Growing
Any Of These 20 Peruvian Lily Types Work Well In Summer Borders Or Containers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) A. ‘Apollo’ 2) A. psittacina ‘Royal Star’ 3) A. ‘Cahors’ (Planet Series) 4) A. ‘Coronet’ 5) A. ‘Friendship’ 6) A. Indian Summer (‘Tesronto’PBR) 7) A. Inticancha Passion (‘Tespassion’PBR) 8) A. aurea ‘Lutea’ 9) A. ‘Orange Glory’ 10) A. ‘Oriana’ 11) A. ‘Phoenix’ 12) A. ‘Red Elf’ 13) A. Rock ‘n’ Roll (‘Alsdun01’PBR) 14) A. ‘Saturne’ (Planet Series) 15) A. ‘Sirius’ (Planet Series) 16) A. ‘Sonata’ 17) A. ‘Spitfire’ 18) A. Summer Snow (‘Gasumsnow’) 19) A. ‘Tessa’ 20) A. ‘Yellow Friendship’ References Also referred to as Peruvian lilies, Alstroemerias are a popular choice for UK gardens. They work very well either in summer borders or in containers, and there are many modern cultivars that you can choose from. In fact, the array of options when trying to choose Alstroemerias for your garden can be somewhat overwhelming. When choosing between these plants, it can be helpful to think about: Where you wish to grow it (in the ground or in a container) The height of a particular cultivar The colours of the blooms and foliage (and your personal preferences in regard to these things) Horticulturist Colin Skelly professes his love for Peruvian Lilies: “I use Alstroemerias to create bold, contrasting colour matches as their bright colours lend themselves to this, particularly as they flower at the height of summer when many other showy flowers are blooming.” “However, you may wish to combine them harmoniously with other plants. “Use a colour wheel – colours opposite to each other will contrast whilst those next to each other will harmonise.” In order to help you narrow down your choices, we’ve devised this list of interesting and beautiful Alstroemerias to grow: 1) A. ‘Apollo’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Apollo’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): White, brown and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Apollo’ is an attractive Alstroemeria which grows to around 1m in height. It has flowers which have yellow centres and pure white edges, streaked with brown. 2) A. psittacina ‘Royal Star’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Royal Star’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This clump-forming tuberous perennial grows to around 90cm in height. The blooms of this type of Alstroemeria are red and funnel-shaped, with green tips and deeper red markings. The leaves have irregular white fringes around their edges. 3) A. ‘Cahors’ (Planet Series) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Cahors’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Several options in the Planet series of Alstroemeria make it onto our list. These are very popular Alstroemeria varieties, which are widely available for sale in the UK.1 Cahors also grows up to around 90cm in height. Its mid-tone green, lance-shaped leaves set its yellow, red-streaked and deep pink flowers off to great effect. 4) A. ‘Coronet’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Coronet’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Pink, brown and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This larger, dramatic Alstroemeria can grow up to around 1.4m in height. Its flowers are a vibrant salmon pinkish-peach shade, with a yellow flare, brown-streaked, within. 5) A. ‘Friendship’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Friendship’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER(S): Cream, pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Friendship’ is somewhat hardier than the other options on this list, with a hardiness rating of H5 rather than H4 like most Alstroemeria.2 It can grow to around a metre in height and bears blooms of a lovely creamy yellow, flushed with pink, and with brown streaks towards the centres. 6) A. Indian Summer (‘Tesronto’PBR) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn In the Summer Paradise Series, this Alstroemeria is another of the most popular cultivars in the UK, growing up to 1m tall.3 It has dark green to dark purple lanceolate leaves, and funnel shaped flowers which are a lovely fiery orange-yellow, with red marking and some brown streaks inside. 7) A. Inticancha Passion (‘Tespassion’PBR) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): White and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn The Inticancha Passion is part of another Series of Alstroemeria cultivars which are much smaller and shorter than other varieties. They grow only around 30cm high with a similar spread, and so can be ideal for containers, or for the front of a border. There are several other different options to choose from within this series, with flowers in a range of different hues. 8) A. aurea ‘Lutea’ COMMON NAME(S): Alstroemeria aurea yellow HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow and brown FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Alstroemeria aurea ‘Lutea’ is a slightly taller option that grows to a height of 1-1.2m. It has vivid, bright yellow flowers, which are specked with brown. 9) A. ‘Orange Glory’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Orange Glory’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Brown, orange and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Also growing to around the same height, about 1 to 1.2m, this cultivar, as the name implies, has bright orange blooms. These are blotched with a cheery yellow colour. 10) A. ‘Oriana’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Oriana’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Brown, pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn This is another more compact Alstroemeria, which will not usually exceed 50cm in height or spread. It is another excellent option for containers. It has funnel shaped flowers in a deep pink hue, with yellow inner petals with deep pink tips and brown dashes. 11) A. ‘Phoenix’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Phoenix’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn The startling blooms of this cultivar are a glorious rosy red with deeper red streaks, with yellow blotches on the innermost two petals, which are speckled with small dark streaks. The foliage is variegated, with mid-green cores, pale green and creamy borders, and is tinged with pink in spring. 12) A. ‘Red Elf’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Red Elf’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Another deep red option, these predominantly red flowers have orange blushes towards the centre, dappled with dark black streaks. 13) A. Rock ‘n’ Roll (‘Alsdun01’PBR) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn This variety is prized not only for its beautiful deep red flowers,with their yellow, dark streaked blushes, but also for its foliage. New shoots are yellow, stems turning white, and the leaves are a vibrant white, with green streaks and edges.4 The flowers can grow up to around 1.5m in height. 14) A. ‘Saturne’ (Planet Series) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Saturne’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Saturne’ is another popular option within the Planet Series. This Alstroemeria has coral-pink outer petals, kissed with a deeper pink, and inner petals of a golden yellow hue, speckled with dark, earthy red. It can grow to around 60-70cm in height. 15) A. ‘Sirius’ (Planet Series) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Sirius’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn ‘Sirius’ is another popular choice within the Planet Series of Alstroemeria. It has vibrant pink flowers, with some darker reddish streaks on yellow flashes in the centre of each flower. 16) A. ‘Sonata’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Sonata’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn ‘Sonata’ is another highly regarded Alstroemeria cultivar. It grows to a height of around a metre and has bright red flowers. The inner petals have yellow patches and dark red streaks. 17) A. ‘Spitfire’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Spitfire’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn ‘Spitfire’ is another warm and vibrant Alstroemeria to consider. It grows to a height of 90cm and has orangey-red flowers with bright yellow flares inside, mottled with darker streaks. The variegated leaves are also attractive, with green centres and yellowy cream edges. 18) A. Summer Snow (‘Gasumsnow’) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn This is a relatively new cultivar, with creamy white blooms.5 It grows to a height of around 70cm and spread of around 50cm. The flowers are born freely and continuously through the summer and often well into autumn. This is another option within the Summer Paradise Series of Alstroemeria. 19) A. ‘Tessa’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Tessa’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Another taller Alstroemeria, growing up to around 1.2m in height on average. ‘Tessa’ has red flowers, with dark red streaks, and small yellow blotches on the upper two inner petals. 20) A. ‘Yellow Friendship’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Yellow Friendship’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn ‘Yellow Friendship’ is not H5 hardy like the original ‘Friendship’, but it is another great choice to consider. Like all the other Alstroemeria on this list, it is H4 hardy. It has outer petals of a light, lemony-yellow shade and brighter yellow inner petals that are streaked with dashes of dark brown. Of course, the options outlined in this list are by no means your only options. There are plenty of other beautiful varieties to consider, but the options here are a great place to start, as these represent the cream of the crop for Alstroemeria to grow in the UK. References 1. Alstroemeria Planet Series. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/374460/alstroemeria-planet-series/details 2. Alstroemeria “Friendship.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/119424/alstroemeria-friendship/details 3. Alstroemeria Indian Summer. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/315669/i-alstroemeria-i-font-face-times-new-roman-indian-summer-font-tesronto-sup-(pbr)-sup-(summer-paradise-series)/details 4. Alstroemeria “Rock ‘n’ Roll.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/311959/alstroemeria-rock-n-roll-(-alsdun01-pbr)-(v)/details 5. Alstroemeria Summer Snow. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/358745/alstroemeria-summer-snow-gasumsnow-(summer-paradise-series)/details
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Container Grown Alstroemeria? It's Possible, But Plants Will Be More Vulnerable To Cold
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Alstroemeria In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing A Compost Or Potting Mix Potting Up Alstroemeria Potted Alstroemeria Care Peruvian lilies, also known as Alstroemeria, are vibrant and exotic-looking perennials which can work very well in containers. Growing Alstroemerias in containers can be a great idea, but it is important to understand the care and conditions that these South American plants require. You’ll need to provide those conditions and care so that the plants flower well and remain happy and healthy. Can You Grow Alstroemeria In Pots? Yes, these plants can be a good choice for container growing and they can thrive in suitable pots. However, it is worth noting that although these plants can sometimes survive a winter in the ground, container-grown plants will need to be taken under cover during the winter months. Most Alstroemerias are H4 hardy, which means that they can be damaged in more extreme winters and when grown in chillier or more exposed parts of the UK. Plants in containers are more vulnerable to cold because they do not have the protection of the ground around them, and bulb-like tubers are more likely to be impacted. High winter rainfall can also cause problems with saturation and waterlogging. To combat this, you will need to have a cool porch or unheated greenhouse in which to place them to keep them protected from the effects of frost. Smaller, shorter Alstroemeria are usually a better choice for container growing. Make sure you understand how tall the cultivar you are considering will ultimately grow. Height is one of the key considerations when choosing Alstroemeria, especially when you plan to grow them in containers. Choosing A Container When choosing a container for Alstroemeria, it is important to note that they require free draining conditions. Any container that you choose should allow for the free drainage of excess water through the base. Alstroemeria does best when their roots are given the opportunity to spread. A container of at least 40cm in diameter should usually be selected for mature plants, but for smaller specimens, be sure not to over-pot, as this can cause waterlogging. Choose a container slightly larger than the existing root system then pot up as the plant grows, choosing a slightly larger container each time. While there are a number of different containers that you could choose, terracotta pots are sturdy yet have some porosity and will complement the vibrant hues of the flowers. Choosing A Compost Or Potting Mix Fill your chosen container with a good quality, peat-free soil-based compost with 20% grit added by volume to improve drainage. “I use propagating bark to aid free drainage of growing media,” suggests Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “[This] is also great for mulching the top of pots to retain moisture and keep down weeds.” It can also be a good idea to add mulch over the top of the compost to retain moisture and to stop spot water from pooling on top of the growing medium. Potting Up Alstroemeria Alstroemeria is usually placed into containers (or into borders) in spring. Plants will usually need to be repotted into a slightly larger container (or divided) every couple of years. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? It is best to plant just a single Alstroemeria per container since they can clump out quite quickly. However, remember that you can consider growing Alstroemeria in larger containers alongside other plants which like the same conditions, but will not be overly competitive. Potted Alstroemeria Care Alstroemeria, when provided with the right growing conditions, is pretty easy to care for. You should be able to enjoy your plants over a number of years, as long as you care for them correctly. Here are some things to look out for after you have planted your Alstroemerias in pots: Place pots in a sunny and sheltered position Water regularly during the growing season (remember that plants in containers will dry out more quickly – just make sure excess water can always drain away!) Feed container-grown Alstroemeria with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed (such as comfrey tea) from the arrival of the first buds right through the growing season Taller cultivars of Alstroemeria may need support – so place sticks, stakes or other appropriate support structures where these are required Protect younger plants from slugs and snails, which can sometimes be an issue When harvesting flowers for floral arrangements, or when deadheading, pull stems from the base rather than cutting, as this stimulates new growth Move your plants to a frost-free location such as a cool porch or unheated greenhouse for the winter months
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Dierama From Seed - Beware It Can Take Up To 5 Years From Sowing To Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Collect Dierama Seed 2) Prepare Trays & Sow 3) Place In A Sheltered Spot 4) Prick Out & Pot On Seedlings 5) Overwinter Then Plant Out Dierama are delicate South African plants, also known as Angel’s Fishing Rods or Wandflowers. They are a perennial which can look great among other perennials and ornamental grasses, with their bell-shaped flowers hanging from thin and arching stems. Dierama can be purchased as potted plants, or grown from bulb-like corms. New plants can also be propagated by means of division of mature clumps, but if you are an experienced gardener, you might also consider taking on the challenge of growing Dierama from seed. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Seeds, pots or seed trays, potting medium, propagator, cold frame, greenhouse(?) When To Sow August – September When To Plant Out May – June If you are considering growing Dierama from seed, it is important to note that it can take up to 5 years or so from sowing seeds to flowering. So you should not expect to quickly enjoy their blooms in your garden if you do choose to propagate the plants in this way. You should also note that Dierama plants which are grown from seed may differ slightly from the parent plant if other cultivars are growing close by. If you are not deterred, the process of growing Dierama from seed is actually relatively straightforward – it is just the time to maturity which makes this a difficult task. To grow Dierama from seed: Collect seed from a mature Dierama as soon as they ripen in late summer or early autumn. Sow the seeds immediately into small pots or seed trays of seed compost. Place the pots or trays into a cold frame for germination to take place. After a few months, the seedlings should have emerged – and can be pricked out and potted on. Grow on the seedlings in frost-free conditions, then plant out the following spring. Read on for further guidelines to help you with this process. 1) Collect Dierama Seed Dierama which are mature and flowering will produce a lot of seed, which you can collect once it is ripe. Collect seeds on a dry, calm day and place them in a paper envelope so they are kept dry.. 2) Prepare Trays & Sow Prepare seed trays or small pots – fill these with John Innes Seed Compost or a similar homemade seed starting mix. A propagator can be useful, as Dierama will germinate best when the medium is at around 17°C. Moisten the medium before sowing – seeds should be placed on the surface of the medium and covered only very lightly if at all, as they need gentle light to germinate. “If the seeds do not germinate after a few weeks, they can be ‘cold stratified’ by being placed in the fridge for 4 weeks and then brought back to a temperature of 12-18°C, after which germination should occur after 4-8 weeks,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. 3) Place In A Sheltered Spot Place the trays or pots into a cool yet frost-free location, which is reasonably bright, but out of direct sunlight. A cold frame can be the ideal spot. Be patient! Dierama germination can be erratic and it can take anywhere between around a month and four months for germination to take place. Do not give up too soon if you do not see results quickly. As you wait for germination to take place, make sure that you keep the medium moist – but take care not to overwater and avoid saturation. 4) Prick Out & Pot On Seedlings When germination does finally take place, as soon as seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out and pot them on into their own individual 7cm pots. 5) Overwinter Then Plant Out Grow your Dierama seedlings in a frost-free location such as a greenhouse until the spring. After the last frost date in your area, in around May or June, you can plant out your young Dierama plants into their final growing positions in your garden. But remember, you are unlikely to see flowers for quite some time – the Dierama may take five years to flower. Be sure to choose the right location for planting out. Dierama requires plenty of warmth and moist yet free-draining soil conditions, and will not thrive in a chilly, shaded or waterlogged spot. Both heavy clay soils and light and sandy ones should be enriched with plenty of well-rotted organic matter before planting.
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16 Sublime Dierama Varieties With Mostly Pink, White And Red Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. pendulum 2) D. pulcherrimum 3) D. jucundum 4) D. igneum 5) D. robustum 6) D. pauciflorum 7) D. reynoldsii 8) D. erectum 9) D. dracomontanum 10) D. mossii 11) D. trichorhizum 12) D. pulcherrimum ‘Blackbird’ 13) D. pulcherrimum ‘Blackberry Bells’ 14) D. pulcherrimum var. album 15) D. ‘Guinevere’ 16) D. luteoalbidum References With their more than passing resemblance to fishing rods when in bloom, Dieramas look nothing so much as plants out of a fantasyland fairy garden and they will be a delight to both young and old. Here are sixteen commonly grown varieties with a sweetly charming habit: 1) D. pendulum Common Name: Fairy Bell From the Eastern Cape. Overhanging dense clumps of foliage, flower stalks are a full 1m long and the blooms’ hues vary from pale pink to bright, brilliant pink. 2) D. pulcherrimum Common Name: Angel’s Fishing Rod Found in a wide swath of land in South Africa. It is a comparatively dense plant with good spread, bearing many flower stalks of just over 1m. Flowers are a bright pink-purple. 3) D. jucundum Common Name: Delightful Wandflower From the Cape of South Africa. It tops out at about 1m and its stalks are even wirier than the norm. It produces comparatively smaller flowers but they are more flared open than most and are of a brilliant, deep pink-magenta colour. 4) D. igneum Common Name: Fiery Wandflower Native to a few countries in South-Eastern Africa. At 30-70cm it is one of the shorter and smaller species but produces foliage and flower stalks quite densely. Flowers are a bright rosy pink. 5) D. robustum Common Name: Robust Wandflower From South Africa and Lesotho. Its name refers to its stalks’ great height as they are typically between one and 1.5m. Making a fine contrast with anything ‘robust’ are the bells which are wholly pendent and in the most demure shade of pastel pink. 6) D. pauciflorum Common Name: Few-Flowered Wandflower Native to a large swath of land in Southern and East Africa. The plant itself is not large and is of a dwarf type, rising to only 30-40cm; the flower stalks merely peeking past the foliage. Drooping bells are of a bright candy pink colour. 7) D. reynoldsii Hails from the highlands of KwaZulu Natal in the Eastern Cape of South Africa. It is a tall species, with flower stalks reaching about 2m tall.1 The flowers, perfectly bell-shaped, are uncommon, being of a rich wine-red tone. 8) D. erectum Also hails from KwaZulu Natal but makes its habitats in lowlands near rivers and streams. Though its flowers are the ‘normal’ pink-purple colour, it too is an uncommon species. First, with flower stalks rising to over 1m and up to 1.5m, it is a giant. Next, it is virtually unique among Dierama for bearing erect spikes of upward- or outward-facing flowers. 9) D. dracomontanum Common Name: Drakensberg Wandflower Grows in South Africa and Lesotho and most particularly in the Drakensberg Mountains. It is a montane species. Flower stalks do not arc as much as most other species, especially as they grow to only about 60cm. The blooms are smaller than most and are of a bright salmon pink to coral pink hue. 10) D. mossii Common Name: Moss’s Wandflower Grows in most of South Africa. It is a dwarf species as its flower stalks are only 40-50cm. Though they are comparatively short, they arc gracefully. Flowers are narrow bells and of a vibrant purplish-pink tone. 11) D. trichorhizum Common Name: Hairy-Rooted Wandflower Hails from the highlands of South Africa and Lesotho. It too is a dwarf with flower stalks of only 30-40cm, which do not arc much. Its flowers too are narrow and bell-like, and are mauve-pink. 12) D. pulcherrimum ‘Blackbird’ Similar to the species with the difference that the flowers’ tones are from a deep fuschia to a wine-purple tone, making it an eye-catching variety. 13) D. pulcherrimum ‘Blackberry Bells’ Similar to the species with the difference that the flowers’ tones are from a pink-purple to rich, deep purple, making this an eye-catching variety as well. 14) D. pulcherrimum var. album Common Names: White Angel’s Fishing Rod; D. ’Snowbells’ Similar to the species with the difference that the flowers are pure white. Because of the uncommon colour it is one of the most desirable Dierama varieties. 15) D. ‘Guinevere’ Produces stalks of a little over 1m in height over the foliage of about 1m. The flowers are more flared open than most and are pink-tinged or pink-flushed white. 16) D. luteoalbidum Found only in KwaZulu Natal in the Eastern Cape of South Africa, and not in abundance.2 In fact, it is an endangered species.3 It is rare because of its endangered status and also because of the colour of its flowers which is a pale lemon-yellow progressing to yellowish-white. As Dierama plants are becoming more and more appreciated in the United Kingdom, nurseries specialising in bulbs and rhizomes are developing their own hybrids and cultivars including bicoloured ones. References 1. Dierama reynoldsii. (n.d.). PlantZAfrica. Retrieved June 5, 2023, from http://pza.sanbi.org/dierama-reynoldsii 2. Dierama luteoalbidum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:436848-1 3. Fennell, C. (2022, March 28). Dierama luteoalbidum. Academia. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.academia.edu/1563260/Dierama_luteoalbidum_Liquid_culture_provides_an_efficient_system_for_the_ex_situ_conservation_of_an_endangered_and_horticulturally_valuable_plant
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How To Grow Phlox With Emily Cupit: Important Considerations For Thriving Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Phlox Types Where To Grow Phlox Ongoing Plant Care Companion Planting References These herbaceous show-stoppers are favoured in borders up and down the country. Mostly available in the tall, perennial form, there are also certain annual varieties more suited to bedding. Whichever cultivar you opt for, you’ll be rewarded with delightful clusters of star-shaped flower-heads during blooming season, which generally runs from July to September but can vary depending upon species. What’s more, they’re not just a pretty face – they also smell divine. That makes them a firm favourite not just with the human population, but with bees, butterflies and other pollinators, too. Overview Botanical Name Phlox Common Name(s) Phlox, Border Phlox Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial (some annual species) Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H6/H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Panicles of five-petaled flowers When To Plant Spring or Autumn Harvesting Months June, July, August When To Prune Deadhead after flowering (summer) Due to their ease of cultivation and the hardiness with which they endure British winters, phlox are a popular option in herbaceous borders throughout the country. They originally hail from North America (though there is one cultivar native to Siberia), meaning the switch to the UK climate is not a drastic one.1 Though most varieties of phlox are quite tall, their stems are generally quite robust and don’t often require staking unless exposed to particularly harsh wind conditions. Having said that, there are also a number of low-growing varieties which make attractive bedding and ground cover options. Phlox Types In the wild, phlox plants are capable of exceeding 2m in height. However, years of breeding have refined them to a more manageable stature, with most cultivars now reaching between 1-1.2m at most. They’re available in a wide variety of colours, while smaller specimens can also be obtained. The most common types include: P. paniculata This variety of phlox is undoubtedly the most popular species of phlox in the UK. ‘Blue Paradise’ is a popular option growing to 1.2m which, despite its name, bears gorgeous violet flowers.2 ‘Purple Eye Flame’ is a smaller alternative (up to 40cm in height and spread) with petals of a deeper purple melting into white at the centre. P. divaricata A woodland breed of phlox, this group of plants requires partial shade and terrain that’s rich in humus to replicate the conditions of a forest. With a spread (50cm) greater than its height (35cm), it’s perfect for cultivating in picturesque clumps beneath deciduous trees or at the periphery of a colourful border. “I have been a huge fan of Phlox divaricata ever since I saw it growing on the High Line, a raised public park in New York,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “A spring bloomer, it is a good woodland plant to fill the gap between spring bulbs and early summer flowers.” P. drummondii Unlike most varieties of phlox, this species is an annual which is most popular as a bedding plant for its vibrant display during the summer months. It spreads readily, making it an excellent option for plugging gaps, and its beautiful blossoms, which cover the whole spectrum of blue and purple, look great in containers or as cut flowers. See more interesting varieties of Phlox in this guide. Where To Grow Phlox As mentioned above, phlox are generally revered for their ability to enliven borders. Unsurprisingly, taller varieties work well to the rear of a border, while smaller ones are perfect for the front or for filling in empty patches in beds and rockeries. They also appreciate a decent amount of sunshine, though woodland varieties do better in partial shade. Take advantage of the favourable conditions in spring and autumn by planting them when the terrain is still moist and warm. Ongoing Plant Care As unfussy plants, phlox are generally not that demanding in terms of the TLC you bestow upon them, especially perennial varieties which have had time to properly establish themselves. However, you’ll still want to pay attention to the following: Watering Phlox will require copious amounts of watering upon initial planting to help the roots get a good grip on the terrain. Thereafter, they don’t require any irrigation, unless you’re hit by a long period of dry weather. They do enjoy a drink so don’t let them die of thirst – at the first sign of wilting foliage, give them a good dousing. Water at the base and target the roots rather than overhead, and do so in the morning before the heat of the day dries the moisture. Light Requirements Most varieties of phlox enjoy exposure to full sun, but will also tolerate dappled shade and woodland varieties actually prefer it. Soil Requirements Phlox are generally undemanding creatures and will do well in most soil types, as long as there is good drainage but not too much aridity. Sandy soils, or those which do not receive much rainfall, should be enhanced with organic mulch and irrigated thoroughly. Fertilising Fertiliser should only be necessary if growing phlox in poor quality or particularly arid soil. In that case, use organic mulch to improve the terrain and retain moisture when planting and afterwards, or else feed with a commercial fertiliser every spring. Common Pests Although generally free from pests and diseases, powdery mildew can develop on plants which aren’t receiving enough water. Spider mites and eelworm can also damage foliage and stunt growth. Rabbit and deer can also pose a nuisance. Companion Planting The vibrancy of phlox’s blooms is the chief reason why people opt for it, so position it wherever you require a dash of colour to brighten up drab surroundings. You can mix them in with other herbaceous perennials, such as abelias, campanulas, delphiniums, geraniums, monardas, poppies and red hot pokers, or else make them the star of the show by contrasting with ornamental grasses. References 1. Gentry, K. (2018, May 1). Native Phlox: A Virginia Garden Gem. Loudoun Wildlife Conservancy. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://loudounwildlife.org/2018/05/native-phlox-a-virginia-garden-gem/ 2. Phlox paniculata “Blue Paradise.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/50575/phlox-paniculata-blue-paradise/details
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Start Deadheading Alstroemeria The Minute Your First Flowers Start To Fade, Say Experts
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead Alstroemerias 1) Loosen Any Ties To Supports 2) Pull Off Faded Flower Stems At The Base 3) Cut Back Any Remaining Stems If you are not familiar with Alstroemeria, when growing them you will soon find that they can be great value plants for a garden – providing beautiful, vibrant flowers over quite a long period. Deadheading can lead to a longer blooming period since the plants will often produce new flowers, rather than rushing to produce seeds and wasting their energy on that. Deadheading will also mean, of course, that your flower beds and container gardens look great all summer long. “As well as leading to longer blooming, deadheading can be a very calming task,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I find that the minutes, and even hours, fly past when I’m deadheading and it’s great think time, a king of horticultural mindfulness!” Just remember that deadheading all flowers will mean that you cannot collect the seed, so be sure to leave some flowers to go to seed if you wish to collect these to sow. Fortunately, deadheading Alstroemeria could not be simpler, so read on for a more in-depth explanation: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves When To Deadhead July – September When To Deadhead Alstroemerias Start to deadhead Alstroemerias as soon as the first flowers begin to fade. When exactly your Alstroemeria will be in bloom will depend on which cultivars you have chosen. Generally these plants flower between June and as late as October. 1) Loosen Any Ties To Supports Some taller varieties of Alstroemeria do better with some form of support, so if you have staked or otherwise supported your Alstroemeria, the first step will be to loosen and remove any ties, and move supports out of the way. 2) Pull Off Faded Flower Stems At The Base Once you have removed any supports or ties that are in the way, you can simply remove the stems with faded flowers. Rather than cutting off the flowers, it is best to pull gently on the stem, so that it comes away at the base. Pulling rather than cutting is best because this strategy encourages new growth to form. 3) Cut Back Any Remaining Stems You can continue to deadhead throughout the flowering season, but it is a good idea to leave dead vegetation of herbaceous perennials in place over the winter because it provides an excellent habitat for wildlife. So, stop deadheading before the end of the season arrives and make your garden just that little bit friendlier for wildlife over the winter months. Then in early spring, cut back or pull off any remaining stems to the base before any new growth emerges, to make way for new growth.
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12 Spectacular Types Of Bamboo, Including Kerri Dall's Fargesia Favourites
IN THIS GUIDE About Bamboo Types Running vs Clumping Varieties Giant vs Dwarf Varieties 1) Phyllostachys nigra (AGM) 2) Shibataea kumasaca (AGM) 3) Phyllostachys aurea 4) Fargesia nitida 5) Pseudosasa japonica (AGM) 6) Phyllostachys aureosulcata f. spectabilis (AGM) 7) Pleioblastus variegatus (AGM) 8) Fargesia ‘Red Panda’ 9) Sasa veitchii 10) Chusquea culeou (AGM) 11) Himalayacalamus hookerianus 12) x Hibanobambusa tranquillans ‘Shiroshima’ References Bamboo is a group of plants from the Poaceae family (grasses) that are fast growing and native to many parts of the world including the Americas, Asia, Africa and Australasia.1 Bamboo is a popular plant to grow and rightly so, as they can add height, screening, colour, movement and even sound to a garden. With many different varieties from clump forming to runners and dwarf to giant – there is a bamboo to suit all gardens. In this guide, we share advice from Kerri Dall, owner of Scottish Bamboo, who has grown more than 50 different varieties of bamboo here in the UK over a fifteen-year period. Her favourites are the Fargesia varieties, due to the variety of colours and non-invasive habit – see more on this below. About Bamboo Types Bamboo stalks or shafts are known as culms – and it is the culm that is popularly thought of as ‘bamboo.’ The vast majority of species’ culms are hollow. Bamboo is unique among trees in that its culms emerge from the ground at their full diameter; they do not grow thicker as they gain height. Bamboo grows and spreads by way of its rhizomes, which are subsoil stems that link the root system to the culms. Running vs Clumping Varieties Running bamboo species, true to their name, frequently take over fair-sized areas of land, as the rhizome ‘runners’ spread aggressively. Though slow-moving species do not spread much in unfavourable conditions, when running bamboo species do a ’sprint,’ they can cover several metres per year. The species that grow by clumping are much better behaved. These species’ rhizomes do not send out runners; instead, they gradually enlarge the root system and increase the height of the culm. The root system is typically enlarged by only 5-10 inches per year. Thus, they spread much more slowly than running species. “Clump-forming bamboo has striated, columnar shapes,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist. “These are best shown off against a dark background, such as a black fence, with only minimal underplanting with a few ground-cover plants like Ophiopogon planiscapus, or Ajuga reptans. “You can soften a line of bamboo by planting denser, smaller leaf plants in between, like Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata Robusta’. “Talking of robusta, one of my favourite bamboos is Fargesia robusta ‘Pingwu’, which has variegation down the length of its stems that alternate between pearly white and dark green.” Running bamboo species’ pattern of growth is primarily horizontal across land; clumping bamboo species’ pattern of growth is primarily vertical through space. The variety within bamboo is such that some differences between species are quite stark; consider that bamboo shoots of only some species are edible. Some bamboo species are not particularly eye-catching but make excellent construction materials while others are useless for construction but are highly decorative. Giant vs Dwarf Varieties At its extremes, bamboo is divided into ‘giant’ and ‘dwarf’ varieties. A very pretty and also hardy species, Pleioblastus akebono, grows to only 15-60cm. At the other extreme is Dendrocalamus giganteus aka ‘Giant Bamboo.’ Its leaves are about as long as Pleioblastus akebono is tall! This bamboo can attain a height of up to 35m. That’s a multiple of nearly 60 in the heights of the two species. Here are twelve popular types of Bamboo which can be grown in the UK, including some very special varieties, which have been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM): 1) Phyllostachys nigra (AGM) Black bamboo, as it is more widely known, is a spectacular plant. Growing to an eventual H4m x W4m, it certainly needs space to be shown off to its best. New growth is green, however, over time the canes turn a striking black that contrasts so well against its green foliage. With a tendency to spread in warmer climates, its rhizomes need containing to keep to size. Preferring a sunny and sheltered site on loamy soil, it is H5 rated meaning it will survive winter temperatures down to -10 to -15°C.2 2) Shibataea kumasaca (AGM) Ruscus-leaved bamboo is a small and clump-forming which grows to H1.5m x W1m over time. It is ideal for a large container or pot, as it will need to be contained if planted directly into the ground. Often grown as a low hedge or as ground cover, it looks equally good as a specimen plant, whether in a border or a container. Being H6 rated it is very hardy and will withstand temperatures as low as -15 to -20°C and can be sited in an exposed or sheltered position. Shibataea kumasaca grows best on clay or loam and as with most bamboos will not tolerate heavy or waterlogged soil. 3) Phyllostachys aurea Far better known as fish-pole bamboo, Phyllostachys aurea is a very large variety which can grow to an impressive H8m x W4m. Producing bright green canes which may turn yellow with age and long slender foliage, it can be clump-forming or spread and requires its rhizomes containing if grown in the ground. A hardy bamboo that is rated H6, it prefers a sheltered position and loam soil in either full sun or partial shade. 4) Fargesia nitida According to Kerri Dall from Scottish Bamboo: “Our favourite varieties of bamboos are the clumping Fargesia varieties, mainly because they are very well behaved and non-spreading. “There are also so many different coloured culms (canes) ranging from green to yellow to red and even black and purple”. Fargesia nitida or Chinese fountain bamboo is an elegant and arching bamboo that tends to grow tall, but not too wide. Growing to H4m x W1.5m, it has a clump-forming habit and should not need its roots curtailing. Due to its height and tendency not to spread, Chinese fountain bamboo is often used as a hedge or screening plant and will tolerate full sun, but grows best in part shade. Fully hardy and tough, F. nitida is H5 rated but has a delicate appearance due to its short and slender leaves. The canes begin green, but can turn purple with age adding to their stunning appearance. 5) Pseudosasa japonica (AGM) Widely known as Arrow bamboo, Pseudosasa japonica is a huge specimen that is fast growing and can grow to H8m x W4m. Upright in habit, Arrow bamboo is very tolerant and will cope with either an exposed or sheltered aspect and clay, loam or sandy soil. Hardy down to -10 to -15°C, it will survive a severe winter in most parts of the UK. Being very vigorous, its rhizomes must be constrained unless a large bamboo thicket is the goal. 6) Phyllostachys aureosulcata f. spectabilis (AGM) Or the far easier to say, Showy Yellow Groove Bamboo is a spectacular plant. Another large variety, it will grow to an eventual H8m x W5m and is best planted on loam or chalk soil. Less hardy than other bamboos, it requires a sheltered spot, but will still withstand a harsh UK winter. With yellow canes that darken over time and green grooves, this is a stunning bamboo and looks outstanding when grown near the contrasting P. nigra. With a suckering habit, it requires a barrier to contain its rhizomes to keep it under control. 7) Pleioblastus variegatus (AGM) Dwarf white striped bamboo or Pleioblastus variegatus is a smaller variety and one which is far better suited to courtyards or smaller gardens. Growing to only H1m x W1.5m, it is ideal for a large container or pot and grows best in a sheltered spot in full sun. Producing green and cream striped leaves up to 20cm long on thin green canes, it will add movement and sound to the garden as it gently moves in a breeze. A spreading variety, if grown directly in a bed or a border its rhizomes must be contained to curb its growth. 8) Fargesia ‘Red Panda’ Apparently, F. ‘Red Panda’ was once so hard to get hold of that it was given its elusive name. This is one of the favoured types of Kerri and the team at Scottish Bamboo. Thankfully Umbrella bamboo, as it is also known, is now easy to obtain as it is a sensational plant. With an upright habit and growth of up to H4m x W1.5m, it certainly makes an impact. Its green new growth turns orange then red over the course of a couple of years making a wonderful contrast to its green slender foliage. Although a clump-forming variety, a rhizome barrier is typically recommended to prevent its spread. However, Kerri argues: “Fargesia varieties can be grown in pots or planted into a garden border due to their well-behaved nature”. F. ‘Red Panda’ grows well in most well-drained soils and will cope with full sun or partial shade. 9) Sasa veitchii Also known as Veitch’s bamboo, Sasa veitchii is slightly unusual with its broader and more glossy leaves than most other bamboo. A vigorous bamboo, it spreads with ease and is a great plant for high ground cover. Come autumn, the leaves’ edges dry out producing a variegated appearance against the deep green centres. Growing to H1.5m x W1.5m it grows well in a container and will need restricting if grown directly in the ground. 10) Chusquea culeou (AGM) Chilean bamboo as it is better known is another unusual bamboo due to the fact that its canes are solid instead of hollow. Originating from South America it is less hardy than other bamboos, but will withstand temperatures down to -10°C (H4). An upright and graceful bamboo it produces dense clumps of green stems with small green leaves. Growing to a potential H8m x W2.5m it prefers a moist, but well-drained loamy soil and full sun to partial shade. Chusquea culeou can suffer some foliage damage due to harsh winter weather and requires a sheltered aspect to look its best. 11) Himalayacalamus hookerianus For real visual impact, one of the most striking has to be the Himalayacalamus genus which originates from the Himalayas. H. hookerianus or Blue bamboo is a stunning variety, which produces green new culms which take on a blue appearance before turning orange or yellow in maturity. Growing to H6m x W3m, it is a clump-forming variety and not considered invasive, however, installing a rhizome barrier may be prudent. Preferring shade to full sun, it grows best in moist and well-drained soil and requires a sheltered site. 12) Hibanobambusa tranquillans ‘Shiroshima’ For a variegated bamboo, H. tranquillans ‘Shiroshima’ or ‘inyouchikuzoku’ as it is sometimes known, is hard to beat. Producing dark green and cream striped leaves it has a bushy habit and will slowly spread if allowed. Growing to H2m x W8m, it prefers to be given full sun, will need a rhizome barrier to curtail its growth and is suitable for low screening and hedges. With hardiness down to -10°C and lower, it will survive all but the harshest winter weather and can be grown in an exposed site. References 1. Schröder, S. (2021, August 19). Where does Bamboo grow? Guadua Bamboo. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://www.guaduabamboo.com/blog/where-does-bamboo-grow 2. Phyllostachys nigra | black bamboo. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/12869/phyllostachys-nigra/details
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11 Silver Leaved Perennials You Can Enjoy For Years At A Time
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Artemisia schmidtiana 2) Brunnera macrophylla 3) Caryopteris clandonensis 4) Centaurea cineraria 5) Cynara cardunculus 6) Eryngium giganteum 7) Helichrysum petiolare 8) Heuchera 9) Lychnis coronaria 10) Santolina chamaecyparissus 11) Stachys byzantina References Add some metallic zip and zing to your garden’s display with these silver-leaved specimens. Silver foliage is a striking addition to any garden. Not only are the colours of the leaves unusual and eye-catching in their own right – especially when reflecting the sunlight just so – but they also serve to accentuate brighter flowers in their vicinity. Indeed, this ability to complement the surrounding specimens makes silver and grey plants a highly versatile ingredient in any outdoor display. When selected with an artful eye and placed in juxtaposition with other colour combinations, they can really bring the whole ensemble to life. By opting for perennials over annuals, you’ll also have the added advantage of enjoying the aesthetics of your arrangement for years at a time. As such, any of the following suggestions would make a delightful addition to your back garden, adding some wintry whimsy to spice up its palette. 1) Artemisia schmidtiana RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Silver Mound’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: SEMI-EVERGREEN FOLIAGE SEASONS: YEAR-ROUND As its cultivar common name suggests, Artemisia schmidtiana forms dainty hummocks of slender silver foliage. It grows up to 30cm in height and has a similar spread, making it great for minimalist ground cover. Whether utilised as part of a herb garden, rock garden or standalone specimen, ‘Silver Mound’ has a cushioning appeal that softens the edges and sharpens the appeal of any background it adorns. It’s semi-evergreen and will retain its foliage in warmer climes, providing great contrast to other perennials with pink, purple or red blossoms. As for its own flowers, A. schmidtiana does produce clusters of tiny yellow blooms in summer, but they add little in the way of aesthetic value. Instead, it’s best to prune them immediately to preserve the purity of its cool demeanour. 2) Brunnera macrophylla RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Jack Frost’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: DECIDUOUS FOLIAGE SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER There are few plants more distinctive than Brunnera macrophylla when it’s in its full pomp. Featuring oversized, heart-shaped leaves that have been unmistakably touched by the hand of ‘Jack Frost’, it’s an immediate crowd-pleaser in any environment. The main attraction is undoubtedly the foliage, whose generous proportions and silver surface edged and veined in green are enough to set it apart from most garden varieties. It does, however, also boast delicate blue blossoms in the springtime, which serve to emphasise its icy appeal even further. It’s a fairly resilient plant which will grow well in most soil types and in full or partial shade, reaching up to 50cm in height at its peak potential. “Brunnera macrophylla is a great choice for a shady spot,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Known for its spring flowers, Brunnera is also a great silver-leaved plant that covers the ground vigorously whilst being an attractive ornamental choice.” This makes it great for brightening up dim or dark corners, or else providing a pleasing contrast underneath taller and more colourful companions. 3) Caryopteris clandonensis RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Sterling Silver’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: DECIDUOUS FOLIAGE SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN The blue-green foliage of Caryopteris clandonensis, set off perfectly by its silvery tinge, makes this shrub a head-turner at any time of the year. However, it really comes alive in late summer and early autumn, when the bright blue of its blossoms adds another dimension to its appeal. It can grow up to 1m in height and around 1.5m in spread, making it perfect for positioning at the front of a sunny border. Alternatively, you could choose to play to its strengths and make a focal point of the whole plant, cultivating it in a pot or container in the centre of a patio or balcony. It does appreciate full sun, however, so make sure it has enough access to sunlight. For best results, prune it back ruthlessly once the blossoms have died away to ensure that they return with vigour the following year. 4) Centaurea cineraria RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Dusty Miller’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE TYPE: EVERGREEN FOLIAGE SEASONS: YEAR-ROUND Depending on the time of the day and the light in the sky, Centaurea cineraria can appear blue, green or grey. Whatever the dominant colour, this sprawling evergreen perennial is remarkable for the woollen texture of its leaves, as well as their eye-catching tints. In summertime, the display is enhanced by the appearance of purple flowerheads that are almost reminiscent of thistles. The bulbous form of the blooms contrasts pleasingly with the finely-divided lance shapes of the foliage, making for an attractive plant for beds, borders and gravel gardens. It does fine in most soil types as long as they enjoy excellent drainage, though it is demanding about the amount of sun it receives. Indeed, it can tolerate milder parts of the UK round the calendar, but those living in areas which suffer from colder winters should transplant it to a greenhouse or conservatory for the duration. 5) Cynara cardunculus RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Cardoon’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: DECIDUOUS FOLIAGE SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN Like Centaurea cineraria, Cynara cardunculus enjoys large, thistle-like blossoms of a bright purple in mid to late summer. However, the leaves of the two plants are wildly different, despite sharing the same greyish hue. Unlike its more intricate counterpart, C. cardunculus is defined by foliage which is spiny and spiky in outline and amply proportioned in size. Even a single leaf is capable of growing up to 1m in length! The plant as a whole, meanwhile, can reach 1.5m in height and 2.5m in spread, meaning it forms quite the focal point. Sometimes known as “prickly artichokes” (but more commonly as “cardoons”), these robust specimens are excellent for adding architectural intrigue to wild gardens, rear borders or raised beds. They also make attractive cut flowers, too. 6) Eryngium giganteum RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Silver Ghost’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: DECIDUOUS FOLIAGE SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN Commonly known as sea holly, this striking specimen continues the theme of thistle-like flowerheads. However, this time the blooms aren’t purple, but rather blue – and they perhaps look their best after flowering, when the dead blossoms add to the ethereal aesthetic of the plant. As such, deadheading this ‘Silver Ghost’ might be the most preferable strategy in the long term, since it will encourage stronger growth the following year, but it does sacrifice the impressiveness of its appearance in the short term. Given that it’s one of the shorter-lived perennials on this list, it might be best to enjoy its full glory while you can. In any case, it will do best in dry, well-drained soils, since it’s vulnerable to root rot in waterlogged environments. It also demands full sun in order to thrive – but it’s well worth getting the conditions right for the aesthetic impact it brings. 7) Helichrysum petiolare RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Goring Silver’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE TYPE: EVERGREEN FOLIAGE SEASONS: YEAR-ROUND Helichrysum petiolare is colloquially known as the ‘liquorice plant’, thanks to the faintly aniseed-like fragrance which accompanies it. But quite apart from its aromatic qualities, this trailing perennial is hugely popular for its delicately felted leaves. The furry texture and greyish silver surface of the foliage make it a neutral accompaniment to borders and flower beds. On the other hand, you could choose to foreground its showy qualities by placing it in a hanging basket or patio pot, where the trailing fronds of its stems will hang invitingly over the edges of its container. Small but perfectly formed, ‘Goring Silver’ is a less vigorous or invasive grower than some of its brethren in the Helichrysum family.1 This actually makes it far more versatile and appropriate in a wide variety of settings, offering great flexibility to gardeners. 8) Heuchera RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘CAN CAN’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: SEMI-EVERGREEN FOLIAGE SEASONS: YEAR-ROUND The Heuchera genus is packed full of evergreen perennial options in all shapes and sizes, many of which come with a silver hue to their foliage. ‘Can-Can’ is no exception, though it does differ from many of the options on this list due to its interesting contrasts in colour. The topsides of the leaves are the type of deep red you’ll fine in vineyards and wine cellars all over the world, with widespread silver marbling across their surface. Meanwhile, the underside of the foliage is a much brighter purple, creating a pleasing disparity that’s highly noticeable due to the undulating structure of the leaves. Green flowers join the party in midsummer but don’t add much more than the plant offers for the rest of the year and should be deadheaded immediately after dying – or perhaps even sooner if you prefer. 9) Lychnis coronaria RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Rose Campion’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: SEMI-EVERGREEN FOLIAGE SEASONS: YEAR-ROUND A short-lived perennial, Lychnis coronaria only really offers up much in the way of aesthetic appeal during the summer months. However, its loud contrasts and pollinator-attracting qualities make it worth the effort of cultivation. The plant features clumps of slender silvery stems, populated with furry silver leaves and set off by stunning magenta blooms in July, August and September. The conflict between the neutrality of the foliage and the garishness of its blooms makes for a show-stopping display, explaining why it’s popular around the country. Although a fairly hardy customer, it appreciates dryer soil and will produce brighter colours in its blooms if obliged. Those looking to propagate it should collect seeds in September and October, before planting them the following spring. 10) Santolina chamaecyparissus RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Pretty Carol’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: EVERGREEN FOLIAGE SEASONS: YEAR-ROUND Although it’s commonly known as cotton lavender, Santolina chamaecyparissus doesn’t wear the distinctive lilac garb that is synonymous with its family. Instead, this cultivar boasts ostentatious yellow blossoms that take pom-pom form, which stand out like a sore thumb against the powdery grey background of its foliage. It’s that contrast which sets S. chamaecyparissus apart from other garden shrubs, making it an ideal option for when a splash of bold colour is warranted. The blooms aren’t just popular with green-fingered enthusiasts, either; they also bring bees and butterflies to your garden in their droves. As such, it’s excellent as colourful ground cover, or as a gap-filler in spotty borders and beds. It can also do equally well in containers and pots and, given its vulnerability during the colder months, this planting strategy might be preferable to protect it in winter. 11) Stachys byzantina RECOMMENDED VARIETY: ‘Silver Carpet’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: EVERGREEN FOLIAGE SEASONS: YEAR-ROUND A hugely popular groundcover plant, Stachys byzantina is more recognisable by its common name, lamb’s ears. It has earned the moniker due to the fuzzy, oval-shaped leaves which offer year-round interest through their woollen consistency and cosmetic appeal. The ‘Silver Carpet’ variety pictured above is one of the few Stachys examples which rarely flowers, but this doesn’t mean it’s not a hit with pollinators and people alike. Indeed, it’s the woolliness of its foliage which attracts one particular bee more than others, which collects the fine fibres on the surface of the leaves to line its nest. Its evergreen nature, accompanied by its lack of blooms and its interesting texture, mean that ‘Silver Carpet’ is a favourite among those looking to bring mat-forming intrigue to the front of beds and borders. It’s also relatively hardy, so it requires little in the way of upkeep once established, as long as it’s provided with enough sunshine. References 1. Helichrysum petiolare (strawflower). (2022). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.114715
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Turn Your Comfrey Leaves Into A Fertiliser 'Tea' And Feed Plants Organically
IN THIS GUIDE Why Grow Comfrey? What Makes It A Good Fertiliser? How To Make Comfrey Tea Fertiliser How To Use Comfrey Feed Storage How Long Does Comfrey Tea Last? Alternative Methods References Comfrey is a ubiquitous plant in sustainable gardening, used in a wide range of different ways. One thing it is especially useful for is making a comfrey fertiliser, or liquid feed. Comfrey is an extremely useful plant, both when growing in the garden, and when chopped and used. In this guide we’ll explain exactly how you can maintain fertility in your garden and keep your plants happy by making a comfrey fertiliser or ‘comfrey tea’ to feed your plants in an organic, eco-friendly way. Before we do – it is worth exploring briefly exactly why comfrey is such a useful plant to grow in your garden; the benefits it can bring for you, wildlife with whom you share your garden, your garden soil and your plants. Why Grow Comfrey? There are a huge range of reasons why comfrey is such a useful plant to grow: Comfrey grows quickly, producing an abundance of organic material. That material can be used as a mulch and soil amendment. It can be used in the creation of no-dig garden beds, added to a compost heap, or, of course, used to make a liquid plant feed. Their quick growth and effective ground cover means that they can be good for stopping the ingress of grasses or weeds into areas where you do not want them. Comfrey plants don’t just grow quickly, they also have very deep tap roots which means that they are very effective ‘dynamic accumulators’. In other words, they are good at taking up nutrients from the soil (we’ll explore this more below).1 When the plant materials are gathered and used, or the plants die back naturally in winter, those nutrients return to the soil and can be taken up by other plants. When comfrey is in flower, they are beloved by bees and other insects. Of course, bees and other pollinators are essential visitors for many of the crops and other plants we grow. Other insects attracted to comfrey can also help in keeping pest numbers down – comfrey is a great plant for organic pest control.2 This plant is also a great addition to the diets of backyard chickens and other livestock. What Makes It A Good Fertiliser? Comfrey is, as mentioned above, great at gathering nutrients.3 It draws up nutrients through its deep roots and stores them in a more bioavailable form. It is this characteristic which makes comfrey great for use as a fertiliser. The nutrients can be harnessed by chopping and dropping the material a couple of times over the growing season. These can either be used as mulch or an ingredient in composting systems or raised beds – where the materials will break down pretty quickly. Or they can be used to make a liquid fertiliser to give certain plants a boost. “I’ve always made a lot of comfrey and nettle feeds,” shares Author and Gardener Tamsin Westhorpe. “This is definitely worth doing as long as you can stand the smell of rotting foliage!” Comfrey (all parts of the plant) contain the three key nutrients required for plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (NPK).4 Comfrey is said, in particular, to be a good dynamic accumulator of potassium, though it typically also includes plenty of other micro-nutrients in smaller amounts. The exact NPK profile of comfrey will depend on where it is grown, but a mulch or liquid feed made with this plant will be rich in potassium, which makes it particularly beneficial for flowering and fruiting plants. Potassium is important for plants in maintaining their lifecycles and it is especially important during phases of reproduction.5 How To Make Comfrey Tea Fertiliser The first step in making a comfrey tea fertiliser is, of course, choosing and planting your comfrey. One of the most commonly used types of comfrey in gardens in the UK is called Symphytum x uplandicum (Russian comfrey) ‘Bocking 14’.6 This is a sterile cultivar developed in the 1950s by Lawrence Hills, who founded the Henry Doubleday Research Association.7 We do recommend that you choose a sterile cultivar since comfrey, though useful, can easily spread, and wherever it grows, it can be difficult to eradicate due to its deep roots.8 Comfrey is a hardy plant, which can grow well in many gardens with very different conditions. For best results, it should be grown in a sunny or partially shaded or dappled shade site in deep, rich soil. Comfrey is typically harvested for a liquid feed twice in the growing season – once in June, and again in August. The comfrey can simply be chopped down, or mowed. Remember, however, while harvesting, that it may be beneficial to keep some flowering for the wildlife in your garden. Next you should: Chop the comfrey leaves, stems (and flowers where these have emerged) into smaller pieces, which will break down more quickly. Prepare a large bucket, barrel or other receptacle in which to make your liquid feed. It can be beneficial to choose a container which has a tap near the base, so you can draw off the liquid. It should also have a lid, since the comfrey tea will get very smelly! Fill the container with the chopped up comfrey leaves, packing them down to cram in as many as you can. Cover the comfrey with water, placing something on top to hold down the plant material. Then be sure to put the lid back on the container. Next, simply wait until the plant materials rot down into the water. This should take around 4-6 weeks. How To Use Comfrey Feed Run off the slurry and dilute it with water at a ratio of ten parts water to one part of this mix. This will give you a liquid fertiliser that will not be too strong for your plants. You can use this when watering your plants – I tend to fill a watering can with 1/3 of diluted comfrey tea with 2/3 water and use this on plants which will benefit from the potassium. You can also use the diluted mix as a foliar feed – spraying it onto your plants. Comfrey fertiliser can also be added to a composting system to pump up microbial content and nitrogen and aid in speeding decomposition. “When using for the first time, I’d suggest starting with a very weak mix and then check the plants for any ill effects that may look like burning, as too strong a mix can do more harm than good,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “If all is well after testing a weak mix, you can creep up to 1/3 comfrey tea to 2/3 water, just keep checking the plants for burning, as it can happen that mixes come out too strong.” Storage I tend to plan to use my first batch of comfrey tea in early summer, on summer crops, and the second batch in late summer or early autumn. Storing any liquid feed for a long time is generally not the best idea as it will lose nutrients over time. “Label containers that comfrey tea is stored in correctly,” Dan recommends. How Long Does Comfrey Tea Last? You can leave any remaining comfrey mix in the container in which it was made until spring, though typically, it is best to use it up in the autumn before starting fresh with a new batch the following year. You can also decant the mix and store it in tightly sealed bottles in a cool, dark place for later use. However, it will have a shelf life and is usually best used within around 4 weeks. Alternative Methods If you are pushed for time, you can also make a quick comfrey tea by steeping the leaves in boiling water for just 24 hours. Just leave the leaves in the water, then strain out the leaves and dilute the mix with the same quantity of water and use this to water your plants. Another alternative method is to pack the foliage into a covered container without water. The leaves should turn into a thick blackish goo which can be collected after a few weeks and diluted 1 part to 15 times as much water for use. References 1. Zarro, G. (2020, July 20). Breaking Ground with Dynamic Accumulators. Cornell Small Farms. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2020/07/breaking-ground-with-dynamic-accumulators/ 2. Comfrey: Its History, Uses & Benefits. (2022, June 30). Permaculture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.permaculture.co.uk/articles/comfrey-its-history-uses-benefits/ 3. Comfrey Fact Sheet. (n.d.). Aeronvale Allotments. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://aeronvale-allotments.org.uk/downloads/Comfrey_factsheet-01.pdf 4. Comfrey. (2023, January 10). Garden Organic. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/expert-advice/garden-management/soil/comfrey 5. Potassium for crop production. (n.d.). University of Minnesota. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://extension.umn.edu/phosphorus-and-potassium/potassium-crop-production 6. A survey of comfrey use. (2022, November 15). Garden Organic. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/what-we-do/citizen-science-and-research/members-experiments/a-survey-of-comfrey-use 7. Comfrey. (n.d.). Google Books. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Comfrey.html?id=HWTEOQAACAAJ&redir_esc=y 8. Comfrey – A Controversial Herb. (n.d.). Master Gardener. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.mastergardenersmecklenburg.org/comfrey—a-controversial-herb.html
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