Growing
10 Plants Mosquitos HATE According To Horticulture Specialist Gary Bachman
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Basil 2) Bergamot 3) Catnip 4) Citronella 5) Eucalyptus 6) Lavender 7) Lemongrass 8) Marigolds 9) Mint 10) Rosemary References Keep those pesky insects at bay with these mosquito-repellent plants. Perhaps the most notorious of all members of the insect kingdom, in the UK, there are 34 known species, and though they don’t carry the same maladies as in other parts of the globe, they can certainly be quite the nuisance. Indeed, their pesky presence during the summertime can turn basking in the sun from an indulgence into an ordeal for many British homeowners. According to research by MSU Horticulture specialist Gary Bachman and various authors at the USA National Institute of Health, some of the best plants to help to repel mosquitos include: Basil Bergamot Catnip Citronella Eucalyptus Lavender Lemongrass Marigolds Mint Rosemary Learn more about the effectiveness (and how to grow) each of these below. And remember that although the following plants aren’t 100% guaranteed to ward off mosquitos from your back garden, they certainly help to create a more hostile environment for these unwanted guests. 1) Basil As good for pasta as it is for pests One of the most popular herbs in the UK, basil is famous as a flavour enhancer for a range of culinary dishes, though it’s perhaps most closely associated with Italian cuisine. But did you know it’s also effective as a mosquito repellent? For best results, place a few basil plants throughout your house – preferably near doors and windows to deter mosquitos from entering the premises in the first place. They can survive outside, though they don’t tolerate frost and dislike waterlogged soil. 2) Bergamot Good for bees, bad for mosquitos Variously known as bergamot, wild bergamot, horsemint, monarda and bee balm, this colourful flower is also adept at discouraging the presence of unwanted insects in your back garden. As well as adding a splash of vibrancy to your outdoor display, bergamot will also attract butterflies and bees by the shedload. 3) Catnip More effective than DEET? While humans might be the preferred food source of mosquitos, they’re generally not that fussy. This means cats are at just as much risk of being bitten as we are. Thankfully, the same chemical (nepetalactone) in catnip which drives cats to distraction can help to keep them safe from the unwanted attention of mosquitos. It’s a good idea to plant several plants around your garden to keep the pests away. Just be mindful that the scent of catnip can turn cats into crazed maniacs, so be sure to plant them in areas that won’t overly attract felines. 4) Citronella The potent fragrance of citronella overpowers mosquitos Citronella is perhaps the plant on this list that is most used in commercial insect repellent products. As well as its extract being imbued in sprays and creams, it’s also widely used in candles to deter all sorts of winged interlopers. That’s because the strong lemon fragrance which the plant exudes is enough to overpower the sensitive senses of mosquitos and other insects. Since they rely on their sense of smell to detect the carbon dioxide (and sweat!) that humans emit, citronella can effectively mask our presence from them.1 Therefore, citronella is a strong choice for any garden environment which is plagued by bugs of all types. It can grow to a decent size but still does admirably well in pots, which may be sensible since it doesn’t do well with frosts. 5) Eucalyptus A mosquito repelling tree! A native of Australia, eucalyptus is perhaps most famous as the favoured foodstuff of koala bears. However, its oils also have a range of other benefits, including discouraging mosquitos, midges and ticks from setting up shop in your back garden. Be aware that eucalyptus trees can grow to almost 30m in height and not far off the same in spread, so bear that in mind when choosing a spot to plant it. You also don’t want to pick a variety that’s already taller than 1m before transplanting it to your garden, since this could run the risk of the foliage growing more quickly than the roots. Indeed, many people prefer to plant eucalyptus trees in pots rather than the ground due to their sensitivity to British frosts. This facilitates easy movement if they do need to be moved to sunnier spots or even indoors. 6) Lavender A comprehensive calming solution There’s nothing quite like the persistent buzzing of a mosquito to set your nerves on edge. So why not drive away their presence with one of the most calming horticultural essences known to man? Lavender has long been associated with instilling a sense of serenity in those exposed to its delightful aroma. It’s for this reason that it’s a common ingredient in many creams, lotions and scented candles. Despite this, and the fact that it’s irresistible to bees, butterflies and other pollinators, there are a litany of other insects which can’t stand its fragrance. These include moths, flies, fleas, spiders and – you guessed it – mosquitos, too. “Lavender would be my plant of choice for deterring mosquitoes,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Although, I fear I may have to sit in amongst it in my garden in summer to deter the mosquitoes. “Even if it wasn’t entirely successful, the calming smell would ease the irritation.” 7) Lemongrass Mosquitos presumably can’t stomach a good curry Perhaps most famous in the UK for its starring role in Asian (particularly Thai) cuisine, lemongrass is a great addition to curries, teas and soups. However, the citral oil found inside the plant is anathema to mosquitos, too. With that in mind, placing lemongrass around the home and garden is an excellent way to keep your property mosquito-free. Just be aware that due to its exotic origins, it won’t tolerate British winters well at all, so it’s best to keep it in containers to allow for easy transportation indoors during the colder months. While we’re on the subject of lemon plants, lemon balm, lemon thyme and lemon verbena are all other effective mosquito repellents that contain citral to varying degrees, as well. 8) Marigolds Not just a pretty face The distinctive rosette-shaped flowerheads of marigolds are ideal for adding some pizzazz to borders and flowering vegetable gardens. Yet they’re far more than just eye candy for green-fingered enthusiasts – some say they also contain “nature’s pesticide”. That’s because marigolds exude a pungent smell powered by the oil pyrethrum found within their flowers and foliage. Often used in organic pesticides, pyrethrum discourages the presence of not just mosquitos, but plenty of other pests as well.2 Aphids, whiteflies, nematodes and even deer and rabbits will all be repelled by its musky scent, while bees and butterflies find it irresistible. 9) Mint Mojitos not mosquitos Perhaps one of the most instantly recognisable fragrances in the world, mint is commonly used to flavour toothpastes, chewing gums and other cosmetics and culinary items. It’s fantastic in cocktails and salads, too. But while its culinary properties are well-documented, its ability to deter mosquitos is perhaps not quite common knowledge. There are a wide variety of different types of mint, including peppermint and spearmint to name but two, all of which are effective mosquito repellents. However, all mints are likely to spread through your garden like wildfire, so consider planting them in pots to restrict their movement and prevent a hostile takeover. 10) Rosemary Burn rosemary for an extra-effective mosquito deterrent Commonly added to chicken and lamb dishes to add an extra oomph of flavour, the delectable piney scent let off when rosemary is combusted is too much for mosquitos. That’s why burning it on the barbecue or simply by itself is an effective strategy for keeping them at arm’s length. Rosemary does prefer warmer temperatures, making it ideal for indoor cultivation, but it can handle the British climate just fine if treated appropriately. Just make sure it’s already well developed when planting outdoors and choose a sunny but sheltered spot that benefits from well-draining soil. If you haven’t found what you’re looking for, you may also be interested in our list of plants that deter bugs. References 1. Torgan, C. (2013, December 16). How Mosquitoes Detect People. National Institutes of Health (NIH). Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.nih.gov/news-events/nih-research-matters/how-mosquitoes-detect-people 2. Liu, F., Wang, Q., Xu, P., Andreazza, F., Valbon, W. R., Bandason, E., Chen, M., Li, H., Feng, B., Smith, L. B., Scott, J. G., Takamatsu, G., Ihara, M., Matsuda, K., S, K. J., Coats, J. R., Oliveira, E., Du, Y., & Dong, K. (2021). A dual-target molecular mechanism of pyrethrum repellency against mosquitoes. Nature Communications, 12(1). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41467-021-22847-0
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Here's How To Grow Pothos (AKA 'Devils Ivy') - A Lush And Evergreen Houseplant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview What Are Pothos? Common Varieties How To Grow Pothos Propagating Pothos Common Problems References Epipremnum aureum is far better known here in the UK as ‘Pothos’ or ‘Devil’s Ivy’. A lush and evergreen houseplant, that is incredibly easy to grow, it’s perfect as a first house plant or to add to a collection. Overview Botanical Name Epipremnum aureum Common Name(s) Pothos, Devil’s Ivy Plant Type Houseplant / Climber Native Area Society Islands Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers None (cream flowers when grown in the wild) When To Grow Year-round With more of us looking to bring nature indoors, whether in our homes or offices, plants such as Pothos have been proven as a consistently good choice. Some houseplants can be more tricky than others to look after and keep alive and growers can easily be put off by previous failures. Epipremnum aureum However, pothos is one of the easiest to care for and will grow well even if neglected a tad. What Are Pothos? Pothos are tropical vines and part of the Araceae family, which originate from Asia.1 With their large evergreen heart-shaped leaves, they are a great feature plant for indoors. As a robust plant that can survive a fair amount of neglect, pothos are a great first houseplant to try and come in many different varieties. As a vine, it looks equally good when allowed to trail down from high up on a mantlepiece or table, or grown vertically with supports. Common Varieties The most commonly grown and widely available variety here in the UK is Golden Pothos, which is obtainable from most garden centres. However, some of these other varieties might need to be purchased from a house plant online retailer. E. aureum AGM or ‘Golden Pothos’ with its glossy green leaves tinged with random yellow streaks is a great trailing plant and is best shown off from a height. Having been awarded the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the RHS, it has shown to grow reliably well. Golden Neon Pothos E. aureum ‘Neon’ or ‘Golden Neon Pothos’ is a vibrant variety with its solid bright yellow foliage. Happily trailing down from a container or pot, it looks great if hung in the air or from a shelf. Satin Pothos E. ‘Trebie’ or ‘Satin Pothos Trebie’ is a stunning variegated option that produces large green leaves tinged with silver streaks. It grows well up moss support providing vertical impact to any room. E. pictum ‘Silvery Ann’ is a variegated variety, similar to pothos trebie, but with more silver foliage. As with the other varieties, it looks good whether allowed to trail or trained up a moss pole. How To Grow Pothos Pothos originate from warmer and more humid climates than here in the UK, which is why they are grown exclusively here as indoor plants. Sunlight & Temperature When grown as houseplants, pothos prefer a light spot, but not in direct sunlight which can burn the leaves and will also cope with a fair amount of shade. Pothos generally grow well indoors in the UK where there is a temperature of 12–24°C. They prefer humid conditions so a bathroom or kitchen can be ideal, but can also be grown in a normal household environment with misting on occasion. Watering Pothos are actually drought tolerant and prefer to be allowed to dry out slightly before being watered again. If worried about how much to water, it is best to err on the drier side, as too much water can kill them. Grown in a free-draining potting mix is ideal as it will allow any excess water to drain away and avoid the plant’s roots becoming waterlogged. It is advised that when watering, use room temperature water, rather than very cold water. Feeding Pothos are not particularly hungry plants and thus do not need a huge amount of food and nutrition, feeding can be left to a 4–6 week schedule and plants fed with a balanced indoor plant fertiliser. Repotting Pothos can grow quite quickly in the right conditions and will eventually need repotting. When the plant’s roots become root-bound or when the roots protrude out of the bottom of the pot, it is time to pot them on – using a slightly wider and deeper pot with new potting compost. Pruning Pruning pothos plants simply depends on how much space you have and how large you would like them to grow. They can be cut back hard to 5-10cm in order to rejuvenate or just the vine ends lightly trimmed to limit growth. Either way, it is recommended to use a clean and sharp pair of secateurs and to cut just above a leaf join. When grown in the wild, pothos can be known to produce cream flowers. However, when grown as houseplants they are unlikely to do so. Propagating Pothos Pothos are easy to grow and simple to propagate from cuttings, meaning you can increase your own collection or give away any spare plants to friends and family. To create new plants, a cutting needs to be taken, either for this specific purpose or from a pruning. Pothos plants have little bumps along the stems called root nodes and any cuttings ideally need to have 2–3 root nodes in order to have the best chance of developing a good root system. The cuttings simply need to be placed in a glass of water, deep enough to cover the stem and nodes, but not so deep as for the leaves to get wet. Place the glass on an indoor window sill and wait to see the roots develop from the nodes. Once the roots have grown to 3–5cm, which usually takes 6–8 weeks, the cutting can then be removed from the water and planted into a small pot full of free-draining potting soil. Common Problems Pothos plants are usually relatively pest and disease-free, however being indoor plants, they can be susceptible to mealy bugs and spider mites. Mealy Bugs Mealy bugs are white sap-sucking insects that leave a telltale white and fluffy residue on the foliage behind them. If allowed to develop into a severe infestation, mealybug damage can lead to leaf drop and eventual demise of the plant. The first line of control is squishing any visible bugs by hand and hosing off all foliage and stems outside with a hose spray adapter. If the infestation is more severe, plant oil and fatty acid sprays can be used or contact insecticides as a last resort. Spider Mites Spider mites can be one of the most problematic pests to houseplants. A sap-sucking mite, they leave behind a mottled appearance on the foliage and can cause leaf loss and even death of the plant. Controls can include increasing humidity either by moving the plant or by increased misting, however this is more of a prevention than control. As with mealy bugs, fatty acid and plant oil spray can be used or an insecticide for severe cases. Variegation Loss Pothos plant foliage may begin to lose its decorative variegation over time with the leaves reverting back to a single colour. This can sometimes be caused by the plant receiving too little light and is of no consequence other than cosmetic. However, by moving the plant to a brighter spot the variegation should return to the leaves with time. “If only one section of the plant has lost variegation, this is most likely due to reversion rather than a lack of light,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is where new growth loses variegation, often growing faster than the variegated leaves and taking over in time due to having more green chlorophyll in the leaf. “Look carefully and locate where the reverted growth originates and cut it back to the stem leaving only variegated growth.” Root Rot Overwatering is often a problem when caring for houseplants, especially pothos. Overwatering or wet and soggy roots can lead to sudden yellowing leaves, severe wilting and the roots rotting and turning brown. On checking the roots, if they appear brown and soft then action must be taken. Using a pair of secateurs cut and remove the brown soft roots, leaving only the healthy-looking roots. The plant can then be repotted with some fresh free-draining compost and kept an eye on. References 1. Epipremnum aureum. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener. Retrieved May 22, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/epipremnum-aureum/
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We Interviewed Garden Designers For Their 20 Top Wildlife Garden Ideas
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Create A Wildlife Pond 2) Make A Bog Garden / Wetland Area 3) Make A Rain Garden 4) Landscape To Protect The Soil 5) Plant A Wildflower Meadow 6) Plant Fruit Trees 7) Plant Other Native Trees 8) Establish A Forest Garden 9) Make New No-Dig Garden Beds 10) Companion Plant Annual Crops With Flowers & Herbs 11) Create A Perennial Bed Or Border 12) Plant A Mixed Native Hedgerow 13) Clad Walls Or Fences With Perennial Climbers 14) Choose Living Roofs For Sheds & Other Structures 15) Create A Stump Garden 16) Create A Rockery 17) Leave Some Weeds For Wildlife 18) Make A Log Or Brush Pile (Or Dead Hedge) 19) Add Nesting Boxes & Wildlife ‘Hotels’ 20) Add Feeders In Your Garden References Creating a wildlife garden is a great eco-friendly project for you and your family. There is plenty that you can do to benefit nature and attract and aid wildlife in your garden. And remember, what benefits wildlife also benefits you, as a gardener. The more biodiversity you can bring to your space, the more vibrant and resilient it will be. “There are many ways gardeners can help care for the environment and have the climate in mind,” says Hannah Reid, Garden Writer and Blogger. Wildlife is endangered by human activity. But we humans can also do a lot to reduce biodiversity losses and to help make our environments better places for wildlife to be, and better spaces for us. Here are 20 wildlife garden ideas to benefit nature, help wildlife, and create thriving and productive spaces that provide for you, your family, and all the life which shares your space. 1) Create A Wildlife Pond One of the very best things you can do in a wildlife garden is to create a wildlife pond.1 Wildlife ponds are a year-round source of water for wildlife to drink or bathe in, and also provide a habitat for a range of aquatic and amphibious creatures. Ponds attract and benefit many animals, boosting biodiversity. They are also extremely attractive and can help make your garden a relaxing place to be. “An obvious way to help wildlife is to add water features, even tiny ponds or baths, to your spaces,” shares Dave Goulson, Bee Ecologist & Conservationist. “It’s amazing how much wildlife some water will provide for.” By planting up a wildlife pond with a range of aquatic and marginal plants, you can create a thriving ecosystem that supports a wide variety of life, including slug-eating frogs. “A good balance is for half the surface to be vegetation, and half water,” according to Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Ponds should ideally be at least two feet deep in the middle, with a shallow beach area at one side to allow wildlife to get in and out easily. But in tiny gardens, even an old washing up bowl or barrel placed in the ground can be better than no pond at all, as Manoj Maldé, award-winning garden designer, explains: “Fill a bowl with water, leave it in your garden and watch how it attracts wildlife. I do this in my garden and it attracts birds, bees, butterflies and other insects. “Using ways of inviting beneficial wildlife into the garden will help to keep control of the bad insects you don’t want. “In turn, you may be able to reduce your use of artificial insecticides which will have a positive knock-on effect of reduction in plastic containers and packaging – and it helps to save a few pennies.” “Very shallow areas of water – even a saucer – can be great for bees and other insects, as well as birds, to drink from…or watch them drink from water droplets on plants like Alchemilla,” adds Peter. “I bought a water bath for the first time this year and I’ve spotted my first frog, which is exciting,” shares Gardener Sally Flatman. 2) Make A Bog Garden / Wetland Area To make a watery area of your garden even better for wildlife, you could also consider creating a bog garden or a small wetland area adjacent to a pond, or in a naturally boggy and waterlogged spot on your property. Wetland ecosystems are one of the most biodiverse ecosystems on earth.2 Even a small area of bog garden or wetland in your garden could boost biodiversity considerably, and be a boon to a range of different wildlife, including bees – if planted with plants such as marsh marigold, Caltha palustris. “By incorporating water into the garden, from a small half-barrel pond to an enormous lake, we can provide a home for so much more wildlife, with the added benefit of attracting slug-hungry predators like frogs, as well as creating opportunities for different types of ornamental planting,” adds Sam Hickmott, a Horticulturist. 3) Make A Rain Garden Staying with the water theme, another great wildlife garden idea involves finding ways to catch rainwater in your garden and keep it around. There are a great many benefits to making a rain garden, which will catch rainfall runoff from a roof or driveway. One of the benefits is that the moist soil and rich planting within it can be great for wildlife.3 The idea is that water from gutters or hard surfaces are directed into a basin or dip created in the soil, which is filled with organic material and planted up with plants that tolerate periods of wet and periods of dry conditions. This feature can be a habitat for a range of species, and if you choose the right plants, can provide wildlife with food and other resources too. Plant up a rain garden with native plants and it can catch and store far more water than a boring lawn, and will also bring much more life to your garden. 4) Landscape To Protect The Soil Another way to catch rainwater and keep it around in your garden is to create on-contour swales (ditches) on a gentle slope. Adding swales and berms on their downward side, and planting up the berms with plenty of useful and attractive plants will keep water around, aiding soil life and a range of other wildlife too.4 Taking care of the soil is very important in a wildlife garden because much of the wildlife we most wish to attract is part of the ecosystem of healthy soil.5 “Stop using chemicals and start letting nature achieve her own balance,” shares Gardener Alan Titchmarsh. When trying to attract wildlife to your garden, do not forget the wildlife which we cannot usually see, which lives and works below the soil surface. Terracing can also work well on steeper slopes to prevent runoff and erosion. 5) Plant A Wildflower Meadow One of the most obvious types of wildlife we wish to attract in a wildlife garden are pollinators. Bees and a range of other insects play crucial roles in plant pollination and we want plenty of them around. One of the wonderful ways to attract pollinators to your garden is to create a wildflower meadow.6 Getting rid of a boring, mowed grass lawn is another of the best things you can do for wildlife in your garden. “Don’t be too tidy. I’m not saying your garden has to look a mess, but endless deadheading, mowing and tidying away is getting rid of a little bit of habitat for wildlife every time,” Dave says. “Leave herbaceous plants up throughout the winter and don’t chop them back until the spring. It’s a really easy thing to do, as loads of insects spend their winters sitting on those dead stalks and flower heads.” Replacing it with an infrequently mowed perennial or annual wildflower meadow is one excellent way to go. “Plant some native wildflowers in a little patch,” adds Dave. “It doesn’t have to be big. We asked members of The Buzz Club to grow a 2x2m patch and then count the insects they saw, and the results were amazing. “There were hundreds of insects from dozens of different species attracted to these patches, so you don’t need lots of space.” Be sure to think about where you live, the microclimate and soil, and choose a wildflower or meadow mix which is suitable for your area and location. “Many meadow plants prefer relatively poor soil, so this is no barrier to starting one,” says Peter Lickorish. “In fact, suppressing lush grass can be a challenge, so consider adding plants which can help achieve this – including Rhinanthus minor, yellow rattle.” 6) Plant Fruit Trees Just a few fruit trees in blossom can provide a huge amount of nectar for bees and other pollinators. The fruit which you do not manage to harvest, and that which falls from the tree, will also be appreciated by butterflies and other wildlife later in the year.7 Fruit trees also provide for wildlife in many other ways too – feeding a whole host of creatures, and giving a range of wildlife shelter or a place to live. “As an example, ladybirds love gobbling up any aphids on fruit trees,” says Peter. And that is before you even begin to consider the benefits they can bring for you and your family. Even in tiny gardens, there is space for a small fruit tree. You can grow cordon varieties up against a fence, or even grow patio fruit trees in pots. Almost anyone can place a fruit tree in their garden. 7) Plant Other Native Trees If you have a larger garden, then of course fruit trees are not the only trees to consider. Planting other trees is another of the best things you can do for wildlife in your area. Choosing native trees means you can benefit a huge range of native wildlife, which has evolved alongside these species and works symbiotically with native plants in a range of different ways.8 Even a single tree can make a big difference to the biodiversity in your garden, and can enrich your own life too, in so many different ways. In somewhat smaller gardens, native trees can be coppiced to keep them small, which also helps create habitat and other benefits for a range of creatures. 8) Establish A Forest Garden If you really want to do as much as you can for wildlife in your garden, then you can think beyond tree planting and think about creating thriving, productive and resilient ecosystems to feed you, and many other creatures with whom you share your space.9 Establish a forest garden, also known as a food forest or edible woodland garden and watch the wildlife arrive. A forest garden is a wildlife-friendly way to grow your own food, and creates a much more low maintenance food-producing system than annual beds. A forest garden has layered planting – with trees, shrubs, climbers, herbaceous perennials, self-seeding annuals/biennials, and more which work together in many ways with each other, and with wildlife in the space. Not all are edible, but all contribute to the system as a whole. “Having a mix of plants is really great,” shares Grass Expert Neil Lucas. “Growing for pollinators is good, but growing for diversity is better because you get such a wide range of plants that appeal to all sorts of wildlife.” 9) Make New No-Dig Garden Beds If you are still interested in annual food production, then in a wildlife-friendly garden, you will want to make sure that your efforts to grow your own do not conflict with the nature in your garden. In a no-dig garden, you will work to protect the soil and the life it contains, and as mentioned above, this is always great for garden biodiversity. “By disengaging from the ground and not hoeing, digging or weeding, you’re allowing all sorts of invertebrates to start making a home there,” shares Neil. When making new no-dig garden beds, the idea is to disturb the existing soil as little as possible. “Many organisms are happy at a particular soil depth and soil disturbance could put them somewhere they don’t want to be,” says Peter. Rather than digging new beds, you will make new beds by layering organic material on top of the soil surface. Weeds can be suppressed under layers of cardboard. No-dig garden beds like lasagna gardens and hugelkultur mounds allow a wide range of soil life to thrive.10 10) Companion Plant Annual Crops With Flowers & Herbs Once you have made your new no-dig beds, you also need to think about what you plant in them. In a wildlife garden, companion planting annual crops is key. Rather than, for example, just growing cabbages in one bed and carrots in another, you should create vibrant and diverse polycultures, with a range of plants growing in each bed which benefit one another. “Have permaculture at the front of your mind and plant a diverse range of plants in the garden,” says Hannah. “This will help to attract pollinators too, which is both great for the environment and vegetable growers, as it’s the pollinators that mean we get to harvest veggies!” As Hannah explains, incorporating plenty of flowers and herbs as companion plants around and between your main crops can bring more beneficial wildlife to your garden: wildlife that will pollinate your crops, and help, through predation, to keep pest numbers down.11 “Plants such as the French marigold, Tagetes patula, can deter whitefly from tomatoes,” adds Peter Lickorish. Remember to garden organically at all times in order to make sure you keep safe the wildlife that you attract. 11) Create A Perennial Bed Or Border As well as thinking about annual production when growing your own, it is important to consider perennial production too. Fruit trees, shrubs and other perennial plants can, as mentioned above, be included in a forest garden type area. But perennial beds or borders filled with perennial flowers, vegetables and herbs can also be great for a wildlife garden. With herbaceous perennials, leaving plant stems and seed heads in place over the autumn and winter months can provide a haven for a range of wildlife, with plenty of shelter, and food sources too. “The stems of Turkish sage, Phlomis russeliana, can be very elegant if left over winter,” advises Peter. A herbaceous border is another great feature for a wildlife-friendly garden. 12) Plant A Mixed Native Hedgerow Hedges can also be a place where wildlife can thrive, especially if, instead of creating a neat, single species hedge, you plant a mixed hedgerow with a variety of native or mostly native plants. “Buy plants from UK growers to minimise transportation emissions, don’t use pesticides and don’t buy a plant and expect it to survive without first doing a little bit of research into its care requirements,” says Sarah Gerrard-Jones, when asked about the best ways to help nature. “The most sustainable thing you can do is keep a native plant alive!” There are many great species for a mixed hedgerow – from wild fruits like blackthorn/sloe, bullace/wild plum, bird cherry/gean, and elder, to hazel, hawthorn, hornbeam, holly, native roses, guelder rose and more. Hedgerows can be placed along a garden boundary, but might also be imaginatively used to separate zones of your garden into different garden rooms. Hedgerows can be nesting sites, provide shelter for many creatures, and, of course, can also provide food, for the wildlife and for you. 13) Clad Walls Or Fences With Perennial Climbers Where gardens are surrounded by walls or fences, these will obviously not be as attractive for wildlife, and can in fact block wildlife from your garden. To make your fences or walls more biodiverse (and attractive) consider cladding them with perennial climbers. Ivy, honeysuckle, and other climbers are also great for wildlife throughout the year. In addition, if you have a solid boundary around your garden, think about making holes which can be used as wildlife corridors by hedgehogs and other wonderful garden wildlife. Do not accidentally exclude wildlife from your garden with barriers that certain creatures cannot breach. 14) Choose Living Roofs For Sheds & Other Structures One of the key things in a wildlife garden is to make sure that you include as much plant life, and as varied a selection of plants, as possible. Planting where plants would not typically be found is one great way to cram more plants into your garden. One example of this is choosing living roofs, or green roofs for sheds and other structures in your garden. Sedums, grasses and meadow flowers, and a number of other plants can make great roof covering and are a boon for bees and other pollinators.12 15) Create A Stump Garden Another key concept behind a wildlife garden involves creating as many different ecosystem niches and different habitats as possible. One cool idea for a wildlife garden is a stump garden, or stumpery. This involves creating a garden around dead and decomposing tree stumps, logs and branches. “If a branch has fallen from your tree, don’t discard it,” shares Danny Clarke, a Garden Designer and Horticulturist who is also known as The Black Gardener. “Put it in a bed and make a little stumpery out of it. Plant some ferns or hostas around it. “Wildlife will benefit from these simple ideas. Eventually, that wood will decay and enrich the soil and from that enrichment, new plants will grow.” Stump gardens are wonderful for solitary bees, beetles, woodlice, toads, small mammals and more. They are a wonderful wildlife habitat which can work very well in a shaded or partially shaded spot. “I put log piles with soil in my space and they become hotels in the corners of our gardens” shares Neil. Adding ferns and woodland plants contrasts well with the stumps. 16) Create A Rockery Placing rocks and stones in a garden bed to create a rockery is another way to create different habitats for a range of wildlife. Rockeries can be beautiful garden features, and can attract a range of different creatures to the space. Rockeries will typically have plenty of nooks and crannies for wildlife to hide in, and butterflies and perhaps even lizards will enjoy sunning themselves on flat rock surfaces. Fill your rockery with flowering alpine plants and pollinators will also benefit throughout the year. 17) Leave Some Weeds For Wildlife “Every year I take part in Plantlife’s No Mow May but I also carry it on through Let It Bloom June and Knee High July,” shares Debi Holland. “Our urban front lawn is a dream, filled with ox-eye daisies and the buzz of pollinators. Other than mowing a path around the edge nature is allowed to run wild and the local insects seem very happy.” As explained above, in a wildlife garden, it is never a good idea to be too zealous in weed removal. Campaigns such as No Mow May encourage the unchecked growth of plants commonly considered weeds, which are highly beneficial to garden wildlife.13 “You should listen to your garden and watch what is does, as opposed to trying to make it do what you want it to do,” shares Sally. “I think that comes back to letting plants, even weeds, go to seed when they want to.” Of course, you may not want weeds in your main growing areas, but it is a good idea to leave some wilder corners in your space where weeds and native wildflowers can thrive. “Nature is important and we need to learn to co-exist with it,” shares Danny. “Birds, bees and butterflies are not interested in whether a garden is tidy or not. “They’re just interested in whether they can get food or shelter, so we need to consider them first. “It’s all about being part of this big cycle and working with it, not against it. If we work against it, we do it to our detriment.” Creating a nettle patch, perhaps, or letting plants like dandelions pop up in a lawn or pathways can be great for a range of insects and other wildlife in your garden. And remember, many weeds can actually be very useful for us too, in a range of ways.14 “Don’t see your garden as a battleground,” adds Sally. “Once you relax about that and stop trying to control every element of your garden, more wildlife will creep in.” 18) Make A Log Or Brush Pile (Or Dead Hedge) Not being too tidy in a garden is key to wildlife attraction. “A pile of logs and twigs will provide cover for beetles to live,” shares Georgie Newbery, a Flower Farmer. “Beetles eat slugs. Hedgehogs eat beetles. We need room for the whole foot chain if we are to allow ecosystems to flourish.” As well as leaving some weeds to thrive in wilder corners of the space, you should also make sure that you leave some dead and decaying organic woody material lying around. You can pile branches, leaves and other organic debris in a pile in a corner of your garden, or make a dead hedge by piling such material between two rows of posts stuck in the ground. “Leaving dense twigs and foliage will create nesting and hibernating spaces,” shares Author Naomi Slade. “It is really important to provide insect larvae with food sources, whether it is rotting wood or plant material, as otherwise, there can be no adults.” The materials will provide a home for a range of wildlife, and enrich and improve the soil as they slowly break down.15 “Stacking or laying material in strata – lining it up in layers facing the same direction – can make them appear more ornamental,” according to Peter Lickorish. “The prevailing wind generally blows branches down in the same direction, so you can mimic this.” The USDA suggests that one brush pile every 2-300 feet should provide adequate cover and travel lanes between food sources for most species. 19) Add Nesting Boxes & Wildlife ‘Hotels’ The best ideas for a wildlife garden always involve thinking about the diverse plants that you choose, how they can be combined, and how you can create natural habitats for as many creatures as possible. But in small gardens, you might not have the space to create as many natural habitats as you might wish. This is where nesting boxes and wildlife ‘hotels’ can come in. Adding bird boxes, bat boxes, squirrel boxes, bee hotels and other similar features can ensure you have space for wildlife when you cannot provide more natural accommodation options. Every creature that visits your garden should be able to find a home when you add fun features of this kind to your space. A mixture of materials, including tiles and logs with drilled holes, could be packed into a steel gabion, for example. Just make sure that you understand the best placement for each of the different features of this kind that you add, so the options are suitable for the creatures you wish to attract. 20) Add Feeders In Your Garden Again, remember that adding natural food sources through the right plant choices is most important. Adding plenty of seeding plants and berry-producing trees and bushes, and ensuring plenty of insect life is around, are the best ways to make sure there is food for all in a wildlife garden. But there are still times when it can be helpful to supplement the wild diet of the creatures in your garden with additional food. A range of garden birds, for example, will benefit from additional food in winter, when there is less wild food around. Research from the British Trust for Ornithology in 2019 suggested that bird feeding has helped to support the populations of many bird species in the UK.16 Choosing and positioning the right feeders for different birds and other creatures is one more idea that can be beneficial in a wildlife garden. These are, of course, just some of the things you can do to create a wonderful wildlife garden. But these ideas should provide you with a good idea of where to start. References 1. The value of ponds for wildlife. (n.d.). Flagship Ponds. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://freshwaterhabitats.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/The-value-of-ponds-for-wildlife-NEW.pdf 2. What is biodiversity and why do we need it? (2020, June 13). WWT. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.wwt.org.uk/news-and-stories/blog/what-is-biodiversity-and-why-do-we-need-it/ 3. Rain Gardens: A Way to Improve Water Quality. (2016, November 28). Center for Agriculture, Food, and the Environment. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/rain-gardens-way-to-improve-water-quality 4. Engels, J. (2015, August 25). Using Swales to Your Advantage: How to Water Your Garden With the Power of Nature. One Green Planet. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.onegreenplanet.org/lifestyle/permaculture-magic-why-swales-are-swell-for-the-garden/ 5. Saving Our Soils. (2021). Soil Association. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.soilassociation.org/media/24941/saving-our-soils-report-dec21.pdf 6. Forest Research. (2022b, February 9). Wildflower meadow habitats. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/tools-and-resources/fthr/urban-regeneration-and-greenspace-partnership/greenspace-in-practice/benefits-of-greenspace/wildflower-meadow-habitats/ 7. Benefits of orchards and fruit growing. (2017, May 22). The Orchard Project. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.theorchardproject.org.uk/guides_and_advice/benefits-of-orchards-and-fruit-growing/ 8. Why are Trees Important for Biodiversity? (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/why-trees-are-important-for-biodiversity/ 9. Key benefits of forest gardens. (n.d.). National Forest Gardening Scheme. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://nationalforestgardening.org/benefits-of-forest-gardens/key-benefits/ 10. The Many Benefits of Hugelkultur. (2023, March 27). Permaculture. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.permaculture.co.uk/articles/the-many-benefits-of-hugelkultur/ 11. Riesselman, L. (2010, January 1). Companion Planting: A Method for Sustainable Pest Control. Iowa State University. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://dr.lib.iastate.edu/entities/publication/3958510b-6314-4800-9ded-88cf9d4cbca2 12. Green roofs / RHS Gardening. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. https://www.rhs.org.uk/garden-features/green-roofs 13. Ways to support us. (n.d.-b). National Trust. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/support-us 14. Hillocks, R. (1997). The potential benefits of weeds with reference to small holder agriculture in Africa. Integrated Pest Management. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www2.hawaii.edu/~theodore/Images/weeds_as_resources_africa.pdf 15. Schalau, J. (2019, June 26). Brush Piles Benefit Wildlife. Backyard Gardener. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/brushpiles.html 16. Boom time at Britain’s bird feeders. (2019, May 21). BTO – British Trust for Ornithology. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.bto.org/press-releases/boom-time-britains-bird-feeders
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Here's How To Get The Best Results When Growing Bleeding Heart Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Bleeding Heart? Commonly Grown Varieties Planting Companion Planting Bleeding Heart Plant Care References ‘Bleeding Heart’ is a popular garden plant in the UK, named for its heart-shaped flowers which hang from long arching stems, often in colours of pink, red and white. This well-known, deciduous garden perennial is known botanically as ‘Lamprocapnos’ and originates from North-East China and Korea.1 Overview Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis) Common Name(s) Bleeding Heart Plant Type Perennial Native Area East Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Heart-shaped flowers – commonly pink or red When To Plant March, April, May, June Flowering Months April, May, June Informally, ‘Bleeding Heart’ is the name given to a herbaceous perennial, Lamprocapnos spectabilis, formerly known as Dicentra spectabilis, as well as a number of other species in the Dicentra genus.2 In this article, we will focus on the most common ‘bleeding heart’ grown in gardens: L. spectabilis. If you are already familiar with this plant then you will not find it difficult to see how it got its common name. Each of the flowers is shaped like a heart, with a single, dangling, pearl-like petal beneath. Though this plant is still often sold and referenced under its old name, this is now categorised as the only species within the Lamprocapnos genus. The first specimens of this plant were introduced from Asia to the British Isles by Scottish botanist and plant hunter Robert Fortune in the 1840s.3 Since then, the plant has become a popular plant for temperate climate gardens. Why Grow Bleeding Heart? Bleeding heart is most commonly grown for its ornamental appeal. The dangling hearts hanging from the stems are delicate and attractive, brightening up a partially shaded spot in a garden, bringing interest to woodland fringes or charming in more sunny borders. The plant is in bloom between April and June. Commonly Grown Varieties The typical L. spectabilis is fuchsia pink and white, though there are other cultivars. Bleeding Hearts ‘Alba’ ‘Valentine’ has red and white flowers – and an all-white variety called ‘Alba’ is also available. Both of these, along with the species type, have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit. ‘Gold Heart’ Another cultivar, ‘Gold Type’ or ‘Gold Heart’ has yellow leaves. Planting Bleeding heart can be planted in a sunny spot when sufficient moisture is available. However, it will generally do best in dappled or partial shade. It has a hardiness rating of H6 and will cope with a range of soil types and conditions. The most important thing this plant requires is a moist, fertile soil, with plenty of organic matter. A moist but well-drained, or even poorly drained soil can allow it to thrive. It can cope with other conditions but does best in soils with a neutral or somewhat alkaline pH. A sheltered spot is typically best. Bleeding heart is usually planted between March and June. Care should be taken when planting because the roots are brittle and these are plants that do not like disturbance. When planting, and developing a scheme for a certain part of your garden, it may be helpful to know that Lamprocapnos typically grows to around 60cm high, and has a spread of 45cm. If you only have a small garden, you may also be interested to learn that this plant can also be grown in a container as long as its environmental needs are met. Companion Planting Bleeding heart works very well in an informal or cottage-garden style space. “Lamprocapnos spectabilis is a bit of an all-rounder that can be used in different areas of the garden and with different styles to create different effects,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I like to use in woodland borders in dappled shade, following on from early flowering perennials and bulbs. “I tend to use L. ‘Alba’ because it really catches the eye in a shady position.” Some other plants which work well alongside them include: Aconite Ajuga Astilbe Brunnera Digitalis Ferns Hellebores Heuchera Hostas Pulmonaria Lamprocapnos can also work well as under-planting for roses and other shrubs in a romantic cottage garden scheme. Of course, since they can do well in dappled shade, they can also work well around deciduous trees in a woodland garden. Bleeding Heart Plant Care Bleeding heart is a relatively low-maintenance perennial plant which will not require a lot of ongoing care. However, there are certain considerations to bear in mind: Watering When L. spectabilis is grown in dappled or partial shade, in suitably moist or damp soil, it should only need to be watered during prolonged dry spells. However, it is important to pay attention to soil moisture – especially if you are growing this plant in a sunnier spot, or in a container. If you are growing bleeding heart in a container, it is important to water regularly. Feeding Your bleeding heart will do best if grown in fertile soil, rich in humus. An organic mulch each spring should provide all the slow-release fertility required throughout the year. Since this is naturally a woodland plant, a mulch of leaf litter/leaf mould is ideal. References 1. Lamprocapnos spectabilis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:995841-1 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1999b, May 27). Bleeding heart | plant. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/bleeding-heart 3. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2008, August 14). Robert Fortune | Scottish botanist and traveler. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/biography/Robert-Fortune
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How To Grow Nepeta (AKA 'Catmint') - Known For Its Intoxicating Effect On Felines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Catmint? Common Varieties How To Grow Catmint Catmint Plant Care Common Problems References Catmint is a group of dependable perennials that can be a great choice for many gardens. Catmint is perhaps best known for its effect on felines, but cats are not the only garden visitors who can be intoxicated by this beautiful and useful plant. Should you choose to include it in your garden, you will soon see why it is such a popular choice. Overview Botanical Name Nepeta Common Name(s) Catmint, Catnip Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Europe, South-West and Central Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or violet flower spires When To Sow March, April Plant Out May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October When To Prune October, November Catmint is the name given to a number of plants within the Nepeta genus, in the Lamiaceae family.1 The common name catmint is given to these species because of the effect they have on domestic cats. Nepeta cataria A chemical called nepetalactone in these Nepeta species affects the olfactory receptors of cats and makes them temporarily euphoric.2 These plants are usually herbaceous perennials, with tubular flowers often in lavender-blue hues. While the term catmint is applied broadly to a number of species within this genus, it can also be used to refer more specifically to Nepeta cataria, which is also referred to as ‘Catnip’. This is said to be the most aromatic catmint, but more ornamentally appealing species and hybrids are available for gardeners. Why Grow Catmint? If you want a perennial plant which will flower well over a long season (late spring to late summer), which makes a great informal edging or border plant, and which is great for wildlife in your garden, catmint can be an excellent choice. They are easy to grow and very low maintenance. Catmint can be used to attract cats to specific parts of your garden to keep them out of vegetable plots and other areas. It also attracts a wide range of beneficial wildlife, including butterflies, bees and other pollinators, and beneficial predatory insects which help keep pest populations down. This means that it can be a great companion plant for a range of common crops and other garden plants. Catmint is also commonly said to repel a range of insect pests, such as aphids and flea beetles, for example – and research shows it may help in holistic and organic pest control (at least to a degree).3 N. cataria also has a range of uses for us, beyond the garden. The young leaves can be eaten raw in salads or as a garnish and they have a mint-like flavour. Common Varieties There are several different species within the Nepeta genus to consider growing in your garden. These include: N. cataria N. cataria ssp. citriodora (lemon catmint) N. racemosa N. nepetella N. x faassenii (A hybrid of garden origin between N. racemosa and N. nepetella) N. subsessilus N. kubanica N. nuda Nepeta x faassenii How To Grow Catmint Catmint mostly prefers a site in full sun, though some species, like N. subsessilus will cope with light or dappled shade. Most Nepeta species will thrive in dry and free-draining soil, though N. kubanica and N. nuda do better on soil which is a bit moister. N. ‘Six Hills Giant’ Catmints are usually pretty tolerant of dry conditions, but cannot tolerate permanently wet soils – in such conditions, rot can set in. All catmints will struggle in deep shade. Where To Grow Catmint can be grown in a range of different settings in a garden – it can work well within a sunny herb garden, alongside other herbs which like sunny and relatively free-draining conditions. It can also work well as edging around a productive annual garden bed, along a pathway, or as edging for a patio or paved area. Alternatively, it can also be integrated into perennial beds or borders alongside other flowering perennial plants. In small spaces, catmint can also be grown in pots. “Nepeta x faasenii is a smaller hybrid that grows to a maximum of around 50cm x 50cm,” says RHS MHort Colin Skelly, “making it ideal for growing in pots where it will require a minimum of maintenance.” Sowing & Planting Catmint can be sown in March or April, and planted out in May or June. Pot-grown plants can also be purchased throughout the year, though the best time to plant these out is in the spring or autumn. You can also plant out in summer though it will be important to keep the new plants well-watered during dry periods until they have become established. Most catmints should be spaced anywhere between 30-60cm apart, though this will vary depending on the species and specific variety you have chosen. Companion Planting Suggestions In a herb garden, grow catmint with rosemary, thyme, marjoram, oregano, hyssop, sage, etc. You could grow catmint as a border companion plant around annual fruit and vegetable beds. Or, grow catmint at the front of a fruit tree guild to attract beneficial insects and potentially help with repelling certain pest species too. In perennial beds or borders, consider planting catmints with, for example: Agastache Lupins Astrantia Alliums Salvias Yarrow Verbena Hardy geraniums (cranesbill) and/or perennial ornamental grasses. Catmint Plant Care When Nepeta is placed appropriately, it is a great choice for a low-maintenance perennial garden scheme. Though it will flower and look good over a long period, it will take up very little of your time. Watering Newly planted catmint should be watered well during dry spells during establishment. After this period of time, the plants will largely obtain enough water from rainfall and will require little ongoing care. These easy-going perennials, when placed in the right positions, should take up very little of your time and will be a high-value addition to your garden. If you are growing catmint in containers, remember that you will have to water a bit more frequently than when plants are grown in the ground. Pruning & Cutting Back Nepeta flowers over a long period from late spring to late summer, but it is a good idea, for the best blooms, to trim them back after flowering, as this will keep the plant neat and encourage further flowering. Once the growth dies back in the late autumn, it is best, in a wildlife-friendly garden, to leave the remaining foliage in place until spring. The dead leaves are a hibernation spot for ladybirds and other creatures, so leave further cutting back until early spring so they have a good spot to overwinter. Division Catmint forms large, congested clumps over time, and flowering can diminish. To prevent this from happening, it is a good idea to divide the clumps every few years, once you spot a noticeable decline in flowering. Of course, division of mature plants does not just give the existing plant a new lease of life – it also allows you to propagate new catmint plants to give away, or place more elsewhere in your garden. Common Problems Catmints will usually be hassle-free and don’t generally have a lot of issues with pests or diseases. Cats which are attracted to the catmint may roll around on it and damage a clump, but will not usually destroy the plants altogether. Slugs can occasionally be an issue with young catmint plants – to prevent plant losses and keep slug numbers down, make sure you have plenty of wildlife that eats slugs in your garden. If necessary, keep an eye out and remove slugs by hand, or place slug traps if there is a severe problem. When the summer is very dry, powdery mildew can sometimes occur and you may see a white coating on the leaves and stems and occasionally, there may be dieback. If this happens, cut off, gather up and remove affected plant material as soon as possible to prevent its further spread. As you can see from the above, catmints can be a wonderful choice for a range of settings, and are a low-effort, high-reward plant choice for many sunny gardens. References 1. Nepeta cataria (Catmint, Catnip, Catswort). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/nepeta-cataria/ 2. Meet the Molecules – Catnip. (2020, September 11). John Innes Centre. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.jic.ac.uk/blog/meet-the-molecules-catnip/ 3. Catnip and Catmint. (2017, September 20). Backyard Gardener. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/catnipandcatmint.html
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They Might Be Past Their Prime, But You Can Still Eat Broccoli After Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE Eating The Flowers & Leaves If Broccoli Flowers Before Heads Form If You Left Healthy Plants Too Long Letting Plants Go To Seed References Have you left your broccoli a little too long? You might wonder whether you can eat broccoli when it starts to flower. We have your answer… Ideally, broccoli is best harvested when the buds of the flowers are still green (or purple for purple-sprouting varieties), and closed, and the heads are tight.1 However, all is not lost if you leave it too late. You can still eat the stems, flowers and leaves from the plant, and they can taste great raw or lightly cooked in a stir fry or other similar recipe.2 Eating The Flowers & Leaves Opinions can differ regarding the taste of broccoli flowers. Some people like them, others don’t. Personally, I like their mild, slightly nutty flavour and like to eat just-flowering florets raw in a salad. Don’t forget that broccoli leaves are edible too.3 It would be a shame to let your hard work go to waste altogether just because you missed the prime harvesting window. Make sure you do not let any food go to waste in your garden, or in your home. If Broccoli Flowers Before Heads Form If your broccoli plants flower before they have formed tight heads (multiple smaller heads on sprouting broccoli, or one large initial head on Calabrese types) then this is usually a sign of a problem with environmental conditions. When broccoli plants are stressed, they will rush to produce seeds. The stress can come from a range of causes but is often related to temperatures, water shortage, or a lack of nutrients. Broccoli which bolts in this way is still edible. However, in certain circumstances, the flowers and stems may have some bitterness, and might not taste that great – though the leaves should still be useful as a cooked green. Unfortunately, if your younger broccoli plants bolt, you will not usually see any heads forming and it is too late to get the harvest you expected from your crop. It is a good idea to try to identify where things went wrong, to help you grow healthy broccoli plants in future. Sometimes, environmental issues may be beyond your control (extreme weather events, for example). But often, you can make changes related to watering, or the soil, to make sure you can grow more successfully in future. If your broccoli bolted early, then it is not a good idea to save the seeds. If You Left Healthy Plants Too Long If, however, you grew healthy broccoli plants, which formed heads that you simply left a little too long, you cannot only eat the flowers, stems and leaves, but can also consider letting your broccoli go to seed and saving seeds for next year. This is another reason why you should not always pull up flowering broccoli plants right away. If you notice that the heads on broccoli are opening up and flowers are forming, then if you wish to eat your crop, the sooner you can get round to harvesting, the better. The longer you leave it, the more the taste and texture will alter. Notes of bitterness can certainly sometimes begin to creep in.4 There is nothing wrong with the broccoli, and it is still edible later – it is just likely to be tougher, and often won’t taste as nice. Letting Plants Go To Seed If you try a little of the flowering broccoli and do not like the taste, but the plant seems healthy and did produce good heads prior to this stage, simply leave the flowers on the plant to allow seeds to develop. Just remember that seeds may not come true if the flowers have been allowed to cross-pollinate with other members of the Brassica (cabbage) family. After the flowers fade, thin pods will form. If you leave your plants in place, these pods will dry out and turn brown, and will have seeds inside. Before these pods break open, cut the stems and place the stalks upside down over a box to let them dry fully. Once they are completely dry, shaking and tapping the stalks should release all the seeds into the box below. Dry the seeds fully, keep them in an airtight container, and they should last for a number of years. References 1. Growing broccoli in home gardens. (n.d.). University of Minnesota. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-broccoli 2. How to Use Broccoli or Cauliflower Stems and Leaves. (2020, August 10). FoodPrint. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://foodprint.org/blog/how-to-use-broccoli-cauliflower-stems-leaves/ 3. Grant, S. (2022, September 14). Making a meal of ‘waste’ vegetable leaves. East Anglian Daily Times. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.eadt.co.uk/news/21463798.making-meal-waste-vegetable-leaves/ 4. Fritz, C. (2020a, June 5). Everything You Need to Know About Bolting! Kansas City Community Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://kccg.org/bolting-101/
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Planting And Growing Yucca: These Architectural Plants Work Well In Xeriscaping Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Yucca? Where To Grow Yucca Planting Yucca Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Yuccas are interesting, architectural plants which are grown as houseplants or outdoors in UK gardens. There are a number of different yucca types that can be interesting plant choices for UK gardeners. Tender yuccas can be grown as houseplants, in greenhouses or conservatories – while there are also hardier yuccas which can be grown outdoors in summer; some even year-round outdoors in the right locations. Overview Botanical Name Yucca (various sub-species) Common Name(s) Adam’s Needle and Thread, Spanish Dagger Plant Type Shrub / Tree / Perennial / Houseplant Native Area Americas & Caribbean Hardiness Rating Varies – some tender, some hardy Foliage Evergreen, spiky leaves Flowers Some have cream-white flowers When To Plant (Outdoors) April, May, June Flowering Months July, August There are around 40-50 species within this genus, which are notable for their tough, evergreen, sword-like foliage and tall flower panicles of bell-shaped blooms. Yuccas are incredibly adaptable as a genus, and species have evolved to cope with a wide range of climates and ecological conditions. Why Grow Yucca? Yucca is a popular plant for ornamental use in gardens (or as houseplants) because it has such a strong architectural form. Hardier types can add a dramatic accent to a suitable garden, while houseplants can be a great addition to interior décor. When in flower, yucca can be attractive to pollinators in a garden. And in warmer, milder regions, some varieties form fruits which are popular with garden birds. Where To Grow Yucca Hardier yucca (including Yucca gloriosa) are H5 hardy and can be grown in full sun in a south or east-facing spot, in well-drained chalk, loam or sandy soil. Yucca aloifolia and Zamioculcas The plants can grow in locations which are sheltered or exposed, but will appreciate being placed in as hot and sunny a spot as possible. Tender yucca, though they can be placed outside in a warm and sunny spot in summer, are usually grown as houseplants, or in a cool conservatory. Outdoors, yucca can work well in architectural planting alongside other spiky and architectural plants, to give a warm, sunny garden in the UK an exotic feel. Yucca also work well as climate-change-conscious planting in arid conditions, in dry climate planting known as xeriscaping schemes for more (or increasingly) drought-prone areas. Planting Yucca When choosing a yucca to plant, one of your first and most important decisions will be whether you would like to opt for a tender or a hardy yucca. You will need to decide whether you will grow outdoors in a suitable spot, or will be growing under cover in a container. If you are planting outdoors, make sure that you choose a spot with as much sun as possible, and where necessary, amend the soil to improve drainage before you place your new plant. Dig your planting hole big enough to accommodate the root system, with stones, gravel or grit for drainage at the base. Make sure the plant is rested at the same level in the soil that it was in its pot and that water can drain away freely. If you are growing in a container, make sure that this is of sufficient size to accommodate the plant you have purchased. And make sure the container allows water to drain freely from the base. Fill your container with John Innes No. 2 compost (or equivalent) with 20-30% added grit by volume to improve drainage. Hardy yuccas outdoors should usually be planted between May and September. Yuccas to be grown as houseplants can be planted up into new containers at any time of year. Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Hardy yucca grown outdoors can be moderately low-maintenance plants, which, when placed in the right spot, will require little ongoing care. Water freely during dry periods in summer, but curtail watering in autumn and cease over the winter months. While you may feed with an organic liquid plant feed over the summer months, this is not usually required when yucca are grown in moderately fertile soil. Mulching around perennial plants in your garden each spring with organic matter can help retain moisture in a dry and sunny spot, and maintain fertility over time. Pruning is not usually required on most yucca. If they have multiple rosettes and do become too large or leggy in an area, you can prune rosettes with a sharp saw after flowering, before the end of August. However, to keep things looking neat you may also need to remove damaged leaves and spent flower spikes from your yucca in the spring. This is also true for young or tender yucca grown in containers/indoors. “Large Yuccas, such as Yucca gloriosa, can become multi-stemmed, and this gives the option to take cuttings,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “In mid-summer, after flowering, a rosette can be sawn cleanly from the trunk and the leaves stripped back to stalks for all but a few smaller leaves. “There should be some woody base growth and some of the leaf-clad growth on the cutting. Trim the top and tail of the cutting so it is no more than 18cm tall and place it to half its depth in a pot of compost. “You can even slice it in half lengthways if it is top-heavy.” Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Tender yucca are suitable for indoors cultivation, though pots may also be placed outdoors during the summer months. Water yucca freely over the summer months, remembering that plants grown in containers will typically require more water and dry out more easily than those grown in the ground. However, from the end of September, you should water yucca only sparingly. Water well, but only when the top 5cm of the potting mix has dried out. It is also a good idea to feed container-grown yucca with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed once a fortnight over the growing season, from April to September when growing in containers. If you have placed a container-grown yucca outside over the summer, make sure you move it indoors before temperatures fall below around 7-10°C at night. Move them indoors or into a cool conservatory where the minimum temperatures can be maintained.
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This Is How To Identify And Fix 7 Common Apple Tree Problems & Diseases
IN THIS GUIDE Environmental Issues When Should An Apple Tree Begin Bearing Fruit? Common Apple Tree Diseases 1) Apple Scab 2) Blossom Wilt 3) Brown Rot 4) Honey Fungus 5) Phytophthora Root Rot 6) Apple Canker 7) Coral Spot Resolving Apple Tree Problems References Do you have a problem with your apple tree? This article may reveal the cause of the issue. Apple trees are generally relatively easy and straightforward to grow, and can deliver a high yield of delicious fruits once established. However, apple trees can be affected by a range of common problems and diseases. “Reading through the list of problems that can occur with apples can be offputting, as it seems as if there are legions of pests and diseases just waiting for you to plant an apple,” says Colin Skelly, a horticulture expert who has been awarded the Master of Horticulture status by the RHS. “Rest assured that very few problems are catastrophic and most will be due to environmental conditions that you can do something about. “I have a friend with an apple tree that has canker, is unpruned and leaning at a tower of Pisa-like angle, but fruits in abundance every year. “The soil is a rich loam – the right location is key. “Also, the old saying ‘spend a pound on the plant and a pound on the hole’ is a good one – add plenty of organic matter when planting and regularly mulch.” Here, we will introduce you to some of the most common issues that you may encounter: Environmental Issues If your apple tree is not fruiting as expected, then it is not necessarily the case that your apple tree has a disease. Sometimes, environmental issues may be to blame. Unproductive apple trees may have experienced: Poor growing conditions such as drought, excessive shade, or a lack of nutrients. Lack of a partner for pollination (you may need to plant another apple tree close by). Frost damage to apple blossoms earlier in the year. Poor weather conditions early in the year, which restricted pollinator activity. Blossoms being eaten by birds (such as bullfinches) before fruits could form. However, it is also important to note that an apple tree may not be fruiting simply because it is still young. When Should An Apple Tree Begin Bearing Fruit? It is common for apple trees to take a few years to begin producing well. How long it will take depends on a range of factors, including the cultivar and the rootstock that has been used. It may also be the case that the apple tree is biennial bearing.1 With certain apple tree varieties, you may find that the fruiting pattern is one year of excellent yield, followed by a year with sparser fruit formation. This is more common with certain apple varieties than it is with others. This pattern may be initiated by one of the issues mentioned above, and can be addressed by removing some of the blossoms or fruiting buds to encourage a more moderate yield in a bumper year. Poor growing conditions may sometimes be out of your hands, but can also be due to your own mistakes. Rule out issues such as over or under-watering, and make sure you have positioned your apple tree in a suitable spot before looking for other causes of any issues. Pruning wrongly can also cause issues, so this is something else to consider when troubleshooting apple tree problems. Common Apple Tree Diseases Unfortunately, apple trees can also be affected by a number of diseases. Here are some of the most common ones to look out for: 1) Apple Scab Apple Scab Apple scab is caused by a fungus, Venturia inaequalis. This is spread by airborne spores and overwinters in leaf litter.2 If your tree is infected with apple scab, signs can be observed between mid-spring and leaf-fall in autumn. You may see olive-green spots or blotches on the leaves, which are velvety as they release spores, and then darken over time. Leaves may also drop prematurely. Blistering and cracking may be seen on twigs and brown or black scabby blotches may also emerge on the fruits. Fortunately, mild attacks should only blemish the skin and you can still eat the apples. However, damaged fruits will not store as well. While difficult to eradicate entirely, apple scab reoccurrence can be reduced by disposing of infected twigs and leaves promptly to reduce the amount of fungus around to begin infections. Yields will not usually be significantly reduced provided infected materials are removed promptly. If this is a recurrent problem, more resistant cultivars are available.3 2) Blossom Wilt Blossom Wilt Blossom wilt is another fungal infection which can cause rotting of the blossom and fruiting spurs. On apple trees, the fungus which is usually responsible for this is M. laxa f. sp. mali. Though other M. laxa and the indistinguishable to the naked eye M. fructigena can also be to blame. At flowering time, in the spring, you may see brown and shrivelled blossoms and leaves on the fruiting spurs. Small, buff-coloured fungal pustules can sometimes be seen in wet conditions on the dead plant tissues.4 Again, make sure you remove all affected material promptly to reduce its spread. Also, again, some cultivars are more resistant to this issue than others. 3) Brown Rot Brown Rot Brown rot, as the name suggests, is characterised by brown rotting on the fruit. This is actually caused by the same fungi as blossom wilt – M. laxa or M. fructigena.5 You will see brown rot on the fruits, typically spreading out from wounds which may have been caused by apple scab infection, or been made by birds or other wildlife. Infection will spread between fruits in clusters, and the fruit which has been infected may fall, or it may cling to the tree – hanging on in a mummified state. Do not allow rotted fruit to remain on the tree and remove and dispose of all the infected apples as soon as possible, to reduce the spread of this fungal problem. 4) Honey Fungus Honey fungus is a fungal infection (caused by a number of species of Armillaria fungus) which attacks and kills the roots of many trees, shrubs and perennial plants. Apple trees are, unfortunately, one of the species which can be susceptible. Sadly, this is a serious problem and root damage can kill the tree. The branches may die off in sections over several years, or die back suddenly all at once – often during a hot dry period. You may see cracking of the bark at the base of the trunk, and if you peel back the bark you will see white mycelium. In wet conditions, fruiting fungal bodies (honey-coloured mushrooms) may appear around the base of the tree. Preventing the spread of this dangerous plant pathogen is notoriously difficult. Often, in areas with an infection, getting rid of all infected plants and choosing new plants which are resistant to honey fungus is usually the best option. 5) Phytophthora Root Rot Another serious fungal infection that can attack the roots of an apple tree is phytophthora root rot. After honey fungus, this is the most common cause of root and trunk base decay in apple trees. There are a number of different fungus-like organisms which can be responsible.6 These organisms can survive in the soil for many years, and are especially associated with disease in heavy and/or waterlogged soils. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that you will spot this issue until serious root damage and die-back has already occurred. It can be very difficult to distinguish between this issue, honey fungus, and waterlogging alone. Making sure the soil has good drainage will significantly reduce the chances of this disease taking hold. Sadly, infected trees cannot be saved. As with honey fungus, you will have to get rid of the tree (and any other impacted plants), remove as much topsoil as possible, and replant with less impacted, more resistant species. 6) Apple Canker Apple Canker Apple canker is another fungal problem. It is caused by the fungus Neonectria ditissima. It attacks the bark of apple trees, causing a sunken area where the bark has died back and, eventually, the death of the infected branch. New cankers can form from the middle of spring and then will be present throughout the year. The canker will often start at a bud, or a wound on the tree. Wounds caused by apple scab, frosts or winter damage, or even damage caused by pests like aphids can all be routes for infection. Cankers are typically more serious on wet and heavy, and/or acidic soils, so making sure that drainage is good and reducing pH with liming if necessary can help reduce the likelihood of this issue taking hold. If you spot apple canker, you need to act quickly to cut out infected areas.7 Make sure that you cut back to fresh, green wood. 7) Coral Spot Another fungal infection which can affect apple trees is coral spot. This disease, caused by Nectria cinnebarina, causes dieback of branches. However, this is only a weak pathogen in its own right, so the presence of this fungal infection usually indicates that there are other underlying issues. This fungal infection is easily identifiable by small coral-pink pustules which can be seen on infected branches. Prune out infections promptly, cutting back to healthy wood in dry weather conditions. If the plant has repeated attacks, look for other things that may be weakening your apple tree. Resolving Apple Tree Problems These are of course just some of the common issues which can pose problems for an apple tree. There are other problems and diseases to consider – however, ruling out all of the above will certainly help you move closer to working out what is wrong, even if you have not found the exact issue. References 1. Finding the triggers of biennial bearing in apples. (2019, September 3). APAL. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://apal.org.au/finding-the-triggers-of-biennial-bearing-in-apples/ 2. Apple scab of apples and crabapples. (n.d.). UMN Extension. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/apple-scab 3. Apple Scab. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/scabs/apple-scab 4. Apple Best Practice Guide. (n.d.). AHDB. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://horticulture.ahdb.org.uk/knowledge-library/apple-best-practice-guide 5. Marsden, C. (n.d.). Brown Rot. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/brown-rot/ 6. Apple Disease Control. (n.d.). New Mexico State University. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_h/H317/ 7. Orchard fruit tree diseases. (2016, November 4). People’s Trust for Endangered Species. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://ptes.org/campaigns/traditional-orchard-project/orchard-practical-guides/fruit-tree-health/orchard-fruit-tree-diseases/
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Corkscrew Willow: Grow This Contorted Tree For Its Twisted Stems And Trunk
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Corkscrew Willow? How To Grow Corkscrew Willow Plant Care Propagation Common Problems Expected Lifespan References Corkscrew willow trees are ornamental trees that can be great choices for many gardens. Corkscrew willow – Salix babylonica var. pekinensis ‘Tortuosa’ – also known as ‘Salix matsudana Tortuosa’ and ‘Dragon’s Claw Willow’, is an attractive ornamental tree. This is one of a number of Salix matsudana (Chinese Willows) which are now included within the Salix babylonica species. Overview Botanical Name Salix babylonica var. pekinensis ‘Tortuosa’ Common Name(s) Corkscrew Willow, Dragon’s Claw Willow Plant Type Tree Native Area Temperate Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow catkins When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months March, April When To Prune February, March S. babylonica is a species of willow which is native to dry areas in China and Korea, though it has long been cultivated elsewhere in Asia – and these willows are now commonly grown in many gardens around the world.1 Corkscrew willow is the most popular horticultural variant of the type of S. babylonica (formerly referred to as S. matsudana). It is famed for its strongly twisted stems and trunk. The contorted forms of this tree make it a popular ornamental tree in gardens. This is a fast-growing deciduous tree, with narrow, twisted leaves; it bears insignificant yellowish catkins in the spring. The form of the tree is its major draw. The tree is a fairly large one, which can grow to an ultimate height of more than 12m and has an ultimate spread of around 4-8m. Why Grow A Corkscrew Willow? Corkscrew willows, as mentioned above, are most commonly grown for their contorted branches, which create interesting and attractive shapes in the plant architecture of a garden. Like other trees with interesting forms, these trees look good throughout the year, but are particularly prized for the interest they add to a winter garden, when the trees have lost their leaves. Like all other willows (members of the Salix genus) corkscrew willows have salicin in their fresh bark.2 Willow bark can also be used to make a rooting compound, that fosters good root formation on plant cuttings – and can improve results in plant propagation. Added to water in fresh flower arrangements, it is also said to keep fresh flowers looking good for longer.3 How To Grow Corkscrew Willow Corkscrew willow should only be grown in a position where there is space to do so. This plant, as mentioned above, can grow rather quickly into a fairly large tree, so while it can be a good choice for larger gardens, it might not be the best option in a smaller space. If you have a smaller garden then you might wish to consider instead S. × sepulcralis ‘Erythroflexuosa’. This is a smaller willow tree that also has contorted stems, but which will typically grow to between 4-8m in height, with a normal width of between 2.5-4m. “If you are looking for something up to 6m and like the corkscrew look but your soil is not moist most of the year, a good alternative is the slower growing corkscrew hazel (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’),” Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist, recommends. Preferred Soil & Drainage This alternative is sometimes referred to as ‘Golden Corkscrew Willow’. It prefers somewhat moister conditions and can also be a better willow to choose for poorly drained sites. These trees do best in a clay, loam or sandy soil which is moderately fertile and deep. It is unfussy about pH, but will tend not to thrive in chalky conditions. Moist but well-drained or well-drained conditions will suit them best; these trees need to be grown in full sun and definitely will not thrive in even partial shade. However, they can be suitable for exposed as well as sheltered spots and are H5 hardy in the UK. Where To Grow Them Corkscrew willow is a tree that will suit a relatively large garden with a relaxed and low-maintenance feel. It can be a good choice for an ornamental woodland garden, accompanied by other trees and shrubs of architectural interest, or grown alone as a specimen tree. One important thing to note is that willow roots are shallow and can cause problems when planted too close to infrastructure. They can break up paving or paths, and could cause damage if placed too close to buildings. Planting Corkscrew Willow Corkscrew willows are best planted between September and November, though bare root trees can be planted at any time over the dormant period. “Supported with appropriate watering, container-grown plants can be planted at any time, but dry periods should be avoided,” says Dan. Make a hole bigger than the root ball of the tree, with some good quality compost or organic matter at the base of the hole. Water in well, re-firm the soil in place around the new tree, and mulch well around the base (taking care not to pile mulch around the trunk) with organic matter. A mulch of wood chippings can be a good choice. Plant Care When placed in an appropriate location with suitable growing conditions, corkscrew willow trees are generally a low maintenance and easy to care for plant. Salix matsudana ‘Tortuosa’ But there are a number of things to bear in mind – Watering Like most trees, corkscrew willows will require a little more watering until they become established. So make sure that you water well during dry periods over the first year or so. After this, rainfall will usually be sufficient, but be sure to water during periods of prolonged drought. Remember, mulching each spring will retain moisture in the soil and stop the growing area from drying out as quickly. Feeding Mulching is also usually all that will be required to maintain fertility for your willow tree, as long as you are growing in moderately fertile soil. If growth is not as strong as it should be, you can also consider adding a general-purpose organic fertiliser in the spring. Pruning Corkscrew willows are usually well-formed trees which require little pruning. However, light pruning can be undertaken in March. Remove any branches which are dead, damaged or diseased. The aim is to create an open structure without branches touching – this will help keep the tree healthy and happy. Propagation Willows are incredibly easy to propagate and corkscrew willows are no exception. Stems (hardwood cuttings) can simply be placed into the ground in autumn, where they will tend to take root easily and can be moved to their final growing positions the following year. Common Problems Willow trees are not usually killed by pests and diseases, but can be prone to certain problems. Corkscrew willows might, for example, be subject to aphid, caterpillar, leaf beetle or sawfly infestation. Keeping a good biodiversity and balance in your garden can help keep pest numbers down. Make sure you plant around your willow tree to attract predatory insects and other beneficial wildlife which will help keep pests at bay. Fungal Issues Willows like corkscrew willow can be affected by fungal diseases such as willow anthracnose, and rust. Willow anthracnose causes brown or black spots to appear on the leaves, and irregular lesions may be seen on young stems. Affected leaves and shoots may be shed, leaving the crown of the tree sparse. Prune out affected areas quickly to prevent its spread (it is worth noting that S. ‘Erythroflexuosa’, the alternative tree mentioned above, is resistant to anthracnose). In the case of rust, pustules will be seen on leaves and stems – usually, rust will only reduce vigour, but in extreme cases can occasionally kill the tree. Again, remove diseased material as quickly as possible and keep the material away from your composting system. Expected Lifespan When cared for properly, corkscrew willow trees should remain in your garden for many years to come. However, this is a fairly short-lived species, and will usually live around 30-50 years before dieback starts to occur. References 1. Salix babylonica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:777133-1 2. Salix matsudana. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Salix+matsudana 3. Wise, K., Gill, H., & Selby-Pham, J. (2020). Willow bark extract and the biostimulant complex Root Nectar® increase propagation efficiency in chrysanthemum and lavender cuttings. Scientia Horticulturae, 263, 109108. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scienta.2019.109108
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