Growing
There Are 10,000+ Azalea Varieties Out There - But These Are Our Favourites
IN THIS GUIDE 1) R. luteum 2) R. quinquefolium 3) R. schlippenbachii 4) R. viscosum 5) R. ‘Cecile’ 6) R. gibraltar 7) R. ‘Hino Crimson’ 8) R. ‘Purple Splendor’ 9) R. occidentale 10) R. ‘Delicatissimum’ 11) R. ‘Mother’s Day’ 12) R. ‘Fruit Salad’ 13) R. ‘Elsie Lee’ 14) R. ‘Schneeperle’ 15) A. ‘George L. Taber’ 16) R. ‘Addy Wery’ 17) R. ‘Iro Hayama’ 18) R. ‘Panda’ 19) The Encore Series Azalea Types Explained Evergreen Deciduous References Azaleas are prized in Japan and have been so since hundreds of years ago when gardeners cultivated them for Imperial gardens. By now there are over 10,000 registered or named varieties worldwide.1 Among the untold many thousands of varieties of Azaleas, we present a representative selection from the various groups, several of the most popular ones, and our favourites. “Due to the large number of Azaleas that have been hybridised and the many species available, there is an Azalea to suit every garden, from full sun to shade, from dwarf to large shrub,” shares Colin Skelly, who has almost 15 years of experience as a Horticulturist and Consultant. “Look out for the RHS AGM label for tried and tested plants in gardens or try something more rare and unusual.” 1) R. luteum COMMON NAME: COMMON YELLOW AZALEA NATIVE AREA: CAUCASUS TYPE: Pentanthera Attains a height of 2-3m and a spread of up to 2m. This is a Caucasus-region species naturalised in the UK. Classic funnel-shaped flowers are small at about 4.5cm and are a lovely buttery yellow and display long, prominent stamens. It is also very fragrant. 2) R. quinquefolium COMMON NAME: CORK AZALEA NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: DECIDUOUS A Japanese species that is grown as a shrub, this species can grow to be a tree up to 7m tall. It is also unusual both in its foliage and its flower. The leaves, of a normal size and colour, display a purplish rim. The small 3-4cm flowers are unusual in being pendent and bell-like. They have smooth, pure white petals with faint green spots on the upper three petals and they bloom in late April and May. 3) R. schlippenbachii COMMON NAME: ROYAL AZALEA NATIVE AREA: KOREA, JAPAN, RUSSIA TYPE: DECIDUOUS This is a species native to Korea, Japan and the Russian Far East.2 Commonly grown to 1-2m, this variety can reach an ultimate height of 5m; it is very cold-hardy. The foliage is of particular note as the leaves are red-bronze when they emerge and in the autumn present a stunning show in yellows, oranges, and reds. The marvellous flowers are unusually open, are about 6 centimetres, and have smooth petals. The gentle fragrance perfectly matches the gentle hue of a translucent pale pink. 4) R. viscosum COMMON NAME: SWAMP AZALEA NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Pentanthera RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This bushy plant is a species native to Eastern and South-Eastern United States.3 It usually grows to a height of about 2m and spread of about 1.5m. It is very cold-hardy. The foliage has autumn interest, presenting shades of yellow, orange and purple. The small, tubular-funnel flowers are only 2-2.5cm across and have narrow petals whose colour varies; they can be pure white, white with pink flecks and streaks, or some tone of pink. It is a profuse bloomer. Flowers have a spicy, delightful fragrance. 5) R. ‘Cecile’ COMMON NAME: CECILE NATIVE AREA: CULTIVATED TYPE: Knap Hill RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT The plant has a bushy habit and reaches about 2m in height and spread. The flowers are large at 8-10cm. These have beautiful, gently-ruffled petals of a soothing pink shade, often gently gradated, with a reddish throat and yellow-orange flare on the dorsal petal. Flowers bloom in May through June. Compare with ‘Berry Rose.’ 6) R. gibraltar COMMON NAME: GIBRALTAR NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Knap Hill (Exbury) RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT The plant reaches a height of 1.5-2m and spread of 1-1.5m. The petals with their curls and frills impart a pleasingly ruffled appearance to the flowers. The colour is rich and intense, from a flame orange to proper vermilion, often with a yellow tinge. Medium-sized, about 6cm flowers are fragrant. They bloom in May. 7) R. ‘Hino Crimson’ COMMON NAME: HINO CRIMSON NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Kurume RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This semi-dwarf attains a height and spread of about 1m. Foliage has some winter interest as it becomes reddish. Small, 4.5cm single form flowers with smooth, flattish petals bloom in May. They are a solid colour; an intense, thrilling hue of pinkish-red. 8) R. ‘Purple Splendor’ COMMON NAME: PURPLE SPLENDOR NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Evergreen Usually grows to 1-2m but can attain a height of 3m. It has a bushy and spreading habit; it is quite cold-hardy. Flowers are both large at about 8cm and also bloom profusely in May. The petals are smooth, while the colour is a rich shade of purple with a dark or red throat and a flash with freckles on the dorsal petal. 9) R. occidentale COMMON NAME: WESTERN AZALEA NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Pentanthera RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Though its 10-year height and spread is about 2m, this species can grow to several metres. Fully open, the funnel-shaped flowers present a star-like appearance. They are pure white, or white with pink streaks and tinges and yellow flares, or some pastel tone. The flowers are very special, being large at 10cm, sweetly fragrant, and blooming in late spring and early summer – June and July. 10) R. ‘Delicatissimum’ NATIVE AREA: EAST ASIA TYPE: Deciduous RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This variety has a compact, bushy habit and reaches a height and spread of 1-1.5m. Foliage provides some autumn interest. Trumpet-shaped flowers present a ‘delicate’ appearance, and are pale cream with a pale pink flush, a pink streak or sector, and a yellow flare. They are fragrant and bloom through June. 11) R. ‘Mother’s Day’ NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Kurume; Evergreen RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT A dwarf with a compact, mounding form of about 0.6m high and up to 1m wide. The leaves take on a bronzed tone in winter. The medium-sized flowers are about 6cm and are hose-in-hose or double. They are a solid colour; a brilliant Lipstick Red and bloom in May. 12) R. ‘Fruit Salad’ COMMON NAME: FRUIT SALAD NATIVE AREA: CULTIVATED TYPE: Deciduous The plant reaches 1.2-1.5m – the smallish flowers are about 5cm. They are funnel-shaped and present a star-like face. The petals are a vivid pink with streaks of deep pink and red, while the dorsal petal is a rich orange, with adjacent petals displaying light orange flashes. The scented flowers bloom in late June. 13) R. ‘Elsie Lee’ COMMON NAME: ELSIE LEE NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Knap Hill (Exbury) RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT A semi-dwarf variety that attains a height and spread of about 0.8m. Semi-double flowers with delightful, richly ruffled petals of a pale yet bright lilac-purple hue. Medium-sized, about 6cm flowers bloom in profusion in late May. 14) R. ‘Schneeperle’ NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Knap Hill (Exbury) Dwarf variety of only about 0.35m with a spread of 0.5m having a creeping, clumping form. The flowers are small at about 4cm and are in double form. Like a bridal veil they are snowy white but are embellished with a greenish-yellow-tinged throat. The petals have wavy edges and flowers bloom in May. 15) A. ‘George L. Taber’ COMMON NAME: George Taber Southern Indica Azalea NATIVE AREA: SOUTHERN INDIA TYPE: Southern Indica Grows to just over 2m tall and just under 2m spread. It is very heat tolerant and the flowers have a classic funnel shape and are large at 7-8cm. The smooth petals are a pale orchid hue with an intense rose-mauve flare and flecks on the dorsal petal. Flowers bloom in profusion in mid- and late-spring. 16) R. ‘Addy Wery’ COMMON NAME: ADDY WERY AZALEA NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Kurume This compact plant reaches a height of up to 1.2m. Bears small trumpet-shaped flowers of 4-4.5cm. They are a deep, rich vermilion to red; almost a solid colour bar slight gradation from the centre. Blooms profusely in late April through early May. 17) R. ‘Iro Hayama’ COMMON NAME: IRO HAYAMA NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Kurume RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This semi-dwarf variety has a mounding form and reaches a height and spread of about 1m. It bears small, 4cm trumpet-shaped flowers. The smooth petals are white gently gradating to a pale lavender or pale mauve. Flowers present an elegant, delicate appearance. Blooms in May. 18) R. ‘Panda’ COMMON NAME: PANDA AZALEA NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Evergreen RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Neither tubby nor black-and-white; rather, it bears the most delicate, indeed fragile-seeming, of Azalea flowers. This plant is a dwarf with a spreading habit that grows to only 30-40cm. The small flowers are only about 3cm. Petals are in an unusual imbricate form and are snow-white, appearing wispy or filmy, with the golden yellow of the anthers providing a strong contrast. It bears a profusion of flowers in May. 19) The Encore Series COMMON NAME: ENCORE AZALEA NATIVE AREA: CULTIVATED TYPE: Encore Encore is a patented brand of re-blooming Azaleas that were cultivated in Lousiana as recently as the 1980s.4 They produce flowers, sometimes abundantly, from spring clear into autumn, or produce blooms once in spring and again, often more profusely, in autumn. They are relatively heat-tolerant. Azalea Types Explained Evergreen Azaleas typically have a mounding form and are compact whereas deciduous ones are usually taller with less branching. Evergreen The evergreen forms bloom earlier in spring and do so profusely but the flowers are almost always unscented while the deciduous ones bloom in mid or late spring, with the flowers coming slower and less densely but typically having a sweet fragrance. Evergreen Azaleas, for the most part descending from sub-genus Tsutsusi, are divided into four groupings. Kurume Azaleas or Rhododendron obtusum Group Hybrids from Japanese species like R. kiusianum. They are dense, small plants, reaching just over a metre, and bloom in early spring, usually profusely. Many of the most desirable and popular evergreen Azaleas and RHS Award of Garden Merit recipients are Kurumes. Southern Indian Azaleas or Rhododendron indica Also hybrids and also descend from Japanese species and have nothing to do with India. They are less dense and bigger, attaining heights of over 2m. They bloom in mid-spring. They include exceptions like the ten-stamened ‘George Lindley Taber’. This group is further sub-divided into cold-hardy Southern Indian Azaleas which can be grown as garden plants, and greenhouse Belgian Indian Azalea, which displaced the former as the Azalea of choice in England. Kaempferi Azaleas The third group of ‘evergreen’ hybrids comprises of the Kaempferi Azaleas which are usually semi-evergreen. Like the Kurume Azaleas, these plants grow to about a metre but like the Southern Indian Azaleas they bloom in mid-to-late spring. Reblooming Azaleas The fourth and final evergreen group of hybrids are Reblooming Azaleas. They too share attributes with both ‘major’ groups, being similar to the Kurumes in plant size but similar to the Southern Indian Azaleas in flowers and foliage. This group is very attractive for blooming twice, once in spring and then again, usually more profusely, in autumn. Encore is probably the most well-known and popular producer of such Azaleas and is on the way to becoming a grouping of its own. Deciduous Deciduous Azaleas which mainly descend from sub-genus Pentanthera species are usually divided into four groupings. The oldest hybridisation of deciduous species are the ‘Ghent Azaleas’, which date from the 1820s.5 These descend from crosses of American species with the sole European species. These plants have a somewhat rounded form with a height and spread of about 2.5m. They are generally disease-resistant, robust plants; flowers are small and fragrant, and their double forms are renowned. Mollis Azaleas The Belgian-Dutch ‘Mollis Azaleas’ date from about 1840 and derive mainly from R. japonicum and not from R. molle, notwithstanding the (erroneous) nomenclator.6 They have a mounded form with a height of about 1.5m but a spread of nearly 2.5m. They are more cold-hardy, while their flowers are almost always unscented and the colours run through the orange-red spectrum. Knap Hill Azaleas The ‘Knap Hill Azaleas’ are a miscellany of hybrids that descend from both East Asian and American species as well as the sole European one. This group was bred by Waterer pere et fils from the 1850s onward. Varieties usually grow to about 1.5m but some attain heights of 2.5m. Spreads are typically from 2-3m. Flowers are distinctly larger and often have saturated hues in a wider spectrum from yellow through crimson, and include whites and pinks. Exbury Strain Finally, we have the ‘Exbury Strain’ of the ‘Knap Hills’ or the ‘Exbury Azalea’ Group that was cultivated in the 1920s, mostly deriving from the Knap Hills.7 These reach heights of 1-1.5m and are cold-hardy varieties. Flowers are large and have particularly deep and rich hues in the yellow to red spectrum. Seeds and flowers of this strain were exported to the United States, and now the Exburys are considered the most important grouping of deciduous Azaleas in American floriculture. It is to be noted that the above horticultural classification is an ‘Atlanticist’ one. Japanese, Chinese, and Korean horticulturalists and their respective floral trades have their own classification and groupings for Azalea cultivars. References 1. Azalea Society of America. (2018b, August 14). Learn about azaleas. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.azaleas.org/about-azaleas/ 2. Rhododendron schlippenbachii Maxim. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:333307-1 3. Rhododendron viscosum. (n.d.). Wildflower Center. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=rhvi2 4. S. (2022b, September 29). Encore Azaleas lead the way in LA. Encore Azalea. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://encoreazalea.com/news/encore-varieties-lead-multi-season-azaleas/ 5. 18. Ghent-azaleas. (n.d.). University of Bergen. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.uib.no/en/universitygardens/137155/18-ghent-azaleas 6. Rhododendron: The Hybrids / Azalea Hybrids. (n.d.). Trees and Shrubs Online. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://treesandshrubsonline.org/articles/rhododendron-the-hybrids-azalea-hybrids-deciduous/ 7. Exbury Azaleas – From History To Your Garden. (n.d.). Virginia Tech. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://scholar.lib.vt.edu/ejournals/JARS/v40n1/v40n1-cash1.htm
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Azalea vs Rhododendron - The Difference Between Them Explained By Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Differentiating Factors 1) Stamens 2) Flowers (Number & Shape) 3) Leaves (Texture & Size) References Though Azaleas and Rhododendrons are distinct plants, they are very closely related and hybrids between the two have arisen or been developed. Each of Azalea and Rhododendron used to be a genus of its own under Carl Linnaeus’s classifications.1 However, professional Botanists and Taxonomists got up to their usual mischief, re-classifying and re-arranging the genera and their species and confusing us poor lay gardeners! “It can be hard to keep up with botanical name changes, although, as with Azaleas and Rhododendrons, the previous names often still stick for gardeners and nurseryman,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist with 15 years of experience. “I don’t get frustrated though because the point of botanical classification is to group plants together that are related in origin. “This was previously done using only the features of the plant, such as leaves and flowers. “Botanists are now able to use DNA, which has revealed some surprises – plants that look alike but aren’t related and vice versa.” But then, growers and gardeners themselves were also partly to blame because all too often they would not, and still do not, distinguish between the two plants and, instead, use the names ‘Azalea’ and ‘Rhododendron’ interchangeably, though horticulturalists were and are usually more disciplined. A long struggle to subsume Genus Azalea within those Rhododendrons was waged from 1834 to the early 1900s, when the resistance ended.2 A scattered insurrection continues. “Azaleas and rhododendrons belong to the same vast genus of rhododendron,” explains Katrina Clow from The Scottish Rhododendron Society. “There are two subgenera of azaleas; one group is deciduous and the other are small-leaved evergreens.” So as it stands, Azaleas are subsumed within Genus Rhododendron, a member of Family Ericaceae or the Heather Family.3 These plants are well-known to be acidophilic. Azaleas are classified under two sub-genera, Pentanthera and Tsutsusi.4 The former sub-genus comprises about 15 species that are deciduous; these are native to the southern USA; the latter sub-genus includes about 80-120 species that are evergreen, and these are native to a swath of East Asia.5 “The deciduous azaleas are a lovely group, stunning in bloom with a wide colour range, fragrant and with good autumn colour and easy to manage,” Katrina shares. “They are later to flower so may escape May frosts, and they are easy to propagate, from woody cuttings or offshoots at the base too. “Evergreen azaleas make good houseplants and tolerate indoor conditions better than other rhododendrons.” As for the hybrids and cultivars, there are untold thousands of them; as a result, many evergreen Azaleas are grown in the United States. Differentiating Factors Rather than lay out lengthy descriptions as to how to tell apart Azaleas and Rhododendrons, we provide a handy chart for quick lookup and differentiation. Factors are listed in descending order of decisive importance. We do not include blooming season as a factor because this varies and overlaps so much by variety, climate, and geographic location. Azalea Rhododendron Number of Stamens Usually 5 but up to 10 10 or more Flowers Usually Solitary/Terminal Almost Always in Trusses Leaves – Texture Soft and Smooth Leathery or Scaly Underneath Leaves – Size Smaller and Thinner Bigger and Thicker Flower Shape Tube-Funnel-Shaped Bell-Like There are other points of difference but those are more subjective and are also liable to overlap and to exceptions. Here are some visual comparisons of each: 1) Stamens An Azalea will usually have five-to-ten stamens; Rhododendrons will typically have ten or more. Azalea Rhododendron 2) Flowers (Number & Shape) Flowers of an Azalea are usually solitary; Rhododendrons will form in trusses like the flowers of a tomato plant. In terms of flower shape, Azalea flowers are tube- or funnel-shaped; Rhododendrons look more like the shape of a bell (though this isn’t the most prominent tell-tale sign). Azalea Rhododendron 3) Leaves (Texture & Size) The leaves of an Azalea are typically smaller and thinner than those of a Rhododendron plant. You may also find that Azalea leaves feel soft and smooth to the touch; while Rhododendrons are often leathery or scaly on the underside. Azalea Rhododendron References 1. Azaleas and Rhododendrons. (n.d.). University of Arkansas. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/Azaleas-Rhododendrons-05-01-2020.aspx 2. Rhododendron and Azalea Classification Information. (n.d.-b). The American Rhododendron Society. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.rhododendron.org/classification.htm 3. About Rhododendrons. (n.d.). Rhododendron Species Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://rhodygarden.org/our-plants/rhododendrons/about-rhododendrons/ 4. Rhododendron and Azalea Classification Information. (n.d.-c). The American Rhododendron Society. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.rhododendron.org/classification.htm 5. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2023a, January 25). Azalea. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/azalea
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Most Camellias Will Be Fine Over Winter - But Make Sure With These Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Different Types Of Camellia When Growing In Pots When Growing In Other Locations Camellia can often survive winter outside in most of the UK. However, it is important to consider the hardiness of the particular camellia you are growing, how you are growing it, and your location – when determining whether your camellia will cope in its current position year-round. When it comes to how to care for camellias in winter, here are some of the key things you need to think through: The type of camellia you are growing and its RHS hardiness rating. Whether you are growing your camellias in pots or in the ground. The winter conditions you should expect in your particular garden and in the precise location where the camellia is growing. We discuss each of these in more detail below: Different Types Of Camellia Several different types of camellia are commonly grown in the UK. The most commonly grown are C. japonica, C. x williamsii, and C. sasanqua. C. japonica and C. x williamsii typically have a hardiness rating of H5, meaning that they are hardy in most places in the UK, even during extreme winter conditions. However, plants with this hardiness rating might not always survive very exposed locations or central or northern locations. Evergreens like camellias can also experience frost damage. C. sasanqua is not as hardy and has a hardiness rating of H4. This means that plants like it may suffer foliage damage and stem dieback in harsh winters in cold gardens. Winter care, therefore, will usually require more thought if you are growing a particularly tender type of camellia. You may need to think about moving tender types to a more sheltered and warmer location, or wrapping the shrub in horticultural fleece or some reclaimed fabric to protect buds and early flowers. Patricia Short, UK-representative of the International Camellia Society, recommends wrapping some bubble wrap or other form of protection around camellia shrubs during extremely cold winters. When Growing In Pots One important thing to remember is that whichever type of camellia you are growing, plants will be more vulnerable to the cold if they are growing in pots or containers in your garden. The roots of plants growing in containers are more vulnerable since they are up and out of the ground. Therefore, especially if you are growing a more tender type (but even with hardier camellia in some locations), you might need to move container-grown plants to a more protected and sheltered spot during the winter months. “If you are growing camellias in containers, do not let the compost become frozen in the winter,” says Lorraine Summers, from Trehane Nursery. “During prolonged cold spells, insulate the container with bubble wrap around the outside or, if possible, bring the pot under cover. “Depending on the size of the plant, flowers can be protected from frost on cold nights by covering them in fleece.” You might even consider placing them in a cool conservatory or greenhouse, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “A roof is often all that is required to avoid damage in cold weather for otherwise hardy plants like camellias. “A shed, garage or porch; just think where you would try and snuggle up if you were locked out in your garden at night!” You may also group containers together for protection, or wrap pots with insulating materials (as Lorraine suggests above) to stave off the cold. When Growing In Other Locations Camellia do need to be placed in a sheltered spot, especially through the winter months. Even if you live in a warmer and more southern area, choosing the right placement can be key, whether growing in the ground or in pots. I’ve found that it is best not to place camellias in a location where it gets early morning sun, as this can lead to more damage after a frost. It’s also important to remember that winter wet can be damaging, as well as winter cold, so always ensure good drainage and make sure excess water can drain away freely. Placing a camellia in the right position, out of frost pockets and early morning sun, and in free-draining soil can help you make sure that your camellia makes it through the winter well, wherever you live. Just remember that in colder areas like mine in Scotland, you may well need additional protection to get a camellia safely through the winter months.
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'A Long, Arduous Task That Offers Minimal Reward' - Why You Needn't Deadhead Camellias
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Deadhead Camellias? How To Deadhead Camellias Camellias are plants that can respond well when lavished with a lot of care, but equally, they can be relatively low maintenance when included out in the garden as part of a mixed perennial planting scheme. One thing you might be wondering about if you grow camellias is whether you should deadhead, and if so, how. Here is all the information you need about deadheading camellias: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs (optional) When To Deadhead After flowers fade Do You Need To Deadhead Camellias? Deadheading is one of those jobs in your garden that can take up some time but is often not strictly essential. As Patricia Short (Membership Representative at the International Camellia Society) explains, deadheading can improve the appearance of any plant – and camellias are no exception. However, when it comes to deadheading camellias, busy gardeners should understand that this is not something that you definitely have to do. Deadheading camellias will not improve flowering the following spring, nor will it aid the plant in any important way. However, it can ensure that your plant still looks good even when the flowers fade and begin to brown. “Large camellias will produce hundreds of flowers per plant meaning that deadheading would be a very long, arduous task that offers minimal reward aesthetically,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “For smaller camellias, such as those in pots, it might be worth the effort, particularly if they are placed in a prominent place.” If you are someone who loves to keep everything in the garden looking immaculate and you have some extra time on your hands, then you might wish to deadhead camellias. Deadheading will keep the plant looking good and prevent the debris from spreading far and wide. How To Deadhead Camellias Deadheading camellias can be a time-consuming job if you have a larger camellia or even several camellia shrubs on your property, but it certainly is not a difficult one. To deadhead camellias, simply: Take a clean, sharp pair of secateurs, or gardening scissors if you prefer, though you can also simply use a finger and thumb. Using your finger and thumb, snap off each faded flower head where it joins the stem. Take care not to damage buds or developing growth just below the flower. You can place the flowers in your composting system unless they show signs of disease. And the easiest way to display camellias? “Float them” says Patricia. “Camellias’ red and pink blue, but not orange, so if you have a blue bowl, floating them in that is particularly pretty.” As you can see, this is a very easy and simple job, but you really don’t need to make this a priority. If you’re an avid gardener like me, there are plenty of other things to do in your garden that will be a better use of your time.
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17 Favourite Camellias Chosen With Help From The International Camellia Society
IN THIS GUIDE 1) C. japonica 2) C. sasanqua 3) C. chrysantha 4) C. japonica ‘Akashigata’ 5) C. sasanqua ‘Plantation Pink’ 6) C. sasanqua ‘Winter’s Snowman’ 7) C. x williamsii ‘E.G. Debbie’ 8) C. sasanqua ‘Apple Blossom’ 9) C. japonica ‘Nuccio’s Gem’ 10) C. japonica ‘Magnoliaeflora’ 11) C. japonica ‘Margaret Davis’ 12) C. japonica ‘Eleanor Martin Supreme’ 13) C. japonica ‘Higo Okan’ 14) C. japonica ‘Masayoshi’ 15) C. saluenensis 16) C. sinensis 17) C. reticulata References Though Camellias are native to a limited range in the tropical and sub-tropical regions of East Asia and South-East Asia, they have been hybridised in Europe and the United States.1 A century ago Camellia flowers used to be just about the most fashionable in Europe. As popular as Camellia plants still are in many a European country, they are even more popular in the American South and California.2 As a result of their popularity, there are 230 Camellia species, whilst hybrids and cultivars number over 20,000!3 “When asked which is his favourite camellia, my husband always answers: ‘the one I saw last’,” says Patricia Short from the International Camellia Society. “My favourite variety? I couldn’t possibly choose. “I love the different flower forms of camellias, from single purity to formal elegance. Also, some cultivars have a scent, which is a true delight”. Camellia ‘Inspiration’ “I have Camellia ‘Inspiration’ in my own garden as it flowers from January to April and is always covered in flowers every year,” shares Lorraine Summers from Trehane Nursery. “Betty Foy Sanders is striped and that’s lovely as well. San Dimas is a lovely dark red with yellow stamens. C. japonica ‘San Dimas’ “There are too many to choose from!” The most famous species, and the ones from which most hybrids and cultivars descend, are C. japonica and C. sasanqua. Underneath we review these two species plus more varieties chosen for their marvellous blooms. 1) C. japonica Native to Southern China, Japan, and the Koreas, growing in nature on wooded hillsides.4 Its typical height is 5-6m though it can attain much taller heights. The distinctly leathery, glossy leaves are dark green. The showy flowers have a relatively robust look about them; they comprise of six or seven petals and are white or in tones of rose-red. They are 5-9cm in diameter, while some cultivars’ flowers are up to 12 centimetres across. It blooms from the middle of winter to the end of Spring. It is not a profuse bloomer but flowers are relatively long-lasting. 2) C. sasanqua Native to Japan, it too is found in nature on wooded hillsides.5 Its typical height is up to 4m and seldom gets very tall. The serrated leaves are glossy and of a deep-green hue. The flowers, though showy, are less so than those of C. japonica. They have a more delicate look, and the five to eight petals are usually ruffled or fluted. Flowers are 5-7cm in diameter, while some cultivars’ flowers are up to 10cm across. Blooming time is early Autumn to mid-Winter – they are very profuse bloomers but a flower lasts only two or three days. Clearly, C. japonica and C. sasanqua are nature-made complements of one another. Because sub-species and cultivars in the main inherit the parent species’ characteristics, these two species’ derivatives complement each other wonderfully well. 3) C. chrysantha This is not a cultivar but a distinct species that is native to China and Vietnam. Unlike the other Camellias listed below, this one’s as common as hen’s teeth. “Camellia chrysantha is now on my watch list as I’ve never seen it in cultivation before,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant with over 13 years of experience. “Whilst I like the tried and tested, there’s nothing like trying something rarer and more unusual and watching people try to identify your prize specimen!” If you can find a plant it will extend your garden’s Camellia blooming season clear into April. On top of that, the semi-double flower will introduce possibly the rarest colour for a Camellia to your collection: yellow! 4) C. japonica ‘Akashigata’ A medium-sized shrub though its flowers are anything but. Up to 12cm in diameter, they are among the largest but that is not this plant’s only attraction. The semi-double form flower has a somewhat delicate appearance and is gorgeously coloured; it ranges from pastel pink to deep, rich rose-pink. 5) C. sasanqua ‘Plantation Pink’ Of upright habit and robust appearance, this plant bears single to semi-double flowers whose fragile appearance contrasts with that of the plant. The stamens form a central yellow disk which sets off the soft pink petals. Quite often they are not exactly pink but a tone of bluish-pink that is unusual and highly appealing. 6) C. sasanqua ‘Winter’s Snowman’ The plant is large, the flower fragrant, and the stamens distinctly fewer and less prominent than in most varieties, and often hidden by a folded or ruffled petal. This clever concealment leaves the pure, snowy white of the semi-double flowers to make an even greater visual impact. 7) C. x williamsii ‘E.G. Debbie’ Could just as well be named ‘Pink Perfection’. Carrying a hue that is the very definition of pink and boasting perfect symmetry in its somewhat prim-looking formal double flower, it projects both softness and grace. The upright and neat habit of the plant only adds to the overall perfection. 8) C. sasanqua ‘Apple Blossom’ One of the under-rated Camellia varieties. There is also a C. japonica ‘Apple Blossom’. Against a backdrop of darker-than-usual glossy leaves, the semi-double bloom looks absolutely ravishing. It is of a gradated tone, starting snowy white near the centre, developing pink tinges and tints, and finishing with rose pink at the edges. 9) C. japonica ‘Nuccio’s Gem’ Causes the word ‘perfection’ to come to mind again, or the word ‘stunning’. One scarcely pays heed to the shrub’s height or habit because this formal double is a pure, snowy white from centre to edge. Even an imperfect specimen may deceive you into thinking that you are admiring a flower sculpted from Parian marble. 10) C. japonica ‘Magnoliaeflora’ A cultivar dating from well over a century ago; it is of medium height and spreading habit. The semi-double flowers are among the loveliest; to begin with they present an unusually symmetrical aspect. However, their unique loveliness derives from their very pale pink-purple-blue tones. 11) C. japonica ‘Margaret Davis’ Of upright habit with glossy bronze-green foliage behind a dazzler of a flower. In peony form, it is creamy white with rose-red edging as if stroked with a fine brush, and the red ‘bleed’ into the white makes the bloom even more arresting. This edging is present on all the petals and not just the outer ones. 12) C. japonica ‘Eleanor Martin Supreme’ An exhibit – for those who say that the Camellia flower presents a ‘sculpted’ aspect, Eleanor Martin Supreme shows off the ‘marbling’. This unusual and beautiful American cultivar bears large semi-double bicoloured flowers that display white ‘marbling’ (or dappling) on a rose-pink background – or is it the other way round? 13) C. japonica ‘Higo Okan’ Now if marbled flowers are not your cup of tea but bi-coloured flowers are, try this evergreen shrub, the Camellia of the Samurai. As the stamens are even more numerous and prominent than usual, this single-form flower effectively has a central disk in yellow, snow white petals, and an edging or bordering of varying thickness in shades of hard pink to scarlet. 14) C. japonica ‘Masayoshi’ Another bi-coloured variety but of an entirely different kind. The plant is smallish and compact, and yet again the flowers are at the other extreme, being 12cm wide. Of semi-double form, the flowers display delightful bleeds, flecks, stripings, dapples, and splashes of white on a red background. Other important species include: 15) C. saluenensis ‘Bartley Pink’ 16) C. sinensis ‘Chinsingganzai’ 17) C. reticulata References 1. Camellia japonica. (n.d.-c). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=287331 2. Bender, S. (2022, November 13). The Complete Guide To Camellias. Southern Living. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.southernliving.com/garden/camellias 3. Camellia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved May 2, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:39017-1#children 4. Camellia japonica. (n.d.-d). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:828524-1 5. Camellia sasanqua. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:927409-1
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Short On Space? You Can Grow Choisya In Pots, But You'll Need A Large Planter
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Choisya In Pots? Choosing A Container Compost Requirements Potting Up Potted Choisya Plant Care References Choisya shrubs can work well in many gardens and are a popular choice, but if space is short or soil is unsuited to these plants, can you grow choisyas in containers? If you’re wondering the same thing, then this article’s for you. Can You Grow Choisya In Pots? The good news is that choisya can work very well in pots. Cultivars vary in their height and spread, and smaller and more compact varieties are best suited to container cultivation. ‘White Dazzler’ for example, is one of the smallest options on offer, growing into neat and compact mounds less than 1m in height and spread, making it a particularly good option if you are looking to grow a choisya in a pot. ‘Royal Lace’ is another compact cultivar well suited to small space and container growing. It is a hybrid cultivar with golden to lime green lacy leaves and white flowers. However, while slower growing and smaller choisyas are ideal for container growing and will require less pruning, other choisyas can also do perfectly well in pots of sufficient size. Choosing A Container Choisya shrubs are usually purchased as pot grown specimens. I find it is typically best to repot the choisya plant that you will grow in a container long term into a container that is just a little larger than the one in which it came. Ultimately, a mature choisya will need a large container, such as a half-barrel or another larger pot or planter. I’ve found that choisya will thrive in terracotta or ceramic pots, with good drainage holes at the base. Remember, these shrubs cannot tolerate water-logging, so good drainage is essential. A heavier pot with good thermal mass is a good idea because it can help to protect a choisya through the coldest months. Compost Requirements When potting up a choisya that will remain in a large pot for the long-term, you should fill it with a loam-based growing medium. The RHS recommends using 2/3 John Innes no. 3 and 1/3 peat-free, multipurpose compost, though you might also make your own homemade equivalent.1 Just remember that the mix for choisya should create conditions that remain reasonably moist while allowing excess water to drain away. Any mix that might promote waterlogged conditions should be avoided. Potting Up Though you can pot them up at any time, choisyas that are potted up in the spring should have the least trouble in establishing successfully. When potting up a choisya, remember to make sure that the shrub is placed in its new pot so that the growing medium sits at the same level on the plant that it was at in the previous pot. Place some of the growing medium in the base of the new container, place the plant, and then gently firm more of the growing medium around the sides. Water it in well but make sure that excess water can drain away. It is also a good idea to place a mulch of good quality homemade compost or other organic matter around the top of the container, but make sure that the mulch is clear of the base of the plant stems, as it could cause rotting to occur. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? These shrubs work best when planted in their own containers as stand-alone specimen plants, but remember that you can group containers to derive benefits from having plants placed close to one another. Grouped pots may also fare better during the winter months. Potted Choisya Plant Care Choisya in containers should be placed in as sunny and sheltered a spot as possible. While many choisyas can cope with a degree of shade, in most of the UK they will tend to do best when provided with as much sun as possible. Remember, choisyas are typically H4 hardy, meaning that when growing in pots, it is especially important to grow them in as warm and sheltered a spot as possible so that they can survive the winter months. Plants in pots are more susceptible to winter cold and may be more likely to experience frost damage and damage to the roots in a particularly chilly spot or during a particularly severe winter. In some areas, it may be best to move a pot-grown choisya undercover, or into the lee of a wall, during the coldest and wettest part of the year. Water choisya in containers regularly during the settling in period and in dry, warm weather, but take care not to overwater and make sure that excess water can always drain away freely. Reduce watering as the weather cools, and make sure that plants don’t sit in a wet growing medium over winter. In early spring each year, remove the top 5cm of the growing medium from your container and replace it with fresh potting mix. Replenish the mulch of homemade compost or other organic material, again, taking care not to mound this around the base of the plant. If flowering is poor, you can also consider feeding with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed in the spring. Pruning is typically carried out in mid-spring, or immediately after flowering if flowering occurs around this time. “When pruning choisyas for aesthetic reasons, make the pruning cut above a node, where the group leaves emerges from the stem, to avoid unsightly bare stems,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant with 13 years of experience, including 5 at The Eden Project. “Ideally, this will be below the leaves of adjacent stems so that the pruning cut will not be obvious. “The stem will regrow and not be noticeable from the point of cutting but this may take a few months. “Try to avoid cutting back further than is strictly necessary to keep a natural shape to the shrub.” Deadheading for aesthetic reasons can be undertaken after the flowers have finished, cutting back faded flowering stems to the next healthy leaf bud. Keep an eye on your choisya and repot or prune to restrict the size if the plant outgrows the container or growth/flowering seems poor. Look out for roots emerging from the holes at the base of the pot. Growing any shrub in a container takes more work and maintenance than growing it in the ground, but growing choisya in containers is not too much of a challenge and I consider them to be an excellent choice for a container garden. References 1. How to grow choisya. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/choisya/growing-guide
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Pruning Hydrangea: It Can Look Better And Produce Healthier Growth After A Trim
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Hydrangeas? When To Prune Hydrangea How To Identify Your Hydrangea Equipment / Tools Hydrangea Pruning For Beginners Deadheading Pruning Mopheads & Lacecaps Pruning Climbing Hydrangeas Pruning Other Varieties References Hydrangeas are among the most popular shrubs for UK gardeners, but getting the best from your hydrangea involves understanding how and when to prune them. The most important thing to understand about pruning hydrangeas is that they do not always need to be pruned regularly. However, as you will discover in this article, pruning can often be beneficial – both for aesthetic reasons and for your plant’s health. This simple guide will help you understand why pruning can sometimes be beneficial. Why Prune Hydrangeas? Hydrangeas are great low-maintenance plants; you do not always have to give them a lot of care and attention for them to bloom well and look good. Certain hydrangeas can largely be left to their own devices and may not need to be pruned at all. However, I find it is often best to prune hydrangeas, since even those that do not strictly need it can often look better and produce healthier, new, vigorous growth after a trim. Pruning can help you to remove any damaged material and keep the plants more compact and less straggly. Flowering can also sometimes be improved by judicious deadheading and/or pruning of certain types. When To Prune Hydrangea When you should prune hydrangeas very much depends on which type and variety you are growing. Shrub hydrangeas (the type I grow in my garden) are usually pruned in late winter or early spring, but climbing hydrangeas are usually pruned in the summer after they have flowered. How To Identify Your Hydrangea As mentioned above, hydrangeas are usually divided into shrub types and climbing hydrangeas. These are categorised according to the habit of their growth. Shrub types have bushy forms while climbing hydrangeas vine and grow up against a wall or fence. Climbing Hydrangea Here are some of the most common shrub types grown in UK gardens: Big-leaf hydrangeas, which include mophead and lacecap types, as well as the H. serrata. Panicle hydrangeas, like H. paniculata. Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens, for example). Oakleaf hydrangeas, with H. quercifolia being one of the most popular. Equipment / Tools You do not need a lot of equipment or tools to prune hydrangea. All you need is a sharp and clean pair of secateurs or gardening shears and perhaps a wheelbarrow, which will make it easier for you to transfer the cut material to your compost heap. Hydrangea Pruning For Beginners If you are new to hydrangea pruning, follow the steps outlined below: Identify your hydrangea. Determine when the best time is to prune that particular type. According to RHS-Qualified Horticulturist Colin Skelly, “the RHS recommends early spring for pruning shrub Hydrangeas, except for H. macrophylla and H. serrata which it recommends to prune in mid-spring.”1 Look over the shrub and carefully remove any dead, damaged or diseased material. Cut back to the first undamaged pair of buds on healthy living wood. Decide whether more material should be pruned away in order to improve the health and vigour of the plant, improve flowering, restrict size or improve appearance. When it comes to pruning hydrangea, remember that less is often more. You can always prune a little more in future, but you can’t put back what you cut off, so err on the side of caution if you are a little unsure. “You’ve got to be sure that when you’re cutting a hydrangea bush, you only cut a third of the pleats off each year because not all, but most hydrangeas flower on the wood of the previous year,” says Floral Designer Judith Blacklock. “So, if you remove all of the flowers, it won’t flower the next year.” Deadheading Both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas can usefully be deadheaded. Mophead Hydrangeas With lacecap types, which are generally hardier, you can cut back faded flower heads after they bloom to the second pair of leaves below. This can be beneficial because it prevents the flowers from going to seed, so the plants won’t expend energy on this and can instead focus their energy on healthy root formation and foliage growth, as well as flowering the following year. Mophead types, however, are somewhat more tender. If you live in a milder area, you might consider deadheading immediately after flowering. Generally speaking, I would argue it is best to leave the spent flower heads on the shrubs over winter. Especially in northerly climes like my garden in Scotland, spent flowers provide some frost protection for the tender new growth which emerges from below them early in the year. You can then cut off the dead flower heads in early spring, cutting back to the first healthy and strong buds below them. Pruning Mopheads & Lacecaps In terms of pruning, mopheads and lacecaps can be treated as one group, as they are among the hydrangeas which you do not necessarily have to prune at all. However, it can be beneficial to cut off any dead, damaged or diseased material. You can also keep these plants flowering well by cutting out one or two of the oldest stems on mature examples. Prune these off close to the base. I have used this technique in the past to encourage new growth that flowers well and may be used to rejuvenate an older shrub. If you have a large, sprawling and very straggly example of one of these hydrangeas, you can also consider hard pruning. Cutting off all of the stems at the base should reset the shrub and encourage healthy new growth. However, it is important to note that you will not have flowers in the year when this is undertaken and new stems will only start to flower once more the following year. “A technique I have used to avoid losing flowers for a year,” says Colin Skelly, “is to remove one-third of the oldest stems every year for 3 years, allowing for regeneration whilst keeping some flowers during the process. “After which you can resume deadheading and just removing straggly stems and the occasional older stem to maintain vigour.” Pruning Climbing Hydrangeas The key to pruning climbing hydrangeas is to cut back judiciously, leaving as much of the top of the plant unpruned as you can. Most flowers will bloom higher up, so you can remove overly long and straggly growth lower down as long as you do not go overboard higher on the plant. Cut back overgrown stems immediately after they have flowered and get rid of any damaged growth, or any growth showing signs of health problems. If you have a very large and overgrown specimen, it may tolerate hard pruning in the spring. However, pruning back too severely will certainly reduce flowering, not just in the current season but likely over the next couple of summers. If you do desire to reduce the size of a climbing hydrangea considerably, aim to do so gradually over 3-4 years so you do not lose flowering entirely. Pruning Other Varieties H. paniculata and H. arborescens can also often be largely left to their own devices. The only essential pruning job is removing any dead, damaged or diseased material in spring. However, these types will do best and flower more prolifically when you prune them back each year to a healthy framework of well-spaced branches. Each spring, cut back the growth of the previous year to a pair of healthy buds. Pruning hard to the lowest pair of buds will produce larger flower panicles on strong, upright branches. You can create a framework around 25cm high, or aim for a taller specimen by creating a framework of branches around 60cm high. Oakleaf hydrangea and other hydrangeas such as H. aspera will usually only need light pruning in spring to get rid of any dead material, or the odd unsightly long stem. References 1. How to grow shrubby hydrangeas. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/hydrangea/shrubby/growing-guide
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How Master Horticulturist Dan Ori Uses Low Growing Shrubs To 'Knit His Planting Together'
IN THIS GUIDE Shrubs For Spring Interest Shrubs For Summer Interest Shrubs For Autumn & Winter Interest References I find that low-growing shrubs can be very useful to create ground cover in beds or borders or to create low boundary hedges between different parts of your garden. When chosen carefully they can be very useful, adding interest and appeal to your garden all year-round. To narrow down your choices somewhat, the first things to think of include: Climatic conditions in your garden. Your soil type and the properties of the soil where you live. Whether you are looking for a small shrub for full sun, partial or deep shade. You will also need to consider where and how exactly you would like to grow your low-growing shrubs. I typically use low-growing and small shrubs in the garden for: Creating low bed edging, boundaries between different ‘garden rooms’ or low hedges. Bringing structure in the middle or towards the front of beds or borders. Growing in containers to bring interest to a patio or courtyard area. “When planting low-growing shrubs in your garden, you have a great opportunity to knit together the existing planting by using a selection technique called ‘something different, something the same'” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “For example, if you have a Weigela florida ‘Nana Variegata’ in your border, you could then plant the blue flowered variegated leaf Vinca major ‘Variegata’ near it. “After, plant something else blue or variegated to match the Vinca major and something pink to match the Weigela florida.” Once you have decided how you would like to use small shrubs and where you will be growing them, you can begin to think about how the shrubs might look throughout the year. Consider when they have their main season of interest, and also, what the shrubs might offer for you, wildlife, and other plants growing in your garden. Any list of low-growing and small shrubs must of course be highly selective, but here are fifteen of my favourite picks for interest and utility throughout the year: Shrubs For Spring Interest 1) Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. repens COMMON NAME(S): Creeping Blue Blossom HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; Alkaline or neutral pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 2.5-4m spread Ceanothus can be a useful plant because it is not only beautiful, with stunning blue flowers, but it also fixes nitrogen.1 This can potentially be beneficial for other plants growing close by. It is also a great ground cover plant for sheltered and sunny positions, as it grows well on slopes and can reach up to around 90cm in height. I have a large Ceanothus at the foot of my garden and it is absolutely swarming with bees when in flower (usually at the beginning of June). While this usually only lasts a few weeks, it typically flowers again in late September – though I must admit this bloom is far less showy than its early summer show. 2) Cytisus × beanii COMMON NAME(S): Bean’s Broom HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread In the Fabaceae plant family, Bean’s broom is another nitrogen-fixing plant.2 It is a semi-prostrate shrub which can be grown even in areas with poor soils, in free-draining conditions in full sun. With its green, linear leaves and bright, cheerful yellow flowers that bloom in late spring or early summer, it can be useful for a range of tricky garden spots. 3) Genista tinctoria COMMON NAME(S): Dyer’s Greenwood HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another nitrogen-fixing shrub is commonly known as ‘Dyers greenweed’. As the name suggests, this plant is also useful for a good quality yellow dye obtained from its flowers and young shoots.3 Placing the plants around 45cm apart can give good ground cover. It is also not only ornamental but also great for wildlife in your garden. It grows well in light and even poor soil in a sunny position and is H6 hardy. 4) Skimmia japonica ‘Nymans’ COMMON NAME(S): Skimmia ‘Nymans’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread There are a number of smaller Skimmias that can be great choices if you are looking for a small and low-growing shrub. ‘Nymans’ is one great option to consider. It has narrow, elliptical, dark green, evergreen foliage and bears clusters of white flowers in spring, as well as bright red berries in autumn. It is great for attracting wildlife to your garden in moist but well-drained soil or growing medium in full or partial shade. 5) Vinca major ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Variegated Greater Periwinkle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Full Shade / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread This evergreen sub-shrub has beautiful, variegated foliage and violet flowers which open from spring to autumn. It is H6 hardy in the UK. It is ideal for a huge range of situations, from full sun through to full shade and can spread to create an excellent ground cover. For example, I would typically use Vinca major as a good choice for creating cover below deciduous trees. Shrubs For Summer Interest 6) Caryopteris × clandonensis ‘Heavenly Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): Bluebeard ‘Heavenly Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread This beautiful shrub with small blue flowers that bloom in the late summer and into autumn is a great choice for a sheltered and free-draining site in full sun. It is H4 hardy and is a good pick for attracting pollinators and other beneficial insects to your garden. ‘Heavenly Blue’ particularly will thrive in a small courtyard garden, in a container, or in a position near a sunny, warm wall. 7) Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ COMMON NAME(S): English Lavender ‘Hidcote’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Lavender is one of the best-known low shrubs. It can be perfect in full sun and free-draining conditions, for creating bed edging or for growing alongside pathways. Lavender is wonderful for wildlife and also has a wide range of uses inside your home. 8) Ruta graveolens ‘Jackman’s Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): Rue ‘Jackman’s Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Rue can be an excellent companion plant for fruit trees, fruiting shrubs, and roses, amongst others. It will grow in any moderately fertile and well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade, and is also H5 hardy. ‘Jackman’s Blue’ is one popular cultivar to consider. It has traditionally been thought of as good for repelling certain pest species which is why it is commonly used as a companion plant.4 9) Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Erectus’ COMMON NAME(S): Rosemary ‘Miss Jessopp’s Upright’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Rosemary is of course a well-known Mediterranean culinary herb. It can also be useful, like lavender, for making low hedgerows, and can be beneficial as a companion plant in certain situations. It thrives in full sun, in free draining conditions, and is H4 hardy. 10) Thymus vulgaris COMMON NAME(S): Common Thyme HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; Alkaline or neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another small shrub which is also a culinary herb is thyme. There are many different cultivars and types to choose from. Thyme can often be a great choice for the front of beds or borders, and for creating ground cover in a sunny and free-draining spot. Shrubs For Autumn & Winter Interest Winter heathers are other small shrubs which can be wonderful in a range of settings, flowering at a time of the year when there are often fewer blooms available. They add winter interest to your garden and also bring benefits for early pollinators. Here are my five favourites: 11) Erica x darleyensis ‘Darley Dale’ COMMON NAME(S): Heather ‘Darley Dale’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Winter / Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Darley Dale’ is one attractive cultivar to consider. It has pink and white tipped foliage in spring, and pink flowers borne from late winter into early spring. Grow it in full sun, in well-drained soil or growing medium. 12) Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ COMMON NAME(S): Spindle ‘Emerald Gaiety’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread A great shrub and foliage plant for full sun or partial shade, Euonymus fortunei offers beautiful rounded leaves with white margins, which are pink-tinged in the winter. It is H5 hardy and can spread to create an excellent ground cover. Tolerant of clipping, this shrub is one of my favourites as it can also make a great formal low hedge. 13) Gaultheria procumbens COMMON NAME(S): Checkerberry HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; Alkaline or Acid pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This small evergreen shrub, also known as wintergreen, and by a range of other names, has leathery leaves, fragrant when crushed, which take on a reddish blush in winter. The plant has small bell-shaped flowers in white or pink in summer, followed by bright red berries. This is an excellent plant for ground cover in moist but well-drained acidic or neutral soil in full or partial shade, and it is H5 hardy. This shrub is also great for wildlife. 14) Mahonia aquifolium ‘Apollo’ COMMON NAME(S): Oregon Grape ‘Apollo’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread This is a compact cultivar of the shrub known as ‘oregon grape’. It has leaves which take on a somewhat purplish hue in winter and bears bright yellow flowers in late winter and into early spring, which are followed by edible berries. A great choice for full or partial shade, this small shrub works very well in a forest garden like mine or in a woodland setting. 15) Potentilla fruticosa COMMON NAME(S): Shrubby Cinquefoil HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread H7 hardy and able to cope with a wide range of conditions, shrubby cinquefoil can be a great choice for full sun or partial shade. With flowers that are borne in early autumn, it can be great for pollinators and other wildlife. This plant can work well as an informal low hedge and some forms work well as ground cover. Of course, these are just a few of the many, many options for low-growing and small shrubs that you could consider, but perhaps they may help you find inspiration for your own garden. References 1. Russell, S., & Evans, H. (1967, June). The Nitrogen-Fixing Capacity of Ceanothus velutinus. Oxford Academic: Forest Science. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://academic.oup.com/forestscience/article-abstract/12/2/164/4709415 2. Wheeler, C., Helgerson, O., Perry, D., & Gordon, J. (1987, April). Nitrogen Fixation and Biomass Accumulation in Plant Communities Dominated by Cytisus scoparius L. in Oregon and Scotland. JSTOR. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.jstor.org/stable/2403800 3. Dyeing with Dyer’s Greenweed. (n.d.). Wild Colours Natural Dyes. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/greenweed.html 4. Tirreell, R. (1973, July 29). Rue and Tansy Protect Crops As Natural Insecticides. The New York Times. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.nytimes.com/1973/07/29/archives/rue-and-tansy-protect-crops-as-natural-insecticides.html
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5 Must-Grow Dwarf Hydrangea Cultivars For A Narrow Border Or Garden Bed
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. quercifolia ‘Munchkin’ 2) H. macrophylla ‘Rio’ 3) H. paniculata ‘Little Lime’ 4) H. quercifolia ‘Pee Wee’ 5) H. macrophylla ‘Mini Penny’ Hydrangeas are a very popular flower with tons of cultivars, making them a versatile and attractive addition to pretty much any garden. Some types also have the interesting tendency to change the colour of their petals depending on soil pH, which is a great “did you know” to impress people visiting your garden. Thanks to their versatility, many gardeners like to select their preferred hydrangea varieties in terms of size. Big, bodacious blooms are beautiful, for sure, but some of the hydrangeas’ finest moments come from its dwarf cultivars: those sporting more delicate and dainty blooms that are sure to delight. Dwarf hydrangeas are versions of bigger cultivars purposely bred to be smaller, growing to a lower height at maturity with more petite blooms. If you’re working with a small outdoor space, say a balcony, where there’s no soil, or you want the visual charm of a hydrangea contained in something more manageable, like a pot, dwarf cultivars make a lot more sense. “Dwarf hydrangea cultivars make a great choice for a pot or for a narrow border or bed,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “However, their requirement for moisture remains, so ensure that the pot size and compost type are sufficient to hold enough moisture on hot days.” These five beautiful dwarf hydrangea varieties will bring colour and visual interest to even the smallest garden: 1) H. quercifolia ‘Munchkin’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Munchkin’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: acidic / neutral pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered This bushy, rounded dwarf hydrangea cultivar sports a compact shrub with foliage that moves to a nice deep red in autumn. The season of interest is later in the year than some plants, with the main floral bloom happening in late summer. This cultivar will grow to a maximum height of about 1m, with a spread of around 1.5m if left to grow into a bush. It’ll take between 5-10 years to reach this size. ‘Munchkin’ isn’t fussy, and will do well in clay, loam, or sandy soil as long as it is moist and well-draining. 2) H. macrophylla ‘Rio’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Rio’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered If you prefer a hydrangea with a rich blue bloom, the Rio could be for you. Reaching a maximum height and spread of about 90cm, it’s very much a dwarf variety, but the large flowers give it a distinctive character. This cultivar prefers well-drained soil and won’t thrive if left with wet feet. It likes at least six hours of sunlight each day but also needs shade, especially in hot summer sun. ‘Rio’ does well as a container hydrangea, so it’s great if you’re working with a small space. 3) H. paniculata ‘Little Lime’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Little Lime’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Green, cream and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: acidic / alkaline pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered It’s easy to see where ‘Little Lime’ gets its name. Lime green flowers progress into creamy white and then light pink as the year passes by, bringing a pleasant and unusual colour palette to your garden. ‘Little Lime’ reaches a maximum height and spread of about 120cm: bigger than some other dwarf varieties, but still very much more diminutive than the biggest hydrangea bushes. Plant somewhere with full sun or partial shade in moist, well-drained soil. 4) H. quercifolia ‘Pee Wee’ NAME: Oak-Leaved Hydrangea ‘Pee Wee’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered This cultivar is visually captivating, with green-lobed leaves that turn a rich red as autumn sets in surrounded by panicles with white florets that develop a pink hue on the same timescale. With a maximum spread of about 1m in each direction over five-ten years of growth, the ‘Pee Wee’ is another mid-sized dwarf variety. It will grow well in clay or loam soil, as long as it’s moist with good drainage. The cultivar enjoys full sun or partial shade and will look great alongside an array of other flowers thanks to its colour palette. 5) H. macrophylla ‘Mini Penny’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Mini Penny’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered There are a handful of colours available for this dwarf hydrangea cultivar, lending it a little more versatility. Eventual colour will be influenced by soil pH regardless of how they’re sold, so be aware of this before getting too firmly set on a particular colour! As a deciduous hydrangea variety, the mini penny will lose its leaves in autumn and winter, before gaining new growth in the spring. It’s a repeat bloomer though, so you can rest assured that it will return year on year. All of the flowers above are visually stunning, generally easy to take care of, and versatile enough to find a place in pretty much any garden or outdoor space. Hopefully, the five cultivars here have either helped you to decide which one to incorporate into your garden, or inspired you to investigate other dwarf hydrangeas on offer.
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