Growing
Did You Know 'Dwarf' Buddleja Are Now Available? They're Perfect For Small Gardens
IN THIS GUIDE Overview What Is Dwarf Buddleja? Dwarf Buddleja Cultivars Why Grow Dwarf Buddleja? Dwarf Buddleja Alternatives How To Grow Dwarf Buddleja Dwarf Buddleja Care References Buddleja is a wildlife-friendly plant that can thrive in many settings and a dwarf option could be perfect for small spaces. A native of China, Buddleja davidii is now an extremely popular garden plant.1 Its appeal for butterflies means that it is sometimes referred to as ‘Butterfly Bush’. But care should be taken over planting and caring for Buddleja, or ‘Buddleia’, since it is a non-native plant and some species can become invasive in some areas.2 If you grow a non-sterile Buddlejia davidii in your garden, it is always best not to let it go to seed – cut back after flowering to prevent its spread. Overview Botanical Name Buddleia davidii: Dwarf cultivars Common Name(s) Dwarf Buddleia, Dwarf Butterfly Bush Plant Type Shrub Native Area China Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Serrated edges and dark leaves Flowers Long taped clusters in various hues When To Sow March, April, May, September, October, November Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune March, April Buddleia davidii can spread its seed far and wide if given the chance. Even when not allowed to go to seed, Buddleia is not always a good choice for smaller gardens. Most grow into huge, towering plants, over 2m tall, which means that they are not always the best choice for small spaces. However, there are now Dwarf Buddleja available, which could be a better choice for small gardens. What Is Dwarf Buddleja? Dwarf buddleias are cultivars of Buddleja davidii, many of which grow to only around 60-90cm tall. Since they are restricted in size, they can be a much better choice for small spaces, or for container cultivation. The good news is that there are several series of Dwarf Buddleja which have also been developed to be sterile, so they cannot set seed and become invasive. “Dwarf Buddleja could be used in the garden like a herbaceous perennial and planted in a mixed border, combining different flower colours,” says Peter Lickorish, a Professional Gardener who also lectures in horticulture. “When other herbaceous perennials die down, low domes of dwarf buddlejas will add height and structure, with many retaining some of their silvery-green foliage over winter.” Dwarf Buddleja Cultivars ‘Buzz Magenta’ Dwarf Buddlejas to consider are: B. davidii ‘Buzz Magenta’ B. davidii ‘Buzz Ivory’ B. davidii ‘Buzz Candy Pink’ B. davidii ‘Buzz Indigo’ B. davidii ‘Buzz Sky Blue’ B. davidii ‘Buzz Velvet’ B. ‘Blue Chip’ B. ‘White Chip’ B. ‘Lilac Chip’ B. Flutterby Petite Dark Pink B. Flutterby Petite Blue Heaven B. Flutterby Petite Snow White B. Flutterby Petite Tutti Fruitti B. Flutterby Flow Lavender The above options are sterile, and so will not cause the problems potentially caused by planting other Buddleia davidii in your garden. Why Grow Dwarf Buddleja? Dwarf Buddleja could be a good choice for your garden. It is overall a wildlife-friendly option and certainly will attract butterflies and other insects to your garden – and when you choose a sterile cultivar you need not worry about invasiveness. However, before you proceed with a Dwarf Buddleia, it is certainly worth considering other alternatives, which can also do a great job of attracting butterflies and other wildlife to your garden. Downsides While Buddleja is a great source of nectar for adult butterflies and other insects, as a non-native plant it has little or no value for the larvae of native butterflies and moths.3 This tradeoff means that opinions are mixed as to its growth in UK gardens. If you want to do as much as you can for native wildlife, you should also consider planting plenty of native plants. Dwarf Buddleja Alternatives In the UK and Europe, some native shrubs and small trees are far better for a truly butterfly-friendly garden, because they provide for Lepidoptera throughout their lifecycle and not just for nectar. Guelder rose You can consider, for example: Blackberries Buckthorns Currants Dogwoods Elder Gorse Hawthorn Native Roses Native Viburnums Willows If you want to aid butterflies and attract them to your garden, you should also plant fruit trees (remember that there are dwarf fruit trees that you can grow in containers). Fallen fruits are a food source for butterflies, and trees often also give moth and butterfly species shelter and a place to see out the winter.4 Place perennial herbs and nectar-rich perennials in pots nearby, or in guilds around these trees – many herbs and flowers are great for attracting butterflies and other beneficial insects to your garden. You should also consider growing climbers like ivy and honeysuckle against a wall or fence. These can provide nectar when there is not much around, and serve as a place for butterflies to lay their eggs. If you would like to consider other flowering shrubs for your small garden or a patio container garden, there are also other non-native options to consider. Caryopteris Some other good nectar sources for adult butterflies include: Caryopteris x clandonensis Deutzia Hebes Lilac Weigela How To Grow Dwarf Buddleja If you do decide that you would like to plant a dwarf Buddleja, then remember that where you place your new plant (whether in the ground or in a container) is important. Buddleia needs full sun, and a south-facing or west-facing aspect is ideal. The plant is H6 hardy however, and can cope with a wide range of different growing conditions. Soil Requirements If growing in the ground, remember that your plant will prefer a chalk, loam or sandy soil, and any pH is fine. Dwarf buddleja may struggle a little in heavy clay – although this plant does like some moisture, it generally prefers well-drained conditions. One interesting option to consider could involve growing dwarf buddleia as a low-growing hedge, either along a border of your property or between different garden ‘rooms’. Container Growing Of course, these are also great for growing in reasonably large patio pots. When growing in containers, choosing a free-draining growing medium, and ensuring that the container drains freely, is key. “They do, however, still require generous watering to prevent large leaves from wilting,” shares Peter. While you can get away with a smaller pot initially, for plants that typically come in 2-3 litre containers, ultimately, a Dwarf Buddleja will require a container that is around 60cm wide. It is best to fill your container with a peat-free multipurpose potting compost with added John Innes (or a homemade equivalent). Planting Dwarf Buddleja You should find it easy to source a Dwarf Buddleja from a garden centre online or in your local area. If someone has a buddleia that you admire, you may also be able to propagate it to make a new plant by taking semi-ripe cuttings in summer. When planting dwarf buddleia, place the plant in a hole in the soil or in a container at the same level that they were at in their previous pot. This can be done at any time, but spring or autumn is generally best, to reduce the shock of transplantation. Dwarf Buddleja Care Dwarf buddleja is generally very easy to care for and even in containers is pretty low maintenance and a trouble-free shrub, but there are a few things to remember: Watering Remember that Buddleia like free-draining conditions, and do not like waterlogging for any length of time. Plants grown in the ground should be watered for the first 18 months or so during establishment, but should not require any watering after that except during prolonged periods of drought. Container plants will need to be watered more frequently than those growing in the ground. Water when the growing medium dries out during dry periods. Remember, whether growing in the ground or in containers, a layer of organic mulch will help to retain moisture. Feeding Feed your container-grown Buddleia in spring with an organic, high-potassium feed to encourage good-quality blooms. If growing in containers, you should also use a potash-rich organic liquid feed like comfrey tea when watering over the summer months. Plants grown in fertile soil should only need an annual mulch of organic matter, and will not need additional feeding. Deadheading When flowers on your Buddleia begin to fade over the summer, deadhead them to encourage new smaller blooms to form. At the end of the season, leave the faded flower heads in place (when growing sterile varieties) to give more cover for wildlife over the winter months. Pruning Like other types of Buddleja, Dwarf Buddleja should be pruned back hard over the first couple of years to a low framework (around 20-30cm above the ground or surface of the growing medium) in the spring. It is best to prune in March or April, just as the first new growth is starting to show. After around 2 years, prune back to leave around two buds on the growth of the previous year. You should also make sure that you also remove any dead, damaged or diseased stems – be sure to mulch around your shrubs with organic matter and feed well after this spring pruning. See more buddleja pruning tips in this guide. Repotting If you are growing your Dwarf Buddleja in a container, it should typically be repotted every couple of years. Dwarf Buddleja will typically be relatively trouble-free, and you should find that if you do choose one, and take care of it correctly, it will grace your garden for many years to come. Just remember that if butterfly attraction is high on your list, the ‘butterfly bush’ is not actually the best plant to choose in the UK. References 1. Ebeling, S., & Tallent-Halsell, N. (2009). Buddleja davidii (butterfly bush). CABI Compendium, CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.10314 2. Invasive Shrubs to be Aware of in Your Garden. (n.d.). The RSPB. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/advice/gardening-for-wildlife/plants-for-wildlife/shrubs-for-gardens/invasive-shrubs/ 3. Position statement on Buddleia and its planting in the UK. (n.d.). Butterfly Conservation. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://butterfly-conservation.org/sites/default/files/1.bc-position-statement-on-buddleia-updated-2015.pdf 4. 10 ways to help butterflies and moths this autumn. (n.d.). Butterfly Conservation. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://butterfly-conservation.org/news-and-blog/10-ways-to-help-butterflies-and-moths-this-autumn
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Growing Valerian: Useful For Filling Space And Adding Structure To Perennial Borders
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Valerian? Where To Grow Valerian Companion Planting How To Grow Valerian Plant Care Harvesting Valerian Root References Common Valerian can be a great perennial to grow in a UK garden. Common Valerian is a herbaceous perennial native to Eurasia.1 It forms upright plants around 1.5m tall, and bears round clusters of small white or pink flowers in summer. Overview Botanical Name Valeriana officinalis Common Name(s) Valerian, St George’s Herb, All-Heal, Cat’s Valerian Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial Native Area Eurasia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small white or pink flowers When To Sow Indoors March Plant Out April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune February, March Deadheading Months July, August This plant is also known as ‘All-Heal’, ‘St. George’s Herb’ and ‘Cat’s Valerian’ – as well as by a range of other local names. This plant should not be confused with another wildflower and garden plant, called Red Valerian. While this can also be a useful garden plant, it is not the subject of this article. Why Grow Valerian? Valerian can be useful to add height and structure in perennial garden borders. It can also be useful for filling space, since it can self-seed readily if given the chance in the right conditions. Valerian is an attractive plant – but it is not just attractive to us – it also attracts beneficial wildlife to your garden. It is also worth noting that cats are attracted to Valerian (in much the same way as they are to catnip) so it can be a good idea to plant this in a certain area to keep cats out of other productive areas of your garden where you do not want them to be. Another reason that Valerian can be a useful companion plant is that it is a pretty good dynamic accumulator.2 The leaves of the plant are rich in phosphorus, in addition to other plant nutrients.3 They can be added to your compost heap, where they can aid microbial life and speed decomposition. In the same way as you might use comfrey tea, the plant can also be chopped and dropped as a mulch around plants which will benefit, or used to make an excellent liquid plant feed by simply adding the plant material to water. The thick tap roots of valerian can also help to break up compacted soil and improve drainage in heavier soils. Where To Grow Valerian Common valerian is H4 hardy, and can grow well in full sun or in partial or dappled shade. It will thrive in most typical garden soil types, though it prefers reasonably moist conditions. It is unfussy with regard to soil pH. Bearing these factors in mind, it can be a good choice for many gardens across the UK. Valerian can work well to provide height towards the back of a perennial border. It can work particularly well in more informal planting schemes, and wild, wildlife gardens. Since it likes moist conditions, it can be a good choice for the edge of a pond or stream in your garden. Since valerian attracts beneficial wildlife, including bees, butterflies and hoverflies, and thrives in dappled shade, it can also work well in a woodland garden, fruit tree, fruit bush or cane fruit guild, or forest garden design. It will be a good companion plant for fruiting trees and plants. One thing to note, however, is that you may not wish to grow valerian directly adjacent to a seating area, or a window or door of your home, since the smell of the flowers can be rather unpleasant up close. Companion Planting To maximise production in an orchard or garden, valerian is an excellent choice for guilds and companion planting. By drawing in pollinators and other beneficial insects, it can help to keep fruiting plants productive and healthy. Valerian will grow well alongside other herbs which can thrive in light, dappled shade, such as Alexanders, Angelica, Mints and Comfrey, for example. And these are all also useful in a guild or forest garden design. Good companions for valerian in a cottage garden scheme include many traditional cottage garden plants, such as Roses, Achillea, Daisies, Foxgloves, Hollyhocks, Geums and Hardy Geraniums, for example. Since valerian can also grow in full sun in moist conditions, it can also work well alongside other many other useful culinary herbs, perhaps around the edges of a vegetable garden, or in a dedicated herb garden area. How To Grow Valerian Valerian seeds can be sown in spring. However, you can also choose another means of propagation – you can take softwood cuttings in spring. You can also, at the same time of year or in autumn, divide existing Valerian clumps to form new plants. As a hardy plant, Valerian can be planted out in spring or in autumn. If you purchase a plant, this can also be planted out over the summer, though it is best to wait until the shoulder seasons to reduce transplantation stress. If you do plant out in summer, make sure that you keep your plants well-watered, especially during hot and dry periods. Plant Care Once the plants are established, Valerian is a great low-maintenance plant; it will require little care. Watering Mostly, this will just involve watering if the weather is dry. Remember, these are plants that like moist conditions. Cutting Back The only other thing to think about when it comes to Valerian care is cutting back. If you do not want your Valerian to self-seed freely then you should be sure to cut off faded flowers before the seeds are able to form. “Editing self-sown plants is a real skill that you need to learn if you like the dynamism that comes with a naturalistic style of planting,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Identifying seedlings is key to this way of gardening as removing seedlings avoids thickets of unwanted self-sown ‘weeds’.” However, in a wildlife-friendly garden, it can be a good idea to allow dead herbaceous perennial foliage to remain in place over the winter months before cutting back in the spring. Harvesting Valerian Root In late autumn, dig up the whole of the root. Wash the root thoroughly, removing the little fibrous roots from around the outside – the root can be used fresh or dried. To dry the root, place it undercover in an airy space. An outbuilding or shed is ideal, and you will likely not want to dry the root in your home, as, like the flowers (perhaps even worse) it gives off an unpleasant smell. Another thing to note is that unfortunately, the dried root can attract rats, as well as cats – so this is definitely something to bear in mind. References 1. Valerian officinalis, Common Valerian: identification, distribution, habitat. (n.d.). First Nature. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.first-nature.com/flowers/valeriana-officinalis.php 2. Valeriana officinalis Valerian, Garden valerian. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Valeriana+officinalis 3. Valerian. (n.d.). Research and Extension: A Grower’s Guide. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf2632.pdf
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'Hesperantha Are So Often Overlooked' - Here's How (And Why) To Grow Kaffir Lily
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Hesperantha Where To Plant How To Plant Watering Feeding Propagating Hesperantha References Hesperantha is possibly one of the best autumn flowering plants that can be grown here in the United Kingdom. Originating from Africa, it is a sun-loving plant which flowers from the end of summer until the first frosts, providing a wonderful late injection of colour into the garden. Previously botanically named as Schizostylis, it is also known as the ‘Crimson Flag’ or ‘Kaffir Lily’. It is a perennial plant (although pretty much evergreen) and is part of the Iridaceae family, along with irises.1 Overview Botanical Name Hesperantha coccinea Common Name(s) Crimson Flag, Kaffir Lily, Schizostylis Plant Type Perennial Native Area Southern and eastern Africa Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen or semi-evergreen Flowers Often scarlet or pink flowers When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months August, September Deadheading Months August, September The name Hesperantha derives from the Greek words hesperos and anthos and combined together simply translates as evening flower.2 Hesperantha are a hardy rhizomatous perennial with bright green sword-like leaves and elegant flowers. Schizostylis coccinea Rhizomes are essentially plant stems that grow horizontally under the soil with roots coming out from its nodes and as a perennial, they will come back each year. The flowers, displayed on stems above the foliage, are available in classic whites, soft pinks or bright reds and can flower for months on end from September into the autumn. “Hesperantha are so often overlooked and I fail to see why,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “I don’t know many plants which will flower as reliably in November in my garden – especially ones which also have some foliage throughout the year and are generally trouble-free.” Common Varieties Many Hesperantha varieties are widely available here in the United Kingdom. However, be warned – they tend to fly off the garden centre or online nursery shelves, especially when they’re in flower and not much else is. H. coccinea f. Alba Produces rather elegant pure white flowers and grows to H0.5m x W0.4m. H. coccinea ‘Major’ AGM For a bright and vivid red – will not disappoint and will liven up any container or border during the autumn and grow to an eventual H0.6m x W0.6m. ‘Major‘ has been given the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the Royal Horticultural Society, indicating that it performs reliably well in the garden. All varieties are fairly vigorous and well adapted to our UK climate, especially in our milder regions and will bloom until the first frosts, which in some areas could be as late as December. Well suited to growing in either a border or container, it is also a great choice as a cut flower due to its straight stems, long flowering season and long vase life. How To Grow Hesperantha Hesperantha are relatively easy to grow and are great value for money, as being perennial, they will keep coming back year after year and are easy to propagate – producing plants for free. Best planted in spring as the soil is beginning to warm up and new growth appears, hesperantha prefer relatively fertile soil and room for their rhizomes to spread. With a hardiness rating of H4, they’re able to withstand temperatures down to -10C and will survive most UK winters without protection, in all but the coldest areas. In really harsh winters or if grown in frost pockets, plants can be protected with cloches, fleece or a generous mulch of straw. Plants may also be more susceptible to winter cold in pots, where their roots are above ground level. Where To Plant Hesperantha produces delicate and elegant flowers on stems protruding above their slender foliage and look great in an informal cottage, coastal or courtyard garden scheme. Given their African heritage, it is no surprise that they are happiest in warm and sunny spot, a south-facing situation is ideal. However, if you do not have a south-facing space don’t worry as they can tolerate a small amount of shade. When it comes to soils, they are fairly tolerant and will cope with any chalk, clay, sand or loam soil as long as it is kept moist. Despite this, they do not like a harsh cold wind, so a sheltered spot is necessary. As a clump-forming perennial, they look equally good in a border or a pot. The benefit if grown in a pot or container is that they can be moved under cover or to an unheated greenhouse during the coldest months, which may be preferable if you live in an exposed spot or frost pocket. How To Plant Hesperantha are most readily available as potted-up plants, which can be planted out at the same depth they were in their original pot. Online suppliers may offer rhizomes for sale, which can be cheaper but are not potted up. On arrival, the rhizomes need to be soaked in water for 30 minutes and then planted out or into pots with the shoots facing up, 10cm deep. If planting straight out into a border, then a minimum spacing of 20cm is recommended. Water well after planting and if growing from rhizomes try and be patient, as they may well take up to a year to establish before flowering. Hesperantha can be pretty much left to their own devices as they require little care over the year, apart from deadheading to extend flowering and removing the old tatty foliage and stems during winter. Watering However, during the hottest summer months it is important to water the plants regularly, as they prefer moist soil – which is not all that surprising since their natural habitats include African river banks and water meadows. Feeding Feeding is not strictly necessary, but a general-purpose fertiliser applied in spring wouldn’t go a miss, along with a good mulch of organic matter in winter. Thankfully hesperantha seem to be left alone by most slugs and snails and do not suffer too badly from other pests or diseases. They also appear to be rabbit resistant, a serious bonus for those gardening out in the countryside. Propagating Hesperantha As a vigorous plant, hesperantha can become congested over time and it is recommended to lift and divide plants every 2–3 years. Dividing Division is an easy way of producing new plants and even better – they are free. It is best done in spring when the soil has warmed up and new growth is appearing, but care should be taken, as Peter explains: “The main ways that you can let them down is by being too greedy with divisions. “I find the root disturbance of dividing them can prevent them flowering for a year.” Plants can be lifted and gently separated into smaller clumps, with 5–6 shoots on each. These can then be replanted elsewhere in the garden, potted up and grown on or given to family and friends. Growing From Seed Hesperantha can also be grown from seed, although when considering how long it takes and the time involved, it is no wonder that dividing is the preferred and easier option. To grow from seed, whether saved and stored or bought, it is best to sow in early spring in a moist and free-draining compost mix and covered lightly with vermiculite. Germination requires a temperature of 15°C and can take up to three months and so requires a lot of patience. H. coccinea ‘Marietta’ Once germinated, seedlings can be thinned, but left in place until the following year when they can be potted on and planted out. They do not like root disturbance, so regular repotting is best avoided. Hesperantha really are a great plant to grow in UK gardens – not only are they fairly hardy and reliable, but they require very little looking after and will provide months of stylish and graceful flowers to brighten up any garden during the autumn. References 1. Hesperantha. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:20362-1 2. Hesperantha coccinea. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hesperantha-coccinea/
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Growing And Harvesting Sweetcorn In The Garden - 'Only Grow One Variety Each Year'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Sweetcorn Ongoing Plant Care Harvesting Common Problems References Sweet corn is a yellow vegetable, and the word refers both to the cob, and the kernels that grow on it. Dig a little below the surface-level and the properties of sweet corn are actually quite interesting. This crop is a variety of grain maize, known for its particularly high sugar content arising from a natural genetic mutation that encourages the production of more sugar.1 This means that humans have evolved to pick corn before it reaches full maturity and eat it as a vegetable, rather than letting it mature into a grain.2 “Sweetcorn is a big favourite of mine when it comes to vegetables because it tastes so good fresh from the garden,” says Garden Writer Janice Shipp. Overview Botanical Name Zea mays Common Name(s) Corn Plant Type Vegetable / Annual Native Area Americas Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual blade-shaped leaves Flowers Tassels When To Sow Indoors April, May Plant Out June, July Harvesting Months July, August, September, October A grilled corn on the cob with a crack of salt and a coating of melted butter is amongst the most satisfying and enjoyable dishes we can think of. Using a corn you’ve grown yourself, with its especially sweet and delicious flavour, takes the dish to another level. “One of my favourite things I have growing right now is sweetcorn,” shares Jenny Thompson, Allotment Grower. “I am pretty good at growing it too! “However, I only grow one variety each year, as sweetcorns are wind pollinated and if you have different varieties near each other, they are likely to cross-pollinate and produce something different to what you were expecting.” Corn’s tall and distinctive aesthetic makes an attractive addition to your garden, and the crop offers flexibility in the number of varieties available. Taking time to choose the right variety lets you grow corn whose flavour profile best aligns with your palette. “Sweet corns are fascinating plants and they can do some seemingly odd things, but these have perfectly simple explanations,” shares Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Firstly, roots are likely to jut out from above ground, near the base of the plant. It is a widely accepted view that these prop roots are there to provide additional support to tall plants as braces against windy conditions. “Also, sweetcorn cobs may sometimes appear gappy, like a toddler’s set of teeth. “This is a sign that there is poor pollination, so consider growing more plants in a grid layout next year.” How To Grow Sweetcorn In the sections below we provide step-by-step information on how to grow your own bumper crop of sweet corn. While you may be used to seeing fields upon fields of corn growing, it’s also possible to grow a few plants in your garden – so don’t be put off if you don’t have much space! Where To Grow Before planting your corn, find a good spot and enrich the soil with compost or other organic matter. Dig this through the soil well to maximise the nutrients available to the corn, potentially even adding a fertiliser that’s high in potassium. Corn grows best in a spot that gets plenty of sunshine, and while they require wind to assist with pollination, try to choose somewhere that’s sheltered from the worst of the elements. You want your corns exposed to a gentle and regular breeze rather than strong winds that can build up speed in open spots. “I plant my cobs in grid formation to aid the chance of good pollination but I don’t leave pollination to chance,” says Jenny. “Once the tassel on the top of the plant appears, I pick one off and tickle all the silks with it, thereby transferring pollen to where it needs to be. “Incredibly, each individual silk is attached to one individual kernel and each silk must receive a grain of pollen for that kernel to be fertilised. “Ever peeled back a home-grown cob only to find some plump yellow kernels and some gnarly pale-looking ones? The gnarly ones didn’t get pollinated, so trust me, tassel tickling is the way to go.” If you’re growing squash you can also grow your sweet corn amongst it, as the two plants complement each other well by taking different things from the soil. Native American farmers were renowned for growing ‘three sisters’, which is corn, squash, and beans grown in a symbiotic arrangement.3 If you’re feeling particularly adventurous you could try out this method! Sowing For best results, sow your sweet corn seeds into pots in a greenhouse or a cold frame or similar. Doing so gives you a head start when compared to sowing directly outdoors, as you can shelter the seedlings from harsher temperatures. If you decide to sow this way you can begin growing your corn around a month before the last frost! “This will usually be from early April, but it is worth considering in colder springs that they will need around 18°C to germinate,” adds Peter. Pop some soil into small containers, then push seeds an inch down below the surface. Corn is not fussy with soil types: any potting compost should do the trick. Sow two seeds beside each other, then remove the weaker seedling before the next step. Planting Out Once your corns are about six inches high, they’re strong enough to make the transition outdoors. Ideally you’d harden them off before planting them out, and doing this is easy. Just leave the plants outside for short periods of time in the week before you plan to plant them, with the periods gradually getting longer. If you’ve got a cold frame this is the perfect space for hardening off corn. While many crops grow best in rows, we recommend planting out corn in blocks using a grid layout, as this gives it the best chance at pollination. Corn is pollinated by wind, and placement in a block increases the spores’ chance to spread. If your crops aren’t able to pollinate enough they’ll still grow, but you’ll have fewer cobs. Look to plant your corns about 18 inches from each other in all directions. To plant, remove from the pot, tussle the roots to loosen everything up, then pop into individual holes. Once a corn is in its hole, firm up the soil around the base of each plant to keep it secure. Ongoing Plant Care Fertilising As well as preparing the soil before planting your corn, we advise on mulching the soil at the base of your plant with garden compost while growing. This will help to retain moisture and to reduce weed coverage. “Doing this with fresh garden compost, at the end of a damp spell of weather, is particularly effective,” says Peter. Watering In dry weather make sure to water your corn plants frequently. This is especially important when the plants are flowering, as this is when they’re at their thirstiest. Weeding Corn is just as prone to weeds as any other plant, although hopefully mulching should help to reduce their number. If you use a hoe to help with your weeding, go carefully. Corn has shallow roots and hoeing too aggressively can damage the crop along with the weeds. Harvesting Corn is ready for harvesting when its tassels turn brown and darken. This usually occurs a few weeks after they initially appear. The physical act of harvesting is quite easy: either pull or twist the corn away from the stem. If pulling isn’t working, a gentle twist should help. To test whether your corn is ready, there’s a test you can do before removing the cob from the plant: Simply peel back part of the sheath and press a fingernail into a kernel. If the liquid inside is creamy in colour, the corn is ready to go. If the liquid is watery it’s not quite ready yet. And if there’s no liquid you’ve left it too late! Once harvested, remove the sheaths from your cobs and cook as soon as possible. Many gardeners swear that the best taste is achieved by cooking almost instantly after harvest. If you’re not planning to eat it immediately however, we recommend refrigerating before removing the sheaths. “It is also important not to prune the tops of sweetcorn plants, as this is where the male flowers form, which pollinate the female flowers lower down, to form cobs,” says Peter. Common Problems Sadly, corn is very appealing to all manner of garden pests including mice, birds, and creepy crawlies. Here’s how to deal with some of these pesky visitors: Mice “To keep mice off of seeds until they’ve germinated, consider using a mesh, such as that used to bag oranges,” says Peter. “This can form a sock around the pot to keep hungry mammals at bay.” Birds While you don’t want to catch birds in a mousetrap, you do want to deter them from eating your corns. The best way to stop these flying critters from ravaging your crop is to cover it with a material that lets in air and sunlight but keeps out beaks. Fleece or mesh are good bets. Slugs & Snails Whatever you’re growing, it’s likely you’ll have to contend with these menaces. There are many ways to deter them including sacrificial crops designed to distract them and other less savoury solutions! We hope that this guide has been helpful in showing you just how easy corn is to grow, and we hope that you’ll soon be enjoying the fruits of your industry. References 1. Sweet corn growing. (n.d.). NSW Government. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/vegetables/commodity-growing-guides/sweet-corn 2. Is corn a grain or a vegetable? (n.d.). AskUSDA. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://ask.usda.gov/s/article/Is-corn-a-grain-or-a-vegetable 3. The Three Sisters of Indigenous American Agriculture. (n.d.). National Agricultural Library. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.nal.usda.gov/collections/stories/three-sisters
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Growing Medlar: An Unusual Choice As A Fruit Tree, But It Can Be A Rewarding Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Medlar? How To Grow Medlar Medlar Care Common Problems References It must be said that this plant is fairly unusual. It’s a tree that can also be grown as a shrub, and it bears an edible fruit, but here’s the thing: the vast majority of people in the UK won’t have tried – or even heard – of it! However, Mespilus germanica, more commonly known as medlar, is a rewarding and interesting plant to grow. We’ll hold off from saying the fruit is delicious because it’s something of an acquired taste, but it is a new and potentially intriguing flavour. Overview Botanical Name Mespilus germanica Common Name(s) Common Medlar, Dutch Medlar Plant Type Fruit Tree / Shrub Native Area Europe, Middle East Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous, long leaves Flowers White blossom in spring When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Harvesting Months November, December When To Prune February, March Medlar, or Mespilus germanica, is an ancient fruit that bears some resemblance to pomegranate, and tastes to some a little like quince. The fruits are brown or yellow, and usually measure between 2.5-5cm. Each fruit has a cluster of five ‘petals’ around its top, lending them a distinct aesthetic when compared to other common garden fruits. As we mentioned, medlar can grow as a tree or as a shrub. Trees of the original species Mespilus germanica will grow up to eight metres; grafted trees and shrubs will clock in a fair bit smaller. The tree is known for growing in a lopsided way, to the point that it can be pulled down by its own weight. Although it may not be relevant for the first few years, bear in mind that you may need to stake your tree to support it in its later years or carry out formative pruning as the tree grows to help prevent too much growth on one side. Why Grow Medlar? The fruits are edible, as we’ve said, but they have a fairly unusual taste. If you’ve ever tried quince it’s in that ballpark, but not quite the same. Other people say it evokes apple sauce flavours, but opinions on the exact nature of the taste (and its appeal!) vary wildly. The main reason we recommend medlar is novelty – it’s something you won’t find in supermarkets or even grocery stalls at markets. Most people won’t have tried it, making it a good conversation starter and point of interest in your garden. Given the differing opinions on the flavour, you may not be convinced to grow medlar based on the eating opportunities alone. And if that’s the case, you’re in luck because this is also an attractive ornamental plant that will provide something a little different for your outdoor space. How To Grow Medlar Sowing It’s possible and not too difficult to grow this plant from seed – sow in early spring and start in small pots. Ensure they have moist soil, and are kept in a dark, cool spot. Seeds will take around five weeks to germinate and should be hardened off before being planted out. “Bear in mind this will produce the original species tree Mespilus germanica which is likely to grow into a large tree up to 8m, so enough space needs to be allocated for it to grow,” adds Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. Planting Out You can buy medlar as a shrub if you’re not interested in growing it from seed. Plant this out any time between November and March, and use a stake to keep the fledgling tree supported for the first five years or so. Medlar can be grown in containers as well as in the ground – go for a big pot to give the plant ample space to grow. Again, plant out in November through March. Where To Grow Choose a spot with deep and fertile soil; drainage needs to be good; full sun is best for medlars but partial shade will work as well. It’s important to choose a spot that won’t be exposed to strong winds, as the leaves and floral bloom of medlar are both easily damaged. Medlar Care Fertilising Mulch the area at the base of the plant, and keep the soil fed well to ensure the plant is well nourished. Add a handful of high potassium fertiliser each spring, such as granular Sulphate of Potash, one handful for each metre of soil surface. Or, if growing on grass rather than just soil, use a handful and a half. Watering Medlar isn’t overly thirsty, except in dry spells. Be extra vigilant in the first four years of the plant’s life, making sure to keep it well watered during particularly dry patches in this period. Pruning To keep your medlar in prime condition you’ll need to remove weak and dead branches. Winter is the best time to prune, when the leaves have fallen. Depending on whether you’re growing as a tree or shrub, your priorities when pruning will be different. For a tree, your priority is establishing a balanced branch system to encourage efficient fruiting and to avoid problems later in the tree’s life. The method for pruning young fruit trees is actually quite involved (medlars are pruned in the same way as apple and pear trees) and because it won’t be relevant to everyone reading this piece we’ll link you to a great resource instead. If you’re growing a medlar tree and need advice on pruning it during the formative years, check out this great guide from the Royal Horticultural Society.1 Harvesting Bear in mind that it will take a few growing seasons to bear fruit: between three and five years. When your medlar is bearing fruit, October and November are the best times for harvest. You can leave fruit on the tree to ripen for a little longer, just watch out for frost as this will push them past their best. Pick your medlars when the fruit is rock hard, then let it ripen before eating. There’s a special name for this process which you may not have heard before: bletting. When bletting fruit, you’re letting it rot slightly before you eat it – this sounds a little grim but trust us – it’ll get you the best results!2 With medlar you eat the filling but not the seeds. Common Problems Medlar is prone to visitations from certain garden pests, but thankfully they’re not too difficult to keep in check. Here’s what you need to keep a lookout for: Winter Moth Caterpillars These creatures enjoy eating and generally damaging the leaves of your medlar, which can disrupt its ability to photosynthesize. Picking off the caterpillars should be enough to deter them, and keep a vigilant eye to make sure they don’t return. “If some damage is experienced from these caterpillars during a growing season, a grease band can be placed around the trunk in October until the spring to prevent the wingless female moths from travelling up the tree and laying eggs in the canopy,” says Roy. Birds Flying visitors are also prone to be attracted by the promise of fresh fruit. There are visual ways to deter birds: scarecrows and such. You can also use anti-bird gel, spikes, or ultrasonic repellers. Recordings of bird distress calls work well, too. You’ve got a few options and the most suitable will depend on your garden and your preferences. While it may take a little getting used to – and be forewarned the flavour isn’t for everyone – the potential rewards of growing this plant far outweigh the downsides. Even if you’re not a fan of the taste of medlar you’ve still got an attractive and distinctive plant growing in your garden. Whatever your reasons, we hope you enjoy growing medlar, and that you found this guide useful. References 1. Apple and pears: pruning newly planted trees. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/fruit/apples/pruning-new-trees 2. Gorvett, Z. (2021, March 25). The forgotten medieval fruit with a vulgar name. BBC Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20210325-the-strange-medieval-fruit-the-world-forgot
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Blueberry Shrubs: Nursery Owner Lorraine Summers Shares Her Tips For Tasty Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Them in Your Garden? How To Grow Blueberries Blueberry Plant Care References Blueberries are delicious fruits that can be grown in many gardens as long as you provide the acidic conditions they need to thrive. In this guide, we will take a closer look at these berries, why growing them could be a great idea and where and how to grow blueberries in your garden. We have collaborated with Lorraine Summers across our blueberry growing guides, the owner of Trehane Camellia and Blueberry Nursery, a specialist plant nursery based in Dorset. “Blueberry plants are easy to grow and they produce lovely, tasty berries,” Lorraine says when asked why she enjoys growing these tasty fruits. Blueberries grow on shrubs native to North America which are classified as Vaccinium (typically Vaccinium corymbosum or ‘highbush’ type).1 Overview Botanical Name Vaccinium Common Name(s) Blueberry Plant Type Fruit / Shrub Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Lobed, deciduous leaves Flowers Small white or pale-pink flowers When To Sow (Bare Root) January, February, March, November, December In Europe, related species, bilberries, are sometimes described as blueberries – and these also sit within the Vaccinium genus – usually Vaccinium myrtillus (often referred to as the ‘European Blueberry’).2 These are closely related to North American blueberries, but though they grow prolifically in the wild in acidic, nutrient-poor soils in temperate and subarctic regions, they are challenging to grow – and so are not usually grown commercially or cultivated in gardens. If you are thinking about growing blueberries in your garden – rather than foraging for bilberries in the wild – then you will be likely be looking for berry bushes which often come from hybrid cultivars, which were developed around the beginning of the 20th Century.3 The plants you can buy for your garden typically derive from these North American types. Why Grow Them in Your Garden? Though blueberries are not a native berry bush, they can still be a very useful and interesting addition to your home-growing repertoire. By growing these at home, you can take advantage of the useful properties of these berries without having to buy them. In the long term, this can save you money and reduce the amount of fruit you need to buy from the supermarket. How To Grow Blueberries Blueberries require a sunny location to fruit well. Though some can cope with dappled shade, most cultivars will require at least 6 hours of sunlight a day to achieve the best yields. They will also do best in a relatively sheltered spot, shielded from strong winds and colder temperatures. Maintaining Soil Acidity The most important thing to remember when it comes to growing blueberries relates to their soil requirements – blueberries are very fussy when it comes to soil pH. They are ericaceous and require an acidic pH of below 5.5 in order to avoid any issues.4 So unless you have acidic soil where you live, blueberries are best grown in containers or raised beds. If you have a heavy clay soil, you should also grow blueberries in a raised bed or container, since blueberries like light and moist (yet free-draining) soil. When To Plant Blueberries can be purchased as bare-root plants in the autumn and planted during the dormant period. You can also buy pot-grown blueberries from garden centres and nurseries all year round. For best results, these should generally be planted out or repotted in the spring or autumn. Avoid planting out during particularly hot and dry periods to reduce plant stress. Note that not all blueberries are self-fertile – even those varieties which are self-fertile will generally produce better yields if grown with at least one companion. You should usually, therefore, grow more than one blueberry plant, whether in pots or containers, raised beds, or in your acidic soil garden. Planting Out Once you have sourced your blueberries and chosen a site, prepared the soil if suitable, built raised beds or prepared containers with ericaceous compost – you should plant your blueberries at the same depth they were previously planted. Firm the soil or potting mix around your plants – take care not to create large air pockets but also make sure that you do not compact it too much. Water in well, then mulch around your blueberry bushes with a fresh mulch of pine needles, oak or beech leaf mould, conifer wood chip or bark chippings. Companion Plants Blueberries can of course be grown in pots on their own. However, you can achieve better yields if you companion plant blueberries with other acid-loving plants which can attract pollinators during the spring when the bushes are in blossom, and attract other beneficial insects which help keep pest numbers down. Some good choices are: Azaleas Camellias Spring flowering Irises Grape hyacinth (Muscari) Heathers (Erica) Lilac Lithodora diffusa Papaver cambricum (Welsh Poppy) Red campion (Silene dioica – can cope with a variety of soil pH conditions) Rhododendron Trillium erectum (Birthroot) Blueberries can also be grown alongside other berry bushes which like acidic conditions, like cranberries, for example. They also look good when planted alongside conifers, small Acers and/or holly. Note however that blueberries have shallow roots, so companions should be placed outside the area of their root zone – and should not have invasive roots. Around the sunny side of blueberries, you can also consider planting strawberries (which should be fine at a pH of around 5.5) and aromatic herbs like thyme and rosemary. These are good companion plants which should be able to tolerate acidic conditions. Blueberry Plant Care As long as you meet the acidic conditions required, blueberries are generally relatively easy and trouble-free to grow. Watering Remember that blueberries grown in containers will need to be watered more frequently than those grown in the ground. Tap water can reduce acidity, so be sure to always use rainwater when watering your blueberry plants. Protection Blueberries do not usually have a lot of pest issues. However, birds can be an issue, and may eat all the berries before you get the opportunity. If birds are a problem, you can consider protecting your blueberries with bird netting, or in fruit cages, polytunnels or other covering structures, as Colin Skelly, a Gardening Consultant and Horticulturist shares: “The birds in my garden seem to be adept and judging the ripeness of my blueberries, such that they will strip them before I get the chance to harvest them. “I have tried various bird-scaring ideas, such as CDs tied to a cane or fans that twirl in the wind, but the birds seem to scoff at these efforts. “The only viable option that I have found (not wanting to erect a permanent fruit cage) is to construct temporary netting around the bushes using canes.” Companion planting (ideally with plants which attract sap-suckers such as Nasturtium) should help you deal with aphids and other pests which can sometimes plague berry bushes. Companion plants should attract predatory insects to keep their numbers down. References 1. Vaccinium corymbosum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:261823-2 2. Bilberry. (n.d.-b). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/trees-and-shrubs/bilberry 3. History of Blueberries. (2021, August 4). US Highbush Blueberry Council. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://blueberry.org/about-blueberries/history-of-blueberries/ 4. Acidifying Soil for Blueberries and Ornamental Plants in the Yard and Garden. (2003, April). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/ec1560.pdf
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Growing Hazelnut Tree - 'If I Could Recommend Just One Native Tree, This Would Be It'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Hazelnuts? How To Grow Hazelnut Trees Hazelnut Tree Care Harvesting Hazelnuts References The hazelnut tree is one of the most useful and valuable nut-producing trees in the UK, and it can be a useful addition to many gardens. If I could recommend just one tree for UK gardeners looking for trees with edible and useful yields, then I think that the hazel tree would be it. Whether you are looking for a tree to use as an individual specimen tree, looking for a tree for coppicing, looking for lower canopy trees for forest gardens, or orchards – or even looking for trees to use in mixed native hedgerows – the hazel is an excellent choice. It is one of our favourite native trees – for a range of reasons. Overview Botanical Name Corylus avellana Common Name(s) Hazel(nut) Tree; Common Hazel Plant Type Tree / Hedging Native Area Europe & W. Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Dangling Catkins When To Sow January, February, March, November, December Harvesting Months September, October Pruning Months January, February, March, November, December Our native hazel tree is Corylus avellana; the Common Hazel is native to all of Europe and even some of West Asia – stretching all the way to the Caucusus.1 Common hazel It naturally grows in woods, especially on the slopes of hills, forming small trees up to around 6m high and 3m wide, though it can easily be kept much smaller when pruned and shaped as part of a wild hedgerow, or when used in a coppicing system. This is an extremely hardy tree that can cope well with a wide range of conditions here in the UK. Corylus maxima Corylus maxima is another type of hazelnut tree that may be of interest. It is a Hazel species with much in common with C. avellana – but generally produces more sizable nuts. If growing hazel for edible nuts, therefore, hybrid types C. avellana x C. maxima can be good choices. However, yields of both these edible nuts are usually better in more southern reaches of the British Isles than they are further north. Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ C. avellana ‘Contorta’ (corkscrew hazel) is another interesting option for your garden. ‘Contorta’ It is chosen for its ornamental twisting stems rather than its yield, but can be a good choice to consider if you are just looking for a small ornamental tree for your garden. Why Grow Hazelnuts? Hazelnuts are one of the very best perennial protein and oil crops for temperate climates. C. avellana catkins If you are looking to branch out beyond traditional annual food cultivation and look into more sustainable, perennial food-producing options, then the hazel tree is an excellent option to consider. Yields & Uses Yields can vary, and wildlife can be a challenge – often getting to the nuts before you can, but if you want to grow nuts in the UK, hazels are one of the top trees to consider. Hazel nuts are edible, of course, but can also be used in other ways – for example, the nuts can be rubbed on wood to release the oil and polish it. The non-drying oil derived from the seeds is also used in paints and cosmetics. Even if you are not looking to produce nuts in your garden, hazel trees can still be a very good choice. Wildlife Benefits The hazel is a wonderful, wildlife-friendly landscaping tree – attracting and supporting a wide range of native species. This tree can be coppiced and so can be great in carbon gardening and long-term, sustainable garden systems. If you have a vegetable garden, you will no doubt be able to find plenty of ways to use coppiced hazel in supporting your plants. Hazel trees can also be very useful for native hedgerow schemes. It works well in combination with other native species such as elder, blackthorn, hawthorn, native roses etc. All hazel trees, however, have ornamental appeal – especially when they bear their dangling catkins in late winter or early spring. How To Grow Hazelnut Trees Hazels can grow in full sun or light, dappled shade. They are H6 hardy and can grow across most of the British Isles. Soil Requirements Generally unfussy about their growing conditions, they will unfortunately not grow well in acidic soil, but can cope well in neutral, alkaline or even very alkaline soils. They can thrive in most soil types, but will do best in a good quality loam, which is neither low in nutrients nor excessively high in fertility. Yields are highest where the soils are neither particularly poor nor particularly rich. In clay soils, the area should be amended with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage, since the hazelnut tree likes moist yet relatively free-draining conditions. Exposure Hazelnut trees can tolerate wind exposure, but will not typically thrive in a maritime location. You can grow a hazel as a stand-alone tree, even in a smaller garden, while you can also consider growing it as an under-storey tree or coppice shrub in an existing woodland area or in a forest garden design. As mentioned above, you can also use it in hedgerows. Results (nut yields) will generally be best if you plant more than one hazel. Planting Like other trees, hazels are often bought as bare-root specimens which can be planted out over the dormant period. However, hazels can withstand transplantation well, so you can also choose a mature specimen if you want to achieve a more established garden more quickly, and plant that out in spring or early autumn. Hazels can also be grown from seed, though most home gardeners will find this a challenging proposition, and of course it will take a long time. Hazels grown from seed are typically transplanted into their growing position when around 2 years old, then, for coppicing, left for 4 years or so before they are cut to the ground to encourage straight coppice stems to form. Hazelnut Tree Care Hazels will not typically require a lot of care, though young trees and shrubs should be well watered during dry periods until they are established. Mulching It is a good idea to mulch around a newly planted hazel tree with wood chip, bark, or other organic material. Woody mulches will encourage a fungal soil environment, which can also help trees to become established. Protection It may also be a good idea to protect young trees from deer and other foragers with a wire cage or a tree protector in areas where they may be vulnerable. If you want to collect the edible nuts then you may find it challenging to protect the tree from squirrels and other wildlife. A fruit cage or other protection might be beneficial if you wish to grow nuts in any quantity. Diversity will also help make sure there is plenty of other food around for foraging creatures – though of course won’t keep them away entirely. Pruning / Coppicing Pruning or coppicing hazel will depend on where and how exactly you wish your hazel to grow. You can prune hazel lightly to keep it in shape, or largely leave it alone. “In a small garden the largest stems can be pruned out in alternate years in spring once the catkins have dropped, keeping the plant size restricted,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly, who has been certified in tree inspection by the Arboricultural Association. “These stems can then be re-used as poles elsewhere in the garden,” advises Colin. If growing it in a hedgerow, you can also leave it wilder or keep it more in check, or you can coppice hard in a regular coppicing system. Cutting hazel to the ground every 5-10 years is typical, usually in spring after the catkins have dropped. This will encourage the hazel to take on a more shrub-like form, with plenty of long, straight stems that you can use. Harvesting Hazelnuts Hazelnuts are harvested from September, as long as the wildlife has not gotten there first. The nuts are ripe when the outer casing begins to turn yellow. The nuts can be eaten raw, roasted, or used in a range of different ways. You can store the nuts in their casing for up to around a year if you can keep them safe from mice and other pests. But remember, even if you do not get any nuts, hazelnut trees can still provide a range of other yields and are very useful additions to your garden. References 1. Corylus avellana. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:295446-1
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Parsnips: Grow This Wonderful Root Vegetable In A Sunny And Open Site
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Parsnip Varieties How To Grow Parsnips Parsnip Plant Care Common Problems References Parsnips are not everyone’s favourite, but grow them correctly and they are truly delicious – a wonderful root vegetable to add to your home-growing repertoire. They are great for home growers – they are pretty easy to grow, and won’t require a lot of care. But as with any vegetable, as a gardener you need to know what they like, and what they don’t – you need to make the right decisions when it comes to the varieties you grow, where you grow them, and how you care for them in your garden. Overview Botanical Name Pastinaca sativa Plant Type Vegetable / Biennial Native Area Europe to central Siberia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Segmented pinnate leaves Flowers None Harvesting Months January, February, September, October, November, December Parsnips are a root vegetable that is related quite closely to carrots and parsley. This crop is usually grown as an annual, though like carrots and parsley, it is actually a biennial plant, which would typically complete its full lifecycle (from germination to setting seed) over two years. Parsnips are native to Europe through to Central Siberia and this plant has long been cultivated as an arable crop.1 Parsnips can be used like carrots and other root crops, though when cooked they can have a very sweet taste – especially after they have been touched by frost and the plant starches have begun to break down. The type of parsnip grown in gardens today is a cultivated type, which derives from the wild parsnip. Parsnip Varieties There are a number of named cultivars of parsnip available to gardeners in the UK. ‘Hollow Crown’ Some good varieties to consider are: ‘Albion’ (AGM) ‘Archer’ ‘Halbange’ ‘Hollow Crown’ ‘Gladiator’ (AGM) ‘Palace’ ‘Pearl’ (AGM) ‘Picador’ (AGM) ‘Tender and True’ ‘White Gem’ The varieties marked AGM have been assigned the RHS Award of Garden Merit, meaning they have undergone trials and have been assessed to perform reliably. ‘Gladiator’ How To Grow Parsnips Parsnips grow best in a sunny and open site with at least 6 hours of sun daily, but can also tolerate partial shade. Most commonly, they are grown in traditional annual vegetable gardens – in raised beds or in the ground – but they can also be grown in pots or containers as long as these are sufficiently deep. Parsnips can also be grown in fruit tree guilds, or the fringes of a forest garden. I grow them as part of my forest garden and find this can be beneficial because when you leave some of the roots in the ground until their second year, the plants will flower and can attract a range of beneficial predatory insects. They can therefore be helpful in organic pest control and can help keep fruit trees safe. Soil Requirements As root crops, parsnips need deep and moist yet free-draining, light and well-aerated soil. One thing to note is that soil that is overly fertile can encourage the roots to fork – so while you should make sure an area is smooth and without stones, you should avoid adding compost or manure in the area where you plan to place them before sowing. Companion Planting Personally, I like to sow parsnips in the same bed as carrots and onions. Not only do they like similar conditions, planting these crops together also makes crop rotation easier and the onions help to keep carrot flies confused – and your crops safe. Leeks and other long-season alliums can also work well in the same growing area. Annual flowers can also make good companion plants for parsnips (these also repel, confuse or distract carrot flies and other pests with their strong scent). Think about annual field meadow plants, like poppies, cornflowers etc. since these can also thrive in an area that is not overly fertile. Strong aromatic herbs like rosemary or sage, for example, can also be placed close to parsnips, and could help in organic pest control. Avoid planting parsnips near fennel, since fennel can have an allelopathic effect on a number of other plants growing close by.2 Parsnip Plant Care Parsnips do have a long growing season and will remain in place in your garden for a long time, so this is something to consider. The good news is, however, that they will not require a huge amount of care over the course of the year. Once your parsnip seeds have germinated, and the seedlings are around 2-3cm tall, thin them to give an eventual spacing of around 10-15cm between plants for good-sized roots. Watering Parsnips do not have overly high water needs. Usually, they will not require a lot of watering unless the weather over the summer is particularly dry. Giving parsnips a good soak every 2-3 weeks in dry conditions will usually be sufficient. Feeding As mentioned above, parsnip roots can fork in overly fertile growing conditions, meaning parsnips should not usually be fed at all. However, it can be a good idea to mulch between your parsnip rows with compost in the early summer. This provides some fertility and gives your crop a boost. It will also bring the added benefit of suppressing weeds, which is generally the more important consideration. Weeding Weeding can be very important when it comes to parsnips, and is really the main job when it comes to their care. Make sure you keep the area around them weed-free – especially while the seedlings are still small. Parsnips are slow-growing and can easily be smothered by more vigorous weeds. “It is common to use a technique called inter-cropping when growing parsnips where a quick-growing crop such as radishes is grown in between rows of parsnips,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. “By the time the parsnips have germinated the quick crop is ready to be harvested.” Common Problems Parsnip is not usually too troubled by pests, but one problem that can occur is carrot fly. Companion planting, as mentioned above, can usually protect your parsnips from this pest. Parsnip Canker Parsnip canker is another thing to look out for – this is a rot which starts at the top of the root with brown, orange or purple discolouration. It is usually caused by water issues, overly rich soil conditions, or damage to the growth of the plant. Make sure you avoid damaging the roots, don’t sow too early, water correctly and make sure the soil is healthy but not overly fertile and you should be less likely to see this issue. If this is a persistent issue in your garden, consider growing more resistant cultivars like ‘Archer’. As you can tell from the above, parsnips are a great choice for novice gardeners and are relatively easy to grow. Why not try growing some for your Christmas dinner and other delicious winter meals? References 1. Parsnips: Overview. (n.d.). Science Direct. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-384947-2.00714-5 2. Nourimand, M., Mohsenzadeh, S., Da Silva, JAT., & Saharkhiz, MJ. (2011, June). Allelopathic Potential of Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare Mill.). ResearchGate. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/283712660_Allelopathic_Potential_of_Fennel_Foeniculum_vulgare_Mill
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Why Cornflowers Are The Must-Have Low-Maintenance Plant For Summer
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Cornflowers? How To Grow Cornflowers Plant Care Cornflower Varieties Cornflowers are beautiful additions to your garden, and can be a great choice for a meadow planting scheme or even placed in your vegetable garden. When most people talk about cornflowers, they are talking about annual cornflowers, Centaurea cyanus, and it is these annuals that we are referring to in this article. However, it is worth noting that there is also a perennial cornflower, Centaurea montana, and a range of other perennial Centaurea (knapweeds) which can be either herbaceous perennials or subshrubs – and these can also be great choices for your garden. Overview Botanical Name Centaurea cyanus Common Name(s) Cornflower, Bachelor’s Buttons Plant Type Annual Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Ovate, long, spiky leaves Flowers Commonly blue Plant Out May Flowering Months June, July, August, September Deadheading Months June, July, August Another common name for this plant is ‘Bachelor’s Buttons’. It is a wildflower native to the UK which is very popular in cutting gardens and wildlife-friendly gardens. This is a hardy annual, with an RHS hardiness rating of H6. It grows up to around 75cm tall, and bears beautiful deep (usually blue) flowers in the late spring and summer months, from around June to August. The annual cornflower, C. cyanus, is a well-known meadow plant. Once, cornflowers were common as a weed in cornfields – hence the name. However, changes in agricultural practices mean that it is now very rare to find it growing naturally on farms. Cornflowers are typically blue, but cultivars are also available in a range of other colours, from blues that are almost black, to pinks, reds and whites. Why Grow Cornflowers? Cornflowers are not only an attractive annual flower. They are also extremely beneficial for attracting bees, butterflies and other useful insects to your garden. This means that they can be helpful for organic gardeners. Cornflowers are relatively easy to grow, and low maintenance – in the right location, they can often self-seed readily. What is more, they can provide us with a yield as well as just look pretty. You can eat the young shoots of cornflower, and the flowers can be added to a salad. The flowers are also an ingredient in several popular tea blends, such as ‘Lady Grey’. How To Grow Cornflowers Cornflowers work very well alongside poppies and other hardy annuals in an annual wildflower meadow planting scheme. Other native annuals for such a scheme include corn chamomile, forget-me-nots, wild candytuft, wild pansy and yellow rattle (which helps suppress grass growth). They can also be an excellent choice in more formal planting of annual flowers in a cutting garden. Try planting them alongside marigolds, calendula, cosmos and zinnias, for example. Reds, yellows and golds really bring out the blue of these flowers, but perhaps the very best way to place cornflowers in your garden is within your vegetable garden. Cornflowers can be sown undercover in a greenhouse or indoors in March, and planted out in May, or they can be direct sown where they are to grow in April or May. Sowing the seed directly is most common – germination rates will usually be good as long as the temperatures are between 10-16°C. In areas where the winter does not get too cold, you can also sow cornflowers in an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel in September, for earlier flowers and larger plants the following year. See this guide for more information on growing from seed. Companion Planting Since they are so good at attracting pollinators and other beneficial insects, they make excellent companion plants for a number of common annual crops – perhaps placed in pots or containers close to the main beds, or in a border along the edge of the kitchen garden area. They can also do well in a bed with Mediterranean herbs or other plants which like free-draining conditions. Soil Requirements Cornflowers will thrive in a site in full sun in a well-drained loam or sandy soil. They are unfussy when it comes to soil pH, even tolerating very alkaline conditions. These flowers do not require nutritionally rich conditions and in fact, can do well even in low fertility conditions. This means they can be placed in a sheltered or exposed location. Plant Care As mentioned above, these annual flowers require very little care. They are a low-maintenance plant and can be a good choice for new gardeners, or when gardening with kids. Watering Over the summer, cornflowers should not require much additional watering, if any at all. They are pretty tolerant of dry conditions and can handle some drought. In fact, overwatering or too much rain can be more of a problem. So make sure the soil or growing medium is draining freely. Cutting You can cut flowers to place in an arrangement inside your home – but be sure to leave some flowers for the bees and other insects who share your garden. Cut off the flowers just above a node and they should send up new flowers to replace those you have taken. You can enjoy the cornflowers you cut as fresh flowers, or you can dry them. One good thing about drying cornflowers is that their blooms retain their colour well when dried. Deadheading Even if you are not making use of the flowers, you should remove spent flower heads. Deadheading regularly through the late spring and early summer should mean that you get more flowers over the summer. However, make sure that you stop deadheading as summer progresses, and let some of your plants go to seed. Not only is there the chance for self-seeding or seed collection for next year, the seeds are also attractive to birds, and make a good food source for several species. Remember, these are annual plants, which will need to be re-sown (or allowed to self-seed) each year – but they can still be an excellent choice for many gardens in the UK. Cornflower Varieties You can purchase typical cornflower wildflower mixes, or wild cornflower seeds. However, you can also consider opting for one of the named cultivars for different forms or different hues. Some options to consider include: ‘Black Ball’ ‘Blue Ball’ ‘Blue Diadem’ ‘Classic Magic’ A range of shades from deep, dark purple to lilac, bi-colour and white. ‘Double Blue’ ‘Midget Blue’ Dwarf C. cyanus with blue flowers, perfect for the front of borders or containers.
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