Growing
11 Dahlias In Shades Of Pink Chosen By Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. ‘Kilburn Rose’ 2) D. ‘Magenta Star’ (Sin) 3) D. ‘Topmix Pink’ (Sin/DwB) 4) D. Happy Single Wink 5) D. ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ 6) D. ‘Vancouver’ (Misc) 7) D. ‘Franz Kafka’ (Pom) 8) D. ‘Vassio Meggos’ 9) D. ‘Bluetiful’ 10) D. ‘Café au Lait’ 11) D. ‘Take Off’ (Anem) With a lengthy blooming season and a wide range of architectural forms to choose from, dahlias are an ideal summer flower. Indeed, the more you pare them back, the more they blossom, meaning your hard work receives an almost instant reward. It’s no surprise that pink is among the most popular colour for garden displays, either. Capable of mixing well with pretty much any other colour scheme, they’re a breath of fresh air and instantly liven up any environment. “My favourite pink dahlia is ‘Bishop of Leicester’, as the subtle tone changes of pink in the petals look like they have been painted using a fine watercolour brush,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “This is a plant of competing colours with watercolour pink petals centred with vibrant yellow stamens and dramatic dark foliage. “It is an excellent option for when you are trying to knit together a border containing contrasting colours. It has an average height of 70cm and spreads to 50cm, making it a useful plant for the front or middle of a border.” Below, I have handpicked my own choice of a number of pink dahlia varieties for your perusal. All of these varieties mentioned below are H3 hardy, growing in full sun in a sheltered location, and produce flowers in the summer and autumn months. 1) D. ‘Kilburn Rose’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Kilburn Rose’ FLOWERS: Pink and orange SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Kilburn Rose’ is a waterlily-style dahlia of medium height, growing up to 120cm at full maturity. Its double petals are a startling shade of peach, while the softer pinks and bright yellows of its centre make it appear as though the flower heads are positively glowing. Set against the greenery of its foliage, the blossoms of ‘Kilburn Rose’ are a sight for sore eyes indeed and look best when arranged in clusters of five or six plants next to one another. 2) D. ‘Magenta Star’ (Sin) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Magenta Star’ FLOWERS: Pink SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Ever so slightly taller than ‘Kilburn Rose’, ‘Magenta Star’ can reach up to 130cm in height and boasts single flower heads of around 10cm in diameter. The dramatic magenta pink of their petals gives way to a deep rusty red disc at their centre, fringed by golden anthers. Like most dahlias, it has a longevity to its blossoms which extends right up until the first frosts, but the unusual brown foliage and stems mean it still carries intrigue even when not in bloom. 3) D. ‘Topmix Pink’ (Sin/DwB) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Topmix Pink’ FLOWERS: Pink and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The ‘Topmix’ range of dahlias are floriferous bushy plants with single flowers and low-growing habits. ‘Pink’ does what it says on the tin by displaying bright pink petals around a yellow honeycomb centre, creating a pleasing contrast against the dark green foliage beneath. ‘Topmix Pink’ is among the smallest offerings on this list, with its total height and spread not exceeding 30cm and its flower-heads measuring a mere 6cm in diameter. As such, it’s perfect for container cultivation or for filling in little nooks and crannies in a mixed border. 4) D. Happy Single Wink COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia FLOWERS: Pink, red and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Happy Single Wink’ is another dwarf dahlia on the smaller side, but one that’s no less cheerful for its diminutive dimensions – as the name attests! It is characterised by single bright pink petals darkening to a deep crimson at their centre, while yellow anthers add a further splash of vibrancy. The plant can reach up to 60cm in height and the flower heads 10cm across, making them ideal for adding late summer or autumn colour to your borders and beds. 5) D. ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘gallery rembrandt’ FLOWERS: Pink SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another dwarf variety, ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ shares similar dimensions with ‘Happy Single Wink’, though its flowers are comprised of fully double petals rather than single ones. Bright pink fades to a lighter shade of lilac at the edges of the petals, with a yellow hue imbuing the centre of the bloom. They’re particularly prolific flowerers from midsummer right until the temperatures plummet and the frost sets in, so they’re great for keeping your garden active and attractive when other plants are dying back. 6) D. ‘Vancouver’ (Misc) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Vancouver’ FLOWERS: Pink and white SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread One of the more ostentatious options on this list, ‘Vancouver’ is a fully double dinner plate variety of dahlia with blooms that can reach a whopping 25cm in diameter! Dinner plate varieties are a favourite of dahlia specialist Elaine Patullo, the owner of Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery, who loves them for their size and ‘wow-factor’. At up to 1m in height, they’re great for placing among tall grasses or in a mixed herbaceous border to draw the eye. What’s more, the colouring on ‘Vancouver’ dahlias is no less showy. While pink and cream vie for supremacy in the flecked petals, there are also suggestions of blue, violet and burgundy on display here, too. 7) D. ‘Franz Kafka’ (Pom) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Franz Kafka’ FLOWERS: Pink and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Although ‘Franz Kafka’ is a dahlia of reasonable stature (80cm at full maturity), its flower heads are among the smallest of any cultivar at just 5cm across. Tightly compacted ruffles of bright pink petals make for beautiful pompons that bob atop their stems in the breeze. This disparity between their height and flower size makes them an intriguing choice for a mixed herbaceous border. At the same time, the delicate daintiness of the blossoms means they’re just as popular as part of a multi-coloured bouquet, too. 8) D. ‘Vassio Meggos’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Vassio Meggos’ FLOWERS: Pink and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This clump-forming dahlia is an offshoot of the Spartacus variety and has a range of attributes in its favour. Firstly, there’s its size; at up to 140cm in height, it’s one of the tallest dahlias available, while a single plant can produce up to 25 flowering heads at the same time. As for the blossoms themselves, they’re no shrinking violets at up to 25cm in diameter. Lavender-pink in colour, the double petals fold back towards the stem in a highly pleasing manner, marking them out as a showstopper in any setting. 9) D. ‘Bluetiful’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Bluetiful’ FLOWERS: Pink and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread As the name suggests, ‘Bluetiful’ carries a blueish tinge to the lavender-pink of its petals. The flowers are decorative in shape and feature a slightly ruffled structure to their petal placement, making them almost reminiscent of the surrealist paintings of Salvador Dalí or someone similar. It is these captivating attributes which make ‘Bluetiful’ such a charming addition to any outdoor display. At 90cm in height and with flowers approximately 13cm across, it’s a versatile option which can complement similarly low-key colour schemes. 10) D. ‘Café au Lait’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘café au lait’ FLOWERS: Pink, cream and orange SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another decorative dahlia, ‘Café au Lait’ takes its name from the fact that its flowers begin life with the creamy white colour of milk, tinged with the tan of coffee. However, as it matures, you’ll notice an irresistible apricot hue spread across the flowerhead, giving it a softer and dreamier aspect. The size of the blossoms can reach up to 20cm and this, coupled with the sumptuous colouring of its fully double petals, makes it a perennial favourite with wedding planners. 11) D. ‘Take Off’ (Anem) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Take Off’ FLOWERS: Pink and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Take Off’ is of the anemone flowering dahlia variety, which has a tendency to display muted tones in its colouring. This stunning specimen combines mauve lower petals with creamy-pink upper ones, flecked with edgings of yellow. All in all, it makes for a rather jaw-dropping addition to your borders. With flowers 8cm across and 90cm in height on the plant itself, it’s a striking but space-efficient option for your display.
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11 Pure White Dahlia Types Featuring Florist Georgie Newbery
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. ‘My Love’ 2) D. ‘Honka White’ 3) D. ‘Trelyn Kiwi’ 4) D. ‘Small World’ (Pom) 5) D. ‘Lady Liberty’ 6) D. ‘Eveline’ 7) D. ‘Silver Years’ 8) D. ‘Eternal Snow’ 9) D. ‘White Onesta’ 10) D. ‘Karma Maarten Zwaan’ 11) D. ‘Fleurel’ An import from the Americas, dahlias have taken to the British climate with aplomb – and Britons have taken to them with equal enthusiasm. Available in a variety of forms, they’re as versatile as they are visually stunning. “One plant I can’t live without is the dahlia, as I love a hard worker with masses of chutzpah!” jokes Georgie Newbery, a Florist. Indeed, they’re often prized for the vibrancy of their colourings, but you might find that the brilliance of white is actually a superior option for your display – not least because it goes well with absolutely everything, including other white flowers. While many people love the exoticism of cactus varieties or the architectural intrigue of a spherical pompom flowerhead, it’s a good idea to include some single-flowering specimens in your mix to allow pollinators easy access to the goods. We asked Master Horticulturist Dan Ori for his favourite white flowering dahlia: “I recommend Dahlia ‘Bishop of Dover’. The white blooms of Dover will get you singing like Vera Lynn, and I love the way the pure white petals look like they are soaking up a lilac-pink hint from the sky on a summer’s evening. “Reaching a height of 90-100cm, this Dahlia towers like undulating white cliffs through a border.” With that in mind, here’s a selection of my favourite white dahlias to grow in your garden. It’s important to note that all of the varieties mentioned in this list bloom in summer and autumn, are H3 hardy and need to be grown in a sheltered location in full sun. A variety of styles and shapes are on offer here, so there’s sure to be something to please everyone. 1) D. ‘My Love’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘My Love’ FLOWERS: White SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A cactus variety, ‘My Love’ is beloved for the purity of its colour and the strange spear-like shape of its petals. Each one unfurls from the central flowerhead like a limb stretching in the morning, while the hint of yellow at its core is a beautiful companion to the white everywhere else. Growing up to 80cm in height and 50cm in spread, it has blossoms that can measure as much as 15cm across. As such, it’s a lovely choice for a border, patio pot or even indoors on a sunny windowsill. 2) D. ‘Honka White’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Honka White’ FLOWERS: White and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A single flowering variety of dahlia, ‘Honka White’ is no less impressive for the sparsity of its petals. Indeed, their pointed nature, along with the spacing in between, makes them reminiscent of a windmill stretching its blades towards the sky. With bright yellow stamen casting a honeyed hue on the white canvas beneath and lush green foliage acting as the ideal backdrop, it’s guaranteed to catch the eye and start tongues wagging wherever it’s planted. 3) D. ‘Trelyn Kiwi’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Trelyn Kiwi’ FLOWERS: White and pink SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another cactus dahlia, ‘Trelyn Kiwi’ has petals which are chunkier and more curved than the straight, tendril-like lances of ‘My Love’. It also carries a slightly pinkish tinge to its white, while the yellow reflections of the buried core complete a very pleasing collage of colours. Growing up to 1m in height, it’s ideal for adding some structural variety to a mixed herbaceous border, but the unusual shape of its flowerhead makes it an excellent choice for a cut flower, too. 4) D. ‘Small World’ (Pom) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Small World’ FLOWERS: White SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The pompom blossoms of ‘Small World’ float above the dark green leaves beneath, while the white flower-heads tinged with yellow provides a very pleasing contrast to the foliage. The whole plant achieves a maximum height of just 1m, but it’s the delicate blooms which are particularly petite – and all the more lovely for it. From the cheeriness of their movement in the breeze to the upbeat children’s song that their name is inspired by, it’s impossible not to have a positive disposition when planting, admiring or tending to these little lovelies. 5) D. ‘Lady Liberty’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Lady Liberty’ FLOWERS: White SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread From the pristine clarity of her snow-white petals to the demure manner in which they fold back towards the stem, ‘Lady Liberty’ is every inch a female of regal bearing. Set against the plush greenery of her foliage, her flower-heads look magnificent throughout summer and well into autumn. Reaching 120cm in height, she’s a medium-sized dahlia that will fit just as well into a mixed display as she does in pots or vases, whether container-grown or as a cut flower. 6) D. ‘Eveline’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Eveline’ FLOWERS: White and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Speaking of elegant ladies, ‘Eveline’ could give ‘Lady Liberty’ a run for her money in the head-turning stakes. This decorative dahlia boasts soft white petals unfurling in a spherical shape, while their outer edges have just been brushed with the slightest hint of a lilac hue. It makes for an overall aesthetic that’s utterly mesmerising, and the prolific nature of its flowering period means there are plenty of blossoms to go around. 7) D. ‘Silver Years’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Silver Years’ FLOWERS: White, pink and cream SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This is a fully double-flowering decorative dahlia with soft contours and a scintillating colour combination. The white petals are imbued with a subtle flush of pink, which intensifies in warmer weather and becomes even more noticeable at their extremities. Capable of growing up to 1.5m in height, it’s one of the taller dahlias available, while the flower heads can command a diameter of 10cm in total. As such, it’s invariably a darling among horticulturalists, wherever it’s placed. 8) D. ‘Eternal Snow’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Eternal Snow’ FLOWERS: White SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Eternal Snow’ is, as the name suggests, characterised by the purest of whites, though there is a noticeably greenish-yellow tint at the centre of the flowerhead. 12cm across, they bob serenely atop sturdy stems up to 1m in height, making for a truly relaxing spectacle. The blossoms bear resemblance to waterlilies, making them an excellent choice for planting alongside ponds, fountains and other water features. Cared for appropriately, they’ll produce stunning blooms until the first frosts. 9) D. ‘White Onesta’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘White Onesta’ FLOWERS: White and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another waterlily-style dahlia, ‘White Onesta’ is most remarkable for the large dimensions of its flowering heads. They most commonly boast a diameter of around 15cm, but on certain occasions can even reach an incredible 25cm! As well as being oversized, the blossoms also last remarkably long even after being cut, which is why they’re such a popular option for placing in vases around the home. 10) D. ‘Karma Maarten Zwaan’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Karma Maarten Zwaan’ FLOWERS: White and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Although not quite as prodigious as ‘White Onesta’, ‘Karma Maarten Zwaan’ is another waterlily-like dahlia with large blossoms of up to 15cm in diameter. While it might be slightly smaller in size, it does boast more depth than its dinner-plate counterpart. That’s due to the layer upon layer of petals that are gently ruffled underneath its soft yellow centre, providing additional intrigue for the casual observer. Another which provides impressive longevity after cutting. 11) D. ‘Fleurel’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Fleurel’ FLOWERS: White and cream SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Like the two aforementioned dahlias, ‘Fleurel’ is another variety prized for its colossal flower-heads. With a maximum diameter of 20cm, the cultivar produces beautifully arranged petals in the purest white, with a suggestion of yellow at the centre casting a golden glow onto its blooms. With this in mind, it’s no wonder that ‘Fleurel’ is among the most popular choices in wedding bouquets. Nonetheless, it’s equally as popular with bees and butterflies as it is with brides, so it’s a superb way to encourage biodiversity in your garden, too.
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Remember To Pinch Out Your Dahlias: It Will Help To Promote Better Growth
IN THIS GUIDE Why Pinch Out? When To Pinch Out How To Pinch Dahlias Dahlias are a large group of stunning perennial plants widely grown here in the United Kingdom, as they can flower from mid-summer right up until the first frosts at the onset of winter. “Dahlias are easy to grow and have wow factor, and, flowering from July to the first frosts, they are the most giving of flowering plants,” shares Florist Georgie Newbery. Available in a dazzling array of shapes, sizes and colours from cool whites to vibrant reds, there is a dahlia to suit every garden. Why Pinch Out? “Pinching out is useful, especially for promoting more flower heads,” Elaine Patullo from Dachshund Dahlias puts it simply. Dahlias are easy to care for and will often grow well enough if left to their own devices. However, pinching out (removing the central growth tip when young) will encourage the plant to develop into a more sturdy and bushy plant and produce more flowers. Pinching out dahlias is a straight-forward process and is applicable to all the different types of dahlias available to grow: Identify when to pinch out – typically this will be when your plant has grown to 30-40cm in height. Pinch out the top growth – the central stem of the plant. Pinching out should be undertaken early in the summer before the plant has matured and begun flowering. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or snips When To Deadhead May, June, July When To Pinch Out Dahlias should be pinched out in the early stages of their growth when the plant has grown to about 30-40cm high. “If you pinch your dahlia out once the plant has 3 sets of leaves, this will help the plant to bush up and send more lower leaves up,” explains Jack Gott, owner of JRG Dahlias. Here in the UK, this tends to be around May to July, depending on whether the plants have been started off undercover in a greenhouse or planted directly outside. “If you are growing from a tuber and have several shoots appearing this is not strictly necessary unless you want a shorter and bushier plant,” says June Nash, secretary of The National Dahlia Society. How To Pinch Dahlias Once the dahlia plant has reached the desired size and stage, it is time to pinch out the top growth. The material to remove or pinch out is the topmost leaf and stem growth of the central and tallest stem on the plant. This is known in horticultural terminology as the ‘Terminal Bud’. In the image below, this would be the central stem which is showing signs of a new bud – This new growth only needs to be removed down to the plant’s top pair of leaves, which can sometimes mean only removing a very small amount of the plant. “If you are growing from a small plant or rooted cutting it is advisable to pinch out the centre bud when about 4 pairs of leaves are showing,” says June. “This will encourage the side buds in each leaf axle to grow, making a bushier plant.” To remove, the new growth can simply be pinched off using a thumb and forefinger or a sharp and clean pair of small snips or scissors, being careful not to damage any growth on either side. “Down on the south coast of England, I usually use the week of the Chelsea Flower Show to remind me to pick out my Dahlias (Late May),” shares Horticulturist Dan Ori. Don’t worry about pinching out this new growth. It may delay flowering for a short time but it won’t stop the plant from growing, in fact, it will do the opposite and can encourage more stems to grow and more flowers to bloom. David Hall, from dahlia nursery Halls of Heddon, says that you should be rewarded in around 1-2 months for pinching out your dahlias, with larger varieties taking longer to get to their best.
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20 Favourite Paeonia Types From Peony Society Members Around The World
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties 1) P. officinalis 2) P. emodi 3) P. ludlowii 4) P. mascula 5) P. tenuifolia 6) P. lactiflora ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ 7) P. lactiflora ‘Alexander Fleming’ 8) P. lactiflora ‘Duchesse de Nemours’ 9) P. lactiflora ‘Candy Stripe’ 10) P. lactiflora ‘Pink Hawaiian Coral’ 11) P. lactiflora ‘Shirley Temple’ 12) P. ‘Buckeye Belle’ 13) P. lactiflora ‘Karl Rosenfield’ 14) P. ‘Eden’s Perfume’ 15) P. lactiflora ‘Sorbet’ 16) P. × suffruticosa ‘Xue Ta’ 17) P. × suffruticosa ‘Hai Huang’ 18) P. × suffruticosa ‘Dao Jin’ 19) P. × suffruticosa ‘Wu Jin Yao Hui’ 20) P. × suffruticosa ‘Chu Wu’ References Peonies are renowned for their large, bowl-shaped flowers which frequently range from 15-20cm across. Peonies are members of the Paeonia genus which comprises many species, some of which even serve as ornamentals. However, it is the many hybridised cultivars that are prized for the garden. Members of the Paeonia genus are deciduous perennials, being either herbaceous plants or woody shrubs that are in effect small trees. Though most Peony species have a very brief flowering season, most cultivars bloom for several weeks while some start blooming in late spring and continue all through summer. Though most varieties’ flowers are cup-shaped, some are saucer-shaped, flowers are divided into six types, including single forms, double forms, and unusual types such as Anemone and Japanese – which display crowns or petal-like embellishments in the centre. Expert-Chosen Varieties Before we share our preferred peonies, we asked our specialists to share some of their favourites. “We have over 60 varieties, so every year I have a different favourite,” says Kate Blacker, the owner of the specialist nursery Little Budds Peony Farm. ‘Red Charm’ “‘Red Charm’ has to be a favourite as it is the first to flower, but I also love the yellow flowering ‘Garden Treasure’ for its’ foliage and form. “I also love ‘Jan Van Leeuwen’ for the copious amounts of flowers it produces and ‘Coral Sunset’ for the way it changes colour, from coral to yellow to white, as it opens and goes over.” ‘Coral Sunset’ “I’m personally very fond of species peonies,” says Koen Hurtekant, the owner and creator of The Peony Society. “There are around 30-40 different (sub)species and several of them offer interesting characteristics.” Koen’s favourites include: P. cambessedesii (for its bluey-green leaflets and dark red underside) P. caucasica (for its early-flowering season) P. peregrina (for its late-flowering season) “Contrary to most garden peonies, they will do best in some shade, as in nature, most of them grow at high altitudes in the mountains or in forest edges.” P. peregrina “Most of the species also cannot take too much water, especially during summer, so they need extremely good drainage and will probably prefer soil which is on the drier side.” “We mostly grow lutea hybrid woody peonies because the suffruticose peonies bloom while we are still in rain season and that ruins the enjoyment,” says Carol, the owner of Adelman Peony Gardens and president of the Pacific Northwest Peony Society. ‘Ruffled Sunset’ Other woody varieties Carol loves include: ‘Ruffled Sunset’ ‘Waucedah Princess’ ‘Rosalind Elsie Franklin’ ‘Leda’ For herbaceous peonies, Carol enjoys the varieties: ‘Old Faithful’ ‘Coral Sunset’ ‘Pastelegance’ ‘Dresden Pink’ ‘Raspberry Charm’ ‘Angel Cheeks’ For intersectional types, she recommends: ‘Bartzella’ ‘New Millennium’ ‘First Arrival’ ‘Sonoma Rosy Future’ ‘Sonoma Halo’ “The list could go on and on!” says Carol. ‘Bartzella’ “For many enthusiasts of particular plants, it might be the cultivars that get you interested, but the ones that capture your heart as you learn more are the species,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Perhaps because of the stories of where plants come from and their evolution as well as their often adventurous routes to introduction in the UK.” So are you now in the market for a peony variety or two? Here are my favourite peonies that you could grow in your garden today. 1) P. officinalis COMMON NAME(S): Common Peony HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink / Purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing to about 70cm, the Common Peony exhibits bright green compound leaves with elliptic sections. In early summer it produces cup-shaped single-form flowers that are 12cm wide. Mildly scented, they vary in hue from deep pink through scarlet to purplish red, centred with conspicuous yellow stamens. 2) P. emodi COMMON NAME(S): Himalayan Peony HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: White SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Featuring lovely feathery compound leaves of a brilliant green hue, the Himalayan Peony grows to 1-1.5m. “P. emodi has sideways-facing flowers and finely dissected leaflets, making it one of my favourites,” says Koen. It blooms in late spring and summer, producing scented flowers which are salver-shaped and about 12cm across. They are pure white and display a prominent disk of golden stamens. This plant has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 3) P. ludlowii COMMON NAME(S): Ludlow’s Tree Peony HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Yellow SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread A giant among peonies, rising to 2.5-3m, Ludlow’s Tree is a very popular species. It has attractive compound leaves of a light, bright green and a well-branched form. In late spring it bears 12cm wide bowl-shaped flowers of a frilly, delicate appearance; their petals and prominent anthers in a matching tone of deep sulphur yellow. 4) P. mascula COMMON NAME(S): Wild Peony HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Red and yellow SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A herbaceous plant growing to 0.5-1m and displaying bright green compound leaves, Wild Peony, a European native, has a very brief flowering season over end-spring and early summer, but still produces seriously stunning blooms. These single-form flowers are of a brilliant rose-red to purplish-red hue, centred with a bright yellow disk of stamens. 5) P. tenuifolia COMMON NAME(S): Fernleaf Peony HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Red and yellow SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another herbaceous perennial, Fernleaf grows up to 50-60cm in height. Its light green compound leaves are very fine and narrow and form feathery mounds. “Some species’ peonies offer up interesting characteristics,” says Koen. “I like P. tenuifolia because it has very fine-textured leaflets.” The short flowering season from the end of spring to early summer brings forth single-form, bowl-shaped flowers of a riveting red hue with the conspicuous golden-yellow stamens serving as an accent. 6) P. lactiflora ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread An heirloom variety with a height of up to 1m, ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ has retained its popularity for over a century and may just be the UK’s favourite peony.1 It has a deserved reputation for being floriferous and bears flowers in June and July. They are fully double, about 18cm across and of a classic sweetheart-pink hue. This variety has also won the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 7) P. lactiflora ‘Alexander Fleming’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ‘Doctor Alexander Fleming’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Doubling up on the heirloom varieties, ‘Alexander Fleming’ also dates from Edwardian times and it is popular in many European countries.2 It rises up to 1m in height. Floriferous and wonderfully fragrant, this variety blooms in May and June, producing 15cm double flowers of candy-pink to rose-pink hues. 8) P. lactiflora ‘Duchesse de Nemours’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ‘Duchesse de Nemours’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: White SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread 150 years old and still supremely popular, perhaps it is ‘Duchesse de Nemours’ that is the UK’s most celebrated Peony. “‘Duchesse de Nemours’ is one of my favourite peony varieties because of her fragrance,” says Kate Blacker. It grows to around 90cm in height and flowers in June and July. The large sweetly-fragrant bowl-shaped double flowers are pure white and display cream or pinkish flushes near the centre. It’s also won the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 9) P. lactiflora ‘Candy Stripe’ COMMON NAME(S): Common Peony HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink and white SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing to about 90cm tall and producing marbled flowers, ‘Candy Stripe’ is rapidly gaining popularity, and for good reasons too. It has a naturally neat habit and exhibits well-shaped, bright green leaves. As for the flowers that it produces over May and June, they are marvellously fragrant and unique, being marbled and striped in white and pink tones, from baby pink to fuchsia. 10) P. lactiflora ‘Pink Hawaiian Coral’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ‘Pink Hawaiian Coral’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink / Orange SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing up to around 1m in height and with its foliage forming a neat mound, ‘Pink Hawaiian Coral’ produces its 13cm flowers in May and June. These scented, double-form flowers are bowl-shaped and their colour varies from a bright coral pink to a gentle creamy pink, often showing a yellow centre. 11) P. lactiflora ‘Shirley Temple’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ”Shirley Temple’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing to 80-90cm and forming a mound of deep green foliage, ‘Shirley Temple’ flowers for about two months between late spring and mid summer. The fragrant, fully double flowers are huge at 18cm or more, yet they have a delicate, gauzy appearance which is accented by their hue: pink-white to pale pink turning white as the flower matures. It has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 12) P. ‘Buckeye Belle’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ‘Buckeye Belle’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Red SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread From America with love and one of Kate Blacker’s favourites, ‘Buckeye Belle’ is taking the UK by storm. While its elliptic leaves are a brilliant saturated shade of green, the bowl-shaped semi-double flowers are an even more saturated shade of crimson-maroon and display conspicuous golden-yellow stamens. The 15cm flowers appear in mid-spring and early summer. It reaches a height of roughly 90cm. 13) P. lactiflora ‘Karl Rosenfield’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ‘Karl Rosenfield’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Red SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Rising to 80cm with a similar spread and much in demand as a cut flower, ‘Karl Rosenfield’ displays elliptic leaves of a crisp green hue with its flowers in perfectly complementary colours varying from intense lipstick red to magenta red. Blooming from the end of spring to early summer, these double-form flowers are 16-17cm across and display wonderfully ruffled petals. 14) P. ‘Eden’s Perfume’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ‘Eden’s Perfume’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A very aptly-named cultivar, ‘Eden’s Perfume’ blooms are famed for exuding a sweet, feminine, damask-rose-like fragrance. The plant grows to about 90cm, displays brilliant green foliage, and produces flowers in May and June. The flowers are huge at 17-18cm across and are of a delicate pink hue with random petals displaying yellowish-cream flushes. 15) P. lactiflora ‘Sorbet’ COMMON NAME(S): Peony ‘Sorbet’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink and white SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Reaching up to 1m in height with a similar spread, ‘Sorbet’ has elliptic leaves of a bright, intense green shade. The fully double-form bowl-shaped flowers are 15-16cm wide and their frilly, ruffled petals vary in tone from pink-flushed to soft pink, sometimes showing tinges and flushes of cream. The delightfully fragrant blooms appear from May to June. 16) P. × suffruticosa ‘Xue Ta’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Peony ‘Xue Ta’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and white SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread ‘Xue Ta’ produces flowers 22-25cm wide which have a wispy and ethereal quality. These flowers are white, with many displaying faint pink tinges at the centre, and its petals are heavily frilled and ruffled. 17) P. × suffruticosa ‘Hai Huang’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Peony ‘Hai Huang’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Yellow SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread This cultivar bears flowers that can be more than 20cm wide and are gently scented. They are double-formed with frilly, ruffled petals and display a light, bright tone of sunny yellow with an orange centre. 18) P. × suffruticosa ‘Dao Jin’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Peony ‘Dao Jin’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and white SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread ‘Dao Jin’ produces massive flowers that reach up to 25cm. They are of semi-double form and are gently fragrant. The ruffled petals are sectioned and striped in various tones of pink and white. 19) P. × suffruticosa ‘Wu Jin Yao Hui’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Peony ‘Wu Jin Yao Hui’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Red and purple SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread This variety displays very large ruffled flowers that are reminiscent of roses. They are of double-form, exude a mild fragrance and are of an intense crimson-maroon hue that makes for a striking contrast with the foliage. 20) P. × suffruticosa ‘Chu Wu’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Peony ‘Chu Wu’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Black / purple SIZE: 1-2m in height, 1-2m spread Possibly the most dramatic of all peonies, the massive 25cm flowers are of double-form. The ruffled petals have a delicate velvety appearance but are of a rivetingly intense chocolate-maroon hue veering to near black. References 1. Manley, J. (2016, April 30). The Casual Gardener: Pondering peony pleasure. The Irish News. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.irishnews.com/lifestyle/2016/04/30/news/the-casual-gardener-pondering-peony-pleasure-501770/ 2. Paeonia: Dr. Alexander Fleming. (2019, June 3). My Peony Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.mypeonysociety.com/peonies/dr-alexander-fleming/#:~:text=Dr%20Alexander%20Fleming%20was%20bred,a%20Nobel%20Prize%20for%20it.
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Azaleas Make Excellent Container Plants - Just Be Sure To Get These Factors Right
IN THIS GUIDE Are Azaleas Suitable For Pots? Choosing A Container Container Compost Potting Up Azalea How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Potted Azalea Care Azalea is a subsection within the Rhododendron genus which provides plenty of really attractive evergreen or deciduous shrubs for your garden. Though Azaleas were once categorised as a different species, they are now placed alongside other Rhododendrons within the same genus. They can be an excellent choice if you are looking for a flowering shrub for your garden. However, growing Azaleas requires acidic soil, so if you have alkaline soil, you might wonder whether you can grow azaleas in pots. You might also wonder if you can grow Azaleas in pots if you don’t have a big garden. Are Azaleas Suitable For Pots? The good news is that many different types of Azalea make excellent container plants. Some hardier types with more compact growth habits make ideal plants for an outdoor container garden and some tender types can even be grown indoors as houseplants. When deciding which Azalea to grow in a container, it is important to consider the growth habit of the particular cultivar you are considering, and the size to which it will eventually be expected to grow. Smaller options are generally best for container cultivation. Choosing A Container When choosing a container for Azaleas, make sure that the pot is large enough to accommodate the rootball with just a little space around each side. Remember, a container that is too small will limit growth. However, Azaleas like reasonably free-draining conditions, so it is important to choose a container that is not too large, as this could contribute to water-logging. You should also make sure that the container you choose has adequate drainage holes at the base. Container Compost Azaleas typically require an acidic growing medium and they thrive in a pH between 5 and 6. Create or purchase a peat-free, ericaceous compost if you would like to provide the optimal conditions for a potted Azalea. Potting Up Azalea When potting up an Azalea, make sure that the rootball sits close to the surface of the soil as these are shallow-rooted plants. Ensure that the plant is at the same depth in its new container that it was in its previous pot. Place some of your ericaceous growing medium in the base of the new container. Gently place the plant into the pot, making sure that the root ball has a little space all around. Fill in more of your growing medium around the sides, firming it in place gently, making sure that there are no air pockets. Water it in well, allowing excess water to drain away. Finally, it is best to mulch the top of the pot or other container with an ericaceous mulch, to maintain high humus and fertility, and replenish nutrients in the container over time. A mulch will also help maintain pH levels and reduce moisture loss, helping to keep the medium moist. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Typically, you will plant a single Azalea in one pot since most of these shrubs will take up the space on their own. However, you might also consider choosing a larger container and planting a small and compact Azalea alongside other acid-loving plants, such as heathers. Potted Azalea Care How precisely you need to care for Azaleas in containers throughout the year will depend on which cultivars you are growing, how hardy or tender they are – and where exactly they are grown. Where To Grow Outdoor potted Azaleas should be positioned in a sheltered location, in full sun or partial or dappled shade. Indoors, tender Azaleas should be placed in a room with good ventilation, with dappled or indirect light. Ideally, they should be kept in a room where temperatures remain between around 16-18°C. Watering The growing medium in the pots for Azaleas, indoors or out, should be kept moist but not allowed to become drenched or waterlogged. Try to use rainwater to water your Azaleas where possible. You may be able to use tap water, but if your tap water is alkaline, this will not be ideal for these acid-loving shrubs. “A rule of thumb that I use is, if the kettle where you are growing has limescale then you have hard water (alkaline), so avoid watering your ericaceous plants with tap water,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. Feeding Azaleas growing in containers outside will benefit from the addition or replenishment of an acidic mulch of conifer bark chippings or leaf mould each spring. It can also be a good idea to feed weekly through spring and summer with a weekly organic, ericaceous fertiliser. Houseplant Azaleas will also benefit from an ericaceous mulch on the top of the container each spring, or from completely repotting in the spring with a new, fertile growing medium if the growth seems poor or you are dealing with an Azalea forced to flower in winter. A weak liquid feed of black tea can be good for Azaleas, and can help increase the acidity of the compost. It should also help to encourage repeat flowering the following year. Feed weekly while the plant is in active growth. Deadheading & Pruning Azaleas will not usually require much pruning at all, but it is a good idea to consider deadheading, as this can often encourage these shrubs to bloom for longer, and can also help to keep the plant looking good. Deciduous Azaleas can also respond well to a hard cutting back on occasion. Winter Make sure that you know the hardiness rating of the Azalea you are growing. Some outdoor Azaleas will be fine outside year round at least in some areas, but others will need to be moved to a more sheltered, warmer spot over the coldest part of the year. This makes it ideal for growing these varieties in containers. When growing Azaleas indoors, to encourage them to flower once more the following year, it is best to move them to a cooler location in Autumn. Many Azaleas are not too difficult to grow in pots and can make great container plants, but make sure that you provide the right growing conditions for these shrubs to thrive.
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How To Provide Fertile Conditions For Azaleas Grown In Any Manner
IN THIS GUIDE Feeding Azalea In The Ground Feeding Potted Azalea Azaleas, whether growing in the ground or in containers, do need fertile growing conditions. These are plants which will do best and flower most abundantly when provided with all the nutrients they need. Fortunately, feeding Azaleas, whichever type you are growing and wherever you are growing them, is relatively straightforward. How and when precisely you will feed Azaleas depends on whether you are growing your Azaleas in the ground or in containers. We have outlined everything you need to know about feeding Azaleas below. Feeding Azalea In The Ground When growing Azaleas in the ground, the most important factor in growing these shrubs successfully is creating a suitable growing environment. The soil should be fertile, and high in organic matter. It should be moist yet free draining, and should ideally have a pH of between 5 and 6. When these growing conditions are provided, Azaleas growing in the ground should not require much additional feeding. The key is to make sure that you maintain healthy soil around these shrubs by mulching around each plant with an organic mulch. For Azaleas, you should choose a mulch made up of acidic materials, like leaf mould, pine needles, or conifer wood chips. “Many arborists collect wood chips as a by-product of their work and often they are only too happy to let you have some if you ask,” shares Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “If you see a conifer being chipped, that’s a good opportunity to re-use it locally. “Large pine trees shed large amounts of needles, so if you have a friend or neighbour with one or more in their garden, grab some if they’ll oblige.” This mulch should help to replenish nutrients within the soil and maintain the acidic soil conditions required for most Azaleas to thrive. This mulch should be placed upon planting, and should be replenished each year in the spring. Aside from mulching and maintaining healthy soil around your Azaleas, further feeding will not usually be required. However, you might also consider adding an organic fertiliser, such as blood fish and bone, upon planting or if the growth seems poor in the spring. Feeding Potted Azalea Azaleas growing in pots should be grown in a good quality peat-free ericaceous compost. To maintain fertility, the top 5cm of this growing medium should ideally be changed each year in spring, and I find it’s also best to replace the growing medium entirely every 2-3 years. It can also be a good idea to leave a little space at the top of containers so that you can add a layer of ericaceous mulch, as you do when planting in the ground. Mulching around the top of containers will help to replenish nutrients, keep the mix acidic, and conserve moisture in a pot. In addition, however, Azaleas growing in containers will also do best if provided with a weekly liquid organic feed through the spring and summer months. For example, it can be a good idea to feed Azaleas with black tea, to maintain acidity and keep them growing strong.
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To Help Azaleas Through Winter, Work Out Your Garden Micro-Climate And Plant Hardiness
IN THIS GUIDE Winter Care For Outdoor Azaleas Winter Care For Indoor Azaleas Azaleas are attractive shrubs, which come in tender or more hardy varieties. Some are suited to growing indoors year-round, whilst others can work outside year-round in your garden. In order to understand how to care for Azaleas in winter, you need to be clear about the hardiness of the particular variety that you are growing. Some outdoors grown Azaleas will be fine outdoors in winter in at least some areas, but others will need to be moved to a more sheltered, warmer spot over the coldest part of the year depending on their hardiness rating. Move tender Azaleas growing indoors, including those forced to flower for Christmas, to a cooler location with temperatures between 6-10°C. You can then move them back when the temperature is warmer in spring. For more details, make sure to read on. Winter Care For Outdoor Azaleas In order to understand whether or not you can keep an Azalea outside in your garden all year round, you need to understand hardiness ratings, as well as the conditions where you live. Many Azaleas typically grown outside in the ground in UK gardens are H4-H6 hardy. If an Azalea has a rating of H4, that means it can cope with outdoors conditions in an average winter in most of the UK, except for inland valleys, high altitude locations, and the far north. In harsh winters, they may experience some damage in colder gardens. Note that if growing in pots or containers, these plants are more vulnerable to harsh winter conditions. If growing one of these slightly less hardy options, make sure that it is growing in a reasonably sheltered location, out of drying, cold winds and not in a frost pocket. “I like to work out the micro-climate of a garden,” says Colin Skelly, Mater Horticulturist and Garden Consultant. “There can be a few degrees difference between the coldest and warmest parts of the garden in both winter and summer. “For potted Azaleas in winter, work out the most sheltered part of the garden.” “Typically this might be under the canopy of trees and shrubs or in the lee of a garden building or house – providing shelter from both wind and frost.” If necessary, move plants in a container to a more sheltered and protected spot, or undercover. Even the hardiest types are more vulnerable if growing in containers. Winter Care For Indoor Azaleas Indoors Azaleas such as Rhododendron simsii are not suitable for outdoor cultivation. They are often bought as pot plants and are forced to flower early, which is usually in winter. They can be grown indoors in a cool, bright location, or in a greenhouse or conservatory. If you wish to keep such a plant to flower again the following year, place them in a cooler location in autumn or after flowering. Then move them back to a bright location, around 16-18°C, in the spring. With some luck they should then flower again the following year, but if forced before purchase, will typically flower later than they did the previous year.
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7 Problems Azalea Growers Might Encounter, Including Leaf Drop And Bud Blast
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Non-Flowering Azaleas 2) Yellow Leaves 3) Leaf Droop 4) Leaf Drop 5) Azalea Leaf Scorch 6) Pests 7) Diseases Azaleas, when grown in the right locations, can typically be relatively easy to grow. However, as with most plants, a number of problems can occur. Some common problems for Azaleas include: Non-flowering or flower buds not opening Yellowing or browning of leaves Leaf droop Leaf drop Leaf scorch Pests like vine weevil, leafhopper, scale insects Diseases such as bud blast, Azalea gall and honey fungus We explain each of these problems in more detail below: 1) Non-Flowering Azaleas Flower buds may fail to form or fail to open properly on outdoor-grown Azaleas if conditions are too dry in late summer. Regular mulching and watering can help reduce the likelihood of this problem. Indoors, buds may fail to open on tender Azaleas due to dry atmospheric conditions. Buds may need to be moistened by misting when they first show colour in order to open successfully. 2) Yellow Leaves Yellowing in Azalea leaves can often be a sign of waterlogging or of nutrient deficiencies. It can also be caused, however, by overly alkaline conditions or over-feeding, so make sure your Azaleas are growing in suitable soil. 3) Leaf Droop Leaves may droop in winter when exposed to overly cold conditions when growing Azaleas outdoors, especially those that may be borderline hardy in your area. However, they should usually recover when temperatures warm back up again. 4) Leaf Drop Leaf drop can often be a sign of water shortage, especially on indoor-grown plants or those in containers. There may also be some browning around the edges of the upper leaves. However, leaf drop can also occur after prolonged water-logging since root damage will prevent water from effectively being replenished to the leaves. However, remember that some leaf drop is natural and some older foliage is often shed in spring and summer. 5) Azalea Leaf Scorch Brown leaves can be leaf scorch, caused by a range of plant stressors, such as windy, cold or wet weather. Typically, however, plants will be able to recover if and when conditions improve. 6) Pests In container-grown plants, vine weevil can be a problem. Leafhopper and scale insects are another couple of pests that can sometimes plague these plants. Always deal with these problems organically to keep yourself and the environment and surrounding wildlife safe. Encouraging natural predation is the most important step when growing Azaleas outdoors. Scale If you observe any scale infestation, prepare a mild solution of soap and horticultural oil, and spray affected areas at a high jet setting to wipe out the pests. A more time-consuming but safer and more thorough method would be to dip a scrub sponge in the solution, and at one and the same time apply the solution to the plant while firmly rubbing away the insects. Pieris Lacebugs You can use the same spray-jet method for Pieris lace bugs but use Neem Oil, horticultural soap and other horticultural oils to make the mild solution. Ladybugs, which are natural predators of lace bugs, can be released on the affected plants. Caterpillars To combat caterpillar infestations the go-to natural remedy is Bacillus thuringiensis. 7) Diseases Some relatively common diseases that can affect Azaleas include bud blast, Azalea gall and honey fungus. Bud Blast Bud blast is a fungal disease that kills flower buds; it is spread by leafhoppers, a sap-sucking insect. The buds will turn brown and die and should be picked off as quickly as possible to prevent the fungal issue from spreading. Azalea Gall Azalea gall often affects indoor Azaleas and can also affect some growing outdoors. It is caused by the fungus Exobasidium japonicum and disfigures but will not kill the plant. Simply remove the lumpy galls before the problem can spread further. Powdery Mildew If Powdery Mildew is caught early, it can be brought under control by cutting off affected parts of the plant if not yet widespread to prevent further spread. If the problem is widespread, this may not be possible but ensure fallen leaves are still removed. To avoid recurrence of the disease the plant should not be closed in by other shrubbery; it should enjoy free flow of fresh air and ample sunlight. Honey Fungus Honey fungus is a more serious issue and Azaleas are susceptible. Unfortunately, this is almost impossible to eradicate once present in the soil, so you may have to grow non-susceptible plants in your garden if you have this problem. Petal Blight Petal blight is very hard to control once it has attacked the plant. All affected parts of the plant and nearby areas need to be cut off and removed, as does the soil underneath and close by. An Azalea plant will be more resistant to pests and diseases if it is grown and kept in (close to) optimal conditions, as outlined in earlier sections, and if negative factors are reduced or eliminated. Such factors pertain to soil type, soil pH, temperature levels, sun-shade mix, root level, soil moisture, and drought. “I always like to research where a plant originates before I select it for a garden,” shares Colin Skelly, a Gardening Consultant who has been awarded the Master of Horticulture status by the RHS. “If you can replicate its wild range, or something close to it, then the plant is likely to grow happily and healthily.” More than most plants, a happy Azalea is a healthy Azalea.
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Are Your Azaleas Getting Enough Water? Brown Leaves And Their Causes
IN THIS GUIDE What Causes Brown Leaves? 1) A Lack of Water 2) Cold Winds 3) Waterlogged Soil 4) Fungal Diseases & Pests Azaleas can be relatively easy shrubs to grow, as long as they are grown in the right location. It is important to remember that some Azaleas can be grown outdoors in the UK year-round, while others are tender and can only be grown indoors or under cover during the coldest months. However, though Azaleas can be easy to grow, there are certain problems that can arise. One of the main issues that you might notice is brown leaves. What Causes Brown Leaves? Brown leaves on Azaleas can be caused by a number of different things. Typically, however, brown leaves at a time of year when you would not usually expect to see them is a sign that those leaves are not getting enough water. Azalea leaves can turn brown when: You have not watered indoors grown Azaleas enough, or your outdoor Azaleas have experienced a period of drought. Drying, cold winds have meant that water has been lost faster than it could be replenished. There is not sufficient drainage and the soil or growing medium in a container has become waterlogged. A fungal infection or pest has damaged the roots so water can’t get to the leaves. Each of these reasons is discussed in more detail below: 1) A Lack of Water If the upper leaves on an azalea are crisp and brown around the edges, the first thing to check is whether this is due to a straightforward lack of water. Azaleas need a moist yet free-draining soil or growing medium. You might simply not have watered enough, especially if growing in pots, as potted plants will typically require more watering than those growing in the ground. Mulch around plants to retain moisture in the soil or growing medium, especially when the weather is dry. 2) Cold Winds Sometimes, the leaves may lose water more quickly than they can be replenished, even if there is no shortage of water in the soil or growing medium. The most common cause of this is cold, drying winds, which can be a problem for these plants during the winter months. Fortunately, plant stress in winter that occurs for this reason, or due to cold temperatures will usually recover once the conditions improve. However, make sure that you understand how hardy the azalea is that you are trying to grow. As mentioned above, some are much more tender than others and not all can cope with winter outdoors in the UK. 3) Waterlogged Soil Ironically, water not getting to the leaves of an azalea can also be a sign that you have watered too much, or that there is too much water in the soil or growing medium. “If you’re not sure of the cause of the leaf browning, get on your hands and knees and have a good look at the soil conditions,” Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly recommends. “Use a trowel to excavate the surrounding soil, being careful not to disturb the roots. “It will be obvious if the soil is dry and that is the problem. If not, then the soil may be holding too much water. “This may not be obvious if there has been recent rainfall and the soil is moist. Dig a small hole and pour in some water. If the water does not drain freely then waterlogging is likely the problem.” Waterlogging in the soil can lead to root damage, which can also cause root rot. 4) Fungal Diseases & Pests Water-logged soil and other environmental issues can also increase the likelihood of a fungal infection taking hold. Fungal diseases and pest issues can also lead to damage to either roots or leaves which can cause azalea leaves to turn brown. It’s generally advised to cut back any diseased plant material to help curtail its spread. There are a variety of solutions available for pests such as aphids that can help restore your plant to its former glory.
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