Growing
The Basics Of Philodendron Houseplant Care From Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Is My Plant A Pothos Or A Philodendron? Growing From Seed Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems Propagation Overwintering References Philodendrons make exceptional houseplants which are wonderful for even novice gardeners, but there are still certain things you need to know to grow them successfully. In this guide, you will learn a lot more about philodendron plants and some commonly grown members of this genus. You’ll also learn how to grow and care for these plants and get the information you need to keep them happy and healthy in your home. Overview Botanical Name Philodendron Plant Type Perennial Houseplant Native Area South and Central America Hardiness Rating H1B/H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Tiny flowers When To Plant March-May (but can be grown year-round) When To Prune March-September Philodendron is a large genus within the Araceae plant family.1 There are approaching 600 different species within this genus, but the best-known species are those which are commonly grown as houseplants in the UK and other temperate regions.2 These plants can have a range of different growth habits, but those grown as houseplants can usually be divided into two categories – climbers or vines, and non-climbing types. Both types are prized as foliage plants, with glossy green leaves which can add an exotic touch to your home without a lot of effort. “Philodendron is one of my favourite houseplant genera,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are very easy to grow and provide a real exotic flavour. The options for upright, climbing or trailing species also provide a great many choices. “I like to grow mine with ferns as I love the contrast of leaf textures.” Common Varieties The most commonly grown species of philodendron grown as houseplants are: P. scandens P. bipinnatifidum P. erubescens P. melanochrysum P. ‘Congo Rojo’ Is My Plant A Pothos Or A Philodendron? Philodendron scandens is arguably the most popular of the above. This plant is sometimes confused with another very popular houseplant – Pothos, or ‘Devil’s Ivy’. Here are some ways to tell these two plants apart: The leaves on philodendron have more heart-shaped and thinner, softer leaves, while pothos leaves are thicker and have a more waxy texture. Both plants have aerial roots, but pothos only has one aerial root per node, while philodendron can have several. The petioles (small stems that join the leaves to the main stems) on philodendron are thinner than those of pothos, and their petioles are fully rounded rather than indented towards the stem they connect with. Growing From Seed Philodendrons are usually purchased as houseplants, or propagated by means of cuttings. It is possible to grow philodendrons from seed, though this is a very slow process and not usually something recommended for novice gardeners. If you do decide to give it a go: Sow seeds around 1cm deep, at a spacing of around 5cm. Place a seed tray or small pots in a lidded propagator, removing the lid occasionally to allow ventilation. Soil temperatures between 20-23°C degrees as required. Keep the growing medium moist. Seeds should germinate in around 2-8 weeks time. Ongoing Plant Care Fortunately, you do not have to go to the trouble of propagating these houseplants from seed. These are frequently offered for sale and you can simply buy one to grow inside your home. Picking up a philodendron can be a great choice for those new to growing houseplants since these plants are very easy to care for. The most important thing is making sure that the environmental conditions are right. Here’s what you need to know to create a good home for your philodendron: Light In their native habitat, philodendrons grow in the dappled shade under the canopy of a tropical forest. They grow best in a relatively bright spot out of direct light, but they can also cope with lower light conditions. In lower light conditions, these plants can still survive but can become leggy, with lots of space between the leaves. Too much direct sunlight can cause yellowing leaves and sun damage. Soil Requirements A loam-based peat-free potting mix is ideal for growing philodendron plants. They like a rich and fertile medium, with plenty of organic matter. The medium should be moist, yet free-draining. It is best to replace the soil in your container every couple of years, both to maintain fertility and because salts can build up in the medium from watering, and philodendrons can be sensitive to this. Watering Philodendrons like moderate soil moisture. Leaves can wilt both with too little water and too much. Always use rainwater where possible. You can aim for the ‘goldilocks zone’ and get things just right by inserting a finger into the top of the soil, and watering again when the top 2cm or so of the medium feels dry. Make sure drainage is sufficient as philodendrons don’t like sitting in waterlogged conditions. If you bottom water, you should flush through the medium by watering from above every now and then to reduce salts. Remember that water needs will vary based on where a plant is placed, the time of year, and also on which specific variety you are growing. Climbing types tend to be a little less drought tolerant than non-climbing types, and plants will need far less water in winter. Temperature & Humidity Some philodendrons are more tolerant of lower temperatures than others. Most should not be exposed to temperatures below 12°C. Ideally, philodendrons should be placed somewhere with moderately high humidity. If the air in your home is rather dry, it is best to mist the plant every few days. Feeding A philodendron grown in a suitably rich growing medium may not require additional fertilisation at all, but if the plant seems lacking in vigour, you can feed it with a weak, balanced organic liquid feed once a month during the active growth period. Pruning You can quite safely remove any naturally yellowing leaves or lightly trim weak growth at any time of the year. If you wish to remove more of a leggy vine, it is best to prune in spring or summer. Cut just above a node and remember that pruned material might be used for propagation (see below). Often, however, no pruning is required. Common Problems Serious problems are rare and any problems that do arise are usually due to you failing to meet the needs of the plant by providing the right environmental conditions. Frequently, a problem with either too much or too little water is the issue. Usually trouble-free, philodendrons, like other houseplants, can be troubled by pests like scale insects, thrips and red spider mites. Generally, philodendrons don’t suffer from diseases and are remarkably robust plants. Propagation As well as propagating by seed, these plants can also be propagated by means of stem tips or leaf bud cuttings. Simply take cuttings around 15cm long. Place these around the edges of a small pot filled with a damp but free-draining medium, using a rooting hormone to increase the chances of successful rooting. Roots should begin to develop within a few weeks. Some philodendrons also develop small plantlets which can be removed from the main plant with the roots intact and carefully transplanted into their own separate containers. Potting & Repotting Philodendrons should be planted in containers just a little larger than the existing rootball. Repot when roots start emerging on the surface of the soil and pop out through the drainage holes at the base of the pot. Ideally, this should be done in late spring or early summer. Use fresh potting mix around the plant each time you do this job and, as mentioned above, you should ideally replace the medium, even if not repotting, every couple of years. Overwintering Philodendrons are usually grown inside your home year-round, though some of the less tender types can be placed outdoors in summer and then brought back indoors well before the first frosts. References 1. Loss-Oliveira, L., Sakuragui, C. M., De Lourdes Soares, M., & Schrago, C. G. (2016). Evolution of Philodendron (Araceae) species in Neotropical biomes. PeerJ, 4, e1744. https://doi.org/10.7717/peerj.1744 2. Philodendron. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved July 18, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:326132-2#children
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Growing The Exotic Strelitzia 'Bird Of Paradise' Plant At Home - It's Ideal For A Conservatory
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Plant Care Propagation References Strelitzia is a great conservatory plant to bring an exotic feel to your home. In this guide, you can learn how to keep it happy and enjoy its astonishing blooms. This plant is well known for its surprising bright orange and electric blue flowers, which really do look like the head of some fantastical bird.1 It cannot cope outdoors in winter in the UK, but it can be grown in a conservatory or another bright spot within your home and placed outdoors in a suitable spot over the summer. In this guide, we have collaborated with Harriet Thompson, the founder of Harriet’s Plants. “Strelitzia nicolai is a great bright loving plant that is native to South Africa,” says Harriet. “It has stunning white, bird-like flowering spikes and is one of my favourite houseplants.” Overview Botanical Name Strelitzia Common Name(s) Bird of Paradise Plant Type Perennial Houseplant Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Exotic flowers resembling a bird When To Plant April-September The Bird of Paradise plant is native to South Africa, where it grows up to 2m tall.2 In the wild, it is pollinated by birds. This plant was first introduced to the UK in 1773 when it was grown at Kew Gardens.3 It is very popular as a houseplant here and in other temperate climes. Common Varieties Some options include: S. reginae S. reginae ‘Kirstenbosch Gold’ S. nicolai S. alba Plant Care Strelitzia plants do require careful thought as to where they are grown since they can be rather fussy about conditions. Here are some tips to help you understand what they need and the ongoing care that they will require. Light Exposure “The very best houseplant advice I can give, is right plant, right place,” says Harriet. “Having a place in mind for a houseplant and buying a suitable plant that will enjoy the lighting that area has to offer, sets the plant up for success when entering your home.” These plants require a light and bright location, with plenty of sunshine early or late in the day. A conservatory or another bright and humid room inside your home should be an ideal spot. In summer, you can also place your plant outdoors in a sunny and sheltered spot. Humidity & Temperature Strelitzia needs minimum night temperatures of 10-12°C in winter and will struggle and require additional ventilation in summer when temperatures rise about 20°C. If you do not place your plant outdoors for summer, you will need to make sure that it does not become too warm in your conservatory or wherever else in your home you have chosen to grow this plant. Open windows to increase airflow as needed. Humidity should be high, so inside your home, especially if the plant is in a centrally heated area, it may become too dry for these plants. Raise humidity in the area by grouping houseplants together and also by misting daily. Wiping down foliage with a damp cloth will also raise humidity whilst helping to keep the plant clean and free from dust. “I do find these plants suffer from mealybugs, which can be dealt with using plant oil,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist. “However, if it’s any consolation, they’re a sign the plant has the humidity it craves. The importance of humidity for strelitzia cannot be overstressed.” Watering Strelitzias must be watered to maintain a consistently moist growing medium in spring and summer, but make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged. However, you should tail off watering in autumn and from the end of November, the medium should be allowed to dry out between waterings. “Fresh and free-draining peat-free compost will also help to create a good watering schedule,” adds Harriet. Soil Requirements Pots for strelitzia should be filled with a John Innes No 3 compost with added grit for drainage or a homemade equivalent. You can also plant them outside in summer in well-drained soil as long as they are brought back inside again before the first frost. Pots should snugly accommodate the roots and the plants should only be potted up when roots appear at the top of the compost. Fertilising Regular feeding is essential during the growing season, which is usually between April and September. Apply an organic houseplant feed every couple of weeks during this time. Pruning You do not need to prune strelitzia. However, you can, if you wish, make the plant a little neater by cutting off any old or damaged leaves in the spring. Simply trim off these leaves to the base with sharp secateurs or a gardening knife. Blooming If you do not get flowers on your strelitzias, even though you have met all the conditions and provided all the care mentioned above, be patient. Your plant will take 3-4 years to bloom. Still, even before it does bloom, it can be an attractive houseplant with green, glossy leaves. Propagation Propagation can be achieved by means of sowing seeds, but you will need to have a lot of patience, as it can take 10 years from sowing for the plant to mature and bloom! You can achieve mature plants more quickly by dividing a mature plant by cutting the root ball in half and repotting. You can also cut away offsets which have formed around the base of the parent and place these in their own pots to grow on. References 1. Bird-of-paradise (Plant). (n.d.). San Diego Zoo Animals & Plants. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://animals.sandiegozoo.org/plants/bird-paradise-0 2. Strelitzia reginae. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:798194-1 3. Buckley, J. (2016, December 6). A royal flower- Bauer’s Strelitzia. Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/royal-flower-bauer
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Talking 8 Pretty Purple Phlox Varieties With Horticulturist Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE 1) P. paniculata ‘Blue Paradise’ 2) P. subulata ‘Emerald Cushion’ 3) P. ‘Violet Pinwheels’ 4) P. paniculata ‘Laura’ 5) P. subulata ‘Purple Beauty’ 6) P. paniculata ‘Little Boy’ 7) P. paniculata ‘Peacock Neon Purple’ 8) P. paniculata ‘Purple Kiss’ Available in a range of different colours, phlox is hugely popular among British gardeners thanks to its versatility and ease of cultivation. From herbaceous clump-forming varieties to their creeping counterparts, there’s a phlox for every occasion. Although other colours have their own merits, I genuinely believe purple phlox are among the loveliest in the plant’s spectrum. “Purple flowers will harmonise with blues and dark reds creating a calming effect,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “However, they will contrast with oranges and yellows to provide a vibrant, energetic atmosphere. You can add different foliage textures to further accentuate or dampen these effects.” That’s because of the way in which they can inject some energy or tranquillity into their surroundings, as the specimen dictates and the situation demands. With that in mind, I’ve compiled a list of eight of my favourite purple phlox varieties for your perusal. Check them out and get some inspiration for your next outdoor display! Just note, all of these varieties can be grown in either an exposed or sheltered location. 1) P. paniculata ‘Blue Paradise’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Blue Paradise’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Despite its name, ‘Blue Paradise’ carries blooms that are definitely more lavender in hue than blue. Nonetheless, the daily transformation from violet to indigo that they make as the sun dips in the sky is a sight to behold in any garden. Capable of growing up to 120cm in height, they’re one of the loftier phlox varieties available to you, and the fact that their sturdy stems carry a further suggestion of purple only enhances their ornamental attributes. 2) P. subulata ‘Emerald Cushion’ COMMON NAME(S): Phlox ‘Emerald Cushion Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread From one misnomer to another, ‘Emerald Cushion Blue’ is another specimen whose flowers are more amethyst than azure. However, unlike ‘Blue Paradise’, this phlox is of the creeping variety, meaning it provides excellent ground cover. Equally effective as a weed suppressant as it is as window dressing, ‘Emerald Cushion Blue’ should never exceed 15cm in height, but can span more than treble that in spread. That makes it perfect for use in covering over a bare patch or even dangling from a hanging basket for allure at altitude. 3) P. ‘Violet Pinwheels’ COMMON NAME(S): Creeping Phlox HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Violet Pinwheel’ is another creeping phlox variety that’s even shorter than the previous suggestion, reaching just 10cm at full maturity. It’s also a fairly brief bloomer, generally only sending forth flowerheads during springtime. However, the gorgeous lavender colours of its petals, along with the distinctive stellar shape they take, make it a showstopper at the peak of its powers. It’s not just a human audience it will wow during that window, either, with butterflies and bees attracted to its lightly fragranced blossoms as well. 4) P. paniculata ‘Laura’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Uspekh’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Flowering much later in the year, typically around July to September, ‘Laura’ is renowned for two things: the loveliness of its lavender petals, each of which is complemented by a completely white centre, and the potency of the honeyed fragrance it exudes. To take full advantage of both, you may wish to consider planting this phlox next to a window, doorway or path. This will allow you to enjoy the full force of its aroma as you pass by; just remember it can reach 90cm in height, so position your plant accordingly. 5) P. subulata ‘Purple Beauty’ COMMON NAME(S): Moss Phlox ‘Purple Beauty’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This vigorous creeper is characterised by the masses upon masses of star-shaped flowers it produces in spring, the subtle purple of the petals accentuated by the deep violet and yellow of its stamen. At the height of its activity, the blossoms will obscure the evergreen needle-like foliage beneath completely. Its tendency to grow in a carpet-like formation makes it ideal for edging borders or filling out empty terrain in beds. Place it alongside vibrant colours like yellows or reds for added oomph. 6) P. paniculata ‘Little Boy’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Little Boy’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full sun EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Little Boy Phlox’ is a slightly more delicate creature than many of its brethren, struggling under conditions of drought and plagued by powdery mildew, pests and other complaints. Nonetheless, it will reward those who take the time to care for it with its breathtaking blooms in summer and autumn. The panicles are formed of paper-like lilac petals, each with a smudge of white at its centre. It can grow up to 80cm in height and the same again in spread, while its long-lasting blossoms make it a perennial favourite despite its awkwardness. 7) P. paniculata ‘Peacock Neon Purple’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread With brightly-coloured panicles of magenta flowers set against lush green foliage, ‘Neon Purple’ is the very essence of vitality and vibrancy. It belongs to the Peacock series of Phlox paniculata – and it certainly knows how to display its tail feathers in your garden. At just 60cm in height and less than that in spread, it’s not too demanding in its spatial requirements and holds up well against disease and predators. As such, it’s an ideal option for smaller or urban gardens where space might not be at a premium. 8) P. paniculata ‘Purple Kiss’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Purple Kiss’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Like ‘Blue Paradise’, ‘Purple Kiss’ is also something of a chameleon in terms of the colours it wears throughout the day. At dawn, its petals will appear darker in tone, with a blue tinge adorning its purple mantle. By dusk, the hues have softened to something almost resembling pink. This, alongside the attractive white eyes at the centre of each flowerhead and the irresistible fragrances which draw in biodiversity, make ‘Purple Kiss’ popular across the UK and beyond. Again, it generally reaches about 60cm in height and half that in spread, making it entirely manageable in terms of its location in your garden.
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'I Don’t Deadhead Many Plants But Campanula Is One That I Do' - Here's Why It's Important
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead 1) Look For Faded Flowerheads 2) Cut Back To Lateral Buds 3) Remove Any Other Dead Or Dying Parts 4) Dispose Of Debris 5) Stay Vigilant With their bright colours and nodding flower heads, campanulas, better known as bellflowers, are strong performers in the height of summer. Although some species only bloom for less than a month, you can extend their flowering season with the right care and attention. Deadheading is the best way to achieve this. By doing so, you can divert energies which would have otherwise gone into seed production back towards blossoms, thus encouraging campanulas to flower well into autumn. ”I don’t deadhead many plants but Campanula is one that I do,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Firstly, because they tend to look unsightly, particularly the large-flowered species, and secondly, because it makes a big difference to the length of the growing season. “Campanula lactiflora is a species that can Chelsea chopped and have one-third cut back in mid-May which will result in later flowering.” Deadheading bellflowers is a very simple process. Follow the steps below and you can’t go wrong: Look for faded flowerheads. Cut back your bellflowers to their lateral buds. Remove any other dead or dying parts of the plant. Dispose of debris – typically by composting. Stay vigilant by regularly checking back and deadheading when necessary. When To Deadhead June and July are generally the months in which campanula are at their best, though the specific flowering season of your plant may vary depending on its cultivar and growing environment. Regardless of when it occurs, as soon as it’s in full bloom you should get ready to deadhead. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pruners When To Deadhead Every 5-7 days during flowering season 1) Look For Faded Flowerheads Carefully inspect your campanula, looking for signs of dying or fading flowerheads. Removing these is key to giving the plant a new lease of life since it will cease expending energy on producing seeds and instead redouble its blooming efforts. 2) Cut Back To Lateral Buds Once you have located a flower in need of deadheading, trace its stem back to a new lateral bud. It’s here that you’ll want to make your incision so as to give the bud as much opportunity to flourish as possible. You can pinch off the flowerhead with your index and middle fingers, though it’s advisable to use pruners if you have them to hand. This will ensure a cleaner cut and minimise the chance of the area becoming infected. 3) Remove Any Other Dead Or Dying Parts It’s not just flowers which may fade on your campanula. As well as removing all dying blossoms, you should also take the time to identify any leaves, stems or other parts which have seen better health. These should also be stripped away from the main body of the plant so that it doesn’t waste any energy in trying to keep them alive. 4) Dispose Of Debris Make sure that all trimmed flowers, leaves and other parts of the plant are disposed of appropriately, either in a compost bin or elsewhere. If you leave discarded parts of the plant around its base, you can attract aphids, slugs and snails, among other pests. These can compromise the long-term health of your plant. Some species can self-seed, too. 5) Stay Vigilant If you’re really serious about prolonging the blooming season of your campanula for as long as you can, deadheading will comprise a task that you come back to again and again. Ideally, you should give the plant a once-over on a daily basis to spot fading flowerheads as soon as they appear, though checking it every 5-7 days is also adequate.
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Sowing Campanula Seeds Under Cover In 7 Simple Steps With Jonathan Sweet
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Campanula 1) Prepare The Growing Medium 2) Sprinkle Your Seeds 3) Allow Germination To Take Place 4) Transplant Into Individual Pots 5) Prepare Outdoor Holes 6) Transplant to Final Location 7) Aftercare As their common name suggests, most varieties of campanula are immediately recognisable from their distinctive bell-shaped flowerheads. As a vibrant perennial, they make a great addition to any border or bed, especially as part of a classic cottage aesthetic. As resilient and resourceful plants, bellflowers present far fewer problems than many of their counterparts when growing from seed. It’s possible to plant them directly in the ground outside, though this can render them susceptible to the British climate. As such, we recommend first planting them in indoor trays, and then later transplanting them to their final location. This will give them the best chance to flourish, though the choice is entirely yours. The following steps cater for both options, so you can proceed in whichever manner you see fit: Prepare your growing medium / seed tray. Sprinkle your seeds liberally on the surface of your growing medium. Allow germination to take place. Transplant seedlings into individual pots. Prepare your outdoor location. Transplant to the final planting location. Care for your new plants. And that’s it! For those who require a little more guidance, here’s a rundown of those steps in greater detail: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seed tray, individual pots (10cm diameter), a small trowel and border fork, compost/potting mix/peat When To Sow Autumn to spring, depending on location When To Plant Out Spring (after last frost has passed) When To Sow Campanula The best time to sow campanula seeds depends on where you plan to plant them. Those grown directly outdoors should be sown in springtime after the last frost of the previous winter has passed. On the other hand, campanulas grown indoors can be sown anytime between autumn and spring. Seeds planted earlier can flower as quickly as April, while those sown later are likely to bloom in late summer. 1) Prepare The Growing Medium Regardless of whether you’re planting indoors or outdoors, it’s essential that you prepare the soil to ensure that it has all the appropriate characteristics for your plants to thrive. This means ensuring good drainage by working the terrain over, as well as enhancing it with a thin layer of compost or organic mulch. If using a seed tray, opt for potting mix or compost to achieve the best results. 2) Sprinkle Your Seeds Bellflower seeds don’t need to be planted at all, since they require sunlight to help with the germination process. Instead, simply sprinkle a handful of seeds over the surface of your prepared soil and gently press them down into its surface. Don’t worry about the placement of the seeds too much at this point. 3) Allow Germination To Take Place While the seeds are in the process of germination, it’s essential that you keep them warm and moist. Place them on a sunny windowsill if growing outdoors and mist them regularly but lightly. If growing outdoors, keep an eye on the weather to see if you need to irrigate in addition to Mother Nature’s offerings. Sprouts should begin to appear within 2-3 weeks. 4) Transplant Into Individual Pots Once seedlings have begun to emerge and have grown large enough to handle, it’s time to thin them out and transplant them into individual pots. Dig them up and carefully untangle each seedling from its neighbours if necessary. Plant each individual seedling into a pot that is of sufficient size (around 10cm in diameter) to allow its roots to develop. Position them in a cold frame. 5) Prepare Outdoor Holes Campanulas do best when given access to full sunlight and well-draining soil beneath their feet. The composition of the terrain isn’t as important as ensuring it retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. When planting more than one campanula plant at a time, make sure the holes are 30-40cm apart. Don’t make the hole too deep – the top of the roots should remain flush with the ground. 6) Transplant to Final Location If you have been cultivating your campanulas indoors at this point, make sure that the last frost (and a minimum of two months since the initial sowing) has passed before transplanting. “Plants raised under glass should ideally be hardened off before planting,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “This means adjusting the plant from a controlled life in a greenhouse to the more variable conditions outdoors. “Typically, this involves moving plants from the greenhouse to a ventilated cold frame or south facing wall.” Carefully remove your plants from their individual pots and place them in the holes you have already dug. Fill in the spaces around them with soil and press it down gently. 7) Aftercare Water the newly planted campanula specimens thoroughly at the outset, keeping up regular irrigation for the first weeks after planting. Once established, your bellflower shouldn’t require any special care or attention unless you experience a period of prolonged heat and drought. Deadhead during the blooming season to extend it long into the autumn if desired.
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Campanula Are Impressively Tough And Can Be Easily Lifted And Divided - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Divide Campanula 1) Prepare The Ground & New Planting Area 2) Cut Into The Ground 3) Lift The Campanula 4) Divide Clumps 5) Re-Plant The Divisions & Treat Them Campanulas are cottage garden classics, whether the variety shows perky, upright star-shaped flowers or bears demure, drooping bells, which give rise to the plant’s colloquial name – bellflower. Although these plants might not look it, they are also impressively tough and can easily be lifted and divided. Lift and divide campanulas by following these steps: Prep the ground around the plant and also prepare the new planting area. Cut into the ground all around the plant and prise it up from a good depth. Lift up the plant, roots – soil and all. Vertically divide the plant into smaller clumps. Replant the divided clumps, then water and fertilise. This process is explained in more depth below: Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, small hand pick, garden mattock or garden fork, hand spade or gardening trowel, watering can or hosepipe When To Divide April-May When To Divide Campanula Lift and divide campanulas on a late spring morning a few weeks after the last frost of the season, as Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly explains: “The rule of thumb with dividing perennials is to divide summer flowering plants in spring and spring flowering plants in summer. “However, I tend to divide in autumn because of the increased prevalence of hot, dry weather in spring making establishment more problematic. “I find that the warmer but wet autumns are good for establishing clumps of perennials prior to the next growing season.” Before dividing, make sure that the soil is workable. 1) Prepare The Ground & New Planting Area Water the ground around the plant to be lifted with a watering can or hosepipe as you jab at the ground with a small hand pick, garden mattock, or garden fork to prep and loosen it. I’d recommend wearing gardening gloves for this task. In the replanting area, dig holes, cultivate the soil, pre-water the ground, and do whatever other tasks are necessary at the spot you have selected for the dividing campanulas. 2) Cut Into The Ground Drive a spade or fork into the ground all around the plant you want to divide, staying a good 15-20cm away from it. The cut you make into the ground should be about 30cm deep. 3) Lift The Campanula Pushing down and pivoting up the spade or fork as you go around the plant, slowly prise up the clump of ground to bring up the campanula, roots and soil, and lift it all out together. 4) Divide Clumps Use your gloved hands, or the edge of a hand spade or a gardening trowel, to divide the plant vertically from the foliage down to the roots. Try to pull and divide or cut through cleanly but it’s okay if some roots seem to tear along the vertical as you divide. Just make sure to divide into viable clumps that have enough foliage and roots. I’d say about 15-20cm across will be more than enough for a clump. 5) Re-Plant The Divisions & Treat Them Re-plant the divided clumps in the holes you had dug and backfill as necessary. Make sure that the soil level is at or, preferably, a bit below what it originally was on the stems of the plants. Water the divided plants very moderately. Treat them to a conservative quantity of slow-release fertiliser or liquid fertiliser. Dilute as required and keep the fertiliser away from the root crowns, then water again generously.
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You Can Propagate Campanula From Basal Cuttings In Early-To-Mid Spring
IN THIS GUIDE When To Propagate 1) Prepare The Pot 2) Obtain The Cutting 3) Trim The Cutting 4) Plant Into Compost 5) Setting Up 6) Cutting Aftercare Effective methods of propagating campanulas vary by species. Among the methods are growing from seed, greenwood cuttings, basal cuttings, and plant division. In this guide, we explain how to propagate campanula from basal cuttings. The process is outlined here: Prepare the potting materials. Obtain your campanula cutting from an existing plant. Trim the cutting down to size. Plant the cutting in your pre-prepared pot. Set up a clear plastic bag around the cutting to trap humidity. Care for your newly propagated campanula with regular watering and eventually planting out. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, sharp knife, scissors, clear plastic bag When To Propagate The time to attempt this type of propagation is indicated by the plant itself. In early-to-mid spring soon after the last frost, you will notice new green shoots emerging around the plant. It is one of these that will give you a new campanula. 1) Prepare The Pot Prepare a small 9cm terra-cotta (not plastic or ceramic) pot with multi-purpose compost and dampen the compost. Do not use a potting mix or a seed starter. The pots should have drainage holes. 2) Obtain The Cutting Choose a new green shoot emerging beside the original plant that has several leaflets. Brush away just a little soil at the base to expose the greyish-brownish section of stem beneath the green. Using the sterilised, sharp knife, slice through it at the point in between the root and the above soil shoot with a single clean cut. 3) Trim The Cutting Using a pair of table scissors, cut the leaflets laterally into about half their lengths. 4) Plant Into Compost Plant the cutting into the compost, firming up the compost all round. Give it a good watering. 5) Setting Up Cover the cutting with a clear plastic bag that is not too large but still big enough not to stifle or touch the cutting. The bag will trap humidity which the cutting needs early on. Tie the edge of the bag around the rim of the pot and then make some tiny holes in the bag with a pin. Keep the pot in a place where the cutting will get several hours of indirect sunlight. Do not worry if the cutting’s existing leaflets droop and wilt initially; this usually happens even as a cutting is developing roots and putting out fresh foliage. 6) Cutting Aftercare Continue to water the cutting such that the soil stays moist. Remove the plastic bag for an hour or so before watering, and put it back on 10-15 minutes after watering. As you see the cutting develop several fresh leaves, gradually increase its exposure to sunlight and remove the plastic bag. After a few more weeks, pot it on or plant it in open ground. You can maximise your chances of getting new campanulas if you take and root multiple basal cuttings, so long as it does not injure or stress the original plant. “Basal cuttings are relatively easy-to-establish for many perennials, being a section of root and stem and of young growth,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist who has previously worked at The Eden Project. “These usually take and grow on quite quickly in favourable conditions, providing a plantable result within a few months. “I use this type of cutting to bulk up perennial stocks early in the season and follow up with division in late summer if needed.”
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Growing Christmas Cactus: Find The Right Room With Ideal Light And Moisture Levels
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Recommended Varieties Growing From Seed Planting Guidelines Christmas Cactus Care Common Problems References Schlumbergera, or Christmas Cactus as they are far more commonly known, are wonderful houseplants that can brighten up the indoors during the winter months. The Christmas cactus earned its familiar name as it tends to flower between November to January and is easy to care for, making it a popular gift during the festive season. Overview Botanical Name Schlumbergera Common Name(s) Christmas Cactus / Winter Cactus Plant Type Cacti Native Area Brazil Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Exotic and bell-shaped When To Plant Any time When To Prune January – March Christmas Cacti are tender plants and generally one of two species of Schlumbergera, either S. truncata or S. buckleyi. Both are very similar, but with subtle differences between their foliage and flowers. Schlumbergera originates from the wooded areas of Brazil and grows on trees and rocks where they receive their preferred growing conditions of high humidity and partial shade, in contrast to the full sun and dry heat that most desert cacti require.1 Being a tender plant, the Christmas cactus needs to be kept indoors during the colder months here in the United Kingdom. However, they can be moved outside, but only once all risk of frost has safely passed. Recommended Varieties Christmas cacti are widely available here in the UK as potted plants from garden centres and online plant suppliers. Often simply labelled as ‘Christmas Cactus’, they tend not to be sold as specific varieties, but simply differentiated by their flower colours of either red, pink, purple or white. However, newly introduced varieties are now available with multicoloured blooms, such as the S. ‘Tricolour’ which resembles a miniature decorated Christmas tree with its red, pink and white flowers. Growing From Seed Christmas cacti can be grown, although not very easily, from seed. However, growing from seed can be a very rewarding and cost-efficient way of growing plants for free. To grow from seed, the seed can either be purchased online or harvested from a parent plant. To produce your own seed, the parent plant flower, if not a self-fertile variety, needs to be pollinated either by another Christmas cactus plant or from another flower on the plant. To pollinate the flowers, use a small clean brush or cotton bud to collect the pollen from one flower and gently transfer it onto the stigma of another flower and vice versa. If pollination is successful, the base of the flower will swell and produce a small fruit full of seeds, which after several months will come away easily from the plant and the seeds can be removed. To sow the seed, sow thinly using a free-draining seed compost and water from below. Cover with a clear plastic bag for 8-12 weeks to reduce moisture loss and keep at a minimum temperature of 21°C. Once seedlings are of a size suitable to handle, carefully pot them on and continue to grow in a warm and humid environment. Planting Guidelines A Christmas cactus is a great houseplant to have on display, especially when in flower. However, they do like certain conditions to grow well, look their best and flower successfully. Christmas cacti like a humid atmosphere, so a warm kitchen, sitting room or bathroom is ideal. Beware of cold and draughty windowsills though, as nighttime temperatures can drop suddenly and cause shock to the plant. Christmas Cactus Care Watering From April until September, the Christmas cactus goes through a growing season when watering will need to be increased from other times of the year and the soil kept moist. Christmas cacti go through a rest period of 2-3 months after flowering and during this time watering can be reduced, although not to the point of the soil being allowed to completely dry out. As a general tip, it is recommended to wait until the top 2cm of the soil is dry before watering again. Sunlight Exposure Originating from shaded forests, it is important to keep a Christmas cactus away from harsh and direct sunlight, yet not in complete shade either. Near an east-facing window is ideal, as it will only receive the morning sun and be sheltered from the strong midday light. In order to get the best flowers from your plant, it can sometimes be necessary to place it in complete darkness each night for 8 weeks from September, to encourage the flower buds to form. Humidity & Temperature Christmas cacti can be rather fussy when it comes to temperature and humidity. When the plants are actively growing from April to September, they require a constant temperature of ideally 18-21°C, so can be placed outside during the warmer months. However, for the rest of the year, they are generally happy at around 12-15°C. Coming from a more humid climate, Christmas cactus prefer a higher humidity level if possible. This can either be provided by regular misting, placing in a more humid room such as a bathroom or kitchen or by placing on a bed or tray of pebbles which are kept wet. Pruning & Training Christmas cacti plants don’t require regular pruning. However, they can become rather leggy over the years, so pruning can help prevent this and create a bushier habit. The correct time to prune is right after the plant has finished flowering and before it is coming into the growing season. To prune, simply remove a segment or two from each stem, either by twisting or cutting using a clean and sharp pair of secateurs. “Schlumbergera grows well only in one room in my house, the kitchen, where the light levels and moisture seem to suit it,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “However, the space in which it grows is limited, meaning that I have to prune it annually to keep it within bounds. Being able to remove selective segments means that the appearance of the plant is never harmed.” These removed segments can then be used for cuttings, as discussed later. Fertiliser To encourage as many flowers as possible it is recommended to feed the plant with a high-potash feed, such as a tomato fertiliser, every month whilst it is actively growing between April and September. Encouraging More Blooms From September onwards the flower buds can begin to appear. At this point, watering can be slightly reduced and the plant kept somewhere slightly cooler and with total darkness at night until all buds have formed. After this period and once moved back to an environment of 18 – 21°C, try not to move the plant as the buds are rather precocious and can drop before opening. Cuttings If the thought of growing from seed appears to be too much, then thankfully Christmas cacti can easily be reproduced by taking cuttings. In late spring remove a section of the stem which includes 2-3 segments and leave it to dry for 48 hours. Insert the cutting into a free-draining mix of seed compost to a depth of only 1cm (any more and the cutting may rot). Keep the soil barely moist and place it out of direct sunlight at a minimum temperature of 18°C. Once rooted, usually after 4-8 weeks, they can be potted up and grown on. However, it may be a few years until the plants bloom successfully. Potting & Repotting Christmas Cacti tend to grow at an average rate. However, to promote healthy growth, it is advisable to repot them on an annual basis. The best time to repot a Christmas cactus is in April when the growing season is beginning. To repot, choose a container only one size up and use a specific cactus soil mix or a loam-based mix with added grit to increase drainage. Common Problems Stunted Growth Christmas cacti generally grow steadily without too many problems. However, poor growth can be caused by trying to grow them in a pot that is too large as they prefer their roots a little constricted. If in doubt, check the plant’s roots and if no new growth is shown, try repotting the cactus into a pot one size smaller to see if this stimulates more growth. Limp Leaves Limp leaves or stems can be a sign that the plant is receiving too much or too little water. Remove the plant from its pot and if any black roots are displayed; these can be trimmed off and the plant repotted using fresh soil. If the root system appears healthy, it may be possible that the cactus is not receiving enough water. This can be addressed by watering a little more than previously so the soil is slightly moist. Discoloured Leaves If the leaves begin to turn from their fresh green to red or brown then it may be a sign that the plant is experiencing too much direct sunlight and needs to be moved to a more shaded spot. It can also be a sign that the plant is not receiving enough water. References 1. Cactus from the Rainforest: Christmas Cactus. (2021, November 26). The Real Dirt Blog. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=50947
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Is There Actually A Best Time To Water Plants? Here's What The Science Reveals
IN THIS GUIDE Watering By Time Of Day Watering Frequency Tips To Determine When To Water When More Frequent Watering Is Required References Water is one of the most important things in a garden and you may have many questions about how to manage it effectively to water your plants. If you’re wondering when is the best time to water plants – read on. Understanding when and how to water plants is perhaps one of the biggest challenges in gardening. You might also be wondering how long you should wait between waterings or how to tell whether it is time to water a particular plant once more. We have answers to each of those questions below. Watering By Time Of Day Watering in the early morning is generally the best policy. It is best to water as soon as possible after the sun rises as this is when the plants begin to photosynthesise and draw in water and nutrients from the soil through their roots.1 The water travels up through the stems of the plant and into leaves, where it is released in a process known as transpiration from tiny pores, called stomata.2 Over the course of the day, sunlight will also cause evaporation from the soil surface. More water will be lost to evaporation if you water during the warmest and brightest part of the day, so it is best to avoid watering during the late morning and early afternoon if possible. “Exceptions to this would be watering in spring when you are waiting for temperatures to get above 8°C to avoid cold damage,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “This could mean you are watering late morning. Also, winter water will require a different approach due to cold temperatures and you may wish to water during the warmest part of the day.” If you cannot water first thing in the morning, then the next best option is to water in the evening, when cooler conditions mean that less water is lost to evaporation than it would be earlier in the day. However, here in the UK, it is generally better to aim for early morning watering if you can, because when you water early in the morning this gives the foliage and soil surface a chance to dry out during the day which can reduce the chances of issues with pests and fungal diseases. While morning watering is optimal, this does not mean that you cannot get away with watering at other times. During particularly hot and dry periods, certain plants may need to be watered more than once a day – in the morning and in the evening. You may also need to water during the day to increase humidity in an undercover growing area for specific plants. “Never water in full sun, that’s a definite no-go,” says Gerald Stratford, Gardener and Blogger. “You can do a lot of damage to your plants when the sun is out. “If you use a hosepipe and it’s been sunny, run the water into a bucket for about a minute. Water in a hosepipe with the sun on it can get to almost boiling point and you could kill your plants.” As with most general rules in gardening, there are exceptions, but trying to get into the habit of watering first thing is generally a good idea if possible. Watering Frequency One answer to the question of when it is the best time to water plants is simply when they need it, but understanding when plants need to be watered is not always an easy thing. Unfortunately, there is no shortcut or simple answer about how often we need to water our plants to give them sufficient water for their needs. Each plant has different needs depending on its environmental conditions. How frequently you need to water your plants will depend on: The location, its climate and micro-climate conditions. The season, the weather and the temperatures. The species, size and age of the plant in question. Where the plant is growing (in sunshine or shade, in a container or in the ground, etc). The soil or growing medium; its type and characteristics. “If you’re using a big pot, which is a great idea, I would always make sure that the water gets to the top, as the roots of young plants will be at the top of the container,” shares Garden Designer Isabelle Palmer. “Using an irrigating system is a really environmental and economical way to water your plants.” Tips To Determine When To Water Keeping The Soil Moist In general, you should try to think of water in the soil or growing medium as a ‘glass half full’. Ideally, you want to keep the soil moist but avoid waterlogging. Moist yet relatively free-draining conditions are ideal for many of the plants you will grow in your garden, though obviously some like drier or wetter conditions. Plants will usually use water where it is available, but they may not be as strong. Weather Plants typically need more water in hot, summer weather and less water in cool temperatures and over the winter months. Rainfall, sunshine hours, temperatures, wind and humidity all affect how much water will be lost and how much plants will require. Leafy Plants The more leaves a plant has and the larger it is, the more water it is likely to require. Larger, abundantly-leaved plants lose more water, and larger plants need more nutrients (taken up in water through the roots) to flower and set fruit. Roots Plants with wide-ranging roots which can spread out will typically require less additional watering since the roots will be able to range to pick up water in a larger area of soil. Plants growing in restricted spaces or in containers will not be able to spread out their roots in search of water and so will require more watering. The smaller the container, the more quickly it will tend to dry out. Spring-sown annual crops and flowers are likely to need more water than self-sown or autumn-sown plants since they have young and relatively shallow root systems. Young Plants Any newly sown or newly planted areas are more vulnerable to water stress since root systems are not yet fully established. Soil Clay soils will hold more water than light sandy soils, but plants will find it more difficult to extract water from them. Sandy soils need smaller but more frequent waterings than clay ones. Soils with higher levels of organic matter will hold more water for longer. When More Frequent Watering Is Required Some gardeners imagine that plants need watering when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch, but the surface does not always give a good indication of what lies below. Even when surface moisture is low, there may still be plenty of moisture around root tips, where it is required. The touch test can be useful, but you need to insert a finger into the soil, at least to knuckle depth, to see if it is moist. Your plants may also be showing signs that they need more water, such as: Poor foliage growth, or poor flowering or fruit production. Dull and lacklustre stems or leaves which may be darker or paler than usual. Downward tilting or curling leaves. Wilting or browning of the leaves (though note, a lack of water is not the only thing that can cause these symptoms). Plant diseases like powdery mildew taking hold. If growing in pots or containers, lightweight containers which may blow over in the wind can also be a sign that not enough water has been provided. Of course, prevention is always better than cure. Many plants that have been under-watered or which have experienced drought can be brought back into full health, but it is always better to aim to provide sufficient water and prevent symptoms of water shortage from showing up in the first place. References 1. Water Transport and Transpiration. (n.d.). The Science Hive. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.thesciencehive.co.uk/water-transport-and-transpiration-a-level 2. McElrone, A., Choat, B., Gambetta, G., & Brodersen, C. (2013). Water Uptake and Transport in Vascular Plants. The Nature Education Knowledge Project. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.nature.com/scitable/knowledge/library/water-uptake-and-transport-in-vascular-plants-103016037/
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