Growing
Citronella Plant (Pelargonium Citrosum) - Containers Are A Must For This Tender Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Citronella? Planting Ongoing Plant Care Propagation The term ‘citronella’ can be a confusing one, as there are a number of different plants which are referred to by that name. In this article, we discuss the merits and growing habits of Pelargonium cucullatum subsp. cucullatum, a lemon-scented pelargonium also commonly referred to as Pelargonium citrosum and the ‘Citronella plant’. This should not be confused with plants in the Citronella genus, nor with lemongrass, which is sometimes referred to as citronella grass. Overview Botanical Name P. cucullatum subsp. cucullatum Common Name(s) Citronella Plant; Mosquito Plant Plant Type Grass / Shrub Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Pink and purple flowers When To Plant May – August When To Prune March – May (or after flowering) P. cucullatum subsp. cucullatum, also sometimes referred to as the ‘Mosquito Plant’, is an evergreen shrub with a branching habit. It is well-known for its strong citrus scent and may produce attractive pinkish or purplish flowers sometime between spring and autumn. Citronella plants can grow to a maximum height of around 1.5m, with a spread of between 0.5-1m. It can also be kept much smaller and grown in moderately sized containers. Why Grow Citronella? Like some other pelargoniums, this is an edible plant. “Although the correct species name is P. cucullatum ssp. cucullatum, this plant will also be found sold as P. ‘Citronella’ or P. cucullatum,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist with nearly 15 years of experience. “There is also a double-flowered cultivar, P. cucculatum ‘Flore Pleno’. It will often be sold and described as a scented leaved Pelargonium with other species and cultivars.” The scented flowers and leaves can both be eaten in a number of recipes and are used to add a lemony flavour and aroma. While they may not help to keep insects out of your home, despite the rumours, keeping a citronella plant indoors could bring a pleasing scent to your living spaces. In the UK, the citronella plant cannot be grown outdoors during the winter, but can be placed outdoors in a warm, sunny spot during the summer months. Planting Where To Plant Citronella plants require a sunny spot and temperatures above 5-10°C. Over the summer, it can be grown in chalk, loam or sandy soil which is well-drained and has an alkaline or neutral pH in a suitable, sunny spot. However, since it will not be able to survive outside in the UK when temperatures fall, it is typically grown in containers. Remember that a container should be filled with a suitably free-draining growing medium, such as a peat-free multipurpose compost with added John Innes (or an equivalent soil-based potting mix), and added grit. If your citronella plant is being grown in the ground, plants should be lifted in early autumn. Alternatively, cuttings could be taken in order to have new plants placed the following year. These plants might also be grown indoors all year round as houseplants. Remember that these plants like a sunny location, so it is important to make sure when growing indoors, that you place them in as light and bright a spot as possible. Ideally, these plants should get at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Alternatively, they can thrive in a sunny greenhouse that remains reliably frost-free in winter. When growing indoors or under cover, ensuring adequate ventilation is also important, as these plants require good airflow. This might involve opening windows or vents in summer and also might mean avoiding crowding too many potted plants on a windowsill or greenhouse staging. How To Plant Citronella plants can be purchased online or from a number of plant nurseries. They are typically purchased as plug plants, or as pot-grown specimens. They can be planted out in late spring or summer after the last frosts in your area in a suitable spot in your garden, or potted up into suitable containers and placed either outdoors in a suitable location, greenhouse, or on a sunny windowsill. Spring is the best time to plant houseplants, to ensure the best establishment. However, you can pot up citronella plants to use as houseplants throughout the year. Ongoing Plant Care Watering Remember that citronella likes free-draining conditions, so it is important to make sure that you do not overwater, and that water can drain freely from the container or through the garden soil in which it is grown. However, you will need to moderately water your plant when growing indoors or under cover and should not let the growing medium dry out entirely. Remember that your plants will require more water in the summer, though they still won’t need a huge amount. Over the winter months, you should water only very sparingly, and make sure that the potting medium has time to dry each time you water. Outdoors, natural rainfall will usually be sufficient. The plants are fairly drought tolerant and in the UK, excess rainfall rather than too little rainfall is likely to be more of an issue. Feeding Pelargoniums will respond rather well to feeding, so it is a good idea to provide plants in pots with a balanced, organic liquid feed every fortnight through spring. Then, once the flowers begin to appear, you should switch to a potassium-rich feed, such as comfrey tea or another organic feed, and water with this every couple of weeks throughout the rest of the summer. Over autumn and winter, reduce feeding to around once a month. Pruning Flowers can be deadheaded to promote flowering and the plant can also be given a light trim if required to keep their shape and size in check. Plants grown outdoors can also be cut back hard in autumn to make it easier to overwinter them indoors. If you are growing indoors year-round keeping your plants constantly in active growth, it can be a good idea to prune back hard in spring ready for the growth of the new season. Pests & Problems Unfortunately, these plants can be susceptible to a range of common problems, especially when grown indoors or under cover. Aphids, whiteflies, vine weevils, caterpillars, glasshouse leafhoppers and mealybugs can all become an issue. Check over your plants regularly and consider organic solutions for pest management such as organic pesticides like soap sprays when growing indoors. Outdoors, encourage natural predation and achieve pest control by creating a wildlife-friendly garden where the ecosystem is in balance. Fortunately, the citronella plant is not commonly affected by diseases. Propagation Citronella plants can be propagated relatively easily by means of softwood cuttings, taken any time between spring and autumn. Take non-flowering shoots as these will root more easily. Often, cuttings are taken in spring or early summer and potted up by midsummer when they should have developed reasonably strong root systems. Later cuttings should only be potted up into their own individual pots the following spring. As tender plants, Citronellas are not necessarily low-maintenance plants, but for their lemony scent and their flowers, it may be well worthwhile making the effort to grow these plants.
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Grown As Hedging, Lavender Can Fulfil A Range Of Functions Along Garden Edges
IN THIS GUIDE Why Create A Lavender Hedge? Varieties For Hedging Lavender Alternatives Where To Grow A Lavender Hedge Preparing The Site When & How To Plant Ongoing Maintenance References Lavender hedges are truly beautiful, enriching spaces with their beauty and delightful scent. Not everyone will be able to grow and maintain a lavender hedge in their garden, but where the conditions are suitable, lavender hedges can be a great choice. They can be used to line beds or borders, demarcate different garden zones, or along the edges of pathways or patios. “I love to plant lavender hedges lining a path so that it forms a neat edge during the winter, but just enters the path area when in flower,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This creates a fantastic fragrance as people brush against the flowers or drag their hands through the flowers.” Why Create A Lavender Hedge? “Lavenders are quintessentially British and are loved by bees and other pollinators,” says the MD of Fairweather’s Nursery, Patrick Fairweather. “There is nothing like brushing against their fragrant flowers in summer.” Lavender does not just look and smell delightful. This is a flowering herb which also has a wide range of other uses. In garden design, it is always a good idea to make sure that you think about including elements which can fulfil as many different functions as possible. Lavender is certainly a plant which can fulfil a wide range of functions, as it can be useful in the garden itself and also has many uses within your home. Here are just some of the reasons why creating a lavender hedge can be such a wonderful idea: Lavender is an evergreen shrub which will look good all year round. It is a low-growing, neat-looking hedge or bed edging which will not get out of hand. It flowers for a relatively long period over the summer months, bringing visual and olfactory appeal. The flowers also bring plenty of pollinators and other valuable insect life to your garden, and their scent may confuse, distract or potentially repel certain pest species. Lavender also provides wonderful cut flowers for displays inside your home. Varieties For Hedging If you have determined that a lavender hedge is a right choice for your garden, then the next decision you will have to take is which type of lavender to grow. “L. x intermedia Lavenders like ‘Phenomenal’ make dramatic hedges with long flower spikes and large silvery leaves,” says Patrick. You might also consider: English Lavender Lavandula angustifolia cultivars include: ‘Munstead’ ‘Hidcote’ ‘Arctic Snow’ ‘Little Lady’ ‘Nana Alba’ Lavandin Lavandula x intermedia is a hybrid type that is slightly less hardy than the above. It is a cross between L. angustifolia and L. latifolia. French Lavender L. stoechas is notably more tender than both of the above and is not typically the best choice for a lavender hedge in the UK. However, with its conspicuous bunny-ear-like bracts and longer flowering period, it could be an option to consider in particularly warm and sunny southern gardens. Lavender Alternatives One alternative to lavender to consider for hedging in similar conditions, either instead of or in addition to lavender plants, is hyssop. This does not have as delightful a smell as lavender but is a useful herb, which makes good hedging and was commonly used in Tudor knot gardens.1 Germanders are another plant suitable for low hedging or bed edging in a sunny and free-draining spot. Teucrium x lucidrys has small pink flowers and looser Teuchrium fruiticans has lavender-purple flowers; both are also great for bees and pollinators in your garden. If you have heavier soil, or conditions in your garden that are not ideal for a lavender hedge, you can still achieve a similar look using different plants. Nepeta is another flowering herb which can look similar to lavender and also help with bringing beneficial insects to your garden. This is perhaps the best option for those in cooler, more northern areas, who may struggle to achieve a successful lavender hedge in their garden. Where To Grow A Lavender Hedge Before you rush out to buy lavender for a lavender hedge, it is important to understand where such an element can thrive, and where it may not. It is important to make sure that the site where you are considering placing a lavender hedge is suitable for the purpose. Lavender needs a site in full sun, plenty of warmth and, most crucially, friable and free-draining soil. These plants are not suited to areas with heavy clay soil, or to areas where waterlogging can become an issue. Above all, this Mediterranean plant cannot handle having ‘wet feet’. “Whether you’re growing lavender as hedging or in pots or borders, much of the advice we give is the same,” says Julia Snowball, from Yorkshire Lavender. “Plant them in full sun and ensure the soil is well-drained and not too rich.” If the soil and conditions in your garden are suitable for growing lavender then you should think next about the layout of the space, and where lavender hedges might be beneficial. For example, you might place lavender: Close to a seating area where the attractive flowers and their fragrance can be admired. Along a pathway or along border edges, so you can enjoy the look and smell of the lavender as you pass by. As a boundary for a food-producing annual kitchen garden, where pollination services are required. Around the edges of a bed used to grow other culinary herbs. As a boundary around the sunny side of a fruit-tree guild or forest garden area to bring in more beneficial insect life to the system. Preparing The Site Once you have chosen your site and your lavender type, the next job is preparing the planting area. First of all, it is a good idea to amend the soil with plenty of organic matter, to improve fertility and ensure the right balance between moisture retention and drainage. Top dress rather than digging or tilling in this material to keep the soil web intact and healthy. It is also a good idea to mark out the locations where you would like your lavender hedges to run. If you want to ensure straight lines, then this can be achieved with a string and a couple of stakes inserted into the ground. To make curved shapes, you can mark them out with string, or a garden hose laid on the ground, or you can even mark out the lines with sprinkled flour. Ideally, lavender hedges should be planted in ridges or berms raised slightly above the surface of the surrounding pathways, so a no-dig approach can be beneficial. This allows water to drain freely from around the base of the plants, so creating these raised areas with homemade compost or other similar organic materials can be ideal. When & How To Plant “The best time to plant a lavender hedge is September to November, while the soil is still warm enough for the roots to become established before winter,” says Julia. Planting in early autumn gives the lavender plants the opportunity to establish strong, healthy root growth before colder weather arrives. Lavender can also be purchased and planted out earlier over the summer months, but transplantation will usually be less stressful to the plants if carried out once the weather gets a little cooler. “Water the lavenders when you plant them, then once a week for the next three weeks, unless there’s a spell of wet weather,” Julia explains. “After this, the plants should need no further watering.” Lavender plants can be placed in a single row to create thinner hedges, or doubled up and planted in double rows. Ideally, it is best to plant your lavender on a ridge or berm, raised about 15cm from the surrounding soil and 20-25cm wide, or around double that width if you would like to create a double row. As a general rule of thumb, it is best to place plants around 25cm apart. Hedgerows made with larger plants may create an impact, but choosing smaller plants will usually mean that your hedgerow establishes more quickly. If you are adding more than one row of plants for your lavender hedge, the second row should be staggered, so that each plant is just behind the spot between two plants in the first row. You may wish to add gravel, small pebbles or similar around the base of the plants to improve surface drainage and reduce weed competition, or simply for visual appeal. However, this is not strictly necessary. Ongoing Maintenance “Lavender makes a great hedge, but it will only look good in winter if it is pruned immediately after flowering in late summer to help avoid it from going woody,” Patrick says. “It’s especially important to start pruning young plants from an early age. “Always leave 2 pairs of leaves below where you cut and never prune into old wood where there are no leaves below the cut mark.” Lavender hedges should be pruned each year to maintain their shape. When lavender is not pruned, the plants can become straggly and woody after a few years. Typically, lavender is pruned in late summer or early autumn after the flowers fade, though plenty of flowers may already have been harvested from the hedge before this time. Typically, you can cut back harder, especially when dealing with English lavender, and I’d recommend aiming to remove around one-third of the length of each stem. References 1. Larson, R. (2018, October 28). The Early Tudor Garden (circa 1490-1550). Tudors Dynasty. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://tudorsdynasty.com/the-early-tudor-garden-circa-1490-1550/
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Here's 12 Edible Flowers You Can Grow For Culinary Use In A Kitchen Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Pot Marigold 2) French Marigold 3) Rose 4) Garden Nasturtium 5) Dandelion 6) Japanese Honeysuckle 7) Carnation 8) Florist’s Daisy 9) Indian Chrysanthemum 10) Heart’s Ease 11) Garden Pansy 12) Cornflower How To Prepare Edible Flowers References We grow flowering plants for beauty and fruiting ones for edibility, but some flowers are lovely to look at and are also a treat to eat. We have chosen twelve flowers that are not merely edible but are palatable, selecting them for a wide range of tastes and purposes, from mild flavours to use as delicate garnishes to strong ones to use in savoury foods. 1) Pot Marigold BOTANICAL NAME: Calendula officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn No other flower was more associated with culinary use in Mediaeval Europe than ‘Pot Marigold’ or the ‘Poor Man’s Saffron’.1 The flower has a buttery yellow to golden orange colour and is also used as a food colouring and a dye. It is often considered a saffron substitute and the plant’s leaves are also edible. Calendulas are pretty but plain flowers that resemble daisies more than their namesake. It is best used in not-so-strong savoury dishes including soups, pot stews, casseroles, pizza, and quiche.2 Indeed, pot marigolds can be used as an ingredient in cooked foods or be added later to infuse some flavour and add some warm orange colour. 2) French Marigold BOTANICAL NAME: Tagetes patula HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Orange, yellow, red and brown FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn French marigold is another variety of marigold that has edible uses. Native to a swath of land from Mexico to Colombia, it is best for tossing in green salads and veggie salads and lending colour and flavour to various soups. Tagetes patula’s petals have a moderately spicy, moderately pungent flavour, and the dried powder made from them is a ubiquitous ingredient in some cuisines of the Caucasus. 3) Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 (varies with cultivar) FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Varied FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn (varies by cultivar) As much as the rose is considered to be the paragon of floral beauty, it is, in fact, a flower that is not only edible but also full of flavour. No matter which type of rose you grow and enjoy, do remove and discard the lower whitish, slightly tougher, part of the petals. Though the different species of rose all have their own particular fragrance and flavour, one word easily describes them all: sweet. The buds are best for making jams and preserves and the petals are often mixed into honey and sweetmeats.3 The petals can also be decocted into syrups, liqueurs, and, above all, rose water. 4) Garden Nasturtium BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Garden nasturtium may well be the flower most commonly thought of and cultivated as an edible flower in the United Kingdom. In fact, besides the flower, the leaves, stems and even the seed pods are edible.4 Garden nasturtium flowers are probably most commonly used for imparting colour and a bit of zing to hearty salads but they can also be stirred into soups, casseroles, stir-fries and savoury dishes to impart a little pepperiness.5 5) Dandelion BOTANICAL NAME: Taraxacum officinale HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Dandelion leaves have been eaten throughout Europe for centuries and can be used in the kitchen as a leafy green or even as a base, as they impart a somewhat heavyish, earthy, vegetal taste to cooked foods. “I started growing dandelions when we had a few guinea pigs to feed, but I kept growing them because the leaves are great in salads alongside their young flowers,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “There are some cultivated forms available, such as ‘Pissenlit A Coeur plein’ (Full heart dandelion) selected for culinary use.” However, this article is about flowers and while the flowers couldn’t taste more different from the leaves, they too have been used since time untold for a very special purpose – dandelion wine.6 Dandelion and Burdock is a soft drink that is also still going strong after a century or so. Flowers must be picked young, as when they mature they become progressively less sweet and more bitter. 6) Japanese Honeysuckle BOTANICAL NAME: Lonicera japonica HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen / Semi-evergreen FLOWERS: White, purple and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer If you want to grow a plant that is as ornamental as it is edible and you have a sweet tooth, you’ve won the lottery with Japanese Honeysuckle, a hardy evergreen climber. Where this plant is concerned, the vast majority of cultivars are not only edible but also flavourful besides being, of course, decorative. Be aware that most other types of honeysuckle species’ flowers are not edible; I recommend that only Lonicera japonica and its cultivars be treated as plants with edible flowers. You can use Japanese Honeysuckle flowers for all things sweet, and they are great for making syrups, jellies, and jams. They impart a gently and fragrantly sweet, distinctly honey-ish, flavour to anything they are added to, with the source of the flavour mainly being the nectar inside the flowers. 7) Carnation BOTANICAL NAME: Dianthus caryophyllus HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Carnations are not only among the most refined and delicate ornamental flowers, they are edible and flavourful provided you grow an edible species and not a cultivar developed for floriculture. They are gently fragrant, with a sweet, often clove-like, centre, sometimes with notes or an aftertaste of allspice.7 In general the lighter-coloured the flower, the milder and gentler the flavour; the darker the flower, the sharper and more intense the flavour. Only the petals are edible and the whitish base of each petal must be removed as it is bitter. 8) Florist’s Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Chrysanthemum x morifolium HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Brown, pink, yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Autumn The vast majority of chrysanthemum species’ flowers are edible, though they are not necessarily palatable. The first species on this list that produces excellent-tasting flowers is C. x morifolium, better known as the florist’s daisy. For any given chrysanthemum plant, the earlier a flower is picked, the more the flavour is milder and more inclined toward vegetal and sweet. The later it is picked, the more intense the flavour, and the more peppery and bitter taste. Thus, the particular chrysanthemum plant you go to and when you pick its flowers should be governed by how you intend to consume them. A good rule is to pick the flower just when the bud is opening; when picked young the flower is gently flavourful and less bitter. 9) Indian Chrysanthemum BOTANICAL NAME: Chrysanthemum indicum HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn The Indian chrysanthemum also has palatable flowers. To use chrysanthemums in cooking, it’s best to look at Far Eastern cuisine and recipes.8 However, they are a brilliant addition to any and many cooked vegetable dishes that include bok-choy, cabbage, kale, spinach, cress, radish, cauliflower, and french-beans. Most stir-fries or veggie stews will be improved with an addition of chrysanthemum petals. 10) Heart’s Ease BOTANICAL NAME: Viola tricolour HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Yellow, purple and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn We know that beautiful pansies come in a staggering range of hues and tones. This variation may not quite be matched by the tastes and flavours of these gently palatable little flowers, but there is still a mild difference between varieties. Viola tricolour has more intense flavours than the garden pansy that also features on this list. They have a vegetal and grassy gentle taste though they are most often considered to have a wintergreen-like aroma and taste with a pleasing tartness. Pansy petals, chopped or whole, can be dropped and tossed in green salads, fruit salads and vegetable salads. However, they are just as good for garnishing fruit juices, fruit shakes, and even cocktails and mixed drinks. 11) Garden Pansy BOTANICAL NAME: Viola × wittrockiana HARDINESS RATING: H5/H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): Varies Garden pansies almost always have gentle and mild aromas and flavours of freshly vegetal types hovering between grassy and floral, sometimes leaving a sweet aftertaste. Only the petals may be eaten and not the whole flower, which also applies to the V. tricolour. Pansy petals are ideal for decorating pastries, cakes, desserts and sorbets with. 12) Cornflower BOTANICAL NAME: Centaurea cyanus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer Cornflower is not exactly a taste sensation, but it slots into our last spot because it is an all-rounder among edible flowers. Taste-wise, cornflower is mild with a light flavour that seems to vary from sweetish to vegetal, to clove-ish to slightly spicy. Cornflower petals can be used in cooked foodstuffs but that is not the best use for this flower in view of its size, flavour, and colour. Its smallish size and the typical intense blue hue makes it a highly attractive garnish. Though cornflowers come in other colours like white and pink, it is the intense blue flower that is most desirable. Petals can simply be dropped over sweet foodstuffs, particularly all kinds of desserts from custards and puddings to parfaits and ice cream. How To Prepare Edible Flowers Avoid eating any flowers bought from a florist or anywhere else except those from a farmer’s market that are expressly designated for eating (besides those grown specifically for eating in your own garden). Do not use any chemical pesticides; use only biological controls and natural, organic treatments such as those meant for herbs and vegetables. In all cases, for edible flowers try to use own-root plants and not grafted ones. Pick flowers on the day you intend to use them unless you plan to dry them for making decoctions, tea or powders. At most, keep them for a day in the fridge. Keep in mind that not all flowers can be eaten whole – only the petals of many flowers are edible (and tasty) while much of the rest of the plant must be discarded. Flowers should be washed before being used as a culinary ingredient or consumed. Wash them in running water or dip them in a bowl of water. References 1. Demas, A. (2022, September 1). Celebrating Edible Flowers. The Food Studies Institute. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://foodstudies.org/celebrating-edible-flowers/ 2. Rao, T. (2010, July 19). Marigolds: They’re What’s for Dinner. The Atlantic. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2010/07/marigolds-theyre-whats-for-dinner/59940/ 3. Hegde, A. S., Gupta, S., Sharma, S., Srivatsan, V., & Kumari, P. (2022). Edible rose flowers: A doorway to gastronomic and nutraceutical research. Food Research International, 162, 111977. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.2022.111977 4. Nasturtium Pods. (n.d.). Specialty Produce. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://specialtyproduce.com/produce/Nasturtium_Pods_7023.php 5. Lambert, R. (2020, June 29). How to make capers from nasturtium seeds. Wild Walks Southwest. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.wildwalks-southwest.co.uk/make-capers-from-nasturtium-seeds/ 6. Wright, J. (2012, August 14). How to make dandelion wine. The Guardian. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2012/apr/04/how-to-make-dandelion-wine 7. Carnation Edible Flowers. (n.d.). Nurtured in Norfolk. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://nurturedinnorfolk.co.uk/product/carnation-edible-flowers/ 8. Roe, U. (n.d.). Cooking with edible flowers – a history. Love Food. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.lovefood.com/news/58796/cooking-with-edible-flowers–a-history
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Grow Deciduous Japanese Meadowsweet For Interest Throughout Much Of The Year
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Spiraea japonica? Varieties Where To Grow Planting Ongoing Plant Care Propagation Companion Planting References A great choice for mixed borders in many gardens, Spiraea japonicas are attractive deciduous shrubs which provide interest throughout much of the year. These shrubs are hardy plants which can thrive in many gardens. In the UK and elsewhere, S. japonica has been cultivated widely as an ornamental garden plant. Numerous named cultivars have been produced which are in widespread use in beds and borders, or in mixed hedgerows. Overview Botanical Name Spiraea japonica Common Name(s) Japanese spiraea Plant Type Shrub Native Area Japan, China and Korea Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Bowl-shaped, white and pink When To Plant All year round When To Prune February-April Spiraea japonica, also known as Japanese meadowsweet or Japanese Spiraea, is in the Rosaceae plant family, one of a number of deciduous shrubs within the Spiraea genus.1 It is native to Japan, China and Korea and has naturalised elsewhere.2 Why Grow Spiraea japonica? S. japonica is a popular garden shrub in large part due to its attractive little five-petalled, white or pink flowers born in abundance on the plants in short racemes, panicles or corymbs in summer. Some varieties are also prized for their colour-changing foliage, which can open one hue, mature to green in summer, then develop attractive autumnal shades later in the year. Another reason why this is a popular garden shrub is that it is very easy to grow is that it thrives in many situations in the UK and can cope with all but the most extreme of conditions. S. japonica can fit well into cottage gardens and formal garden designs, urban gardens, coastal gardens, and a range of beds and borders in settings across the UK. Varieties ‘Albiflora’ Some named cultivars UK gardens should consider include: ‘Albiflora’ ‘Anthony Waterer’ ‘Candlelight’ ‘Dart’s Red’ ‘Firelight’ ‘Golden Princess’ ‘Goldflame’ ‘Gold Mound’ ‘Island’ ‘Magic Carpet’ ‘Nana’ ‘Shirobana’ ‘Goldflame’ Where To Grow S. japonica thrives in full sun or partial or dappled shade. It is H6 hardy in the UK and can be placed in both sheltered and exposed positions. In terms of soil, it will do best in chalky, loamy or sandy soil, with moist but well-drained conditions. The plant can tolerate a wide range of soil pH, including more alkaline conditions. Where the soil is moist but does not become boggy or waterlogged, S. japonica will work very well in mixed borders. There are larger cultivars which work well for the back of a border, and also somewhat smaller cultivars which can work well in the middle of a mixed border, and dwarf S. japonica which can work well further forwards or even, in some instances, in containers. Some S. japonica can also work well as part of a hedgerow scheme. Planting S. japonicas are hardy shrubs which are best planted in autumn, or during milder spells of weather over the winter months or early spring. However, you can plant a S. japonica at any time of the year as long as you make sure that the plants are well-watered during establishment. As with many other shrubs, make sure you plant at the same depth as it was in the pot it came in, or in its previous location. Gently firm in the soil around the base of the plant, and water it in well. Mulch around the base of your new shrub with a good quality organic compost or wood chip mulch. Ongoing Plant Care Once established, as mentioned above, S. japonica is an excellent low-maintenance, easy-to-care-for plant. Watering Water the plant regularly during dry spells as it becomes established. Once established, however, these shrubs should not need additional watering, except when rainfall is in particularly short supply and there is a long period of drought. Feeding S. japonica will not generally require regular feeding. However, it is a good idea to apply a new mulch of organic matter after pruning to boost new growth. Pests & Problems These shrubs are generally relatively untroubled by common pests and diseases. Pruning S. japonica blooms in summer on growth produced in the same year. For these types of summer flowering Spiraea, it is a good idea to cut back all growth in March to around 30cm from the ground. This encourages plenty of young growth which is more vivid in hue than older shoots and so is a good idea, in particular, for S. japonica which is grown not only for its flowers but also for its colourful foliage. It is important to at least cut back to within 1-2 buds of the older woody structure of the shrub, and to remove any dead, damaged or weak material. “There are a few pruning approaches you can take with these Spiraeas,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “One method I advocate is cutting back to two buds of the current year’s growth unless you need to reduce the size, as allowing this gentle creep in size seems to aid the longevity of the plant.” If you have an older, mature S. japonica which has not been regularly pruned in this way, renovation pruning can improve performance and visual appeal significantly. Take out a proportion of the older stems to open up the centre of the plant and encourage fresh new growth. Avoid pruning these shrubs over the winter months, as this can lead to new shoots becoming damaged by frosts. Propagation Once you have a S. japonica shrub in your garden, it can quite easily be propagated by taking cuttings to obtain new plants. The best option is to take semi-ripe cuttings of non-flowering shoots from the plant in around July or August. The cuttings should be around 15cm long. Place the cuttings, with rooting hormone to improve the chances of success, in a light, sandy potting mix and place in a cold frame or another suitable spot before planting out your new S. japonica the following year. Combine S. japonica with other relatively low-maintenance shrubs and perennials in a mixed border and you can create a winning, low-effort, high-impact garden design. Remember, this is a non-native plant so consider combining it with native species which will be complementary, while providing more benefits for the local wildlife. Companion Planting S. japonica can work well in planting schemes with a range of other plants. One option to consider is growing S. japonica within a Japanese-inspired garden. You might grow it with other Japanese species including acers, conifers, and flowering cherry trees, for example. Some other examples of plants which may work well in a mixed border with Spiraea include (but certainly are not limited to): Other spiraea (E.g. S. douglasii, S. prunifolia) Loropetalum Roses Ribes sanguineum Ceanothus Fothergilla Salvias Achillea millefolium Ornamental grasses Heuchera References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998l, July 20). Spirea. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/spirea 2. Spiraea japonica. (n.d.). Weed of the Week. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.invasive.org/weedcd/pdfs/wow/japanese-spiraea.pdf
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Divide Mature Astilbe Plants To Prevent Them Becoming Susceptible To Powdery Mildew
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Water The Existing Plant 2) Dig Around To Free The Roots 3) Lift The Plant 4) Shake Off Excess Soil 5) Divide Into Sections 6) Replant As Soon As Possible Astilbe is a great low-maintenance flowering perennial for gardens and generally requires little ongoing care. However, one important job is dividing a mature plant. Dividing mature Astilbes is important in order to prevent overcrowding, which can encourage the fungal disease powdery mildew. It is also the best and easiest way to obtain new Astilbe plants for your garden to expand your plant collection. I would recommend that you divide mature Astilbe every 3-4 years in spring. To do so, you should: Water the existing plant well. Dig around the base of the plant carefully to free the roots. Gently lift the plant from the soil or growing medium. Shake off excess soil from the roots. Divide the Astilbes into several sections by cutting down with a spade through the roots. Replant or repot the divisions. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mature Astilbe, spade When To Divide March/April 1) Water The Existing Plant Once you have identified a mature plant for division, your goal is to make it into several different plants while minimising stress to the plant, and avoiding transplantation shock. Undertaking this job in spring is best, as this period offers the best environmental conditions for the process to go smoothly. You can also ensure that the process goes smoothly by undertaking the job a day or two after it has rained, or by watering well a day or so before you do the job. In moist soil, the plants will be healthy, and roots will be easier to free from the growing medium. 2) Dig Around To Free The Roots Take a garden spade and carefully dig around the plant to free the roots. Make sure that you dig into the soil at a sufficient distance, so you do not damage or cut the roots and can lift the whole clump intact from the soil. 3) Lift The Plant Now, once you have freed the roots from the surrounding soil, gently lift the plant up out of the soil or out of the pot in which it was previously growing in a container garden. 4) Shake Off Excess Soil Shake the plant gently to get off big clumps of soil. This should make it a little easier to see the roots. Check over the roots carefully to make sure that the plant is healthy and that the roots show no signs of damage or disease. 5) Divide Into Sections Next, if the clump is not easily divided into sections by hand, place the plant on the ground and cut it down from above with a sharp spade to separate the mature plant into sections. While the image below doesn’t specifically show an Astilbe plant, hopefully it illustrates how a spade can be used to split plants effectively: Usually, mature Astilbe can be divided into between 4-6 sections, though you can observe the plant to see where it would most naturally divide, and create a number of divisions that feels right to you. The key thing to remember is that each division should have a healthy section of roots, as well as a portion of above-ground growth. 6) Replant As Soon As Possible Next, you should take your bare root Astilbe divisions and replant them in the ground or in suitable containers as soon as possible. The key thing to ensure is that the roots do not dry out. Remember that Astilbe needs to be placed in partial shade. It can grow in deeper shade but will not flower as well. Whichever site is chosen, make sure that the soil is rich and fertile, with plenty of organic matter and sufficient moisture. Try planting Astilbe with Hostas, Heucheras, ferns, Trilliums, Primulas and Ligularias, and other plants which like similar growing conditions.
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Learn Why Pruning Astilbe In December Or January Is The Best Policy
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune 1) Prune Stems & Foliage To The Base 2) Use Or Compost The Dead Stems Astilbe is a reliable and low-maintenance perennial that will thrive in a partially shaded and moist spot in your garden. Gardeners will find that this plant requires very little care and that it is a great addition to a wildlife-friendly garden. One simple and easy annual job when growing Astilbes is pruning your plants. To prune Astilbe: Cut back faded stems after flowering, or wait until December or January. I typically recommend that you opt for the latter option. Cut off inflorescences (flowering stems) and foliage right to the base. Use the dead stems in flower arrangements indoors, or add all the materials to your compost heap. Read on for a more in-depth explanation of this process. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Prune December – January When To Prune Deadheading Astilbes is not required and is not usually desirable. There are really only two reasons why you may choose to do so, and many more reasons to leave the plants to go to seed and leave the dead flowering stems in place. You may choose to remove the flowering stems as soon as the flowering is done: For aesthetic reasons To prevent the plants from self-seeding Most people actually like the look of the brown spent flowering plumes, which can add depth and interest, and architectural form to the autumn and winter garden. However, you may choose to remove these at the end of the flowering season if they do not fit in with your garden scheme or you do not personally find them appealing. Occasionally, Astilbes may self-seed if they are happy where they are grown. However, this is not all that common and even when these plants do self-seed, they are not going to take over. So, self-seeding is usually viewed as beneficial where it does occur. However, if for some reason you do wish to prevent this, you can prune back your Astilbes as soon as the flowering is done. That said, there are plenty more reasons not to deadhead, and to leave the Astilbe unpruned until December or January. Pruning in December or January is the best policy because: Most people agree that the dead inflorescences still look good – adding structure and interest to an autumn and early winter garden. Leaving the flower heads to go to seed offers the chance of self-seeding, where this may be viewed as beneficial. It will take a few years for seeds to grow into flowering plants, but this could be a free way to get new plants for your garden. The seed heads and the foliage also provide food and habitat for a range of wildlife in your garden, so leaving pruning until a little later is the best choice in a wildlife-friendly garden. Pruning before spring arrives is a good idea because it reduces the chances of pest or disease problems relating to rotting foliage and overcrowding, and makes way for new growth which will emerge in the early spring. 1) Prune Stems & Foliage To The Base The pruning itself really could not be any simpler. All you have to do is take a clean and sharp pair of secateurs or gardening shears and cut off all the vegetation of the plant right down to ground level. 2) Use Or Compost The Dead Stems It is best not to leave the plant material that you have cut lying around, since Astilbes can sometimes be more prone to pests or diseases, such as powdery mildew, if you leave the debris in place. Instead, consider whether you would like to use the dead stems in floral arrangements inside your home. These can look rather attractive with dried flower arrangements over the winter months. If you do not wish to make use of the plant material in this way, remember that you should return the nutrients it contains to your garden. Add all the pruned material from your Astilbes to your compost heap with other organic materials, where it will rot down and make a valuable compost which can be added as a mulch around Astilbes and all your other perennial plants in the spring.
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Established Astilbe Should Easily Survive Winter, But You May Wish To Cut Back And Mulch
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Deadhead In Summer Or Autumn 2) Cut Back In Winter 3) Mulching Astilbes are great for a moist, partially shaded spot in your garden, and when grown in conditions which they enjoy, they can flower reliably over a number of years. These are fully hardy herbaceous plants, which will die back each winter, before bursting into a new life in the spring. Astilbes are also excellent low-maintenance perennials, which will not require a lot of care or attention – especially once established. In the UK, Astilbe will sail through the winter with ease before coming back into active growth in spring. But before winter arrives, there are a couple of options that you might consider when it comes to caring for your Astilbes: Cut back the dead flower heads in summer/autumn to keep things neat over winter. Wait until December or January before cutting back hard before new growth emerges. Mulch around the plants in the autumn with organic matter. Some gardeners will choose to care for Astilbes by cutting back the brown, dead flowering heads before winter, but, as discussed below, we recommend that you wait until later before cutting back. 1) Deadhead In Summer Or Autumn The main reason that gardeners might choose to remove spent flowering plumes or inflorescences early is to prevent the plant from self-seeding. In areas where optimal conditions are available, these plants can occasionally self-seed. This can be interesting, though plants may not resemble their parent plant. If you wish to prevent the plants from going to seed, then you can cut off the spent flowers before the seeds form. However, self-seeding is rarely prolific, where it occurs at all, so these plants are not in any way likely to take over your garden. Therefore, deadheading is not required for these plants. Gardeners may also simply choose to deadhead at the end of the year to keep things looking neat and tidy in the winter garden. This is to some extent a matter of personal preference, but there are several reasons to consider holding off before you cut back Astilbe plants. 2) Cut Back In Winter If you leave Astilbes alone once the flowering has finished, one benefit is that over autumn and early winter, the deadheads can actually look rather attractive. They can still have an impressive upright form and, though they have faded to brown, can add architectural drama to a perennial border or another suitable spot in your garden. As autumn wears on and winter begins, these dead stalks and the foliage also, crucially, provide valuable habitat and food sources for winter wildlife. So, if you want to have a wildlife-friendly garden, you should leave these in place before you cut all the stems and foliage off in late winter to make way for new growth in the spring. 3) Mulching “Astilbes prefer rich, moist soils, so a mulch of organic matter around the plant in the late autumn after rain will conserve moisture in the soil and improve its structure,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “Allowing your astilbe plants to access nutrients in the soil will help to support strong growth in the spring.”
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Astilbe Can Be Sown From Seed But It's Not A Reliable Method - Here's Why
IN THIS GUIDE Why It’s An Unreliable Method Astilbe Is Best Sown Indoors 1) Collect Seeds 2) Store Seeds Until Spring 3) Soak Seeds Before Sowing 4) Sow The Seeds 5) Pot On Then Plant Out Astilbes are beautiful flowering perennials, perfect for a moist, partially shaded spot. If you already have a mature plant in your garden, you might be wondering how best to propagate it to gain more plants. While dividing Astilbes or growing from bare roots are far easier and more reliable propagation methods, you can also grow Astilbes from seed. Why It’s An Unreliable Method Gardeners tend to choose other methods of propagation because: Varietals will often not come true from seed, so, while the results can be interesting, the plants may not be very similar to the parent plant. Germination rates can be low, so seed sowing is not a very reliable way to ensure new plants. Plants sown as seeds will take several years before they flower. Astilbe varietals grown from collected seed also tend to be rather short-lived. Occasionally, Astilbes which are very happy in their spot in your garden may self-seed. If they do so, you can replant these volunteer seedlings into their growing positions in either September or in around April, or you can leave them where they have naturally chosen to grow. If you do decide that you would like to collect seeds to sow: Collect seeds from your existing Astilbe plant. Store seeds until spring. Soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Sow the seeds in moist seed-starting compost in flats, trays or small pots indoors in early spring. Plant seedlings out into their final growing positions in September or October. Read on for a more detailed explanation of each of these steps. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, seed starting pots or trays, potting mix When To Sow March-April When To Plant Out September-October Astilbe Is Best Sown Indoors Astilbe seeds are best sown indoors in early spring and then planted out into your garden in September or October. 1) Collect Seeds The first step is to collect the small seeds from your Astilbe. After the flowers have bloomed, the seeds will form along the feathery flowering heads, which are technically called inflorescences. If you do not deadhead, you can collect the stems before the seeds scatter. Lay out the stems to dry somewhere dry and once the pods seem ready to split open, place them into a paper bag. Give the bag a good shake and let the seeds fall into the paper bag. Then, collect the seeds and place them into a paper envelope or another suitable container to keep them safe and dry until spring. 2) Store Seeds Until Spring It is best to store the seeds until spring before planting because older seeds which have been stored carefully over the winter stand a somewhat better chance of germinating successfully. Keep the seeds in your fridge or in another cool location. 3) Soak Seeds Before Sowing In early spring, take your seeds out of storage and place them in tepid water to soak for 24 hours. This is another strategy which can improve germination rates. 4) Sow The Seeds Prepare a suitable seed-starting flat, tray or small pot, filled with a peat-free potting mix which is light and aerated, yet suitable moisture retentive. Scatter the seeds into your chosen seed starting container or containers. “After this step, lightly press them into the compost but do not cover them as they need light to germinate,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “If the seeds are viable and the compost is maintained at around 15°C and kept moist, germination should occur within around 20-25 days.” 5) Pot On Then Plant Out As soon as your seedlings are large enough to handle, prick out the seedlings and pot on into 9cm pots to grow on. Transplant them into their final growing positions in your garden in September or October. Astilbes need a sunny or ideally partially shaded position, with soil which remains moist but does not become waterlogged. Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months, mulch each spring with plenty of organic matter, and in 3 years or so, there is a chance that your Astilbe grown from seed will reach a size where they will begin to flower.
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Growing Astilbe In Pots? Stick To Smaller Types Says This Horticulturist
IN THIS GUIDE Can Astilbe Be Grown In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing Potting Medium Potting Up Astilbe Container Growing Care Astilbes are vibrant, hardy perennials which love moist conditions and can thrive in sun or partial shade. They can be a great choice for many different gardens, but if you only have space for containers, then you may be wondering how to grow Astilbe in pots. Can Astilbe Be Grown In Pots? The good news is that Astilbes can certainly be suited to container growing, though when choosing which cultivar to grow, it is important to look for smaller varieties. Some Astilbes will grow rather tall to 120cm in height and can have a spread of up to 1m or more, but there is a range of smaller Astilbe which are more suited to container growing. Most dwarf Astilbes are hybrid types, often with A. simplicifolia as one of their parents, sometimes a descendent of A. chinensis. Dwarf types will be under 60cm in height, with a similar spread. Some cultivars well suited to container growing include: ‘Bonn’ ‘Bronce Elegans’ ‘Europa’ ‘Hennie Graafland’ ‘Maggie Daley’ ‘Mainz’ ‘Rheinland’ ‘Serenade’ ‘Sprite’ ‘Willie Buchanan’ Choosing A Container One of the key things to think about, of course, when you wish to grow Astilbes in pots is which sort of container you should choose, and what size it ought to be. When choosing the type of container, and thinking about what it is made from, remember that Astilbe needs moist conditions, so try to choose a container which does not lose water too quickly. “Terracotta pots are porous and loose moisture relatively quickly, so other materials such as recycled plastic, ceramic or fibreglass should be considered,” says Roy Nicol, Master Horticulturist and Professional Gardener. “Fibreclay made from resin, mesh and clay is another good option, as it is sustainable (using waste outputs from other industries), light and strong.” While they like moist conditions, they do not like excessive waterlogging, so make sure the container you choose has suitable drainage holes at the base. Typically, single Astilbes are grown in pots around 40cm in diameter, with a depth of at least 30cm. Choosing Potting Medium Since Astilbe like moist conditions, and a rich environment, make sure that you fill your container with peat-free multi-purpose compost, or a homemade equivalent, and add some homemade compost or other organic matter for an extra nutrient boost. Mulch around the plant in the top of the container with more compost, or another organic mulch. This will help to retain moisture and also provide slow-release nutrients over time. Potting Up Astilbe Astilbe typically need to be potted up into newly filled containers every 3-4 years. Choose a slightly larger container each time or, when this is no longer practicable, consider dividing your mature plant and repotting each division in its own individual pot. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? If you have a larger container, you can plant more than one Astilbe in it. When deciding how many Astilbes you can plant per pot, it may be helpful to keep this spacing guide in mind as a rough rule of thumb: Seedlings can be sown and thinned to their eventual spacing when they are around 5-7.5cm tall. Small Astilbes can be planted around 15-20cm apart. Larger Astilbes can be planted around 20-30cm apart. Remember, Astilbe can also be planted in larger containers with other plants which like similar growing conditions. For example, you might plant Astilbe with Primulas, Hostas and Heucheras. Just take care to avoid overcrowding. Choosing larger containers can be a good idea when growing Astilbe and other shade-tolerant, moisture-loving plants. Remember, the larger the container, the more moisture it will retain and the less frequently you are likely to need to water. Container Growing Care Place the pots in a partially shaded spot. However, you should not place your container in deep shade, or the plants will not flower at their best. The most important thing when growing Astilbe in containers is to make sure that the plants are well watered, and that the growing medium stays moist at all times. You should check container-grown plants daily to make sure they do not dry out. Use rainwater whenever possible, and try to water deeply rather than little and often. There is no need to feed Astilbe, just make sure that you grow them in a suitably nutrient-rich potting mix and replenish the organic mulch around the plants each year in spring to provide these plants with the nutrients they need. Leave faded flowers in place for an attractive autumn and winter display. Then, cut back all old growth down to the ground level in the winter before new growth appears in early spring.
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