Growing
Tree Peonies Look Phenomenal At The Rear Of A Border: This Is How You Can Grow Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Tree Peony Vs Peony – What’s The Difference? Common Varieties How To Grow Tree Peonies Tree Peony Care References Tree peonies are not actually trees at all; they are shrubs, with pleasing foliage and dramatic blooms. These plants look lovely at the back of a border, but is this plant the right choice for you? And if so, how can it be grown successfully? Overview Botanical Name Paeonia ssp. Common Name(s) Tree peonies Plant Type Perennial Shrub Native Area China Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White, pink, red, peach, yellow blooms When To Plant September-October When To Prune February Tree peonies are members of the Paeonia genus which have woody stems and a shrubby form. The tree peonies grown in gardens are often hybrids, derived after long cultivation and through cross-breeding from wild Chinese species in the Moutan group of Paeonia.1 Tree peonies are prized for their attractive leaves and especially for their large, bowl-shaped blooms. Tree Peony Vs Peony – What’s The Difference? The difference between tree peonies and other peonies is that these are shrubs, with woody stems, rather than herbaceous perennials. They will lose their leaves in winter, but unlike other peonies, will not die back to the ground. Common Varieties When choosing a tree peony, one of the most important considerations for most gardeners will be the colour and form of the flowers. There are single, semi-double and double-blooming cultivars available which come in a huge range of different colours and shades. Some great varieties to consider include: P. delayavi var. ludlowii P. ‘Duchess of Kent’ P. ‘Duchess of Marlborough’ P. x lemoinei ‘High Noon’ P. x lemoinei ‘Souvenir de Maxime Cornu’ P. ‘Reine Elizabeth’ P. ‘Rockii’ P. ‘Shimane Sedai’ P. ‘Shimanishiki’ P. ‘Showanohokori’ P. x suffruticosa ‘Renkaku’ P. rockii How To Grow Tree Peonies Gardeners will not typically grow tree peonies from seed. Most of the tree peonies offered for sale are grafted onto herbaceous peony rootstock. You should be able to see the raised graft scar when you purchase your plant. However, should you wish to grow these plants from seed, you can do so both with species like Paeonia delavayi and with hybrids. Note, however, that hybrids grown from seed will not breed true, so may not grow up to resemble the parent plant, and they are often inferior. However, you might still see some interesting results. Growing From Seed To grow from seed: Collect seed when pods split open in late summer or autumn. Collect the black seed, which is viable. Soon after collecting the seeds, sow them 2.5cm deep in containers of seed compost. Cover the compost with a layer of grit and place them in a cold frame, or sheltered spot outside (at the base of a wall, for example). Make sure the medium does not dry out in summer and rodents cannot eat the seeds. Peony seeds are doubly dormant – roots emerge after the first winter, but stems and leaves only after the second winter. You will have to be patient as seedlings will take up to 5 years to reach flowering size. When To Plant Tree peonies should be planted in the autumn months, however, you can also plant them in winter or the early spring. Just make sure to avoid planting any later than early spring as the plants may fail to establish when the weather is too warm and dry. Where To Plant Tree peonies require a sunny position or one with light shade. It is important to avoid frost pockets since, though hardy, their developing buds can be damaged by late frosts. You should also site a tree peony in a sheltered spot where it will not be damaged by strong winds. “Walled gardens are ideal for tree peonies but any area of a garden that is protected by structures or trees and shrubs and are south-facing should work well,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Work in plenty of organic matter to heavy clays or sandy soils to improve drainage and moisture holding respectively.” Choose a position where there is neutral, free-draining yet humus-rich soil for best results. Avoid planting in soil with heavy clay that becomes waterlogged unless and until it has been amended with plenty of organic matter like homemade compost or well-rotted manure. Graft Union It is important when planting a tree peony that you have purchased to look for the graft union. You should see this as a slight bulge close to the base of the stem. In this case, the graft union should be below the soil surface. Ideally, aim to make sure that the graft union is around 15cm below ground level. This helps the grafted plant to develop roots of its own. Water the tree peony in well, then mulch around your new shrub with some organic material to conserve moisture and provide slow-release fertility. Just make sure that the mulch is not piled up around the stem as this can cause it to rot. Tree Peony Care Light Tree peonies are happy in a sunny spot as long as the soil conditions are right, and can also thrive in light shade. Temperature & Humidity These plants are H6 hardy in the UK and are able to withstand even harsh winter conditions. However, as mentioned above, they may be damaged by strong winds or late frosts. Watering Tree peonies should be watered regularly during dry spells during their first summer, but once established, their deep roots mean that they will not have high watering needs and routine watering will not be required. Deadheading Dead flowers can be removed after flowering if you do not wish to collect seed. Feeding In reasonably nutrient-rich soils, applying a good quality organic mulch and replenishing this each year in spring should be sufficient enough to meet this plant’s nutrient needs. If growth seems poor, you can also add a balanced organic fertiliser in spring. Overwintering These plants are fully hardy and will not need winter protection. They will lose their foliage, but their woody structure of branches will remain in place until the following year. Container Growing Tree peonies are relatively large and deep-rooted plants once mature, and so are not necessarily the best choice for long-term container cultivation. If you are looking for peonies to grow in pots then herbaceous types are likely to be better options. Pruning Very light maintenance pruning only is required. Remove any dead shoots in winter, cutting back to a healthy bud. Occasionally, you may wish to prune to remove flowering shoots in summer, or in the autumn after seeds (if you wish to collect them) have matured, but this is not usually required. References 1. Zhou, S., Zou, X., Zhou, Z., Liu, J., Xu, C., Yu, J., Wang, Q., Zhang, D., Wang, X., Ge, S., Sang, T., Pan, K., & Hong, D. (2014). Multiple species of wild tree peonies gave rise to the ‘king of flowers’, Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews. The Royal Society Proceeding B: Biological Sciences, 281(1797), 20141687. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2014.1687
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You Should Plant Bare Root Peonies In Late Autumn Say Experts - Here Are 5 Simple Steps
IN THIS GUIDE When To Plant Peonies 1) Choose Where To Plant 2) Make Your Planting Hole 3) Plant The Peony 4) Water In Well 5) Mulch Around Your Peony Peonies are popular cottage garden perennials which can make a strong and long-lasting impact in your garden. Herbaceous and intersectional peonies are usually purchased as bare-root divisions or as potted plants. Bare root peonies are best planted in the late autumn, while those which come in pots are typically planted out in late spring. To plant peonies: Choose a suitable location for the peony you have chosen. Make your planting hole – aiming for the same depth as the root ball but twice the width. Place the plant in the hole and firm the soil around the new plant. Don’t plant too deep as this can result in poor flowering. Water in well and repeat this until the plant is firmly established. Mulch around the peony you have planted with organic matter. Read on for a more detailed description of this process, and for expert tips to help ensure your peony gets off to the best possible start. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Spade When To Plant Out Late autumn or late spring When To Plant Peonies When you plant a new peony will depend on whether you have purchased bare root divisions or divided one of your own existing plants, or purchased a peony in a pot. Carol Adelman, President of the Pacific Northwest Peony Society, suggests that you should usually plant bare-root peonies in late autumn, between October-November and plants sold in pots in late spring sometime in March-May. 1) Choose Where To Plant Peonies should ideally be planted in a location with full sun and fertile soil which has been amended with plenty of organic matter. They are unfussy about soil type, but will do best in locations which do not become waterlogged in winter or dry out excessively in summer, says Kate Blacker, owner of Little Budds Peony Farm. “They prefer clay soil and don’t grow well on chalk or thin soils,” she says. When choosing a suitable spot, it is important to remember that peonies can be large plants. “The planting spot should have sunshine and good drainage,” says Carol. “Allow 36 inches (91cm) spacing between each plant. This will look bare for the first year, but after three years, the space will probably be filled.” However, space needs will obviously vary depending on the specific cultivar that you have chosen. “Peonies prefer full sun and plenty of space,” says Kate, “we allow them 1mx1m.” “Ours grow in an open field without support”. That being said, some may find that larger peonies may benefit from staking. You should consider adding support before planting to avoid potential disruption to the root system so that the stems can be tied to the support as the peony grows. 2) Make Your Planting Hole When digging a planting hole, it is a good idea to make this hole much larger than the existing root system of the plant. It should be the same depth as the root ball but should be around twice as wide. “Mix tulip or daffodil bulb fertiliser into the bottom of the planting hole and cover it with a little soil,” says Carol. “Lay the root flat on the ground with the eyes looking up at the sky.” 3) Plant The Peony Place the peony into the planting hole. Gently draw the soil back around the roots, firming it into place so that there are no air pockets. “Herbaceous peony plants should be planted at a shallow depth, with only 1-2 inches of soil above the eyes,” advises Koen Hurtekant, the founder of The Peony Society. “Shrubby peonies, on the other hand, should be planted deeper, 3-4 inches below the ground.” If peonies are planted too deep, this can lead to poor flowering. “Place them around 2-3 feet away from one another so that they have enough place to grow to maturity over the course of 4-5 years,” says Koen. When planting bare-root peonies, Carol recommends you should cover the ‘eyes’ (which are the buds that will make the stems, leaves and flowers) with 2 inches of soil (5cm). “Water it in. If you are in a very wet climate, level the soil after adding fertiliser, place the root there (on top of the soil) and pull dirt up from all sides to cover it, making a moat for the excess water to drain into. “This will keep the root from rotting from standing water.” 4) Water In Well Once you have firmed the soil back around the plant, make sure that you water it well, to settle the soil back around the roots. Then remember that you should continue to water the plant well until it becomes established, especially during dry periods during its first summer. “Make sure you mark where your peony is as it will die back in the winter and won’t appear until the spring,” Kate recommends. “Marking your perennials when they’ve died back is essential when you are planting or re-planting,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Without this, you may well walk on and damage plants where there is no visible sign at the surface that they are there. There are times when I have planted too close because I have forgotten where I planted.” 5) Mulch Around Your Peony Finally, you should mulch around the base of the newly planted peony with well-rotted organic matter such as garden compost, well-rotted manure or leaf mould. This mulch will be important in adding fertility, improving the soil, conserving moisture and suppressing weeds. The mulch should be refreshed in spring each year. “The first three years are the most important,” says Kate. “We don’t allow any plants to flower during those early years which means that the crown will increase in size and be able to support flowering for the next 100 years!”
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Yarrow Is Very Easy To Propagate Says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Growing From Seed 2) Taking Cuttings 3) Dividing Achilleas, commonly known as yarrows, are incredibly easy to grow and are pretty easy to propagate too. Depending on which type of yarrow you decide to grow, you may even find that the plants spread on their own through self-seeding. However, taking matters into your own hands will usually yield positive results and is something even novice gardeners should be able to do. There are three main ways to propagate yarrows: Growing from seed. Taking cuttings. Dividing mature plants. We’ll walk you through each of these methods below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds and cuttings, pots or seed trays, potting mix, rooting hormone (not essential), a garden fork or trowel 1) Growing From Seed Yarrow can be grown from seed, sown either in autumn (indoors or under cover) or in spring, either in containers to be planted out later, or directly where they are to grow. Germination will usually take place within 2-3 weeks. Wherever the seeds are sown, keep the soil moist, but also ensure that it is not waterlogged and that the medium is draining freely. Excess water can increase the likelihood of dampness and other fungal issues. One thing to note, however, is that if you are growing one of the many cultivars available, many are hybrids and will not come true from seed. In other words, the plant which grows from the seed may not resemble the plant which it came from, so flower colour and other characteristics may not be retained. To create plants identical to their parent, this is the only method which you should avoid. 2) Taking Cuttings Achillea cuttings are best taken in early spring. Softwood cuttings should be taken by pulling away new shoots from the plant with a heel at the base. These cuttings should be placed into a moist yet free-draining potting mix with added sand for drainage. Place them around the edges of a small container. You can dip the ends of the shoots into rooting hormone to improve success rates, but this is not usually required. Leave the cuttings in a cool bright place out of direct sunlight and they should form their own roots within a few weeks. After this, they can be potted on into individual pots to grow on until they are planted out into the garden once well established. 3) Dividing If you have a mature Achillea in your garden, the best and easiest way to increase your plant stock is to divide the plant. The division is best undertaken in spring. “Whether grown from seed or bought as a plant,” says qualified Horticulturist Colin Skelly, “once you have the Achillea of your choice it is very easy to propagate more through dividing established plants.” “Towards the end of the summer, select a healthy plant and lift it with a garden spade or fork. “You will notice that the plant is actually a collection of plantlets that can be pulled apart from the parent plant. “Ensure that each plantlet removed has some root attached and then plant into a pot or another spot in the garden. Each division should have roots and some above-ground growth. Larger divisions (where the parent is simply divided in two, for example) can be planted into the growing positions in the garden straight away. Smaller divisions can be potted up and grown on until well established, and transplanted a little later into the garden. “Water well and then leave to establish – they should form healthy new plants for the following summer. “This is also a way to keep achilleas persisting in the garden as they can be short-lived when not divided.”
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Yarrow Is Fairly Low-Maintenance, But Cutting Back Before The Growing Season Can Help
IN THIS GUIDE Deadheading Yarrow How To Prune Yarrow Cutting Back Achillea, also known as yarrow, is one of the easiest perennials to grow and is a rewarding and highly useful addition to many gardens. Achillea does not really need to be pruned at all and is a very low-maintenance plant. However, you can if you wish: Deadhead the flowers through the summer to encourage more blooms to form. Cut back stems after the first flush of flowering to use the material. Cut back hard at the end of the growing season, or in spring. I’d recommend doing so in March here in the UK. Read on to learn more about each of these steps. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, secateurs When To Prune March Deadheading Yarrow Yarrows bloom throughout the summer, and can continue to do so until September or even October in the right conditions. Deadheading the flowers which form in early summer can encourage a second flush of growth and further blooms that extend well into autumn. As each flowering umbel fades and begins to go to seed, simply take secateurs and snip it off halfway down the stem. This will avoid the plant from wasting energy on seed production where this is not required or desired and will keep plants looking neater. However, you may sometimes wish to leave some yarrow flowers to go to seed. It can sometimes be beneficial to allow the plant to self-seed – you can collect seeds to sow in autumn, or the following spring. Just note that not all cultivars will come true from seed, so it can pay not to be too zealous in deadheading. “Collecting seed or allowing achillea to self-seed can be an exciting way to originate unique seedlings as no two will be alike,” says Colin Skelly. “If there is one that you really like then you can increase it by division and have a plant that is a signature for your garden.” Remember that if you want the same characteristics as the parent plant then propagating by division is an easy way to do this. How To Prune Yarrow Achillea is cut back at different times depending on location, preference and need. Yarrow can be used as cut flowers as plant matter to maintain fertility in an organic garden. After the first flush of flowering, in the summer, yarrows can be cut back harder to the basal foliage (the leaves right at the base of the plant). The stems, fading flowers and all can be very useful to organic gardeners. The material that is cut off can be chopped and dropped as an organic mulch material, added to your composting system, or used to make an organic liquid plant feed. Cutting Back In colder climates, yarrow is often cut back hard in autumn, with the onset of winter, to within a few centimetres of the ground. But here in the UK, it is best to leave the foliage over the winter months before cutting back in early spring. Leave the foliage in place over winter as a habitat for wildlife, and also to offer a little more protection to the roots and crown of this clump-forming perennial. Then cut right back to the base just before new growth emerges the following year.
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These 15 Self-Seeding Yarrow Varieties Are A Dream For Organic Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE 1) A. ageratifolia 2) A. filipendulina ‘Cloth of Gold’ 3) A. ‘Coronation Gold’ 4) A. × lewisii ‘King Edward’ 5) A. millefolium 6) A. ‘Credo’ 7) A. ‘Heidi’ 8) A. ‘Lachsschönheit’ 9) A. ‘Moonshine’ 10) A. ‘Paprika’ 11) A. ‘Petra’ 12) A. ‘Summerwine’ 13) A. ‘Terracotta’ 14) A. ‘The Beacon’ 15) A. ptarmica ‘The Pearl’ Also known as yarrows, Achilleas are commonly included in any eco-friendly, wildlife-friendly planting schemes. Yarrow is wonderful for organic gardeners, prized for its ability to attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to aid in pest control, and for its ability to dynamically accumulate nutrients from the soil. What’s more, it looks great too! There are a number of named cultivars of yarrow commonly grown in perennial beds and borders as an ornamental addition. Many of the varieties are cultivars of Achillea millefolium, common yarrow, though as you will discover below, there are a few other key species to consider. “Achillea is a very versatile genus of garden plants offering something for most styles and sizes of garden,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Cultivars of Achillea millefolium and Achillea filipendulina can be used in a traditional herbaceous border, in a cottage garden or naturalised with grasses in a prairie style. “The smaller species can be grown in rockeries, gravel gardens, pots or the front of a border.” So let’s take a look at some fantastic yarrow varieties that you could grow – all of which should be grown in full sun. 1) A. ageratifolia COMMON NAME(S): balkan yarrow HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This Achillea, also known as Balkan yarrow or Greek yarrow, is a smaller alpine-type perennial which makes small mounded clumps around 20cm high. The small solitary flowering heads are around 2.5cm wide, with soft yellow centres and white petals. H5 hardy, these can be a great choice for rock or gravel gardens or coastal locations. This is an RHS Award of Garden Merit plant. 2) A. filipendulina ‘Cloth of Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘cloth of gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn A. filipendulina is an Asian species of yarrow. ‘Cloth of Gold’ is one of the cultivars of this species which has been awarded an RHS Award of Garden Merit. This cultivar grows to around 1-1.5m in height with a spread of 45cm and has vibrant yellow flowers. It can work very well in the middle or towards the back of a border. 3) A. ‘Coronation Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘coronation gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn Growing to around 1m in height, this is another cultivar with an RHS Award of Garden Merit. It also has stunning bright yellow flowers. For this variety and other taller types, staking can be beneficial before flowering, though it is not usually essential. Like the above, it can work well towards the middle or back of an informal, wildlife-friendly border. 4) A. × lewisii ‘King Edward’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘King Edward’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Yellow and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This small hybrid type is a small and compact plant, which grows only to around 10cm in height. It bears clumps of yellow flowers, which fade to creamy hues as the season progresses. This plant also has an Award of Garden Merit and is great for a rock or gravel garden, a coastal location, or for use as a container plant. 5) A. millefolium COMMON NAME(S): common yarrow HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Common yarrow, the species type, is native to the UK. It has small flowers in creamy whites or pale pink, born from June to August, and works very well in a wildlife-friendly and informal planting scheme. It is H7 hardy so will overwinter throughout the UK, even with the harshest of winters. It can self-seed readily. 6) A. ‘Credo’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘credo’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Though sometimes short-lived, this yarrow is another option to bring vibrant yellow hues to your garden. Another AGM plant, ‘Credo’ has all the benefits of the above, but offers a different colour of flowers from the species type. 7) A. ‘Heidi’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘Heidi’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn If you love bright pink, then this could be a good yarrow to consider. ‘Heidi’ grows around 60cm tall, and its flowers are a purple-pink hue, which gradually fades to lighter pink as the season continues. Flowers are born all summer and often well into the autumn too. 8) A. ‘Lachsschönheit’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘Lachsschönheit’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream, orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Lachsschönheit’ or ‘Salmon Beauty’ is a yarrow in the Galaxy series. As the name suggests, the flowers of this option are charming salmon pink, and gradually fade to a more creamish pink hue. They are born over the summer months. 9) A. ‘Moonshine’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘moonshine’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn ‘Moonshine’ is another cheery yarrow to consider, with bright yellow flowers. It grows to around 60cm in height and works well, like other cultivars of this species, in a wide range of settings where there is full sun and moist yet free-draining soil. 10) A. ‘Paprika’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘paprika’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Another colourful cultivar to consider is ‘Paprika’ with its pinkish-red flowers and bright yellow centres. Around 60-80cm in height, this is a great option for the middle of a border, where it will flower throughout the summer months. 11) A. ‘Petra’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘Petra’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: White and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn Another colourful variant is ‘Petra’, which has deeper red flowers, each one with a creamy white centre. Starting out as a rich-ruby hue, the colours do not tend to fade as significantly over the course of the season as other vibrant cultivars. 12) A. ‘Summerwine’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘summerwine’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Summerwine’ is another AGM-awarded cultivar which has vibrant flowers. In this case, the flowers are a deep, velvety red wine hue. Like the others on this list, the colours gradually fade over the season, bringing more variation and interest to your planting scheme. 13) A. ‘Terracotta’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘terracotta’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn Truly stunning and unusual, ‘Terracotta’ is a cultivar with stunning deep orange blooms. The burnished orange flowers fade to a somewhat more mellow orange hue as the season continues. The striking shades work very well with deep purple flowers, like salvias or nepetas. 14) A. ‘The Beacon’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘Fanal’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘The Beacon’ is another vibrant Achillea cultivar with deep post-box red flowers and small yellow centres. This is also a great choice for mixed perennial borders which work well for wildlife and offers plenty of ornamental appeal. 15) A. ptarmica ‘The Pearl’ COMMON NAME(S): sneezewort ‘the pearl’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Last but not least, you could also consider this cultivar of A. ptarmica (the wild tansy), which has pretty white flowers with a double form. The white blooms look great when planted in generous drifts, and also make great cut flowers. The yarrows on this list are just some of the many enticing options to consider, but the options listed could be a great place to begin when trying to find the perfect yarrows for your garden.
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Gerberas Need To Be Deadheaded To Ensure Healthy Growth - Experts Share How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead 1) Clean Your Tools 2) Prune Stems 3) Pinch Or Trim Leaves 4) Feed With Liquid Fertiliser Other Ways To Enjoy Your Gerberas Gerberas are part of the daisy family and produce beautiful blooms, bursting with colour. Coming in single shades or multi-coloured, gerberas can be planted both indoors and outdoors and are a splendid addition to any home or garden. This plucky little plant can bloom from spring all the way through summer, with some varieties flowering up to the first frosts. They are also adored by bees and other essential pollinators. Like many members of the daisy family, gerberas need to be deadheaded to ensure healthy growth and to extend blooming periods. Here are the 4 easy steps you need to follow to do this: Rinse a pair of scissors or pruners. Prune the flower stems back. Pinch or trim older leaves. Feed your gerberas with a liquid fertiliser. These steps are explained in more detail below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Kitchen scissors or pruners When To Deadhead March-September (when flowers are withering) When To Deadhead When your gerbera’s flowers are starting to wilt, before the petals have fallen off, it’s time to deadhead them. “Gerberas are definitely one of those plants that benefit from deadheading,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Aside from encouraging further flowering, the dead stems really do detract from the bright fresh blooms.” This could be anytime during the blooming period between March and September. 1) Clean Your Tools We recommend doing this in a solution of 1 part bleach and 9 parts water. This will sterilise the tool and prevent diseased organisms from spreading to the gerbera whilst deadheading. 2) Prune Stems From the flowering head, follow the stem down to where it emerges from the foliage and make the cut. 3) Pinch Or Trim Leaves When leaves become tired and shabby-looking, you can pinch or trim them. This will keep your gerbera looking its best and will also encourage new foliage growth. 4) Feed With Liquid Fertiliser Blend up a half-strength, well-balanced liquid fertiliser and feed your gerberas every couple of weeks during spring and summer. This will encourage continued blooming. By repeating these steps when needed, you will extend the blooming cycle substantially and really get the most out of your gerberas. Other Ways To Enjoy Your Gerberas You can make absolutely glorious indoor arrangements with gerberas. When your plant is in full bloom, you can take a clean pair of kitchen scissors or shears and cut the stem near the base of the plant. Fill a broad-based vase with 2cm of water. This shallow water reserve helps to slow down stem decay, keeping your gerberas looking healthy and happy for longer. Place the trimmed stems in the vase, arrange them to your liking and enjoy!
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Water Exposure Could Cause Brown Spots On Gerbera Leaves Argues Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE What Causes Brown Spots? Preventing Brown Spots Spot The Difference References Gerberas have been a firm favourite in British gardens for centuries and are frequently used in bouquets. In fact, they are so popular, it has been claimed that they are the fifth most-used cut flowers in the world.1 With short and long-stemmed varieties, they can be used in large ornamental displays or made into cute little posies. In addition to this, when planted, gerberas really do bring absolute joy to the garden, but they can be faced with a couple of issues. A common problem you will come up against with gerberas is brown spots. In this article, we will look at how to avoid brown spots on your leaves and petals – as well as how to deal with them if they appear. What Causes Brown Spots? The brown spots that can appear on gerberas are usually caused by Alternaria, which is a fungus that flourishes in humid environments.2 The leading cause of Alternaria is water splashing on the leaves during rainfall or watering, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “Too much water and splashing are the enemies of Gerbera growers in the UK. “Whilst it is possible to control watering, it is not possible to control the rain. “However, I have found placing pots under the eaves of the house or in the lee of a wall can help.” Preventing Brown Spots Brown spots on gerberas are unsightly and ruin the natural beauty of the plant, but never fear – we have some brilliant solutions to help you avoid brown spots and to keep your gerberas looking gorgeously glorious. There are lots of ways to avoid pesky brown spots on your gerberas, here are our top tips: When you water your gerberas, I recommend that you water thoroughly. Don’t over water. The soil should feel moist, not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage in the flowerbed or pot. Feed your gerberas frequently in spring and summer with a well-balanced liquid fertiliser. Pinch off old, dead leaves and discard them. This will ensure healthy new foliage growth. Clear fallen leaves away from the plant or they will encourage fungus to grow. Water at the base of the plant, taking care to avoid splashing the leaves. Do not use sprinklers or overhead watering. Wait for the soil to become dry before watering again. If you are planting multiple gerberas, make sure they are spaced evenly, giving them adequate space to grow and to allow for air circulation. Spot The Difference Yes, by following those easy steps you will really be able to spot the difference and avoid those nasty brown spots, instead keeping your gerberas healthy and happy – just like they keep us. References 1. Wholesale Gerbera Guide & Wedding Flower Guides UK. (n.d.). Triangle Nursery. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.trianglenursery.co.uk/flower-guides/gerbera-guide 2. Orton, T. G. (2020). Breeding for Disease and Insect Resistance. Elsevier EBooks, 345–382. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-815396-3.00019-6
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Shasta Daisy Growing Tips: 'It Would Be Hard Not To Get A Very Pleasing Display Of Flowers'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Shasta Daisy Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems References Shasta daisies have long been a gardener’s favourite and for good reason. With a long flowering season, they will brighten up any border or container and attract a myriad of pollinators into the garden. Shasta daisies are easy to grow and care for and are perfect to use as a cut flower or as a filler in a flower bed. “If I’m asked for a recommendation for a perennial by someone who is new to gardening, I will often suggest a Shasta Daisy,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “It would be hard not to get a very pleasing display of flowers and invariably encourages further experimentation with other plants and combinations. It’s also great for multiple styles and sizes of gardens.” Overview Botanical Name Leucanthemum × superbum Common Name(s) Shasta daisy / Chrysanthemum superbum Plant Type Ornamental perennial Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White petals with yellow centres When To Plant March-June When To Prune November-February (deadhead throughout flowering season) Leucanthemum x superbum, or the Shasta daisy as they are more commonly known, are herbaceous clump-forming perennials and part of the Asteraceae family.1 Slightly confusingly, they were previously classed as a member of the Chrysanthemum genus and take their name Leucanthemum from the Greek words for ‘white’ and ‘flower’.2 Originally bred in California from other Leucanthemum species, it is named after Mount Shasta, as the white flowers are said to resemble its white snowy peak.3 Since then and through further breeding, Shasta daisies are now available in a range of different sizes, shapes and even colours. Shasta daisies are hardy and tough and are able to survive all but the very worst winters here in the UK, as they can withstand temperatures down to -15°C. Loved by pollinators, Shasta daisies provide a great source of nectar and pollen for bees and other insects when they are in flower during the summer months. Common Varieties Shasta daisies are often known for their white petals surrounding a yellow centre with either single or double flowers. Shasta daisies are widely available here in the UK from garden centres and online suppliers. Available in a range of sizes from 20cm tall dwarf varieties to some varieties nearly 1m in height, there is one to suit every garden. Some varieties include: L. × superbum ‘Real Galaxy’ This variety produces stunning semi-double flowers with white petals. Growing to a height of 60cm with a 45cm spread, it does equally well in a border or large container. L. × superbum ‘Madonna’ ‘Madonna’ is a dwarf variety growing to only 20cm tall and wide, making it perfect for a pot. With its classic white petals and yellow centres, it will flower from June until September. L. × superbum ‘Banana Cream’ This variety is a real show-stopper. Producing large 10cm diameter flowers with a yellow centre and pale lemony coloured petals, it can grow to up to 30cm tall with almost double the spread. L. × superbum ‘Wirral Supreme’ ‘Wirral Supreme’ is definitely one for the border as it grows to 90cm in height over time. With double flowers and a frilly centre, it is great when used as a cut flower. Having been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit, it has been shown to perform reliably well in the garden. L. x superbum ‘Real Dream’ ‘Real Dream’ is a relatively small variety growing to only 40cm high. Ideal for the front or middle of a border it produces an endless display of pale yellow flowers with darker yellow centres. How To Grow Shasta Daisy Where To Grow Shasta daisies are a very tolerant plant. Preferring full sun, a south or west-facing situation is ideal. However, they will also grow in partial shade, although possibly flowering a little less. They will cope with any moist, but well-drained soil whether in a border or in a pot or container. Shasta daisies do prefer to be out of the wind though, so do benefit from a bit of shelter. Shasta daisies are an easy plant to grow and care for. Most often bought as plants, they can also be grown from seed or division. Planting Whether to grow in a border or in a container the ideal time to plant a shasta daisy is in spring or autumn. If planting in a border, dig a hole twice as wide as the pot and at least as deep. Plant the shasta daisy at the same depth it was previously planted and backfill with soil, firming in as you go. If the soil is poor, it is worth adding some organic matter or compost at this stage to help feed the plant. Water well on planting and until the plant is established, after which watering can be reduced. When planting in a container the above guidance is the same, although it is recommended to use a potting soil mix to plant with. Growing From Seed Shasta daisies can be grown from seed, however, they will often not bloom until the following year, so a level of patience is required. To grow from seed, sow the seeds in February to April in a seed or module tray, using a seed sowing compost and covering lightly. Water gently or from below after sowing and keep moist and place on a windowsill or in an unheated greenhouse. Germination usually takes 2-4 weeks and once the seedlings have grown their first true leaves, they can be carefully pricked out and potted on. Keep undercover until the last frosts have passed and harden off before planting out. If sowing outdoors, wait until the last frost has passed, usually around May to June, and sow thinly in a well-prepared seedbed raked to a fine tilth. Keep watered and weed-free and once germinated, thin out to give the plants space to grow before moving them to their final position in early autumn. Ongoing Plant Care Pruning Once established, Shasta daisies need little care except for deadheading and cutting back. Once the flowers begin to fade, the blooms can be cut off to promote further flowering throughout the summer months. After the first frost, the plant can be cut back to 3-5cm from the soil level to overwinter. Feeding As a perennial, come spring new growth will appear, which is the perfect time to add a slow-release fertiliser and a layer of mulch, which will help suppress weeds and conserve moisture during the growing season. Supporting Some of the larger varieties such as ‘Wirral Supreme’ and ‘Real Galaxy’ can grow quite tall and will certainly benefit from supports of some kind to prevent them falling over. Whether homemade from bamboo canes or hazel sticks or if using metal supports, it is advisable to install these before the plant gets too tall, as it is far easier to do when the plants are still small. Dividing Shasta daisy plants can grow quite rapidly leading to large and sometimes congested clumps in only a few years. It is advisable to divide the plants every 3-5 years or as required to keep the plants blooming well and to avoid them becoming overcrowded. To divide lift the whole plant, ideally in spring, and cut away any dead wood. Split the remaining plant and roots into smaller sections and plant at a spacing of 30cm to allow them room to grow or pot up in containers. Companion Planting Shasta daisies are easy to accommodate in most gardens, but perhaps suit a cottage style or informal planting scheme best. Shasta daisies go well with many plants but perhaps look especially good when planted with perovskia, crocosmia and rudbeckia. They are also a great perennial for a cutting patch as they have such a long flowering season. Common Problems Shasta daisies are generally unaffected by pests and diseases although they, along with many other plants, can be susceptible to aphids and verticillium wilt. Aphids Aphids are sap-sucking bugs that are often attracted to Leucanthemum plants and infestations can lead to reduced growth and curled or distorted leaves. Usually visible to the naked eye, they tend to congregate on new growth and flower buds prior to opening. Check plants regularly from spring onwards and if found, present action can include squishing by hand where numbers are small and encouraging predatory ladybirds and hoverflies into the garden. For severe infestations, organic sprays may be used. Verticillium Wilt Verticillium wilt is a common soil fungal disease that can affect ornamentals, fruit and vegetables – including Shasta daisies. Symptoms can include the leaves yellowing and shrivelling up and the plant suddenly wilting in hot weather. Depending on the severity, the affected plants may recover when cooler weather arrives and with heavy watering. There is no chemical control available for verticillium wilt and the fungus can be spread through soil movement and contamination. Therefore, care must be taken if verticillium wilt is confirmed and any infected plants and their roots disposed of and soil not moved around. Once any infected plants have been removed, it is advisable to either replant with verticillium wilt-resistant plants or grass over the affected area for many years. References 1. Shasta Daisy. (n.d.). Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/wildseed/shastadaisy.html 2. Leucanthemum × superbum “Snow Lady.” (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=244692&isprofile=0&cv 3. Daly, G. (2017, July 23). Shasta shines by the seaside. Independent. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.independent.ie/life/shasta-shines-by-the-seaside-35958048.html
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Fred Miller On Growing Gladioli In Containers - 'You Can Get 4–6 Corms In One Pot'
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing A Container Choosing A Growing Medium Planting And Growing Potting On Or Transplanting Potted Gladioli Care There are so many reasons why you might grow your gladioli in containers. You can do away with the hassle of digging up corms in open ground to overwinter them indoors by simply growing them in pots and moving them to a cool and dark basement or shed. Also, as deciduous perennials, gladioli do not rapidly grow large root systems, so you won’t have to pot them on as you have to do with so many other plants. You’ll just have to dig them up about once every 3 years to separate the corms. Gladiolus flowers are truly sensuous, with their open-throat trumpet-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers that range in profusion right down the flower stalk. As a result, many a variety will make a cracking accent plant on the doorstep or on the patio – another reason why you should consider container growing! Choosing A Container Compared to other plants of the same size, gladioli can be grown in relatively small pots. But the size is still important, argues Fred Miller from the Empire State Gladiolus Society: “Be sure to pick a big enough pot, at least 12” (30cm) x 16” (41cm) deep.” As they are not bushy plants, pots do not need to be very wide. However, the pots you choose must have multiple drainage holes, as gladioli require excellent drainage, and, because damp soil is a no-no and breathability is important, clay or terra-cotta pots are the preferred options. “I always grow Gladiolus in pots because I have a heavy soil, which causes corms to rot in winter,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I use a long tomato pot (narrow but deep) using John Innes 2 with some added grit. “This provides plenty of nutrients and moisture-holding whilst also draining freely. In late winter or early spring, I harvest the corms and replant them with fresh compost to keep the corms from becoming overcrowded.” “Be sure to have good drainage in the bottom,” echoes Fred. How Many Gladioli Per Pot? Gladioli are among the plants that play well among themselves, though they do not compete well for soil nutrients with many other plants. Even though they certainly should not be overcrowded, gladioli’s tall and narrow form makes them amenable to sharing pots. Fred explains: “You can get 4 – 6 corms in one pot, just spread them out. If you have chosen a tall variety, you may want to add support for them. “This is best done at the time of planting so you do not disturb the roots.” If unsure, try planting 3 medium-sized corms in a triangular arrangement in a pot of 30cm diameter, or you could grow 6 gladioli in a planter about 50cm wide. Choosing A Growing Medium Gladioli need fast and free-draining soil. It’s important that the soil does not stay damp, so I suggest you start with a layer of gravel at the bottom of the pot. These plants do best in fertile soil. As such, a mix of clay-free sandy loam amended with organic compost will be very suitable. High-quality potting soil amended with grit and/or perlite will prove equally good. Finally, add a controlled-release balanced fertiliser to the soil, which will mean you will not have to fertilise the potted plants again. Planting And Growing Gladioli corms should be planted about 2 weeks before the last expected frost of the season. As you will be growing these plants in pots, if you live in a mild region or if you can protect the pots from a snap frost, you can plant them even earlier. The drop-shaped corms are to be planted with the tip upwards. Water them well after planting so that the soil is soaked all the way through. If you plant corms at intervals of 10-20 days, you will enjoy blooms all through the summer and even into early autumn, weather permitting. Place the pots where they can get several hours of sun every day. Also, be sure that the containers are in a sheltered spot, do not have northern exposure, and are protected from stiff winds. Potting On Or Transplanting Gladioli are not typically potted on or transplanted as the corms are usually planted in the location where you want to grow the plant. Remember, you do not want to disturb the root system of any cormous (or bulbous) perennial during the growing season. If you want to transfer your gladiolus to a different container or want to plant it in open ground, simply wait until mid-late autumn. Then you can dig up the corm and the following season you can plant it in the desired spot. Potted Gladioli Care Water gladioli thoroughly and deeply about once a week, allowing the subsoil to just dry out between waterings. If you did not add in slow-release fertiliser to the soil, then you can fertilise the plants with a high-potash liquid fertiliser. Finally, these plants often require staking. As the young plants are shooting up, especially if you see them struggling, use twine and a cane to keep them upright. Push in the cane as early as possible so that you eliminate the risk of damaging young roots. You can always tie the plants later.
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