Growing
Feeding Dahlias: Add Organic Matter During Flowering And Use A Potassium-Rich Feed
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Provide Healthy & Fertile Soil 2) Add Organic Matter During Flowering 3) Use A Potassium-Rich Feed Dahlias have fairly high nutrient requirements and, like other flowering plants, require plenty of potassium to bloom well. In order to meet these flowering plants’ nutritional needs, feeding this plant with a potassium-rich feed is beneficial, as David Hall, manager and director of Halls of Heddon, explains: “Dahlias respond well to regular feeding – but don’t overdo it. A high nitrogen feed can be used in the early stages, then a balanced feed is best after a few weeks. “As soon as the buds appear, a tomato feed or a fertiliser high in potash should be used. This will help with stem strength and flower colour.” However, it is also important to consider the environment these plants are growing in. Feeding can be optimised by following these 3 key rules: Mulch well with homemade compost or well-rotted manure upon planting and replenish this mulch every year in spring. Consider mulching additionally in summer with a mulch of leaves from dynamic accumulator plants that contain plenty of potassium. During the flowering period, feed once a fortnight with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed. A feed suited to tomatoes such as a comfrey liquid feed will also suit dahlias well. Feed once a week if growing in containers. Here’s more information on the three key steps to take in an organic garden when caring for your dahlias. 1) Provide Healthy & Fertile Soil Providing for any plant’s nutritional needs always comes back to the soil. “I plant Dahlias in compost or soil I have added granular controlled orcontinuous release fertiliser to,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “If you use a 6 month controlled release product like Miracle-Gro all purpose continuous release plant food, that may be all that is required for outdoor planted Dahlias that will be dug up in autumn. “If you use an organic granular controlled release product like Miracle-Gro Performance Organics all-purpose, after 3 months I would apply a top-dressing of granular feed mixed with some fresh compost.” Mulching around your plants and replenishing this mulch each spring helps to preserve a healthy soil biome, with plenty of nutrients and the micro-organisms and other soil life we need within the system. When planting dahlias you should spread a layer of homemade compost, leaf mould, or well-rotted manure around your plants. This material will help to provide the key nutrients of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as many other essential plant nutrients, and will release these slowly over time. The mulch will also help conserve soil moisture, and suppress weed growth to a degree, helping dahlias thrive by reducing competition around them. 2) Add Organic Matter During Flowering As dahlias begin to flower, they will have the need for potassium to flower well. One option to consider to make sure that there is sufficient potassium in the soil around your dahlias is to add an additional layer of mulch using leaves from dynamic accumulators of this nutrient. Chenopodium album, Amaranthus, borage and comfrey are some plants that can be effective in gathering potassium. When dropped on the soil around dahlias, the leaves of these plants can return these nutrients to the soil and help to feed your plants. 3) Use A Potassium-Rich Feed To give your dahlias a speedy boost of potassium and other nutrients, you can also – during the flowering period – feed your plants with a potassium-rich organic, liquid plant feed. A feed suited to tomatoes will also suit dahlias well says Elaine Patullo from Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery: “A good quality feed is essential. Tomato feed can be used initially, and then liquid seaweed can assist with keeping the plants flowering all season.” A comfrey tea is one good organic option to consider and you can also make liquid plant feeds using other plants mentioned above. Through mulching and liquid feeds, you can make sure that your dahlias continue to flower well and bloom beautifully each year. “If I judge it necessary to further boost flowering, I can add liquid feeds high in potassium like tomato feed,” shares Dan. “My advice would be to pay a few pounds more for a tomato feed with seaweed extract, as this has numerous plant health benefits, including addressing any nutrient deficiencies that may be causing discolouration in leaves.”
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Dianthus Feeding And Watering Guidelines: Make Sure To Facilitate Very Good Drainage
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Feeding Dianthus, the Flower of the Greek god Zeus, is, in fact, the name of a genus that includes three super-popular flowering plants: Carnations, Pinks, and Sweet Williams. Dianthus, as a genus, is a little too often typecast and sometimes mischaracterised as being suited best for cottage gardens. To correct the record, though Sweet Williams may well be cottage garden mainstays, we submit that carnations are ‘courtyard garden classics’. Carnation flowers with their pastel, genteel shades, refined looks, and subtle charms are well-suited for formal gardens as well, with that restrained, conservative glaucous foliage putting the final touches on the ‘formal’ dress code. Whether it’s ruffled carnations, fringed pinks or dainty Sweet Williams that are most to your taste, you will get the best out of your plants if you follow these watering and feeding guidelines. Watering Where watering Dianthus is concerned, one had better start with soil and drainage. All types of Dianthus are quite susceptible to root rot, crown rot, and stem rot (yes, all three) so soil must drain very well. To facilitate very good drainage – besides other factors – soil should not be heavy or clayey; at the same time, be mindful that Dianthus need a soil pH level from neutral to slightly alkaline. Be sure that containers and pots have drainage holes. As a general rule, assuming there is no rain and you’re enjoying ‘normal’ weather, give open-ground Dianthus an inch of water per week. In hot weather water them twice a week. Do not keep the soil consistently moist – let the soil just dry out between waterings. This is especially important in the winter when you should also decrease the amount and frequency of watering. To water by feel, allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 3-4cm before watering again. In hot weather do monitor soil moisture levels and especially so for containerised Dianthus plants. If the container’s soil does not include moisture-retentive media, it will dry out very soon in high heat. It would be well to water at soil level though this is not so critical for Dianthus as for some other plants. However, virtually all flowering plants are best watered by mid-morning. Feeding Though Dianthus are not heavy feeders and perform perfectly well without fertilising, they do require rich, fertile soil – that is a ‘non-negotiable’. When planting Dianthus of any kind, fork over the soil to a depth of about 25cm and amend with a generous quantity of organic compost or humus – that will do for ‘fertiliser’. You may amend the soil with well-rotted manure too but do not use chicken manure for Dianthus as this will just encourage leafy growth rather than flowers. (And while you’re amending the soil, you could also look into drainage, and add grit, sand, or perlite, as appropriate.) Feeding Dianthus is an ‘extra’ and if you can do it, all the better, as this will encourage more flowering throughout the season. What with the thousands of cultivars of carnations, pinks, and Sweet Williams, different groupings have slightly different ‘feeding preferences,’ so to speak. That said, you can’t go wrong feeding any Dianthus by either: Applying once in early spring and again in late summer a controlled-release or slow-release balanced fertiliser like Miracle-Gro Shake ’n’ Feed All Purpose Continuous Release or Osmocote Controlled Release Plant Food, or, Feeding every few weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser like Miracle-Gro All Purpose or a special-purpose formula such as Grow-More’s 3-6-6 Flower and Bloom. We suggest that for Dianthus you apply fertiliser at 70-80% of the proportion or quantity indicated in the manufacturer’s directions.
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8 Rhubarb Varieties And Their Distinctive Characteristics (With Dan Ori's Favourite)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) ‘Timperley Early’ 2) ‘Victoria’ 3) ‘The Sutton’ 4) ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ 5) ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ 6) ‘Canada Red’ 7) ‘Livingstone’ 8) ‘Champagne’ References As a reliable performer which can withstand the Great British winter with ease and returns each year without fail, it’s unsurprising that rhubarb is an increasingly popular choice in vegetable patches across the country. Although ostensibly a vegetable, it’s invariably incorporated into culinary dishes in the form of a fruit, adding sweetness and tartness to pies, bakes, sauces, jams and other desserts. Of course, we’re all familiar with Maris Pipers, King Edwards and Yukon Golds, but it’s less common for people to differentiate between varieties of rhubarb. Grandad’s Favourite Speaking honestly, that’s because there’s a subtler distinction in the taste and texture of different rhubarb types. Having said that, there are still discrepancies between the varieties, but these mostly revolve around the colour of the plant’s stalks and the optimal harvesting time of the cultivar. Here are eight of our favourites for you to choose from the next time you’re looking to grow some rhubarb in your own back garden. 1) ‘Timperley Early’ First sold commercially in 1945, ‘Timperley Early’ is – as the name might suggest – one of the earliest varieties of rhubarb available, even without forcing.1 It can be harvested in early- to mid-April, and though it only produces medium yields, it’s a perennially popular choice because of the speediness of its growth. The colour is a strong red, though it will fade to green in warmer climes. Stalks are longer and thinner than some other options on this list, while the taste of the rhubarb is especially sweet. As such, you may want to moderate the amount of sugar you add to a recipe when using Timperley Early rhubarb. 2) ‘Victoria’ First introduced in 1837, this is one of the oldest rhubarb varieties on the market – and it’s still going strong due to its myriad attractive qualities.2 It is a dependable grower that produces heavy yields, while its strong stalks are a deep red in colour fading to green further towards the leaves and it holds an exquisite flavour. The taste is slightly more bitter than others on the list, but it remains a favourite in Scotland where it is often used to make jams, marmalades and other preserves. It will be ready to harvest slightly later in the season (think mid- to late-May) unless forced, though it does lend itself well to those who prefer to engage in that practice. 3) ‘The Sutton’ Dating back to 1895, ‘The Sutton’ is hailed as having one of the best flavours of any rhubarb anywhere in the world.3 For that reason, it’s remained supremely popular for over one-and-a-quarter centuries and is freely available from garden centres and rhubarb nurseries up and down the country. Another string to its bow is the fact that ‘The Sutton’ can invariably be relied upon to produce a strong yield of stems of medium thickness, even if they do have a tendency to grow at an angle and can come in a spectrum of colours. A late bloomer compared to others, ‘The Sutton’ is ready for harvesting between mid-May and early-June. 4) ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ As the name suggests, ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ is immediately recognisable from the arrow shape of its foliage. Developed in England during the 1960s, it’s a more recent addition to the rhubarb canon but one that’s no less popular for the recency of its arrival.4 In fact, many experts regard ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ as the premium choice when it comes to cultivating rhubarb in a private garden. That’s because it delivers strong and long stems which hold their colour longer than most and produce a delicious taste bursting with sweetness. A supreme all-round performer. 5) ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ Another candidate for the position of strongest all-rounder, ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ is favoured for its impressive flavour and extended harvesting time. When most species have accumulated too much oxalic acid to make their stems palatable, this plucky individual is still good to eat well into autumn. Its soft pink and green stem colouring puts some people off, but the sweetness of its flavour and the longevity of its picking season more than make up for those drawbacks in our opinion. We’re not alone, either; ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ is a perpetual favourite with amateur gardeners around the country. 6) ‘Canada Red’ Instantly identifiable by the brightness of its blood-red stalks, ‘Canada Red’ carries a particularly sweet taste that means you won’t require quite so much sugar in your recipe. What’s more, the pleasing contrast of the lush green foliage against the crimson stalks enhances the aesthetic appeal of your garden, too. The plant generally grows up to about a metre or more in height and should produce harvestable stems for about five years before its powers will wane. It can be harvested anytime between April and June, depending upon the specific plant in question and the conditions in your part of the UK. 7) ‘Livingstone’ This modern cultivar was bred in Britain with one explicit purpose – eliminating the summer dormancy to achieve a double harvest! For those who really love their rhubarb, then, it’s an excellent option, since it will allow you to enjoy the fruits of your labour once in spring and then again in autumn. The stems themselves are full-bodied and reach around 60cm in length, while their succulent taste and stringless texture complete the attractive package. However, you may have to wait up to two years after planting to reap your first harvest, depending on the maturity of the root ball at the outset. “I force my Rhubarb ‘Livingstone’ on rotation so each plant has a two-year rest,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “The beauty of forcing some of your plants is you have an early tender harvest, a spring harvest and an autumn harvest of the same variety in one year.” 8) ‘Champagne’ Available to be harvested from April onwards, ‘Champagne’ is one of the earliest rhubarb varieties out there. Its stems offer up a beautiful colour whenever they’re picked, but you can encourage a gorgeous pink hue by forcing them or allow them to mature for a darker crimson. Slender in girth and medium-sized in length, they’re often regarded as one of the best rhubarb types for forcing and indeed, one of the best to grow from a general standpoint. Easy to grow and reliable to return with the same fruitful output each year. “When I am asked by someone who has never grown Rhubarb before what variety to pick, I recommend ‘Champagne’ due to its all-around performance and early harvest,” Dan says. “Currently, ‘Champagne’ is my favourite forced variety, with the trick being to remove the forcing pot two weeks before harvest.” References 1. Rhubarb “Timperley Early.” (n.d.). Burncoose Nurseries. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pl_id=3700 2. Rhubarb, rhubarb: why Victoria still reigns supreme. (2010, March 25). The Irish Times. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/homes-and-property/gardens/rhubarb-rhubarb-why-victoria-still-reigns-supreme-1.643694 3. The Sutton. (2019, March 13). Brandy Carr Nurseries. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://brandycarrnurseries.co.uk/product/the-sutton/ 4. Stockbridge Arrow. (2022, April 29). Brandy Carr Nurseries. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://brandycarrnurseries.co.uk/product/stockbridge-arrow/
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Some Experts Advise Pulling Rhubarb Stems From The Ground (Rather Than Cutting Them)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Start Harvesting Rhubarb When To Harvest Forced Rhubarb When To Start Harvesting Non-Forced Rhubarb How Long Can You Harvest Rhubarb For? How Much Can You Harvest From One Rhubarb Plant? How To Harvest Rhubarb Rhubarb is a great perennial crop to grow in your garden – it will thrive in a sunny location, with moist yet well-drained soil. These are generally low-maintenance plants and, when grown in the right spot, will require little attention and care. The main job each year, once plants are established, will be harvesting your crop. Here’s what you need to know about harvesting rhubarb: Don’t harvest the first year after planting, and harvest only a little in the second year. Consider forcing rhubarb for an earlier yield, beginning in winter. Harvest non-forced rhubarb from March – July. Stop harvesting rhubarb before summer. Once mature, you can take up to a third, or even potentially half of the stems each spring. If well cared for, a rhubarb plant can live to provide a harvest for over 20 years. Ideally, you should pull stems from the ground rather than cutting or snapping them off. After harvesting, replenish organic mulch around rhubarb plants to help them recover. Find more detail on this below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pruners, scissors or secateurs (optional) When To Harvest March – July When To Start Harvesting Rhubarb If you have only just planted your rhubarb, you should hold off harvesting entirely for the first year. This will allow the plants to establish well before they are weakened by harvesting. In the second year after planting, you can harvest, but should be circumspect in doing so. Harvest just a few stems this year, and allow the plants to fully mature before you get into a regular harvesting routine in subsequent years. The specific time of year when you begin to harvest rhubarb will depend on whether or not you have decided to force your rhubarb plants. When To Harvest Forced Rhubarb Forcing rhubarb simply means covering the rhubarb crown to exclude sunlight. This encourages earlier growth (typically approximately 3 weeks before rhubarb that was not forced) and generates tall pale stems. Forcing rhubarb will bring forward your harvest and some argue that it will improve the flavour of the rhubarb stems. However, it should be noted that forcing rhubarb does affect future growth of the plant to a degree – so this is only something you should consider doing with healthy and mature, fully-established specimens. Also, it is not a good idea to force the same rhubarb plant for successive years, since this may reduce the plant’s vigour too dramatically. If you have decided to force a rhubarb plant to harvest, you will usually do so in late winter, so that you can harvest in spring. You can start the process as soon as November/ December, but it is usually done in January/February. To force rhubarb, around this time, you will simply find something to cover over the growing plant to exclude sunlight. You might use a special rhubarb forcing jar, a plant pot, an old bin, or another reclaimed container. After you have excluded light from the growing stems for 8 weeks, you should be able to remove the cover and harvest. You can harvest the pale long stems when they have grown 20 to 30cm tall, and harvest them earlier than those that have not been forced – perhaps even from as early as January, but typically from early in March. The benefit of this is that the yield arrives during what was historically called the ‘hungry gap’. This was the period when winter stores began to run low, and spring sown crops were not yet ready to harvest. When To Start Harvesting Non-Forced Rhubarb Rhubarb that has not been forced will typically be harvested around 3 weeks to a month later than that which has been forced. Usually, rhubarb stems growing naturally in your garden will be ready to harvest from late March or early April. How Long Can You Harvest Rhubarb For? Typically, rhubarb is harvested only over the spring – until July at the latest. The rhubarb will be perfectly edible and taste good still after this time, but you should generally stop harvesting in July in order to avoid weakening the plant. Hold off harvesting once summer arrives and you can continue to enjoy harvesting from a healthy plant each spring over a number of years. If cared for correctly, these plants can live for 20 years. How Much Can You Harvest From One Rhubarb Plant? Once a rhubarb plant is mature, typically from its third year after planting, you can harvest up to a third, or even half of the stems from each plant. Just make sure that you leave some of the plant to continue on in active growth. That way, it will continue to provide you with a bountiful yield for a number of years to come. How To Harvest Rhubarb When harvesting, simply take hold of each stalk at its base. Try to gently ease it out of the ground. Aim to avoid cutting or snapping it off if possible. Cut off the leaves (which are not edible) and place these into your composting system or use them as a mulch. You can then take the stems and wash them to use them in your kitchen. After harvesting from a mature plant, replenish the mulch of some homemade compost or other organic material around the rhubarb plant to give it the nutrients it requires. “With the right varieties, it is possible to have 3 seasons of Rhubarb harvest in one year,” says Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. So, make sure you give your plants a chance to recover well before the following year’s harvest.
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You Can Start Dianthus Early Using A Propagator - Or Sow Seeds Directly In Summer
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Dianthus Seeds 1) Prepare Seed Trays & Growing Medium 2) Sow Dianthus Seeds 3) Thin Dianthus Seedlings 4) Plant Out Your Dianthus Dianthus is a varied genus of flowering plants. There are a wide range of different Dianthus to choose from, the most popular of which are garden pinks, carnations and Sweet Williams. Many Dianthus are relatively easy to grow from seed. When Dianthus seeds should be sown depends on which type you are growing: Prepare seed trays or pots filled with seed starting growing medium (if not direct sowing). Sow Dianthus seeds on the surface of the medium or soil. Thin seedlings where required. Plant out Dianthus between March and October. Read on for more information about the above, to learn how to grow the most popular garden Dianthus varieties from seed. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, pots or seed trays, potting medium, heated propagator (optional) When To Sow February – April or May – July When To Plant Out March – October When To Sow Dianthus Seeds It is important to understand that Dianthus is a genus which includes a number of different types of flowers commonly grown in UK gardens. The most popular types are pinks (e.g. D. caryophyllus and D. superbus) and Sweet William (D. barbatus). Pinks are typically sown undercover in late winter or early spring, around 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area. They will typically flower in their second year. Some varieties of Sweet William can also be sown in a heated propagator in February or March and may then flower the same year. However, most are sown in May-July, either where they are to grow, or in pots/seed trays for flowers the following summer. 1) Prepare Seed Trays & Growing Medium Whichever type of Dianthus you are growing, they require free-draining conditions. So when preparing your seed trays of small pots for seed sowing (when not sowing directly), you should make sure that the medium is free draining, and that the container allows any excess water to drain away freely. Choose a seed-starting compost and make sure that it is just moist before sowing your seeds. 2) Sow Dianthus Seeds When sowing Dianthus seeds, the most important thing to remember is that seeds should be sown on the surface, or covered only very lightly, as light is required for germination to take place. Remember that for some Dianthus varietals, sown indoors or under cover early in the year, a heated propagator may be required for germination to take place. 3) Thin Dianthus Seedlings Once germination takes place and seedlings emerge, these should be separated into their own individual pots to be grown on, or thinned to an appropriate spacing if direct sown. Sweet Williams are typically thinned to around 30cm apart, for example. 4) Plant Out Your Dianthus When planting out Dianthus it is of course important to consider which type you are growing and their specific needs. Dianthus in general prefers a spot in full sun, with free-draining conditions, in alkaline or neutral soil. “As many potting composts are slightly acidic, it is worth adding calcified seaweed to ensure the pH of the soil is on the alkaline side of neutral,” advises Roy Nicol, a Professional Gardener and Horticultural Consultant. Typically, Dianthus grown from seed indoors will be planted out once all risk of frost has passed. However, Sweet Williams are often grown on in pots in a cool and sheltered spot. Leave them there until their roots are well established and do not place them out into their final growing positions until early autumn, to flower the following summer.
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Pruning Roses Boosts Plant Health And Airflow: 'Don't Be Afraid Of Making Mistakes'
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Rose Plants? When To Prune Roses Equipment & Tools Rose Pruning Tips For Beginners Identifying Your Rose Type How To Prune Roses Deadheading Care After Pruning Roses are one of the UK’s favourite flowers and many of us grow them in our gardens – but how and when to prune roses can cause a lot of confusion. “Pruning is one of the most fearful black arts for most newer gardeners,” says Philip Harkness, owner of the award-winning nursery Harkness Roses. “When pruning, you are doing better than not pruning at all. After all, it isn’t too hard to perform.” In this guide, we’ll explain why you should prune roses, when you should prune, and what you’ll need to do so. We’ll give some simple tips to help beginners, then delve deeper to explore the process for different rose types that you might grow. Why Prune Rose Plants? We prune roses for several simple reasons: To improve plant health. To reduce the size of overgrown roses. To remove dead, damaged or diseased plant material. And for effective airflow around our plants. Plant Health The most important thing to remember is that pruning should largely be undertaken not for aesthetics but for plant health as a primary consideration. Pruning roses can help to keep your roses happy and healthy. “Don’t be afraid of making mistakes,” says Colin Dickson, Owner of Dickson Roses. “Roses are difficult to kill by pruning.” Reducing Size You may prune roses to restrict their size, where they are vigorous and have outgrown their location. Reducing or restricting the size of roses can help them to be good neighbours to other plants, and can also make sure that they do not want for water and nutrients in the position they are in. Remove Dead Or Diseased Growth Cutting out old, poorly flowering wood on established roses can help promote healthy new growth which will flower better. Often, in pruning, your first goal will be to remove dead, damaged or diseased material. Of course, this not only promotes good flowering but can also prevent further damage or disease. Promote Airflow Another key goal when pruning roses is to prune out spindly or crossing stems so as to create a framework of well-spaced stems that allow air to flow freely around them. “Cutting out an older stem can open up the rose and encourage new growth from the bottom,” says Ben Stirton from Country Rose Gardens. “Don’t be sentimental or nervous, if you over prune it will soon grow back!” Good airflow reduces the chances of diseases taking hold. When To Prune Roses “I would say that there are two main pruning times,” says David Allison, Vice Chairman of the RHS Fruit, Vegetable & Herb Committee. “In late autumn after flowering has finished, you can carry out a light prune to reduce the overall height of the plant. “Then, in early spring whilst the plant is still dormant, prune out any dead, diseased, weak or crossing stems and, depending on the variety, carry out a hard prune to a dormant outward facing bud. “It’s generally better to have 4-5 strong main stems rather than a lot of weaker ones. “This dictates the shape and size of their plant for the forthcoming flowering season.” Generally speaking, late winter/early spring in February or March is typically stated as the best time to prune roses. However, as you will discover below, pruning guidelines differ depending on which type of roses you grow, so we’ll explore when to prune roses in more depth a little later in this guide. “Doing your main pruning in March as generally recommended is far too late and will delay flowering in summer by 6 weeks,” warns Chris Styles from Style Roses. Equipment & Tools To prune roses, you may simply need a sharp and clean pair of secateurs, a pair of gloves and a top with long sleeves to prevent injury from thorns. For more mature roses, however, you might require gardening shears, loppers or a pruning saw, depending on the thickness of the branches. Rose Pruning Tips For Beginners How and when you prune depends on the type of rose you are growing. However, there are a few key rules that it can be useful to bear in mind when pruning your roses at all, as Philip shares: “Start by removing any dead, diseased or damaged growth. After, thin out the centre of the plant. “Cut the remaining stems back by about two-thirds. “Half is fine and more than two-thirds is fine – just leave a shape you like. You can then move on to the next one.” Always make all cuts with clean, sharp secateurs or other tools on larger branches. “The thicker the stem, the less you need to cut back,” shares Colin. “I always tended to prune quite hard to encourage new growth.” “I’m a hard pruner too,” adds Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “I prefer to stimulate new growth and try to avoid top heavy roses. Everyone is different though, and will develop their own penchants when pruning roses. “The important thing is to understand the type of rose you have and the generally accepted rules for pruning them. You can then explore the boundaries of these rules from your own experience.” Stewart Pocock, the owner of Pocock’s Roses, agrees with this method, adding: “The general rule of thumb is the stronger the growth, the less hard you prune and the weaker the growth, the harder you prune.” Identifying Your Rose Type In order to prune roses, it can be helpful to work out what kind of rose you have. Roses are divided into the following categories in terms of their pruning requirements: Climbing Rambling Shrub Hybrid Tea and Floribunda Patio (Miniature) Ground-Cover If you are not sure what type of rose you have, you can still get started with pruning. First of all, determine whether you have a rose which is very tall or needs some sort of support. If you do, it is most likely to be a climbing or rambling rose. If your rose is not a climber or rambler, it may be more difficult to work out which type you have. Patio or miniature roses and ground cover types are easily recognised by their size and growth habit. But if you have a larger rose, it might be hybrid tea or floribunda, or a type of shrub rose. How To Prune Roses If you are not sure which rose you are growing, you can prune carefully in February or March. What happens next will help you to work out which type of rose you are dealing with. Climber Or Rambling Type If you have a taller or supported rose, careful pruning can help you to work out whether it is a climber or a rambler. If the rose has a large, mature single old stem emerging from the ground, prune gently as it may not grow back when cut back hard. Shorten it by no more than one-third to one-half. If your rose has multiple stems, take out a couple of the oldest-looking stems (with grey, flaky bark) as close to the ground as possible. The plant’s response the following season should let you know whether it is a rambler or a climber: If it is a rambler, it is likely to send out a lot of non-flowering shoots. If it is a climber, it is likely to respond with less vigorous but flowering growth. Climbing roses typically repeat flower throughout the summer and into autumn. In contrast, rambling roses will usually bloom once, typically in June. If you know which you have, more precise pruning technique and timing is recommended. Climbing roses are typically pruned between late autumn and late winter. Routine pruning involves removing any material that is dead, damaged or diseased, tying in new shoots to supports, cutting back flowering side shoots by two-thirds of their length, and cutting out really old stems at the base to promote new growth if the plant is congested. Rambling roses are ideally pruned in late summer. When the supports have been covered, these roses should be pruned by removing one in three of the oldest stems to ground-level. Where space is restricted, all flowered stems might be pruned out and new shoots tied in. Finally, side shoots are shortened by around two-thirds of their length. “Ramblers have different requirements, especially those that do not repeat flower and only have one big intense period of blooming that lasts 6-8 weeks,” shares Philip. “Most of the non-repeating roses flower on old wood, so if you cut that out, there will be no flowers the following summer.” See a more in-depth guide to pruning climbing roses here. Shrub Or Bush Type With shrub or bush types, you can also get some clues through pruning as to which type you have. Again in February or March, take out a couple of stems as close to ground-level as you can and shorten the remaining stems by around a third. If vigorous regrowth occurs the following season, flowering well, it is likely that you have a floribunda or hybrid tea rose. If it does not, it is more likely to be some kind of shrub rose. Pruning is more or less the same for floribunda and hybrid roses, but floribunda are left with longer stems with more buds on them. This is to allow for the mass of blooms they generate. “Floribunda and Patio roses need regular deadheading and light pruning to keep an open structure and increase airflow,” says Ben. “You should be able to see through the plant.” “Hybrid Tea & Floribunda Roses need cutting down to 30-45cm, whilst Shrub & English Roses should be cut back to around 60cm,” Chris recommends. Hybrid tea roses are pruned lower to encourage new shoots, as Ben shares: “Hybrid tea roses need to be cut back quite hard to encourage new growth from the bottom otherwise you end up with leggy plants with flowers all at the top.” “Shrub roses can be treated like bush roses, but don’t cut so hard,” says Philip. “You can even just tidy up for a year or two and give a harder prune every second or third year if you like a big bushy natural look to them.” As Philip says, shrub roses typically flower on older stems and should usually be allowed to develop more naturally with lighter pruning. Simply aim to remove dead, damaged or diseased material and prune lightly to create an open structure, removing older unproductive branches to make way for new growth. Deadheading “Regular deadheading is a must during the season to prolong flowering,” says Ben. Repeat flowering rose types should be deadheaded to encourage further blooms. And any roses can be deadheaded simply to improve their appearance. “During the flowering season, prune out any flowers and stems that have gone over,” says David. “Alternatively, cut flowers for your house, to encourage repeat flowering and to promote visual impact. “Afterwards, remove all pruned material to avoid any disease build-up.” However, it does not pay to be too zealous in deadheading as if you remove all faded flowers, you won’t allow the hips to form. And on many types of roses, hips can be beautiful, and also provide an interesting and healthy edible yield. Care After Pruning After late winter or spring pruning, roses should always be mulched well with a thick layer of organic matter such as a good quality homemade compost, leaf mould, or well-rotted manure. It is also a good idea to feed all pruned roses in spring with a balanced organic fertiliser.
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Feeding Geraniums: 'Keeping Them Well Watered Is Important' Says Gary Carroll
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Feeding Geraniums have been a constant in British gardens for about two centuries, reaching their zenith of popularity in the Victorian Era. They have never fallen out of favour and are still one of the UK’s top garden flowers. Geraniums are usually divided into two kinds: Pelargoniums, ‘Tender Geraniums’ or ‘Garden Geraniums,’ and Cranesbill Geraniums or ‘Hardy Geraniums.’ No matter which kind you have, these plants produce flowers that radiate a laid-back, gentle charm all their own. Geraniums are also much admired for their floriferousness and prolonged blooming seasons. So how do you ensure that your Geraniums will display copious blooms from before summer until after summer? Geraniums are famed for doing very nicely, in any old soil – the only condition is that it must drain very well. What they are also well known to do is to respond very well to correct fertilising. Watering First, though, a word about watering these undemanding charmers. Where watering Geraniums is concerned, less is more. Indeed, in some rainy regions of the UK which experience frequent showers you may not need to water Geraniums in open ground for a good spell. Aside from this, “keeping them well watered in their first few months of establishment is important,” says Gary Carroll, the owner of the specialist Geranium retailer, Cranesbill Nursery. During the growing season the aim is to keep the soil consistently moist but it should never be soaked through. When there is no rain, about half-an-inch of water twice a week should suffice. Potted plants on the balcony may not get rain, of course, but, more importantly, container soil dries out quicker all other things being equal. As a rule, water container-grown Geraniums with about half-an-inch of water twice a week though the cultivar, the size of the container, and the type of soil are also factors to consider. Better yet, check that the container’s soil is moist down to 2 to 3 centimetres before deciding whether or not to water. Geraniums cannot tolerate waterlogged soil and can succumb to root rot. These plants are also rather susceptible to mildew. You can go some way toward preventing these diseases by avoiding getting the foliage wet and by watering at soil level, and watering in the mid-morning. Do not continue to water (Hardy or Cranesbill) Geraniums through the winter. Pelargoniums, which require overwintering indoors or in a frost-free greenhouse, should be watered infrequently and conservatively so that the soil dries out between waterings but the roots don’t dry out too. Feeding At the start of spring, feed the plants with a balanced fertiliser. For potted plants use a liquid form; for open ground ones, granular. Repeat once more after about 20 days. “One relatively weak liquid feed or a few chicken manure pellets will be fine for Geraniums,” explains Gary. “If you feed Geraniums too much, you can end up with all foliage and no flowers.” Miracle-Gro All Purpose is another good choice; it is available in both granular and liquid forms. As soon as the flowering season gets underway, start to feed Geraniums with a high-potash formulation, for example a 5-5-10. Apply such a fertiliser every fortnight until the end of summer. Fertiliser formulated for tomatoes will do very well for Geraniums. Comfrey, renowned for its fertilising qualities, when composted becomes a first-rate high-potash fertiliser. Apply fertiliser away from the central root system – we suggest that for Geraniums you apply fertiliser at only about 70-75% of the strength or volume recommended by the manufacturer – again, less is more. Gary recommends that you also mulch your Geraniums with compost or leaf mould in the spring to maintain your plant’s vigour. Geraniums are among those plants that take well to Epsom Salts. In spring you could substitute one feeding of balanced fertiliser with a feeding of Epsom Salts. If at any time during the summer you observe yellowing foliage or even legginess, sub a high-potash feeding with one of Epsom Salts. Epsom Salts should be diluted at one teaspoon in four litres of water. Westland makes an Epsom Salts gardening product. If you follow these watering and feeding guidelines, you will get the best out of your Geraniums as they adorn your garden or patio with a succession of delightful blooms all summer long.
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The Simplest Forms Of Dahlias Work Best For Potted Displays, Say These Growers
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing A Container Choosing Your Potting Mix Potting Up Dahlias How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Potted Dahlia Care Dahlias are hugely popular garden flowers and with good reason. There are a massive variety of dahlias to choose from, in a wide range of shapes and sizes, with lots of variety in bloom shape, size and colour. Dahlias are commonly used in cottage garden-style borders, but where space is more limited, many dahlias can also be grown in containers. “I absolutely love dahlias and think they work brilliantly when grown in pots,” shares Tamsin Westhorpe, a Garden Writer and Horticulturist. “I think if you’ve got a small garden and somewhere indoors where you can overwinter the tubers, I don’t think you can beat a dahlia. You can cut them, they go on forever and they give you colour for a long time.” When deciding whether you can grow dahlias in pots, the most important thing to consider is the size of the particular cultivar that you have chosen to grow. Some smaller types are far better suited to container cultivation. “Sometimes, the simplest forms of dahlias, such as the dark-leaved, open-centred varieties, can give a fabulous display in pots, with the added advantage that they will attract all types of pollinators,” says David Hall, manager and director of the specialist dahlia nursery Halls of Heddon. Remember, while dahlias can work well in pots, it will usually involve a little more work and effort than growing them in the ground. You will need to work a little harder to keep on top of the plants’ water needs and must strive to maintain fertility over time. Many dahlias may need some support as they grow, and the container you choose will have to be sturdy and heavy enough to support taller growth. Choosing A Container When choosing a container for dahlias, you should choose a pot of sufficient size. Though due to the root systems of these plants, it will not need to be particularly deep, as David explains: “Obviously, tall varieties in pots are going to be much more vulnerable to blowing over so a wider-based pot will be more suitable.” A pot around 30-40cm wide, and around 30cm deep will usually be large enough to accommodate most dahlia plants. Containers should be sturdy and heavy enough not to blow or topple over – especially if you are growing a taller dahlia cultivar. The container should of course have good drainage at the base. Choosing Your Potting Mix Fill your chosen container or containers with a good quality peat-free multi-purpose compost or a homemade blend, mixed with homemade compost or a well-rotted manure. “I would recommend adding water-retaining gel to your compost, as it is important not to let Dahlias dry out too much,” Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant, recommends. “You may be able to find a potting mix with it already added at some garden centres” Potting Up Dahlias If you have purchased a potted dahlia plant, the plant should be placed at the same depth in its new container as it was in its previous pot. Make sure that there is growing medium all around the tubers and root system, and that there are no air pockets around the plant. Firm the soil around the plant and water it in well. Mulch around the top of the container with organic matter. “I’ve even found that the smaller bedding/patio types are better with some support, even if it’s just a few canes and some string around them to tie them in,” says David. You should add your support when planting, so you don’t impact the growth of roots later on in the process. You can also grow dahlias from tubers, from cuttings, or from seed. Start tubers indoors around February, potting up divided tubers into individual pots when they are around 3cm high. Place outdoors in May or early June, or plant them directly into containers outdoors from April. Place a tuber with shoots around 10-15cm deep in your container. If growing dahlias from seed, prick out seedlings into individual small pots, then harden off and place into their final growing positions (which can be in containers) in late May or June. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Typically, dahlias require a reasonable amount of space to grow. Jack Gott, the owner of JRG Dahlias, recommends planting 3 dahlias in a large pot, but you should keep in mind that they do need some space to grow. They should usually be spaced around 50-60cm apart. So typically, unless using a very large container, you will grow just a single plant in each container to grow to maturity. Potted Dahlia Care Dahlias can grow well in containers, but do require some care. “It is vital to provide sufficient water to plants in pots, including dahlias,” says Elaine from Dachshund Dahlias. Water well in dry weather, trying to water soil and not splashing water on leaves or flowers. It is best to water deeply, and less frequently rather than little and often, as shallow watering encourages shallower root formation. Replenish mulch around the top of the container each spring for fertility and moisture retention. Feed dahlias in pots once a week or so with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed. Remember to stake taller cultivars for support, as June states: “The plants will need to be supported, usually with 3 canes and some string.” “The pots should also be rotated a 1/4 turn every other day to give the plant equal light and ensure equal growth,” adds June. Look out for slugs, snails and other pests – remain vigilant to stay on top of any potential problems. “Keep an eye out for insect damage and use an insecticide where needed, being careful to follow the maker’s instructions,” says June. Harvest dahlias for cut flowers, and deadhead every week or so during the blooming period to encourage further blooms. “Remove lower foliage to promote airflow and reduce issues with mould and rotting leaves,” says Elaine. “You can easily tend to plants in pots as they are more accessible.” After dahlias begin to die back in autumn and enter their dormant phase for winter, you can either move the container under cover into a frost-free location or lift and store the tubers in potting compost or sand in a frost-free place. After all risk of frost has passed, you can move the dahlias back outdoors and they should regrow and bloom again and again over a number of years.
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Dianthus In Pots - The Best Options To Grow Have Compact Growth Habits
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Dianthus Containers Choosing Compost Potting Up Dianthus Potted Dianthus Care Dianthus such as Pinks and Sweet William can be excellent choices for many gardens. Dianthus prefer a sunny and free-draining spot, ideally, usually, in alkaline or neutral soil. They can also often be excellent options for growing in containers. While many Dianthus species and cultivars can work very well in containers, it is important to understand that some will be better suited to growing in pots than others. The best options are usually those which are more compact in their growth habits – such as alpine pinks, small border carnations etc. Though even larger Dianthus may work well in containers as long as these are sturdy enough and of sufficient size. Choosing Dianthus Containers When choosing a container for a Dianthus, it is important to understand how large the cultivar or variety that you have chosen can be expected to grow. It is also important to note, if you are planning an outside container garden, that while most Dianthus are fully hardy, there are some florist’s carnations which are perpetual flowering and grown in a greenhouse year-round. Dianthus can differ in their growing requirements. Most, however, require relatively free draining conditions in full sun – make sure that the container you choose allows water to drain away freely from the base. The Dianthus should not be too constricted, but should also not be given too much room. In too large a pot, with too much growing medium around the roots, waterlogging can become a problem. Choosing Compost The medium that you choose to fill your containers will depend on the stage of growth of your Dianthus, and also whether you intend to keep the Dianthus in the pot only for a certain period of time before planting out into a garden, or will grow Dianthus in containers over the longer term. Just remember that, in general, you should use a peat-free compost mix, and that mix should be free-draining. But also, the medium should not dry out entirely. Aim to keep it just moist. Potting Up Dianthus Dianthus are usually potted up or planted after risk of frost has passed, in the spring. Though purchased plants can often be potted up throughout the summer and into early autumn too. Remember that Dianthus that will grow outside in your garden typically do best when positioned in a site with full sun. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Larger Dianthus varieties may be potted up into their own individual pots, while smaller types, like alpine pinks, may well be planted with several in a larger pot, or grown in a larger container alongside other alpine plants. You might consider growing smaller pinks alongside a range of other alpines, or, for example, perennial Salvias, lavender, hyssop and thyme, for example – all of which also like sunny and free-draining conditions. When planting up mixed containers, however, remember that Dianthus does not usually like to be too crowded with other plants. An open and uncongested position with reasonably good airflow will see them perform at their best. Potted Dianthus Care Place containers in a sunny position in your garden. Rabbits love Dianthus so you may need to choose a location rabbits cannot reach if you have lots of these in your area. Water moderately and take care to avoid overwatering and waterlogging. Remain vigilant for signs of pests or disease. Dianthus are often trouble-free, but issues can occur and it is important to keep a look out and deal with any issues before they become more of a problem. Deadhead Dianthus after the first blooms fade (often, though not always, you can obtain a second and sometimes even a third flowering from these plants). After deadheading, feed with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed to encourage further flowering and keep the plants healthy. In autumn, cut back faded blooms and remove any straggly leaves – give the plants a light trim to encourage fresh foliage growth. If the foliage of a mature perennial Dianthus gets frost damaged in winter, cut back hard to a couple of centimetres above the medium’s surface. Move container-grown Dianthus to a sheltered location to protect them from winter cold and especially winter wet. Remember that plants in pots are less insulated and more vulnerable than those in the ground. “If I bring Dianthus into an unheated greenhouse for the winter, I like to give them a good trim to thin them out, otherwise I know I will be dealing with Botrytis (grey mould) due to the lack of airflow and the damp conditions,” says Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant.
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