Growing
10 Enchanting Tropaeolum (Nasturtium) Varieties Including Some Lesser Seen Species
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Dwarf Nasturtium 2) Garden Nasturtium 3) ‘Ladybird’ 4) ‘Black Velvet’ 5) ‘Chameleon’ 6) ‘Empress Of India’ 7) Flame Nasturtium 8) Blue Nasturtium 9) Canary Creeper 10) Three-Coloured Nasturtium References Nasturtiums hail from South and Central America and have been introduced to a motley assortment of countries spanning all continents and covering temperate, sub-tropical, and tropical zones.1 The plant’s given name, Tropaeolum, is usually restricted to formal use with the plant being known in the English-speaking world and even elsewhere by its common name ‘Nasturtium’. Genus Tropaeolum comprises just under 100 species (all native to Central and South America).2 From among the many species and cultivars of Tropaeolum we present a top ten list of our favourite varieties, which also turns out to be a fairly diverse and representative selection: 1) Dwarf Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. minus The species that ‘started it all’ in Europe. It is native to Ecuador and Peru, growing at altitude. A trailing, dwarf species, it grows to 30cm with a spread only marginally bigger. It blooms from mid-summer to early autumn and the small, funnel-shaped flowers are a buttercup yellow with darker amber-to-red splotches. 2) Garden Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. majus is native to a swath of land from Colombia to Bolivia. It has a height and spread of 2-2.5m – it too blooms from mid-summer to early autumn. It has open, disk-shaped flowers in deep, rich tones of yellow, orange, and red with sizes ranging from 3-6cm. It is the parent species of some of the most widely-available and popular varieties. 3) ‘Ladybird’ Botanical Name: T. minus ‘Ladybird‘ A cultivar of T. minus that is even shorter at only 20cm. The leaves are very much shield-shaped and the flowers are a cheery yellow with brilliant red ‘ladybird’ spots at the proximal end of each petal. It blooms from early summer into autumn. 4) ‘Black Velvet’ Botanical Name: T. minus ‘Black Velvet’ May not bear actual black flowers but they do have a very dark flush and the deep creases in the petals also create shadows on the flowers whose colour varies from blood red to mahogany. They have a bright yellow centre. This bushy variety is about 30cm high with a similar spread – it blooms from mid-summer into autumn. 5) ‘Chameleon’ Botanical Name: T. majus ‘Chameleon’ A cultivar of T. majus, is also a bushy variety with a height and spread of about 30cm. Its leaves are nearly round and it produces particularly eye-catching flowers. Salver-shaped, they are of a pale yellow colour with large red-to-crimson ‘splatters’ on each petal. As the flower matures it undergoes a chameleon-like colour-shift from yellow to light pink! It blooms from mid-summer into autumn. 6) ‘Empress Of India’ Botanical Name: T. majus ‘Empress of India’ An old heirloom variety. It has a bushy habit with a height and spread of 35-40cm and features wonderfully rounded sea-green leaves. The funnel-shaped flowers range in hue from vermilion through scarlet to crimson, and sometimes develop a purple flush. It blooms from mid-summer into autumn. A superb choice for patios and planters. 7) Flame Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. speciosum Comes from the highlands of Chile and it is well known to grow strongly in the highlands of Scotland, as one of the hardiest varieties, rated to Zone H5. It is of a climbing type and reaches heights from 3-4m. The star-shaped flowers are about 2cm across and, as its name suggests, are of a fiery orange colour. These have especially prominent spurs and this plant is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 8) Blue Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. azureum Blue Nasturtium is also from Chile but this one is not frost-hardy. It is of the less-common summer-dormant type that retains its foliage from autumn through winter into spring, which would lend fantastic colour to the garden because its leaves are of a light, bright green and are palmately lobed. It grows to only about 1m. A short flowering season in spring yields delightful flowers. They are disk- or salver-shaped, and are of a gentle lilac-to-purple hue with a cream centre. 9) Canary Creeper Botanical Name: T. peregrinum Hails from Peru and is a very popular variety in the United States. ‘Canary Creeper’ at one and the same time is a misnomer and is also very apt. This plant is very much of the climbing type; what’s more, it grows to about 3m and can even reach 4m. However, the flowers are a perfect canary yellow and they even bring to mind canary wings, thanks to the narrow, fringed, ‘fluttering’ petals! The deeply lobed leaves are of a rich green hue. 10) Three-Coloured Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. tricolor Surely boasts one of the most uncommon and gorgeous flowers. It is also uncommon as a summer-dormant species. T. tricolor is native to Chile and is a climber, reaching heights of 1-1.5m. The pinnately lobed leaves are of a rich green shade – and as for the small but outrageous blooms, they actually comprise of a pronounced calyx enclosing the flower. The flower is yellow, often with greenish edging, and the calyx is orange-red with purple-to-crimson edging. This species even boasts a long blooming season that lasts from mid-winter to early summer. “Tropaeolum tricolor is my favourite nasturtium, combining an exotic flower first blooming at a time of year you wouldn’t expect to see it,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It needs full sun and a mild location to thrive outdoors or grow in a container on a trellis and move indoors in winter.” Winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Other recommended varieties include: T. majus ‘Hermine Grashoff’ T. majus ‘Alaska’ T. majus ‘Whirlybird’ T. majus ‘Milkmaid’ T. majus ‘Jewel Cherry Rose’ T. tuberosum T. polyphyllum T. leptophyllum T. hookerianum T. austropurpureum. References 1. Crawford, B. (n.d.). Nasturtiums: Great for the Garden and Table. New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://njaes.rutgers.edu/plant-of-the-month/tropaeolum-majus.php 2. Tropaeolum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002592-2
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These 12 Crassula Species And Cultivars Make Fantastic Houseplants For A Bright Spot
IN THIS GUIDE 1) ‘Gollum’ 2) ‘ET’s Fingers’ 3) Tricolour 4) ‘Hummel’s Sunset’ 5) ‘Sunset Magic’ 6) ‘Minova Magic’ 7) ‘Crasmada’ 8) ‘Blue Surprise’ 9) ‘Undulata’ 10) Dwarf Jade Plant 11) ‘Crosby’s Dwarf’ 12) ‘Minima’ References Crassula is native to the South-Eastern part of South Africa and Mozambique, being especially abundant in the Eastern Cape. It was first studied and described in 1768 by British botanists and has been cultivated in Europe and the United States since the 1800s.1 Crassula ovata is only one species of the approximately 200 in the rich and diverse Crassula genus of succulents.2 ‘Campfire’ Crassula This species has between 20-30 cultivars, some of which are quite well-known. “Crassula species and cultivars make fantastic, eye-catching houseplants for a bright spot,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “They are also good as outdoor potted plants in the summer months where the high light levels will produce attractive red colouration of the leaves.” Most are differentiated by the colours, forms, or shapes of their leaves. “My favourite succulent to grow is the Curly Jade Plant (C. arborescens), as this plant shows all the attributes of a perfect succulent” argues Ralph Behrmann from Clouds Hill Succulents. “Its leaves are beautiful light green with blue undertones and develop a red ending in strong sunlight. It is a fast grower for succulents”. Crassula arborescens Here are a few such well-known varieties along with a few less well-known but interesting ones: 1) ‘Gollum’ Also Known As: ‘Monstruosa’ A curiosity that has leaves that are elongated and shaped like narrow tubes, often with red-tinted tips. 2) ‘ET’s Fingers’ Another curiosity that has leaves that are elongated and resemble stubby tubes and have a concavity at the tip which is often tinged with red. The names ‘Gollum’ and ‘E.T.’s Fingers’ are sometimes used interchangeably but these are subtly different cultivars. 3) Tricolour So named for its variegated leaves on which shades of cream, yellow, and green run together and intermingle. 4) ‘Hummel’s Sunset’ This cultivar is distinguished by the rich yellow swaths and shadings on its leaves and yellow and red edging. 5) ‘Sunset Magic’ An eye-catching cultivar whose perfectly ovate and flat leaves are different shades of light green with a thick red bordering that enters into the lamina and intermingles with green. 6) ‘Minova Magic’ This varietal has unusually-shaped leaves: instead of ovate they are spade-like or spatulate and are a dark, deep shade of green. 7) ‘Crasmada’ Patented in 2015, this variety is distinguished by large, dark green leaves that have an upward curl and an incurved margin.3 8) ‘Blue Surprise’ Well, it is not actually blue but the leaves are a striking shade of green, call it slate grey-green with a bluish tinge. Moreover, they are curly and curvy, making this a very distinct cultivar. 9) ‘Undulata’ Also Known As: Jitters; Ripple; Wavy Jade A highly distinct variety, the leaves of this cultivar are emerald green edged with red, they are thinner than normal and sharply wavy with a somewhat crinkly appearance reminding one of lettuce. 10) Dwarf Jade Plant Also Known As: Dwarf Green Similar to the mother species except that, as the name implies, it is a dwarf variety; it attains a maximum height of only 90cm. 11) ‘Crosby’s Dwarf’ Also Known As: Crosby’s Compact As the name suggests, it is both a dwarf and compact, reaching a height of only 90 centimetres. With adequate sunlight, its red-edged leaves become more red, including fully red, than almost all other varieties. 12) ‘Minima’ Similar to the mother species except that this dwarf variety is the smallest and most compact, reaching a maximum height of only 75cm and a width of only 50cm. References 1. Crassula ovata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:273350-1 2. Crassula Archives. (n.d.). Surreal Succulents. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://surrealsucculents.co.uk/product-category/crassula/ 3. Crassula plant named ‘Crasmada.’ (2014, November 27). Google Patents. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://patents.google.com/patent/USPP28426
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Diascia ‘Twinspur’ Growing Guide - A Rock Garden Or Potted Plant Favourite
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Ongoing Care Pruning References Diascia or ’Twinspur’ is a pretty little wildflower from South Africa with very appealing features that other, better known, small flowering plants would find hard to match. Diascias are half-hardy annuals or semi-evergreens, usually of a spreading type, that bear oodles of tiny highly distinctive flowers. Each flower has two prominent spurs sticking out from the rear and as gentle little charmers, diascias are suitable for numerous garden purposes. This small plant is of the no-care, sow-and-grow type. It needs no special soil or maintenance and is remarkably pest-resistant and disease-free. Almost all its varieties form a neat, even mat, but are not invasive, and can be used for many different garden purposes. It is for such convincing reasons that diascia’s popularity is on a sharp rise in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Diascia spp. Common Name(s) Twinspur Plant Type Perennial / Annual Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H3/H4 Foliage Semi-Evergreen Flowers Small cup or bell-shaped flowers that ranges in colour from peachy tones to orange, white and pink When To Plant March – June When To Prune March – April Diascia is a member of the family Scrophulariaceae.1 This botanical family includes genera whose flowers are bilaterally symmetrical, like pansies, rather than radially symmetrical or asymmetrical. These plants are of three kinds of habit: mat-forming, bushy, and upright. The trailing, mat-forming types are the most common and these are the types that generally come to mind when one talks about diascia. These grow to only 15-25cm in height, but with twice the spread. In contrast, the bushy and upright forms reach heights of 0.5-1m. Diascias are herbaceous plants that are annuals or semi-evergreen perennials depending on your location in the United Kingdom. Whatever the habit or the size, the bilaterally-symmetrical flowers are typically only about 2cm wide and they are cup-shaped or bell-shaped. The leaves are small and ovate, though the shade of green varies somewhat between the varieties, ranging from a bright mid-green to a rich dark green. The flowers are white, and in various tones of pink and orange, particularly coral and apricot shades, through to near red. Planting The mat-forming types of diascias will make very attractive groundcover or edging plants, whilst the upright and bushy types will make pleasing and gentle companion plants for taller plants, and their flowers’ typically soft and pastel shades will set off plants with brightly coloured blooms. All types of diascias will make great choices for borders because of their soothingly colourful floriferousness. Any of the varieties that are on the small side are very well suited for rock gardens because of their diminutiveness and colourations, and also because of their spreading habit. Finally, it is as container plants that diascias are experiencing a sharp rise in popularity. With a cascade or cloud of a profusion of tiny blooms in soft shades look delightful streaming off a hanging basket or patio pot, it’s easy to see why. Ongoing Care Soil Requirements The best type of soil for diascia is moderately fertile, light soil amended with organic material. A free-draining loam amended with organic compost is ideal. The soil should retain moisture but not stay waterlogged – it must drain well. The best to accomplish this would be to incorporate plenty of organic matter such as compost in the planting hole and to mulch with more compost. Sunlight In most areas of the United Kingdom, diascias will do best in full sun, but if you’re in a milder region and you run into a sweltering summer, twinspur will be in a bit of a bother and will certainly stop flowering. Container Growing All varieties can be grown from seed and propagated from softwood cuttings while upright varieties can also be propagated by division. However, the easiest and most common route for growing diascias is to obtain them as potted plants, which are widely available in numerous varieties. If your preferred variety is not hardy enough to survive winter outdoors, the advantage to growing it in a container is that you can simply overwinter this small plant indoors in a sunny and warm spot, provided it is a perennial variety and not annual. Propagating To propagate from cuttings, take a softwood stem cutting of about 8cm. Keep a pair of young leaves and remove the rest. Trim the stem to just below a node. Dampen the bottom of the cutting and dip in rooting hormone, or in honey followed by cinnamon. Insert the cutting 2.5cm into potting compost and then water sufficiently to keep the compost damp. Seeds may be started indoors before spring and this is the choice alternative if you intend to grow potted plants. They may also be sown directly outdoors after there is no threat of frost and temperatures stay above 10°C. Seeds should be sown onto seed-sowing compost, very lightly covered with vermiculite or compost and kept in a light place between 15-20°C out of direct sunlight. Sow seeds for mat-forming varieties 20-30cm apart, otherwise thin seedlings after they emerge. Soil should be kept consistently moist and the seeds should sprout in about a fortnight. Watering & Feeding Diascias should be watered regularly but in moderation. Keep the soil consistently moist but allow the top few centimetres to dry out every few days before watering again. Diascias perform better when they are fed. Either a regular balanced fertiliser applied once a month throughout the season or a slow-release balanced fertiliser applied in spring will suit these plants very well. Be wary of applying fertiliser at the recommended strength for diascias; it will not hurt if the dilution is about 20% greater than what is recommended. Pruning No matter which kinds of diascias you grow, pinching the leaders of growing plants will result in bushier growth. Doing so may especially benefit some of the newer upright varieties. When plants are beginning to look leggy or otherwise when blooming tapers off in the dog days of summer, cut back the plants by about a 30-50% of their current growth. Doing so will trigger fresh growth and renewed blooming, particularly when you move into the end of summer and the weather starts to cool down. If you are lucky enough to live in a region where you can grow diascias as outdoor perennials, you may divide the plants when they look hemmed-in or congested 2-3 years after they were planted. Such division is best done in early spring. Common Problems One of the major plusses of these plants is that they are not susceptible to any worrying pests or diseases. All you need to watch out for are snails and slugs which love to chew up diascia foliage. “If this is an issue, organic solutions such as a mat of sheep wool on the soil surface or copper tape around the lips of containers can help to keep troublesome molluscs at bay,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. References 1. Diascia fetcaniensis. (2019, August 9). Cambridge Botanic Garden. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.botanic.cam.ac.uk/the-garden/plant-list/diascia-fetcaniensis/
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10 Favourite Diascia Varieties With Mat-Forming, Bushy And Upright Habits
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. personata 2) D. rigescens 3) D. ‘Diamond White Blush’ 4) D. ‘Rupert Lambert’ 5) D. barberae ‘Blackthorn Apricot’ 6) D. ‘Twinkle’ 7) D. ‘Hopleys’ 8) D. ‘Lilac Belle’ 9) D. ‘Pink Bicolour’ 10) D. ‘Sundiascia Eternal Flames’ References Diascia is a genus of approximately 63 species which originate in South Africa.1 They are of mat-forming, bushy and upright habit – depending on the type and variety – and often grown as container plants here in the UK. All the species plants and varieties I’ve featured below have a hardiness rating of H3 except where noted, meaning they’ll likely need some form of protection heading into Winter (depending on how far north you live). 1) D. personata A H4 hardy perennial variety with candy pink flowers. This variety is of a bushy habit and can grow up to 1m in height. This is one of the few diascias that will do well if sited in partial shade in the United Kingdom. 2) D. rigescens This variety is classified as a mat-forming perennial type but it may be more apt to view this species as a bushy type or even an upright type. It reaches over 40cm and bears coral-pink flowers on erect stalks. It has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 3) D. ‘Diamond White Blush’ ‘Diamond White Bush’ is of a mat-forming habit, rising only to about 20cm but with a spread of about 30cm. This long-blooming perennial produces a profusion of flowers from end-spring to early autumn. These flowers are white with a delicate apricot ‘blush’ in the throat. 4) D. ‘Rupert Lambert’ ‘Rupert Lamber’ is a perennial with a mat-forming habit that produces rich shades of pink flowers throughout summer and autumn. It has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 5) D. barberae ‘Blackthorn Apricot’ This variety is a mat-forming perennial type yet bears flowers on upright stalks that rises to only 25cm but has a much greater spread. Blooming during summer and for a good portion of autumn, different plants produce flowers of varying shades ranging from pale to warm hues of pink and apricot. It is one of the hardy varieties, rated as H4 and it has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 6) D. ‘Twinkle’ ‘Twinkle’ is a proper mat-forming, trailing perennial type that rises to only 20cm but has a spread of twice as much. It blooms from the beginning of summer into autumn with magenta-pink flowers. It has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 7) D. ‘Hopleys’ This variety is an upright perennial type and has an especially long flowering season that starts in spring and continues into autumn. Attaining heights of up to 1m with dusky pink flowers that have darker pink centres, these are proper bedding plants in their own right and are ideal for borders. Another attractive characteristic is that this variety is hardy to H4. 8) D. ‘Lilac Belle’ Among the lowest, ground-hugging perennial type that rises to only 15cm and is perfect to deploy as groundcover, ‘Lilac Belle’ boasts a relatively unusual floral colour varying from lilac to light purple. It is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 9) D. ‘Pink Bicolour’ This is one of the newer annual varieties, with an upright habit, growing to about 30cm high. It flowers all through summer and produces a profusion of blooms that are various shades of pink. 10) D. ‘Sundiascia Eternal Flames’ ‘Sundiascia Eternal Flames’ is another one of the newer perennial varieties. It has a long flowering season lasting from the beginning of summer deep into autumn – where it bears a profusion of blooms on erect stalks, in shades of candy pink through coral and bright orange. It is H4 hardy. References 1. Diascia. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online | Kew Science. Retrieved June 5, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:37587-1
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Bromeliad Houseplant Growing Tips: How To Make Yours Bloom
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Bromeliad Care How To Make A Bromeliad Bloom References There are many plants that call the family Bromeliaceae their home – including the pineapple! Many of the plants in this family are also epiphytic, meaning they absorb water and nutrients from the air rather than the soil. This is a really interesting trait, as it means bromeliads can grow on other plants without causing any harm or absorbing any of their nutrients as a parasitic plant would.1 They can even grow on inanimate objects like rocks. Overview Botanical Name Bromeliaceae Common Name(s) Bromeliad / Air plant Plant Type Perennial Houseplant Native Area Central & South America, The Caribbean and West Africa Hardiness Rating Varies depending on cultivar Foliage Evergreen Flowers Varies When To Plant Any time (when sowing indoors) When To Prune Any time (varies with cultivar) While not all bromeliad cultivars lend themselves well to being houseplants, there are a few that will fit the bill. Just bear in mind that these plants only have a single reproductive cycle which means they’ll flower once and then die away. The plus side is it’s a relatively long lifecycle, and they’ll produce ‘pups’ which you can replant for another go. Bromeliad Care Because we’ve recommended various types of bromeliad houseplants, the next section will be quite surface-level. Obviously, each type of plant will have its own requirements, so check the specific cultivar(s) you’re working with to make sure it gets what it needs. Light & Temperature Bromeliads like a lot of light, but make sure it’s not direct as they can suffer scorching. Aim for at least five hours of indirect sunlight each day. A south or west-facing windowsill is preferred. While bromeliads can bloom at any time, balmy indoor temperatures around 21°C will do more to encourage it. Once bloomed, lower temperatures can encourage a longer bloom. A rule of thumb for comfortable bromeliad temperature is 12-21°C. Watering These plants generally like to be watered about once a week, although again this will vary between varieties. Check for soil dryness an inch or so below the surface – this is usually a good indicator that they’re thirsty. Some varieties have a central reservoir that you can water. Soil Requirements Obviously, some bromeliads can grow as air plants, meaning they don’t need soil at all. If your bromeliad isn’t an air plant, look for fast-draining potting soil. Orchid mix is a good place to start, but make sure to check the specific needs of your variety. Fertilising Many bromeliads do just fine without fertiliser. If you’re unsure, check the requirements for your variety. Those varieties that do like a bit of extra food often do well with light, infrequent feedings. Winter Care These plants tend to go dormant in the winter, meaning they’ll grow slower and require less water. It can be a good idea to mist their leaves or put a humidifier nearby to ensure they stay moist. Try to ensure they’re still getting 5 hours of daylight per day if possible. Common Pests & Diseases Like pretty much every plant, certain pests find bromeliads difficult to resist. You’ll need to keep your eyes peeled for mealybugs and aphids, both of which like to suck sap from plant tissue. Uninterrupted feeding can cause make plants look pallid and weak, which can lead to lasting damage. To remove mealybugs and aphids your best first step is vigilance. Check your plants regularly and remove early visitors by hand. If you notice repeat visits and you’re finding it difficult to keep them in check, you have a few options: Predators like ladybirds which will keep pest populations at bay. Sticky traps which will lure the visitors away and kill them. Pesticides which are a little more extreme, but are usually quite effective. Propagation One of the great things about bromeliads is that they put out pups after they’ve bloomed. These pups are new plants, ready to be potted and to start their own journey. Once you see pups growing from your mother plant, you can remove it with a pruning tool or, if you’re careful, by hand. Then it’s just a case of potting up the pup in the same conditions as the mother-plant and watching the cycle repeat. Or, if you like to spread the houseplant love, you can give a pup to a friend! Potting & Re-Potting Because bromeliads have a one-bloom lifecycle, there’s not often a need to repot them. If you do find your plant struggling for space in its pot, repotting is simple. Gently remove the bromeliad from its existing soil and transplant it to soil in a new, bigger pot. Ensure the top of the soil is level with the top of the new plant, and water right away. How To Make A Bromeliad Bloom Keeping your plant in its ideal conditions is the best way to make it bloom. This means well-drained compost, plenty of water when it’s thirsty and, if the variety requires it, the right amount of fertiliser at the right intervals. The above is a general guide, and we recommend looking at specific advice for the variety you are growing to ensure the best results. What Happens When A Bromeliad Bloom Dies? After the bloom, your bromeliad will begin to produce pups. You can either leave the floral bloom to die on the plant or remove it carefully. Do Bromeliads Only Flower Once? For most varieties, the answer is yes, although bear in mind bromeliads can stay in bloom for a long time, sometimes up to a year. Also remember that you can replant the pups that a mother plant puts out, letting you enjoy an endless series of individual blooms. References 1. Bromeliads. (n.d.). Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/bromeliads/
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12 Interesting Bromeliad Varieties That Are Award Of Garden Merit (AGM) Recipients
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Aechmea ‘Del Mar’ 2) A. fasciata ‘Primera’ 3) Guzmania ‘Mirador’ 4) G. lingulata var. minor 5) G. ‘Theresa’ 6) Neoregelia carolinae 7) Vriesea splendens 8) V. ‘Astrid’ 9) Tillandsia cyanea ‘Anita’ 10) T. argentea 11) Billbergia × windii ‘angel’s tears’ 12) Cryptanthus bivittatus ‘Pink Starlite’ There are many types of bromeliad, giving us a range of choices when considering which ones to add to our houseplant collections. Rather than showcase all bromeliad varieties, we’re going to spotlight a few common varieties that lend themselves particularly well to growing indoors. We’ve selected varieties in receipt of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit (AGM) as a way to ensure their quality and suitability to UK growing conditions. Here’s our list, but keep in mind it is far from exhaustive: 1) Aechmea ‘Del Mar’ An evergreen, perennial bromeliad with pink-red stems that sport attractive flowers in blue, purple, green and white. A truly exotic colour combination that’s sure to draw the eye! 2) A. fasciata ‘Primera’ Another evergreen perennial with a colourful floret of spiky flowers in an attractive pink hue. 3) Guzmania ‘Mirador’ The point of interest of this stunning cultivar is the spiky tower of colour that grows up from the central arrangement of leaves. 4) G. lingulata var. minor This really is a remarkable plant, as you can see in the image at the bottom of this section. Where else can you find such a bold, bright display of purples, oranges and yellows? 5) G. ‘Theresa’ If you’re looking for an entry-level bromeliad, this dwarf variety may be a good fit. A fiery red core sits in a spiky circle of green. 6) Neoregelia carolinae This bromeliad has quite a different aesthetic: long green blade-shaped leaves with white cores surround almost flesh-coloured foliage. 7) Vriesea splendens Green leaves interspersed with bands of grey-green grow to an impressive length of up to 60cm. 8) V. ‘Astrid’ Bright red flowers with sharp tips shoot out from the green beneath, giving this cultivar its well-earned nickname: flaming sword. 9) Tillandsia cyanea ‘Anita’ This bromeliad, with its stunning pink blooms, can be grown in a pot or as an air plant: very on-trend. 10) T. argentea Here’s another which can be grown well as an air plant, this time sporting silvery green spindles of leaves. 11) Billbergia × windii ‘angel’s tears’ This hybrid cultivar has exotic pink flowers that droop from dark green foliage. 12) Cryptanthus bivittatus ‘Pink Starlite’ This bromeliad is white on the outside and green in the centre, with a captivating pink hue infused. There are plenty of other types of bromeliad to look at that haven’t received the RHS AGM. Check for varieties in the families mentioned above, as well as Dyckia and Hechtia varieties.
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Is Arborvitae Right For Your Garden? Here's How To Grow Thuja Hedging
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Is Arborvitae Right For Your Garden? Common Varieties Where To Grow Thuja How To Grow Thuja Ongoing Care References Arborvitaes are well-known conifers and hedging plants which are used in many UK gardens – but are these the right option for you? Overview Botanical Name Thuja Common Name(s) Arborvitae / Tree of Life Plant Type Coniferous Tree Native Area North America and Eastern Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Evergreen When To Plant Spring or Autumn When To Prune Spring There are five species within the Thuja genus, all of which are widely grown as ornamental trees in many gardens around the world, and are commonly used as hedging plants. Sometimes, other plants are also referred to as arborvitae, including a number of species which were formerly included in the Thuja genus.1 These include, for example, Platycladus orientalis, formerly known as Thuja orientalis. This is a varied genus which can include a range of cultivars of different sizes and different appearances. Some arborvitae can be towering trees that reach metres high, while others can be smallish shrubs suitable for container growing. Is Arborvitae Right For Your Garden? Arborvitae are varied plants which can work well in many gardens. However, it is important to understand that some can grow extremely vigorously and plants that were not chosen with care may quickly outgrow their location. As well as thinking about the needs of the plants themselves when choosing where to place them, you also need to make sure that you think about how large they will eventually grow and their habit and form. Arborvitae can be useful for making privacy screens and hedgerows to shield unsightly views or provide a buffer against traffic noise or pollution. They can provide year-round evergreen interest, and there are a number of interesting ornamental varieties to choose from. These can ensure that a bed or border in your garden looks lush and attractive throughout the winter months. Arborvitaes are all coniferous evergreens which are perfect for a low-maintenance scheme. They are easy to cultivate and do not require a lot of care. However, if growing arborvitae as hedging, the extra work involved in pruning and maintaining a neat hedge should be considered. Common Varieties Thujas which are grown in gardens in the UK are native to North America and Asia. The two North American species are: T. occidentalis T. plicata And two of the three Asian species are: T. koraiensis T. standishii There’s also a hybrid between Thuja plicata and Thuja shandishii known as ‘Green Giant’. T. occidentalis T. occidentalis cultivars commonly grown in the UK include: ‘Amber Glow’ ‘Danica’ ‘Degroot’s Spire’ ‘Emeraude’ ‘Golden Tuffet’ ‘Holmstrup’ ‘Rheingold’ T. plicata T. plicata cultivars include: ‘Atrovirens’ ‘Aurea’ ‘Goldy ‘4ever” ‘Irish Gold’ ‘Stoneham Gold’ ‘Whipcord’ ‘Zebrina’ Where To Grow Thuja Arborvitae can be grown as stand-alone specimen trees, in mixed borders, whilst a number of varieties are also commonly used to create hedgerows. Wherever they are used within a garden design, they will thrive in full sun or in partial shade. They can cope with most soil types but will do best in soil which is moist yet free-draining, and they are unfussy when it comes to soil pH. Thujas are mostly H6 or H7 hardy, fully hardy in even the coldest and most northerly locations in the British Isles. These trees and shrubs can vary broadly in their growth habit, size, form and appearance. Larger options should be used only with caution and may not be suitable for smaller gardens, whilst many smaller arborvitae cultivars may even be grown in containers. Where exactly arborvitaes are best planted will depend on which varieties you have chosen to grow. How To Grow Thuja Arborvitaes are best planted in spring, between March and May, or in the autumn between September and November. While you can also plant out arborvitae through the summer months, it may be more difficult to get the plants to establish properly when the weather is warm and more dry. Watering well during establishment is especially important if planting in summer. Planting holes for arborvitae planted in the ground should be twice as wide and deep as the root ball to allow the roots to spread out easily as the plants become established. Water in well and firm back the soil gently around the base of your new additions. Upon planting in the ground, be sure to mulch well with plenty of organic matter, to retain moisture and to provide slow-release fertility for the plants. Spacing, particularly for hedging, will very much depend on the variety or varieties of arborvitae that you have chosen. Make sure that you understand the expected height and width of the options you have chosen in order to create a hedge without breaks which will not be too overcrowded. Ongoing Care As mentioned above, arborvitaes are low-maintenance plants which won’t require a lot of time and care, especially once established. Watering Arborvitae will usually need to be watered regularly over the summer as they become established. However, when grown in the ground in the UK after this initial period, they should be happy with natural rainfall and you will likely only need to provide water during periods of drought. If growing smaller cultivars in containers, you will need to water more frequently as containers are more liable to drying out. Make sure you water well but ensure that the water can drain away relatively freely so that the conditions do not become waterlogged. Feeding Arborvitaes which are planted in relatively fertile soil and mulched with organic matter should not require additional feeding. However, trees grown in containers may benefit from the occasional watering with a balanced, organic liquid feed over the period of active growth. Pruning Arborvitae grown as stand-alone specimens and in beds and borders will not usually require any pruning at all. Many of them have well-formed slender pyramid shapes and should not be pruned, but if you are growing as a hedge, you will need to prune your arborvitae. There are several different schools of thought about when to prune arborvitae hedges. The first says that it is best to prune in late spring or early summer, usually in May or June, to remove any winter damage and prune for shape as new growth starts to appear. The problem with this is that you may disturb nesting birds. The second school of thought says that it is best to prune in late summer or early autumn, at the tail end of the hedge’s growing season, which helps retain a shape which can shed snowfall easily and is less likely to disturb native birds. Some gardeners combine both ideas and prune twice yearly, once early in the summer and then again in late summer or early autumn to tidy things up after summer growth. As long as nesting birds are not disturbed and you have the time, then I’d suggest that this gives the best overall effect. Whenever you decide to prune, arborvitae hedges will need pruning to keep them in check. “Make sure you have sufficient space when using Thuja for hedging,” shares Colin Skelly, a recipient of the Master of Horticulture title from the RHS. “Unless the plant is regularly cut back (which diminishes its status as a low maintenance option), it will have a tendency to put on more growth. “Eventually, this will lead to needing to cut back into brown woody areas, which won’t grow back.” Just remember that you should only ever cut green growth and not cut into the brown woody part, as this will not grow back. Propagation If you wish to propagate new arborvitae to extend a hedge, perhaps, or create specimens to plant elsewhere in your garden, you can do so by taking semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer or early autumn. Introducing arborvitae into your garden does involve careful thought and it is very important to choose a variety that is suited to its growing location and your needs. But, if you do decide to introduce this type of coniferous tree to your garden, then it can be a useful and low-maintenance addition. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998b, July 20). Arborvitae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/arborvitae
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Cut Back Rudbeckia In Early Spring And Deadhead Throughout Summer Say Experts
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune 1) Clean Your Tools 2) Cut Back During Early Spring 3) Deadhead Throughout The Blooming Season Also known as black-eyed or brown-eyed Susans, Rudbeckias are cheerful plants with a lengthy blooming season and decent resilience to the British climate. Having said that, they will benefit from regular pruning in order to extend their blossoms for as long as possible – as well as to keep them from propagating all over the place. Although not strictly necessary, pruning will certainly enhance the aesthetic appeal and practical qualities of your plant, while cutting it back will promote new growth the next year. To do so, follow these steps: Clean and/or sharpen your cutting tools Cut back well during early spring Deadhead finished flowers throughout the blooming season If you’d like more of a detailed guide on any of those specific steps, just keep reading! Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, pruning shears, cloth, isopropyl alcohol, mulch When To Prune Spring and summer When To Prune You can cut back your rudbeckia plants any time after they have finished blooming, though waiting until springtime is preferable. That’s because the spent flowers will provide vital nutrition in the shape of seeds for birds throughout autumn and winter, while fallen growth will insulate their roots over the colder months. In June, July and August, it is advisable to keep your pruning shears at the ready and deadhead any spent blossoms as soon as they appear. This will prevent seed production, which propagates the plant and diverts energy away from blossoming. “Rudbeckias are popular in naturalistic plantings because of their associability with grasses and other perennials,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “This style of planting doesn’t require deadheading, as the spent blooms are part of the aesthetic and allow self-sowing. “If you are deadheading, remember that the more you remove, the less seed there will be for the birds.” 1) Clean Your Tools One step that is often overlooked in plant care of all types is maintaining your tools. Blunt shears can damage a plant’s stems and stunt its growth, while dirty blades can spread diseases. As such, be sure to keep the blades of your pruning shears as sharp as possible, replacing them every few years if necessary. Clean them before use and also afterwards, by soaking a clean rag in isopropyl alcohol, making sure to wipe the blades firmly to remove all impurities. Wear gardening gloves throughout this process. 2) Cut Back During Early Spring As mentioned above, you can cut back your rudbeckia plant earlier than spring, though if you do remove fallen growth, be sure to replace it with 2-3 inches of mulch to insulate the roots. Leaving the spent blooms in place is a good idea to feed your local bird population. When the time comes, cut the entire plant back to just above the soil level, making sure to cut at a 45° angle to prevent moisture build-up from rainwater. Rake away any fallen growth and replace it with a fresh layer of mulch. 3) Deadhead Throughout The Blooming Season If you want to maintain beautiful blooms for as long as possible, you need to make sure that your rudbeckia does not become distracted by seed production during the summer months. That means keeping an eye out for spent blossoms and tackling them as soon as they appear. When deadheading, you can prune stems with just a single spent blossom all the way back to where they join the main stem. For those with multiple blossoms (not all of which are spent), simply remove the offending flowerhead. Repeat as necessary.
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Collect Seeds From Spent Rudbeckia Flowerheads And Sow Indoors For Next Season
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Rudbeckia 1) Sow The Seeds 2) Separate Out Into Pots 3) Harden Off 4) Transplant Outdoors 5) Rudbeckia Aftercare With their large, daisy-like flowerheads, bright colours and extended flowering season, it’s no surprise that rudbeckias are popular across the UK. The fact that they’re fairly hardy, depending on the exact species, is another bonus in a country where the climate doesn’t always play nice. You might wish to create some insurance, however, by collecting seeds from spent flowerheads and sowing them indoors for the following season – or simply start a new collection by buying store seeds. Either way, you should follow the same process, outlined below: Sow the seeds in a seed tray with a suitable growing medium. Separate your seedlings out into individual pots. Harden off your rudbeckia in a colder environment. Transplant outdoors from May onwards. Care for your plants well to encourage autumn flowering. We understand that those steps might seem a little daunting to those with little experience in the horticultural world, which is why we’ve covered them in greater detail below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seed tray, individual pots, potting soil, trowel When To Sow February-April When To Plant Out May-September When To Sow Rudbeckia While it is theoretically possible to directly sow rudbeckia seeds into your garden, the inclemency of the British climate makes it inadvisable. Instead, sow them in a seed tray inside your greenhouse or home to allow for easy germination, before separating them into individual pots and finally transplanting them outside. Sow the seeds initially in springtime, separating them out after 2-3 weeks. Do not transplant outdoors until all danger of frost has passed. 1) Sow The Seeds Prepare the seeds by placing them inside a damp cloth or paper towel for a few hours to fully hydrate them prior to sowing. You can also submerge them in a glass of water, but take care to ensure they do not drown. “Seeds might not look alive, but they are slowly respiring,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Whilst submerging them in water might allow them to imbibe water to start the germination process, this should only be brief so that they can continue to breathe.” Then, using a good quality compost or potting soil that’s free from peat, sow your seeds in a seed tray at a minimal depth, since light is necessary for the germination process. Keep them moist and warm. 2) Separate Out Into Pots Once the seedlings have produced growth and are large enough to handle, it’s time to separate them into individual pots so that they can fully establish themselves. Take care when separating them to ensure their roots do not become damaged. Use pots with a diameter of between 7.5-10cm and plant the seedlings so that their shoots are level with the top of the pot. Water thoroughly and keep in a warm, dry place initially. 3) Harden Off After a couple of days of getting used to their new environment, it’s time to begin preparing your rudbeckia for the colder temperatures they will experience outdoors. You can do this by removing them to a colder room or opening the window for several hours a day. The process should be a gradual one to avoid giving the rudbeckia too great a shock to the system, which could result in early death. Overall, expect the hardening process to take around 2 weeks, though longer is fine if need be. 4) Transplant Outdoors Once the final frost of the year has passed and your seedling has begun to produce healthy foliage, it’s time to move them to their final position outdoors. Choose a fertile, well-draining spot which enjoys lots of organic matter and good sunshine. Plant your rudbeckias at least 30cm apart, but arrange them in drifts or alongside complementary flowers such as asters, echinacea or a variety of grasses for an aesthetically pleasing effect. 5) Rudbeckia Aftercare Once your rudbeckia plant has become fully established outdoors, it doesn’t require pinching and can fend for itself for the most part. However, you should take care to keep it hydrated during particularly dry spells, always watering the soil rather than the foliage and flowers. Apply liquid plant food every 2 weeks. Deadhead throughout the blooming season to prolong it and prevent unwanted propagation. Leave the final round of spent flowers on the plant in autumn to provide food for birds throughout the winter, then cut back in spring. Remove all fallen foliage and replace it with 2-3 inches of fresh mulch.
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