Growing
Common Garden Sage: How To Grow Salvia Officinalis And Its Common Cultivars
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Varieties How To Grow Sage Harvesting Common Problems References Sage is a fantastic herb to grow, not only for its many culinary uses, but it looks great when grown as an ornamental as well. It is easy to grow and care for and with hundreds of cultivars to grow, there is one to suit every spot, whether in the borders or in a container or pot outside the back door. Sage has only a few growing requirements – which this guide will cover – and if grown in the right place and looked after correctly, it can provide you with your own herbs to pick all year round. Overview Botanical Name Salvia officinalis Common Name(s) Common Sage; Culinary Sage Plant Type Herb / Shrub Native Area Mediterranean, Africa Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Blue or purple flowers When To Sow March, April, May Plant Out June, July Harvesting Months Year-Round Salvia officinalis, common garden sage or sage as it is most commonly referred to, is an evergreen small shrub from the Lamiaceae family.1 It is an intensely aromatic herb, with soft green-grey leaves and light blue flowers in summer. Classified as a sub-shrub, it is also often described as a perennial as in some parts of the UK – it may lose its leaves and die back a bit in winter, only to regrow again come spring. Native to the Mediterranean, its name stems from the Latin ‘salvere’, which translates as ‘to be well’.2 Varieties There are numerous cultivars of sage to grow, with some being rather tricky to come by here in the UK. However, there are some that are simply stunning and widely available, with foliage ranging from white and green to deep purple. S. officinalis ‘Purpurascens’ AGM ‘Purple sage’ as it is widely known, is a dwarf shrub growing to no more than H1M x W1M. With stunning purple stems and foliage when young, which turn green or grey with age, it produces small purple or blue flowers in summer. Its flowers will act as a magnet to bees and other pollinators. S. officinalis ‘Icterina’ AGM S. officinalis ‘Variegata’ as it is sometimes known, is a variegated dwarf shrub with yellow-gold and pale green foliage and pale blue flowers. Growing to an eventual size of H1M x W1M, it is another ‘Plant for Pollinators’ that will prove popular amongst bees and butterflies. S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ is another variegated variety, but with white and green leaves which are tinted pink on the new growth and produce blue flowers in early summer. A small, but spreading shrub, it will grow to H.4M x W.3M and is well suited to containers and pots. How To Grow Sage Being native to warmer climates, it is no surprise that sages grow best in full sun, a south or west-facing spot is ideal. Sage requires free-draining soil and the plants hate their roots becoming waterlogged, especially during winter. Sages are widely available from spring onwards as potted plants to grow directly in the ground or in containers. Soil Requirements If grown in heavy soils, it is advisable to add some grit to the compost mix or to the bottom of the planting hole, if planting directly into a border. If growing in pots, feet can also be used to lift the pot a few centimetres off the ground to help excess water drain away from the roots. Watering Sages are fairly drought-tolerant, but need to be watered until established and during hot and dry periods. However, try not to overwater as doing so can cause the plant to sulk. Pruning Pruning sage plants is relatively easy, they simply require any flowers to be deadheaded and the foliage lightly pruned for shape and size straight after flowering in summer. Winter Hardiness S. officinalis is hardiness rated as H5, meaning it is hardy down to temperatures of -10 to -15°C and will survive most winters here in the UK. Sages may struggle during a wet winter though. They are thankfully easy to propagate and grow as back-ups in case they don’t survive a harsh winter. Growing Sage From Seed Sage can be grown from seed in spring, which even though is a far cheaper option, will take longer until it can be used for cooking. To grow from seed: Simply fill a small pot with a peat-free multi-purpose compost and sow 3-5 seeds spaced out evenly on top. Cover lightly with compost or vermiculite and water gently – germination requires a temperature of 21°C, which either a warm indoor windowsill or a propagator can provide. Once germinated, move to a spot with indirect sunlight and allow to grow on until 3-5cm tall. Remove or transplant all but one seedling per pot. Grow the seedlings on under cover until all risk of frost has passed, when they can then be hardened off before planting or placing outside. Sage is easy to grow from cuttings and is a reliable way to produce more plants for free. Growing Sage From Cuttings For the best chance of success, cuttings roughly 8–10cm long of new growth can be taken from May to July. To prepare the cuttings: Cut just below a leaf node and strip off the lower leaves using a clean and sharp knife or pair of secateurs. Leaving just a few leaves at the top of each stem, place the cuttings 5cm deep around the edge of a pot filled with multi-purpose compost and water. Cuttings do not like to be allowed to dry out. To prevent this, a clean plastic bag can be placed over the top of the pot and cuttings, but make sure the bag does not touch the leaves. Keep out of direct sunlight, remove the bag after approximately 3 weeks and continue to grow until each cutting has developed its own roots and can then be potted on. Harvesting Sage leaves can be picked all year round, although it is said that the young shoots and leaves in summer can be the most flavoursome. Leaves can be picked individually or a small stem taken and used fresh, dried or frozen. To store as dried herbs, cut a bunch of stems and hang to dry in a dark and airy place. Once completely dry, they can then be stored in a sterile and airtight jar until needed. “As with other garden herbs, the tips or chopped leaves can be frozen in ice cubes and then put straight into stews and casseroles in winter,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This has become my go-to method in a kitchen with limited storage space.” Common Problems Sages are on the whole relatively pest and disease-free, although they can be susceptible to slug and snail and capsid bug damage. Slugs & Snails Slugs and snails can be troublesome when growing sage plants, especially when the plants are young. Slugs and snails will often leave a slimy trail and holes in the foliage behind them, even if you don’t see them during daylight hours. Slugs and snails are so prolific that some damage needs to be tolerated. However, certain measures can be taken to reduce the threat. Slugs tend to eat at night and a torch-lit slug hunt can prove surprisingly effective, along with using copper barriers, beer traps and encouraging predators such as hedgehogs, frogs and toads and birds in the garden. Capsid Bugs Capsid bugs attack several ornamentals including hydrangeas, fuchsias and sages. Feeding on plant sap, they damage the foliage and new buds leaving behind tell-tale holes. Being up to 1cm long they are easy to spot and regular checks of sage plants from early spring is recommended, before a more serious infestation might occur. Non-chemical controls are limited, but encouraging predators such as birds, hedgehogs and beetles may help. Chemical controls can include fatty acids and plant oils, however these sprays may need frequent re-application, as per their instructions. For heavy infestations, insecticides are available – however, they must not be used when the plant is in flower, as this can pose a danger to bees and other pollinators. References 1. Garden sage – Salvia officinalis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/garden-sage 2. Italian word of the day: “Salve.” (2018, October 22). The Local Italy. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.thelocal.it/20181022/italian-word-of-the-day-salve
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Growing Helianthemum 'Rock Rose' In Floral Designs, Groundcover Or Low Edging
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Rock Rose Plant Care Common Problems References Only about a foot high, Rock Rose shrubs offer advantages few plants of that size do. It is a no-care option that gets by in conditions that other flowering plants wither in – poor soil, aridity, and sea-spray are as if nothing. It provides year-round low-growing foliage of a cool green hue and oodles and oodles of simply delightful flowers from pastel yellow to ruby red. Overview Botanical Name Helianthemum Common Name(s) Rock Rose Plant Type Shrub Native Area Europe, South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Various When To Sow May, June, July, August, September Flowering Months June, July, August, September Helianthemum is a genus of 112 species of low-growing evergreen shrubs and subshrubs plus a few herbs that inhabit Europe, Northern Africa, and South-Western Asia.1 Members of this genus grow in numerous and varied habitats from oceanside cliffs to interior grasslands, and from highland meadows to rocky barrens. Helianthemum nummularium cultivars are spreading, mat-forming evergreens that are as if tailor-made for specific garden purposes like floral designs, groundcover, rock gardens, and low edging. Those Helianthemum species that have ornamental value and all of the cultivars are also formally named ‘Rock Rose’ though the genus as a whole with all its species is also sometimes informally referred to as Rock Rose. Be aware that – very confusingly – the related genus Cistus is also sometimes called Rock Rose. These spreading shrubs and subshrubs grow from about 20-50cm. Barring a few exceptions, all of the in-demand varieties reach heights of 25-35cm. Rock Rose ‘Orchard’s Royale’ This little plant’s small leaves are opposite; on some species the upper stems’ leaves are alternate. In the majority of varieties, the foliage is a subdued but coolly attractive greyish-green or bluish-green shade. Because of this tone and texture of the foliage, these plants are also called Frostwort. Interestingly, the shape of the leaves varies quite a bit even among the cultivars, varying from linear to ovate with the majority being lanceolate or elliptic. H. apenninum The arrangement of the flowers varies by species – they may be single or borne in some or another type of inflorescence. Flowers are always five-petalled and are disk-shaped or saucer-shaped. They are delightfully pretty and though the blooms last for but a day, these shrubs are incredibly prolific. Rock Rose plants typically bloom from late spring to midsummer, and profusely at that. Habitat & Growing Conditions These plants almost always grow in sunny locations, and most are lime-loving plants that grow well in chalky, calcareous soils. Apart from these two common factors they grow in semi-desert, grassland, field, hilly, and coastal locations. None of the species or cultivars need fertile soil and in nature, the species frequently grow in even stony and gravelly ground. All the desirable varieties are hardy to Zone H4, making them just hardy enough for almost the entire United Kingdom. How To Grow Rock Rose The very name Rock Rose is an indicator of where you can plant this tough but delightful shrub. It can make do in poor, gravelly or stony soil, and it is one of the best choices for rock gardens. These shrubs are perfect for narrow borders where you want low-growing plants. Any strips of indifferent soil, such as between a walkway and a dwelling’s wall, or between a driveway and a tiled courtyard, can be greened (and flowered) wonderfully well by Rock Rose varieties. Rock Rose varieties are excellent choices for groundcover on barren slopes and verges where the spreading mats will both control erosion and provide all-year greenery. In coastal locations that are windswept, have salt-sea air, and sandy ground where you will be hard-pressed to grow any flowering plants, Helianthemum will prove to be a godsend. Lastly, you can grow this plant between paving slabs and stones, and between paving slabs and bordering concrete to control erosion, crumbling, and to hold the ground and slabs together. “I use Helianthemum in two main ways: in the cracks and gaps of stone walls and between paving stones in gravel areas” shares Horticulturist and Garden Consultant Colin Skelly. “I always grow them in full sun. This environment reflects quite closely the habitat range of wild Helianthemum populations.” Growing From Seed Helianthemum can be grown from seed. This can be done indoors at the break of spring for transplanting outdoors in late spring, or the seeds can be sown directly outdoors in late spring which is the more straightforward option. Scarify and soak about half your seeds before sowing. Sow seeds on the surface and very lightly cover them with a sprinkling of soil. Water them well and keep watering frequently – they usually take 15 to 20 days to germinate. Plant Care The only no-nos for Helianthemum are heavy clay soils and acidic soils, and full shade. Other than that, anything goes. Preferred Soil Even though this is a lime-loving genus do not plant it in heavy clay soils. Indifferent soil is fine so long as it is alkaline – but if you have chalky soil and want to plant Rock Rose, you are in luck. A light, friable soil made up of gravel, sand, and chalk amended with just a little organic compost or humus will work out very well for all Helianthemum. They do not care for rich soils – the soil pH may be from Neutral to Moderately Alkaline – 6.6 to 8.4. Soil must drain well and should not stay damp, while the location should offer full sun or at least partial sun. Watering Gradually reduce the amount and frequency of watering as the plants grow. After they have matured they should be watered only when the soil dries out. As a guideline, about one centimetre of water twice a week should be enough. In the country’s colder regions it would be wise to mulch Helianthemums. Fertilising Fertilising is not needed but if you would like to try to boost the number of blooms over the season or its length, you can feed the plants once in mid-spring using a small amount of high potassium liquid fertiliser. Do not use a balanced fertiliser or one meant for ericaceous plants. Pruning Rock Rose does not need any pruning. However, you may prune them for two reasons: If you want the plants to stay close to the ground and form a mat-like groundcover, you can prune old woody stems in early spring. In favourable climates, you may be able to stimulate a second bloom in late summer or early autumn by cutting back the shrubs by about a third. Common Problems Rock Rose is not known to suffer from any pests or diseases. References 1. Helianthemum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002303-2#children
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Caragana: Where And How To Grow The Incredibly Hardy ‘Siberian Peatree’
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Where To Grow Caragana How To Grow Caragana Ongoing Care Pruning Caragana Common Problems Common Varieties References Caragana plants are a top choice when you have no time, poor soils, exposed locations, hard freezes, and other circs that most plants cannot tolerate. But though it’s as tough as nails, Caragana has brilliant green foliage, merry yellow blooms, and offers up tasty peas in autumn. And it can be grown as a large shrub, screening hedge, or small tree! Overview Botanical Name Caragana arborescens Common Name(s) Siberian Pea Tree, Siberian Pea Shrub Plant Type Tree / Shrub Native Area Siberia / Manchuria Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pale yellow flowers, followed by pods When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months June, July Harvesting Months September, October This is a genus of about 90 species, the vast majority of which are shrubs and only a few are small trees.1 In nature their heights range from 1-6m – however, most of the shrubs can be grown as small trees; indeed, the appearance and habit of some is in that grey zone between shrub and small tree. C. arborescens Consider that Caragana arborescens, the ‘flagship species’ is informally called ’Siberian Pea Shrub’ or ‘Siberian Pea Tree’ depending on whom you ask! It is also called ‘Russian Acacia’. Genus Caragana is a member of Family Fabaceae or the Pea Family.2 Not surprisingly, most species’ leguminous fruits are edible. Indeed, in British gardens those few Caragana species that are of interest are a ‘two for the price of one’ deal: they function as ornamental plants as well as edible ones. Essentially a Sino-Russian genus, Caragana shrubs are deployed for environmental purposes including erosion control and dune-fixation, and as windbreaks. As the season wears on, the flowers of many of the species form into edible leguminous pods – and then you’re faced with a choice. You can pick the pods and enjoy the delicious peas inside. Or you can let the pods mature on the plant, and wait, and wait, and…pop! Caragana pods have the endearing habit of bursting with an audible sound to scatter their seeds. Habitat & Growing Conditions Caragana species grow in an abundance of habitats in China, Russia and Central Asia from desert to forest, taking in grasslands, shrublands, steppes, and hills and mountains. C. arborescens and most of the species make their homes in infertile and poor soils, including alkaline soils. They withstand a fair amount of drought and aridity and they are immune to exposure and sea spray. Many species grow in frigid conditions well below zero. As one may expect, a plant with ‘Siberian’ in its name is fully hardy with a hardiness rating of Zone H7, as are most of the other species. C. arborescens and its cultivars are said to crop reliably and heavily in the eastern part of the UK but not quite as well in the western half, because of the difference in rainfall patterns. Where To Grow Caragana Caragana tolerates, hmmm – everything! Its toughness does give the gardener numerous options. You can use Caraganas to make a decorative windbreak that will offer summer colour and also autumn veggies. A row of suitably pruned Siberian Pea Shrubs could be used to make a pretty and utilitarian low screen (though in winters you will lose the screening effect). These plants can be treated as flowering bushes and grown in a cottage garden and also in a backyard kitchen garden. The weeping varieties are, of course, highly ornamental small trees. They are eminently suitable for a courtyard garden. They will have aesthetic value if planted in a row along a walkway, and also when used as a focal point at the door or by the dwelling’s wall between windows. Finally, if you have poor soil, a windswept location, a coastal site, or even all three, Caragana is one of the plants that will work very well for you. How To Grow Caragana Caragana species can be grown from seed, rooted from softwood cuttings, or bought as potted plants. The drawback to sowing seeds or rooting cuttings is that you will see flowers and pick peas after at least three years, most likely five. Sow seeds directly outdoors in spring. Scarify and soak half your seeds prior to sowing. Sow them about 1cm deep directly outdoors. Water in moderation and continue to water the bed. You should see seedlings sprouting in 15-20 days. Softwood cuttings too should be rooted in spring. Planting If you have a potted plant, transplant it in spring, otherwise in summer. The planting hole should be about as deep as the root system and about twice the width. Put the plant in the hole such that the roots are properly spread out and backfill the hole, making sure the soil level (of the main stem) is the same as it was in the pot and not any higher. Give it a good watering – water moderately every two or three days for a few weeks after which you may water it weekly. “Good weekly water during spring, summer, and dry autumn will help the health and establishment of your Caragana and will also give you the best chance of a good harvest,” shares Horticulturist Dan Ori. Ongoing Care Caragana species are very tough plants and do not require much care; the weeping cultivars, on the other hand, do need some attention. Caragnas should be sited in full sun or at least partial sun. Soil Though they will thrive even in poor soils, a gravel- and sand-based loam tending from Neutral to Moderately Acidic with organic compost or humus mixed in will allow the plant to flourish. Above all the soil should be well-drained. Feeding Caragana varieties do not need fertilising. However, you may certainly fertilise annually in early spring or mid-spring. Use a 0-10-10 liquid fertiliser. Pruning Caragana How you prune C. arborescens is entirely dependent on whether you want a Siberian Pea Shrub or a Siberian Pea Tree. For the former, you will pinch out the tip, control the height, and encourage early branching and bushiness; for the latter, you will promote the leader, prune sideshoots, and discourage early branching. Pruning Caragana also strongly depends on how you want to use these multi-purpose plants. For instance, if you want to create a flowering hedge that functions as a windbreak using Caragana, then you will have to prune the plants accordingly, by cutting back the stems to begin with. Do not prune the weeping cultivars other than to trim branches that may touch the ground and to remove shoots that may emerge from the side of the trunk. If you pick the pods when they are young, very soon after they form, the tender peas inside can even be enjoyed raw. However, it is not a problem if you pick them a little late, for more mature peas are perfectly fine in cooked dishes. Common Problems Caragana is not known to suffer from any pests or diseases. Birds may take a liking to the pods so you may have to guard your peas from being consumed before you get to them. Common Varieties C. arborescens AKA: Siberian Pea Shrub or Siberian Pea Tree The ‘lead’ species, so to speak, of the genus. Though numerous Caragana species are appreciated and grown for different purposes in China, Tibet, and Russia, this is the most well-known one in the UK (and the USA as well). It typically grows to 3-4.5m but may reach up to 6m. Its buttery yellow flowers blossom in May or June, and their fragrance and nectar pulls bees and butterflies. You can very much decide whether C. arborescens becomes a small tree or a shrub by pruning it per your choice – while this species also makes excellent bonsai plants. C. arborescens ‘Walker’ AKA: Walker’s Weeping Pea Shrub A small tree which has four equidistant stems arching out from the top of the central stem and ‘weeping’ downward. It is a cultivar that needs a little help from its human friends to start ‘weeping’ and attain its form, which is not a natural one. Stems are grafted on the top of the developing trunk. Once grafted, the stems grow outward and downward naturally without reaching the ground or coming close to it. The bright light green leaves are small and fine, even somewhat feathery. It attains a height of only 1.5-1.8m with a spread of about 1m. It was developed in Manitoba, Canada and is becoming a sought-after variety in both the United Kingdom and the United States. C. arborescens ‘Pendula’ The two names may be mistaken as synonyms for the same variety but this is not the case. ‘Pendula’ too is a small tree with a weeping form but there are a few points of difference. Its pendulous branches come very close to the ground, and may need to be trimmed. The foliage is quite dense all round the tree but has an airy and fluffed-up look. The bark is noticeably smooth and sheeny. Finally, this variety grows from 1.5m to an ultimate height of nearly 3m with a spread of 1-2m that is made pronounced by the fluffed-up foliage. It is also experiencing a rise in demand on both sides of the Pond. C. sinica Attains heights of 1.5-2m. It bears insignificant yellow flowers of only 1cm. It has dark brown bark and is native to central and eastern China. C. pygmaea Is, as one might expect, a dwarf variety. It attains a height of only about 50cm. Among its set of special features are golden yellow branches and brilliant green leaves. The yellow flower is 1-1.5cm with short upper claws. It is an excellent no-maintenance deciduous shrub for rockeries with poor soil. References 1. Caragana. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:21935-1 2. Caragana frutex. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/caragana-frutex/
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Tarragon Isn't Always The Easiest Herb To Grow, But Works Well In The Right Conditions
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Tarragon? How To Grow Tarragon Companion Planting Growing From Seed Planting Tarragon Tarragon Plant Care References Tarragon is a useful culinary herb to grow in your garden or indoors. It is not always the easiest herb to grow here in the UK, but this simple guide should help you understand it better – and to make the right choices and care for it in the right way if you want to grow it at home. Overview Botanical Name Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa Common Name(s) French Tarragon, Russian Tarragon Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pale yellow When To Sow / Plant Out April, May, June, July, August Harvesting Months June, July, August, September There are two main types of culinary tarragon, informally known as French tarragon and Russian tarragon. French Tarragon A. dracunculus var. sativa, is a common culinary herb. French tarragon is considered to be the superior herb for kitchen use and it is one of the fines herbes of French cuisine. Russian Tarragon Sometimes considered a variant of A. dracunculus – botanically named A. dracunculoides – is considered to be weaker in flavour, but is better equipped to survive colder temperatures and tends to grow more vigorously. It spreads at the roots, thrives on neglect, and copes with poor soils and even drought. While not great as a culinary herb, Russian tarragon does have a range of other uses and is sometimes grown where French tarragon will not thrive. In the UK, French tarragon is usually the variety recommended for cultivation. This is a short-lived perennial herb which, though it will usually only continue producing for a few years, can be propagated for a continued supply. Why Grow Tarragon? Growing tarragon, especially French Tarragon, is a great choice for those who love cooking with their own homegrown produce and herbs. The aromatic leaves have a lovely liquorice or anise-like flavour and can be used fresh or dried for later use.1 Additionally, tarragon is notable for its ability to attract beneficial wildlife to the garden. It is also said to aid in repelling certain pest species as well as sheltering beneficial insects. How To Grow Tarragon Tarragon needs a warm, dry and sunny position, with well-drained neutral or slightly alkaline soil. It is most frequently grown in a dedicated herb garden alongside other Mediterranean herbs which enjoy the same or similar growing conditions like rosemary, lavender, marjoram, oregano, thyme etc. However, it may also be beneficial to consider placing tarragon (either in the ground or in containers) around the crops you are growing in your kitchen garden for beneficial wildlife attraction and organic pest control. Companion Planting Like other aromatic herbs, tarragon makes a great companion plant for a range of garden crops and other plants. Anecdotally, some have also traditionally believed it to enhance the growth and flavour of other crops grown close by – so you may also wish to consider growing tarragon in pots close to annual vegetable areas, or placing tarragon around the edges of annual beds. Tarragon is said to be a particularly beneficial companion plant for aubergines and peppers, though it could aid a range of other plants too. Growing From Seed French tarragon is a perennial herb that does not flower or set seed reliably, meaning it is not usually grown from seed. When seed for tarragon is sold, this is usually the inferior form of Russian tarragon. If you wish to grow French tarragon, you will usually purchase pot-grown plants in spring. These tarragon plants are usually potted up into larger pots filled with a free-draining growing medium, or they are planted out into free-draining garden soil in a sunny, sheltered spot. Planting Tarragon If you are growing tarragon in a pot, choose a container which allows for dry and free-draining conditions as the plants are said to taste better when not grown in moist conditions, in relatively poor soil. A terracotta pot is ideal for growing herbs which prefer drier and more free-draining conditions. Fill your container with a peat-free multi-purpose compost with plenty of horticultural grit. Make sure you place a crock at the base – and use a pot stand – to ensure that water can always drain away freely. Plant the tarragon to the same depth in this container as it was in its previous one. If you are planting tarragon out in your garden, be sure to choose a site where water drains freely, and where the tarragon will get as much warmth and sun as possible. Make sure that you avoid frost pockets, and any areas which become waterlogged – tarragon roots will rot in wet or heavy soils. Plant out in spring as soon as the weather has warmed reliably and frosts are well passed. Tarragon Plant Care French tarragon is not as easy as some other perennial herbs to grow. While it can be very tolerant of poor soils and free drainage, it can be fussy about other conditions and it is important to care for your plants correctly if you want to see the best results. Watering Though tarragon likes free-draining conditions, it is important not to let the growing medium dry out entirely, especially when you are growing tarragon in pots. Young plants, and plants grown in containers, will require more frequent watering than mature specimens and those growing in the ground. Make sure that you water regularly throughout the growing season, but do not overwater. Try also to ensure that plants do not stand in water during heavy rains, or suffer excessive watering, as this can cause the roots to rot. Pruning & Harvesting You can pick the leaves of tarragon any time throughout the growing season. The leaves will continue to come as long as the plant does not flower. It is good practice to cut back or harvest around half of your plants in around June for a continuous harvest. If you see flower buds emerging, you should nip these out so that the plants continue to produce their leaves. Pests & Problems Tarragon can be very popular with slugs, especially early in the season and when plants are young and small. Remain vigilant as you may lose entire plants to these pests if you do not catch them early. Pick slugs by hand to remove them, use physical barriers, and remember that the best way to control slugs in an organic garden is to entice plenty of their predators to your garden to keep their numbers down. Tarragon can also be susceptible to fungal infections like powdery mildew and rust. Avoid overcrowding, ensure adequate drainage, make sure you are watering correctly, and grow in cooler conditions to reduce the chances of these problems taking hold. Remove and carefully dispose of any affected plant material as quickly as possible. Winter Care French tarragon is borderline hardy, so will need to be in a sheltered position over the winter months, or moved under cover in colder areas. In colder areas, you can also consider protecting the plant with a cloche or horticultural fleece. The above-ground growth will die back each autumn, but new growth should emerge in the spring as long as the roots remained healthy over the winter months. Waterlogging rather than temperature is usually the main issue, so it is often a good idea to move the tarragon to an unheated greenhouse or cool porch, for example, over the coldest and wettest part of the year. “French Tarragon will not survive the winter wet in my garden,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I grow it in a pot and keep it in a cold greenhouse over winter, making sure to water very minimally whilst it is not in active growth.” Placing pots in the rain shadow of a wall or fence may also help. Propagating By Division French tarragon, as mentioned above, cannot usually be reliably propagated by seed – but once you have a tarragon plant, you can still increase your plant stock and ensure an ongoing supply of this useful herb by taking root divisions of mature plants. Remember, though tarragon is a perennial plant, it will run out of steam after a few years. Taking divisions is a good way to make sure you have new plants to replace the older ones. In autumn, take a mature, large tarragon plant in a pot. Remove the plant from its pot and saw the root ball in half. Repot one half, using fresh, peat-free multipurpose compost and grit, then divide the remaining half into a number of root cuttings. Cut off the top growth from your root cuttings, and prune off thin straggly roots so that each cutting can fit into a module or small pot. Take care not to do any damage to the main creeping rhizome which stores the energy for next year’s crop. Then pot up these root cuttings and water lightly. Label them, then place them in an unheated greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frame over winter before planting out the following spring. Tarragon is not always the easiest herb to grow in the UK, but it is worth it for those gourmands who want to grow all the fresh ingredients needed for their culinary creations in their own garden. References 1. Tarragon. (2018, December 17). FoodPrint. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://foodprint.org/real-food/tarragon/
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Oregano Is An Extremely Useful Culinary Herb: Here Are Some Growing Options
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Oregano? How To Grow Oregano Companion Planting Oregano Plant Care Common Problems Winter Care References Oregano is a very useful culinary herb and also a great companion plant. Oregano is a herb with which many people are familiar in the kitchen – but oregano is not just useful in your kitchen, it can be handy in your garden too. Overview Botanical Name Origanum vulgare Common Name(s) Oregano Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Many small, pink flowers When To Sow February, March, April Plant Out May, June Flowering Months July, August, September Harvesting Months June, July, August, September Oregano – Origanum vulgare – is a flowering herb in the mint family (Lamiaceae).1 Originally native (and with strong connections to) the Mediterranean region, it is now grown in gardens and has naturalised in many areas across the temperate northern hemisphere.2 It is closely related to marjoram, another interesting culinary herb to consider growing in your garden.3 “Marjorams are all in the oregano genus,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “Sweet marjorams botanical name is Origanum majorana, and, as mentioned, what we commonly refer to as oregano is Origanum vulgare.“ This is a perennial herb, though it is often grown as an annual in colder areas where it does not overwinter successfully. In the kitchen, oregano is often used dried rather than fresh, when the flavour is more intense. It is a staple in Italian cuisine and is also commonly utilised in other Mediterranean cuisines and in Mexican cooking. Pungent and strong tasting, it is popular in a range of dishes and is a versatile and useful ingredient to have on hand when growing your own. Why Grow Oregano? One of the main reasons to grow oregano is so that you can use it in your kitchen, as a culinary herb. However, Oregano is also an aromatic herb which can be a good companion plant for a range of common crops. It attracts a range of beneficial insects which help to maintain balance and reduce pest dominance in an organic garden. For example, it brings in predatory insects, which help keep down sap-sucker populations. What is more, oregano can also be an attractive plant – it has beautiful flowers when in bloom, which not only attract wildlife but which also enhance the appearance of your garden. Some particularly attractive varietals to consider are: ‘Aureum Crispum’ ‘Compactum’ How To Grow Oregano Like other Mediterranean herbs, oregano thrives in a warm and sunny location. It is hardy down to around -20°C in the right places, though needs a free-draining soil and will not thrive in waterlogged or excessively damp conditions. It can tolerate an exposed spot, but will generally do best somewhere a little more warm and sheltered. It is not particularly fussy when it comes to soil pH but will do best in slightly alkaline conditions. This is a fairly drought-tolerant plant, which can cope with even relatively poor soils. When growing herbs, it is always important to remember that you have a number of choices about how and where you grow them. Oregano can be grown: In a dedicated herb garden alongside other Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, marjoram and thyme, for example. In perennial planting schemes alongside other flowering perennials or perennial food crops which like similar growing conditions. In guilds for fruit trees or other fruiting perennials. Around the fringes of annual cultivation areas as a companion plant. In pots or containers; in a windowsill herb garden. Growing From Seed Oregano can be grown from seed, though it is more common to purchase young plants in pots to place in your garden. If you do decide to sow oregano seed, you can do so indoors any time between February and May: Fill a small pot with seed compost and sow seeds on the surface. Cover the seeds very lightly with sieved compost, water the pot, and place this in a propagator to germinate. Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick out three seedlings to place into a pot around 8cm in diameter, filled with a peat-free multipurpose compost. Companion Planting As mentioned above, oregano is beneficial as a wildlife attractant (and may also repel, confuse or distract certain pest species). For this reason, it makes a great companion plant for: Tomatoes and peppers. Squash, cucumbers and other cucurbits. Brassicas (cabbage family plants). Grape vines, and a number of fruit trees and fruit bushes. Other Mediterranean herbs (rosemary, lavender, thyme etc.). This does not include more moisture-loving herbs like basil, chives and mint. Just remember that oregano should only be planted in the same growing area or same container as other plants which like free-draining conditions. Chives and oregano So in the case of some of these crops, it may be better to place oregano in a container close by, rather than actually in the same bed. Oregano Plant Care As long as oregano is being grown in suitable conditions, it should not be too difficult to care for. Here are the main jobs when caring for oregano that you should keep in mind: Watering Oregano grown outdoors will usually only require additional watering during particularly pronounced or prolonged dry periods. However, when growing in containers it is important to remember that oregano plants will dry out more quickly and need to be watered more frequently. Keep the growing medium moist, but also make sure that you do not overwater as this can cause a range of problems. Harvesting Oregano leaves can be harvested from your plant from late spring onwards. To harvest, simply cut off a few shoots and then remove the leaves to use as desired. It is best to harvest before the flowers open as this is when the leaves have the best taste. Just remember to leave some flowers to bring ecological benefits to the wildlife in your garden. The leaves can be used fresh, or dried before use; you can also consider freezing some oregano in water in an ice cube tray and preserving it that way. Feeding After the flowers begin to fade, you can cut back the plants – giving them a trim to keep them compact and healthy. After doing so, you should give pot-grown plants a boost by applying an organic liquid feed. Feeding oregano growing in the ground is not typically required. Propagation To save seeds from oregano: Harvest the flowers as they start to dry out. Bundle the flower heads with twine and hand them upside down to dry for a couple of weeks. Once the flowers have dried fully, shake them over a paper bag to shake free any seeds left in the flowers. Winnow to separate the seeds from the chaff. Store the seeds in a cool, dry location in a sealed container and use them within 3-5 years. You can also propagate oregano by taking cuttings – this is often easier, and you will usually have the best results if you take softwood cuttings in spring. Take cuttings around 7-10cm long, cutting diagonally just above a node; remove all but the uppermost two leaves from the stem section. Dip the bottom of the cuttings in rooting hormone and place the cuttings into a pot of moist potting soil and wait to see healthy new growth. Wait an additional month or so to allow the new plants to establish before transplanting them to their final growing positions. Common Problems Aphids are attracted to oregano, and can become an issue, but the creatures that attract aphids should arrive and eat these pests to keep their numbers down. When growing oregano under cover, red spider mites and two-spotted mites may be an issue. In a greenhouse, you may wish to consider using a biological control. You should also mist plants regularly as these pests thrive in lower humidity and hot, dry conditions, Winter Care As winter sets in, oregano plants will die back. Cut back dead stems to the base. One of the key things to remember is that oregano is tolerant of cold temperatures and should come back next spring. That being said, these plants cannot tolerate wet and waterlogged conditions. For this reason, make sure that oregano grown in containers are placed on pot feet which allow excess water to drain away freely – and place pots in a sheltered position, away from excess water. In order to continue to enjoy oregano leaves in the winter months, however, you can also consider lifting the plants before the first frosts in autumn and placing them in a bright, light location indoors or under cover. References 1. Oregano – Origanum. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/origanum/common-name/oregano/ 2. Origanum vulgare. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:453395-1 3. University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources. (2022, April). Oregano & Sweet Marjoram. Regents of the University of California. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Food_Gardening/Feature_Vegetables/Oregano_-_Marjoram/
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Growing Sword Lilies With Fred Miller From The Empire State Gladiolus Society
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Gladiolus? Gladiolus Varieties Where To Grow Gladiolus Gladiolus Companion Planting Gladiolus Care Common Problems Division References Gladiolus bulbs are technically ‘corms’. Gladioli are beautiful flowers, which can look great in your garden, whether you grow them in the ground or in pots. In this article, you’ll learn when to plant the bulbs, how to plant them, and with what. We even interviewed Fred Miller from the Empire State Gladiolus Society to provide additional insight. “When planted deep enough, gladioli hold themselves upright and bloom as planned each season”, shares Fred, when asked why he is so passionate about these plants. “The many colours and sizes make them the perfect cutting flower to be used on their own in a vase or in an arrangement with other flowers”. Overview Botanical Name Gladiolus Common Name(s) Sword Lilies Plant Type Bulbs / Perennials Native Area Asia, Mediterranean, Europe, South Africa & Tropical Africa Hardiness Rating Differs by variety Foliage Deciduous Flowers Various Flowering Months June, July Plants in this genus, in the Iris family, are sometimes called ‘Sword Lilies’ and the name comes from the diminutive form of the Latin for ‘sword’.1 There are around 300 different species of Gladioli native to Asia, Mediterranean Europe, South Africa and tropical regions of Africa.2 Many species have been used in hybridisation, and now there are many, many varieties out there for gardeners to choose from.3 Today’s main hybrids used in horticulture have been obtained through the interbreeding of four or five different species. Gladiolus have sword-like leaves, and tall flower spikes with funnel-shaped blooms in a huge range of colours. They fell out of fashion for a time but are now making a resurgence. “Gladiolus is definitely making a comeback,” shares Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “I like to grow some of the species, such as G. communis subsp. byzantina and G. murielae. “These are not very tall, so tend to stay upright without support and the flowers are striking without being overly blousy.” Why Grow Gladiolus? Gladioli are sometimes thought of as quite fussy and stolid as a garden choice. With a heavily floral scheme, they can sometimes create a rather old-fashioned appearance to a garden bed, border or pot. However, alongside grasses and lighter perennial blooms, they can look great and bring good contrast to a design. As well as looking good in beds, borders and containers, Gladioli also make very good cut flowers, to bring into your home. The flowers can bloom between March and August, depending on when they were planted, and which variety or varieties you are growing. You might be interested to hear that gladiolus flowers are also edible – you can use the mild-lettuce-like petals as you would use squash blossoms.4 With some varieties, the corms also have culinary uses and are considered a delicacy. Gladiolus Varieties There are a huge range of Gladioli to consider growing in a UK garden. “The many colours and sizes make them the perfect cutting flower to be used by themselves, or in an arrangement with other flowers,” argues Fred. Pink Gladiolus ‘Robinetta’ Some options to consider are: G. ‘Robinetta’ (recurvus hybrid) (AGM) G. communis subsp. byzantius (AGM) G. murielae (Abyssinian gladiolus) (AGM) G. italicus (Field gladiolus) G. papilio (butterfly sword gladiolus) G. cardinalis (waterfall gladiolus) G. tristis (evening flower) G. ‘Trader Horn’ G. ‘Charming Beauty’ G. ‘Belle de Nuit’ G. ‘Vera Lynn’ G. ‘The Bride’ G. ‘Happy Weekend’ G. nanus ‘Charm’ G. ‘Miss Green’ Of course, these are just some of the many beautiful options that you could consider growing in your garden. Where To Grow Gladiolus It is important to remember that Gladioli come from hot and sunny places – so it is important to choose a location in your garden where they will be able to enjoy a sheltered spot, with as much sunshine as possible. Gladiolus varieties can be grown in the ground in a sunny bed or border, or in a container, as long as moist yet free-draining conditions can be provided. Fred Miller explains that one of the most important factors in growing gladioli is that you buy and plant good quality corms. You can plant directly into the ground as long as there are fertile conditions and as long as the soil does not become waterlogged. If growing in the ground, be sure to add plenty of organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. In more northern parts of the UK, Gladioli are unlikely to overwinter successfully in the ground; it can be better to grow these in containers that can be moved undercover. However, you can also grow them in a border in summer and mulch heavily for protection, or you can lift the corms for winter storage. Gladiolus Companion Planting Gladiolus do not bring any particular benefits for other plants growing close by. But choosing the right companions for Gladioli can help you achieve an attractive display. In larger containers, for example, or in a bed or border, you might pair a number of different Gladiolus varieties. “We grow Dahlias,” says Fred. “The best part about dahlias is as you cut them, more new blooms grow, and continue throughout the growing season. We enjoy arranging them in a vase with the gladiolus.” Growing with zinnias might be another good option. You might also create a dramatic border with Gladioli and Foxtail lilies, or with Alliums, Verbena bonariensis and grasses for a lighter look. Gladiolus Care Gladiolus are not particularly difficult to care for if you grow them in the right spot. Giving them full sun and plenty of water are said to be the two most important factors for these plants. However, there are a number of other things that you have to get right to grow them successfully. Support One thing to think about is that most Gladiolus varieties will need some form of support. Usually, the plants will have to be staked before the flower spike emerges. Remember, you do not necessarily have to buy in your plant supports – you may be able to make use of branches or bamboo canes grown elsewhere in your garden. You should tie in your plants to your stakes to make sure that they do not flop over or become damaged as they grow. Watering Make sure that you water well during the growing season, especially when growing gladioli in containers. Just make sure that the water can drain freely, and the soil or growing medium is kept consistently moist, but not damp and waterlogged. Feeding For best results, feed your gladioli with an organic liquid feed while it is in flower. An organic feed suited to tomatoes will work well for gladioli too. For example, you might use a liquid feed made from comfrey for the purpose. This potassium-rich feed should encourage healthy and beautiful flowers. Common Problems Gladioli can be bothered by slugs, and also by sap-suckers like thrips and aphids. “Watch for thrips (and other pests) and be sure to keep them away from your plants”, says Fred. Taking care of wildlife in your organic garden, and boosting biodiversity can help keep pest populations under control. Make sure you attract slug-eating creatures, and predatory insects like ladybirds and lacewings to your garden to reduce the chances of these problems occurring. You should also remain vigilant, and remove affected foliage and blooms quickly when you spot an insect infestation. To avoid problems Fred Miller suggests that once the plant is done blooming, or cut, you should let the leaves grow for 6 weeks before you harvest the corms for the next growing season. Diseases Gladioli can be affected by a range of plant diseases including Botrytis Blight, Leafspot, Scab and more.5 Keeping corms healthy to avoid introducing these problems is an essential requirement for anyone growing these plants, insists Fred. “Most of us here in Central New York, USA are careful not to compost old mother corms or stalks. We either burn them or throw them out,” he says. Division Every few years, in autumn, it is best to divide mature Gladioli clumps. There are two main reasons for this – Avoiding congestion – when gladioli clumps become congested, the plants will be weaker, and flowering may reduce considerably. The plants may even stop flowering altogether. Propagating new plants – corms can be split from the clump to create new plants for a different container, or a different part of your garden. Gladiolus bulbs, or corms, can provide you with colour and interest in your garden over a number of years to come, as long as you place them in the right places and care for them correctly. All said, Gladioli can be a great choice for a long-lasting, beautiful garden. References 1. Origin and meaning of gladiolus. (n.d.). Etymonline. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.etymonline.com/word/gladiolus 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2023f, March 9). Gladiolus | Description, Species, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Gladiolus 3. Chaudhary, V., Kumar, M., Sharma, S. K., Kumar, N., Kumar, V., Yadav, H. K., & Sirohi, U. (2018). Assessment of genetic diversity and population structure in gladiolus (Gladiolus hybridus Hort.) by ISSR markers. Physiology and Molecular Biology of Plants, 24(3), 493–501. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12298-018-0519-2 4. Daily home & garden tip: Fill edible gladiolus blossoms for a dramatic dish. (2011, April 30). The Oregon. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.oregonlive.com/homesandgardens/2011/04/daily_home_garden_tip_fill_edi.html 5. Gladiolus Diseases. (n.d.). Penn State Extension. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://extension.psu.edu/gladiolus-diseases
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How To Grow Parsley: You'll Need To Sow Anew Each Year But Needs Little Care
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Parsley? How To Grow Parsley Common Problems Storage References Amongst the most popular herbs and spices you’ll find parsley, sometimes dried but preferably fresh. The distinctive flavour works in all manner of dishes, whether as a sprig on top of a bowl of baba ganoush, chopped up and worked through some falafel mix, or as the main flavour in something like tabbouleh. And if you enjoy cooking and love the fresh, crisp flavour of parsley, there’s nothing better than having your own supply ready to go as and when you need it. Overview Botanical Name Petroselinum crispum Common Name(s) Parsley Plant Type Herb Native Area Northwest Africa and Balkan Peninsula Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous When To Sow March, April, May, June Plant Out July While it’s possible to buy parsley fresh – either in a packet or growing in a pot – there’s a special charm to growing your own. Not only can you humble-brag to friends and family that you grew some of the ingredients in this delicious plate of food yourself, but you’ll also notice subtle differences in the flavour. Parsley is a plant grown mainly as a herb, thanks to its distinctive and versatile flavour. The plant is native to Mediterranean countries but thanks to its popularity, has now been naturalised in many other regions.1 The type of parsley you’re probably most familiar with is curly leaf parsley: commonly used as a garnish to lift a dish both aesthetically and in terms of flavour. Flat-leaved French parsley is also used in cooking and is grown in the same way. Why Grow Parsley? Realistically, the best reason to grow parsley is for its culinary applications. As a plant it’s not the most attractive or exciting, so growing it to look at isn’t really recommended. If you enjoy cooking though, and especially if you enjoy cooking dishes with some Mediterranean element, a supply of your own fresh, home-grown parsley will revolutionise your cooking endeavours. Rather than using a few sprigs from a pre-bought packet then watching in despair as the rest slowly go soggy and turn black, you can instead snip bits off of the mother plant as and when they’re required. How To Grow Parsley Growing parsley isn’t complicated. In fact, there’s nothing here beyond the scope of even the most beginner gardener: you just need the most basic supplies like seeds, compost, and either a couple of pots or a patch of ground to work with. Bear in mind before starting that while technically parsley is a biennial, it behaves like an annual when grown for food purposes, meaning you’ll need to sow anew each year. Growing From Seed One of the great things about growing your own parsley is that you can sow in such a way that guarantees a succession of harvests throughout the year. Sowing parsley is cheap and easy, and having a series of fresh plants coming into maturity in fortnightly or monthly intervals gives you constant access to the highest quality sprigs: Place parsley seeds by hand in rows 30cm apart. Leave a centimetre between each seed to give them space to grow. Push seeds about a centimetre below the surface of the soil: not too deep otherwise they won’t be able to grow. Planting Out Once your parsley is established, move them to allow 15cm between each plant. It can take up to six weeks for the seeds to germinate so don’t worry if things appear to be moving slowly. Where To Grow Parsley Parsley likes soil that’s well-drained, and will favour a spot with full sun or partial shade. If you’re growing parsley in a pot you can move it around, but if you’re growing in the ground take care to check the conditions are right before deciding on a spot. Fertilising Parsley enjoys seaweed-based fertiliser, and applying this every once in a while will encourage a bushier and more vibrant bloom. Watering Avoid letting the soil dry out as young parsley plants like to have access to good amounts of moisture. Keep an extra careful eye on your parsley plant during hot summer spells, as it’s prone to get dehydrated and dry out. Pruning Trim back any areas of your parsley plant that are turning yellow, as this will allow the plant to direct growth towards the stronger areas. Yellow parsley isn’t as attractive or tasty as its bright green brethren, so there’s no sense keeping hold of it from a culinary perspective either. Common Problems Keep your eyes peeled for these pests, as they might take a fancy to your parsley crop and cause damage if left unattended. Carrot Fly Who’d believe that a specific type of fly would evolve to harass carrots and – like parsley – other members of the carrot family? Well unfortunately, you better believe it. These flies, Psila rosae, focus their entire life cycle on the pillaging of carrots and their close cousins. By tunnelling into the roots and eating various parts of the plant, these pests cause damage and rotting if left unattended. “Prevention is the best cure for carrot fly, so sow thinly to prevent thinning seedlings which attracts the fly, use insect-proof netting to cover crops, water biological controls such as nematodes into the soil and rotate crops by not growing them in the same place in subsequent years,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. As a last resort, use an organic pesticide spray if you see these critters investigating your parsley crop. Slugs & Snails Slugs and snails, predictably, like to interfere with parsley crops. They will happily chew through the leaves, with the combined effect of reducing the amount available for cooking, and making you wary of using what’s left in case it’s covered in slime trails. By planting parsley near onions and garlic you can deter these slimy visitors. Alternatively look into the various types of traps and barriers available to keep them away from your crop and consider biological controls such as nematodes. Storage While best used fresh, there are a few ways to store parsley to keep your crop in good condition for later use. Freezing is one option: chop up leaves, then fill ice cube tray sections with parsley and water to make little parsley cubes. Simply chuck one of these into the pan when cooking a dish that requires this herb! You can also dry parsley by hanging it in bunches in a warm, dark, airy space. After a few weeks it’ll be noticeably dry, and you can crush up the leaves (either in a pestle and mortar, or with a quick blitz in a blender) and store them in a jar or similar container. Again, this format of parsley isn’t great when you need that distinctive fresh flavour, but works very well in cooked dishes. Hopefully you’re now intrigued and excited to grow your own parsley. With cheap seeds and easy-to-follow growing instructions, it’s hard to go far wrong when growing this plant. References 1. Mahr, S. (n.d.-h). Parsley, Petroselinum crispum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/parsley-petroselinum-crispum/
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Grow Weeping Willow Trees For Their Ornamental And Practical Value - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Weeping Willow? How To Grow A Weeping Willow Planting A Weeping Willow Weeping Willow Care References Weeping willow are huge, beautiful trees which can find a place in many gardens. Willow (Salix spp.) is a genus of trees that can come in a range of shapes, sizes and forms. Weeping varieties are plants within this genus that have pendulous branches, which bend over and drape towards the ground. Overview Plant Name Weeping Willow Common Types Salix babylonica, Salix alba ‘Tristis’, Salix purpurea ‘Pendula’ etc. Plant Type Tree Native Area Temperate Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating H5-H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Various When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months March, April When To Prune February, March When people talk about weeping willow, there are a number of different trees to which they could be referring. S. babylonica They are often referring to S. babylonica – a deciduous tree with weeping form. They can grow to around 8-12m tall, with a similar width. However, this tree does not usually thrive in the UK, and is now largely replaced with the below in cultivation. S. alba ‘Tristis’ Another weeping willow is Salix x sepulcralis var. chrysocoma (also referred to as Salix alba ‘Tristis’). It is also sometimes referred to as ‘Golden Weeping Willow’. This is a hybrid of our native white willow, and the above-mentioned Salix babylonica; it is common in parks and gardens and is one of the first willows to come into leaf, in March. This is a large tree, which grows taller than 12m and wider than 8m. S. purpurea ‘Pendula’ Purple weeping willow, S. purpurea ‘Pendula’ is another weeping willow to consider. This is a fairly compact willow tree, which grows to around 3.5 x 2.5m. S. caprea ‘Pendula’ The term ‘weeping willow’ can also refer to S. caprea ‘Pendula’, which goes by the names weeping goat willow, weeping pussy willow or Kilmarnock willow. This is an even smaller tree more suited to smaller gardens which will grow to around 1.5-2.5m in both height and width. S. integra ‘Pendula’ Another small tree is a dwarf weeping willow, S. integra ‘Pendula’, which has a compact height and width of just around 1.5 x 1m. Why Grow Weeping Willow? Weeping willows are extremely attractive ornamental trees. Their pendulous form, along with their foliage and catkins produced in the spring make these very pretty trees to consider adding to a garden. However, beyond their ornamental appeal, there are a range of other reasons to grow willows like these in your garden. Willow bark can be used to make a rooting compound which is used to help cuttings to root more successfully. The stems and bark are also very useful in basketry and in a range of other craft projects – and good charcoal can be made from the wood. Beyond these uses, willow can also be useful in land management and in organic garden design – it can help in managing water and solving waterlogging issues. Willows can also help to stabilise the soil with their vigorous and extensive root systems. How To Grow A Weeping Willow Willows all like moderately deep, fertile soils in full sun. They tend to like moist conditions and some can cope well with waterlogged or even wetland margin sites. They will often be positioned on a riverbank, or close to a garden pond. They can cope with a wide range of different soil types and pH levels, and can cope with exposed sites. Some even cope with maritime exposure and willows also tend to have good tolerance to atmospheric pollution. One thing to note is that willows, especially larger weeping willows, have extensive and moisture-seeking roots which can cause problems with drains. To play it safe do not place a weeping willow (especially a bigger one) too close to buildings, water pipes or a septic system. Planting A Weeping Willow Willows do not tend to respond well to transplanting, so care should be taken to plant them into their permanent positions as soon as possible. Weeping willow trees are most frequently purchased as pot-grown specimens. These can be planted out at any time of the year. However, it is best to plant these out in spring or early autumn and to avoid planting during particularly hot and dry periods. Willows can sometimes also be purchased as bare-root plants and planted out during the dormant period. When planting a weeping willow, dig a hole that is the same depth as the root ball, and around twice as wide. You can consider adding mycorrhizal fungi to the planting hole to aid establishment. Firm a mix of the existing soil and compost back around the root ball, making sure that the willow is planted at the same depth as it was before. Make sure that you do not bank up the soil around the base of the tree – mulch well with organic matter but make sure that this does not touch the trunk. Weeping Willow Care Watering Weeping willow trees should be watered well during dry periods, especially during the first few months as they become established. These trees will need more watering in summer, and less as temperatures fall. Feeding Your weeping willow should not require additional fertilisation as long as the soil is suitably nutritious and you mulch with organic matter. Replenish the mulch around your weeping willow each spring to maintain fertility. Protection It is important to keep the area around a young weeping willow tree free from competing weeds and grass for the first couple of growing seasons. However, as when planting anything else in your garden, you should think holistically and consider the other plants which could be placed close by to form guilds of companion plants that will help keep your willow tree healthy and create a resilient ecosystem. If you live in an area with rabbits or deer, using a tree guard for the first couple of years after planting will be a good idea. Pruning Do not prune a young weeping willow for its first year. After this, you can prune damaged or diseased branches at any time of the year – to encourage a clear stem, prune lower branches off the lower portion of the main trunk in the winter months, during the dormant period. Weeping willows fall into RHS pruning group 1. They naturally form a well-balanced framework and need little pruning, if any at all. However, they can also be hard pruned to rejuvenate an older specimen, or pollarded if desired. “Many of the smaller weeping willows are top-grafted, meaning a piece of the weeping variety is effectively biologically welded to a more upright rootstock tree at a height of around 1m to allow it to cascade,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “For this reason, the hard pruning of weeping willows is generally best avoided and pruning below the graft level will mean you ultimately end up with a different tree!” Weeping willows are beautiful and useful trees – if you have a suitable spot in your garden, there may be a weeping willow that is right for you.
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The Pros And Cons Of Roma 'Plum' Tomatoes - With Plant Care And Harvesting Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Roma Tomato Pros Roma Tomato Cons How To Grow Roma Tomatoes Roma Tomato Plant Care Harvesting References Roma tomatoes are a popular paste tomato variety. If you like to make tomato sauces and tomato paste then Roma tomatoes are a good option to consider. “I’ve grown Roma tomatoes for the first time this year and in a wet summer where the risk of blight and mildew is high, they have been unaffected – a testament to their disease resistance,” shares Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. Overview Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum ‘Roma’ Common Name(s) Roma Tomatoes, Plum Tomatoes Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Saw-like, jagged leaves with vines Flowers Yellow When To Sow Indoors January, February, March, April, May Plant Out June Fruiting Months June, July, August, September, October Roma tomatoes, in spite of the name, were not created in Rome, or even in Italy. They were actually first developed in the US, by the USDA Agricultural Research Service in 1955.1 The plant was created by breeding the ‘San Marzano’ heirloom tomato from Italy with a variety called ‘Pan American’. Since 1955, plant breeders have selectively bred Roma tomatoes to improve their resistance to a range of common diseases even further. Roma tomato plants produce oval, egg-shaped fruits, around 7-8cm long, which are red when they are fully ripe. They have a lower water content and fewer seeds than most tomato varieties – and are considered to be excellent for making sauces, pastes, soups and for canning. Roma Tomato Pros Open-pollinated variety (not a hybrid) so you can collect the seed. Resistance to fusarium and verticillium wilts. Fruits can mature in under three months. Since this is a semi-determinate variety, all mature at around the same time. Pruning and cordoning is not typically required. High yields of fruit can be produced on each plant in optimal conditions. Slightly green, nearly ripe fruits can continue to ripen after harvest. Great texture and flavour for sauces and pastes. Fruits hold up well when canning, bottling or preserving. Roma Tomato Cons This variety is easy to buy in supermarkets. You might like to consider choosing an heirloom variety instead – something which you could not get your hands on so easily. Though it is open-pollinated, this is not usually considered to be an heirloom tomato. Roma tomatoes, and many other plum tomato varieties, may not fruit as prolifically or perform as well in a cooler climate. Gardeners in the UK may be better opting for more cold-tolerant cooking tomato varieties. Some interesting options to consider for cooler regions of the UK which may perform better include: ‘Orange Banana’ ‘Purple Ukraine’ ‘Black Plum’ ‘Kibit’s Ukrainian’ ‘Amish Paste’ How To Grow Roma Tomatoes Roma tomatoes can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel across most of the UK, and outdoors in warmer and sheltered areas. Like other tomatoes, Roma tomatoes like a location which is as warm and sunny as possible. They need a moist yet free-draining, fertile soil or growing medium and can be grown in containers or in the ground. Roma tomatoes do not need an extensive cordon system, but will perform best when staked or caged to keep them supported and up off the ground. Sowing As with other tomatoes, it is best to sow Roma tomatoes as early as possible. Since we have a relatively short growing season here in the UK, it is best to sow seeds indoors in late winter or early spring. Indoors-grown plants are then potted up and hardened off before they are planted out into their final growing positions once the weather has reliably warmed – usually towards the end of May or in June. Planting Out When potting up or planting out your Roma tomatoes, bury each plant a little deeper in the soil or growing medium. This encourages new roots to form from the now-buried stem, which makes for healthier and bitter root systems which will be more resilient and produce better yields. On planting, mulch well around the plants with good-quality compost or well-rotted manure. You can also then add a mulch of comfrey leaves, or the leaves of other dynamic accumulator plants which are rich in potassium and other nutrients. Adding eggshells to your mulch can also help reduce issues with blossom end rot. Remember to think about including companion plants (like basil, garlic and marigolds, for example) around your Roma tomatoes to aid in pest control in your organic garden. Roma Tomato Plant Care Watering Make sure that you water consistently throughout the growing season. Water deeply and not little and often to encourage strong and healthy roots. Adjust watering depending on the temperatures and conditions and remember to water at the base of the plants. Try not to wet the foliage as this makes it more likely for diseases to take hold and may cause issues like sun-scald. Feeding Fertilising tomato plants is essential for the best results. But you most definitely do not have to use synthetic fertilisers, which can do more harm than good. As well as mulching around your Roma tomatoes, you should also feed with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed every couple of weeks once the flowers and then the fruits form. If your tomato plants are not setting fruit, read this guide for some solutions. Harvesting As mentioned above, Roma tomatoes are usually ready to harvest within three months. Roma tomatoes are ready to pick once the fruits reach around 7-8cm in length, and are bright red all over. If you are left with some tomatoes which are still slightly green at the end of the growing season, these should ripen up indoors, though tomatoes always taste best when ripened on the vine. There are a number of steps that you can take to encourage your green tomatoes to ripen more quickly: You should consider adding extra protection to raise temperatures. Reduce then stop watering towards the end of the season. Remove undeveloped flowers and fruits to focus the plants on ripening those fruits already nearing maturity. And place ripe fruits under the plants which release ethylene gas which ripens tomatoes more quickly. You can also give plants a ‘shock’ by tugging to disturb their roots. This spurs the plant to produce viable seeds as quickly as possible. Once you have harvested your Roma tomatoes, you can use them up right away in sauces, salsas, soups, ketchups, pastes and a range of other recipes. You can also preserve them for later use using a range of recipes for a water canner. Roma tomatoes might not be the most interesting or original tomato variety to grow in your garden, but there is good reason for their popularity in gardens and in a commercial setting. So provided you can offer the right temperatures and conditions for optimal growth, this could be a good tomato variety to consider. References 1. ARS in Your Pizza. (n.d.). U.S. Department of Agriculture: Agricultural Research Service. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://aglab.ars.usda.gov/explore-learn/ars-in-your-pizza/
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