Growing
Expert Shares Feverfew Growing Tips For This Prolific Self Seeder
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Feverfew? Feverfew Cultivars How To Grow Feverfew Feverfew Plant Care References Feverfew is an attractive daisy-like herbaceous perennial which can be both useful and attractive in a garden. It’s a good choice for a perennial border, or in the guilds of beneficial companion plants for fruit trees in your garden. To benefit your plants, and the garden ecosystem as a whole, feverfew can often be a good choice. Overview Botanical Name Tanacetum parthenium Common Name(s) Feverfew Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Balkan Peninsula, Anatolia and the Caucasus Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August Feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium, is a flowering plant in the Asteraceae (Daisy) plant family.1 It is a small perennial which grows around 50cm high, and has an eventual spread of up to around 50cm, with a bushy form. It has aromatic pinnately lobed ovate leaves and bears small daisy-like flowers with white petals and a yellow centre in the summer months. This plant is native to the Balkan Pensinsula, Anatolia and the Caucasus – but it is cultivated all over Europe and also common in other parts of the world.2 Why Grow Feverfew? Feverfew is an attractive ornamental plant that requires very little work, so it can be a great choice for a low-maintenance garden. Though relatively short-lived, feverfew is a perennial plant that will grace your garden for a number of years – and since it is a prolific self-seeder, if you allow it to go to seed it should reseed itself in an area and come back for many years to come. “In my own garden, I grew this plant from seed once about ten years ago,” explains Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “From the original five or six feverfews that were planted, many hundreds have since germinated, grown and set seed again. “Every year I edit the seedlings, keeping around 10% of them. If I didn’t do this the feverfew would very rapidly spread and dominate.” Further sowing will not usually be required as long as the plant is growing in a suitable location. Feverfew can bring several benefits while growing in your garden. For example, it is said to naturally repel a range of insect pests while in active growth (though it must be said that this may be anecdotal and scientific evidence is lacking).3 Some say that this makes it a good companion plant for a range of other perennial plants – you might also consider placing it close to a doorway or seating area to keep bothersome insects away. Feverfew also provides a range of yields which can be useful in the home and garden. Here are some pictures I took of Feverfew growing in the Glastonbury 2022 Permaculture Garden – a care and wellness garden run by Mike Feingold. Feverfew Cultivars In addition to growing the common Tanacetum parthenium, you can also consider some variants. Some popular named cultivars of feverfew include: ‘Golden Feather’ Botanical Name: T. parthenium ‘Aureum’ Bright lime-coloured leaves. ‘Snowball’ Botanical Name: T. parthenium ‘Snowball’ Puffy, globe-shaped flowers in pure white. ‘White Bonnet’ Botanical Name: T. parthenium ‘White Bonnet’ Double flowers in white with yellow centres. How To Grow Feverfew Feverfew is a quintessential cottage garden plant, and works well in informal and varied cottage garden-style planting schemes. It can work well in perennial borders, or in a dedicated perennial herb garden area. Due to its pest-repelling properties, feverfew may be beneficial for aphid control near roses, or be included on the sunny fringes of a fruit tree guild. Feverfew does require plenty of sunshine, so place it in full sun. It can cope with a location that is exposed or sheltered – but does not cope well with maritime exposure. Soil Requirements One of the most important things to remember is that feverfew does require a well-drained loamy or sandy soil, though it is relatively unfussy when it comes to pH and fertility. In fact, it can even be grown in or on a stone wall and can also do well in containers providing that they provide sufficient drainage. Sowing & Planting Feverfew seeds can be sown from March indoors, or direct sown in the garden after all risk of frost has passed, in April or May. Indoors sown plants are planted out between May and July. The seeds should just barely be covered, and it is important to make sure that the pot or seed tray does not dry out. Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be pricked out into individual plants to grow on before you plant them out into their final growing positions. Companion Plants Feverfew can work well under rose bushes, and pairs well with hardy geraniums (cranesbill), clovers, and Cerinthe major, as well as a range of other traditional cottage garden plants. You can also grow it in a herb garden with other perennial herbs – such as those Mediterranean herbs which also like free-draining conditions. Feverfew Plant Care Feverfew is a very easy plant to grow and could easily take over your garden beds if you let it, due to the ease with which it self seeds. This is a great choice for those who do not have a lot of time to tend their garden, or who would like to quickly achieve a garden with an abundant look and feel. Watering Once feverfew is in its final growing position in your garden, it will be relatively drought tolerant and will only require watering in extremely dry conditions, or when it is grown in containers. The soil should be moist but must be free draining – it is important not to overwater your plants. Feeding Feeding feverfew is unnecessary, and in fact, this is a plant that can thrive in poor conditions. Deadheading Deadheading feverfew will prevent the plants from self-seeding prolifically. So if you want to keep these more contained, then deadhead the plants before seeds form. Alternatively, collect the seeds from the plant so you can control where you want them to go and plant them next year. Or simply let the plants self-seed for a more natural and low-maintenance scheme. Propagation If you want to make new plants from the existing feverfew plants in your garden, you can divide the plants as you would other herbaceous perennials to make new plants. However, it is important to note that divided plants do not typically live very long, so this is not usually very useful. Save the seeds to propagate new plants, or, as mentioned above, let them self-seed and let nature do the work for you. References 1. Tanacetum parthenium. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/tanacetum-parthenium/ 2. Tanacetum parthenium. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:252460-1 3. Agriculture | Province of Manitoba. (n.d.). Feverfew. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/crops/crop-management/print,feverfew.html
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Surfinia® Petunias Are Carefully Bred For Their Trailing Habit - Here's How To Grow Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Surfinia Petunias? Surfinia Varieties Planting Surfinia Surfinia Petunia Care References If you are looking for trailing bedding petunias then Surfinia can be a great option to choose. If you want instant impact and a garden which reliably looks good all summer long, then this brand of trailing petunias could be an excellent choice. Surfinia is sometimes a name mistakenly applied to all trailing petunias – but this is like calling all vacuum cleaners ‘hoovers’. Surfinia is a registered brand name for a particular range of trailing petunias which make very popular bedding plants, frequently used in containers, window boxes and hanging baskets. They were specifically and carefully bred for their trailing habit, long blooming period, and weather tolerance. Overview Botanical Name Petunia ‘Surfinia’ (TM) Common Name(s) Trailing Petunias Plant Type Perennial (grown as an annual) Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Various hues When To Sow May, June, July, August Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October Surfinia’s story began in 1987 when Japanese breeders discovered a new petunia variety with fantastic flowering and growing characteristics.1 According to the brand – the name comes from the word petunia and the word ‘Surfin’ as the flowers were thought to grow like waves on the flower fields.2 This was the first trailing petunia brand on the market, and still dominates the market today. Why Grow Surfinia Petunias? Surfinia petunias are so popular because they: Have a pleasing trailing habit. Bloom from spring right through to the first frosts. Are tolerant of a wide range of conditions and weather and should be reliable wherever you live. Come in a huge range of hues. Don’t need deadheading because the flowers shed on their own. Surfinia Varieties Surfinias are purchased as plug plants or bedding plants throughout the spring and summer months. ‘Purple Vein’ There is a classic range to choose from, with many different colours, and also a newer range of earlier flowering Surfinia petunias. ‘Trailing Light Yellow’ Some popular options within the classic range include: ‘Velvet Blue’ ‘Blue’ ‘Heavenly Blue’ ‘Sky Blue’ ‘Deep Red’ ‘Burgundy’ ‘Purple’ ‘Hot Pink’ ‘Rose Vein’ ‘Purple Vein’ ‘Yellow’ ‘White’ And in the early flowering range, you might consider, for example: ‘Trailing Light Yellow’ ‘Trailing Red’ ‘Trailing Blue Ocean’ Planting Surfinia Surfinia is best purchased and planted in spring or early summer, and planted out any time after the risk of frost has passed in your area. If there is still a risk of frost it is important not to plant out too early. When choosing where to plant Surfinia, remember that these plants require a sunny spot, and will look their best when they are hanging, or allowed to trail freely over the sides of a container. They can also cope with partially shaded conditions but will not flower as well as they will when grown in full sun. The container that you choose should be free-draining, with drainage holes to allow water to escape. These petunias do not like having wet feet; root rot and other issues can creep in if drainage is not sufficient. The container should be filled with multi-purpose compost; adding coconut coir can also provide optimal conditions. Try a mix of 45% good quality multipurpose compost and 45% coconut coir, with 10% optional perlite, vermiculite or horticultural grit for improved drainage. Since they are vigorous plants, it is best to grow these in containers on their own. Though of course you can group containers and grow a range of other plants in pots or hanging baskets close by. Surfinia Petunia Care Surfinia petunias are generally very easy to care for, but as always when growing in hanging baskets or other containers, it is important to think about watering and fertility. Watering Petunias do need moist conditions, but are relatively drought-tolerant, which does make them a good choice for hanging baskets and containers, where water will deplete more quickly. Water regularly in dry conditions, and try to make sure when watering that you water the roots – while trying to avoid wetting the flowers and foliage as much as possible. Also make sure that water is able to drain away freely. Feeding There are fertilisers specifically formulated for Surfinia. However, in an organic garden, you will avoid the use of synthetic fertilisers. Still, Surfinia and other petunias will need nutrition, and when growing in containers, will usually need more than the growing medium can provide. So water with an organic liquid plant feed for flowering plants regularly over the summer months. Choose a balanced feed early on, and one high in phosphorus for good blooms later on. Pruning You do not need to prune petunias like these – however, you may wish to prevent the top of a display from becoming too flat by pruning the stems at the centre of a basket to encourage bushier growth at the heart of the space. “I don’t generally deadhead in the garden, but Surfinia Petunias are one that I would,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Because of the size of the flowers, spent flowers really detract from the appearance. I don’t use secateurs, but just twist and pull to remove.” Remember, there are plenty of beautiful flowers that you can grow yourself from seed, and many perennial options that will return year after year. But for an easy and high-impact, low-effort option, Surfinia could be a good choice for your annual garden display. References 1. History of Surfinia. (2020, October 2). Surfinia. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://surfinia-official.com/history/ 2. Did You Know… (2020, April 20). Surfinia. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://surfinia-official.com/tips-tricks/fun-facts/
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Cornus ‘Dogwood’ - How Experts Grow This Plant For Year-Round Colour
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Dogwoods Dogwood Care Tree Pruning Common Problems Want an ornamental tree for a postage-stamp-sized landscape in your garden? One that will provide virtually year-round colour? Well, a flowering Dogwood will offer richly-hued de facto flowers for a couple of months. Bright scarlet berries, most of them edible, will follow. Autumn will produce blazes of reds and purples, and winter will bring lovely branching forms or highly-textured bark into view. Overview Botanical Name Cornus Common Name(s) Dogwood Plant Type Trees / Shrubs / Hedging Native Area Eurasia, Indo-China, North America, Central Africa Hardiness Rating H5/H6 Foliage Dark-green, deciduous, ovate leaves Flowers Distinctive white flowers When To Sow May, June, July, August, September Flowering Months March, April, May When To Prune March If you want several garden landscape trees with notable ornamental value and which will provide year-round interest, look no further than Dogwood trees. Some species are even appreciated for their eye-pulling, textured bark. And this is only a general outline – virtually each variety of Dogwood brings its own very special ornamental value and visual appeal to the garden. Dogwood trees belong to Genus Cornus but not all Cornus are Dogwoods as such, for Dogwood trees are a subset of this genus which is further composed of much-branching shrubs and also a few rhizomatous subshrubs. However, there is no hard-and-fast line between Cornus trees and Cornus shrubs because several species or cultivars can be either a tall shrub, or a small tree, depending on whether or not the specimen is pruned, and how it is pruned. “Some Cornus shrubs have brightly coloured stems and are normally coppiced annually for a winter display,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “This is a different group of plants to the Flowering Dogwoods described in this article.” Most Dogwood trees are quite slow-growing even though they are not overstorey trees or particularly tall trees. Many Dogwood varieties including very popular C. kousa and cultivars reach heights of only about 7m and even most of the taller ones usually attain heights of 10-12m. Some species take ‘only’ 20 years to attain their ultimate height while others take 30 and even 40 years. As a result Dogwood wood is of a superb quality, being strong and dense – it is also desirable for its pretty grain patterns. How To Grow Dogwoods Where To Plant As understorey trees, Dogwoods are quite comfortable in part-shade locations. However, the sun-shade preference depends on the particular variety and also the climatic zone that that variety is planted in. In most regions of England, siting Kousa varieties in dappled sunlight or afternoon shade would be preferable over full sun. At the same time, do not plant them in full shade which would be worse than full sun. American-native Cornus varieties should be sited in full sun, otherwise partial sun. As smaller trees with shallow roots, Dogwood trees need to be watered. The sunnier their location and the hotter the weather, the greater their requirement for water, both in amount and frequency. Dogwood trees may be called landscape-ornamental trees; they are not shade trees and certainly not tall trees, and should be sited accordingly. Depending on the particular variety of Dogwood tree, it can be planted in front of a dwelling or behind it, at the boundary of a property, or at the rear of flowering bushes. With hardiness ratings of Zone H5 or H6, all Dogwood trees are hardy throughout the United Kingdom. Propagation Cornus trees can be propagated in any number of ways: from seed, softwood cuttings, semi-hardwood cuttings, hardwood cuttings, grafting, and even suckers, each method in the season-appropriate and suitable to it. Virtually every variety of these trees can be propagated by at least two of these methods. Propagating Dogwood trees from seeds is troublesome and is a method best left to experts; also trees grown from seeds take several years to mature. Grafting is the method of choice but this method also requires expertise. Though you can grow some Dogwood tree varieties from cuttings without much difficulty, you will have to match the method to the variety as well as the season, after which you will need to prune correctly and watch over it patiently as it will take years to mature. Amateurs and home gardeners will typically get Dogwood trees as a potted plant or bare root plant. If you have a choice between the two, opt for a potted plant even though it will cost more, as these can be planted year-round as opposed to bare-root which must be planted in winter. Dogwood Care Soil Requirements The best soil for Dogwood trees is a loose, fertile one that drains very well. Densely-packed or heavy soils are unsuitable. Sandy loam amended with organic humus, compost, peat, or some combination thereof would be perfect. It may have a layer of gravel or perlite. Dogwood trees prefer acidic soils. Cornus florida and other American-originated varieties require acidic soils; they will not thrive in close to neutral pH soil. C. controversa Soil pH in the moderately acidic to slightly acidic range should work well – 5.6-6.5 (which may be a little lower but not a little higher). C. kousa and its cultivars also prefer acidic soil but the slightly acidic to neutral range is best for these varieties. Ideally, potted Dogwoods should be transplanted during mid-winter to mid-spring. Do not transplant them in autumn. Grafting Many potted Dogwoods are grafts. Try to spot the graft and plant the tree so that the graft line is well above the soil level otherwise the tree will revert to the rootstock or may even die. The most straightforward way to go about it is to plant it to a soil level matching that at which it was in the pot. Otherwise, if you get a bare-root tree, plant it to about three-fourths of the root ball, keeping about a quarter of it above ground. Do not store a bare root Dogwood after you receive it. Unpack it immediately, examine the root system for problems, and set it in a large bucket of water for the root system to soak for 12-15 hours prior to planting. Watering After transplanting a potted tree give it a heavy watering. Give a bare root specimen whose roots had been soaked a moderate watering. Keep in mind that Dogwoods are shallow-rooted trees; therefore, they should be watered periodically and consistently. They are not drought-tolerant trees. The amount of sun and extent of the heat would dictate the amount and frequency of watering. You will need to be more attentive to the water needs of developing and young trees than mature and established ones. At the same time be sure that the roots do not get waterlogged and that the soil drains well. Fertilising Dogwood trees do not need fertilising, especially if your soil is fertile and has organic content, but if you must, fertilise only from its third year. Fertilise in early spring using a lighter-than-recommended application of 12-8-8 liquid fertiliser. Mulching around the base will be helpful no matter what region you are in. In warm, sunny climates, it will keep the soil moist for longer; in frigid climates it will protect the roots during hard frosts. Tree Pruning Dogwood tree varieties require little, if any, pruning and some should not be pruned at all. Shrubs on the other hand do require a stricter pruning regimen. Be aware, though, that if you wish to grow a Cornus shrub as a miniature tree, you will need to choose a leader, pinch out competing stems, and let the leader develop to the fullest. For the most part, all you need to do is to prune dead, broken, or diseased branches (such branches must be removed). Other than that, you should prune when two branches are crossed and touching one another. If you see a branch emerging from the base of the tree, this too should be pruned for cosmetic reasons. All pruning should be done in winter and no later than early spring. Larger branches should be pruned using the Three-Cut Method. Be very careful about removing any suckers attached to the trunk of the tree as you do not want to cause a wound on the trunk. Suckers observed on the nearby ground may be removed in winter or the sucker shoots may be mowed over during any season. Common Problems Dogwood trees are generally very pest-free trees. The Asiatic varieties plus C. nuttallii and, particularly, C. florida and its cultivars (but not other American species) are susceptible to cornus anthracnose. It is a fungal disease that causes blotches on leaves and defoliation, and dieback of stems. Cornus anthracnose cannot be treated by the hobbyist gardener; this disease calls for the attention of a professional botanist or horticulturist. Fallen leaves and affected parts of the tree should be removed and destroyed. You can avoid fungal diseases, root rots, and such by ensuring that the tree is planted in the right type of soil, that the soil pH is not alkaline, it is not sited in full shade, and the soil does not stay damp or waterlogged.
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Growing Hops With Mike Barker And His Specialist Nursery - Tips From A Seasoned Grower
IN THIS GUIDE Hops Overview How To Grow Hops Hops Plant Care Common Problems References Hops are one of the key components in beer and cultivating your own varieties can not only be a hugely rewarding endeavour in itself, but it can also help to unlock unique aromas that will set your flavour apart from others. While many gardeners might have you believe that growing hops is a challenging task, this climbing plant shouldn’t pose too many problems in the right conditions and with the right level of care and attention, especially if you’re already a seasoned horticulturist. In this guide, we’ve collaborated with Mike Barker, Owner of the specialist nursery Essentially Hops. “Strongly associated with Kent, hops are a herbaceous perennial which can have a substantial productive life,” says Mike. Every part of the plant’s annual growing cycle involves a high amount of physical and horticultural attention, which makes them a huge challenge to grow. “The crop is now a small minority crop in the UK, which means access to the right herbicides, fungicides and insecticides are very restricted. “Having said all that, standing in a hop garden that is close to harvest is one of my favourite places on the farm.” When divided into distinct stages the practice of growing hops should become easier and more achievable for anyone with the required levels of effort and focus. Hops Overview Botanical Name Humulus lupulus Common Name(s) Hops Plant Type Perennial Climber / Vine Native Area Europe & Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow When To Sow May, June Harvesting Months August, September Hops (botanical name Humulus lupulus) is native to much of the Northern Hemisphere – stretching from the UK and Spain to Siberia in the East.1 It is a climbing plant and uses long, flexible shoots known as ‘bines’ to attach itself to (and grow up) structures. Hops has been known to climb up to 6m in height – which can certainly pose challenges when it comes to harvesting season!2 As a perennial, it should return yields for many years once established (decades even) so it is a steady, productive contributor to any garden space. “I grow hops as an ornamental climber rather than for cropping,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Planted next to a trellis on a shed, once it has reached the top it continues its climb up into adjacent trees. “This creates a verdant atmosphere in late summer and is cut back in late autumn once the foliage has died back.” How To Grow Hops The first step in growing hops is acquiring the rhizomes from which they’ll grow, as Mike shares. “Hop sets are usually sold as bare root specimens and are 2 years old and look small, but don’t be fooled, as they can grow into quite a beast and overwhelm neighbouring plants.” Rhizomes are harvested in March and April, though depending on your geographical location and the variety you wish to plant, it may make sense to pre-order your rhizomes as early as January. You should be aware that different varieties have many different characteristics, so spend some time reading up on the attributes of the hops available to you and make your selection according to your own preferences. Once you’ve acquired your rhizomes, you should remove them from their packaging, wrap them in a damp kitchen towel and store them in the fridge until you are ready to plant. Where To Grow In the meantime, you can prepare the area by selecting a corner of the garden which receives plentiful sunshine – so ideally, a south-facing location. “Hops will always do better if planted directly into the ground,” says Mike. “[These plants] need fertile and well-draining soil, preferably out of the wind but with good light. If you want to grow them in a pot, just make sure they’re fed and watered correctly.” Since hops are climbing plants, they’ll need something to support their growth. Most home growers prop a trellis or other support against the side of the house, then use twine to allow for different bines to scale it. If you want to grow your hops against a trellis or house, Mike recommends choosing the varieties ‘Cobbs’, ‘Fuggle’ or ‘Bramling Cross’ for the best results. In the image above, many twines have been attached to standing supports, though this arrangement is perhaps more suitable for a commercial outfit. Soil Requirements Once you have selected an appropriate location for your hop plants, you should aerate the soil to ensure it offers good drainage. While it is possible to use fertilisers to boost its nutrient content, it’s preferable to use good quality compost and plenty of organic matter to mulch it. This will ensure your rhizomes are happy and healthy. Planting Rhizomes You should look to plant your rhizomes in spring, after the winter has passed and there is no danger of another hard frost – since this could kill your plants before they have even taken root. On the other hand, avoid planting any later than May, as this could have an adverse effect on the quality of the hops you grow. Locate each rhizome at a distance of around three feet from its neighbour to allow it to grow independently and prevent the varieties (and their individual flavours) from becoming mixed together. Dig a hole between 6-12 inches deep and place the rhizome inside, then cover it with compost and mulch. When positioning the rhizome in its hole, try and orient it horizontally so that the buds will emerge vertically. However, if you’re unsure of what this means or can’t figure out where the buds are likely to sprout, don’t worry about it too much. Rhizomes will grow however they’re placed as long as they have access to the right conditions and receive sufficient TLC. Hops Plant Care The first shoots which emerge after planting are known as “bull shoots”. If you wish to encourage additional growth in your hop plants, you can trim these back immediately to enhance production. Having said that, it’s not a necessary step in the process and you’ll still enjoy great hops by omitting it, so don’t worry if you’re forgetful or lazy. By summer, you should begin to see a significant amount of growth from your rhizomes. Training Once the plant reaches over a foot in height, you should begin training the bines to climb the trellis. You can do this by wrapping the bines carefully around your twine or trellis in a clockwise (never anticlockwise) direction. You may need to continue training them for a few days consecutively until they grasp what they’re supposed to do – but from this point on, they’ll climb independently and at an impressive rate. “If your stems have very few laterals bearing cones, you can improve this with training, by selecting just a few shoots to grow in April or May,” explains Mike. Watering Hops are thirsty little plants and require frequent watering. In the UK, it might not be necessary to supplement the rainfall that most parts of the country regularly receive, though it certainly can be during the height of summer. Check the soil surrounding your hop plants regularly and if it’s dry to the touch, give it a good drink. You want to aim for a moist but not sodden consistency at all times. Mike Barker argues that it is also important that the plant has a good supply of Potassium – you can use a high-potassium feed to encourage good growth. Pruning After a couple of months of growth, it’s advisable to trim the leaves off the bottom three feet of the plant. This will prevent any bacteria or fungi in the soil from attacking your plant and inhibiting its growth. Other than that, hops should perform well enough when left to their own devices. Common Problems Mike argues you should keep an eye out for pests and diseases, particularly powdery/downy mildew, which is common with hops. “Other problems include Red Spider Mite and the Hop Damson Aphid. “Red Spider is very difficult to detect, as it is microscopic and often the web is the only indication before symptoms of attack occur. “You can treat with predators which is probably the best option for the amateur grower. “Aphids can be stripped off or treated with soapy water…Normal aphicides will not work.” Mike also implores growers to watch out for poor growth after the plant has been put in the ground, as the root system may be under attack from beetle larvae. Slugs are also said to love hop shoots and can be deterred with the usual methods. References 1. Humulus lupulus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:303502-2 2. Growing Hops in the Backyard. (n.d.). Rutgers Cooperative Research & Extension. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/234/71501/fs992%20Growing%20Hops%20Rutgers%20University.pdf
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How To Grow A Willow Tree - 'The Need For Moist Soil Should Not Be Ignored'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Where To Plant Willows How To Grow Willow Willow Care Common Problems References Willows are found in a remarkable variety of sizes and shapes, and they grow nearly the world over. However, the vast majority are known only to botanists while several species are immensely popular, with a couple even being iconic trees. Willows are integral components of the British landscape, be it the forests or front gardens. Overview Botanical Name Salix Common Name(s) Willow Plant Type Tree Native Area Temperate Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating H5-H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Various When To Sow January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months March, April When To Prune February, March Members of this genus are commonly supposed to be native to the sub-arctic and temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. In fact, Salix species are native to both hemispheres and all climatic zones from sub-arctic to tropical including equatorial. Some or another species of Salix is native to nearly every country, and these include Willow Trees. For example, Humboldt’s Willow is native to South America and Cape Willow is native to Southern Africa. Most Willow Trees, though, are native to Europe, and also northern Asia and a belt of land spanning the United States and Canada.1 These deciduous trees are among the earliest ones to regenerate in spring, their pretty and colourful catkins that emerge in early April usually precede the leaves. The leaves are almost always simple and alternate, and those of most species are lanceolate while some species have oval leaves. Almost all Willows are dioecious meaning that a tree bears either male or female flowers, in the form of catkins. Habitat & Growing Conditions Other than Antarctica and Oceania, some or another species of Salix is found on every continent and nearly every region covering every climatic zone.2 Where Willow Trees proper are concerned, they predominantly inhabit temperate zones in the Northern Hemisphere, particularly in Europe. Their preferred habitat is a full sun location in moist ground, including heavy, damp soils. They are very frequently seen growing by or near water, from high banks of ponds and streams down to estuaries. These trees are fully hardy in the United Kingdom, with the different species having hardiness ratings of H5 and H6. Where To Plant Willows Willow trees in the main should be planted in full sun and in consistently moist soil such as that by a brook or a pond. Willow trees’ strong roots naturally seek out sources of water and they have been known to invade upon underground pipelines, sewage lines, and septic systems – so be sure to plant Willows at a healthy distance from such underground structures! Where you should best plant a Willow Tree is entirely dependent on the species. Consider the Golden Weeping Willow and the Tortured Willow. The traditional siting beside a stream or pond for a Weeping Willow is really the best one for it, and more so when it is accompanied by surrounding complementary greenery such as ferns and flower bushes – it is a pastoral landscape tree. In distinct contrast, Tortured Willow is a rugged landscape tree, even an ‘accent tree’ with a ‘hard’ character. It should be planted in an isolated location all by itself where its form will stand out. Flamingo Willow can be planted quite close to your dwelling where its attractive seasonal colours can be viewed from the bedroom windows as well as from the dining room. Blue-Stem Willow could just as well be treated as an accent shrub and planted by the walkway near the front door for your guests to admire. How To Grow Willow Many, though not all, Willows take root quite readily from cuttings. In end-spring to early summer, take a softwood cutting of 40-50cm, and simply put it into moist soil of the type outlined above, be it in the open ground or a container. Continue watering it, and when you see fresh shoots emerging you will know the cutting has taken root. For the most part, though, Willow trees are planted as young potted specimens bought year-round or bare-root plants bought from winter to spring from specialist nurseries. Both forms are easy enough to transplant: If planting a bare-root sapling, set it in a pail of water first and allow the roots to soak. The planting hole should be deeper and wider than the root system. Spread out the roots, backfill the hole, and push and pack in the soil between and over the roots. Give the new tree a generous watering, and ensure that it continues to get an ample supply of water. Willow Care The keys to growing thriving Willows are moist, even damp, soil and full sun exposure. Soil Requirements Willows flourish in fertile soils. A mixed loam, which may be heavyish, amended with organic compost is perfect for Willows. A soil pH in the Moderately Acidic to Neutral range – 5.6 to 7.3 – is ideal though these trees will do quite well in even Strongly Acidic soil. If, besides full sun, the planting site is by any waterway or pond, then that’s twice as much joy for the tree and less maintenance for you. “The need for moist soil should not be ignored when making the decision to plant a willow,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “With hosepipe bans and mains water bills rising, I have seen many willow trees fail in private and public gardens across the UK over the last few years. “If you don’t have moist soil most of the year a good alternative may be a variety of Eucalyptus. Like willow, there is a diverse range of Eucalyptus species and varieties, so you are likely to find one that suits your needs.” Feeding Among trees, Willows number among the few that are happy feeders. Goat Willow An annual ‘treat’ of an organic, balanced slow-release fertiliser right at the start of spring will be beneficial to the tree’s new bloom. Common Problems Very interestingly, Willows in the main are healthy trees that are not known to be unduly affected by pests and diseases but at the same time, the list of pests and diseases that can affect them is very long indeed. The somewhat serious pests include aphids, gall mites, sawfly larvae, and willow scale. Caterpillars and flea beetles are the less serious problems that may affect these trees. Most any variety of Willow can be sickened by willow anthracnose, scab, and rust diseases. In addition, a smaller number of varieties can also get willow heart rot, crown gall, honey fungus, root rot and tar spot. The above ‘laundry list’, as it were, is not meant to alarm; it is provided only for the sake of completeness. It should be noted that a particular variety will be more susceptible to one or another pest or disease whereas another variety will be more susceptible to some other pest and disease. It would be wise to ask the seller exactly which pests and diseases you need to watch out for as to your particular variety of Willow Tree. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2023i, March 12). Willow | Definition, Species, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/willow 2. Salix. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:325916-2
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Cape Gooseberry: How To Grow This Physalis Fruit That Prefers Warm Conditions
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow These Fruit? How To Grow Cape Gooseberry Companion Plants Plant Care Harvesting Cape Gooseberry Plants in the Physalis genus offer edible fruits that could be interesting additions to your kitchen garden. In this article, we will focus on one of the two most common Physalis fruits – the Cape Gooseberry – and provide the details you need to grow them successfully here in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Physalis peruviana Common Name(s) Cape Gooseberry / Ground Cherry Plant Type Fruit Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow flowers from which fruit form When To Sow January, February, March, April Plant Out May, June Harvesting Months July, August, September, October There are many different fruiting plants within the Physalis genus which have edible fruits. However, two stand out as options for UK cultivation: the tomatillo and the Ground Cherry or Cape Gooseberry. Both of these plants are actually related to the tomato, peppers, aubergines and potatoes, since all are in the nightshade family, Solanaceae. They are also more closely related to Chinese Lanterns or Physalis Alkekengi. And like all these other edible nightshades, they can be excellent options for home growing. In this article, we will focus on the Physalis fruit of Physalis peruviana. This is commonly referred to as the Cape Gooseberry or Ground Cherry – though it tastes like neither gooseberries nor cherries. In fact, this fruit has an interesting flavour which is like a cross between tomatoes and pineapple, or sometimes strawberry. Physalis peruviana rather resembles tomato plants, but usually have stiffer and more upright stems. Depending on their location and cultivar, they can grow to between 0.4-3m in height. Though they are perennial in warmer climes, they are usually treated as annuals in temperate climate zones like here in the UK. Why Grow These Fruit? Cape gooseberries really are a great crop to consider growing alongside other warm, summer-season crops – they can crop really abundantly and they really do taste delicious. They work really well in fruit salads, or in other salads, and can also be baked into pies and used in a wide range of other recipes. For temperate climate gardeners who cannot really grow pineapples where they live, these could be the next best thing, as (in our experience at least) they do have quite a pronounced pineapple-like taste. “Like the tomatillo, Cape Gooseberry is a fantastic plant for the home grower,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They provide a taste you can’t find elsewhere and are great eaten on their own or in a salad. They are also perfect for where space is limited or in containers due to the large number of fruits they provide in a small space.” Physalis peruvianas are also attractive plants – the fruits are encased within little husks as they grow. These start off green and then turn whitish and papery over time – looking like little lanterns on the plant, with the bright bulb of the yellow/orange fruit shining through. If you are looking to branch out from the most common edible annual crops, then these plants could be a very good option to consider. How To Grow Cape Gooseberry If you can grow tomatoes where you live, then you can grow cape gooseberries too. They need very similar conditions. Like the tomato, they like warm weather and are not frost-hardy – they will do best where the temperatures are between around 12-20°C. In cooler temperate climates like ours here in the UK, it is often best to grow these plants under cover. You can grow them in the ground or in large pots. However, in milder gardens, you can grow these outdoors wherever tomato plants can be grown. Remember that P. peruviana will need a sheltered position, in full sun or light shade. Soil Requirements It will fruit best in a relatively fertile, loamy soil, though it can also tolerate a much less nutrient-rich soil. It is best not to grow these in too nitrogen-rich an environment, as this can encourage leafy growth and mean that the plant will not flower and fruit as well. In terms of the pH level of the soil or growing medium, these plants are not particularly fussy, and they can tolerate even more acidic or alkaline conditions. However, it is important to remember that these plants do require a moist soil, and will not thrive where conditions are especially dry. Sowing Physalis Seeds Physalis seeds are typically sown, like tomatoes, indoors before being transplanted into their final growing positions. Start sowing around 6-8 weeks before the last frost date where you live. Sow the seeds for cape gooseberries at around the same time that you sow your tomatoes, and you should not go too far wrong. Sow the seeds into seed trays or small pots, and prick them out into their own individual containers once they are large enough to deal with easily. One thing to remember when sowing these seeds is that the growing medium should only just cover the seed – germination can be fairly slow, so be patient as you wait for your seedlings to emerge. Plant Out You can plant out Physalis in your garden, or into a greenhouse or polytunnel as soon as all risk of frost has passed in your area. Be wary of planting out too soon, and remember to harden off seedlings which have been growing indoors. If you feel that you may have planted out too early, or there is a late cold snap, you can consider protecting your plants with a cloche until the weather warms up reliably. When planting out Cape Gooseberry, a rough rule of thumb for spacing is that your plants should be placed around 45-60cm apart. A container of around 50cm in width should accommodate one of these plants to maturity. Containers (or raised beds) for P. peruviana should be at least 20-25cm deep for proper root development. Companion Plants As a member of the Nightshade family, Physalis fruit can be grown in a crop rotation plan with tomatoes and peppers. Since these plants require similar growing conditions, they can work well in the same beds. However, remember that these plants are related and so share pests and diseases, so make sure that you also include other companion plants. Many of the plants that make good companions for tomatoes will also make good companions for Physalis fruit. For example, underplant your crops with basil, oregano and parsley and consider sowing garlic and marigolds nearby. Plant Care If you have experience growing tomatoes and other warm-season crops where you live, then caring for Physalis fruit should be a breeze. Generally speaking, these are a fairly low-maintenance annual crop for your garden. Unlike tomatoes, they do not typically require any support when growing in a suitably sheltered spot. Watering Of course watering needs will vary depending on the stage of growth, weather conditions and a range of other factors. However, as a general rule, make sure that your Physalis fruit gets at least 2.5-5cm of water per week. As with tomatoes, it is especially important to make sure that these plants get enough water during the flowering and fruiting stages. Mulching & Feeding Remember to mulch between plants for fertility and to reduce evaporation. Add a potassium-rich mulch rather than a nitrogen-rich one to encourage flower and fruit formation. When your P. peruviana are flowering and fruiting, it is also a good idea to provide an organic liquid feed. A comfrey tea, or any other potash-rich tomato feed will work well. Pinching Out While not strictly essential, you may find it beneficial to pinch off the growing tip of your plants while the shoots are less than 30cm tall in order to make them bushier and encourage more side shoots to form. Harvesting Cape Gooseberry As a general rule, you should expect to harvest your cape gooseberries from around 60-70 days after placing them into their final growing position. You may find it interesting to watch your plants flower (from June onwards) and develop into fruits if you have never grown these plants before. As mentioned above, the lantern-like calyx around each fruit will slowly turn from green to a light beige colour. As soon as the calyxes are dry and paper-like, and you can see the fruits showing through, it is time to harvest. You may find that some fruits drop off the plant before you get the chance to harvest – be sure to pick these up quickly so they do not break down. P. peruviana may well self-seed if grown in optimal conditions, though when implementing a crop rotation system in a kitchen garden, this may not be desirable. Collect the fruit and remove them from their lantern-like casings; these cannot be eaten. You can consider saving the dried calyxes and using them as decorations inside your home – they look really pretty on strings, or in dried flower arrangements. One final thing to note is that if you would like to grow cape gooseberries again the following year, you can save the seeds. Saving the seeds of Physalis fruit is the same as saving tomato seeds; if stored correctly, these can be retained to plant next year.
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'Mimosa Tree' Is The Name Used For Two Non-Native Species - These Are Their Pros And Cons
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Pink Silk Tree Pros Cons Silver Wattle Pros Cons Other Flowering Trees Nitrogen Fixing Trees Trees With Edible Yields The name ‘Mimosa Tree’ is the common name for two non-native tree species – Albizia julibrissin and Acacia dealbata, even though neither belong to the Mimosiae genus. Online and in books, you will frequently hear horror stories about these plants, which can be hugely invasive in some areas. You may also read, however, about how they can help in sustainable design and ecosystem restoration… However, the pros and cons of these trees very much depend on where they are grown. Overview Botanical Names Albizia julibrissin / Acacia dealbata Common Name(s) Mimosa Tree, Pink Silk Tree, Silver Wattle, Blue Wattle Plant Type Tree Native Area E. Transcaucasus to Japan and South East Australia Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Deciduous / evergreen Flowers Yellow / pink-white blooms When To Sow April, May, June / September, October Flowering Months March to April or July to August When To Prune May / October While Mimosa trees can certainly bring serious issues for local ecosystems where they become invasive, this is typically not an issue in UK gardens, where these trees are much harder to grow. Still, though they can bring certain benefits, there are a number of reasons why they may not be the best choices for many UK gardens (which have nothing to do with their potentially invasive nature). Read on to learn a little more about the pros and cons of both of these mimosa trees: Pink Silk Tree Botanical Name: Albizia julibrissin Albizia julibrissin, also known as ‘Pink Silk Tree’ and commonly referred to as ‘Mimosa’ in the US, certainly is an attractive flowering tree. It is a deciduous tree with rose-pink fluffy flower heads which open in the summer months, and features interesting and exotic-looking bipinnate leaves. This plant is native to Ethiopia, Iran to Japan and China, though it has extensively naturalised elsewhere. Pros Nitrogen Fixation One of the main reasons why this can be a very useful plant in many regions is that. because it belongs to the Pea family Fabaceae, it is a nitrogen-fixing plant, meaning it deposits nitrogen in the soil it grows. As it can cope with a huge range of different soil and climatic conditions, this can make it a useful pioneer plant, which can be used to reclaim degraded landscapes and as a key species in forest gardens and agroforestry schemes. Not Typically Invasive (In The UK) This tree is H4 hardy and can be grown in some UK gardens with sufficient sun, warmth and shelter. However, in the climate of the British Isles, it rarely sets seed. This means that it is not as problematic as an invasive as it can be in parts of the US, and other areas. In southern, sheltered gardens, this can be an interesting option to consider – the tree is a suitable size for small gardens so can work well in some sheltered urban plots, and it is ideal for training against a sunny south-facing wall, or for container growing. Honey Fungus Resistance One other interesting plus point of this tree is that it is notably rarely affected by honey fungus. So for gardeners who have had issues with this fungal disease, it could be a good choice. Cons It really only succeeds in the very mildest parts of the British Isles without protection, or being brought under cover during the winter months. Hardiness If you do not have a particularly warm, sunny and sheltered garden then this may not be the easiest plant to grow and lower maintenance alternatives may be a better choice. Remember, this is a non-native plant and native options can often be better for your garden. Alternating spells of mild and cold weather can damage the top growth, and though these can and do often regrow from the ground when damaged by frost, the damage can be unsightly. “Newer growth over the summer can become damaged by winter frost, but these stems can be pruned out in the late spring to improve the appearance of the plant which produces the fern-like foliage from the early summer,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. It is also worth noting that though it is notably resistant to honey fungus, it can be affected by other diseases, such as verticillium wilt. Tendency To Spread Though the plant will not usually set seed in the UK, it can still spread. Plants often produce suckers and send up saplings, sometimes quite far from the parent tree. The strong root system can make these difficult to remove. The strong root system can crack concrete pavers or driveways, damaging the infrastructure in your garden. Though of course, this is not an issue when grown in containers. Mess below the tree is also a concern to some – flowers dropping off the tree can be a problem for some very neat and tidy gardeners. Silver Wattle Botanical Name: Acacia dealbata Acacia dealbata, also known as mimosa, silver wattle or blue wattle, is also sometimes grown in the UK. It is native to Tasmania and parts of mainland Australia. Pros Nitrogen Fixing This plant is H3 hardy, but where it can be grown, this is another useful nitrogen-fixing plant. Remember, nitrogen-fixing plants have symbiotic relationships with bacteria in their root nodules which can turn nitrogen from the air into nitrogen in the soil. Some of the nitrogen is used by the plant itself, but some may also be taken up by other plants in the vicinity. Drought Tolerant Like the above, this is a good pioneer plant for some climate zones. It is drought-tolerant and may be a good choice for lower rainfall areas. Preventing Soil Erosion This tree also has an extensive root system, which helps prevent soil erosion. So it can be a useful addition in areas with poor, light soils which can easily be eroded. Like the above, this mimosa is also a good choice for small spaces, and it can also be grown in containers, or trained against sunny, south-facing walls. The flowers of silver wattle are fragrant, so can be pleasant when located close to windows or seating areas, and the flowers are edible too. Cons Hardiness & Soil Requirements Like silk trees, silver wattle can only be grown without winter protection in milder parts of the British Isles, and requires a sheltered position. So again, it is not the most low-maintenance choice and you may find many of the same benefits with other lower-maintenance trees and plants. It is also worth noting that while Acacia dealbata can work well in many different conditions, it is not suitable for heavy clay or limey soils. Remember, as an H3 hardy plant, this tree must usually be moved under cover in winter unless you live in a particularly mild and warm part of the British Isles. They really do need hot, sunny summers to mature and flower successfully. Invasiveness Mature specimens sucker very freely, just like the Albizia julibrissin, so this too can be a plant that can spread and pose a problem in your garden. Mess dispersed below this tree may also be annoying for neat and tidy gardeners. While both of these mimosa trees can bring benefits, neither may be the right choice for most UK gardeners. Here are some alternatives to consider: Other Flowering Trees Flowering Cherries Crab apples Amelanchier Magnolias Paulownia Nitrogen Fixing Trees Laburnum tree Some good nitrogen-fixing options for growing in the UK include: Alders Common laburnum Laburnum x watereri Laburnocytisus adamii Caragana arborensis Trees With Edible Yields As well as the usual range of fruit trees including apples, pears, plums, cherries and more, you can also consider growing trees with edible leaves, such as: Hawthorn Lime / Linden Beech Birch Mulberry Even if mimosa trees are not the right choice for your garden, you should still be able to find other trees which provide many of the same benefits, without the cons mentioned above.
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Azalea Japonica - How To Grow This Compact Shrub (Plus Some Interesting Varieties)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow R. japonicum? Japanese Azalea Varieties Where To Grow Japanese Azalea Planting Plant Care Guidelines Watering Mulching Pruning References Rhododendron japonicum is a compact Azalea, in the Rhododendron family which can work well in beds or border, or containers with acidic conditions. Rhododendron japonicum, known as Japanese Azalea, is a flowering shrub – usually evergreen – with a relatively compact form, glossy deep green leaves and flowers which come in a wide range of colours. It is a type of evergreen Rhododendron (though some cultivars can be semi-evergreen and lose leaves in cold winters), within the Ericaceae plant family.1 Overview Botanical Name Rhododendron japonicum Common Name(s) Japanese Azalea Plant Type Shrub / Houseplant Native Area Japan Hardiness Rating Often H4 Foliage Lobed, evergreen leaves Flowers Various hues, commonly pink When To Sow March, April, May, June, September, October Flowering Months March, April When To Prune April, May These plants have smaller leaves than deciduous Rhododendrons. Azaleas have been cultivated for centuries and more than 10,000 vibrant cultivars have been created, which means that there are plenty of options to consider when choosing one of these plants for your garden.2 Azaleas are categorised under two sub-genera – Tsutsusi and Pentanthera. Japanese evergreen Azalea fall within the former sub-genus.3 Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto City Azaleas are important in Japanese culture and Azalea festivals take place across the country each year, which are attended by many visitors. The plants are a common sight in Japanese (and Japanese-inspired) gardens around the world. R. japonicum is sometimes also used for bonsai, carefully and delicately trained – and sometimes used as container plants or even houseplants. Why Grow R. japonicum? Rhododendron japonicum is ideal for a low-maintenance garden. They are one of the most vibrant spring-flowering shrubs that can be grown in the UK, and provide their beautiful blooms for several weeks in April, May or June. Because of their spring flowering, they are also popular gifts for Mother’s Day and Easter. These are a popular range of shrubs for acid-soil gardens, since these are ericaceous plants that like a more acidic soil pH. They can help you make the most of a garden with acidic soil conditions. Even where there is not acidic soil, these small shrubs are pretty easy to grow in pots. Japanese Azalea Varieties There is a huge range of Japanese Azaleas to choose from. Some popular types to consider include: ‘Kurume’ Semi-dwarf Azalea hybrids which bloom prolifically. ‘Satsuki’ Compact Azaleas which bloom towards the end of spring. These Azaleas have dwarf tree shape, with beautiful gnarled trunks. They were originally hybrids of Rhododendron indicum and Rhododendron eriocarpum, and have been cultivated in Japan for centuries, but in the UK only since the beginning of the 20th Century.4 These are not particularly hardy, but can be grown outdoors in milder parts of the UK, or as container plants to take indoors in winter in cooler regions. Encore Azaleas Bloom from spring right through the summer months. These were developed by Robert C Lee in Louisiana.5 Gartrell & Robin Hill Hybrid Azaleas These are a group of larger flowered hybrids developed by Robert Derby Gartrell in the late 20th Century.6 Some interesting cultivars to consider include: ‘Hot Shot’ – variegated leaves and striking red flowers. ‘Silver Queen’ – variegated leaves and bright pink blooms. ‘Summer Sun’ – Satsuki variety, rich red flowers. ‘Robleza’ – Encore type, deep, intense red blooms. ‘Robles’ – Encore, purple flecked lilac flowers. R. x amoenum – Kurume variety, magenta-purple flowers, red autumn foliage. ‘Hino Crimson’ – RHS AGM, small, deep red flowers. ‘Mother’s Day’ – RHS AGM, bright red blooms. ‘Addy Wery’ – RHS AGM, deep, rich red flowering. ‘Iro Hayama’ – RHS AGM, white flowers with graduation to lavender or mauve. Though of course there are many, many more Japanese Azaleas to consider. Where To Grow Japanese Azalea Japanese Azalea is definitely a good houseplant to consider growing in a container inside your home. Many more compact cultivars are perfect for container growing, indoors, or outdoors with winter protection. However, many Japanese Azaleas can also be a great choice for a UK garden. Many cultivars are H4 hardy, but take note that there are many Azaleas which are not as hardy and which are only options for outdoors cultivation in very mild and protected southern gardens. Hardier cultivars will grow well in a fertile, rich, sandy or loamy soil which is moist and relatively moisture-retentive, without becoming waterlogged. They will thrive in a sheltered spot, in partial shade or full sun. Whether it is best to grow R. japonicum in full sun or partial shade will depend on your location, and the type and cultivar you have chosen to grow. Of course, the most important thing to remember is that, like other ericaceous plants, R. japonicum does require acidic soil. The optimal pH is between 5 and 6 for most Azaleas. Japanese Azaleas can work well in a planting scheme alongside other Azaleas, Rhododendrons, and Camellias. By selecting cultivars carefully you can enjoy blooms over a much longer period – some can even work well as hedges. With Japanese Acers and other Japanese plants which like acidic conditions, they can be perfect for a Japanese-inspired garden. Planting When planting R. japonicum, it is important to take care not to damage the roots. It is also important to plant the shrubs at the same level that they were at in their previous pot. Avoid planting them too deeply as they are intolerant of this. The top of the root ball should be above the soil – take care to ensure that this is not buried or the Azalea may fail to thrive or even die. If growing Japanese Azaleas in containers, make sure you choose a container that is of a sufficient size, and one which allows free drainage. Place crocks at the base to make sure water can pass through freely. Of course, you also need to make sure that you fill your container with ericaceous compost. Plant Care Guidelines ‘Konigstein’ A. japonicas are varied plants and some are much easier to care for and lower maintenance than others. Once established, hardy types in your garden can be more or less left to their own devices. Less hardy types grown in containers, or indoors, will require a little more care. Watering Once established, most Japanese Azaleas can be relatively drought-tolerant. However, it is very important to water well during establishment, and to make sure that the soil (or potting mix in containers) does not dry out during dry spells. When Azaleas are subjected to drought, they tend not to flower as well – since they are shallow-rooted, they do need the soil to be kept moist. “Rhododendron japonicum, when established, can tolerate periods of dry weather but can take some time to recover from drought,” shares Colin Skelly, Horticultural Consultant. “I focus on the planting position, such as avoiding areas that dry out in summer or providing dappled shade (but not dry shade). “Just as important is a thick layer of annual mulch (being careful not to mound against the stem) to hold moisture close to the shallow root system. “Also, I don’t clear away leaf litter as this helps to create a moisture-holding soil layer where the roots need it.” Remember that you will have to water container-grown plants more frequently than those grown in the ground. Mulching As Colin highlights above, it is a very good idea to mulch well around your plants to protect the shallow roots of these shrubs and reduce moisture loss. Choose an ericaceous mulch such as pine bark or pine needles to do so. Mulching will also provide all the fertility Japanese Azaleas need. It is not usually necessary to provide any other fertiliser for these plants. In fact, fertilising too much can be counterproductive and these shrubs may not perform as well if you do so. Pruning Azaleas typically only need light pruning and Japanese Azaleas may not really need to be pruned at all. As mentioned above, however, some Azaleas are used as bonsai, and trained and trimmed into ornamental, decorative forms. If light pruning is required, this should typically be undertaken just after the end of the flowering period. Make sure you do not prune after buds for next year’s flowers begin to form, as this would mean fewer flowers the following year. There is more to discover about Japanese Azaleas, but this guide should help you with the basics of choosing and growing these beautiful flowering plants. References 1. Rhododendron – Azalea or Rhododendron. (n.d.). Plant Facts. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://plantfacts.osu.edu/pdf/0247-943xx.pdf 2. Azalea Society of America. (2018, August 14). Learn about azaleas. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.azaleas.org/about-azaleas/ 3. Rhododendron and Azalea Classification Information. (n.d.). The American Rhododendron Society. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.rhododendron.org/classification.htm 4. Kennedy, C. (2022, June 28). Satsuki Evergreen Azaleas Extend the Blooming Season of the Genus Rhododendron. Seattle Japanese Garden. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.seattlejapanesegarden.org/blog/2022/6/28/with-their-elegant-late-may-and-june-flowers-satsuki-evergreen-azaleas-extend-the-blooming-season-of-the-genus-rhododendron 5. Borden, J. (2021, September 1). Meet the Man Behind the South’s Iconic Encore Azalea. Southern Living. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.southernliving.com/garden/flowers/encore-azalea-buddy-lee 6. A Guide to the Notebooks and Papers of Robert Gartrell. (n.d.). University of Virginia Library. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://ead.lib.virginia.edu/vivaxtf/view?docId=uva-sc/viu04020.xml
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Gardeners' Hollyhock Growing Advice For That Quintessential Cottage Garden Look
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Hollyhocks Hollyhock Plant Care Companion Planting Common Problems References Hollyhocks are perhaps one of the quintessential cottage garden plants there are. Botanically named Alcea rosea, they provide tall towers of jewel-like flowers during the summer months. Hollyhocks are easy to grow and care for and look impressive in any border or planting scheme. Hollyhocks are often thought of as perennial plants, as they tend to come back year after year. Although they live on and flower for only a few years, they self-seed readily into any available crevice and therefore will spread around if allowed. Overview Botanical Name Alcea rosea Common Name(s) Hollyhocks Plant Type Biennial Native Area Eurasia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Large spires / deciduous Flowers Various colours Flowering Months June, July, August, September They are, however, actually a biennial – meaning that they flower the year after being sown. It is thought that they originated from Asia and were introduced to the UK in the 15th century and are classified as part of the Malvaceae or mallow family, along with Lavatera, abutilon and hibiscus.1 Hollyhocks are a tall slender plant, perfect for the back of a border, as some can grow in excess of 2m given the right conditions. Large flowers decorate their tall stems in all manner of colours, from pink and yellow right through to purple and even almost black. Listed as one of the Royal Horticultural Society’s plants for pollinators, they provide a great source of nectar and pollen for bees and other insects when they are in flower, during the summer months.2 Common Varieties There are many different hollyhock varieties available here in the UK, so it is simply a choice of which colours would go well with a chosen colour scheme or planting plan. Available as either single or rather elaborate double flowers, all are equally impressive to grow, however, most double versions are not pollinator-friendly. To help you choose here are five of the best varieties available here in the UK: A. ‘Sunshine’ Single large yellow flowers: 1.8m x 0.5m. A. ‘Blacknight’ Single dark purple, almost black flowers: 2m x 0.5m A. ‘Halo Apricot’ Single dusky pink flowers with a contrasting purple center: 1.8m x 0.5m A. ‘The Bride’ Double white flowers with a ruffled appearance: 2m x 0.6m. A. ‘Chaters Double Rose’ Double bright pink flowers with a ruffled appearance: 1.8m x 0.6m Hollyhocks can suffer from rust, which is best avoided if possible. Some varieties are now bred to be more rust-resistant which is something to keep in mind when choosing. How To Grow Hollyhocks Hollyhocks are real sun lovers. They prefer a south or west-facing spot in the garden and are more suited to beds and borders rather than containers. Although happy in either a sheltered or exposed situation, try and avoid a really exposed site, as they will catch the wind due to their height. Hollyhocks can cope will most soils if well-drained and relatively fertile, but they may struggle if grown on clay. Saving Seeds Hollyhocks are a relatively easy plant to grow from seed, whether bought or saved from previous plants, but beware that any plants grown from parent plants may not necessarily come true. To save the seed from a plant, it is necessary to leave the flower stems on until after they have finished flowering. Wait until the seed heads turn brown, remove the pods and keep in a dry and moisture-free container until sowing. “Paper envelopes are best for this and sealed plastic containers should be avoided as the seed can spoil,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “They should be kept completely dry and cool until they are ready to sow.” Hollyhock seeds are large, flat and easy to handle and are hence a great flower to sow with children. The seeds are best sown under cover, such as in a greenhouse or on a windowsill in April or May, or directly into the ground in June, once the soil has warmed up. See our guide to sowing Hollyhocks for a full breakdown of the entire process. Planting Out To plant out a hollyhock in a pot, prepare the ground first by removing any weeds and incorporating some organic matter or compost. Plant the hollyhock in the ground at the same depth it was in the pot, firm in and water well. Hollyhocks need lots of space so the recommended spacing if planting in groups is 60cm apart. Hollyhock Plant Care Hollyhocks are an easy plant to grow and look after as they require little maintenance. Readily available as plants from garden centres or online, they can also be bought as plug plants and seeds. Staking In an exposed garden, it is advisable to tie the stems as they grow to a stake or bamboo cane to save them from getting blown over. Feeding & Watering Hollyhocks need regular watering to begin with, but once established the plants should not need much except during hot and dry spells. Hollyhocks shouldn’t need to be fed during the growing season, especially if the soil is relatively fertile already. If the soil is already poor to begin with, it is worth adding some well-rotted organic matter prior to planting or applying fertiliser during the growing season as a liquid feed. Once the flowers have died back, the stems can be left on to allow the seed pods to naturally self-seed around, the seed saved and stored for future sowing, or cut down. Companion Planting Hollyhocks have long been regarded as a stalwart of cottage garden planting and look equally good in a coastal garden scheme or planted along a wall. Hollyhocks go well with many typical cottage garden plants including – but not limited to – delphiniums, peonies, phlox, lavender and lupins. “The range of colours lupins have can be used to great effect with hollyhocks to set up complimentary colour schemes, along with other stalwarts of the cottage garden, such as roses and foxgloves,” says Roy. Common Problems Slugs Young hollyhock plants are especially attractive to slugs. When plants are small, try surrounding them with barriers, such as wool pellets or copper rings and try and encourage predators including birds, frogs and hedgehogs into the garden. “Treating the soil hollyhocks are planted in with nematodes can also be an effective organic approach,” Roy adds. Homemade slug traps and torchlight searches can prove surprisingly effective as well. Flea Beetle Along with brassicas, hollyhocks are susceptible to damage from the flea beetle. Damaging the leaves and sometimes the roots, the flea beetle’s calling card is round holes in hollyhocks foliage. The holes can only be a few and nothing to worry about, but a bad infestation can leave the foliage looking like a Swiss Cheese, with more holes than leaf. Control can include picking the beetles off and encouraging more predatory birds, frogs and hedgehogs into the garden. However, with a bad infestation, contact insecticides may have to be applied – but not when the plant is in flower – as this poses a danger to bees and other pollinators. For example, although pyrethrins are an organic contact pesticide, they are toxic to honey bees. References 1. Berry, P. (1998, July 20). Malvaceae | plant family. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Malvaceae 2. RHS Plants for Pollinators. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/science/pdf/conservation-and-biodiversity/wildlife/plants-for-pollinators-garden-plants.pdf
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