isles can provide those conditions and some years are better than others when it comes to growing these flowers here. With a lovely warm summer, zinnias can thrive. Zinnias are most commonly grown from seed, but can also be purchased to plant out in your garden. Seeds are usually sown from late April or early May, though in some areas, sowing outside in June may be possible. Planting Out Zinnias, whether grown from seed at home or purchased, should be planted out in a garden only once all danger of risk has passed where you live. In the UK, it is typically safest to wait until late May or early June before you plant them out. How far apart you decide to space your zinnias will depend on your growing schemes and on the size of the variety that you have chosen. To cover the growing area or in a block for bedding, plants are typically spaced around 30-40cm apart. If you are thinking about growing zinnias, then you should also think about how these flowers might be beneficial to your vegetable garden crops. Most zinnias do not produce edible yields, but many varieties will draw in pollinators and other beneficial creatures to aid with growing food successfully. Think about growing zinnias alongside crops that like similar growing conditions. Zinnia Care Preferred Soil Zinnias are not hugely fussy about the type of soil that they are grown in or the pH level. However, they do need free-draining and warm conditions, so it will be much more challenging to grow these plants in soils that are slow to warm and do not drain as well. If you have heavy clay soils, you may have more luck growing zinnias in containers. “I garden on clay and I find that Zinnias struggle to thrive with their roots in it, particularly with prolonged summer wet in the UK,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I prefer to grow them in pots in John Innes No.3 with some added grit. This sharp drainage makes a big difference to the health and growth of the plants.” Position & Sunlight Zinnias will thrive in a south or west-facing aspect in full sun. They need to be provided with as much sun and warmth as possible, so you must choose a suitable location to succeed in growing them successfully. Of course, some summers are better than others for zinnias here in the UK and even in optimal locations, growing these flowers can sometimes still be a little bit hit-and-miss. Watering & Feeding Though zinnias require well-drained and free-draining conditions, they also do require consistent watering throughout the summer months and do not tolerate drying out entirely. Keep zinnias watered in hot weather. When watering, try to keep water off the foliage as much as you can, as damp leaves can cause fungal issues. Zinnias will flower best if you provide them with a high-potassium organic liquid plant feed. Feed them every couple of weeks through the summer. Pinching Out When your zinnias are around 20-30cm tall, it is a good idea to pinch out the central growing tip. Nip it off just above a pair of leaves. This encourages bushy growth and branching that can lead to more flowers. You might sacrifice the first flower to do so but you will typically get more flowers over the course of the season. Staking If you are growing a taller zinnia variety, you may be able to grow them close together to provide some stability. However, if doing this, you may also have to consider staking or some other form of support. Common Problems Zinnias can, unfortunately, be prone to a number of fungal problems, from damping off as seedlings, through to grey moulds and Alternaria blight on more mature specimens. These problems are far more likely to occur in cold and wet conditions. References 1. Zinnia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:332074-2 2. Hazzard, W. (2022, October 1). Zinnia. Plant Breeding Center. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://plantbreeding.ucdavis.edu/zinnia
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