Growing
How To Grow Cress - Perfect For Children's Activities Or A Windowsill Salad Crop
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Cress Harvesting References A dash of cress does lift an egg sandwich to the next level – but that’s far from capturing the full breadth and glory of the flavour contributions this humble leaf provides. And while cress is typically fairly cheap, there are also a few other potential benefits. Firstly, it’s as easy as anything – cress is one of the easiest things we’ve ever grown, making it a great introduction for new gardeners or for those of us trying to show young people the wonders of growing. “Cress germinates so easily that it makes it extremely useful as a plant for use in children’s activities, but it is also a great easy-to-grow salad crop for a window sill,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. And second, it’s versatile – there are several ways you can grow this plant (including inside eggs, as above), making it fun and flexible. Overview Botanical Name Lepidium sativum Common Name(s) Cress, Pepperwort, Pepper Grass, Poor Man’s Pepper Plant Type Annual / Herb Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Sprouts year-round Flowers None When To Sow Year-Round Harvesting Months Year-Round There are a few plants that go by the name cress, and while it’s unlikely that this confusion will lead to you buying the wrong plant, let us clarify. This plant is called Lepidium sativum. It’s the cress we’re all familiar with, and it’s closely related to mustard, as evidenced by its feisty flavour.1 In different parts of the UK this plant goes by regional names like ‘Pepperwort’, ‘Pepper Grass’ or, somewhat judgmentally, ‘Poor Man’s Pepper’. How To Grow Cress Now you’re properly introduced, let’s take a look at how to grow cress. Growing Indoors Growing cress indoors is easy – all you need is a container and something to put the seeds on (potting mix will do, but you can use kitchen roll or toilet roll as well). Here are the steps – Either spread a thin layer of potting mix, or line the bottom of the container with a layer of tissue a couple of sheets thick. Add a little water to get the mix or tissue moist. Not too wet! Sprinkle a few seeds on top. Cover the top of the container with cling film to trap moisture while letting light in. This will encourage better growth. Water occasionally, either with a gently running tap or with a spray bottle. If you prefer the aesthetic of growing cress in a flowerpot instead of a container, you can grow it more traditionally as well. To do this, add soil to a flowerpot and spread seeds on top, then push each one gently just below the surface. Cress also works well in a windowsill herb garden. While cress grows just fine on tissue, it will have access to far more nutrients when grown in soil. This will keep it growing for longer and extend your harvest – something to bear in mind when deciding how to grow it! Growing Outdoors If you’ve decided to grow outside, cress likes a cool and shady spot. Growing in direct sunlight leads to bitterness, making it much less pleasant to eat. Here are the steps for growing cress outdoors – Get hold of some cress seeds. Find your cool and shady spot. Sow seeds in rows, sprinkling a good amount of seeds into each row. They should be around half a centimetre below the surface. Water the cress right away, then water each day. Once your seeds start to germinate you should thin them out, leaving the strongest plants a couple of centimetres from each other. When growing cress outdoors you have a few options to make things a bit more interesting. First up is intercropping, which involves growing cress around other plants. Carrots and cress are a good pairing, as are cress and radishes. You can also set yourself up with a continuous harvest by staggering planting: to do this just plant out a new row each fortnight, starting in early spring. It’s OK to plant out cress before the last frost as it’s fairly hardy, so bear this in mind when planning planting times. Harvesting One thing you’ll notice about cress is that it grows quickly. It’s ready to eat within a couple of weeks of planting and tastes better when young, so don’t leave it too long to harvest. Harvesting is easy, too: simply trim down the stalks with scissors or, if you’ve got time to spare, by pinching them with your fingers. Once harvested the stalks will continue to grow, giving you more cress in a few days time. Most crops will yield 3-5 harvests before going to seed, at which point they’ll start to taste bitter and unpleasant. While cress is in its early seed leaf stage you can eat the whole stalk and seeds if you want to. Whether you go for indoor or outdoor growing, we’re sure you’ll get a lot from this plant. References 1. Garden Cress. (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/guide_taxa/341453
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Grow Borage As A Fantastic Border Plant For Pollinators - Experts Share How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Borage Varieties How To Grow Borage Soil Requirements Sowing Plant Care Watering & Feeding Deadheading Composting Harvesting Common Problems References As an attractive border plant, enticer of pollinators and herb for salads and drinks, borage is a versatile and vibrant addition to any garden. Also known as bugloss or starflower, borage is a hardy herb that’s easy to grow, great for encouraging biodiversity and attractive for its colourful blossoms. Most varieties are annuals, meaning they’ll complete their entire life cycle within a single season, but there is a perennial version of borage that also yields good results in a backyard display. It’s a huge favourite among the bees and butterflies, making it a great choice to plant in among other herbs, fruits and veggies since it will enhance the chances of pollination. “Borage is so popular with pollinators because it produces so many flowers that are resource-rich,” according to RHS Master of Horticulture Colin Skelly. “These flowers supply large amounts of nectar that is re-filled rapidly when consumed and is accessible to lots of pollinators. “You can always hear a good pollinator plant because of the hum of feeding pollinators – listen next time you’re in the garden and find out which plants in your garden pollinators are making a bee-line for!” Although Borage is not as famous or as commonplace as other herbs like basil, mint and thyme, borage is a superb culinary condiment in its own right. Overview Botanical Name Borago officinalis Common Name(s) Borage; Starflower Plant Type Annual Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Hairy leaves with long stems Flowers Blue, star-shaped flowers When To Sow March, April Plant Out May, June Harvesting Months June, July, August, September, October All parts of the plant (excluding the roots) can be harvested and eaten, imparting a cool and refreshing flavour to food and drinks that are reminiscent of cucumber.1 Its blooms are most commonly used to garnish drinks or infuse teas, while its leaves can add zip and zing to salads, sandwiches, dressings and side dishes. With so many attractive attributes, then, it’s little wonder that borage has quite an illustrious history. Are you won over yet? Follow these simple tips to encourage plentiful borage in your own garden. Common Borage Varieties Most borage varieties are annual, which means that they will die out within a single year, though many are very adept at self-seeding. On the other hand, there are some cultivars that are perennial. Although the flowering season of these is generally shorter, they do last for several years or more. Here are four of the most common varieties to choose from: B. officinalis The most widely available borage variety, Borago officinalis is also the most popular among UK gardens. It’s an annual capable of growing up to 60cm in size and boasts star-shaped flowers of a brilliant blue in summer. B. officinalis ‘Variegata’ An offshoot of the common borage variety named above, this grows to a similar height and also has blue flowers, though these are of a softer hue. Its distinctive feature is the white mottling on its leaves. B. officinalis ‘Alba’ Sometimes known as white borage, this is a slightly sturdier specimen than the two mentioned above which blooms later in the year. Its biggest difference, however, is the whiteness of its blossoms. B. pygmae The Latin name of this perennial strain of borage indicates that it’s smaller than its annual brethren, growing to around half (30cm) their size. It has a creeping habit and enjoys a short life, but will come back again every year. Deciding which type of borage you prefer in your borders and backyard displays will depend primarily upon whether you’re looking for a perennial or an annual, what size plant you wish for the space available to you and whether you’d prefer blue or white blooms. How To Grow Borage It does insist upon exposure to the sun, however, so make sure you plant it in a spot that receives sunlight for at least half of the day. Soil Requirements Thankfully, borage is an unfussy plant that will grow in most soil types with little in the way of fertilisation or maintenance. The plant absolutely hates waterlogged soil, so if your garden is particularly slow draining, you may wish to prepare the area with fine-grit or gravel. It prefers soil that isn’t particularly fertile, so there’s usually no need to add any artificial additives to its planting environment. Mulching with organic matter is not strictly necessary, but will certainly encourage a fuller and larger plant. Sowing Ideally, you should seed borage exactly where you wish it to flower, since it doesn’t take too kindly to transplantation. It can handle a potted environment if that’s preferable, though you should ensure that you select a pot large enough for its roots to grow and spread – that means at least 30cm in diameter and 25cm in depth. The best time to sow annual borage seeds is in mid-spring (April/May), though a second sowing is possible later in the season. Perennial borage seeds will also perform best when planted at this time, but are more forgiving if put into the ground at any other time of the year. The plant is quite effective at self-seeding, so if that’s something you wish to encourage, simply leave the faded flowers on the plant. If not, remove them as soon as they have finished blooming and collect the seeds for replanting the next year. To plant, simply dig out a little hole 1.5cm deep and place a single seed in it, then cover over with moist soil. Space out your rows 30cm apart and once the seedlings have begun to break through and reach a height of around 5cm, thin them out to ensure there is at least 30cm between them. If they grow any closer together, their foliage can begin to develop symptoms of mildew, as air movement will be restricted. Plant Care As alluded above, borage is invariably a hardy and stress-free plant to grow – it’s even been known to thrive in rubbish dumps and at the sides of roads and highways! Watering & Feeding Borage is from the Mediterannean, so it copes with low rainfall but might need to be topped up with your own water in times of drought or dryness. If growing indoors in a container, it will require frequent irrigation, which could even mean daily watering during summer. The same goes for its feeding habits – fertilisers do not need to be used unless you’re growing it in a pot using store-bought compost. Deadheading As for maintenance, annuals do not require any pruning whatsoever. Perennial varieties may demand occasional paring back during the peak of the warmer months. Having said that, both will benefit from stripping away faded flowerheads to encourage further growth of more flowers during summer, though it’s not strictly necessary. Deadheading will prevent the plant going to seed so make sure this is something that you wish to prevent. Composting Once the flowering season of an annual has run its course, simply dig up the whole plant by its roots and use it as compost for the following season, as the nutrient-rich leaves will enhance fertilisation of the soil next time around. If you are going to use the plant as compost, be sure to remove its seed heads first, however, or you could soon find borage popping up all over the garden! Harvesting The leaves and the flowers are the parts of the plant most commonly harvested for culinary purposes, both of which should be plucked in the morning after the dew has dried, but before the sun has reached its full strength and made either wilt. The leaves lend themselves well to spicing up salads and dressings with a refreshingly cucumber-like zing. Alternatively, you can sauté or blanch them as you would with other leafy greens like kale and spinach. If you wish to use them as dried seasoning, simply hang them in an airy room for a day or two, or else pop them in the oven for 10 minutes. Dried leaves also work well as a salt substitute. They work especially well when frozen into ice cubes, which is a great way to conserve them if you have too many. Common Problems In general, borage is a resilient grower that won’t succumb to many pests or blights. However, there are a handful of potential issues you should be aware of, including: Mildew As mentioned above, mildew is a debilitating consequence of planting borage plants too close together. Thankfully, it’s normally solved with ease – simply space the seedlings at least 30cm apart to allow plentiful airflow beneath. Watering it at the base of the stem rather than onto the leaves can also help. Blackfly Otherwise known as black bean aphids and bean leaf aphids, blackflies have been known to have their heads turned by borage foliage, too. In itself, this isn’t strictly a problem and shouldn’t endanger the survival of the plant; in fact, it can actually be a boon by distracting the pest from bean crops. Woolly Bear Caterpillar These tiny creepy-crawlies are about as furry as they are unfussy and they’ll happily feast on any low-lying foliage they come across. In practical terms, that means that encountering them on borage plants means they’ll likely be gobbling up other produce too, so control them with neem oil. Painted Lady Butterfly This pest causes more mild frustration than all-out desperation, usually concentrating its attacks on a single part of the plant rather than the whole thing. Its larvae do more damage than the actual butterfly, though neither are too severe. Deter it with sticky traps or natural insecticides. Flea Beetle Flea beetles come in a variety of different kinds, all of which love to gnaw through the leaves of borage plants. Though they don’t do too much damage beyond the cosmetic in moderation, if you get an infestation, it can lead to more serious problems. Clean up fallen leaves and other debris to remove their habitat in late autumn. References 1. Borage recipes. (n.d.). BBC Food. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/borage
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Cineraria: Clearing Up Some Confusion When Growing Either Plant Type
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Dusty Miller Pericallis x hybrida Cineraria Types How To Grow Cineraria Growing From Seed Planting Out Cineraria Plant Care Common Problems Cineraria are popular florists’ plants, but there is some confusion over the name. Cineraria is a term often applied broadly to plants in the Senecio genus or other related genera. It is also a name used to refer to Pericallis x hybrida, sometimes called ‘Florist’s cineraria’, a group of hybrids bred from Canary island species now technically referred to as Pericallis. Strictly speaking, the genus Cineraria is now restricted to a smaller group of South African plant species. Many of the plants commonly referred to as Cineraria are not actually recognised by botanists as Cineraria anymore. Pericallis x hybrida “It can be quite tricky to keep up with the changes to botanical names,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I use the Royal Horticultural Society and Kew websites as reputable resources for the correct names. “Often the older names will persist amongst gardeners and nurseries, as with Cineraria, but it is good to try and keep up as classification becomes more accurate and is based on DNA rather than just the physical characteristics.” Nonetheless, there are two main types of plant referred to as Cineraria which are grown in UK gardens; these are the types that we will concentrate on in this article. The first type is Jacobaea maritima (dusty miller), and the second type is Pericallis cruenta x P. lanata, AKA P. x hybrida – these are greenhouse or annual bedding plant varieties commonly called simply ‘Cineraria’. Overview Botanical Name Jacobaea maritima / Pericallis x hybrida Common Name(s) Dusty Miller, Florist’s Cineraria Plant Type Annual / Houseplant Native Area Italy / or Hybridized garden forms Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Evergreen or deciduous Flowers Various When To Sow March, April, May Plant Out June, July Harvesting Months June, July, August In this article, we will introduce both Senecio cineraria and P. x hybrida, since both of these plants are commonly grown as pot plants or, less commonly, as border plants in the UK. Dusty Miller Jacobaea maritima, ‘dusty miller’ or ‘silver ragwort’, is a subshrub typically grown as an annual in UK gardens. Although correctly known as Jacobaea maritima, it is still widely referred to as as Senecio cineraria. It has striking, silver-white leaves that look like they have been dusted with frost, which means that they stand out well against green shades of foliage, and help to add interest to pots, planters, beds or borders. It is H4 hardy which means that it is hardy throughout much of the UK, and may well overwinter outdoors in a sunny, sheltered spot. Though usually grown for their foliage rather than their flowers, these plants sometimes also have yellow, daisy-like flowers in summer. Pericallis x hybrida P. x hybrida are evergreen perennials which are also often grown as annuals in the UK. They form low clumps of dark green foliage, and bear loose groups of bright coloured blooms over the summer months. They are often H3 hardy and may overwinter successfully in a greenhouse, or in the mildest parts of the UK. Their large daisy-like flowers can be very attractive in beds, borders or containers over the summer months, and come in many shades from blue, to purple, to pink, to red, to white – often with dark centres which can be in a different colour. Often, these flowering plants are grown as temporary annual houseplants indoors or under cover. Cineraria Types When it comes to Cineraria, which type you will choose to grow will largely depend on where you plan to grow them. Indoors, you will usually be looking at Pericallis ssp. In your garden, these may still be an option, but less tender Senecio will perhaps be easier to grow outdoors. If you are looking for a Silver Ragwort to grow, try ‘Silver Dust’ which has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. ‘Silver Dust’ If you are looking at Florist’s cineraria, then the Senetti Series offers many of the most common choices. Some interesting named varieties are: ‘Jester Scarlet’ ‘Magic Salmon’ ‘Sunsenedibu’ ‘Sunsenere’ ‘Sunsenereba’ How To Grow Cineraria Jacobaea maritima will grow well in any well-drained soil in sunny position, in pots or in the ground. It works well for beds, planters or containers which face south or west, and can cope with drought and windy conditions, as well as a more sheltered spot. P. x hybrida cineraria does best in full sun or partial shade; its tolerance to shade is one of the reasons which is why it can work well as a houseplant for the summer, as well as being grown outdoors as a pot plant or summer bedding plant. ‘Senetti Magenta Bicolour’ It can thrive in any fertile, well-drained soil – though if you plan to overwinter your plants, they must be kept in a dry, cool, frost-free spot. Growing From Seed S. cineraria or Jacobaea maritima seeds should be sown in spring, between March and May at 19-24°C for optimal germination rates. You can also take semi-ripe cuttings of these plants in the mid-late summer, or purchase plants from your local garden centre or plant nursery if you prefer. Plant out in beds or containers in May or June. In milder areas, it may overwinter outside as mentioned, but you may prefer to grow it as an annual, or grow it in containers which can be moved indoors in autumn when frost threatens. P. x hybrida cineraria seeds are sometimes sown in December, but when grown indoors, the seeds can be sown any time throughout the year. The seeds are very small and are pressed into the surface of the potting mix or growing medium. They are best sown in a propagator, and provided with temperatures of 18-20°C. Shoots appear around two weeks after sowing, and seedlings are then potted up and should be kept at around 15°C for best results. These plants can also be propagated by means of semi-ripe cuttings in mid-late summer. Planting Out You can also, of course, take the easy option and purchase bedding plants. Whether you sow or propagate your own plants, or buy your Cineraria, again, you should plant them out in May or June. Treat them as annuals or overwinter them as above in a dry and frost-free place as mentioned above. However, it is worth noting that these Cineraria rarely bloom more than once, and so they do not make great perennials in most UK gardens and are best treated as annuals. Cineraria Plant Care J. maritima is a fairly easy plant to grow in containers or in your garden and it is an ornamental plant that we’d definitely recommend. In order to encourage the plants to put on plenty of new foliage growth, it is generally best to cut back any long shoots to suppress flowering – since the foliage is the main decorative feature you are after. Florist’s cineraria are beautiful flowering plants, no doubt, but they are short-lived and will take a lot more work. If bought as bedding plants, it is worth noting that this can be an expensive option – and not the most sustainable choice. These flowers can be finicky – requiring just the right light levels, amount of water, humidity etc. and only providing blooms in summer (or other seasons when grown indoors) for a relatively short length of time. Common Problems Cineraria can also be plagued by a range of pests and problems: Cineraria are beloved by aphids, thrips and whiteflies. Spider mites are also a common issue. Fungal issues such as mildews, root rot and common rust can also commonly occur. In your garden, be sure to maintain a balance in the garden ecosystem with as much biodiversity as possible. Use companion plants and attract beneficial predators to help you keep pest numbers down – for example, marigolds can work well as shown above. For home growers, there are better choices perhaps, than these fussy flowers, but many still love to grow them for their beautiful blooms.
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Mangetout: How To Grow This Excellent Crop Vertically, Even In A Small Space Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Mangetout? Mangetout Varieties How To Grow Mangetout Mangetout Care Common Problems Harvesting Mangetout References Mangetout are an excellent crop to grow in a small space garden. These are pea varieties where you eat pods and all before the seeds develop. They can crop prolifically and provide a far greater yield than podding peas, which can make them a great choice for a smaller garden. Eaten straight from the plant, or used in salads or other recipes, they are a delicious crop to grow yourself at home. Overview Botanical Name Pisum sativum Common Name(s) Mangetout, Snow Peas, Sugar Snap Peas Plant Type Annual Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2-H4 Foliage Annual, some varieties can overwinter with protection Flowers White, edible flowers When To Sow February, March, April, May, June, September, October Harvesting Months June, July, August, September, October Mangetouts are peas which are eaten pods and all – the name, in French, literally means ‘eat all’.1 While the pods of all peas are edible, those from shelling pea varieties can be stringy, and not necessarily as pleasant or palatable as varieties that are specifically mangetout. In the US and elsewhere, mangetout peas are typically described as ‘snow peas’ and ‘snap peas’. Sugar snap peas are usually those with a rounder pod and crunchier texture. Mangetout peas can be eaten as flat pods, like those described as snow peas elsewhere – or they can be eaten with peas in the rounded pods, like sugar snap peas. All mangetout, snow peas and snap peas, like typical shelling garden peas, are known botanically as Pisum sativum. These are simply varieties of this annual plant that have been bred for tender and sweet, delicious pods. Both snow peas and snap peas, also described as mangetout, are within the Macrocarpon genra of Pisum sativum – P. sativum var. Macrocarpon.2 Why Grow Mangetout? Mangetout are a high-yielding and low-effort crop, perfect for gardeners old and new – peas are a staple crop in many UK gardens. However, peas that are shelled from their pods often do not deliver a high yield for the space they take up. Shelling peas are removed from their pods when mature, so pods and plants are all simply composted, often leaving little more than a few handfuls of peas. When growing mangetout, however, you get more ‘bang for your buck’. Harvesting the pods early and often encourages more flowers and pods to form, so you can get a lot more from one pea plant. High Yields Since you are eating the pods too, you will yield a higher weight of produce overall, and therefore, eat more of the plant. Mangetout also save you the labour of shelling, which can take up a lot of time if you grow a lot of peas – this can therefore be a better choice for a lower maintenance and less time-consuming garden. Mangetout peas can also be harvested and out of the garden sooner, making way for other crops. Nitrogen Fixing Like other peas, they are nitrogen-fixing plants, which can be used in crop rotation plans, and to maintain fertility in an organic garden. One downside of mangetout is that since you harvest before maturity, you will not usually be able to save the seeds for next year. However, leave one plant in place and allow some pods to fully mature, and you can still save seeds and become more self-sufficient in your garden. Like shelled peas, mangetout can also be frozen to preserve them for the months to come. Mangetout Varieties ‘Carouby de Mausanne’ There are a range of mangetout varieties to consider growing in UK gardens; some popular varieties include: ‘Bijou’ Giant sugar pea ‘Carouby de Mausanne’ mangetout ‘Delikett’ sugar snap ‘Golden Sweet’ yellow podded ‘Norli’ sugar pea ‘Oregon sugar pod’ ‘Shiraz’ purple podded peas ‘Purple Magnolia’ purple podded snap pea ‘Sweet Horizon’ When choosing which peas to grow, remember to consider the height to which they will grow. Though dwarf varieties can sometimes be grown without, most peas will do best when provided with some type of support (more on this below). How To Grow Mangetout Where To Grow Like other pea varieties, mangetout types will grow well in full sun or light, dappled shade. They will do well in most soil types, and can also be grown relatively easily in containers, especially those with plenty of depth. They can thrive in any typical kitchen garden or vegetable plot, and will also be good companions for a range of your other edible crops due to their nitrogen-fixing properties. Consider growing mangetout or other pea varieties in beds alongside crops with high nitrogen requirements, or following peas by brassicas or other nitrogen-hungry plants in a crop rotation plan. Mangetouts on supports can also provide shade for other crops – spinach for example, which can do with shade to avoid issues with bolting in summer. Sowing & Planting Mangetout should usually be sown indoors in March, or outside in your garden in April, May and up to early June. Successional sowing can lead to a prolonged harvesting period. While peas will usually germinate well in the ground, it is sometimes better to sow indoors in modules or small pots/seed trays to avoid losing the seeds to rodents or other pests early in the year. “Only sow one seed per container or module, to minimise the root disturbance that they resent,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. There are a number of different schools of thought when it comes to spacing for peas, and spacing will in part depend on the variety or varieties you have chosen to grow. Peas are often placed around 5-7.5cm apart, in 15cm double or triple rows around 30cm apart, often along a trellis or a row of twigs for the peas to cling to as they grow. The width and spacing within rows can vary and there are no precise rules. In a square foot garden, peas are typically spaced with 8-9 per square foot, with support. “Though canes offer great support for mangetout, you have to be careful with their sharp tips when harvesting, as they can be at eye level,” says Peter. “Therefore, it is important to use cane caps or, if you fancy a quaint Victorian-style kitchen garden, small clay pots resting on the cane ends are really decorative – as long as their hole is smaller than the cane’s diameter.” Some people simply broadcast pea seeds over a wide row (c. 30cm wide) 2.5-5cm apart and still have great results. I find that double rows, or wide rows with broadcasted peas both work well, and provide the maximum yield for a given area – and prefer these methods to single rows – but you may find you prefer single rows. Feel free to experiment a little with sowing peas to see what works best in your garden. Generally, they are sown around 3cm deep. Mangetout Care Make sure that you have provided support for your peas, and train them as they grow so that they cling to their supports where necessary. Support can be a trellis or other vertical structure along the side of a bed, branching twigs within the bed at regular intervals, or poles and wire/twine strung around a wide row, for example. Watering Make sure, also, that you keep your peas well watered, and regularly check moisture levels in the soil. Remember, mangetout grown in containers will need to be watered more frequently, but mangetout will require less water than peas which will be grown to maturity for shelling peas. Fertilising One of the things that makes peas so easy to grow is that they will not usually require additional fertilisation. Mostly, they can be left more or less to their own devices; just get rid of problematic weeds to make sure the plants have the space to grow. Common Problems If you have mice or voles, these can be one of the most problematic pests when it comes to growing mangetout in your garden. Planting indoors early in the season will reduce losses and avoid the loss of all your seeds to these hungry rodents. If pigeons are a persistent problem, and are eating your mangetout seedlings before they get the chance to develop and grow, consider netting your crop, or creating some other physical barrier. You might also consider growing peas inside a polytunnel or row cover structure (perhaps alongside cabbage family plants which can also be bothered by these pests). If you see a dusty white powder on your peas, this is likely powdery mildew. This fungal issue is less likely to occur if you keep the soil around your mangetout moist, or provide shade to create cooler growing conditions. “Pea and bean weevils may also chew notches out of leaf margins, but their presence rarely impacts yields,” says Peter. Harvesting Mangetout Mangetout and sugar snap peas should typically be harvested when the pods reach around 5-8cm long, and the tiny seeds become visible inside the pods. Some varieties can be harvested as few as 10 weeks from sowing, so much sooner than many other typical garden crops. Some are harvested while the pods are still flat, while other varieties are harvested once the pods round out with small immature peas. Make sure you know which variety you are growing and what it should look like at harvest time. Remember, if you have too many to eat now, you can also consider freezing them for later use. If you do not already grow mangetout in your garden, then this is an easy and usually hassle-free crop that you should most definitely consider. References 1. Mangetout definition and meaning. (2023). In Collins English Dictionary. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/mangetout 2. Stephens, J. (2018, November 5). Pisum sativum. University of Florida. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/MV109
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Arum Lily: These Plants Will Thrive Growing In Moist Soil, But Often Need Winter Protection
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Where To Grow Arum Lily How To Grow Arum Lilies Plant Care Common Problems References The Arum Lily produces a flower that is simple yet chic, looking for all the world like a designer-sculpted piece in minimalist style. One attribute that is definitely not minimalist is the amazingly wide range of brilliant ‘popping’ colours this flower comes in. Not a true flower, the form comprises a one-sheet ‘scarf’ – the bract – wrapped around a bright spike – the inflorescence. Overview Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica Common Name(s) Arum Lily Plant Type Perennial Native Area South Africa / Lesotho Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Herbaceous or semi-evergreen Flowers White, funnel-shaped flowers When To Sow / Plant Out March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August Whoever has seen an Arum Lily knows that it is not a ‘regular’ flower. It features a prominent central protuberance, wrapped around by a single long petal as if it were a scarf. They come in somewhat different dimensions and appearances and in quite a range of colour tones. In fact, that protuberance is a spadix – a spike that is actually an inflorescence of tiny florets. And that long, wrap-around ‘petal’ is the spathe which is a type of bract – a special raised leaf that is typically coloured and shields one or more flowers. What is called ‘Arum Lily’ is not really a lily at all. It is not even a member of the Lily family – Liliaceae – let alone the Lily genus – Lilium. The Arum Lily is a member of Genus Zantedeschia within the Family Araceae.1 Various species of the Zantedeschia genus are often interchangeably called ‘Arum Lily’ and ‘Calla Lily’, especially in North America. In this guide we refer only to species Zantedeschia aethiopica and its cultivars as ‘Arum Lily’. The species bears a flower that has a pure white spathe encircling a sunny yellow spadix. Cultivars produce flowers with spadices in colours ranging from creamy white through pale orange to deep purple and even glazed black, and spathes in hues ranging from white and pastel pink to deep purple and grey-purple to blackish hues. Habitat & Growing Conditions Z. aethiopica is native to the southeastern region of South Africa.2 It has been naturalised in quite a disparate patchwork of regions and countries on all continents (except Antarctica) including the United Kingdom. The plant inhabits all types of damp low-lying ground. It grows in fields and meadows by waterways and ponds, and even in swamps and marshes in its native habitat in (some provinces of) South Africa. In the wild it is not found in dry ground or in the highlands. Z. aethiopica itself and some cultivars are hardy to H4 which means that they are ‘just enough’ hardy in the United Kingdom and are best protected during the winter while most cultivars are hardy only to H1C – basically, not hardy at all. Where To Grow Arum Lily If you live in a region that does not suffer from frost or frigid winters, you can plant the species and those cultivars that are hardy to H4 in beds and, ideally, near ponds and any other waterways where these plants will thrive in the moist soil, though they would need winter protection. Because of its habitat preferences, this plant is a natural choice for water gardens; and because of its ‘flower’, it is a great choice for contemporary gardens and modernist, minimal-style gardens. “I plant Arum Lily for its leaves as well as its flowers,” shares Consultant Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The foliage of the Arum Lily is exotic and can work with other foliage plants to create an exotic feel, particular around water. “Its flowers have an otherworldly quality to really catch the attention in summer, shining out in the partial shade that they favour.” The unusual ‘flower’ makes Arum Lily a top choice as a specimen plant to be grown in containers set by the doorway or on a parapet, some cultivars being more suited to such display than others. If you grow the tender cultivars in containers you will not only get an accent plant with a most unusual flower, it will be very convenient to overwinter indoors or in a greenhouse. Though the Arum Lily’s water needs are high, their sunlight needs are low, so they can make very attractive year-round houseplants. How To Grow Arum Lilies Although Arum Lilies can be grown from seed, the plants will not bloom until the third year so they are most commonly grown from rhizomes. Also, seeds require a consistent temperature within a very narrow range to germinate. Avoid growing cultivars with a hardiness rating of H1C in the ground, otherwise you will have to remove the rhizomes every autumn and store them indoors, making sure that they are kept damp. If you grow the H4 varieties outdoors then, in more regions of the United Kingdom than not, you will be able to allow them to stay in the ground through the winter; simply protect the rhizomes with horticultural fleece or a layer of leaf mulch. Planting Rhizomes of the H4 cultivars may be planted outdoors after the last frost has well passed. They should be planted about 10cm deep such that their eyes just ‘peek’ out of the soil’s surface. Space them about 40cm apart. Rhizomes of any and all hardiness ratings may also be planted in containers. Plant Care In most regions of the United Kingdom, sites with dappled sunlight will prove best through full sun or morning sun will also do nicely. A sheltered location facing south through west is preferable. Soil Requirements Soil should be of a rich and fertile type incorporating organic content, such as well-rotted manure or humus, in a loam that contains clay, silt, and sand. If your soil is lacking in clay or manure then amend it with vermiculite for water retention. Watering & Feeding Arum Lilies, especially during the growing season, should be watered well; ensure that the soil is consistently moist. Just before the start of flowering season, Arum Lily may be fertilised with a slow-release organic fertiliser with a balance of approximately 5-10-10. Otherwise fertilise it with a ‘regular release’ fertiliser, applied in moderation, every two to three weeks. Overwintering As mentioned above, the semi-hardy varieties’ rhizomes may be kept outdoors if they are protected by leaf mulch or a layer of fleece. Arum Lilies growing in pots may be brought indoors (or kept in a greenhouse) before winter. They can grace a room in your home in a spot where they get a few hours of sunlight or several hours of indirect light. If outdoor plants have not dropped their leaves in winter, cover them with a lightweight horticultural fleece. Pruning Arum Lilies do not need to be pruned. You may trim overgrown plants if they look unkempt. Any leaves that winter frost has blackened should be cut off. Common Problems Arum Lilies are quite vigorous plants. On occasion they may succumb to aphids and sometimes to thrips. Thrips are the more troublesome pests; any parts of a plant that show signs of a thrip infestation should be pruned and disposed off. Thrips can be treated with a combination of insecticidal soap, (diluted) Neem Oil and beneficial predators like ladybugs. References 1. Report: Zantedeschia aethiopica. (n.d.). ITIS. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.itis.gov/servlet/SingleRpt/SingleRpt?search_topic=TSN&search_value=42555#null 2. Zantedeschia aethiopica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:89403-1
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Grow Radish For An Easy Harvest: 'I Always Recommend Them To First-Time Growers'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Radishes Harvesting Common Problems References A crispy, mildly zesty component of summer salads in Europe, and a richly-flavoured culinary ingredient in spicy cooked dishes in East Asia, the Garden Radish is a wonderfully versatile root vegetable, thanks to its very varied cultivars. Apart from being a popular veggie, the Garden Radish is much appreciated by gardeners of all stripes – growing it is quite literally child’s play! “I always recommend radishes to first-time growers,” shares Garden Writer Kathy Slack. “Except in the hottest summers when they can bolt, they are the easiest, quickest and most joyful of veg to grow. “They’re very easy and quick to offer results; just sow, water and wait and in 6 weeks you’ll have a clutch of ruby jewels.” The radish is one of the few truly global vegetables, for it is consumed the world over. Overview Botanical Name Raphanus sativus Common Name(s) Radish Plant Type Annual Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Lobed leaves with basal rosette Flowers Small four-petalled white flowers When To Sow / Plant Out February, March, April, May, June, July, August Harvesting Months January, February, June, July, August, September, October, November, December A root vegetable like the potato, it belongs to the Brassica Family or Mustard Family which accounts for its piquant taste.1 This root’s amazing variety also adds to its versatility: a few cultivars are mild, even sweetish; at the other extreme, a few are pungent. Many cultivars are flavourful with a pleasingly sharp taste. These various radish cultivars’ origins are debated. They are widely thought to be cultivated from what used to be a single sub-species: Raphanus raphanistrum subsp. sativus. While this would mean the commonly-cultivated, edible radish was technically a sub-species of R. raphanistrum, the Wild Radish, it is now usually identified by its synonym R. sativus; this elevates the plant to the level of a species on its own. It has been so altered by millennia of human cultivation that, disconnected from any confirmed wild ancestor, it is technically a cultigen, defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as “a plant species or variety known only in cultivation, especially one with no known wild ancestor”.2 The thick, fleshy taproot of the plant is the vegetable we know and love (or not!) as the radish. Most frequently light red on the surface and white inside, varieties can be white, orangeish, beige, brown, purple, and even black. However, the flesh is almost always white. Habitat & Growing Conditions R. sativus or the Garden Radish has escaped from cultivation in some regions of the United States where it is found, albeit infrequently, in disturbed soils, close to vegetable gardens, near rubbish dumps, and alongside highways. It takes root in uncultivated but fertile and moist ground in areas with higher-than-average rainfall and with full sun. In the wild it puts up four-petalled purplish-white flowers that attract bees and other pollinators. It spreads, though very gradually, by seed. How To Grow Radishes Sowing The sowing and harvesting season are very long, and sowing and harvesting seasons also overlap; thus, radishes can be sown, grown, and/or harvested literally year-round. Sowing season runs from February (under protection) or March through September and harvesting season from May through the beginning of January. As such, radishes can be both sown and harvested from May through August. What’s more, most summer radish varieties are ready for harvest about four weeks from sowing. “To sow summer radishes, I draw a drill about 1cm deep with a draw hoe or cane and label it,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “I find that by sowing radishes fairly thinly in this drill, I can harvest them at intervals along the line as they gradually develop. “This thins them and at first, yields leaves, then baby roots, before finishing with the last, well-developed radishes no more than six weeks after sowing.” Winter radishes take much longer to mature, typically about eight weeks – though some winter varieties may take ten to twelve weeks. The ‘winter’ part of their name refers to their harvest time. As a rough guide, sow summer radishes from March through early August, and winter radishes from mid-July to September. Check the instructions on each seed packet for optimal sowing time. The trick to enjoying a continuous months-long harvest is to sow seeds in small quantities on a regular schedule during the sowing season. This is known as succession sowing. Soil Requirements Most types of soil will do but a balanced mix of clay, sand, and chalk amended with well-rotted manure or organic compost is a very good type of soil for this root vegetable. The subsoil and underlying ground must be free of stones and rocks. It is a good idea to till the bed to prep and loosen the soil – it must drain very well and not be prone to waterlogging. ‘French Breakfast’ Soil pH ideally should be in the slightly acidic to neutral range, that is 6.1-7.3, but here too radishes give you a fair amount of leeway. Sunlight Summer radishes should get morning sun and indirect sunlight or shade in the afternoon, especially in the sunnier parts of the country. Winter radishes may be grown in full sun locations. Container Growing Besides outdoor beds, summer radishes and the not-so-big winter radishes may even be grown in planters or large containers. Some summer radishes can even be grown in grow-bags. Watering Water well and regularly, say twice or thrice a week, such that the subsoil stays moist. Keeping the soil moist is of special importance when growing summer radishes in full sun. Soil moisture is also a factor when growing winter radishes. If the soil dries out and remains dry for some days, the radishes’ growth will be stunted and they may well end up bland and tasteless, lacking their distinctive rich, flavourful appeal. Irregular moisture levels may cause root splitting or bolting. Harvesting When harvesting summer radishes, the general guideline is that it is better a little too early than a little too late. If you harvest summer radishes a little too early you lose nothing except a bit of size. Pick them a little too late, and the vegetable can quickly become stringy or woody, depending on the variety, with the taste becoming flat, bitter, or unpleasantly pungent. ‘Chinese Radish’ To use size as a general guideline, it is at about 2-3cm in width that summer radishes are young and are best harvested. While summer radishes must be harvested on time, winter radishes allow more flexibility though do not leave them in the ground too long either. Pick winter radishes by eyeballing the width – when a given vegetable looks like it is more or less the correct width for that variety, it can be pulled up. Harvest them early for slicing raw into salads, and late for making pickles, gazpachos, stewing, or for culinary use. Keep in mind that not all types of winter radishes can be enjoyed raw. If the atmospheric temperature is predicted to stay at -5°C or less, you should pull up any remaining winter radishes otherwise they could sustain frost damage. This should not be a worry virtually anywhere in the UK except parts of Scotland. To pick a (small) summer radish, grasp the leaves at the top, wiggle the radish loose, and gently pull it up. It may not work out quite that way with (larger) winter radishes – the elongated or cylindrical types are much longer and much heavier. You can end up with only foliage or a split or broken radish in your hand! If you do not feel the radish getting loose and coming up through the soil, lightly dig around it and remove and loosen the soil until the radish is ‘unstuck’ enough to pull up. A hand fork is ideal for this. Summer radishes should be enjoyed soon after they are harvested, when they are fresh and succulent. Winter radishes may be stored as they will keep well in the fridge’s crisper or even in a bin in a cool basement. The leaves of winter radishes are not only edible, they have their own taste merits. They do not keep well and should be consumed fresh, within 24 hours of picking. Common Problems The flea beetle is perhaps the most common pest to attack radishes. Flea beetles chew up the leaves, especially of young plants, weakening and stunting the growing root vegetable. They often leave round holes in the middle of leaves. Organic solutions may be used to kill these pests and the plants can be protected with narrow-gauge wire netting. Brassica downy mildew is a disease that radishes are prone to – it is a serious disease that destroys the root vegetable, especially at the seedling stage in spring. It is identified by an unsightly white growth covering the foliage, and yellowing of the foliage. Promptly remove and destroy all affected plants – retail controls to treat downy mildews are not available. Slugs and snails eat radish seedlings, but these common garden nuisances are more easily dealt with. References 1. Raphanus raphanistrum subsp. sativus. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144096278 2. Cultigen. (n.d.). Academic Dictionaries and Encyclopedias. Retrieved July 31, 2023, from https://en-academic.com/dic.nsf/enwiki/2764426
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How To Grow Leeks With Elizabeth Waddington - A Reliable, Low-Maintenance Crop
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Leeks Leek Plant Care References Leeks are a common and popular winter vegetable, so you might like to learn how to grow them in your garden. They are not always the easiest vegetable to grow, and take a lot of time to mature to harvest – but in spite of the investment they require in terms of time, space and effort, they can still be an excellent choice for home growers. Overview Botanical Name Allium porrum / Allium ampeloprasum Common Name(s) Leeks Plant Type Annual Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Spiky leaves, above-ground Flowers Spherical, elegant blooms – commonly white or purple Harvesting Months January, February, August, September, October, November, December Leeks are a common garden vegetable which is a member of the Allium family. Leeks are, of course, a vegetable with a pleasant, mild, onion-like taste. Most commonly, the white and pale green portions are eaten. But it is important to remember that the darker green leaves at the top are edible too, and these should also be consumed to avoid waste.1 Though tough, they can be good to sauté or add to a stock. Aside from the flavour, another good thing about leeks is that they are a vegetable that is harvested in the autumn or winter, when there are fewer fresh vegetables around. ” I love growing leeks, growing different varieties for harvesting between late autumn and early spring,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “My favourite is the heritage cultivar ‘Giant Musselburgh’, which tastes great and stands even in mild winters without bolting. “Fantastic in winter soups and far tastier when home-grown. this variety is available in supermarkets.” This means growing leeks can help you in your efforts to eat food grown in your garden all year round. Leeks are not only useful for their edible yield – leeks can also be very useful, like other alliums, as companion plants in your garden. Their strong smell is said to help in repelling or confusing a range of common garden pests – though it must be said that some recent studies have proved inconclusive.2 Common Varieties Some good leek varieties for the UK include: ‘Autumn Giant Porvite’ ‘Blauwgroene Winter’ ‘Bleu de Solaise’ ‘Cairngorm’ ‘Krypton’ ‘Mézières’ ‘Monstrueux de Carentan’ ‘Oarsman’ ‘Porbella’ ‘Stamford’ However, as well as considering common F1 or heritage leek varieties are commonly grown in an annual vegetable plot, you could also consider growing perennial leeks, like Babington’s Leek (Allium ampeloprasum var. babingtonii). Babington’s Leek This is a perennial leek which is found in the wild in the British Isles. It is a relative of the garden leek which is believed to have predated the introduction of the garden leek. Typically, bulbs are planted in spring and then left for the first year – the plant is then harvested for its above-ground growth each subsequent year. The bulb in the ground is left intact and the plant will regrow from the bulb. Plants left unharvested will flower, produce bulbils, and drop these to create new plants; clumps of these can form in the right conditions. How To Grow Leeks Leeks are usually grown in the ground in a garden, but they can also do well in deep raised beds or large, deep containers. Both typical garden leeks and perennial leeks will do best in full sun but can also be grown in partial shade. The ground into which garden leeks are planted should be fertile, and rich in organic matter, while the soil should be moist but relatively free-draining. Crop Rotation You should also consider, when planning your companion planting schemes, that crop rotation is still the best idea. Try to include alliums like leeks within a four-year crop rotation plan. Perennial leeks work very well as companions for strawberries, and other perennial vegetables – again for their strong scent which can confuse or repel a range of pests. Fruit trees like apple trees will also benefit from having perennial leeks and other perennial alliums planted in their guilds, since the perennial alliums help in repelling pests and may also help prevent apple scab and other fungal issues. Sowing Leeks Leeks are a vegetable that takes a long time to mature. If you want to enjoy eating leeks from your garden in winter, then you need to sow the seeds in late winter or early spring. Leeks are usually sown in the UK between February (indoors) and April. See our sowing guide for more information. Leek Plant Care Caring for leeks is relatively easy and straightforward. Simply water during dry periods, and add more mulch over time, or earth up, to encourage the stems to form longer white sections. Make sure that the mulch remains in place over the summer, and remove any weeds which appear between the plants, since leeks will not be very tolerant of any competition. There are however certain problems commonly encountered by those growing leeks in their gardens. Leek Rust One common issue is leek rust, a fungal infection. Making sure that the leeks are not overcrowded and avoid watering from above to reduce the chances that fungal problems like this will take hold. A small rust attack will not kill your leeks, but a more serious attack could reduce your yield. This disease is difficult to eradicate from the soil once it arrives, so practice crop rotation and avoid growing any members of the allium family in the same bed for the next three years. Onion White Rot Crop rotation and good garden hygiene is also crucial in areas where onion white rot is a problem. This is another fungal infection which can attack leeks. Take care not to spread soil or plant material from areas that have this soil-borne fungus to other parts of your garden or elsewhere. References 1. Hunt, T. (2019a, May 11). Go green: don’t let the tastiest part of a leek go to waste. The Guardian. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/food/2019/may/11/leek-tops-soup-recipe-food-waste-not-tom-hunt 2. Baudry, X., Doury, G., Couty, A., Fourdrain, Y., Van Havermaet, R., Lateur, M., & Ameline, A. (2021). Antagonist effects of the leek Allium porrum as a companion plant on aphid host plant colonization. Scientific Reports, 11(1). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-83580-8
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Horticulturists Love To Grow Comfrey - It's A Garden 'Cult Classic' With Many Uses
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Comfrey Care & Growing Tips Background & Origins References Plain and humble, yet bursting with goodness and vitality – that’s comfrey in a nutshell. Though the small flowers possess their own rustic charm, this plant’s virtues are wholly practical. It is renowned for improving soil health, and its nutrient-rich foliage provides raw material for high-quality compost and fertiliser.1 Overview Botanical Name Symphytum officinale Common Name(s) Comfrey, Boneset, Knit bone Plant Type Perennial / Herb Native Area Europe, Asia, North America Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deiciduous Flowers Generally purple, pink, blue or cream-coloured When To Sow March, April, May, September, October, November Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune June, August, September Comfrey, native to the UK and Europe, is one of the more humble and unsung members of the Plant Kingdom.2 “It is not entirely clear whether it’s native to the UK or not, but comfrey is still a brilliant plant for bees and other pollinators,” shares Dave Goulson, an expert on all things bees. Not by any stretch a glamour plant that you will find in a stylish flower garden, comfrey is the floral equivalent of a cult classic movie. Thus – though it is indeed relatively unsung and even humble – this deciduous perennial has its own limited but very devoted following among wise, ‘back to nature’ gardeners. For the most part, comfrey’s cult status is not because of its ornamental oomph but because of its lengthy list of practical uses.3 Apart from foliage and the flowers, comfrey is one of those rare plants whose underground parts merit a few words. It has rhizomatous fleshy roots, the upper parts of which resemble tuberous vegetables or root vegetables. Among these is a long taproot that penetrates very deeply so as to ‘tap’ potassium, calcium and other mineral elements from deep down, bringing these up to the foliage (which is the reason that comfrey leaves are rich in minerals and chemical compounds).4 In addition, the mature plant’s root system is well-formed and extensive. Here are some pictures of comfrey growing in my garden: You can see the plant is in flower during the early summer months, in late June. Habitat & Growing Conditions Symphytum species are found throughout Eurasia, from the United Kingdom and Spain east up to West Siberia in the north and Iran to the south.5 Moist ground, especially along riverbanks and waterways, is this genus’s preferred habitat. It is also found in the grasslands and steppes of the Caucasus. A soil pH of slightly acidic to neutral, i.e. 6.1-7.3, is considered to be ideal for Symphytums though this tough plant will do well in any soil pH from about 5.1-8.4, which is a very wide range. A fully hardy plant, almost all species are hardy down to H7. How To Grow Comfrey Ordinary this plant might be but some or another variety will be found at your neighbourhood nursery. The larger garden centres stock most of the commonly grown varieties. Numerous comfrey varieties are available online. In any event, if a friend or relative has comfrey, you don’t need to buy it. Simply get a 15cm root cutting and you’ll have a new comfrey plant! Planting Comfrey Comfrey self-selects itself for cottage gardens, wildflower gardens, and kitchen gardens by virtue of its unglamourous but appealing appearance, combined with its beneficial value. Estate gardens and courtyard gardens? Probably not! While the sterile and non-spreading varieties can be grown in open ground, it may be wise to grow the self-seeding and rapidly-spreading species in large containers. Care & Growing Tips You really don’t need to ‘grow’ comfrey – this vigorous plant will grow by itself. Indeed, occasionally some species become invasive and hard to eradicate. Soil Requirements A rich, fertile loam, which may be a balanced mix of sand, chalk, clay and organic manure, is ideal for comfrey. Good drainage is preferable but comfrey is one of those plants that can live with poorly-drained soils. They prefer consistently moist – though not waterlogged – soil. The species prefer part shade or dappled sunlight whereas some cultivars do best in full sun. Pruning Avoid pruning/harvesting the leaves for the first year so that the plant’s root system can develop and get established. You can harvest the foliage after the plant has reached half its maximum height. Do so by grasping a handful of leaves and cutting them 8-10cm off the ground using a sharp knife or largeish pruning shears. If you like comfrey flowers, cut back the stems after flowering is done and you may get a rebloom. Common Problems Comfrey is a remarkably disease-free plant. Slugs and snails may attack it and occasionally it can succumb to powdery mildew but that’s about it in the UK. Background & Origins Symphytum officinale or common comfrey has become naturalised in the plains states of the United Kingdom and in a few regions of South America. Plants of this species were likely carried by the earliest British, Spanish, and other European migrants to the New World. Symphytum genus comfreys are not to be confused with wild comfrey. ‘Wild comfrey’ is, in fact, the common name of Cynoglossum virginianum, a plant that is native to the United States.6 It is related to Symphytum comfreys as it too is a member of the Borage Family. References 1. Howard, M. M., Plotkin, A., McClure, A., Klepac-Ceraj, V., Griffith, A. B., Brabander, D. J., & Jones, K. L. (2018). Comfrey Mulch Enriches Soil, But Does Not Improve an Indicator Crop within One Season. International Journal of Plant and Soil Science, 22(2), 1–9. https://doi.org/10.9734/ijpss/2018/40403 2. Common comfrey. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/wildflowers/common-comfrey 3. Comfrey: Its History, Uses & Benefits. (n.d.). Permaculture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.permaculture.co.uk/articles/comfrey-its-history-uses-benefits/ 4. Stallings, B. (2014, March 17). Does Comfrey Really Improve Soil? The Permaculture Research Institute. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.permaculturenews.org/2014/03/18/comfrey-really-improve-soil/ 5. Symphytum officinale. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:120815-1 6. Cynoglossum virginianum. (n.d.). The University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=cyvi
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All Gooseberry Bushes Require Proper Maintenance - Learn How In This Guide
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Gooseberries Soil Requirements Sunlight Transplanting Watering & Mulching Pruning Common Problems References Gooseberries are very flavourful and different varieties impart unique taste sensations. Some are lusciously sweet fresh off the bush; others are deliciously tangy and tart with savouries. Arguably the most versatile of all berries, perhaps the Gooseberry can one day regain its throne! One to two centuries ago, Gooseberries used to be among the choicest fruits enjoyed in Great Britain, enjoying the height of their popularity in the mid-1800s.1 The fruit suffered a decline in popularity from the early 1900s and fell out of favour after about 1920, as American gooseberry mildew became an increasing problem. In our time, gooseberries have been supplanted by more exotic fruits like passionfruit and kiwis in the garden. Perhaps this is partly because originally Gooseberry bushes were very thorny – and the species and heirloom cultivars still are – and all Gooseberry bushes require proper maintenance. Maybe this fruit’s flavour was also originally too tart and too tangy for modern palates. If this was so, the ‘problem’ has been circumvented by a number of newer cultivars that are honey-sweet. In any event, the fading away of the Gooseberry has been somewhat exaggerated if the RHS Fruit and Vegetable Show 2021 was anything to go by. Gooseberries are among the limited number of fruits and vegetables that have six discrete competition classes! Perhaps Gooseberries are making a comeback and part of the reason is that newer cultivars eliminate some of the difficulty with growing gooseberries in the backyard. Overview Botanical Name Ribes uva-crispa Common Name(s) Gooseberry Plant Type Fruit / Shrub Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H6-7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Inconspicuous When To Plant January, February, March, April, May, September, October, November, December Harvesting Months June, July, August When To Prune January, February, March, November, December Be the variety newer or older, another positive attribute is that gooseberry bushes are self-fertile so you are good to go with a single bush, though you will increase your yield if you have three or four bushes. This is not one of those bushes that you can plant and forget about; to the contrary, it requires care, particularly in pruning. Mark that store-bought gooseberries of any variety cannot be compared to home-grown ones because this is a fruit that doesn’t transport well or ‘keep’ well when it is ripe as it tends to burst. Therefore, stores often stock and sell underripe gooseberries which will not ripen into sweet fruit after they have been plucked. This fact is surely the best reason to grow a Gooseberry bush (or a few) in your back garden. Habitat & Growing Conditions Gooseberry species grow wild throughout Eurasia where they are found in many kinds of soil and environmental conditions.2 In the United Kingdom they are often seen in woodlands and scrublands, and also along country byways. Again, where the United Kingdom is concerned, they are found more frequently on moist ground, either in full sun or a sun-shade mix. Other species, native to South Asia and North America, grow in even dryish areas.3 Different species grow in climate conditions ranging from sunny and semi-tropical through temperate to frigid. How To Grow Gooseberries You can grow a gooseberry plant from seed but while species will grow true, cultivars will likely not. Also, growing gooseberry shrubs from seeds is a lengthy process. Bare-root plants are most widely available during winter months; potted plants are another form in which Gooseberry plants can be bought. Get them from an established merchant with a good reputation because Gooseberry shrubs are among those that can harbour pests or diseases. The major cultivars are fully hardy at H6. Soil Requirements Gooseberry cultivars should be planted in soil with good drainage. The soil should contain peat or other organic content such as well-rotted manure or humus, especially if soil is a heavier clay or has a very free-draining sandy texture. The ideal soil pH is Slightly Acidic, 6.1 to 6.5, but this can safely be stretched to 5.6 to 7.3 – Moderately Acidic to Neutral. Sunlight In almost the whole of the United Kingdom the best site is in full sun but part shade will do. Bear in mind that the more sun the bush gets, the sweeter the berries. Therefore, if you are growing a sweet dessert variety it really should be sited in full sun; on the other hand, if you are growing a tart culinary variety then site it in part shade. The best location is one that is sheltered but has good airflow but this combination may not be at all easily sorted-out; if not, don’t sweat it. If need be, you can support your bush with a trellis or bamboo canes. Transplanting You can (trans)plant bare-root or potted plants any time during winter or early spring. The transplanting hole should not only accommodate the entire root ball, it should be considerably wider than the root ball so that the roots can be spread out. Before transplanting a potted plant, water it well. Dampen the roots of a bare-root plant before putting it in the ground, then water well after transplanting. Space Gooseberry bushes approximately 1.5 metres apart. Watering & Mulching Gooseberry bushes thrive on lots of water. Water from soil level only. Absolutely do not water them on the crown or over the foliage so as not to give any opening to diseases. The plant should get water about twice a week during the growing season if the weather is dry. Keep the soil moist. As fruit starts to form and develop, gradually and proportionally increase the amount of water and perhaps the frequency of watering; however, be careful not to overwater. A soil moisture meter would be very useful during Gooseberry bushes’ fruit-forming period, as the surface of the soil can have a very different moisture level compared to further down. Mulching a Gooseberry bush in general is a good idea and in hot and dry climates it is essential to do this when the soil is still damp, to seal moisture in. Pruning “Pruning gooseberries is a satisfying task during winter or early spring,” says RHS Master of Horticulture Peter Lickorish, “providing you have thick gloves to prevent thorns from becoming a nuisance. “Airflow is the aim – so cut out branches which rub on another or crowd the centre. “It is usually best to leave an open goblet-shaped framework of branches. “Any narrow side-shoots from these can be cut back to a few buds, which lets light reach the fruits when they form…and helps stop you getting scratched!” Common Problems First, bear in mind that Gooseberry cultivars manifest rather pronounced differences as to the pests and diseases that they resist well and those that they succumb to. Problems include powdery mildew and leaf spot. The former is more common but is not very hard to resolve and can be remedied by pruning for airflow or selecting resistant cultivars. The latter, a fungal disease, is not so common but very difficult to bring under control. You can help prevent both of these by reducing plant stress – so keep the soil well watered. Insect Infestations Gooseberry bushes can be attacked by aphids, sawfly, and capsid bug. Aphids often cluster on the tips of stems, so the very tips of long stems can be cut off. Sawflies can strip leaves to shreds, though many garden birds will eat their larvae. You cannot use chemical pesticides on a fruit-bearing bush so you will need to choose organic formulations and natural solutions. Among the former are Organic Savona soap, Neudorff Bug Free, and Vitax Plant Guard. You could prepare a solution of generic pyrethrin and neem oil – also consider beneficial insects like ladybugs. You can minimise the chances that the bush will succumb to pests and diseases by siting it optimally, pruning it correctly, and watering it at soil level. Birds There is one other creature in your garden which loves gooseberries: birds. You can try to draw them away by setting up a bird feeder with different types of grain and mealworms that birds may be more attracted to. As a last resort, protect your bushes with bird netting. References 1. Fascinating facts: gooseberries (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/fascinating-facts-gooseberries 2. Fascinating facts: gooseberries. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/fascinating-facts-gooseberries 3. Gooseberry. (2023, March). Agricultural Marketing Resource Center. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.agmrc.org/commodities-products/fruits/gooseberry
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