Growing
Garden Ranunculus: How To Grow Beautiful 'Persian Buttercups' From Tubers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Ranunculus Plant Care Common Problems References Would you like to see fully double bowl-shaped blooms with row after row of neatly-arranged wafer-thin petals in your garden? And, oh, the colours – snow-white, ruby red, dark violet, or gradated flame orange or with fine purple edging! On top of it all the long-blooming flowers rise above a perfect backdrop of feathery foliage – be introduced to Garden Ranunculus. Overview Botanical Name Ranunculus asiaticus Common Name(s) Persian Buttercup Plant Type Perennials / Annuals Native Area Eurasia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Beautiful blooms in various hues When To Sow March, April Plant Out May to June Genus Ranunculus girdles the globe – this cosmopolitan genus is absent from only a swath of land in western Africa, northern South America, and Papua New Guinea.1 Ranunculus asiaticus, the parent species for Garden Ranunculus, occurs in nature in a belt of land from Cyprus through Turkey and Iraq to Iran. Ranunculus grows from underground tubers which are, not quite accurately, also called corms. They are herbaceous deciduous perennials that are effectively annuals in cold climates. Bear in mind, though, that other species – besides Persian Buttercups – in this genus are starkly different. Some are fully cold-hardy, others grow in poor soil, and yet others are water-loving aquatic plants. Persian Ranunculus are none of these things; they are highly-cultivated ornamental plants for well-manicured gardens. ‘Hanoi’ There is one and only one reason to grow these plants: the blooms. Though Persian Buttercup is not a type of plant that offers a cornucopia of varieties, the limited number that it does produce such perfectly-sculpted blooms that just about anyone with a flower garden will probably want to try their hand at Ranunculus! Habitat & Growing Conditions Garden Ranunculus does not flourish in hot, humid conditions or in overly-damp soil. They grow best in well-draining, light soils. At the same time, the tubers are not fully hardy and will not survive prolonged frosts, especially in containers. The best type of climate for these plants is made up of mild winters, long springs with cooler temperatures, and pleasant summers that are not very warm or very rainy. R. asiaticus At an RHS hardiness rating of Zone H4, Garden Ranunculus is just hardy enough to be grown as a perennial in most of the United Kingdom. Planting and growing Ranunculus in the UK is one of those fine-margin propositions such that your particular location will dictate your choices and will also strongly influence how successful you are in this endeavour. How To Grow Ranunculus Ranunculus offer at least three possibilities as to how best to deploy them in the garden. Preliminarily, though, these flowers are most suitable for courtyard gardens, city gardens, and even formal gardens. A mass planting of mixed varieties in a large bed will create a stunning effect in view of the form of the blooms and the colours. At the other extreme, a single plant of any of several varieties in a container will make a superlative accent plant for the entry steps. Finally, Ranunculus make excellent companion plants such that a few combinations are already established. Try yellow and orange Ranunculus varieties with traditional blue and purple Delphiniums, as just one example. Sourcing Tubers Tubers can be categorised in different ways. Many British growers grade them by circumference. If you intend to grow Ranunculus in a sizeable bed, you can go with a large number of smaller, less floriferous, and certainly less expensive 4/5 tubers. For container-growing and for specimen plants, you should buy the larger tuber sizes. No matter which ones you get, tubers should be dry, firm, and without any nick or blemish. Planting Before planting the tubers, you may soak them in water at room temperature for an hour or two. In southernly UK regions, you can plant tubers in November, early spring, or both, otherwise plant them after the last frost. However, note that the tubers need temperatures of 9-13°C to emerge. If the average temperature is not within this range then you will need to grow the tuber(s) indoors or under glass in controlled conditions. This will achieve earlier spring flowering. Tubers should be planted about 4cm deep. Aim for a spacing between 10-25cm apart, depending on tuber and cultivar size. They must be planted with the ‘claws’ from which the roots will grow, downward. Backfill the hole and gently firm up the soil. “If you’re in doubt as to how best to grow these delightful plants, I would recommend planting them in October into 1 litre pots of good compost that is water-retentive, but also free-draining,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Place these somewhere slightly warm and out of rainfall, such as a greenhouse or cold frame. Keep the compost lightly moist but not too damp and in very early spring, growth should emerge.” Aspect In all parts of the United Kingdom except the balmiest ones these plants should be sited in full sun, otherwise they should get morning sun for about six hours. Soil Requirements A sand-based soil with little or no clay amended with organic compost or humus down to 7-8cm will suit these plants very well. Soil pH should be in the Slightly Acidic to Neutral range – 6.1 to 7.3 – or thereabouts. The soil should drain very well as this plant’s tubers are at risk of rotting in damp or poorly-drained soil. If you need to enhance drainage incorporate gravel at the bottom layer or mix in perlite. You can also facilitate drainage by forming ridges or mounds into which to plant the tubers. Apart from the garden, Ranunculus tubers may also be planted in suitably-sized containers. Plant Care You can plant Garden Ranunculus tubers in two very different seasons so that they will, in turn, produce flowers in two very different seasons as well. In either case the flowering season will last for five weeks, stretching to six. Golden Persian Buttercup Flower Autumn-planted tubers will put up flowering stems in March and spring-planted tubers will do so in June. Thus, if the summers in your particular region are not overly warm and humid, you can enjoy summer Ranunculus blooms, besides spring ones. Watering Water well after planting. You may apply a thin mulch of hay, straw, or bark. Water twice or three times per week. The soil should not become waterlogged nor should it be allowed to completely dry out in the initial growing phase, it should be kept just moist. Decrease the quantity and frequency of watering after the plants become established, and cease watering after they have shed their leaves and become dormant. Fertilising In the beginning of spring or at the end of spring, depending on when you planted the tubers, feed the plants with a 5-10-10 slow-release fertiliser. The aim is to do this prior to flowering. Alternatively, mix bonemeal into the soil several centimetres away from the tubers. Overwintering Though Ranunculus will grow outdoors in most regions of the UK, whether or not you should lift the tubers for the winter depends on your precise location, the possibility of a hard frost, and the kind of soil you have prepared. If you live in a cooler region of the UK, if you anticipate an extended frost, if your soil does not drain very well, or if you anticipate a wet summer, you should remove the tubers for indoor storage until planting season comes around, otherwise simply dispose of them and buy new tubers the following season. You can circumvent the need to remove tubers and re-plant them by growing Ranunculus in appropriately-sized containers. If you need to lift your tubers, cut off the tops, allow them to dry out in a cool, dry, dark room, and store them in a similar environment, after lightly packing them in vermiculite and putting them in a mesh bag. “As the frost risk subsides, transplant them into the ground or large decorative containers and await their triumphant display,” adds Peter. “Once they’ve finished, return them to their pots and the same location they spent the winter in, as this will keep them dry over the summer, which is important. Just be careful to make sure they do not bake too much.” Common Problems Belying their delicate and refined appearance, Ranunculus are relatively healthy plants that do not suffer from many pests or diseases. All you mainly need to watch out for are aphids and powdery mildew. Aphids can be combated with organic remedies such as horticultural soaps. If you see powdery mildew on a plant cut off the affected parts and promptly remove them from the garden. Ensure that the plant is getting sufficient sun and is not closed-in by other plants. You can avoid mildews by watering at soil level so that foliage does not get damp. References 1. Ranunculus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002060-2
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Freesias Are Not Easily Grown - Follow These Guidelines To Improve Your Chances
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Where To Grow Freesia How To Grow Freesia Plant Care Common Problems References Out of Africa via the Victorian Era, Freesia, a cormous perennial, combines a fulsome appearance with refined elegance. Consider that each flower stalk is top-heavy with eight trumpet-shaped flowers but each bloom is the embodiment of graceful refinement. Moreover, the flowers are gently scented or intensely fragrant. As for the colours, you get it all from cool blues to fiery oranges, plus whites and bi-colours. Overview Botanical Name Freesia Plant Type Perennial Native Area South Africa (modern hybrids cultivated) Hardiness Rating H2/H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Various colours When To Sow (Indoors) September, October, November When To Plant May, June Flowering Months June, July, August Freesia is a genus in the Iris family of flowering plants but in common usage, the word Freesia refers to hybrid-cultivars descending from species F. refracta, F. leichtlinii, F. armstrongii, and F. laxa. The term Freesia is loosely defined because a little too often cultivars of other genera in the Iris Family also get lumped with Freesias. One way or another, all species and cultivars are deciduous perennials that grow from corms that are sometimes (inaccurately) called bulbs. They bloom in spring and summer. Freesias are frost-tender plants and cannot be grown outdoors as easy-grow perennials in most of the United Kingdom. If you live along the south-western and southern coast of the UK you are in luck. But even if you don’t, with some effort you can still grow this hit from the Victorian Age and a hot favourite flower to this day. A major reason that Freesias are so admired is their delightful scent, for which these flowers are renowned. And belying their delicate appearance, cut Freesia blooms have vitality to spare – they will last a week to ten days in a vase. Another plus point is that for beautiful flowering plants they are relatively pest-resistant and disease-free. “When I was a Head Gardener of a large property with over 100 rooms, we had a small commercial glasshouse full of Freesia to provide the home with cut flowers,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “Although I love the flowers, I hated growing them at that scale due to the constant battle with aphids. “In the end, we did have to reduce the number of plants and draft in some Coccinellidae (ladybirds) to help control the aphid numbers.” You may have heard that Freesias are not easy to grow and we cannot argue that point. But, on the other hand, their virtues are so exceptional that you may be well advised to give them a go! Habitat & Growing Conditions Many Freesia species are native to the Western Cape in South Africa; they grow in nature in dry regions that get winter rainfall.1 Their habitats include sandy and gravelly ground, dunes and scrubland, and the edges of forests. The corms regenerate in February and March, which is Autumn in South Africa, and they put up flowers in the winter months of July and August. Temperatures of 8-10°C are the most amenable to flowering. Despite their preference for cool temperatures, Freesias are not hardy; their hardiness rating is only H2 and H3, depending on the variety. Where To Grow Freesia Freesias are classic cottage garden plants. And, in all truth, they are brilliant for country estates and manors. These plants make excellent bedding plants, either in the form of a Freesia mix or as companion plants. F. laxa Freesias and Primula Primroses, and Freesias with crocuses, are excellent combinations that will enhance the cottage garden or country garden effect. Freesias would be well set off grown against a backdrop of Phlox. Though Freesia varieties are not commonly considered accent plants, they can certainly be grown as houseplants in a well-ventilated spot that gets several hours of sunlight. A pot or two of these lovely flowers will certainly light up – and also ‘scent up’ – any room as they will a balcony or patio. How To Grow Freesia Freesias are planted as corms but can also be grown from seeds. Germination from seed is not straightforward, and it takes anywhere from one to four months. Seed-grown plants focus their energies on developing their corms and do not flower for the first few years. Aspect & Soil Requirements In the UK, Freesias should be grown in full sun, or in full morning sun and dappled or filtered afternoon sun. A loose and fertile sand-based soil without clay, amended with organic compost or humus will be perfect for Freesias. Incorporate gravel or perlite as necessary to ensure excellent drainage which is a must for these plants. Two kinds of Freesia corms are available, prepared and unprepared. Planting The former type are heat treated so that planting them in April will produce flowers for a long summer flowering season from July through August. Thereafter they will revert to producing flowers in spring. Unprepared corms can be planted in September in containers or outdoors in only the very mild regions of the United Kingdom to see blooms from April. In colder regions of the country they can be planted outdoors after the last frost. As a general rule, Freesia corms will produce flowers 12-14 weeks after planting. Plant the corms with the pointed tip upwards in loose soil that is not densely packed. The tips should be right at the surface of the soil which means that the corms, depending on size, would be planted at a depth of 4-6cm. They should be spaced at 6-8cm. Plant Care Watering Water well after planting – keep the soil consistently moist in the early growing stages. Soil should neither get waterlogged nor allowed to dry out. After the plant puts up leaves, water it periodically. Cease watering it after the flowering season is over and when the foliage has wilted and browned. “If grown in pots, I recommend growing them in a free-draining potting mix, giving them a really good drench and not allowing them to sit in water for too long,” says Dan. “Constant light watering may stress the plant and encourage aphids.” ‘Oberon’ Temperature Freesias are very temperature sensitive. For the plants to flower abundantly and produce healthy flowers, the temperature over a 24-hour period needs to be between 8-20°C with nighttime temperatures to stay between 8-13°C. Support Though the flower stalks have a graceful flex, the truth is that all too often (the stalks of) the newer varieties with double flowers or larger flowers cannot support a full head of flowers. Consider utilising canes or grow-through supports to keep flower stalks from getting bent and bowed. Fertilising Feed the plants with a 10-10-10 liquid fertiliser just when the corms send up stems. Fertilise once again just when the first buds form with a high-potassium liquid fertiliser. It is necessary to dilute both as appropriate. Overwintering Freesias grown in containers can be overwintered indoors; though their foliage will have shed, the dormant corms will be protected from frosts. If you remove corms to bring them indoors before winter, cut stems and stalks down to 2-3cm. Place the corms in a cool, dark place so that they can dry out, then pack them lightly in sand or peat moss, put them in a mesh bag, and store in a cool (but not cold) and dry room. Before planting the corms back outdoors after the last frost they will have to be heat-treated, howsoever amateurishly. For at least two months before re-planting the corms will need to be kept at a temperature of about 30°C. Keeping them on a sunny windowsill is a simple time-honoured technique that usually does the trick. If you preserve your corms, about every four years you should separate the offsets, to be used as new corms. Babiana stricta – a ‘non-Freesia’ Freesia Pruning If you wish to cut these flowers, cut the flowering stalk of an inflorescence or a cluster when only one of the buds has bloomed and the rest are still half-open or are still buds. They will open up in a vase over a few days – you can prolong vase life by changing the water daily and by cutting the stems at an angle. Cut the flowers in the morning, preferably early to mid-morning, to further extend vase life. Spent flowers should be cut for cosmetic reasons but not the foliage, even after it yellows. The leaves keep producing energy to be stored in the corms. Cut the foliage only after it has browned and died. Common Problems Again belying their delicate appearance, Freesias are relatively pest-free and disease-free flowering plants. The only pest that they are susceptible to is aphids. Other than that they may suffer from glasshouse red spider mite under glass or indoors. Some varieties may occasionally succumb to fusarium wilt. Aphids are treated by washing them off and applying organic products like BotaniGard ES or Safer’s soap. Ladybugs will help against both aphids and red spider mite. As a first step to fighting red spider mite, try a neem oil and soap solution in soft water, and spray it on the entire plant, both to wash away the pests and to ensure they cannot return. For a heavy localised infestation cut off the affected parts and dispose of them. References 1. Freesia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331198-2
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Roy Nicol On Winter Flowering Bulbs (And When To Plant Them)
IN THIS GUIDE Selecting Winter Flowering Bulbs 1) Glory of the Snow (Forbes’ Squill) 2) Crocus 3) Eastern Cyclamen 4) Daffodils 5) Early Bulbous Iris 6) Siberian Squill 7) Snowdrops 8) Winter Aconite Winter flowering bulbs can provide a much-needed splash of colour and a mite of cheer to an otherwise drab display during the colder months of the year. Characterised by short days and long nights, winter can become something of a slog for green-fingered enthusiasts. Not only does the inclement weather prevent you from getting your hands dirty, but it also often kills off the carefully cultivated growth that you’ve fostered throughout the year. That can leave your garden looking rather forlorn and forgotten, especially when branches are bare and lawns are covered in a blanket of snow. However, by selecting the appropriate bulbs and planting them with adequate preparation time, you can ensure that colourful blooms brighten up your garden just when it (and perhaps you!) need it the most. Selecting Winter Flowering Bulbs Thankfully, there are a wide variety of winter flowering species to choose from, all of which are far hardier than their fair-weather counterparts and will often survive the frosts of the season to surge back resilient next year. The following selection includes just some of the options open to you, all of which should be planted at least a couple of months before the first frost to give them the best chance of survival. Others will require you plant them into the soil as early as summertime to allow them to properly establish themselves. If any doubt, read the label which came with your bulbs or else ask for advice at your local gardening centre. 1) Glory of the Snow (Forbes’ Squill) BOTANICAL NAME: Chionodoxa HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED WHEN TO PLANT: SEPTEMBER – OCTOBER FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – APRIL It’s not known as ‘Glory of the Snow’ for nothing! This starry-shaped early bloomer will unfold its delicate blue petals long before any of your spring-flowering selection consider braving the elements. Chionodoxa should be planted in early autumn (September is ideal) in well-draining soil and in full exposure to the sun. It also works decidedly well underneath deciduous trees or shrubs, since its propensity for February blooming means that it will emerge before the foliage above it has time to spring forth and block its sunlight. 2) Crocus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED WHEN TO PLANT: SEPTEMBER – OCTOBER FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – MARCH Crocus bulbs are actually known as corms and produce vibrant bursts of purple, white and yellow from late winter through to mid-spring. They’re easy-going plants that can be planted anytime between August and November, thriving best in full sun and well-drained soil. They’re also a welcome source of nectar for bees and other pollinators just emerging from their hibernation cycles – but be aware that rodents also enjoy their foliage, so plant them next to less tasty offerings (like hyacinths) to deter unwanted snacking. 3) Eastern Cyclamen BOTANICAL NAME: Cyclamen coum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED WHEN TO PLANT: SEPTEMBER – OCTOBER FLOWERING MONTHS: DECEMBER – MARCH With their first flowers appearing in the depths of January, Cyclamen coum is one of the hardiest species of winter-flowering bulbs. Don’t let that fool you, though; it’s also one of the most impressive you can incorporate into your winter arrangements. The stunning variegated foliage, combining slivers of silver alongside a deep dark green, plays backdrop to the deceptively dainty pink, white and red blossoms. Plant it in September and October in moist soil, but don’t let its leaves get overly wet or they may succumb to rot. 4) Daffodils BOTANICAL NAME: NARCISSUS HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY WHEN TO PLANT: SEPTEMBER FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – MARCH Easily recognisable by their trumpet-like blooms and profound shades of white and yellow, daffodils come in a variety of different species which are sure to complement any existing aesthetic you have in your garden. Most of them will bloom from March onwards, but some, such as ‘February Gold’, will brave the elements even earlier. They should be planted sometime in autumn (September to November, though an earlier date will normally precipitate an earlier bloom) in full sun and well-drained soil. Once the flower show is over, deadhead the plant and allow the foliage to die back naturally so that it can re-emerge triumphant the following year. 5) Early Bulbous Iris BOTANICAL NAME: Iris reticulata HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED WHEN TO PLANT: SEPTEMBER – OCTOBER FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – MARCH Irises have long been associated with French monarchy, thanks to their starring role as the “fleur-de-lis” on many royal fripperies and fancies. While most varieties wait until summer to put on a show, certain species, like the Iris reticulata pictured above, will blossom in late winter. Regardless of variety, bulbs should be planted in the autumn months and are quite fussy about their location – it must be well-draining and in full view of the sun. Comply with those conditions, however, and you’ll be rewarded with spectacular purple and blue petals with a yellow splash in each centre in late February or early March. 6) Siberian Squill BOTANICAL NAME: Scilla siberica HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY WHEN TO PLANT: SEPTEMBER – OCTOBER FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – APRIL A native of Russia and the Caucasus region, Scilla siberica knows a thing or two about withstanding wintry temperatures. Indeed, its origins in Siberia mean that it’s well-equipped to handle even the worst ravages of the British climate and will do just fine in almost all soil types. Get it in the ground from September to November to enjoy its delicately drooping bell-shaped blooms and slim, straplike leaves as early as March. It’s a willing self-seeder and will propagate into large clumps with the minimum of assistance. 7) Snowdrops BOTANICAL NAME: Galanthus nivalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED WHEN TO PLANT: AUGUST – SEPTEMBER FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – MARCH Snowdrops are the archetypal flower that springs to mind when considering bulbs that bloom in winter. With its iconic drooping white petals and dainty, slender stalks, it’s almost an image of the season itself. There are a wide variety of Galanthus available these days, with galanthophiles falling over themselves to pay top dollar for just one bulb. However, there’s no need to break the bank to get your hands on species like “Flore Pleno”, which will take root wherever you sprinkle them. Get them in the ground in October and November to enjoy a spectacular and natural-looking display come late winter. 8) Winter Aconite BOTANICAL NAME: Eranthis hyemalis HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY WHEN TO PLANT: SEPTEMBER – OCTOBER FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – FEBRUARY So, technically speaking, winter aconite is a tuber, not a bulb – but it shares many of the same characteristics and demands much the same in the way of planting and maintenance. “These fussy plants can be a little difficult to establish, which is why it might be an idea to either plant them in pots initially before transplanting them to the ground once they’ve fully taken root, or plant them ‘in the green’ in February,” recommends Horticulturist Roy Nicol. They should then deliver your reward in the shape of February or March blooms. And when it does arrive, you’ll soon see it was worth the effort. Characterised by delicate cups of brilliant yellow atop a ruff of bright green foliage, winter aconites look for all the world like buttercups enjoying a winter holiday.
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Grow Spicy Cayenne Peppers With These Little Known Care Tips From Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Cayenne Peppers? Cayenne Varieties How To Grow Cayenne Peppers Cayenne Pepper Care Harvesting Cayenne Peppers References If you like heat in cooking, Cayenne peppers could be a good crop to grow. Cayenne peppers are a type of chilli pepper, Capsicum annuum. It is related to other types of peppers including jalapenos, pimientos and bell peppers. As part of the Capsicum genus, these peppers are all within the Solanaceae or nightshade family – which means that they are also more distantly related to tomatoes, potatoes, aubergines and more.1 Overview Botanical Name Capsicum annuum Plant Type Fruit / Vegetable Native Area American subtropics and tropics Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Annual crop Flowers Small white flowers from which fruits form When To Sow (Indoors) January, February, March, April, May, June Harvesting Months July, August, September They are a short-lived perennial in their native subtropical and tropical climes, but in temperate climate zones like the UK, are usually grown as an annual crop. The fruits of these plants are mostly skinny and red, with a curved tip, though there are also some yellow and purple fruited cultivars. Interestingly, these fruits hang from the stems of the plant, rather than growing upright like some other chilli pepper varieties. Spiciness & Flavour There are a number of different named cultivars of Cayenne peppers, which are prized for their spiciness and flavour. Scoville heat units are used to describe the heat of chilli peppers and most varieties of Cayenne pepper fall within the range of 30,000-50,000 Scoville heat units.2 This puts them more or less in the middle of the range when it comes to pungency. While most Cayenne peppers are moderately hot, there are some milder variants. The fruits are often dried and powdered to create cayenne powder, which is used in pest control, and in many spicy dishes. Why Grow Cayenne Peppers? Growing spicy chilli peppers is a must for those who like heat in their cooking. Cayenne peppers may also repel certain insect pests while in active growth – and the powder is sometimes sprinkled as a deterrent to rodents around winter or early spring crops. Cayenne Varieties C. annuum ‘Cayenne Red’ C. annuum var. annuum ‘Ring of Fire’ C. annuum var. annuum (Longum Group) C. annuum var. annuum ‘Golden Cayenne’ C. annuum ‘Cayenne Sweet’ And a few more interesting types that may be of interest to grow: C. chinense ‘Carolina Reaper’ C. annuum var. annuum ‘Chocolate Bell’ C. annuum ‘Las Cruces Cayenne’ How To Grow Cayenne Peppers Cayenne peppers are typically grown in climates much warmer than our own. Temperature To grow them successfully here in the UK, you will usually have to grow them indoors or undercover in a greenhouse or polytunnel. Though this species sometimes tolerates a little light frost, they will not normally do well outside in a typical British summer. Occasionally, however, in warmer, southern parts of the country, it may be possible to grow outdoors in a very warm, protected and sheltered spot. Soil Requirements Cayenne peppers, like other peppers, grow best in a moist yet free-draining sandy or loamy soil, which is slightly acidic. They can also be grown in pots as long as these are filled with a moist yet free-draining, relatively fertile growing medium. Companion Planting In terms of companion planting, some good plants to grow with cayenne are said to include aubergines, okra and basil – in fact, any aromatic herb would make for ideal bedfellows – as well as working in harmony in the kitchen. Peppers can be planted alongside tomatoes, but as joint members of the Nightshade family, a well-adhered crop rotation plan is necessary, to prevent issues with diseases that these two plants share in common. You should include as many different companion plants as possible when growing tomatoes and peppers together in the same planting scheme. Sowing Cayenne Seeds Like other peppers, Cayenne peppers are best sown indoors in the UK early in the year to ensure a worthwhile crop by the end of our relatively short growing season. The challenge with this is that you will have to make sure that you provide enough heat for seeds to germinate. You will also need to ensure that the indoors grown seedlings get enough heat, water and light before the weather warms and you can move them to their final growing position (perhaps in a greenhouse or polytunnel). As a rough rule of thumb, pepper seeds, along with tomato seeds, are usually sown around 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Remember, a greenhouse or polytunnel may be reliably frost-free a few weeks before the rest of your garden, so you may be able to sow a little earlier if you will be growing undercover. It is important to make sure that you provide high enough temperatures for germination to take place. All pepper seeds will typically need consistent temperatures of between 18-25°C for the best germination rates, and will not usually germinate at all if temperatures fall below 16°C. It can be a good idea to use a heated propagator, or to provide some gentle bottom heat to ensure that you get the best results when sowing seeds. After sowing your seeds in a suitable seed-starting potting mix, the seeds should germinate within around 2-3 weeks. Legginess Seedlings can become leggy in low light conditions, so it may be beneficial to use grow lights when sowing early indoors. Prick out the pepper seedlings once they become large enough to handle, then place them into their own individual pots. Water your Cayenne pepper seedlings consistently but do not overwater – keep them in as bright a spot as possible until you can harden off your young plants and, if not continuing to grow indoors, plant them out into your greenhouse or polytunnel. Planting Cayenne Peppers Hold off placing your Cayenne pepper plants into an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel until you are certain that all risk of frost has passed (at least within the structures). If a late frost or cold temperatures are suddenly forecast, you can consider protecting the plants with additional cloches or row covers. If growing in the ground or a raised bed, peppers should be planted around 40-60cm apart in a row, or 1 per square foot in a denser polyculture planting scheme – though these spacing suggestions are just guidelines and spacing can differ depending on your specific approach. Be sure to consider companion planting and crop rotation when deciding where to place your peppers – and protect the soil around the plants by mulching around your planted peppers with an organic mulch. A mulch of balanced homemade compost, for example, will get your Cayenne peppers off to a good start. Cayenne Pepper Care Cayenne peppers must be cared for carefully and like other peppers, can be rather fussy plants. One key thing to always remember is that the temperatures in the growing area must remain consistently above around 16-18°C for optimal results. You need to aim to provide as much sun and warmth as possible to reap a good harvest. Inconsistent temperatures can easily cause checks in growth and a range of other issues. Watering Another very important thing when it comes to caring for Cayenne peppers is water. The soil or growing medium must be kept consistently moist, but overwatering is not the solution as this can also cause issues. I find that issues with watering are often the cause of most problems when it comes to a pepper crop – so it is important to get into a good routine with watering, whilst not being too overbearing. Use your finger to check the moisture levels in the soil before watering; I have had a lot of success preventing waterlogging of the roots by bottom-watering with the use of trays. Feeding Like other peppers and tomatoes, Cayenne peppers will benefit from the slow-release fertiliser (and moisture control) of an organic mulch. As well as adding a mulch of compost or similar on planting, you should also consider adding a potassium-rich mulch of comfrey or other potassium-rich plant matter once the flowers and fruits begin to form. Feeding with a comfrey tea or other potassium-rich liquid feed during flowering and fruiting can also be beneficial – especially when growing Cayenne peppers in containers. Pruning A branched pepper plant is usually one that crops well,” says Peter Lickorish, Master Horticulturist. “To achieve branching, when young plants reach around 20-30cm high, cut or pinch out the top pair of leaves and growing tip. This will make the plant fork. “Producing flowers too early can also suppress growth longer term, so pinch off any flowers below 20-30cm high, as the plant establishes. “Gently tie in growing plants to canes, using a figure-of-eight loop of soft string, to help them carry a heavy crop of fruit.” Common Problems Aphids and scale can be common problems with pepper plants, especially those grown indoors or undercover. If growing indoors, it will be challenging to get rid of these through natural predation, though in a greenhouse or polytunnel, make sure the doors are open and you are attracting ladybirds and other beneficial insects to the space. With an extreme problem, you might consider using biological controls. These are natural predators or species which will harm the pests, and targeted types can be bought online. Fungal diseases like grey mould can also affect cayenne plants. Make sure you are watering correctly, and reduce high humidity by avoiding overcrowding and improving ventilation. Remain vigilant and remove any damaged plant parts before healthy tissue can become infected. Harvesting Cayenne Peppers Cayenne peppers will usually be ready to harvest from around 70-80 days after sowing, though of course this can vary depending on the precise conditions. Generally, you may begin harvesting ripe fruits around midsummer and can often continue to do so well into autumn. With Cayenne peppers, unlike with some other chilli peppers, you will not usually harvest the fruits at an immature stage but will wait until they are fully red (or reach their final colour for other varieties). You can then dry your Cayenne peppers in a dehydrator or in your oven – and grind the dried fruits into a powder that can be used in a wide range of different recipes. References 1. Capsicum annuum. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Capsicum+annuum 2. cayenne chile pepper database. (n.d.). The Chileman. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.thechileman.org/results.php?chile=1&find=cayenne&heat=Any&origin=Any&genus=Any&subscribe=Search;
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Compost vs Soil - They May Look Similar, But They’re Definitely Not The Same
IN THIS GUIDE What is Compost? What is Soil? Caring For Soil Why The Confusion? Choosing The Right Option Where to Use Compost Where to Use ‘Potting Soils’ Container Growing References Are you confused about the difference between compost and soil? You’re not alone. Learn about these two materials, and the reason for the confusion, in this simple guide. When looking at compost and soil, many people may just see ‘dirt’. But while compost and a soil may look similar, they are definitely not the same thing. Understanding what compost and soil are can help you to manage both composting systems and the soil effectively and organically in your garden. What is Compost? Compost is made up of decomposing and decomposed organic matter.1 In order to understand what this means, we need to delve a little deeper and talk about organic matter – Organic matter is: Something that both compost and healthy soil have in common. Derived from living things. In the simplest sense, it is dead plant matter, animals and animal waste. Present in both compost and soil. In essence, it can be helpful to think about organic matter as nature’s recycling system. When deciduous trees drop their leaves and herbaceous plants die back at the end of the year, the material is broken down through a range of processes on the soil surface. The nutrients those materials contain are fed back into the system. When we create compost, we are essentially trying to refine and shortcut that process. We can compost at home to turn biodegradable, compostable materials into a soil amendment and slow-release fertiliser which we can use in our gardens.2 What is Soil? While compost contains only organic matter in a state of decomposition (and the micro-organisms and other life that help break it down), the soil in your garden has a mineral component too. Healthy soil is made up of: Minerals (clay, silt, sand) Organic matter (to various degrees and in various states of decomposition) Water Air Organisms (from microscopic bacteria, fungi etc, to earthworms and other soil life) It is important to understand that soil is not simple. Soil is a complex ecosystem, a web of life with various fascinating and complex interactions.3 This is a natural phenomenon which is truly amazing, and something upon which all life on earth depends.4 Caring For Soil Taking care of the soil in your garden should be your number one priority as an organic gardener. Soil that is not cared for becomes degraded and depleted over time. All the elements in healthy soil work together to allow plant growth, which, in turn, allows us to grow too. Everything comes back to the soil. Adding compost to the natural soil in our gardens brings a range of benefits, both to us, as gardeners, and to the planet as a whole.5 This is one way to boost the soil organic matter, which raises the amount of carbon stored in the soil. Sequestering as much carbon as possible in the soil and in plants reduces the amount in the atmosphere, helping to combat global warming.6 Why The Confusion? When talking about homemade compost (which is added to soil) and soil itself, it is easy to see and understand the difference between these two materials. But confusion creeps in when we start to talk about the ‘potting soils’ or ‘potting composts’ that you can buy. “Compost is not a scientific term, so in horticulture, it is used to refer to a multitude of growing mediums as well as a process of breaking down garden waste to make a growing media,” shares Dan Ori, Horticultural Consultant and Instructor. “Because compost is not a scientific term, the interpretation of what true compost is could be said to be up to the individual. “For me, it will depend on the audience and the context of how I use the term compost. In the UK, I will normally refer to potting mix or growing media as ‘compost’ when giving a talk or workshop on the subject.” As Dan explains, the word compost is sometimes used to refer to ‘potting soils’ or ‘multipurpose composts’, but it should be noted that these are really rather different. A compost, as mentioned above, is made up exclusively of decomposing and decomposed plant material (and the life that breaks those materials down). A potting soil usually contains a proportion of compost, but it also has other materials in the mix. Many potting soils will contain mineral constituents, like sand, for example. Bought potting mixes may also contain other ingredients, like perlite, vermiculite, or additional synthetic or organic fertilisers. The problem is that while commonly referred to as ‘composts’, multipurpose or all-purpose composts are often not pure composts at all. As well as containing the decomposed and decomposing organic matter, they also contain other things. Choosing The Right Option It is important to understand the difference between true compost, and ‘potting soil’ or ‘multi-purpose compost’. A true compost can be made up of a range of different decomposed and decomposing organic matter. You can purchase composts which are made from woody waste, coir, green municipal waste, and a range of other organic materials. Peat based mixes should be avoided for environmental reasons. For environmental reasons, it is also best to avoid mixes which contain mined, finite materials.7 The most sustainable and eco-friendly option is to make your own potting mixes and soil amendments for your garden. It is also important to understand that ‘potting soils’ are not really soils either – many of these potting mixes are soil-free. And those that are soil or loam-based only contain a small proportion of soil, which is sterilised and which shares only some of the characteristics of the real soil in your garden. Where to Use Compost True compost, whether you buy it in or make your own, is used to enrich the soil in a garden, or as a component of a homemade potting mix. It should not be used on its own as a medium for filling containers. It typically needs to be mixed with other materials to create a stable mix which has the right water retention, drainage and aeration characteristics. Remember, this true compost should not be confused with the ‘multi-purpose’ composts that can be bought, which often contain these other materials already. These are commonly used not only as a soil amendment but also to approximate the characteristics of healthy soil in pots and containers. But the additional materials used can sometimes come at a cost, and quality can vary considerably. So it is important to be informed and to make the right choices, for the planet as well as for you, and the plants in your garden. Where to Use ‘Potting Soils’ A potting mix is specifically designed for filling containers, and is not as beneficial when added to the soil in your garden. While we can try to approximate natural, healthy soil in containers in a garden, there really is no substitute for a real, healthy garden soil that we build and care for over time. Container Growing Where we are growing in containers, we can simply aim to get as close as we can to approximate optimal soil growing conditions. Whether we make or buy a potting mix, our goal is to create a mix which, like healthy soil, helps plants grow as well and as healthily as possible. Remember, you can avoid the environmental harm of bought composts and potting mixes by making your own from the organic materials already present in your garden. You can create healthy, organic mixes for filling containers and to replenish the fertility in your garden soil. Set up a composting system, and compost in place through mulching and other no-dig gardening methods. Cherish and care for the soil in your garden. And stay as close to nature as possible when you are not actually growing in the soil by making your own potting mixes or buying healthy, organic, non-harmful options. “The environmental benefit of using homemade composts is significant and I would always avoid the use of shop-bought products containing peat due to the environmental impact of harvesting from peat bogs,” adds Dan. Sticking to real compost and real soil is often the best option of all. References 1. Composting. (n.d.-b). University of Illinois. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://extension.illinois.edu/soil/composting 2. Reducing the Impact of Wasted Food by Feeding the Soil and Composting. (2023, February 15). US EPA. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.epa.gov/sustainable-management-food/reducing-impact-wasted-food-feeding-soil-and-composting 3. A healthy soil is a living soil. (n.d.). Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.fao.org/soils-2015/news/news-detail/en/c/281917/ 4. Soil: the foundation of life on Earth. (2020, December 3). John Innes Centre. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.jic.ac.uk/advances/soil-the-foundation-of-life-on-earth/ 5. Cromell, C. (2016, March 26). Benefits of Adding Compost to Your Garden. Dummies. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dummies.com/article/home-auto-hobbies/garden-green-living/sustainability/composting/benefits-of-adding-compost-to-your-garden-194188/ 6. What is carbon sequestration? (2022, February 1). U.S. Geological Survey. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.usgs.gov/faqs/what-carbon-sequestration 7. The ethics of using peat. (2009, October 12). BBC Gardening. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/today_in_your_garden/ethical_peat.shtml
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Grow Opuntia 'Prickly Pear Cactus' Year-Round With These Environmental Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Why Grow Opuntia? How To Grow Prickly Pear Cactus Prickly Pear Cactus Care Troubleshooting Problems References A prickly pear cactus can be an interesting houseplant to grow, and can also be a drought-tolerant container plant for a patio over the summer months. There are many different prickly pear cacti which can be grown as houseplants or in a greenhouse under glass here in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Opuntia Common Name(s) Prickly Pear Cactus Plant Type Cacti / Houseplant Native Area Central & Northern Mexico Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Sometimes flowers depending on variety and conditions When To Sow (Indoors) Year-Round Prickly pear cacti are plants in the Opuntia genus. According to Kew records, there are 136 confirmed species within this genus, and a number of these can be grown as houseplants in the UK.1 Opuntia can come in a wide range of different forms and sizes – some grow no bigger than around 30cm in height, while others can eventually tower to over 5m. They usually have flattened pad-like stem sections with spines and barbs, and (when grown in optimal conditions) produce funnel-shaped flowers in various colours (typically pink, red or yellow) followed by fleshy, spiny and sometimes edible fruits. Common Varieties Let’s take a look at three of the Prickly Pear Cactus varieties most commonly grown as houseplants here in the UK: Polka Dot Cactus / Bunny Ears Botanical Name: Opuntia microdasys This is the most commonly grown Opuntia here in the British Isles. This small Opuntia grows to just 30-45cm tall, and has oval pads with tufts of small, golden spines. Small yellow flowers can also form though these appear only very rarely. It has gained the RHS Award of Garden Merit.2 Edible Prickly Pear Botanical Name: Opuntia ficus-indica This is the most common of the Opuntias cultivated for edible fruit. It is grown for these fruits, and also for the prickly pads which are eaten as a vegetable known as ‘nopales’ – which is commonly eaten as an ingredient in Mexican recipes.3 Unfortunately, the fruits are only produced when the growing conditions are absolutely perfect, and so you may not see them when growing the plant as a houseplant here in the UK. This vegetable is said to have a texture and flavour which resembles green beans. Many-Spined Prickly Pear Botanical Name: Opuntia polyacantha O. polyacantha is another option that can be grown indoors or in a greenhouse, and which can be placed outside over the summer months. This is a spreading cactus which can ultimately grow over 2m in width and to a height of around 40cm. The flattened pads are covered with areoles which have hairs and spines protruding from them. In summer the plant will often yield magenta flowers which bloom on the end of the flat pads. “When buying cacti, often you will see cacti for sale with flowers on,” shares Dan Ori, Horticultural Consultant. “Unfortunately, they are rarely real and have been glued on, so it is worth checking the blooms against pictures of what they should look like as the fake flowers normally look different.” Why Grow Opuntia? Opuntias make interesting houseplants and conversation pieces. They are relatively easy to care for indoors, and can often be placed outside over the summer months. Like other cacti, they do not have high water needs, and are relatively low maintenance. Grow an edible type and you might also be able to achieve edible yields from your interesting houseplants too. How To Grow Prickly Pear Cactus Prickly pear cactus will usually be grown as houseplants or greenhouse plants here in the UK. Though they are relatively easy to care for, providing the right conditions where they are growing is crucial for the best results. Temperature Requirements Prickly pear cacti must be grown in an environment in which temperatures do not fall below 10°C. Ideally, the plant should receive temperatures in summer of at least 18°C. Remember, these are desert plants, which enjoy warmth. While you can place these cacti outdoors in a sunny and sheltered spot in summer, you will certainly need to move them indoors or undercover for the winter months; be sure to make this move in early autumn. If growing indoors year-round, a prickly pear cactus should be moved to a cooler spot (10-13°C) in the winter to encourage flowering. You should keep your prickly pear cactus away from direct heat sources such as radiators or stoves, and also away from draughts and fans which cause temperature fluctuations. Light Requirements Prickly pear cacti should be grown in a bright spot that gets as much light as possible. However, you should shield it from strong, direct sunlight in the summer. A south-facing or west-facing windowsill can be ideal, and the plants should get 4-6 hours of direct sunshine in the summer months. A heated greenhouse with good, all-round light can also work well. Potting Up When potting up a prickly pear cactus, choose a container which is the same size as, or only very slightly bigger than, the rootball. Make sure that the pot allows for free-drainage and has a hole or holes at the base. It is a good idea to use a terracotta pot for cacti and succulents as these will not retain moisture as much as plastic pots. Growing Medium Like other desert cacti, it is important to use a very free-draining growing medium. You can use a multipurpose compost with added John Innes with added extra grit. Better yet, you can use a potting mix that has been specifically formulated for cacti and succulents. Top dress the container with a layer of gravel, pebbles or a decorative cover. Prickly Pear Cactus Care Watering While prickly pears are cacti and obviously, as desert plants, can cope with drought and dry conditions, do not make the mistake of thinking that they do not need to be watered at all. Though these plants can survive long periods without much water, by storing the water in their stems, they will grow better and are more likely to flower (and fruit) when they are provided with adequate water supplies. Between April and September, you should water moderately whenever the growing medium is dry. However, you should limit watering during the dormancy period, when the plant is not growing during autumn and winter. Watering just once a month or so should be sufficient during this time. It is very important to make sure that when you water, the water drains through freely. The cactus should never be allowed to sit with its roots in water – and make sure you do not leave water sitting below the base of the pot. Feeding For best results, you should feed your prickly pear cactus with a specialist cactus fertiliser once every two months from spring through to early autumn. But do not feed your plants over the autumn and winter months. Propagation Once you have perfected the care of your prickly pear cactus, it is relatively easy for you to propagate your existing plant and expand your houseplant collection. You can propagate Opuntia by seed, but by far the easiest way to propagate them is by taking cuttings. Take care when handling your plants as of course the spines and prickles can do quite a lot of damage to your hands if you do not. It is best to wear gloves and also to use tweezers or some tongs when taking cuttings. “I use kitchen tongs with silicone ends to handle all my cacti as they a strong enough to manipulate the plant but soft enough to reduce the chance of damage,” shares Dan. To take cuttings from a prickly pear cactus: Choose a healthy section of stem, at least 10cm long. Cut this off cleanly with a sharp, sterilised knife. Leave this stem section on a windowsill and leave it until the cut surface has healed over. Once the callus has formed, place the cutting upright, around 2cm deep in a 7cm or 9cm pot filled with cactus growing medium. Water well, then place the pot in a sunny, warm location, though ideally not in direct sunlight. Keep an eye on the cutting and water whenever the compost feels dry, and your new cactus plant should have rooted within around 4 weeks. Troubleshooting Problems Many of the issues you see with your prickly pear cactus as you care for it are likely to be related to the conditions in which you are growing it, or problems with watering. Shrivelled leaves – You have likely watered too little. Rotting – Overwatering is usually to blame. Drainage may also be insufficient. Splitting pads – Overwatering or insufficient drainage again. Reduce watering and improve drainage and the splits should heal over. Brown or white patches – This is sunburn – move the plant out of direct sunlight in the hottest part of the summer. You may also see scale insects or mealybugs, but you should be able to carefully wipe these away with water, or an organic insecticide if there is a larger infestation. Just take care around the plant as the small spines can be spiky. References 1. Opuntia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002080-2#children 2. AGM Ornamental Plants. (2021, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf 3. MasterClass. (2022, July 18). How to Cook Nopal: Mexican Ensalada de Nopales Recipe. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/nopales-salad-recipe
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Tired Of Typical Red Toms? Grow Yellow And Orange Tomatoes With These Varieties
IN THIS GUIDE 1) ‘Galina’ 2) ‘Gold Nugget’ 3) ‘Golden Cherry’ 4) ‘Golden Crown’ 5) ‘Golden Sunrise’ 6) ‘Honeycomb’ 7) ‘Ildi’ 8) ‘Jen’s Tangerine’ 9) ‘Lemon Grape’ 10) ‘Orange Paruche’ 11) ‘Pear Drop’ 12) ‘Sun Baby’ 13) ‘Sungold’ 14) ‘Tumbling Tom Yellow’ 15) ‘Golden Queen’ 16) ‘White Cherry’ 17) ‘Yellow Submarine’ Colourful Toms References There are plenty of interesting tomato varieties out there to choose from and with all these great yellow and orange varieties, you don’t just have to stick to typical red toms – you can grow a rainbow in your garden. Though there are far too many yellow and orange tomato varieties to include them all in just one article, below you will find a selection of seventeen interesting options to consider. Orange and yellow tomatoes often have a great flavour, but will also enrich your garden with their glowing, summery hues. These bright yellow and orange types will look great on the plant, and also add colour and taste to summer salads and other recipes. 1) ‘Galina’ SOW: MARCH – APRIL PLANT: LATE MAY HARVEST: JULY – NOVEMBER This is a high-yielding yellow cherry tomato that can also be a good choice for UK growers. A heritage variety, ‘Galina’ is an indeterminate type, well suited to growing further north, It comes from Siberia and so is a great choice for those with a cold climate and a short growing season. One of the great things about these is that they start producing early, and also continue to crop until late in the year. Since this is a heritage variety, you can save your own seeds to plant the following year. 2) ‘Gold Nugget’ Image Credit: Mr Fothergills1 AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT SOW: MARCH – MAY PLANT: JUNE – JULY HARVEST: AUGUST – NOVEMBER Tender-skinned and tangy, ‘Gold Nugget’ could also be a good choice. These slightly oval-shaped cherry tomatoes are a brilliant yellow hue. This is a determinate variety with a compact and bushy growth habit. It crops reliably especially undercover here in the UK, and has been awarded an RHS Award of Garden Merit. This heirloom was bred in Oregon in the US specifically for colder climates. “I only grow heirloom tomatoes,” shares Gardener Deisgner Lucy Hutchings. “I don’t grow any hybrids at all, as I don’t think there’s any point and there’s not enough reward if you’re growing for yourself and not farming them.” 3) ‘Golden Cherry’ SOW: FEBRUARY – MARCH PLANT: MAY – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – SEPTEMBER ‘Golden Cherry’ has beautiful orange cherry tomatoes, as the name suggests. This is a cultivar from Japan which is highly rated for its outstanding flavour, resistance to splitting, and performance. This is another F1 variety, which is best cordoned and which can outcompete even the famous Sungold (see below) on flavour. 4) ‘Golden Crown’ SOW: JANUARY – APRIL PLANT: APRIL – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – OCTOBER ‘Golden Crown’, also known as Goldkrone, is another excellent yellow cherry tomato variety to try. They do very well under glass but can also grow well outdoors. People prize this variety too for its excellent flavour, thin skins and reliably good cropping. Choosing this tomato cultivar is another way to bring a splash of sunshine to your garden. 5) ‘Golden Sunrise’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT SOW: JANUARY – APRIL PLANT: APRIL – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – OCTOBER This is another golden tomato variety to consider growing in your garden. Another cordon type, ‘Golden Sunrise’ produces attractive, medium-sized orange fruit which has a distinctive taste and balanced flavour – making them useful for colourful summer salads. 6) ‘Honeycomb’ SOW: FEBRUARY – MAY PLANT: MAY – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – NOVEMBER This golden coloured cherry tomato variety is another great option to consider. These fruits have a higher Brix rating (sugar content) than the famous ‘Sungold’. They are extremely sweet when fully ripe, and are said to have a honey-like aftertaste. They yield best in a greenhouse or polytunnel, cordoned, and are very reliable (though perhaps not as high yielding as Sungold and other varieties). The fruit splits less frequently than ‘Sungold’. As an F1 hybrid, they also have a small amount of blight resistance. 7) ‘Ildi’ SOW: FEBRUARY – MARCH PLANT: APRIL – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – OCTOBER A small elongated, pear-shaped, yellow cherry tomato, ‘Ildi’ is a great choice to consider growing in hanging baskets or containers. The fruits are sweet and are fantastic for eating raw and for using in salads. They can be perfect for growing on a sunny patio, even if you do not have a very big garden. 8) ‘Jen’s Tangerine’ Image Credit: The Nettle Patch2 SOW: FEBRUARY – APRIL PLANT: MAY – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – OCTOBER This orange-coloured heritage tomato originated from the breeding program of mountain market gardener Jen Bonyck. Many UK gardeners have had great success with this cultivar. The fruits are large for a cherry type – around 3.5-4cm across. They have a balanced flavour and are produced prolifically over a relatively long growing season – starting to produce early and continuing on well into the autumn in the right conditions. 9) ‘Lemon Grape’ SOW: MARCH – APRIL PLANT: APRIL – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – OCTOBER The Lemon grape tomato (Cytrynek Groniasty) is a Polish variety that produces lovely mini-plum tomatoes in abundance on cordons. The fruits last well without splitting, and they have a great flavour too. This could be another more unusual tomato cultivar to consider growing in your greenhouse, polytunnel, or elsewhere in your garden. 10) ‘Orange Paruche’ Image Credit: Bucket Hydroponics3 SOW: FEBRUARY – MARCH PLANT: APRIL – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – OCTOBER Another F1 variety of tomato, ‘Orange Paruche’ has, as the name implies, deep orange tomatoes. These are very flavoursome and fruits appear very early in the year, which is great for those with a short growing season. Some say that these are now one of the tastiest orange cherry tomatoes around. 11) ‘Pear Drop’ SOW: MARCH – JUNE PLANT: MAY – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – NOVEMBER If you are short on space and are looking for a trailing, compact, bushy tomato variety for hanging baskets or containers, then ‘Pear Drop’ could be a good option to consider. The yellow-orange fruits produced on this cultivar are tasty and produced in abundance. 12) ‘Sun Baby’ SOW: FEBRUARY – MARCH PLANT: APRIL – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – OCTOBER ‘Sun Baby’ is a top cherry tomato variety. Though it is not the heaviest of croppers, the yellow fruits have excellent flavour and thin skins. They can be grown indoors in a greenhouse or polytunnel, but can also crop pretty well outside here in the UK. 13) ‘Sungold’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT SOW: FEBRUARY – MAY PLANT: MAY – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – NOVEMBER ‘Sungold’ has long been by far one of the most popular tomato varieties grown in the UK. This orange cherry has been extremely popular since being introduced to UK gardeners in the early 1990s. Its high Brix (sweetness rating) and great flavour have no doubt been the main reason for its popularity. As you can see above, there are plenty of other options said to rival this variety. But as a tried and tested favourite with an RHS AGM, this is certainly one option to consider. 14) ‘Tumbling Tom Yellow’ SOW: MARCH – JUNE PLANT: MAY – JULY HARVEST: JUNE – OCTOBER Tumbling Tom tomatoes come in both yellow and red versions. Tumbling Toms are known to be one of the best tomatoes for a hanging basket or another hanging container. These plants produce cherry tomatoes which cascade down around the edges of your basket or container. They are sweet and delicious – the yellow version is somewhat slower growing than the red one, but brings a welcome sunny glow to your garden. 15) ‘Golden Queen’ Image Credit: Bosavern Community Farm4 SOW: JANUARY – MARCH PLANT: MAY – JUNE HARVEST: JULY – OCTOBER 16) ‘White Cherry’ Image Credit: Bosavern Community Farm5 SOW: JANUARY – MARCH PLANT: MAY – JUNE HARVEST: AUGUST – OCTOBER 17) ‘Yellow Submarine’ Image Credit: Bosavern Community Farm6 SOW: JANUARY – MARCH PLANT: MAY – JUNE HARVEST: JUNE – OCTOBER Colourful Toms These are just some of the many yellow and orange tomato varieties that it is definitely worthwhile considering growing in your garden. And once you have explored these options, you might also like to consider fruits with other colours and interesting patinations. When choosing a tomato variety, remember that there is more to consider than just colour, as Gardener Hannah Reid shares: “My favourite varieties are ‘San Marzano’, ‘Rosella Jumbo’ and ‘Firecracker’. ‘Rosella Jumbo’ is the most amazing rose colour (it almost shimmers), whilst ‘Firecracker’ are also lovely colourful tomatoes that are amazing for producing a high yield – last year I was harvesting up to 60 fruits off one plant! “‘San Marzano’ are great-sized tomatoes that make delicious sauces.” “In addition to the amazing range of cherry tomatoes, yellow and orange varieties of heirloom beef tomatoes such as ‘Brandywine Yellow’ and ‘Valencia’ are also worth a try for their delicious taste in salads or tomato sauces,” adds Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. But by exploring tomato varieties of different hues, you can learn more about all the interesting hybrid and heritage options available, and branch out to try new varieties to grow at home. Just be sure to choose varieties suitable for growing in the climate, microclimate and other conditions in your particular garden. References 1. Tomato (Cherry) Gold Nugget Vegetable Seeds. (n.d.). Mr Fothergill’s. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.mr-fothergills.co.uk/RHS-Tomato-Gold-Nugget 2. Freezing Tomatoes. (2013, October 16). The Nettle Patch. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://greengreengoddess.wordpress.com/2013/10/16/freezing-tomatoes/ 3. Tomato – Orange Paruche. (2016, February 19). Bucket Hydroponics. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://buckethydroponics.wordpress.com/2016/02/19/tomato-orange-paruche/ 4. Tomatoes. (2015, September 27). Bosavern Community Farm. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://bosaverncommunityfarm.blogspot.com/2015/09/tomatoes-2015.html 5. Tomatoes. (2015, September 27). Bosavern Community Farm. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://bosaverncommunityfarm.blogspot.com/2015/09/tomatoes-2015.html 6. Tomatoes. (2015, September 27). Bosavern Community Farm. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://bosaverncommunityfarm.blogspot.com/2015/09/tomatoes-2015.html
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How To Add A Pear Tree (Or Two!) To Your Garden For Early, Mid Or Late-Season Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Pear Tree Varieties Pollination Planting A Pear Tree Creating A Guild Pear Tree Care Harvesting Pears References Adding a pear tree or two to your garden could be an excellent choice. If you love to eat pears, you might be able to grow your very own supply of these fruits in your garden. Pear trees are native to mild areas across Europe.1 These trees sit in the Pyrus genus, which is in the Rosaceae plant family along with roses, and many species of edible fruit such apricot, nectarine and more.2 Around 3,000 varieties of pear are grown and eaten around the world.3 Overview Botanical Name Pyrus communes Common Name(s) Pear Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area Temperate Europe Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White blossom When To Plant April, May, September, October Harvesting Months September, October, November The pear is a pome fruit, like the medlar and the quince for example. The most important species of Pyrus used for orchard and garden cultivars in Europe, North America and Australia is Pyrus communis – the European pear. Though pear trees are not quite as hardy as apples, they can be grown across much of the UK, and in fact, need some winter chilling to produce fruit. Pear Tree Varieties ‘Conference’ Of the various cultivars of pear trees grown in the UK, some of the options to consider are: ‘Beth’ ‘Beurre Hardy’ ‘Concord’ ‘Conference’ ‘Doyenne du Comice’ ‘Flower of Monorgan’ ‘Grey Auchan’ ‘Invincible’ ‘Jargonelle’ ‘Longueville’ ‘Louise Bonne of Jersey’ ‘Maggie’ ‘Merton Pride’ ‘Onward’ ‘Seckle’ ‘Seggie Den’ ‘Pitmaston Duchesse’ ‘Williams Bonne Chrétienne’ ‘Winter Nellis’ When choosing a pear tree it should be noted that some of the above will be suitable for northern England and Scotland, while other varietals will really only thrive in the south. It is a good idea to consider heritage varieties from your particular area. When choosing a pear, you might also like to think about how the different varietals compare when it comes to taste, and whether you are looking for eating or cooking pears. ‘Doyenne du Comice’ You should also consider whether you would like an early, mid-season or late-season pear. Pollination Remember, too, that yields will usually be better if you plant two cultivars from the same flowering period (pollination group) or ones that have an overlapping flowering period. Some pears are also poor pollinators and so two additional trees will usually be required to pollinate this tree, and each other. “You will normally find when buying a pear tree from a UK garden centre or nursery that it is on one of two rootstock types, Quince A and Quince C,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “A Quince C rootstock pear can be trained into a dwarf pyramid, bush, cordon, espalier and fan form. Quince C rootstocks can be a good choice when growing in a large container. “Regardless of form, you will need to keep trees on this rootstock staked or supported permanently. “A Quince A rootstock pear can be trained into a dwarf pyramid, bush, cordon, double and multiple cordons, pole, espalier, fan and semi-standard form. This rootstock tolerates average soil but thrives better in rich soils. “Quince A trees may only need to be staked or supported for the first 5 years if you are not growing in a trained form.” Planting A Pear Tree One important thing to note when deciding where to place new pear trees is that they flower pretty early, and so their blossom can be damaged by spring frosts. It is important to choose a location that is not in a frost pocket, and which is as warm and sheltered as possible – especially if you live further north. It can be a good idea to position a pear tree close to or against a sunny south or west-facing wall. You should grow a pear tree in fertile, moist but well-drained or well-drained soil or growing medium. Pear trees can be grown as half-standard trees in gardens where space is not an issue. Where space is limited, growing pears in bush-trained forms, as fans, espaliers, pyramid or cordon forms can allow pear trees to be grown even in much smaller spaces. Smaller pear trees can also be grown in containers, providing that these are of sufficient size. When To Plant Pear trees can be purchased in pots throughout the year, but are best planted out in spring or autumn, when the ground is not waterlogged nor too dry, and the weather is not too hot. However, it is cheaper, and often the best idea, to purchase and plant bare-root pear trees during the dormant period, between late autumn and early spring. Late summer or early autumn is a good time to choose and order pear trees for your garden. How To Plant Once your pear tree or trees arrive, plant out as soon as possible. Make sure you have prepared a suitable site for your new garden additions. As with other fruit trees, you should dig a planting hole as deep as the rootball and twice as wide. It is a good idea to incorporate some compost and perhaps some mycorrhizal fungi into the planting hole to aid establishment. Refill the soil then water in well – add an organic mulch around the base of the tree and stake or add a protective collar if necessary. Creating A Guild In an organic garden, it is a good idea to create a guild of beneficial companion plants around your pear tree. A well-chosen guild will help you keep your pear tree healthy, and boost the yields that you are able to achieve. The plants in a guild are chosen because they confer certain benefits without creating too much competition for your new tree. The plants chosen for a guild might: Yield environmental benefits – keeping the soil covered to reduce moisture losses, for example. Add fertility – nitrogen fixers add nitrogen while in growth or when chopped and dropped around the base of the tree. Deep-rooted plants can often dynamically accumulate other nutrients from the deeper soil which pear trees cannot reach. These can also be chopped and dropped around the tree, or left to die back or drop their leaves each winter to naturally return nutrients to the surface of the soil. Attract pollinators and ensure good fruit set. Attract other beneficial wildlife like predatory insects – these help keep pest numbers down and the ecosystem in balance. Repel, confuse or distract pest species. For example, around a pear tree you might plant: Comfrey – deep-rooted dynamic accumulator, attracts pollinators. White clover – nitrogen fixing, ground cover. Herbs (e.g. yarrow, borage, tansy, angelica, thyme etc..) for beneficial attraction and pest control. Alliums (e.g. chives, perennial edible onions, ornamental alliums) for pest control. Early spring flowers and bulbs for nutrient retention and pollination services early in the year. Of course, there are many other options you could consider. Pear Tree Care Watering Pear trees in the ground will need watering during dry periods until they become established. After they are established, they will need to be watered only during prolonged periods of drought. Of course, pear trees grown in containers will require more regular watering. Feeding Replenishing your organic mulch around your tree, creating a guild around it, and chopping and dropping plant material from this guild over time should be sufficient to keep your pear tree happy, healthy and productive. If growing a pear tree in a container, you should scoop out and replace the top third of the potting mix every year to replenish the nutrients it contains. Common Problems Pears can be susceptible to a number of pests and diseases. Some common pests include aphids, caterpillars, codling moths, pear midge, pear blister mite and pear slugworm. Pear trees can succumb to diseases such as pear scab, pear rust, blossom wilt, brown rot, and fireblight. Making sure that you choose the right location for your tree, watering and pruning correctly, and ensuring healthy biodiversity in your garden can all help keep issues to a minimum. But make sure you keep a close eye on your pear tree so you can deal with any problems swiftly if they do occur. Harvesting Pears Most pears in the UK will be ready to harvest sometime in September. Pears are picked just before they have ripened fully – the flesh should feel firm and the fruit should have demonstrated a recent (though slight) change in colour. Pears that you have harvested should then be stored for a period before eating. Early varieties will usually be ready to eat within a week or two, but later varieties may need much longer, even months, before they are ready to eat. The tips above should help you understand the basics – over time, you will learn more about your own particular pear tree or trees and the best strategies to employ. References 1. Pear (Pyrus communis). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/pear/ 2. Petruzzello, M. (2014, November 19). List of plants in the family Rosaceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Rosaceae-2001612 3. Pears. (2021, September 27). FoodPrint. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://foodprint.org/real-food/pears/
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This Is How To Grow Angelica - Ideal For Herb Gardens, Hedgerows Or Woodland Areas
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Why Grow Angelica? How To Grow Angelica Sowing Planting Out Angelica Care Harvesting Division References Angelica is a useful herb to grow in your garden and is great for a low-maintenance scheme. This woodland edge or hedgerow plant is common in the ‘wild’ but can also be grown in gardens, where it can bring a huge range of benefits. This is an attractive plant in a wilder and more relaxed garden scheme, but besides its appearance, there are many more reasons to grow Angelica in your garden. Overview Botanical Name Angelica archangelica Common Name(s) Angelica, Angel’s Fishing Rod Plant Type Biennial Herb Native Area Eurasia / Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small blooms in various hues When To Sow August, September Plant Out April, May Harvesting Months March, April Native to Europe and naturalised in the British Isles, Angelica archangelica (garden angelica) is a biennial plant which is hardy throughout the UK and which is not frost tender.1 This is the plant most commonly referred to when people talk about Angelica. Angelica archangelica Angelica grows up to 1.5-2m in height and spread to create bushy clumps around 1m in diameter. It bears umbels of light yellow flowers in the early summer. Common Varieties There is also another useful species within this genus, Angelica sylvestris, or wild Angelica, which could also be a useful addition to your garden. Technically, both of these species are biennials, however, they can be perennial if they are prevented from going to seed. Angelica sylvestris And since you can harvest Angelicas for a range of uses prior to seed formation, this maintenance can be minimal and as easy as can be. There are also other non-European native Angelicas to consider. One that is commonly grown in a garden is Angelica gigas, for example. A. gigas Also known as Korean Angelica or giant Angelica, this is an attractive ornamental, with large purple flower umbels. There is also the East Asian Angelica edulis, with white flower umbels, and North American native Angelica atropurpurea, which has purple stems, to give just a few examples. Why Grow Angelica? Both garden Angelica and wild Angelica have many culinary uses. Garden Angelica’s leaves are eaten raw or cooked for a liquorice flavour in salads. They are also used as a mild natural sweetener, often alongside tart fruits or in jam-making. Both of these Angelicas are excellent wildlife-friendly plants and bring a wide range of beneficial pollinators and other insects to your garden. Other ornamental Angelicas like Korean Angelica do not have as many uses, but they can attract beneficial wildlife and make good cut flowers. How To Grow Angelica Garden Angelica will grow in dappled shade below trees, or in full sun. It requires deep, moist and fertile soil with an acidic, neutral or alkaline pH. Wild Angelica can also grow in similar conditions, though it is more shade tolerant and can cope well even in areas of somewhat deeper shade. Angelicas can be grown: In a dedicated herb garden. Alongside other perennial herbs, vegetables and flowers in a bed or border. Around the fringes of an annual vegetable garden. On the edge of a woodland area or beside a hedgerow. In a fruit tree guild or forest garden scheme. It is best to choose a sheltered spot, to avoid the need for the staking that is required in windy conditions, and to avoid any really hot or dry locations. Korean Angelica It works very well alongside other herbs which like similar conditions, like Alexanders, rue, meadowsweet, sorrels and herb patience, for example. Dill should not be grown close by to avoid cross-pollination. Angelicas’ ability to attract pollinators and predatory insects like lacewings and ladybirds makes it a great companion for a wide range of annual and perennial crops. “Angelica is an umbellifer, many of which have a characteristic dome or disc of flowers,” explains Colin Skelly, a horticulturist with years of experience in the field. “Think of Cow Parsley (Anthriscus sylvestris) or Hogweed (Heracleum sphondylium) on road verges; the easy access and plentiful nectar make this group of plants very popular with pollinators.” Sowing Angelica seeds are usually sown in a cold frame or another undercover area immediately once they are ripe, in late summer or early autumn, since the seeds typically only remain viable for a short period of time. You can also direct sow Angelica seeds where they are to grow as soon as they are mature. The seeds can also be sown in spring but germination rates will tend to be lower at this time of year. One key thing to remember when sowing Angelica is that the seeds need light for germination. So it is very important to place seeds on the surface of the soil or growing medium and to barely dust them over, or to leave them uncovered. Bury them too deeply and they may not germinate at all, or germination rates will suffer. Planting Out If you are not direct sowing, once the Angelica seeds germinate, and the seedlings are large enough to handle, they should be pricked out and potted up into their own pots. You can place these in a cold frame, polytunnel or unheated greenhouse, and watered to maintain moisture, but not overwatered over the winter months. These young Angelica plants should then be planted out into their final growing positions in the spring. Angelica Care Angelica is a relatively low-maintenance choice – great for busy gardeners. It requires little care, especially once established. It can be perennial if it’s not allowed to go to seed in its second year, and if you do decide to let it go to seed (which can be beneficial for the birds who like to eat them) then this is a plant that can self-seed readily – sometimes even so readily that it becomes a nuisance. Watering Young Angelica, especially while growing in pots and not in the ground, should be well-watered when grown undercover or during dry spells outdoors. Even mature plants might need to be kept well watered if rainfall is not sufficient, as dry conditions can increase the chances of diseases like powdery mildew taking hold. Feeding As long as it is grown in fertile soil, Angelicas should not need additional fertiliser. Add a mulch around your plants to maintain fertility and retain soil moisture over time. Common Problems Aside from powdery mildew, which can be a problem especially in dry conditions, Angelica is rarely troubled seriously by pests or disease. Look out for slugs and snails when the plants are still young and protect them where necessary. Later, Angelica attracts aphids, but since it also attracts those creatures which prey on aphids, like ladybirds and lacewings, this issue will usually balance itself out in a healthy garden and the Angelica will help you keep the beneficial wildlife around and the ecosystem in equilibrium. Harvesting Harvest the leaves and stems in the spring, while they are still young. Usually, these should be harvested before June. Division Mature Angelica plants in their second year can be cut back to the ground and dug up to make new plants in autumn. Divide the roots with a sharp knife and repot or replant the divisions right away where they are to grow. As you can see from the above, Angelicas can be a great choice for a productive, attractive, low-maintenance and wildlife-friendly garden. References 1. Garden Angelica. (n.d.). Plant Atlas. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://plantatlas2020.org/atlas/2cd4p9h.bkn
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