Growing
End Of Season Delphiniums - Should You Deadhead The Flower Or The Inflorescence?
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead 1) Pinch Off Flowers 2) Isolate The Inflorescence 3) Deadhead 4) Cut Back In Autumn Delphiniums, also known as larkspurs, are deciduous perennials that produce an abundance of tightly clustered flowers on tall spikes and racemes, creating a joyous show of fabulous colour during the height of summer. Deadheading these plants is an important component of plant care, not only because of garden aesthetics but because it redirects the plant’s energy into forming fresh blooms rather than developing seeds. Because delphiniums produce numerous blooms on spikes or racemes, the entry-level gardener may be puzzled as to what to deadhead – the flower or the inflorescence. We’ll guide you on what to deadhead – and how and when. It’s important to remember that, because the blooms are borne on long upright spikes or racemes that emerge from the middle of the foliage, deadheading delphiniums is not as simple or straightforward as deadheading plants that produce individual stalked blossoms. Nonetheless, once you get the hang of it you’ll be able to deadhead larkspurs correctly and efficiently. This process is explained in depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs When To Deadhead July through October as a continuing activity When To Deadhead You should begin to deadhead these plants soon after the first flush of blooms. Thereafter, inspect your plants on a regular basis, I’d recommend every 7-10 days, and deadhead on an as-needed basis. Now you know when to deadhead, here are the 4 steps you need to follow to deadhead your delphiniums: 1) Pinch Off Flowers When you notice a few flowers on an inflorescence wilting or wilted, steady the spike or raceme with one hand and simply pinch off or snap off the flowers with the other hand. 2) Isolate The Inflorescence As the season progresses you will observe that a great number of the flowers have wilted or are withered and spent. For the most part, an inflorescence should be deadheaded from where it emerges from the centre of the plant within the foliage. Hold the spike or raceme with one hand, tilting it a little as necessary, reach downward with the other hand and hook the rear blade of the bypass secateurs around the stalk in question, then slide the secateurs downward to cut it as close as possible to the base where it attaches to the plant. However, on occasion, especially on plants with a bushy habit, you may not want to cut off the entire spike from its base. If you notice that a spike is putting out healthy flowering shoots from its side near the bottom, deadhead it from just above these shoots. 3) Deadhead Take care that the other stalks or stems are not enclosed within the blade along with the one you intend to deadhead. Cut off the inflorescence with a crisp squeeze of the secateurs and pull out. “It is worth considering not deadheading all your flowers, or at least some September blooms, as these can be perfect to harvest seed from to propagate new plants,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. 4) Cut Back In Autumn After the flowering season is over, which is usually around October, you will notice that the plant is withering away. At this time you should cut back the entire plant down to 5-6cm from the ground. It will then come back bigger and better in the spring.
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20 Delphinium Types With Advice From RHS Gold Medalist Graham Austin
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. ‘Jill Curley’ 2) D. ‘Elisabeth Sahin’ 3) D. ‘Olive Poppleton’ 4) D. ‘Atholl’ 5) D. ‘Walton Gemstone’ 6) D. ‘Sungleam’ 7) D. ‘Foxhill Nina’ 8) D. ‘Spindrift’ 9) D. ‘Can-Can’ 10) D. ‘Blue Dawn’ 11) D. ‘Kestrel’ 12) D. ‘Langdon’s Blue Lagoon’ 13) D. ‘Blue Nile’ 14) D. ‘Clifford Sky’ 15) D. ‘Galileo’ 16) D. ‘Bruce’ 17) D. ‘Fenella’ 18) D. ‘Michael Ayres’ 19) D. ‘Purple Velvet’ 20) D. ‘Faust’ Delphiniums have flower-laden vertical inflorescences in all kinds of hues and shades that make for a spectacular summer show. These are undemanding hardy perennials that will give the casual gardener much joy year after year. Delightful delphiniums are much-loved by flower-lovers all around the world for their profusion of charming cup-shaped blossoms that are borne on thick spikes, and also on racemes or panicles. Also known as Larkspur, these deciduous perennials exhibit a bushy or columnar habit. They are stately, tall plants, with many varieties attaining heights of 1-2m – sometimes even more. The flowers’ colours are as striking as the plants’ heights. Soft shades of pure white, rich cream, and baby pink at one extreme compete with thrilling hues of rich violet and deep indigo at the extreme end of the spectrum. Also, palmate leaves are so heavily lobed on some varieties that they resemble compound leaves, heightening the attraction of these plants. As delphiniums combine an uncomplicated charm with a symmetric grace, I believe that these flowering plants are among the very few that are ideally suited for all kinds of gardens, from formal gardens of estates to simple cottage gardens in the countryside. “I have often said you could easily have a long border filled with just Delphinium varieties, perhaps one day I will try it!” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I have had up to 10 types in a long border. I start with the shorter varieties at the front and work backwards, increasing the height. “I also start with the intense and electric colours nearest the point they are first viewed and work along the border, softening the shades and intensity.” When we spoke with Graham Austin from Home Farm Plants (a specialist delphinium nursery in Hemel Hempstead), there were a few notable varieties he chose to share from the 100 or so that he grows at his nursery: “‘Ruby Wedding’, which was bred by a friend of ours, is a unique cranberry colour,” said Graham. “I must also mention ‘Austin’s Dawn Chorus’, which was raised by us at the Nursery. This is a very early flowering delphinium, hence the name ‘Dawn Chorus’.” Moving away from Graham’s favourites, underneath I have listed 20 of my favourite varieties to grow here in the UK. All of my selections have been recipients of the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit and it’s easy to see why. 1) D. ‘Jill Curley’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m Our lead-off variety displays pure white semi-double flowers with an off-white eye on very tall stalks that rise to over 2m. The flowers are not only relatively large at 8cm or more, but they are also abundant on this floriferous variety. 2) D. ‘Elisabeth Sahin’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White HEIGHT: 1-1.5m Is an early-to-flower variety rising to heights of up to 1m. It has pure white flowers (even the centre is white!) but for a delicious twist, the occasional bloom exhibits the barest flush of rose-pink or blue! The flowering season is over the spring-summer cusp. 3) D. ‘Olive Poppleton’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and yellow HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m ‘Olive Poppleton’ completes our treble of whites. This one has whiter than white semi-double flowers adorned with rich golden eyes. The snowy white blooms of this free-flowering variety are borne on spikes on a tall plant of upright habit that grows to about 2m. 4) D. ‘Atholl’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and brown HEIGHT: 1-1.5m Transitioning to black-and-white, ‘Atholl’ has semi-double snow-white flowers with sizeable and conspicuous brown-black eyes, making for a striking contrast. Flowers are borne on spikes up to 1m in length. Though this variety has an upright habit, it is well-branched. 5) D. ‘Walton Gemstone’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Silver, grey, purple and white HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m This variety has particularly light green foliage, but the colour of the semi-double flowers defies precise description. I’d say that they are of a subtle shade of pale greyish-lilac with white eyes, but their tone will seem to shift with the light and the angle. These tone-shifting blooms are about 7cm wide. 6) D. ‘Sungleam’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and yellow HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m Stiffly erect and about 2m tall, ‘Sungleam’ has 60cm racemes laden with semi-double flowers of a rich creamy shade with buttery flushes and a similarly buttery-yellow eye. The mid-green leaves are heavily lobed and divided, more so than most varieties. 7) D. ‘Foxhill Nina’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and pink HEIGHT: 1-1.5m ‘Foxhill Nina’ grows to only a little over 1m, which is short for a delphinium. Its height makes it most apt for the sweet and demure flowers it bears, which are a soft pink trending to light lavender, and sporting white eyes. These gentle blooms will keep you company plumb in the middle of summer. 8) D. ‘Spindrift’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue HEIGHT: 1-1.5m Staying with softness and gentility, ‘Spindrift’ also reaches less than 1.5m. It has a bushy habit on which it produces floral spikes. The not-so-big semi-double flowers are a charming shade of a very light, pastel lilac with many petals displaying blue flushes and tints, centred with a white eye. 9) D. ‘Can-Can’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple and blue HEIGHT: 1-1.5m This is a variety to seek out because it bears fully double flowers that are about 7cm in diameter. While the blooms’ colour varies from light purple to deep purple, many petals are edged or flushed with a rich-blue, adding to its delight. Though its habit is classified as upright, the plant is bushy. 10) D. ‘Blue Dawn’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Brown, blue and purple HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m The flowers of this aptly-named variety are rich-blue, but sometimes of that cool, somewhat steely, tone of blue one sees at daybreak. There’s also a lovely variation: petals frequently display purple flushes and splashes. It is an upright variety that is very tall, attaining a height of over 2m. 11) D. ‘Kestrel’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue HEIGHT: 1-1.5m An especially vigorous variety, ‘Kestrel’ grows from 1.5-2m tall. Though it has an upright habit, it is also well-branched. That said, the most notable feature is its flower, which is an astonishingly intense, rich hue of mid-blue with random petals displaying flushes and tints of purple. 12) D. ‘Langdon’s Blue Lagoon’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and blue HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m This variety features flowers of a head-turning shade of blue which is a saturated, almost electric hue. Prominent white eyes accentuate the intense colour. The 7cm flowers are borne on spikes up to 90cm tall. This strong-growing cultivar attains a height of nearly 2m. 13) D. ‘Blue Nile’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and blue HEIGHT: 1-1.5m In this variety, that rises to about 1.5m, the semi-double flowers steal the show. These are of a striking hue of blue ranging from an intense mid-blue to rich purplish blue, often with purple tinges and flushes. These hues are intensified by the conspicuous snowy white eyes. 14) D. ‘Clifford Sky’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and blue HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m A very tall variety that levels out at about 2m has its height further emphasised by its erect habit and long floral spikes. The 7cm semi-double flowers bloom during mid-summer. They are of a soothing sky blue to lilac shade and sport white eyes. 15) D. ‘Galileo’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m This variety’s spikes are richly laden with semi-double blooms of a 7cm width, but most noticeably, they have a marvellous colour. They are of a light but intense sky-blue freely tinged and flushed with light purple. It is an early-flowering variety of mid-height at just shy of 2m. 16) D. ‘Bruce’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple and brown HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m ‘Bruce’ grows to about 2m in height and sports particularly interesting foliage on account of its heavily lobed leaves that display a glossy sheen. This cultivar’s racemes are big at just over 1m in length. These bear rich purple flowers with the petals gradating from centre to edge to a slightly darker shade. 17) D. ‘Fenella’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue HEIGHT: 1-1.5m At only 1.5m tall, ‘Fenella’ is considered the short option where delphiniums are concerned. Even so, the racemes are 90cm long and bear flowers with a brownish eye and of thrilling and unusual shades that range from deep indigo to deep bluish-purple. 18) D. ‘Michael Ayres’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue and purple HEIGHT: 1-1.5m A special variety that has an upright habit but displays well-branched spikes, rising to just over 1.5m in height. It blossoms in early summer, producing flowers of a rich, royal purple, centred with a dark eye. The flowers are of a lighter shade towards the centre and have a glazed or matte finish. 19) D. ‘Purple Velvet’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue and purple HEIGHT: 1-1.5m Recognised as especially floriferous, this branching variety produces 80cm spikes. The semi-double blooms are 7-8cm wide. Typically of a brilliant purple hue, flowers are near mauve at the centre but virtually violet at the distal ends. A velvety sheen enhances their charms. 20) D. ‘Faust’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple and blue HEIGHT: 1.5-2.5m Though it grows to only about 1.8m, this one is a dramatic choice for a specimen plant. For one thing, the leaves are singularly dark and very divided. As for the flowers, they are borne on stiffly erect racemes, and the blooms are of a rich, deep indigo-violet hue that verily holds the eye.
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Help Your Gerbera Survive Winter In 6 Steps - Acclimatising Is The 'Trickiest Part'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Dig Up & Repot 2) Acclimatise The Plant 3) Position On A Sunny Window Sill 4) Water Regularly 5) Trim Blooms 6) Plant Outside In Spring References Gerberas make such a happy addition to any garden or home, blooming in almost every shade imaginable, from orange to pink, to blue to white and many colours in between. Their versatility in colour means they pair beautifully with many other plants, although they look particularly gorgeous next to roses, asparagus, lilac, freesias and chrysanthemums. Thanks to their large assortment of colours, gerberas are said to symbolise beauty and cheer – who doesn’t want a bit of that in their garden?1 Whilst gerberas are relatively easy to grow, the real challenge comes in winter. Helping them to survive during the long, cold months is tricky, and not always possible, but it’s certainly worth a go. Here are six essential steps for giving your gerberas their best shot at survival: Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Garden trowel, a pot, high-quality potting mix 1) Dig Up & Repot Gerberas do not like cold weather and will not typically survive temperatures below 5°C, so as soon as it drops below this temperature at night, it’s time to get cracking. Using a garden trowel, gently dig up the plant. Fill a container with good quality potting mix and carefully plant the gerbera into the pot. 2) Acclimatise The Plant Acclimating the plant helps to reduce stress on the gerbera. During the night, I bring the plant inside and then pop it back outside during the day. “I have found this to be the trickiest part of trying to help Gerberas to survive the winter,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “Too quick and abrupt a move can cause harm, so try to make the contrast and inside and outside too sharp, too quick. “I move mine into a cold greenhouse next to an open door, which has given the best results.” After doing this for a while, you can gradually reduce the time it spends outside. Once temperatures drop below 6°C during the day, your gerbera should be permanently living indoors. 3) Position On A Sunny Window Sill You will now want to place your pot or container on a sunny window sill. However, I try to avoid intense, bright light. Overwintering gerberas thrive best in indirect sunlight at a room temperature of around 21°C. 4) Water Regularly Check your gerbera regularly and whenever the top 1.25cm feels dry, it’s time to give it a drink. I find that this will usually be every 3-5 days, but you should keep checking on your gerbera, especially when first tending to it. 5) Trim Blooms Not all gerberas will bloom during winter but, if you do get lucky, be sure to trim the flowers the moment they fade. This will encourage extended flowering and keep the plant looking neat and tidy. 6) Plant Outside In Spring Once the days are warmer, nights are reliably above 5°C and there is no threat of frost, you can return your Gerbera outside. You can either keep it in its pot or replant it in your garden. As previously mentioned, gerberas can be tricky customers in winter and even with the most care taken, they may not survive – but follow these steps and you will be giving them the best chance possible. Good luck! References 1. Gerbera Flower Care Tips and Meanings. (n.d.). Interflora. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.interflora.co.uk/page/flower-types/gerberas
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These 10 Beautiful Gerbera Varieties Are Uniform And 'Reliable Performers'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) G. ‘Everlast’ 2) G. jamesonii ‘Festival’ 3) G. ‘Garden Jewels’ 4) G. ‘Garvinea’ 5) G. ‘Garvinea Sweet’ 6) G. ‘Jaguar’ 7) G. ‘Landscape’ 8) G. ‘Revolution’ 9) G. ‘Mega Revolution’ 10) G. Sakata’s Series References Gerbera species number 24 accepted species, in addition to which there are numerous cultivars and many well-established series.1 For all practical purposes, it is the series that have ‘taken over’ in both the home gardening and florist realms of Gerbera growing. For this reason we present several Gerbera series and identify a few recommended varieties in each. We have dispensed with redundant or repetitive words like ‘Gerbera’, ‘Jamesonii’ and ‘Series’ and simply identify each series by its name. “If you buy a named plant from a Series, such as the Mega Revolution series of Gerbera jamesonii, then you know you are buying a plant that has been thoroughly bred for the commercial market, often for cut flowers but sometimes for garden use,” explains Colin Skelly, Horticulturalist and Consultant. “This is usually a sign that the plants will be uniform and reliable performers.” They are presented in alphabetical order with the exception of ‘Mega Revolution’ which follows ‘Revolution.’ 1) G. ‘Everlast’ ‘Everlast’ This variety features semi-compact plants that rise to about 35cm. This series was developed for pot- and container-growing and its varieties are well suited to be treated as houseplants. They bear single flowers that have an especially long vase life, hence the series’s name. They also boast an especially long blooming season from early spring to late autumn. These plants’ hardiness rating is H3. Notable varieties are: ‘Everlast White’ ‘White’ or ‘Amgerbwhi‘ which has snowy white rays which are pink-tinged underneath. ‘Pink’ or ‘Amgerbpink‘ with rich pink to magenta-pink rays. ‘Carmine’ or ‘Amgerbcar‘ that has flowers in proper carmine – a rich, deep red. All have a yellow or orangeish central disk. 2) G. jamesonii ‘Festival’ This was developed by Odense’s Daehnfeldt Seed and commercialised by Japan’s Sakata. This series’s plants produce semi-double flowers. They flower profusely from spring to early autumn but only for one season. On the other hand they are also floriferous and the blooms are on the large side. Many members have a contrasty black or chocolate eye. These compact plants reach heights of only 25-35cm and are especially suited for containers and as they are very tender at only H2 these greenhouse varieties can be treated as houseplants by the hobbyist gardener. ‘Golden Yellow’ is a deep, sunny yellow with a black eye. ‘Apricot’ is a middle orange of a rich hue with a chocolate eye. ‘Neon Rose’ is pink-red with a psychedelic neon tone. 3) G. ‘Garden Jewels’ ‘Fuchsia’ A relatively new series of fully double flowers developed in the United States and offers the hardiest varieties. With a hardiness rating of H5 this is the Gerbera that can be planted outdoors virtually anywhere in the UK. Plants of this series are floriferous, holding several flowers simultaneously, and bloom from spring to autumn. They reach heights of 30-35cm. ‘Red’ has a yellow eye and pure, deep red petals. ‘Fuchsia’ is effectively a bi-colour as off a small dark centre is a ring of intense electric yellow with the rays an equally intense electric pink. ‘Frosted Hot Pink’ ‘Frosted Hot Pink’ has rays of the hot pink colour of its name, with both the main rays and the smaller inner rays having broad white tips. 4) G. ‘Garvinea’ ‘Garvinea’ One of the well-established series and is among the most widely available in the United Kingdom. Plants in this series are very tall, rising to 40-45cm. Plants produce semi-double flowers which are among the smaller ones at 5-6 centimetres while the plants are among the most disease-free. With a hardiness rating of H3 they used to be hardier than other series and other varieties but now have been superseded by genuinely hardy ones. They are valued for their prolonged blooming season; they flower prolifically from early spring until the end of autumn and even beyond. ’Sylvana’ has a yellow disk and pure white rays. ‘Orangina’ has a yellow-orange eye from which radiate rays of a similar or even the same rich yellow-orange hue. ‘Fleurie’ has an orange-red disk and rays of an exciting deep red to crimson shade. 5) G. ‘Garvinea Sweet’ ‘Garvinea Sweet Surprise’ May be considered the ‘improved’ iteration of the ‘Garvinea’ Series. It is similar to the Garvinea series but with a couple of small but significant differences. For Gerberas, this series’s plants are very hardy with some cultivars hardy to H4, and the flowers are usually a little bigger (than ‘Garvinea’) at 7-8cm across. ‘Sweet Memories’ is technically a bi-colour – it has a greenish-yellow eye and while the main layers of rays are soft pink, the smaller inner rays are white producing the effect of a white ring. ‘Sweet Glow’ has a greenish-yellow eye and petals of a solid, intense orange-vermilion colour. ‘Sweet Dreams’ has disks of yellow turning orange and rays of a saturated neon’ish pink. 6) G. ‘Jaguar’ Was specially developed for two features: early blooming and uniformity (that is in bloom size and blooming period across the colours). In the right conditions, these plants will start blooming from early spring and continue into autumn. At 25-30cm tall, they are mid-height varieties suitable for growing in the garden as well as in containers. They have comparatively a proportionally smaller spread at only about 18cm. Plants hold 4-5 flowers at the same time; these are semi-doubles about 9cm wide. They are classified as annuals but are good for Zone H2 so these perennials will be fine if overwintered indoors. Seed packets are sold as mixes and include pastel and bright shades in yellows, oranges, pinks, and reds, plus white. 7) G. ‘Landscape’ Developed to be grown by home gardeners in large containers specifically for the purpose of getting florist-grade cut flowers from your patio that will last for up to two weeks in a vase. This series’s plants are propagated only via tissue culture. Plants are quite tall, reaching heights of about 45 centimetres. For the named cultivars (i.e. not the ‘Glorious’ sub-range) the blooming season is comparatively short, running from only July to October. The flip side is that they bear even 10 flowers simultaneously, and they are stunners, being full doubles that are 12 centimetres across. They are among the most tender of Gerberas, good only to Zone H2. ‘Yellowstone’ has a dark eye and rays of light but bright yellow with the smaller, inner rays providing an amber-golden accent. ‘Redwood’ has a dark eye and very saturated deep orange rays with all of them just tipped with yellow. ‘Everglades’ – a bi-colour, has the smaller, inner rays in an intense magenta pink hue and the larger, outer ones in soft, pastel pink. 8) G. ‘Revolution’ Developed to be a pot-grown series of plants, bred for uniformity of bloom time across the range, and for producing florist-class flowers. These dwarf plants grow to only 15-20cm though comparatively, they are proportionately wider at 25-30cm. They are meant for 5-inch pots. ‘Revolution’ However, for dwarf plants, they produce seriously large semi-double flowers measuring 7-10cm. They bloom from early spring into autumn. At a hardiness rating of H3 this series’s plants are considered half-hardy. ‘Revolution’ comprises over 15 named cultivars. ‘Bicolor Red Lemon’ ‘Bicolor Red Lemon’ has a chocolate centre with the rays being a sparkling lemon yellow at the medial ends, producing the effect of a yellow ring, and rose-red outside. ‘Red with Light Eye’ has a yellow centre and near-red petals of a magnetic vermilion-red. ‘Orange with Light Eye’ has a yellow centre with rays of an intense, saturated orange hue. 9) G. ‘Mega Revolution’ Revolution’s big brother and this series is also meant for pot growing. Its plants have the same characteristics as those of ‘Revolution’ with a few differences. They are a little taller at 15-25cm and correspondingly wider, though they are not considered large plants for Gerberas. It is their semi-double blooms at 12cm that are truly huge, and range from 12-15cm. ‘White with Light Eye’ has a greenish-yellow eye and pure white rays. ‘Orange with Light Eye’ is a middle shade of orange yet is amazingly brilliant and saturated. ‘Deep Rose with Light Eye’ is a most unusual and striking colour that can be described only as fuchsia-magenta-rose-red. 10) G. Sakata’s Series ‘Durora’ Back in the 1970s Sakata of Yokohama had developed and marketed the very first dwarf Gerbera series specifically for pot- and container-growing, the now-discontinued ‘Happipot’. Since then they have developed several other series of which the current ones are ‘Majorette’, ‘Durora’, ‘Festival’ and ‘Festival Mini’. All are meant for pots and containers. Each has its own particular strength, such as large blooms and profuse blooming for ‘Festival,’ early blooming and uniformity for ‘Majorette’, and full double flowers and long vase life for ‘Durora’. ‘Majorette’ ‘Festival Mini’ is quite unique because this series has miniature plants – ‘super-dwarfs’ – meant for 3.5-inch pots. They are a mere 15-20cm with corresponding miniature blooms in different shades of yellow, pink, orange, and red. They are classified as annuals. References 1. Gerbera. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331624-2
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Using Comfrey Feed For Tomatoes: The DIY Fertiliser That Can Help Boost Your Yield
IN THIS GUIDE Making Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Using Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes When To Use Diluting Comfrey Solution References Comfrey is a plant commonly cultivated in organic gardens that provides many benefits, both while in active growth, and when harvested and used in various ways. One common way in which comfrey is used is for plant fertility. It can be very useful as a chop-and-drop material or mulch, for adding to a composting system, and for making a liquid plant feed, known as comfrey tea. Comfrey tea is commonly used to provide a boost of nutrients for crops in a garden. Since comfrey is a good dynamic accumulator of key plant nutrients, especially potassium, it can be especially useful for fruiting plants, like tomatoes.1 Using comfrey tea for tomatoes is a great way to improve your tomato harvest and will help to grow strong and healthy plants which deliver a high yield of fruits. The plants require potassium in particular during the reproductive stages of their lifecycle, while they are flowering and setting fruit. Making Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Comfrey can be grown in a range of settings, and is a hardy and resilient plant. Plant it once and it will grow year after year. Just make sure that you choose the right location for planting, as you won’t be able to get rid of it easily once it establishes itself in an area. Once you have some comfrey growing in your garden: Chop up the leaves, stems and flowers into small pieces. Pack these tightly into a container with a lid. Cover the material with water, place something on top to hold the leaves down, and put the lid on your container. Wait for the material to break down. After 4-6 weeks, you will have a stinky slurry that you can dilute and use when watering your tomato plants. Using Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Comfrey is particularly beneficial for tomatoes, as comfrey tea is very similar in nutrient profile to the commercial tomato fertilisers that you can buy. Luckily, you can make it yourself for free and it is a great organic choice. When To Use Usually, you can harvest comfrey and make your first batch of comfrey tea in June, around the same time that you plant out your tomato plants. You can use it to water the tomatoes as soon as it is ready, repeating every two weeks or so. You can also make a second batch towards the end of the summer, once the comfrey has regrown, and use it to give a further boost to the tomatoes during their peak fruiting season. Diluting Comfrey Solution The slurry mix of rotted down comfrey will need to be diluted before it can be used on your tomato plants. Add 1 part of this slurry mix to 10 parts water to make a comfrey tea. Then fill a watering can 1/3 full of this comfrey tea and 2/3 full of water, and pour this around the base of the tomato plant – trying to avoid wetting the foliage, flowers or fruit. This is a relatively weak solution but should be sufficient to give the tomato plants the boost they need to fruit well. If the plants are showing signs of nutrient deficiency you may wish to increase the proportion of comfrey tea you use. “When using for the first time, start with a very weak mix and check plants for any ill effects that may look like burning, as too strong a mix can do more harm than good” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Instructor and Consultant. “If all is well after testing a weak mix you can creep up to 1/3 comfrey tea to 2/3 water, just keep checking the plants for burning as it can happen that mixes come out too strong.” References 1. Role of Potassium in Tomato Production. (2018, May 23). Yara United States. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/tomato/role-of-potassium/
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Follow These Guidelines To Harvest Comfrey For Culinary Uses Or As Garden Mulch
IN THIS GUIDE Harvesting For Culinary Use Harvesting For Mulch & Compost References Comfrey can be very useful in a huge range of different ways, providing a range of yield for your home or for use in your garden. Harvesting comfrey, whatever you are using it for, could not be easier, and once harvested, it will readily regrow. However, how exactly you harvest comfrey will depend on how much you are growing and what you are using it for. Harvesting For Culinary Use Comfrey can provide edible uses, and some people eat the very young leaves in moderation, raw or cooked, and the young shoots are occasionally used as an asparagus substitute.1 If harvesting comfrey leaves for edible uses, you can simply cut or pull off leaves as they are required. If you plan on eating the young leaves, harvest these as early in spring as possible, before the leaves get very hairy and before flowering stalks form. “Personally, I would not advocate eating comfrey and strongly encourage you to research its culinary use thoroughly if you are considering it,” adds Dan Ori, a Horticulturist. “I always wear gloves when handling comfrey and encourage you to do the same.” Harvesting For Mulch & Compost Comfrey may also be harvested for use in garden fertilisers. You can chop and drop comfrey plants where they grow, cutting them off near the base and letting the plant material fall to the ground to break down and feed the soil and nearby plants. Or, you can also cut back the plants and remove the material to redistribute the nutrients it contains to other parts of the garden. Some ways to do this include using it as a mulch in vegetable beds, spreading it around trees or other perennials, composting the material, or making a liquid plant feed. You can either cut off the whole of the plant down to the ground, or take portions – leaving some to remain in flower for bees and other insects in your garden. To cut back comfrey and make use of the abundant biomass for plant fertility, you can use garden shears, a scythe, or even mow larger areas of comfrey to obtain the material. The approach you take will obviously depend on the size of the area and the number of plants that need to be harvested, and also where the plants are growing. Typically, you can harvest comfrey by chopping most of the plants down close to the ground in late June. The plants then regrow and can be harvested again towards the end of the summer or in early autumn. Always make sure to leave some comfrey standing to continue to benefit the wildlife in your garden which will allow it to die back naturally at the end of the year. References 1. Comfrey, Slightly Toxic but Holds So Many Health Benefits. (2019, May 15). Eat the Planet. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://eattheplanet.org/comfrey-slightly-toxic-but-holds-so-many-health-benefits/
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How To Grow Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker Plant) For Fiery Flowering Spires In Summer
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Commonly Grown Varieties How To Grow Kniphofia Kniphofia Plant Care Companion Planting References Kniphofia, also known as ‘Red Hot Poker’, are dramatic and exotic-looking plants that are surprisingly easy to grow in many UK gardens. These plants are well known and easily recognised because of their stunning bottlebrush-shaped flowering spires, which come in a wide range of fiery colours, not only oranges and russets and reds, but also yellows, lime greens and more. They have a long flowering season and so can be a great value addition to your garden. Overview Botanical Name Kniphofia Common Name(s) Red Hot Poker Plant Plant Type Perennial Native Area Africa Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Dense upright racemes of tubular flowers in a range of hues When To Plant March, April, May, June Harvesting Months June, July, August When To Prune March Kniphofia is a genus of flowering perennials in the Asphodelaceae plant family.1 They are native to Africa but are commonly grown in many gardens around the globe.2 As well as being referred to as red hot pokers for their fiery flowering spires, they are also sometimes referred to as ‘poker plants’ or ‘torch lilies’. Several species of Kniphofia are commonly cultivated in gardens, including K. thomsonii, K. rooperi, K. northiae and K galipinii, and there are also many other cultivars and hybrids. Commonly Grown Varieties Some commonly grown and highly regarded Kniphofia, which have received Awards of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, include: ‘Barton Fever’ ‘Bees’ Sunset’ ‘Brimstone’ ‘Buttercup’ ‘Coral Flame’ ‘Fiery Fred’ ‘Incandescence’ ‘Innocence’ ‘Jonathan’ ‘Moonshine’ ‘Nobilis’ ‘Penny Rockets’ ‘Primrose Upward’ ‘Rich Echoes’ ‘Royal Standard’ ‘Safranvogel’ ‘Samuel’s Sensation’ ‘Sunningdale Yellow’ ‘Tawny King’ ‘Timothy’ ‘Toffee Nosed’ ‘Wrexham Buttercup’ How To Grow Kniphofia Growing From Seed Kniphofia cultivars will not usually come true from seeds collected from the flowers as some are sterile, so growing from seed is not the recommended means of propagation.3 Instead, existing plants can be propagated by division, which is undertaken in the spring, which we’ll talk about a little more later in this guide. Young Kniphofia plants are also widely available for sale from garden centres and plant nurseries. When And Where To Plant The best time to plant out red hot pokers is in the spring. Exactly which month you plant will depend to an extent on where you live and the conditions to be found there. Planting a little later can be better in more northern areas, while planting a little earlier may be better in the south. Red hot pokers work well in mixed perennial beds or borders. However, it is important to consider their environmental needs and to choose a planting location carefully. Temperature & Humidity Red hot pokers are H5 hardy and will make it through the winter happily across most of the UK, even during extremely harsh winters. This plant can cope with temperatures down to at least -10°C over the winter months. In summer, it will require some warmth to flower well, but can thrive even in exposed locations. Sunlight Kniphofia should be grown in full sun. Though they can cope with partial shade, flowering will be significantly reduced if the plants don’t get full sun. A south-facing aspect is ideal. Soil Requirements Red hot pokers will absolutely love a sandy soil enriched with plenty of organic matter, but they will do well in any deep, moist but well-draining soil which has an acidic or neutral pH. When planting in soils which are not particularly free draining, it can be beneficial to add a handful of grit to the base of the planting hole to aid in drainage. Kniphofia can also be grown in containers, but care should be taken to choose a container and growing medium which allows for sufficient moisture retention while allowing excess water to drain away freely. Kniphofia Plant Care When placed in a position where it is comfortable, this is an easy plant to care for and should remain in your garden happily over a number of years. Watering Root rot is an issue which can commonly affect kniphofias when the conditions are not sufficiently free draining and where overwatering has occurred. To avoid this, water modestly during prolonged dry spells, more frequently when growing in containers. However, make sure that you do not overdo it and that excess water should drain away freely. Feeding These are not plants which will usually require additional feeding. However, if growth or flowering is poor when growing in containers, it may be beneficial to add an organic, balanced, slow-release fertiliser in spring. Overwintering Some protection against excessive winter wet may be required over the first couple of growing seasons in areas where winter rainfall is high. Pruning Some gardeners will prune back the flower heads after flowering, but it is best in a wildlife-friendly garden to leave these in place until spring, to give wildlife habitat for winter protection. Leaving the dead stems in place until around March can also provide a little more protection against winter wet. Propagation As mentioned above, propagation for named cultivars cannot be achieved via sowing seeds, but is achieved easily by means of the division of mature plants. Division is undertaken in the spring and will not only provide new plants to place elsewhere in your garden, but will also avoid issues with congestion as clumps become established. Common Problems Some protection may be required to protect the plants against slugs and snails which munch on new growth in the spring. Excessive watering and water-logging are the most common issues and can lead to fungal root rot. This is remedied by avoiding overwatering, ensuring good drainage, and protecting plants from extreme winter wet. Otherwise, these are relatively hassle-free plants to grow. Companion Planting Red hot pokers look wonderful alongside other fiery-hued plants which like similarly sunny and moist yet free-draining growing conditions, or alongside purple-hued plants as they provide a striking contrast. For example, try placing red hot pokers alongside Asters, Cosmos, Daylilies, Gaillardia, Helenium, Heliopsis, Liatris, Rudbeckia, or Salvias. Ornamental grasses can also work very well alongside red hot pokers and other flowering perennials in a bed or border. “Some of the species, such as K. caulescens, have attractive foliage when not in flower, whilst others are messier,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Keep in mind what you want to combine your kniphofia with and consider what it will look like when not in flower. “All species and cultivars provide an exotic touch and vertical accent from mid-late summer, which I love.” References 1. Pokers (Genus Kniphofia). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/56036-Kniphofia 2. Kniphofia uvaria. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=i310 3. Kniphofia – red-hot pokers. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/articles/misc/kniphofia
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Dahlia Nurseries Share These Favourite Varieties For Dazzling Colours And Shapes
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties 1) D. ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ 2) D. ‘Café au Lait’ 3) D. ‘Totally Tangerine’ 4) D. ‘Cornel Brons’ 5) D. ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ 6) D. ‘Arabian Night’ 7) D. ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ 8) D. ‘David Howard’ 9) D. ‘Honka Rose’ 10) D. ‘Purple Gem’ 11) D. ‘Black Jack’ 12) D. ‘Boom Boom White’ 13) D. ‘Bishop Of York’ 14) D. ‘Labyrinth’ 15) D. ‘Thomas A. Edison’ 16) D. ’Linda’s Baby’ 17) D. ‘Alfred Grille’ References Dahlias are a genus of tuberous perennials native to Mexico that can grow well here in the United Kingdom if given a sunny and sheltered spot.1 “Dahlias that come towards the end of the summer are just wonderful, although I rarely succeed in growing them myself, so I really appreciate them in other gardens,” shares Floral Artist Lora Avedian. A popular plant and widely grown here in the United Kingdom that has seen a resurgence over the past few years and for good reason, dahlias are available in a dazzling array of colours, sizes and shapes and can flower for months on end. “Dahlias can be incorporated for some late summer colour explosions into many gardens, big or small,” shares Head Gardener of a private gardens in Somerset, Elliott Beveridge. Easy to grow and care for, there are even some that are loved by pollinators and will bring bees, butterflies and hoverflies into the garden. Expert-Chosen Varieties Before we share our 17 favourites, dahlia experts Jack Gott (JRG Dahlias), Elaine Patullo (Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery), and David Hall (Halls of Heddon) introduce a few of their favourite dahlia varieties. ‘Collarette’ ‘Hartenaas’ “Collarettes are my favourites to grow for pollinators,” says Elaine. Jack agrees, putting his love for these dahlias down to their ability to attract the bees and butterflies. Water Lily ‘Pam Howden’ Another favourite from JRG Dahlias, Jack has won medals for his displays at the National Dahlia Society shows and other championships with his water lily dahlias. ‘Dinner Plate’ ‘Dinner Plate’ Elaine loves the dinner plate varieties because of their show-stopping flowers and size. ‘Hadrian’s’ ‘Hadrian’s Delight’ “Any of the open-centred Hadrian’s varieties, such as H. Midnight, H. Bubblegum, H. Sunset, are a favourite of mine,” says David, from Halls of Heddon. “This range of single varieties are home raised and are very free flowering, making them ideal for pots or the herbaceous border. “Most have striking dark, almost black foliage which is an additional beneficial feature.” ‘Normandie’ ‘Normandie Memories’ “I also enjoy growing and showing the fimbriated dahlias, such as ‘Normandie Frills’ and ‘Normandie Wedding Day’,” David shares. “These have flowers up to 8 inches across when grown well, and the finely cut petal tips of these ‘spiky’ cactus dahlias gives them a very lacy appearance. “They are becoming very popular and, as a national judge, it is good to see more of these appearing on the show bench, though their use and attractiveness has a far broader appeal.” ‘Doris Day’ ‘Doris Day’ “‘Doris Day’ is one of my favourites and one I remember from youth,” says David. “It’s a very free and early-flowering dahlia, with red, small, cactus blooms growing to about 4 inches, making it a good variety for garden or pots.” One collection I would recommend looking at is the Maggiore collection, as the exotic blooms burst into layers of petals reminiscent of firework displays and are my go-to for brightening up a tired summer border or collection of containers,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “They typically have a height of 60cm and spread 30cm, making the stems a useful length for small vases or bouquets. “The Maggiore collection are normally treated as annuals and sold as potted plants in early summer, but if you can protect them from frost in something like a greenhouse for the first autumn & winter, they should start to develop small tubers that could be lifted or protected in the second autumn. “If I had to choose one from the collection it would be Dahlia ‘LaBella Maggiore Purple’, although it is not particularly purple and is more of a rich red with a purple tint that really pops.” Hopefully, these choices have prepared you for the larger list I have cultivated for you below. Here are 17 popular types of dahlias chosen by our editors which can be grown in the UK, including some very special RHS AGM recipients. All of these varieties need full sun in a sheltered spot and are relatively unfussy regarding their soil requirements: 1) D. ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread D. ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ is a stunning semi-double dahlia that the bees will swarm over with delight. With light pink and orange flowers and purple-green foliage, it is most at home in a bed or a border. Growing up to 70cm in height and spread, this variety will produce an abundance of blooms from July until the first frosts if deadheaded regularly throughout the growing season. 2) D. ‘Café au Lait’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Café au Lait’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread One of the most widely grown, to the point that some say it’s overused. However, it is loved for a reason. D. ‘Café au Lait’ produces the most beautiful pink–cream blush flowers up to 20cm in diameter on tall stems above bright green foliage. Wonderful as a cut flower with a long vase life, it can grow up to 1.5m tall, so is perfect for the middle or the back of a border. As a relatively tall dahlia, it will need a sheltered spot and staking for support. 3) D. ‘Totally Tangerine’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Totally Tangerine’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread If space is an issue ‘Totally Tangerine’ grows well in a large pot or container with an eventual size of up to 1m high. An anemone-type dahlia, it is great for pollinators and produces a succession of delicate pink and orange blooms. It works great when used as a cut flower or to bring some colour to a courtyard or patio, flowering from July through to October. 4) D. ‘Cornel Brons’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Cornel Brons’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Bronze, orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread For a burst of colour in a more subtle way, ‘Cornel Brons’ is a stunning variety to grow. A ball-type dahlia, it displays perfectly arranged dusky apricot-coloured petals that will provide an elegant impact in any garden or vase. Growing to a hight of 1.2m with a 70cm wide spread, it is best suited to a bed or a border and prefers a sunny and sheltered spot as with most other dahlias. 5) D. ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread One of the Bishops series with dark foliage and prolific single flowers that are loved by pollinators, ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ produces sumptuous magenta-red flowers which contrast effectively against its dark purple leaves. Growing up to 1m in height, it grows well in either a container or a border and will require support. 6) D. ‘Arabian Night’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Arabian Night’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread With its deep and dark red flowers, ‘Arabian Night’ can appear almost black in certain conditions and add another dimension to a garden. A decorative–type, it displays large and sumptuous double flowers up to 10cm in diameter which contrast against its green foliage. As a tall dahlia, it will look great when grown in a border or a container, but it will need staking. 7) D. ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another compact dahlia perfect for growing in containers or pots, or for the front of a border, is ‘Gallery Rembrandt’. Although small, it still produces a long-lasting burst of colour with its large double flower heads up to 9cm in diameter in shades of cream and bright pink. It is less hardy than other dahlias and so requires some protection over winter, growing best in a south-facing and sheltered spot. 8) D. ‘David Howard’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘David Howard’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and bronze FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread For a real burst of colour to add to the garden ‘David Howard’ is hard to beat. A decorative variety that displays perfect flower heads in gold and amber which contrast beautifully against its dark foliage. “A few varieties have very dark, almost black leaves which add contrast to a mixed border,” says June Nash from the National Dahlia Society. “David Howard is one of my favourites of these dahlias.” Growing to around 70cm in height and spread, it is one for the borders or a container and benefits from staking early on in the growing season. 9) D. ‘Honka Rose’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Honka Rose’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink, white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This pollinator-friendly dahlia is slightly unusual with its striking star-shaped flowers and vibrant pink petals which curl inwards. It is prized as a cut flower given its long vase life and will need staking as it can grow to an eventual 1m tall. As with all dahlias, with regular deadheading, this variety will provide regular blooms from mid-summer until the start of winter. June Nash recommends ‘Honka Fragile’ if you are looking for something more subtle that is similar to this flower: “‘Honka Fragile’ is a delicate dahlia that is white, edged with pink.” 10) D. ‘Purple Gem’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Purple Grem’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This cactus–type dahlia with its spiky narrow petals in hues of bright pink and purple will fit in with a number of colour schemes. A favourite amongst cut flower gardeners, it looks spectacular in a vase. It is a tall variety reaching heights of up to 1.2m, so will require staking for additional support. 11) D. ‘Black Jack’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Black Jack’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Red and black FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread A well-known decorative dahlia introduced almost 20 years ago, ‘Black Jack’ truly is a show stopper. With its deep dark red flower heads up to 25cm across that can appear almost black, this dahlia really adds impact to a border. One of the tallest dahlias, ‘Black Jack’ can grow to 1.5m tall, so it is definitely best suited for the back of a bed and will need staking to be kept out of the prevailing winds. 12) D. ‘Boom Boom White’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Boom Boom White’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Dahlias don’t just come in bright and vivid colours, as cool and classic whites are also available. ‘Boom Boom White’ is a ball-type dahlia with white petals and a hint of lemon that will bring an elegant touch to any bed or border. Its flower heads can reach an impressive 15cm in diameter which seem to gently float on its slender habit and green foliage. This dahlia does equally well when grown in either a container or directly in the ground. 13) D. ‘Bishop Of York’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Bishop Of York’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Unlike most other colours, there are not many yellow dahlias to choose from. However, if you are searching for a yellow dahlia, ‘Bishop of York’ is a great variety to try. With its bright yellow petals and an orange centre it certainly provides a burst of cheerful colour. As a single variety, it will attract pollinators into the garden and will provide a valuable late source of nectar as it flowers well into the autumn. 14) D. ‘Labyrinth’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Labyrinth’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another of the varieties with huge flower heads is ‘Labyrinth’. With its flamboyant 20cm diameter pink and orange blooms, it is no wonder it is a florist’s favourite. Growing on bright green foliage, ‘Labyrinth’ stands out when planted in front of shrubs with dark foliage and can grow to 1m in height. As it’s a relatively tall dahlia, it will need staking and regular deadheading to keep it looking its best. 15) D. ‘Thomas A. Edison’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Thomas A. Edison’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Purple and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A long-standing favourite has to be ‘Thomas A. Edison’. First introduced in the U.S. in 1929, it has since been grown worldwide for years and for good reason. Producing deep magenta flowers which fade slightly towards the outer edges and up to 20cm across, it looks stunning wherever it is planted. A decorative variety, it goes well with many different colour schemes, is often grown as a cut flower and will need staking due to its eventual height. 16) D. ’Linda’s Baby’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Linda’s Baby’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread For the softest pink with a touch of peach, look no further than ‘Linda’s Baby’. It’s a pompom variety that displays exquisite small round flowers with layers of perfect petals. With regular deadheading, this dahlia will bloom from summer until the first frosts and provide impact either in a border, container or vase. 17) D. ‘Alfred Grille’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Alfred Grille’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread For an unusual dahlia that is certain to become a talking point, ‘Alfred Grille’ looks almost otherworldly. A semi-cactus variety, it produces slightly spiky pink, orange and yellow petals that curl forwards. These ornate flowers will provide a burst of colour where needed and contrast well against a green backdrop of foliage. As with other cultivars, this dahlia prefers full sun and will need staking with a final plant size of up to 1m. References 1. Research on dahlia, the national flower of Mexico. (n.d.). International Society for Horticultural Science. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1288_15
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Follow These 3 Steps For Your Alstroemeria Before Winter To Help Them Survive
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Mulch Young Alstroemeria Growing In The Ground 2) Ensure Appropriate Growing Conditions For Mature Plants 3) Move Container-Grown Alstroemerias To A Frost-Free Location References Alstroemerias bear beautiful lily-like flowers over the summer months, sometimes well into autumn. These flowering perennials may look rather exotic, and be native to South America, but they can often be very happy in UK gardens. Most are hardy plants, with a hardiness rating of H4, but to keep them looking good, you will need to provide them with appropriate winter care. Here are the basic things you need to do to keep Alstroemeria alive over the winter months and ensure excellent flowering displays over a number of years: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mulch, sheltered spot or greenhouse for container-grown plants 1) Mulch Young Alstroemeria Growing In The Ground While most Alstroemerias can survive winter temperatures as low as -10°C, they may not always be hardy enough to overwinter across all of the UK. In a particularly cold winter, or in chillier or more exposed locations, the tuberous roots can be damaged by the cold. Alstroemerias are more vulnerable during their first couple of seasons when the root systems are somewhat less well established and when roots will not have delved as deeply. To protect young plants over winter when they are growing in the ground, you should layer mulch thickly around the crowds and over the roots to stave off the frost and freeze. A mulched bark, a thick layer of autumn leaves, or another insulating mulch like straw or sheep’s wool could be ideal. A thick organic mulch will not only stave off the cold, but can also help to reduce the chances of waterlogging, and improve the structure of the soil over time. Winter wet can be as much of a danger for these plants, which like free-draining conditions, as the cold.1 2) Ensure Appropriate Growing Conditions For Mature Plants More mature Alstroemerias growing in the ground will usually not need any protection to make it through the winter months unscathed. But remember, it is important that Alstroemerias are placed in a suitable spot for them to overwinter successfully and burst back into new growth in spring. Before winter, make sure that you analyse the conditions in which mature Alstroemerias are growing. Make sure that they are not growing in an excessively cold area such as a frost pocket or a very exposed location. And, most crucially, make sure that the soil in which they are growing drains freely, and that the roots will not sit in damp and waterlogged conditions. High winter rainfall can cause problems where the soil does not allow that water to drain away relatively quickly. 3) Move Container-Grown Alstroemerias To A Frost-Free Location Unlike Alstroemerias growing in the ground, container-grown plants will not usually be able to remain outdoors over the winter months. One problem is that roots in a container are not protected from the cold by the mass of soil around them. They are more exposed to cold temperatures than roots within the soil in the ground. Another issue is that containers can more easily become waterlogged during periods of higher winter precipitation, meaning the roots may be more prone to rotting.2 For these reasons, Alstroemerias grown in pots should be moved into a frost-free location for the winter months. An unheated greenhouse or cool porch space is ideal. If such as space is not available, you may get away with placing pots on their sides once the plants become dormant, and placing them in a sheltered spot outdoors. “I always make a point of trying to learn the microclimate of a garden – the cooler, shadier spots in summer, and warmer, sheltered spots in winter, for example,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “If there is a part of the garden that is less frost prone (in the lee of a wall perhaps, or under a tree or large shrub), then pots might successfully be overwintered in that location.” You might insulate the container to keep the roots safe from hard freezes. But if you can, moving container-grown Alstroemerias undercover for winter is generally the approach which will yield the best results. References 1. Wet soils: plants for. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/for-places/wet-soils 2. Waterlogging and flooding. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/waterlogging-flooding
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