Growing
Hosta Growers And Society Members Share Their Secrets Learned Over Many Years
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Choosing Types How To Grow Hostas Hosta Plant Care Common Problems References Super-hardy hostas are a foliage favourite, especially for shady spots. These deciduous perennials are valued for their fascinating foliage, as their leaves may be wavy, bowl-shaped, puckered or ridged. Though their colours include a proper rich ‘leafy green’, they also include creams and yellows, and greyish-bluish green. Many are edged or bordered while others undergo colour changes as the season progresses. If you go for fascinating foliage, have a shady garden, also have heavy soil, and like low-care perennials, hostas are made for you. In this guide, we’ve collaborated with SEVEN hosta specialists, including: John Plant – Owner of specialist nursery Rewela Hostas. Ollie Walker – Nursery Manager at Sienna Hostas. Robert Barlow – Owner of plant nursery North Staffordshire Hostas. Melanie Collins – Partner at Mickfield Hostas. Barry Ankney – Membership Secretary for the American Hosta Society. David Teager – President of the Delaware Valley Hosta Society. Sue Proctor – Owner of specialist nursery Sue Proctor Plants. “Hostas are incredibly diverse in size, leaf shape, colouration, and texture,” says Barry. “Some Hostas grow in mounded shapes, while others are upright vase-shaped plants. Hostas range in size from 5-125cm high. “Leaf shapes vary from slender lance-shaped leaves to those that are more rounded. They can be green, yellow, blue, or a combination of those colours and may have variegated edges or display variegation at their centre.” Overview Botanical Name Hosta Common Name(s) Plantain Lily Plant Type Perennial Native Area China, Japan, North & South Korea Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Mainly bell-shaped When To Plant March-May and September-November When To Prune December In their native Japan and the Far East, these plants are called Giboshi, but are more commonly known as the Plantain Lily.1 They do share one attribute, though: almost all popular varieties are clump-forming and, therefore, gradually keep spreading. The foliage interest of these plants is amazingly diverse and most gardeners consider the flowers a side attraction or a bonus. “We love growing hostas because they provide colour in the garden all season, from late Spring until the Autumn when they die down, ready to reappear the following year,” says Sue. For several weeks in summer, flowers, usually bell-shaped, are borne in clusters, usually in shades of purple and white. Hostas are vigorous, long-lived plants, explains John Plant, the owner of Rewela hostas, with over 15 years of experience: “There are very few that offer the range of colour, and size of leaves than Hostas. They offer you at least 6 months of interest in the garden each year. “They then go to sleep, but always come up again next year without further cost or care.” Once they’re all set in favourable locations, they will need minimal maintenance while making a rich return of many years of top-notch decorative foliage. Choosing Types “I personally prefer plain-leaved cultivars with interesting habits, like Cutting Edge and Niagara Falls,” says Melanie. “The leaves droop downwards on Niagara Falls and have a piecrust rippled margin. “I love natural-looking garden spaces rather than too much colour, so I love hostas that add to that type of environment rather than clash. “Although I can admire variegated hostas, I am less keen on the brightly variegated cultivars as they can look rather false in a natural setting and look much better as specimens in containers.” Despite Melanie’s preference for plain cultivars, we have put together some of our favourite varieties of hostas which do include brighter cultivars too. How To Grow Hostas Where To Plant “Contrary to popular belief, hostas like more light and less water than most people think,” says Ollie Walker, the nursery manager at Sienna Hostas. “A very dark, wet spot in the garden is actually as bad as a dry and sunny spot. Ideally dappled shade or morning/afternoon sun in moist, free-draining soil is perfect.” Hostas are classic shade garden plants and can be planted in beds or used for garden borders. However, it’s good to keep in mind that they boast an enormous range in height. The smaller varieties are perfect for front borders while the taller ones are just as perfect for the rear and as backdrops. The intermediate height varieties are great for interspersing between flowering plants in a bed or placing in a dedicated shrubbery corner. Miniature varieties make for delightful edging and are just brilliant for rockeries. All hostas plants are very amenable to being planted in pots and containers. When To Plant Though Hostas are tough plants and can be planted at any time of the year, I’d recommend planting them in spring or autumn. How To Plant Hostas are normally bought as potted plants or acquired as bare-root divisions from a clump, and it is in one of these forms that you would be planting a hosta. The planting hole should be about as deep as the rootball but twice its width. Ensure that the plant is not root-bound; if it is, spread out the roots. Place the plant in the hole and backfill it promptly, ensuring that the soil line is the same as it was in the pot. Pat down the soil all around and water well. Hosta Plant Care Hostas are notorious for being easy to grow. Once they are planted in the right spot they will thrive for years without any particular care. Precise instructions on how to grow these plants are given underneath. Light In general, partial shade is very suitable for hostas and they even do quite well in full shade. That said, the ideal type of light for these plants is dappled or filtered sunlight for a few hours a day, as David explains: “While some think of them as shade-loving, they are merely shade tolerant and perform best with some sun, the amount strongly dependent upon their need for water and protection from the hottest sun.” Sun-shade preferences vary by cultivar. “Hostas are shade-tolerant plants, but they still require some sunlight, the amount of sunlight largely depends on their colour, which generally relates to the number of chloroplasts in the plant,” explains Barry. “Blue hostas appear blue because of a wax coating on the leaf. If this wax coating is rubbed off, or burned off by the sun, the leaf looks green. “When caring for hostas with blue colouration, it is important to know that too much direct sunlight will burn away the waxy coating on the leaf that makes the leaf appear blue. “It is best to grow blue hostas in a location where they get some early morning sun followed by a day in the shade.” As a rule, the more yellow the foliage, the more sunlight the plant should get and the more bluish the foliage, the less sun it should get. Soil Hostas generally need a heavyish, rich soil says Robert Barlow, a hosta enthusiast from North Staffordshire Hostas. “Hostas like moisture-retentive soils that are slightly acidic. They do not, however, like to be submerged in water for any length of time.” A mixed loam of sand, chalk and clay tilled to about 15cm deep and amended generously with organic compost or well-rotted organic manure will suit them perfectly. These plants prefer moist soil. If the soil has insufficient clay then some vermiculite should be added to the soil or a layer of organic mulch may be laid to increase moisture retention. Slightly acidic to neutral soil pH works best for these plants. Watering “The single most important thing about successfully growing Hostas is knowing that they love water,” says Barry. “Hostas require at least 2.5cm of water per week to thrive. Hostas will survive with less water, but if you want your plants to thrive, give them plenty of it.” Although their water needs may partially be met by rainfall, watering will usually be required. “Don’t give them a sprinkle of water daily, water once a week during the season and water well,” suggests Melanie. Temperature & Humidity Hostas do not have any particular temperature or humidity requirements, and any given variety should be perfectly comfortable with the temperature and humidity throughout the UK. “Hostas are excellent garden plants that can grow in many garden conditions in climates with winter cold,” says David Teager. “Not merely single-season perennials, they are most beautiful from the time they emerge until the first killing frost.” “Although hardy in the UK climate, hosta leaves emerging in spring may get damaged by frost,” adds Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Protect by adding a layer or two of fleece if frost is forecast.” Fertilising As long as hostas are rooted in rich, fertile soil, they do not need fertilising. A mulch of organic compost about once a year will be quite sufficient. Otherwise, you can use an organic balanced fertiliser, diluted as appropriate, once each spring. “Don’t be tempted to overfeed your hostas,” says Melanie. “It may help produce extra foliage but often this is at the expense of the plant’s characteristics. Seaweed extracts or tomato feed is good a couple of times a year.” Hostas in containers should be fertilised more often to ensure attractive foliage. For these, apply a balanced liquid fertiliser about every four weeks during spring and summer. “I use a nitrogen liquid feed or pelleted chicken manure,” says Robert, from North Staffordshire Hostas. “Feed your hosta plants a maximum of 3-4 times a year from April. Don’t feed your hostas after July.” Common Problems Generally, hostas are pest-resistant and disease-free plants. Occasionally may they succumb to vine weevil, but this only usually affects potted hostas. “Vine weevils can sometimes be a problem,” shares Sue Proctor. “Adult weevils feed on the edges of leaves and the small notches they cut out of leaf edges are unmistakable. “I use vine weevil nematodes in September and April, concentrating on those areas where there are attacks.” A more serious problem that hostas might face is Hosta Virus X (HVX). To escape this, David Teager suggests that you: make sure to buy hostas from reputable dealers (or shared by knowledgeable friends), and closely observe and handle any new acquisitions to catch any disease before it spreads. Unfortunately, hostas are almost sure to be targeted and chomped on by slugs and snails. Not only does this degrade the aesthetic appeal of the plants, slugs and snails sometimes destroy the foliage to such an extent that young, small, or weak plants die. “The most obvious problem, which everyone lights on, is slugs and snails, as there is nothing more infuriating than having your perfect hosta leaves munched on,” says Melanie. How To Stop Slugs Eating Hostas Slugs have nocturnal habits; they chew up plants in the dead of night and remain out of sight during the day. Therefore, it is difficult to directly eliminate these pests. Even if they were diurnal, slugs are so icky that you may not want to pick them or squash them! “Barriers and beer traps both work well for trapping slugs and snails, but if your garden is overrun, you first need to reduce numbers by going out after dark with a torch to find, catch and dispose of the critters,” says Sue. “A squirt of household ammonia diluted 1:10 with water will kill slugs almost instantly and is more humane than using a pinch of salt.” Another tried-and-trusted method is to put copper strips or copper tape around the plants. A slug’s own slime reacts with copper to give a mild shock to the pest. This method will only protect your plants but will not kill the slugs. Another method is to use a garlic wash, which is a method recommended by the growers from both Rewela Hostas and Sienna Hostas. “A garlic wash is really easy to make,” says Ollie. “Boil 2 full bulbs of garlic in 2L of water until soft, then sieve out the bits to reveal your concentrate. “Dilute 2 tablespoons of this, then water and spray over the top of your plants once a week.” “My hostas used to get eaten to bits until I was introduced to a garlic wash,” shares Gardener Sally Flatman. “I used that religiously last year and now my hostas are completely changed plants!” Alternatively, you could place purpose-built types of nooks or crannies that slugs like to get in or under close to your chewed-up hostas. You can do so using flat rocks, small slabs, or wooden boards. Get out in the early part of the morning to look under them for the pests, and when seen you can get rid of them easily. References 1. Hosta Collecting in Japan. (n.d.). Hosta Library. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.hostalibrary.org/articles/Japan.htm
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Here Are 24 Types Of Heuchera With Multiple RHS AGM Award Winners To Try
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. villosa 2) H. micrantha 3) H. americana 4) H. brevistaminea 5) H. villosa ‘Palace Purple’ 6) H. micrantha ‘Palace Purple’ 7) H. ‘Bella Notte’ 8) H. ‘Autumn Leaves’ 9) H. ‘Lipstick’ 10) H. ‘Raspberry Regal’ 11) H. ‘Caramel’ 12) H. ‘Electric Lime’ 13) H. ‘Circus’ 14) H. ‘Paris’ 15) H. ‘Sweet Tart’ 16) H. Frilly ‘Alchefril’ Other Options To Consider References These plants arrived in Great Britain in 1882.1 For many decades they were appreciated only by – shall we say – plant connoisseurs, but in the past two decades Heuchera has really taken off, receiving the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit for 25 varieties.2 And about time, for this lovely genus has a lot going for it, as one may readily infer from my selection of the twenty-four types underneath: 1) H. villosa One of the parent species of many popular cultivars. It is one of those species that makes its home on woody, rocky slopes around the Appalachians in North America. Its common name ‘Hairy Alum Root’ refers to its salient characteristic: hairy stalks and hairy leaves. In fact, ‘villosa’ is Latin for ‘hairy’ or ‘furry’. The pink-white florets it bears arrive very late in summer. 2) H. micrantha Is another parent species of various varieties, and it too is native to wooden rocky slopes along North America’s Western Seaboard. It too has hairy leaves, less so than H. villosa, and has small leaves (hence ‘micrantha’). It has a couple of points of interest; first, the red-purple tone of the foliage, and second, the very tall nearly one-metre high peduncles which bear pink-white florets. 3) H. americana H. americana ‘Green Spice’ The species that could be called ‘Basic’, for it has no very unusual characteristics. Though immature leaves have a purple tinge, they soon become a bright ‘leafy’ green. The long panicles bear florets of an indeterminate whitish colour. This nondescript species is another woody rocky slope denizen except that it prefers the Central United States. 4) H. brevistaminea The last species we outline for a couple of good reasons. It is rare, and is threatened and endangered outside a very small location in Southern California. This is a pity because it is a tough species that can thrive in inhospitable regions yet has lustrous bright green foliage and produces panicles of candy pink flowers. 5) H. villosa ‘Palace Purple’ One of the most popular and widely-available Heuchera varieties, and was shortlisted for the RHS plant of the centenary for the decade 1983 to 1992.3 Its deeply-lobed leaves are a rich burgundy (the plant is named after the dark burgundy brickwork at Kew Palace in the 1980’s) above which panicles of pinkish florets stand erect in summer. Stalks and peduncles too are of a reddish purple. The plant forms mounds of 20-30cm high and wide. 6) H. micrantha ‘Palace Purple’ Yes, the H. micrantha species also has a ‘Palace Purple’ cultivar and oddly enough it too is an award winner, being the Perennial Plant Association’s Plant of the Year 1991.4 It too forms mounds of 20-30cm and 40 wide. The leaves, however, can differ in colour from olive green to shades of near true purple. It bears off-white panicles from early summer. 7) H. ‘Bella Notte’ Quite similar to the two ‘Palace Purple’ varieties in habit and height; moreover, even its gently scalloped leaves are a dark maroon-purple. However, it outdoes them in the floral department. This variety not only has a long blooming season from late spring clear through to early autumn, the hue of its flowers, from bright pink to cherry red, is markedly more attractive. 8) H. ‘Autumn Leaves’ Not suitably named; it would be more apropos to call it ‘Seasonal Leaves’ – for in spring the attractively-scalloped leaves begin the show with a reddish salmon colour, turn a light grey-brown in summer, and then again change colour to deep shades of red, from vermilion and flame to ruby red. Summer’s creamy-white flowers are truly a sideshow on this largeish shrub that is often 50 x 50 centimetres. This plant has PBR (Plant Breeder’s Rights) protection, meaning it cannot be propagated without the PBR owner’s permission. 9) H. ‘Lipstick’ Suitably named and is also a brilliant red, except that this is a Heuchera variety that has the rare distinction of being named after its flowers! Of a classic Lipstick Red hue, the florets are a little bigger than usual and the plant blooms profusely, and re-blooms. The foliage makes for a wonderfully complementary backdrop in summer as the leaves are bright green with silvery dappling and marbling. It is much broader than high, at 36cm wide by 20 tall. It is a recipient of the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. 10) H. ‘Raspberry Regal’ Doubling up on Heuchera varieties with the rare distinction where the flowers take centre stage, this one also bears bigger-than-average flowers on even longer peduncles that are often just shy of one metre! Though the scalloped backdrop has some silver marbling on a brilliant green canvas, it’s all about the late-spring early-summer masses of deep, rich red blooms with this aptly-named variety. 11) H. ‘Caramel’ Staying with the foodstuffs theme but reverting to foliage as the main attraction, this increasingly popular clump-forming variety has very rounded, shallowly-lobed leaves. Starting off in tones of pale pink to pale orange in spring, the leaves gradually take on colour, warming up to a rich, golden caramel hue. Tiny light pink florets make an appearance in summer. This plant also holds PBR protection. 12) H. ‘Electric Lime’ Staying with both food and foliage, this ‘feature-packed’ variety is quite big, to begin with. It grows to about 50cm high by about 80 wide. The leaves have a lovely palmately-lobed shape – they start off ‘electric’ yellow with red veins, and mature to a lime green hue decorated with thick and deep veining in contrasting deep red. It bears pedicles of especially dense florets in pure white. Adding to its ‘features’, this variety is especially tough. 13) H. ‘Circus’ Displays especially regular shallow-scalloped leaves as if they are produced from a cookie-cutter. Though it has similar lime-green foliage with prominent blackish-red veins, it has its own twist: in the summer, bright pink florets rise above the leaves and last until the end of summer, and come autumn, the leaves change colour, also to purple-pink. So if you’re lucky, at end-summer, start-of-autumn, you may catch colour-matching florets and foliage! This plant also holds PBR protection. 14) H. ‘Paris’ On the small side at about 25cm high and wide, and is a clump-forming variety. Its foliage offers a colour reversal from ‘Circus’ as the veins are prominently and broadly etched in green on a silver ground. It bears relatively large rose pink florets on bronze-toned peduncles over a particularly long blooming season. This disease-resistant variety is a recipient of the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit and also has PBR protection. 15) H. ‘Sweet Tart’ Only 10-12cm tall and with a mounding habit, this variety’s scalloped leaves change colour from a ‘popping’ greenish-yellow through lime-green, to which the cerise to cherry-red florets on tall panicles make a lovely and lively contrast. This variety is a choice pick from the (trademarked) ‘Little Cuties’ range of very compact dwarf cultivars with PBR protection, which are particularly robust. 16) H. Frilly ‘Alchefril’ The latest variety and caused a sensation when introduced in 2021 at the Chelsea Flower Show.5 The colour ranges from caramel and light orange in summer or in the shade, to a deeper orange and even scarlet in the winter or in sun, as in the parent ‘Tangerine Wave’. This sport’s charm is in its ‘frilly’ irregularly scalloped leaves; they are unusual in being tightly frilled. It bears cream-coloured florets. Other Options To Consider There are so many heuchera varieties to choose from that we can’t end this post without giving them a little shoutout. Here are some other beautiful cultivars to consider: 17) H. ‘Blackberry Jam’ 18) H. ‘Can-Can’ 19) H. ‘Plum Pudding’ 20) H. ‘Green Spice’ 21) H. ‘Fire Alarm’ 22) H. ‘Black Beauty’ 23) H. ‘Silver Scrolls’ 24) H. ‘Black Taffeta’ References 1. Batts, G. (n.d.). Heucheras – their cultivation and use. Hardy Plants. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.hardy-plant.org.uk/docs/publications/journal/37b/heuc.pdf 2. AGM Plants. (2021b, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf 3. Heuchera villosa. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved June 13, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/256801/i-heuchera-villosa-i-palace-purple/details 4. Perennial Plant of the Year. (n.d.). Perennial Plant Association. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://perennialplant.org/page/PastPPOY 5. A breakthrough in heucheras – yes really! (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/plants-blogs/plants/november-2020/heuchera-frilly-alchefril
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20 Phlox Varieties With Dainty Flowers: Each Of These Is An RHS AGM Award-Winner
IN THIS GUIDE 1) P. ‘Kelly’s Eye’ 2) P. douglasii ‘Red Admiral’ 3) P. subulata ‘McDaniel’s Cushion’ 4) P. subulata ‘Red Wings’ 5) P. divaricata subsp. laphamii ‘Chattahoochee’ 6) P. paniculata ‘Mother of Pearl’ 7) P. paniculata ‘Monica Lynden-Bell’ 8) P. paniculata ‘Velvet Flame’ 9) P. maculata ‘Natascha’ 10) P. × arendsii ‘Luc’s Lilac’ 11) P. paniculata ‘White Admiral’ 12) P. paniculata ‘Franz Schubert’ 13) P. paniculata Peacock Cherry Red 14) P. paniculata ‘Le Mahdi’ 15) P. maculata ‘Alpha’ 16) P. maculata ‘Omega’ 17) P. glaberrima ‘Bill Baker’ 18) P. paniculata ‘Visions’ 19) P. paniculata ‘David’s Lavender’ 20) P. paniculata ‘The King’ The dainty flowers of this fully hardy perennial are usually in pinks and purples but some varieties produce white and red blooms too. Phlox cultivars descend from the hybridisation of several different species. As a result, they range from a dinky 10cm in height up to 1.25m. This plant’s diversity extends to its habits: they come in mat-forming, clump-forming, bushy, and upright types with dozens of varieties of each habit. Phlox plants also have varieties that are perfect for rockeries, containers, borders, beds, mass plantings – and everything else. What’s more, many varieties are butterfly magnets, just as many are scented and fragrant, and some are both. Boasting so many attractions, it is to be expected that about 90 phlox varieties are recipients of the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. Little wonder, then, that all of my top picks in this list are AGM winners. Here are my favourite 20 of these beautiful deciduous perennials: 1) P. ‘Kelly’s Eye’ COMMON NAME(S): Phlox ‘Kelly’s Eye’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SIZE: Up to 10cm in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing to about 12cm with a similar spread, ‘Kelly’s Eye’ has pointy deep green leaves which are marvellously set off by the small blush-pink flowers with prominent scarlet eyes. This mat-forming evergreen is an early-flowering type, producing blooms from May. 2) P. douglasii ‘Red Admiral’ COMMON NAME(S): Phlox ‘Red Admiral’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread At the upper end of the mat-forming types, ‘Red Admiral’ rises to about 15cm. It has deep green pointed foliage that is evergreen. The 1.5cm flowers are lustrous magenta crimson and are produced in profusion from May into mid-summer. 3) P. subulata ‘McDaniel’s Cushion’ COMMON NAME(S): Moss phlox ‘McDaniel’s cushion’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SIZE: Up to 10cm in height, 0.1-0.5m spread One of the most popular mat-forming varieties, ‘McDaniel’s Cushion’ is only 10cm tall but its flowers are comparatively big at 3cm across and are of a striking, candy pink tone. Its evergreen foliage is of a brilliant deep green hue. 4) P. subulata ‘Red Wings’ COMMON NAME(S): Moss phlox ‘red wings’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SIZE: Up to 10cm in height, 0.1-0.5m spread One of the runaway winners in the mat-forming popularity sweepstakes, ‘Red Wings’ features evergreen foliage of a rich, deep tone and grows to about 12cm. Blooming from May, its flowers are of a bright purplish-pink tone with a vivid carmine eye. 5) P. divaricata subsp. laphamii ‘Chattahoochee’ COMMON NAME(S): Sweet William ‘chattahoochee’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: Up to 10cm in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Rising to about 15cm, ‘Chattahoochee’ has lanceolate foliage and displays purplish stems which are ornamental in their own right. This summer-blooming, mat-forming variety bears gently-scented flowers in clusters; they are of a soothing lilac shade centred with purple eyes. “Phlox ‘Chattahoochee’ is a cultivar of a subspecies of P. divaricata, a woodland plant,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It will grow in partial or full shade and I love growing it under trees, where its flowers will follow on from late spring bulbs from May to June.” 6) P. paniculata ‘Mother of Pearl’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial phlox ‘Mother of Pearl’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Rising to about 75cm and exhibiting deep, dark green lanceolate leaves, ‘Mother of Pearl’ features fragrant flowers of a most unusual pink-tinged chalky white shade. This clump-forming, deciduous perennial produces these flowers in panicles from mid-summer into autumn. 7) P. paniculata ‘Monica Lynden-Bell’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial phlox ‘Monica Lynden-Bell’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A clump-forming, deciduous perennial that reaches up to 80cm, ‘Monica Lynden-Bell’ displays foliage of an appealing hue of rich green. The scented flowers that appear from mid-summer are of even more appealing hues that vary from pink-suffused white to soft baby pink. 8) P. paniculata ‘Velvet Flame’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial phlox ‘velvet flame’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Featuring brilliant green ovate foliage and about 60cm tall, ‘Velvet Flame’ lives up to its name; its flowers, besides being fragrant, exhibit a velvety sheen. Appearing from mid-summer to autumn, they are rich magenta-purple with a large white eye. This is a clump-forming variety. 9) P. maculata ‘Natascha’ COMMON NAME(S): Meadow phlox ‘Natascha’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing to about 90cm with pretty bright green linear leaves, ‘Natascha’ has a relatively short flowering season between June and July. However, it makes up for it by producing copious clump-forming clusters of fragrant bi-coloured blooms with delightful light pink and white radial stripes. 10) P. × arendsii ‘Luc’s Lilac’ COMMON NAME(S): Phlox ‘Luc’s Lilac’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Though of a clump-forming habit, heights of 1m are common for ‘Luc’s Lilac.’ This deciduous perennial retires earlier than usual in autumn but the ovate leaves are of a very striking intense green, while the scented flowers are of a rich mauve-purple tone. 11) P. paniculata ‘White Admiral’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial phlox ‘White Admiral’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 0.5-1cm in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Though technically of a bushy habit, one may mistake the 90cm tall ‘White Admiral’ for an upright variety. It has rich, dark green lanceolate leaves and its dense panicles of very fragrant snow-white flowers, which bloom for about two months, are simply magical. 12) P. paniculata ‘Franz Schubert’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial phlox ‘Franz Schubert’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Of a bushy habit but liable to be mistaken for an upright type, ‘Franz Schubert’ frequently crosses the 1m mark in height. It puts on a lovely show in summer, as it bears gradated flowers that are light purple near the centre and soften to pale pink around the edges. 13) P. paniculata Peacock Cherry Red COMMON NAME(S): Perennial phlox HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A bushy, deciduous perennial growing to about 60cm, ‘Peacock Cherry Red’ has lanceolate leaves of a brilliant green shade. Even more brilliant are the clusters of dusky pink-red flowers that it produces from mid-summer, with the bonus of a sweet scent. 14) P. paniculata ‘Le Mahdi’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial phlox ‘Le Mahdi’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Rising to about 1m and not boasting a long flowering season, the bushy type ‘Le Mahdi’ flaunts other charms. It has dark, smoky green foliage which is more than matched by lustrous flowers of a saturated magenta-purple tone, which also exude a fragrance as sensuous as their colour. 15) P. maculata ‘Alpha’ COMMON NAME(S): Meadow phlox ‘Alpha’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing to about 90cm, ‘Alpha’ tends to get started early in the season, and also winds up on the early side in autumn. It has light, bright green foliage over which it bears panicles of fragrant little flowers of a light and bright magenta-pink hue. This variety is a bushy type. 16) P. maculata ‘Omega’ COMMON NAME(S): Meadow phlox ‘omega’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Red and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing to about 90cm and one of the short-flowering varieties, ‘Omega’ has unremarkable foliage but has truly remarkable flowers which it bears in panicles. The 2.5cm blooms are wonderfully fragrant and are pure white with a salmon-pink eye. ‘Omega’ is an upright type of phlox. 17) P. glaberrima ‘Bill Baker’ COMMON NAME(S): Smooth phlox ‘Bill Baker’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Rising to only 40-50cm, ‘Bill Baker’ is an upright, deciduous perennial that has pretty foliage with linear-lanceolate leaves of a soothing mid-green shade. It produces delightful little flowers that are of a soft baby pink tone with white centres and which have a silky sheen. 18) P. paniculata ‘Visions’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial phlox ‘visions’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing up to 1.2m tall and displaying lance-shaped leaves of a fresh, bright green shade, the upright ‘Visions’ starts early in spring and finishes up by autumn. In mid-summer, it produces clusters of salver-shaped, fragrant flowers of a purplish-pink hue with magenta centres. 19) P. paniculata ‘David’s Lavender’ COMMON NAME(S): Phlox ‘David’s Lavender’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Technically of an upright habit, ‘David’s Lavender’ forms mounds and may be mistaken for a bushy type. Its elliptic leaves are of a rich deep green and the clusters of scented flowers it bears in summer range in colouration from pink through lavender to mauve. 20) P. paniculata ‘The King’ COMMON NAME(S): Phlox ‘The King’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread A very tall, upright variety that often reaches a stately 1.2m – ‘The King’ is aptly named because its dense, rounded clusters of fragrant purplish flowers are often of a rich royal violet tone. The rich deep green shade of the foliage provides a fine backdrop for the intensely-coloured blooms.
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15 Astonishing Columbine Flowers Including Alpine And Woodland Species
IN THIS GUIDE 1) A. alpina 2) A. atrata 3) A. ‘Crimson Star’ 4) A. flabellata var. pumila 5) A. formosa 6) A. ‘Dove’ 7) A. vulgaris var. stellata ‘Black Barlow’ 8) A. vulgaris var. stellata ‘Ruby Port’ 9) A. ‘Blue Star’ 10) A. viridiflora ‘Chocolate Soldier’ 11) A. ‘Roundway Chocolate’ 12) A. chrysantha ‘Texas Yellow’ 13) A. vulgaris ‘William Guinness’ 14) A. ‘Origami Red And White’ 15) A. coerulea References Aquilegias, also known as columbines or Granny’s bonnet, have decorated meadows, plains, hilltops and riversides in cooler climates for many a year. “A classic cottage garden plant, Aquilegia is a versatile garden plant,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Most will favour a bright spot with some shade but the alpine species will favour full sun with sharper drainage, whilst the woodland species will prefer more shade. “Choose your favourite flower but make sure it will thrive where you want to put it too!” Now, thanks to their ease of cultivation and colourful blossoms, these deciduous perennials reside in thousands of gardens around the country. Self-seeding and irresistible to bumblebees, they’re a hassle-free addition to any display. Here is a rundown of some of the most popular varieties of Aquilegia grown in the UK, all of which flower in the spring and summer months: 1) A. alpina COMMON NAME(S): Alpine Columbine / Breath of God HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue/Purple and white SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade The classic columbine wildflower, Aquilegia alpina has pendent, droopy, spurred flowers with eye-pulling yet soothing shades ranging from deep blue to deep purple. Their coloured sepals are almost as mesmerising as the spurred ones within, making for a truly striking specimen. As the name suggests, they favour alpine climates and are found in abundance on hillsides and mountaintops. They grow up to 80cm in height and burst forth with their floral display each spring. 2) A. atrata COMMON NAME(S): Dark Columbine HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple and black SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade A pendent maroon-black flower with velvety petals and pronounced spurs, this is one of the smokiest and sultriest of Aquilegias. It grows up to 60cm in height but will comfortably outshine taller plants in its vicinity. It’s immediately recognisable for the sharp contrast between its dark petals and bright yellow stamen, with the former earning it the colloquial nickname of ‘dark columbine’. A show-stopper of a border plant. 3) A. ‘Crimson Star’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Red and white SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Lush red petals, two-toned corolla, and a brush of golden stamens make this upward-facing star-shaped cultivar possibly the most sensuous variety. Its bright blossoms will light up your outdoor display from late spring through early summer. Though its lifespan is on the shorter side, it’s a prolific self-seeder so you needn’t worry about its resurgence the following season. 4) A. flabellata var. pumila COMMON NAME(S): Dwarf fan-shaped columbine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue and cream SUNLIGHT: Part Shade This upward-facing star-shaped flower is delicate and dainty, with a striking purple hue that is so rich and appealing as to hold the eye on its own. The creamy tips of its corolla, offset by the vibrant yellow stamen, take the breath away. A dwarf variety of columbine, this species grows to a mere 15cm in height, making it ideal for more compact spaces. However, despite its diminutive dimensions, it will still more than hold its own in aesthetic terms compared to much taller alternatives. 5) A. formosa COMMON NAME(S): Crimson columbine HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Red and yellow SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Known variously as the crimson columbine, the Western columbine or the red columbine, Aquilegia formosa is native to the western regions of North America.1 Pendent, with spurs projecting upward and yellow stamens downward, the vermilion and buttercup colour combination radiates a warm glow. It’s easy to cultivate and makes for an excellent cut flower. 6) A. ‘Dove’ COMMON NAME(S): Columbine ‘Dove’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Upward-facing, long-spurred, and pure, snowy white, this cultivar exudes simple elegance and is an understated showstopper. The brilliance of its petals is complemented beautifully by the purple of its sepal (replicated in the heart of the corolla), the lush green of the leaves and the yellow of the stamen. The plant is capable of reaching around 45cm in height, with its petals reaching almost a fifth of that length. While the flower-heads are undoubtedly the star of the show, the fernlike foliage beneath is attractive in its own right. This cultivar is from the Songbird Series. 7) A. vulgaris var. stellata ‘Black Barlow’ COMMON NAME(S): Columbine ‘Black Barlow’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade How many black flowers can you think of? They are quite rare in the horticultural world. Just about the most dramatic cultivar, the upward-facing, stiff black petals of ‘Black Barlow’ catch – and hold – the eye. Aside from the musky appeal of its pompon-like flowers, this variety is also prized for its height. Capable of reaching 90cm, it towers above other specimens with ominous authority, bringing energy and excitement to any setting. 8) A. vulgaris var. stellata ‘Ruby Port’ COMMON NAME(S): Columbine ‘Ruby Port’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Red SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Somewhat unusual in being fully double yet pendent, the rich ruby port shade of its petals makes a stunning contrast with light green foliage and bright yellow stamen. It’s a mid-sized cultivar capable of exceeding 70cm in height, with the stems themselves the same deep red of the flowerheads. It’s most certainly the blossoms which take centre stage with this variety thanks to their unique, almost pinecone-like structure. 9) A. ‘Blue Star’ COMMON NAME(S): Columbine ‘Blue Star’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Blue, purple and white SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Despite its name, the blooms of this cultivar resemble more purple than blue. Combined with bold green leaves, a pure white corolla and protruding yellow stamen, this is one of the loveliest and most sweetly charming of columbines. They’re popular for the size of their blooms (sometimes reaching 10cm in diameter) and their flowering period, since they burst into life at the beginning of spring when much of the rest of the garden has yet to waken from its winter slumber. 10) A. viridiflora ‘Chocolate Soldier’ COMMON NAME(S): Columbine ‘Chocolate Soldier’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Brown, purple and green SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Everything about this specimen is smaller and shyer than many of its counterparts. The downward-facing cup-shaped blossoms come in a humble hue of purplish-brown, with green sepals adding variety and yellow stamen bringing modest panache. It’s also a dwarf species, meaning it’ll only ever reach around 35cm in height. That makes it ideal for filling vacant space in a sunny border or adding intrigue to a busy rockery. 11) A. ‘Roundway Chocolate’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Brown and orange SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Sticking with the chocolate theme, this cultivar is somewhat similar to ‘Ruby Port’ in the rusty red and double-flowering nature of its blossoms. It certainly doesn’t resemble chocolate, whatever those who named the plant might have supposed. It’s also on the smaller side for Aquilegias, reaching just 30cm. The fieriness of its red flowerhead works well with similarly hot colours in a sunny border. Alternatively, you could arrange them alongside plants which have dark flowers or foliage to provide a pleasing contrast. 12) A. chrysantha ‘Texas Yellow’ COMMON NAME(S): Columbine ‘Yellow Queen’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Yellow SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Unlike many of the cultivars mentioned on this list, ‘Texas Yellow’ doesn’t trifle with two-tones and multi-colours. Instead, it does what it says on the tin, with bright lemony blooms bobbing atop bold green stems. Capable of reaching a very respectable 80cm in height, it’s excellent for positioning at the rear of borders in cottage-garden displays. It will flourish in full sun but can handle partial shade tolerably well, too. 13) A. vulgaris ‘William Guinness’ COMMON NAME(S): Columbine ‘William Guiness’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple and white SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade More drama is now in the shape of ‘William Guinness’, which catches the eye with its two-toned corolla. The inner part of the petals is a deep dark purple (bordering on black), which is replicated in the sepals. The outer area is pure white. Flowering in late spring and early summer, this variety can reach 75cm in height and will do well in full sun or partial shade. 14) A. ‘Origami Red And White’ COMMON NAME(S): Columbine ‘Origami Red and White’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Red and white SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Each spring, this cultivar will explode into life with a profusion of crimson, pink and white blossoms. The sepals are of such length and such a profound shade of red that they overshadow the greenery beneath, while the contrast of the white petals and yellow stamen completes the picture. ‘Origami Red and White’ reaches around 60cm in height and is perfect for underplanting rose bushes and shrubs. This stunning specimen won’t look out of place in cottage gardens and ornamental displays. 15) A. coerulea COMMON NAME(S): Rocky Mountain columbine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue and white SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Informally known as the Rocky Mountain columbine, there are no prizes for guessing where this dainty specimen comes from. It’s an upright plant that grows to a mere 35cm in height, but what it lacks in stature, it makes up for in elegance. The green, many-lobed leaflets have hairy undersides, providing a dense and furry backdrop to the pale-to-deep-blue sepals and brilliant white petals (complete with slender pointed spurs) atop them. This variety is great for borders and beds. References 1. Aquilegia formosa. (n.d.). US Forest Service. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/beauty/columbines/aquilegia_formosa.shtml
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16 Auricula Varieties Chosen By Gardeners, With Many Incredible Award-Winners
IN THIS GUIDE 1) P. auricula 2) P. × pubescens 3) P. ‘Eden Goldfinch’ 4) P. auricula ‘Lucy Locket’ 5) P. auricula ‘Piers Telford’ 6) P. auricula hort. ‘Joyce’ 7) P. auricula ‘Piglet’ 8) P. auricula ‘Golden Hind’ 9) P. auricula ‘Red Gauntlet’ 10) P. auricula ‘Remus’ 11) P. auricula ‘Benny Green’ 12) P. auricula ‘Maggie’ 13) P. ‘Pinstripe’ 14) P. auricula ‘Blush Baby’ 15) P. auricula hort. ‘Monet’ 16) P. auricula ‘Nantenan’ Varieties Explained References The vernacular word ‘Auricula’ is an umbrella term that encompasses (plants in) Genus Primula, the hybrids developed by crossing Primula auricula and Primula hirsuta – and the innumerable cultivars developed from them. These plants belong to Family Primulaceae, or the Primrose Family.1 Genus Primula has approximately 521 confirmed or accepted species.2 ‘Charles Rennie’ Auricula hybrids and cultivars number in the few thousands.3 Species, hybrids or cultivars – these plants are herbaceous, evergreen perennials. “I love an Auricula display but have always been a bit wary of starting with one and ending up with a greenhouse full!” shares Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “That said, I have been tempted over the years at flower shows and have five different types and make a mini-display by my front door when they’re in flower. “Even with a small number, Auriculas make a cheerful display indoors or out in late spring or early summer.” 1) P. auricula One of the ‘fundamental’ species and is one of only nine Auriculas to have received the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. It bears brilliant yellow 2cm flowers with the typical farinose disk, and with a distinct fragrance. It has a clump-forming habit and can reach half-a-metre in height. 2) P. × pubescens Similarly a ‘fundamental’ hybrid and has also been accorded the Award of Garden Merit. It bears 2cm wide fragrant flowers with white, creamy, or yellow farina and is usually pink or purple in colour, but also white or red. This plant too has a clump-forming habit and is about 10 centimetres. 3) P. ‘Eden Goldfinch’ Type: Border / Garden Can hardly be matched for its bright cheeriness; the colours of sunshine are displayed by this variety: a yellow eye is surrounded by a cream-yellow disk progressing to flame-orange feathering into a ground of rich, bright sunshine yellow. 4) P. auricula ‘Lucy Locket’ Type: Border / Garden Features a flower as sedate and restrained as its name would seem to suggest. Yellow eyes and a hard white centre may be ‘normal’ but the soft pale ochre ground is a sharp change from the usual brilliant tones. 5) P. auricula ‘Piers Telford’ Type: Alpine A popular variety with colours that are deep and rich and can add some lovely contrast. The central disk is a bright yellow adjoining which the petals start from blackish maroon, fade to red, and finish in pale orange. 6) P. auricula hort. ‘Joyce’ Type: Border / Garden This variety also has contrast and displays intense colouration. The creamy-coloured disk is adjoined by violet petals that start nearly black, fading to violet, and further fading to a border of medium purple. 7) P. auricula ‘Piglet’ Type: Double Puts out flowers replete with ruffles and frills that go perfectly with its baby pink colour, ranging from purplish-pink near the centre to pale pink near the border. The layman could be forgiven for confusing it with a carnation! 8) P. auricula ‘Golden Hind’ Type: Double Could be called a two-in-one Double as the ruffled petals are bright yellow with crimson to rose daubs at the base of the petals feathering into the yellow, similar to Edged Shows. Unlike most doubles it has a sweet scent. 9) P. auricula ‘Red Gauntlet’ Type: Self Show ‘Basic’ and stunning: the usual yellow eye is surrounded by a pure white farina which makes for a brilliant contrast with the ground of the deepest, richest, hard red. 10) P. auricula ‘Remus’ Type: Self Show Has the usual yellow eye and a pure white farina with a ground colour of the deepest, richest, royal purple. It is simple yet stellar. 11) P. auricula ‘Benny Green’ Type: Edged Show Virtually a four-colour variety starting off with a bright yellow eye and a creamy white disk. What ‘makes’ this variety is the extraordinary opposite-colour contrast between the green edge and the rich red-purple ground colour with appealing ‘ink bleeds’ into the edge. 12) P. auricula ‘Maggie’ Type: Edged Show An exceptional variety because of the absence of green and its ‘classic’ colour scheme. The eye is a deep yellow. The white disk is nearly matched by the off-white or grey-white edge in-between which a burgundy-black ground shows heavy and uneven feathering into the edge. 13) P. ‘Pinstripe’ Type: Striped Show Does not have a very descriptive name. It has a yellow eye; the pure white disk is surrounded by a very deep purplish-burgundy hue that is streaked and striped with white, which shade predominates at the rim. 14) P. auricula ‘Blush Baby’ Type: Striped Show This one is for you if you like the white-and-red colour combination. While it has yellow eyes, the optical ‘hit’ lies in the pure white disk with bright rose-red petals that are brushed with white striping. 15) P. auricula hort. ‘Monet’ Type: Fancy Show Aptly named because it does remind one of the Impressionist palette and style. A creamy centre is surrounded by petals that subtly gradate and have gentle shadings between pale yellow and pale pink, with some ‘brushstrokes’ of pale lime green. 16) P. auricula ‘Nantenan’ Type: Fancy Show Has a prominent yellow eye and white disk outside which the ground colour of bluish-green is interspersed with radial strokes and streaks of yellow that match the eye, and fade and gradate into the ground colour in a gently complementary colour scheme. Varieties Explained As highly-cultivated plants that bear show flowers, Auricula varieties are divided and sub-divided into types and sub-types with highly-specific inclusions and exclusions of characteristics primarily related to pattern and secondarily to colouration. The vast majority of cultivar plants are of clump-forming habits and are from 20-40cm tall. P. auricula ‘Gizabroon’ They have a short but spectacular flowering season for only about two months in spring with May being the happiest month. The strongest types and most trouble-free to grow are Border Auriculas or Garden Auriculas. These have a white or cream-gold central disk (without farina) with the petals being in a single, though not necessarily solid, colour. Alpine Types These are show flowers and are subject to rigorous specifications and restrictions. Specialists sub-divide them further into Light Centred, Gold Centred, and Laced. The corolla is sharply gradated from a darker hue near the centre to a lighter one at the rim. These types do not have any farina or meal on flower or foliage. Show Types The specifications and restrictions go double for Show Auriculas, which are subdivided into Self, Edged, Striped, and Fancy sub-types. Self Shows have a white or creamy farina with the petals in a solid, even-toned colour. Edged Shows display reduced ground colour in the form of a feathered ring between the disk and the edge, which is usually green and is more like a band than a mere ‘edge’. Striped Shows have distinct radial striping, be it streaks, stripes or bands, from disk to rim. Finally, Fancy Shows are a basket class without highly specific restrictions into which any show type that does not fall into the three rigorously-described sub-types may be placed. Double Types ‘Forest Scherbet’ Finally, Double Auriculas are those with two or more rows of folded and ruffled petals such that they obscure the central disk. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.-b). Primula auricula. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/OP/Primulaa 2. Primula. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30005261-2#children 3. Auricula cultivation. (n.d.). NAPS. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.southernauriculaprimula.org/auriculas
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These Are My 18 Favourite Primrose Varieties For A Distinctive English Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) English Primrose 2) Common Primrose 3) Sibthorp Primrose 4) ‘Dunbeg’ Primrose 5) ‘Taigetos’ Primrose 6) ‘Danova’ Series 7) ‘Charisma’ Series 8) Common Cowslip 9) Giant Cowslip 10) ‘Crescendo’ Primrose 11) ‘Francisca’ Primrose 12) ‘Guinevere’ Primrose 13) Mountain Cowslip 14) ‘Aire Mist’ Primrose 15) Primula ‘Broadwell Milkmaid’ 16) Primrose ‘Clarence Eliot’ 17) Garden Auricula 18) True Oxlip Honourable Mentions Both the English Primrose and the Common Primrose are so well-known and are such standard bearers for their genus that have lent their name to a colour – the soft, pale tone of yellow commonly called ‘Primrose’ on paint cans and swatches around the world. This being the case perhaps it is somewhat surprising that Primroses come in an astonishing variety of shades and hues, and even a few edged and striped varieties. Most of these flowers are showy, and many are fragrant and pull butterflies and bees. Another recognisable visible property of Primula is that many plants of this genus form a basal rosette of stemless leaves. Most Primula varieties’ leaves themselves are very distinct, being deep but bright green, rather crinkled, and having a dentate margin. Another distinctive feature is that many varieties’ flower stalks are somewhat hairy. Plants of heights from 15 to 30 centimetres and a clumping habit are seen very frequently. Here are eighteen of my favourites, along with some notable mentions I couldn’t help but include at the end: 1) English Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: P. vulgaris or P. acaulis TYPE: Common Primrose HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWER COLOUR: Varies The ‘mother species’, so to speak, grows only up to 10cm with a similar spread. The leaves are tongue-shaped and of a medium green hue. The open, salver-shaped flowers of 2.5-3.5cm are soft, pale yellow with a bright buttercup yellow eye. A mutation has resulted in some plants bearing pink or purplish flowers of the same soft, pale tone as the standard yellow ones, and also whitish ones. Flowers bloom in spring and have a scent whose soothing gentleness matches that of their colour. While the English Primrose is on the decline in East Anglia, it continues to thrive in the South-Western region, particularly Devon County. It is native to Europe but its population is declining all over Europe except in the United Kingdom. These plants prefer a sheltered spot, in moist but well-drained soil, and are fully hardy, with a H7 hardiness rating. Whether in a woodland garden, cottage garden or wildflower meadow, these lovely spring blooms work extremely well in many different gardens. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 2) Common Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: P. vulgaris subsp. vulgaris TYPE: Common Primrose HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWER COLOUR: Varies The frequently-seen subspecies of the English Primrose differs from the species in being 20-40cm tall and with a similar spread. The flowers, while similar and also scented, are also a little bigger. Finally, it starts to bloom a little earlier than the English Primrose, often in late winter. Even its range is bigger, covering most of Europe and extending to Southwestern Asia and the Northwestern sliver of Africa but this variety too is dwindling throughout its range except for the United Kingdom. Recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. “The English primrose and common primrose are derived from the same species Primula vulgaris, with ‘vulgaris’ meaning common in Latin,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “Depending on where you are from and who taught you, you may call both species the common primrose.” 3) Sibthorp Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: P. vulgaris subsp. sibthorpii TYPE: Common Primrose HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: Varies Another subspecies of P. vulgaris, it is 20-40cm tall but with a spread of about 10cm. It has clusters of long-stalked flowers which are a lovely vibrant pinkish purple colour. These flowers are around 2-3cm wide, and also bloom in early spring. They can also work well in full sun or partial shade and are H5 hardy. Blooming in spring, it is found in a swath of land from Greece to Turkey. Another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 4) ‘Dunbeg’ Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: P. vulgaris ‘Dunbeg’ TYPE: Common Primrose HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWER COLOUR: White and Yellow This variant is similar to P. vulgaris with the difference that its foliage is a bronzed green with an ochreous tinge and the flowers being off-white or even pure white with a brilliant, deep yellow centre. 5) ‘Taigetos’ Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: P. vulgaris ‘Taigetos’ TYPE: Common Primrose HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWER COLOUR: White and Yellow This cultivar of P. vulgaris is also around 15cm tall, and yet its flowers are white, with yellow centres. The white blooms really stand out in dappled shade and bring some light into these somewhat shadier spots in the early spring. Just like the typical P. vulgaris, they can grow in sun or partial shade, in moist but well-drained soil. And they are H7 hardy. 6) ‘Danova’ Series BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Danova’ Series TYPE: Common Primrose HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: Varies The AGM-winning ‘Danova’ series of primroses are a range of clump-forming plants which have attractive flowers with large yellow eyes and petals in numerous shades, from cream, to yellow, to pink, to red, to purple. This species offers near-year-round blooms in over 35 hues and shades. They bloom from late winter and into early spring and sit within the primrose group of Primulas. They are H5 hardy and will grow well in a range of environments in full sun or partial shade, in moist but well-drained soil. They do best in a loam or sand with neutral or acidic pH. 7) ‘Charisma’ Series BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Charisma’ Series TYPE: Common Primrose HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: Pink, Purple and Yellow Another AGM awarded group of primroses is the ‘Charisma’ Series. These perennials grow around 20cm tall and they have vibrant pink flowers which are strongly flushed with a deeper reddish-purple, centred on bright yellow eyes. Under glass, they flower from the late winter. These are also H5 hardy, and also prefer a moist but well-drained, acidic or neutral loam or sand. They can grow well in full sun or partial shade, but should not be allowed to dry out in hot weather. These can be a great choice for container growing in particular, in an east-facing or south-facing spot. 8) Common Cowslip BOTANICAL NAME: P. veris TYPE: Cowslip HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: Yellow The Cowslip plant has a basal rosette of leaves on short stalks over which a main stem rises to 20-30cm. It bears an umbel of small, 1.5cm bell-shaped flowers that are strongly scented and are of a deep, brilliant yellow hue. It is native to the United Kingdom, much of Europe and Western Asia. These are a great choice for a sheltered position in a bed, container or meadow scheme, in full sun or partial shade, with moist but well-drained soil. It blooms in mid and late spring. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 9) Giant Cowslip BOTANICAL NAME: P. florindae TYPE: Cowslip HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWER COLOUR: Yellow Much bigger than its diminutive namesake, this native of Tibet reaches a height of 1.2m. The large leaves are 20-40cm long and even the stems are noticeably thicker. The flowers are a much bigger version of those borne by P. veris and are similarly coloured. However, they are more profuse, being 20-30 per umbel, and are even more strongly and sweetly scented. It blooms through the summer – has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 10) ‘Crescendo’ Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Crescendo’ Series TYPE: Polyanthus HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: Pink, Red, Blue & More The Polyanthus group of Primulas are perennials often grown as biennials. They form rosettes, and bear umbels of salver-shaped blooms in the winter and spring. The ‘Crescendo’ Series offers several options which have been given an Award of Garden Merit: Pink and Rose Shades, Bright Red, and Blue. These names refer to the colour of the petals arrayed around the vivid yellow eyes. These Polyanthus are H5 hardy, they like full sun or partial shade, and moist but well-drained soil which is acidic or neutral. 11) ‘Francisca’ Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Francisca’ TYPE: Polyanthus HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWER COLOUR: Yellow And Green This is an evergreen perennial that grows around 18cm tall – it has unusual green, yellow-eyed flowers which are 3-4cm across. The petals have a slightly ruffled appearance and look almost like leaves. With excellent weather resistance, this Polyanthus will bloom throughout spring and summer. This option is H7 hardy, good for sun or part shade. It likes a moist but well-drained, acidic or neutral soil but will not do well if allowed to dry out too much in hot weather. 12) ‘Guinevere’ Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Guinevere’ TYPE: Polyanthus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWER COLOUR: Pink And Purple This Polyanthus is semi-evergreen perennial which grows to around 12cm tall. It has purplish-bronze leaves, and bears umbels of very pale pinkish purple, yellow-eyed flowers 3-4cm across in the spring. It is H6 hardy, and also likes sun or partial shade. The soil, which can be of any type and pH, should be moist but well drained. 13) Mountain Cowslip BOTANICAL NAME: P. auricula TYPE: Auricula HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: Yellow, Pink And Purple Auricula Primulas are evergreen perennials with leathery foliage and simple umbels of salver-shaped flowers which are usually pink, purple or yellow. This option has fragrant, bright yellow flowers 1-2.5cm across, which form in umbels on stems 20cm tall in the spring. H5 hardy, for any moist but well drained soil in full sun or partial shade. It can also be grown in pots in an alpine house. 14) ‘Aire Mist’ Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Aire Mist’ TYPE: Auricula HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: White This Auricula is a small perennial 10cm tall, with pure white flowers which rise on short stems in the spring. This will grow best in a well drained, alkaline soil and could be a good choice for an alpine house or rock garden. 15) Primula ‘Broadwell Milkmaid’ BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Broadwell Milkmaid’ TYPE: Auricula HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: White The flowers of this Auricula can bloom so profusely that they entirely cover the leaves; they are a milky white colour. These are best grown in an alpine house or frame, in a loam-based compost with added lime. Avoid wetting the foliage and flowers. 16) Primrose ‘Clarence Eliot’ BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Clarence Eliot’ TYPE: Auricula HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: Lilac This Auricula grows around 10cm tall. It has lilac-mauve coloured blooms, with white throats, that grow on short stems above the foliage in spring. H5 hardy; best grown in an alkaline, well-drained medium in a rock garden or alpine house. 17) Garden Auricula BOTANICAL NAME: P. x pubescens TYPE: Auricula HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER COLOUR: Purple, Pink, Red, Yellow And White Garden auricula is an evergreen perennial to 12cm. The often fragrant flowers bloom in a range of different hues, from purple, to pink, to red, to yellow, to white. They are around 2cm across, often with prominent eyes. 18) True Oxlip BOTANICAL NAME: P. elatior TYPE: Oxlip HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWER COLOUR: Yellow Another UK native, the oxlip is another semi-evergreen perennial. It grows around 30cm tall and bears dark-eyed yellow flowers, 2.5cm across, in one-sided clusters on its erect stems. This is another great wildlife-friendly choice for your garden – great in containers, in beds or borders, or in a wildflower meadow in full sun or partial shade, in moist but well-drained soil. H6 hardy. Honourable Mentions Other species, less commonly found in British gardens, include: P. parryi or Parry’s Primrose A non-native species from ‘the New World’. P. malacoides or the ‘Fairy Primrose’ From clear across the planet – the Indochina region. Notable and very pretty species from Japan and the Far-East include: P. japonica or ‘Apple Blossom Primrose’ P. sieboldii or the ‘Cherry Blossom Primrose’ P. sieboldii extensively has been cultivated in Japan and a number of stunning cultivars have been developed. P. denticulata As for the unusual P. denticulata, its colloquial name, ‘Drumstick Primula’, is surely the more descriptive on account of its unusual ‘drumstick’ flowers. P. ‘Inverewe’ There is yet another such primrose, Primula ‘Inverewe’ or Candelabra Primrose which bears its vermilion flowers in a whorl not dissimilar from a candelabra. ‘Belarina’ Series The lesser-known ‘Belarina’ Series features unusual double form in rich, saturated hues. This next variety produces eye-catching ‘standard’ flowers but of similar rich, saturated hues: P. ‘Perle Von Bottrop’ P. ‘Perle Von Bottrop’ This variety has a creeping habit with magenta-purple flowers. We close with three highly unusual varieties: P. vialii With flowers strongly resembling those of the Southern African Kniphofia or ‘Red Hot Poker’ is P. vialii AKA ‘Red Hot Poker Primrose’! The flower is essentially a ‘hair curler’ of lilac from which emerges a central tip of ruby red. P. ‘Gold Laced’ Group P. ‘Gold Laced’ Group, one of the Polyanthus Primroses, presents stunning saucer-shaped flowers that are startling crimson-to-black with a broad golden central disk and golden edging. P. ‘Zebra Blue’ Another Polyanthus is P. ‘Zebra Blue’ and it is true to its name as the stunning flower displays delicate blue-and-white striping and veining. Of course, these are just a small fraction of the many, many primroses and other Primulas that you might grow in a UK garden.
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Dahlia Tubers Can Multiply Quickly - Divide Them Every Few Years For Optimal Growth
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Lift The Plants 2) Remove Excess Soil 3) Divide Your Tubers 4) Store Or Pot Up Dahlias are a must-have tuberous perennial for any garden, as they are available in all shapes, sizes and colours and can flower for months on end. Dahlia tubers can grow and multiply quickly, which is why it is often suggested to divide them every year or two. Dividing the tubers not only helps the parent plant to remain healthy and keep blooming but provides new dahlia plants to add to the garden or give away. In colder climates, it is advisable to lift and store dahlia tubers to overwinter safely. However, in milder parts of the United Kingdom, dahlia tubers can usually be mulched and left in the ground to overwinter and divided in early spring. You can lift and divide dahlia tubers by following these steps: Lift the plants using a garden fork or spade Knock off any excess soil Divide the tubers using your spade or secateurs Store or pot up your tubers I have explained this entire process in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Garden spade or fork, gloves, secateurs or knife, steriliser, pots, sand or newspaper, compost. When To Divide March, April, May, June 1) Lift The Plants Whether in spring or winter, the dahlias tubers need to be lifted in order to divide them. This can be done by carefully digging around the plant with a fork or spade and lifting the clump of tubers out of the soil or pot. 2) Remove Excess Soil Once lifted, the tubers need to be cleaned so they are ready to divide or store. Any soil needs to be removed for the tubers, which can be gently done using a soft brush or hose spray. Once cleaned, allow the tubers to dry for a few days and cut off any rotten, soft or dead material with a pair of clean and sharp secateurs. 3) Divide Your Tubers When dividing dahlia tubers, it is important to note that only a tuber with an eye present will grow into a new plant. Any tubers that do not have an eye will not be productive and can be added to the compost heap. Identifying the eyes on the tubers can be tricky. The eyes are situated at the top of the tubers, by the previous year’s stem and can look like a black or coloured little bump. Unlike potatoes, dahlias do not produce eyes on the body or end of the tubers. If no eyes are visible, the clump can simply be cut into 3-4 equal pieces which will most likely all have an eye or two each. Alternatively, the tubers can be left in a warm environment to encourage the eyes to develop and swell and be easier to identify. Dahlia tubers can be susceptible to infection from the wounds made when being divided, thus it is recommended to use a clean and sharp knife that is sterilised in between plants. To divide the tubers, simply cut the tubers apart at the neck, whether in small clumps or individually, making sure each division has a healthy tuber with an eye present to grow from. Allow the separated divisions to rest for 2-3 days, which will allow the wounds to dry a little before storing for longer or potting up. 4) Store Or Pot Up The divided tubers can then continue to be stored until required or potted up to grow on. Dahlia tubers need to be stored in a cool, dry, dark and frost-free environment until all risk of frost has passed when they can then be planted out. To store, the tubers can be placed in pots or boxes and covered with dry sand or vermiculite, or wrapped in newspaper and placed in a frost-free garage or greenhouse. Alternatively, in March or April, the tubers can be potted up in suitably sized pots with a peat-free general-purpose compost. I would advise planting with the eye up, to a depth so that the top of the tuber is just below the soil surface and any old stems above. Water and grow on in a greenhouse until after the last frost and the plant is big enough to fend off any slug or snail attack. Whether the divisions are for storing or potting up, don’t forget to label them, as dahlia tubers can be very difficult to distinguish between. “What if your Dahlia doesn’t have tubers?” asks Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “This is common in bedding Dahlias and will be the case for any newly propagated plant from a cutting or seed. “Newly propagated plants will have a more fibrous root system but given favourable conditions, these plants will develop a fasciculated tuberous root (tuber) over time. “It is commonly encountered that when people dig up young plants or bedding Dahlias in autumn that they have not had a chance to develop a tuberous system yet. “In this case, I would advise keeping the plant (or cuttings from) in a heated greenhouse or conservatory to over winter.”
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Sowing Bedding Dahlias: They'll Typically Flower After 100-120 Days
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare To Sow 2) Sow Your Seeds 3) Wait For Germination 4) Pot Up The Seedlings 5) Harden Off & Plant Out Dahlias are attractive plants which can work well in many gardens, sporting a hugely varied group of flowering plants. Fast-growing bedding dahlias are suitable for growing from seed, while other dahlias are best propagated by means of planting tubers, or from cuttings. However, you can also use the same method to sow seeds you have collected yourself from an existing dahlia in your garden the previous season. This can be a very interesting thing to do because it can throw up a range of new varieties, as you can not be entirely sure of what the plants sown from seed will actually look like, and how their flowers will be. Of course, if you purchase seeds, this is also a very affordable way to obtain new dahlia plants. It will cost far less than growing potted plants or purchasing tubers to plant. To grow bedding dahlias from seed, sow undercover in late winter or early spring: Fill a seed tray or small pots with moist potting mix. Gently push the dahlia seeds into the potting medium. Wait for seeds to germinate. Once true leaves form, transplant the dahlia seedlings into individual pots. Harden off seedlings before transplanting to their final growing positions in May. Read on for more detail on each of the steps outlined above. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, pots or seed trays, covers or a propagator lid, potting medium When To Sow February to April When To Plant Out May 1) Prepare To Sow Dahlias are best sown indoors from February to get them off to the best start, though you can also sow them where they are to grow in April, once the risk of frost has passed in your area. Take a seed tray or small plugs, soil blocks or pots, and fill these with a suitable, moist, peat-free seed starting compost. “I recommend augmenting peat-free seed compost with one part fine-grade vermiculite to two parts compost,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Instructor and Consultant. “My personal favourite mix is one part fine-grade vermiculite, one part hydrated coir and one part peat-free seed compost. “I will pot plants onto a similar mix of one part vermiculite (any grade), one part hydrated coir and one part peat-free multipurpose compost, adding some 6-month controlled release fertiliser.” 2) Sow Your Seeds Dahlia seeds are long and thin, and blackish in colour. Gently push the dahlia seeds vertically down into the compost, making sure that they are in good contact with the growing medium around them. Place these in a bright location with reasonable humidity. 3) Wait For Germination Dahlia seeds should germinate within around 2 weeks. Ensure that the medium remains moist but not damp during this time. 4) Pot Up The Seedlings Once the dahlia seeds have germinated, wait for the first leaves to grow. As soon as a couple of leaves have grown and the seedlings are large enough to handle, you can gently tease each one out of the growing medium and place each one into its own individual pot to grow on. Pots should be around 10cm in size and should be filled with a peat-free, multi-purpose compost. Water in the plants well on transplantation and grow them on indoors or under cover until around the middle of May. 5) Harden Off & Plant Out From around the middle of May, you can begin the hardening-off process. This simply means slowly acclimatising indoor grown plants to outdoor conditions. Gradually place them outdoors for longer and longer periods, bringing them in at night, or use a cold frame for the hardening-off process if you have one. Dahlia seedlings can be planted out into their final growing positions once all risk of frost has passed where you live. Bedding dahlia planted out in May should flower the same year. Typically, bedding dahlias will flower from 100-120 days after the seeds are sown, but with other dahlias, you may have to wait longer for blooms to emerge.
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Caring For Delphinium Plants Over Winter - Watch Out For Wetness Rather Than Cold
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Ensure Free Drainage 2) Cut Back Foliage For Winter 3) Move To A Sheltered Spot How you care for delphiniums in winter very much depends on the type of delphinium that you have chosen to grow. Perennial delphiniums are typically H5 or H6 hardy, so they can make it through even extreme winters in UK gardens as long as they are growing in a free-draining spot. The most dangerous thing for delphiniums in winter is not cold, but wet. Delphiniums grown as annuals, also known as ‘Larkspurs’, are the type I usually grow. These will only grow over the summer and will not overwinter to flower the following year. Usually I will simply remove these once the flowering display is over. However, for perennial types which will overwinter: Make sure that perennial delphiniums are in a free-draining spot. Cut back delphinium foliage after the first frosts or in early spring. Move container-grown delphiniums to a sheltered location, protected from winter cold and wet. Read on for a slightly more detailed description of how to care for perennial delphinium in winter: 1) Ensure Free Drainage Delphinium are less susceptible to winter cold damage than they are to the problems associated with water-logging. To keep perennial delphiniums healthy so that they flower again the following year, make sure the roots are in free-draining soil or growing medium, so root rot and other problems associated with water-logging are less likely to occur. “It is, of course, best to grow delphinium if you want to overwinter in free-draining soil, but on occasion, I have improved heavier soils by adding sand and grit during planting and winter mulching,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. 2) Cut Back Foliage For Winter Like other herbaceous perennials, delphinium will die back over winter before producing a flush of new growth the following spring. If you wish to tidy up your beds or borders at the end of the year, you can cut back the leaves after the first frosts. However, it can be a good idea to leave foliage in place over the winter, as though it may look a little untidy, it can be beneficial for wildlife. Leaving dead and dying foliage in place over the winter months gives wildlife a valuable place to shelter during the coldest part of the year. 3) Move To A Sheltered Spot Delphinium growing in containers are more vulnerable than those growing in the ground. The roots of plants in pots are less insulated and can be more prone to cold damage. Therefore, it is a good idea to move perennial delphiniums that are growing in pots to a more sheltered spot for the winter. This should be somewhere they are protected from winter wet as well as from the cold. I often move my delphiniums in containers to a spot in the lee of a wall or fence, which is drier and where excessive rainfall in winter is not as much of a problem. However, it can also be a good idea, especially in wetter regions, to place the dormant plants into a cold frame, polytunnel or greenhouse until the early spring. Roots are less likely to rot if they are placed somewhere where winter rainfall will not be an issue.
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