Growing
'Light My Fire' - Discover These Award-Winning Hydrangea Varieties
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. Miss Saori 2) H. macrophylla ‘Hobergine’ 3) H. macrophylla Early Blue/Early Pink 4) H. macrophylla ‘Garden Romance’ 5) H. macrophylla ‘Hot Red’ 6) H. macrophylla ‘Red Baron’ 7) H. macrophylla Glam Rock 8) H. ‘French Bolero’ 9) H. macrophylla ‘Bavaria’ 10) H. macrophylla ‘Shining Angel’ 11) H. macrophylla ‘Light My Fire’ 12) H. macrophylla ‘Black Steel Zaza’ References “The first five letters of the plant’s name tell you most of what you need to know about these plants – hydra,” says Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist. “They need water – and lots of it! If your soil is a little on the dry or sunny side, I would not recommend one of the Hydrangea macrophylla varieties to avoid disappointment. “Instead, I would strongly recommend Hydrangea paniculata cultivars. These have, in my experience, a much better capacity for surviving drier spells. “Plus, if they get out of hand, they can be pruned harder than most of the H. macrophylla types. “H. paniculata ‘Vanille Fraise’ has to be one of my favourites. Its frothy flowers are elongated, turning from pastel pink near the stem to a white pointed tip.” Underneath we introduce twelve outstanding hydrangea cultivars. We present a mix of both established classics and up-and-comers and also strike a balance between the ‘natural’ blues and ‘natural’ pink-reds. All of these plants are hardy between H4-H5. 1) H. Miss Saori NAME: Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Miss Saori’ has to open this list because it is a Chelsea Flower Show winner, taking top honours in 2014.1 It is a mophead sub-type. Atypically, it bears flowers on both old wood and greenwood stems. The flowers are double form and are just pinkish-white with each sepal picotee-edged with rich pink, not infrequently with attractive flushing and ‘bleeding.’ It flowers from mid-summer to mid-autumn. It even provides foliage interest as the leaves display burgundy-red colouration in spring and autumn. 2) H. macrophylla ‘Hobergine’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Hobergine’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink, purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Hobergine’, even by hydrangea standards, is a wonderfully hue-changing cultivar. Its flower-heads, though smaller than average, are brilliantly-coloured. Though their default tone is a pinkish purple, they will readily shift to lilac or pink with comparatively minor changes to soil pH. Also, the hue will be richer and darker the more sun the plant gets, and will be more pastel and subdued the less the sun. It bears flowers during summer into autumn and grows to nearly 1.2m. 3) H. macrophylla Early Blue/Early Pink NAME: Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink, blue, purple, green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer-Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Early Blue/Early Pink’ is another cultivar whose floral colours strike that balance between red-pink and blue. The lush flower-heads open to a lilac blue but quite soon sport a light but rich purple colour. This variety’s flowers are especially quick to respond to changes in soil pH. This variety produces flowers from relatively early in the summer nearly all through the season. It attains a height of about 1.2m. 4) H. macrophylla ‘Garden Romance’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘GARDEN ROMANCE’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Garden Romance’ is aptly named, for this lacecap’s flower-heads are not as full as many others, but are more delicate and refined. More pertinently, the flowers are a tender sweetheart pink hue with whitish centres of variable size. Its long flowering season extends from May to October and it attains a height and spread of up to 1m. 5) H. macrophylla ‘Hot Red’ NAME: Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Hot Red’ is probably a bit of a misnomer because this variety’s intensely-hued flowers are more like a hot purple-magenta with lighter centres. It has relatively large, lush flower-heads which start flowering in mid-summer and continues until mid-autumn. It attains heights of just over 1m. 6) H. macrophylla ‘Red Baron’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Schöne Bautznerin’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Red Baron’ produces large flower-heads that are unusually full and rounded. They are of a lustrous rose red hue that can turn to purplish and bloom during summer. It reaches a height of just over 1m. 7) H. macrophylla Glam Rock NAME: Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink, green, purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, chalk; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Glam Rock’ is a variety that produces marvellously multi-coloured flower-heads. The flowers are red-pink to pink-red with the sepals variably exposing their natural green colour in small touches and bigger splashes from the tips. The flower-heads have a blue eye courtesy of the true flower. It blooms from mid-summer to mid-autumn and reaches a height of about 1.2m. 8) H. ‘French Bolero’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘French Bolero’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; acidic / neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m height, 0.5-1m spread ‘French Bolero’ is a very floriferous variety. The large flowers are pitched to purplish-pink of the gentlest, softest shade with individual flower-heads hovering towards either pinkish or bluish. It is quick to shift colour to pink or lilac albeit of the most delicate shade. It blooms through summer to early autumn and reaches a height and spread of about 1m. It has a habit of spreading further than its height, giving it an unusual form. 9) H. macrophylla ‘Bavaria’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Bavaria’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink, blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Bavaria’ is a mophead sub-type and the flowers are a remarkable hue of near-indigo. The colour fades near the edges which have a broad white border, providing an extraordinary contrast. This variety blooms during summer into early autumn. It has a height and spread of up to 1.2m. 10) H. macrophylla ‘Shining Angel’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Shining Angel’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink, blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; acidic / neutral pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Shining Angel’ (Black Diamonds series) needs no acid-alkaline changes as it produces multi-hued flowers on its own steam. It bears flowers in different shades ranging from soft blue-violet through purple to red-magenta. This fantastic variety also boasts a long flowering season, covering summer and most of autumn. 11) H. macrophylla ‘Light My Fire’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Light My Fire’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Light My Fire’ is a mophead sub-type with more open, flatter flowers than most, and which are borne in very full flower-heads. The brilliant bi-coloured flowers are an orange-red and sunny yellow near and at the centres, displaying attractive veining and fading where the colours meet. It blooms for most of the summer and into early autumn and reaches up to 1.2m in height and spread. 12) H. macrophylla ‘Black Steel Zaza’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Black Steel Zaza’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink, purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Black Steel Zaza’ (Black Steel Series) is marked, like other cultivars of this series, by its ebony-black stems. Young flowers of this series are lime green and develop colour as they mature. Zaza’s flowers range from lilac-blue to purple in a medium shade. It flowers throughout summer up to early autumn and grows to about 1m. References 1. Hydrangea macrophylla MISS SAORI (‘H2002’). (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/shows-events/virtual-chelsea/plant-of-the-decade/2020/hydrangea-miss-saori
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How To Plant And Grow Hydrangeas - A Sheltered Spot And Regular Watering Is A Must
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Garden Hydrangeas Planting Guidelines Where To Plant Repotting / Transplanting Plant Care & Growing Tips Soil Requirements Watering Feeding References Hydrangeas are those pretty chameleons of the plant kingdom that red-shift or blue-shift their flowers’ hues depending on the soil pH. These long-lived perennials are mostly deciduous and bear richly-coloured flower-heads over long blooming seasons. They occur in sedate as well as arresting tones of colours ranging from reddish pink to blue, often with rather differently coloured flowers on the same branch. “I love Hydrangeas because they are so useful in floral design work, particularly in big installations,” shares Floral Designer Judith Blacklock. Overview Botanical Name Hydrangea Common Name(s) Hydrangea Plant Type Shrub Native Area Asia and Central / South America Hardiness Rating H5 (evergreen species H4) Foliage Deciduous or evergreen Flowers Corymb clusters of flowers with 4-5 petals When To Plant October, November When To Prune March, April, November Hydrangea is a flowering plant that is represented by an immense number of varieties that reliably produce lush corymbs of dainty flowers in many gorgeous shades, from soft cream to vivid purple. They bloom during summer and autumn. The hydrangea genus numbers roughly 80 species plus several hundred cultivars.1 A majority of the flowering garden plants commonly referred to as ‘Hydrangeas’ descend from H. macrophylla, while H. paniculata, H. aborescens and H. serrata are three other species that are parents to popular garden plants. Garden hydrangeas should not be confused with climbing hydrangeas which are, you guessed it, climbers. Several varieties derived from H. paniculata grow to be small trees, while a few others stemming from species like H. quercifolia make great bushes and hedges. H. paniculata In this article we focus on hydrangea, the deciduous bushy shrub that typically attains heights of 50-150cm. “A key point to bear in mind with Hydrangeas is they require plenty of moisture to grow well, as stated by the plant’s name, which comes from the Greek word Hydra, meaning water,” explains Gardener and Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “Therefore, in warm weather, regular watering is a must or you can install an irrigation system.” Garden Hydrangeas What one might call ‘Garden Hydrangeas’ are classified into several groups. The popular and most commonly-grown ones in the United Kingdom are Hortensia Hydrangeas. They derive from H. macrophylla and are further sub-divided into mophead and lacecap types. In the United States, Oakleaf Hydrangeas, which derive from H. quercifolia are among the most popular. Panicle Hydrangeas Panicle Hydrangeas, which descend from H. paniculata, are also grown on both sides of the pond. Hydrangeas enjoy a well-deserved reputation as the chameleons of the plant kingdom. The chameleonic ones descend from H. macrophylla and the colours of their flowers shift between red-pink for soils with alkaline pH to blue for soils with acidic pH. They go purple for pH levels in between, with the bloom colour able to be influenced by you, the gardener. In nature, the parent species’ flowers occur in colours within this same range. The flowers occur in dense, usually rounded, corymbs or flower-heads. The ‘flowers’ are composed of four sepals in the softest lilacs through to the most vibrant reds, and they include bicoloured blooms as well. H. macrophylla varieties, or Hortensia Hydrangeas, have especially attractive foliage. The leaves are of brilliant, rich green shades and are beautifully ‘cut’ as they display quite a decorative serrated margin and a fine oval to elliptical shape. Add to all these attributes hydrangeas’ low maintenance needs, their floriferousness, and their long flowering season, and it is easy to see why these plants have never experienced a dip in popularity. Planting Guidelines Hydrangeas are commonly bought in the form of potted plants. You can leave them in the container they came in, transplant them, or re-pot them. Where To Plant The ideal location for these plants will bring them sun in the morning and shade or filtered sunlight in the afternoon. Hydrangeas are generally best sited in a sheltered spot; specifically, they should be sheltered from the North wind. A layer of mulch will keep the soil temperature stable and thereby protect the roots from the ill effects of both high and low temperatures to which Hydrangeas are quite sensitive. Repotting / Transplanting The best season to transplant or re-pot is a month or two after the flowering season is over, which would be sometime in autumn. The best time to do it is in the morning. Potted plants should be potted on about every three years as a general rule, or when the roots become visible through or in the drainage hole at the bottom. The plant should be re-potted to the next-bigger size pot. To transplant, prepare a hole in the soil about as deep as the container that the plant is in and nearly twice as wide. After removing the plant with the soil from the pot, ensure that the roots are not root-bound. If they are, gently spread them out but this should be done quickly as hydrangeas should be re-potted or transplanted quickly and efficiently. Spread the roots and backfill the hole, taking care that the soil line is the same as it was in the container and not lower. Give the transplanted (or re-potted) plant a deep watering. Plant Care & Growing Tips Soil Requirements The best soil for Hydrangeas is a rich loam composed of sand, chalk and clay amended with organic compost. The soil should drain well but retain moisture, which may be accomplished by adding vermiculite to the soil. Hydrangeas will do well in widely varying soil pH; however, a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is considered ideal.2 In this range a given variety’s flowers’ hues will stay true to type and not veer toward either red-pink or blue. Varieties that bear purplish flowers and multi-hued flowers will also perform very well. Watering These plants need deep and thorough waterings during the growing season. About twice a week is sufficient. The soil should stay just moist, especially in summer. When the top centimetre of soil feels dry, it is time to water again. Feeding Hydrangeas may be fertilised once a year. Do so in spring just when the plant has started to put out leaves. Use a conventional balanced fertiliser or alternatively, simply apply organic compost or (a lighter application of) organic manure. Where feeding Hydrangeas is concerned, the saying ‘less is more’ ought to be kept in mind. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.-f). Hydrangea species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/GH/Hydrangea 2. Williams, T. (2012, September 20). Hydrangea blooms turn colors based on soil pH levels. CAES Newswire. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://newswire.caes.uga.edu/story/4542/blue-pink-or-lavender.html
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These 8 Named Berberis Varieties And Cultivars Are Highly Valued By Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Berberis vulgaris 2) B. darwinii 3) B. thunbergii 4) B. aristata 5) B. buxifolia 6) B. darwinii ‘Compacta’ 7) B. x lologensis ‘Apricot Queen’ 8) B. thunbergii f. atropurpurea References Berberis, also known as ‘Barberry’, is an easy-to-grow shrub that is native to many countries across the world. Here in the UK, there are a number of named varieties and cultivars that are grown extensively due to their ability to grow with ease in our mild climate. “Berberis species and cultivars make versatile garden plants, from compact forms for smaller gardens through to large shrubs, all offering both early flowers and autumn berries,” says Colin Skelly, Horticultural Consultant. “Some even display stunning autumn colours and can also be left unpruned or clipped, making them suitable for a range of garden styles. “My personal favourite is Berberis darwinii for its vibrant orange spring flowers and edible blue berries in autumn.” Here are some favourites you may find interesting to grow: 1) Berberis vulgaris Berberis vulgaris is known as the common barberry. It grows wild through much of Europe and is naturalised here in the UK and northern Europe. It is cultivated for its fruits in a number of countries. Traditionally, the berries have been used in jam making and in Iran, are commonly used as currants in rice pilaf.1 2) B. darwinii B. darwinii is one of the two main parents for cultivars in the UK and a very popular garden and hedging shrub here. It is native to southern Chile and Argentina and naturalised in many other places.2 Growing to an eventual height of 3-4m (or even taller) it is a thorny evergreen which bears stunning orange flowers in spring which are followed in summer by purple-black (edible though rather acidic) berries. This plant takes its name, of course, from Charles Darwin, who discovered it in 1835 during the voyage of The Beagle.3 3) B. thunbergii B. thunbergii is the other main parent for many UK Berberis cultivars. It is also known as Japanese barberry, Thunberg’s barberry or red barberry. Native to Japan and east Asia, it is widely naturalised elsewhere and is common in UK gardens.4 It is a smaller shrub that typically grows to 1m tall and around 2.5m wide. Its leaves typically turn a glorious red in autumn, and it also bears its red fruits at this time of year. Pale yellow flowers appear in the spring – unlike other Berberis, this one bears its flowers in umbels, not racemes. 4) B. aristata B. aristata is another evergreen shrub, hardy to UK zone 6 and not frost tender. It is also known as Indian barberry or Chitra and is native to the Himalayas. It flowers in around May and also produces edible berries which are commonly dried and used like raisins in India. 5) B. buxifolia B. buxifolia is also known as Magellan barberry. It is native to South America but has occasionally naturalised in Britain.5 It is hardy to UK zone 5 and is not frost tender. Again, it has edible fruits, and some say that these are the best flavoured of the South American barberries. Green unripe fruits can also be used like gooseberries in pies etc. There are plenty of other barberries – but the above are all interesting options to consider – both for aesthetic reasons and because these are the varieties with the most edible berries. For both visual appeal and edible berries, B. darwinii is highly recommended. For the greatest year-round visual interest, B. thunbergii would be our top pick – though the berries on this are technically edible, however, they do not taste very good. Top cultivars to consider include: 6) B. darwinii ‘Compacta’ A more compact cultivar with beautiful flowers and edible berries. 7) B. x lologensis ‘Apricot Queen’ A hybrid of B. darwinii with stunning flowers. 8) B. thunbergii f. atropurpurea Incredibly easy to grow, with beautiful foliage. References 1. Focus On Culture: Barberries. (2015, October 11). Polyglottando. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.polyglottando.com/?cat=30 2. Berberis darwinii. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:273235-2 3. Berberis darwinii. (n.d.-b). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/berberis-darwinii 4. Berberis thunbergii. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:107136-1 5. Berberis buxifolia – Magellan Barberry. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Berberis+buxifolia
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These Are The Lilacs Recommended For Containers By Master Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Lilac In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing Your Compost Potting Up Syringa Potted Lilac Care References Lilac is an attractive shrub, and although it only blooms for a brief period, it is great for wildlife – and the flowers are actually edible too.1 Syringa cultivars can make great choices for many gardens, but if you don’t have much space, or can only grow in containers, you might wonder whether you can grow lilac in pots. Can You Grow Lilac In Pots? “Lilacs can theoretically be grown in large containers, but they are an aggressive growing plant when in good health and vigour,” says David Gressley, Board Member at the International Lilac Society. The important thing to understand is that there are many different lilac cultivars to choose from. These often come from the common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, but can also be derived from other lilac species. Some cultivars grow very large, up to around 7m tall and wide. However, the good news is that there are also many much more compact options, and many of these are excellent choices for small gardens, or, indeed, for container cultivation. Some compact lilac cultivars that could be good choices for containers include: S. Flowerfesta series This compact lilac is S. meyeri, and grows into an upright deciduous shrub. It has panicles of flowers in different colours (depending on the particular choice from this range) in spring/early summer. It is also H7 hardy. S. ‘Josee’ This bushy, rounded shrub has matt leaves that are oval to heart-shaped. In the late spring and intermittently through to late autumn, it produces dense sprays of lavender-pink flowers. It repeats flowers most reliably in cool climates and is H6 hardy. S. ‘Minuet’ Slower growing and with a dense, rounded form, this lilac is S. prestoniae. It has oval green leaves, and is a floriferous varietal, with pink buds that open to paler pink blooms, on erect to nodding panicles. Syringa ‘Minuet’ is H7 hardy. S. meyeri ‘Palabin’ Another bushy and slow-growing lilac that is H5 hardy. This option has broadly ovate, dark green leaves and bears upright panicles of small, fragrant flowers with a lilac-pink hue in late spring or early summer. “Because my soil is acidic, I can’t grow the large S. vulgaris cultivars that I would like to in my garden,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “To overcome this, I purchased S. meyeri ‘Palibin’ to grow in a container. Although it is smaller lilac it is now 1.5m height and width, so still needs a large pot and plenty of water in the summer. “Through annual pruning and re-potting every 2-3 years, it stays around this size and healthy, but bear in mind the eventual size of ‘small’ lilacs and make sure you have the space to accommodate them.” S. ‘Red Pixie’ This is a compact lilac with spreading branches. The leaves are small, and of a mid-green hue, turning yellow in autumn. In late spring, and often again in late summer or early autumn, this shrub bears sprays of scented flowers which open from red buds to deep pink blooms, which fade to a paler pink as they mature. These types rarely exceed 1.5m in height and width, so are much better suited to container cultivation, and are H5 hardy. Choosing A Container Even smaller lilac cultivars will usually require a reasonably large container. Typically, when growing a lilac shrub in a pot, you will need to choose one that is at least 60cm in diameter. The container you choose should be sturdy, stable and heavy enough to cope with a shrub without tipping or blowing over when placed in your garden. It is also important to make sure that whatever container you choose has adequate drainage hole or holes at the base, so that excess water can drain away freely. Choosing Your Compost Lilac needs a soil-based growing medium for best results when being grown in a container longer term. The growing medium typically chosen should be a peat-free mix with some sand or grit added to improve the drainage. Potting Up Syringa When potting up lilac, you should make sure that the shrub sits at the same level that it sat in its previous pot. Place a little of the growing medium into the base of the pot, then place the lilac shrub into the pot and firm more of the growing medium around the sides, making sure that there are not any air pockets around the roots. Once you have placed the lilac into its new container, water it in well, making sure that excess water can drain away freely, and spread an organic mulch over the surface of the soil. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Typically, lilac is grown on its own in a container. Remember that even the smaller lilac shrubs will grow into fairly large plants. Lilacs also have a fairly shallow root system so might experience excess competition if other plants are placed alongside them. Remember, however, that lilac can benefit from having other plants growing in containers nearby, for purposes of organic pest control. For example, plant flowers nearby that attract predatory insects that help keep populations of pests like thrips down. Just make sure that your lilac has good airflow and space to breathe since overcrowded conditions can increase problems with infection with fungal issues. Potted Lilac Care Though lilac in the ground is a great low-maintenance plant, lilac in pots will typically require a little more care and take up a little more of your time, largely because of the necessity of keeping the medium moist. However, even in pots, lilac is a relatively easy and straightforward shrub to grow. To care for lilac in containers, place them in a sunny and sheltered position, with a moist yet free-draining medium, in such a position that excess water can drain away as it should. Elevating pots with pot stands or feet can help to ensure that winter wet does not cause an issue. In the ground, lilac can also cope with an exposed location, but when grown in pots it is best to choose a sheltered spot so that the plants don’t become unstable and potentially blow over in strong winds. “Periodic root pruning can be incorporated into the maintenance regime,” says David. “In essence, containerised lilac can be treated much like how a bonsai plant is maintained if you want to grow a small shrub.” Other things you can do to ensure your lilac grows well in pots include: Watering it regularly during particularly dry seasons (take particular care to keep the growing medium moist during the period of establishment). Remaining vigilant for pests, which may cause damage to plants, especially while they are young. Deadheading as the flowers fade if desired to keep things neat and tidy (though this job is certainly not essential). If you would like to propagate your lilac and obtain new plants, this is best achieved by taking softwood cuttings, or layering in summer. Pruning to reduce size, if required, in the dormant period in winter (these shrubs respond well to hard pruning but since they flower on the previous year’s wood, note that you will lose flowers for at least a year if you cut back all the old branches). If lilac in pots blooms poorly, check that it has enough sunshine, and that it is not waterlogged. In some locations, with some lilacs, it may be helpful to cover young plants to protect flowers against late spring frosts. References 1. Foraging Guide Lilac. (n.d.). The Foraging Course Company. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.foragingcoursecompany.co.uk/foraging-guide-lilac
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These 11 Shrubs With Autumn Berries Provide Incredible Benefits For Wildlife
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Blackberry 2) Elderberry 3) Hawthorn 4) Barberry 5) Sea Buckthorn 6) Elaeagnus ssp. 7) Viburnum opulus 8) Juniper 9) Aronia melanocarpa 10) Gaultheria shallon 11) Beautyberry Where To Plant Your Autumn Berry Shrubs References Shrub varieties with autumn berries can add interest to your garden and many will be beneficial for native birds and other wildlife. There are many different shrubs that you can grow in UK gardens which will look great in autumn, with bright foliage, vibrant berries, or other interesting features. However, gardens can be far more than just ornamental, and in the UK, we are fortunate that we can so easily make our spaces both beautiful and productive. The best gardens are often those which not only look good but also give us food and allow us to forage just a few yards from our back doors. Growing your own food at home does not always need to mean a lot of work. Tending annual vegetable gardens can be hugely rewarding and a lot of fun. Shrubs which have edible autumn berries are often great additions to a perennial food-producing garden and perennial food-producing gardens, once established, can often be surprisingly low-maintenance schemes. To help you start thinking about which shrub varieties with autumn berries you might choose, we’ve compiled this list of a few of the best options for an autumn yield that not only looks beautiful, but can be beneficial to you and the wildlife that shares your space. 1) Blackberry BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus fruticosus agg. HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn One of the best-known forage berries of the late summer and autumn is the blackberry. Brambles might not be everyone’s favourite and are sometimes considered to be a bane for gardeners due to their spiny tangles and rampant growth. However, blackberries can thrive in a huge range of settings, meaning they can be a good choice for problematic sites. While an overgrown bramble thicket might sometimes seem unsightly to gardeners who like things neat and tidy, they can provide an abundance of free food, for you and for wildlife, who will also appreciate the shelter blackberry bushes can provide. Remember, blackberries can be trained and kept somewhat in check and if the spines are too off-putting, there are now thornless cultivars that you can buy. These are a lot easier to care for and tend without having to don gauntlets and feel like you are going into battle. If your garden is of a reasonably large size and you want autumn interest, a wildlife-friendly garden and want to grow your own food easily at home, blackberries are definitely a shrub to consider. They can look good in a somewhat wilder and more natural corner of a space. 2) Elderberry BOTANICAL NAME: Sambucus nigra HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn Elderberry is another berry-bearing shrub which can be so successful that it almost becomes a weed in some settings. However, this is another great shrub to consider for an abundant and wildlife-friendly space. Earlier in the year, the elder blossoms also provide a useful yield, but if you leave plenty on the plant, the beautiful deep-coloured berries will develop by autumn. These berries can be cooked and used in a number of different ways. You can make an elderberry jelly or jam, or you can mix elderberries with other autumn fruits in a range of preserves. 3) Hawthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Crataegus monogyna HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn A well-known native shrub or small tree, the hawthorn is a well-known hedgerow shrub, but many people today are not aware that hawthorns are not only ornamental but also provide edible yields. The young leaves when they first emerge are a hedgerow delicacy, and the berries, or haws, are also edible.1 They are delicious when cooked into jams or other preserves. The fruits can also be dried, ground, mixed with flour and used in bread baking. Hawthorn is a great choice for hedgerows in many settings, even in exposed locations. It can thrive in many soil types, including heavy clay and nutritionally poor conditions, and is unfussy about soil pH. The hawthorn is also known for attracting and aiding a range of native wildlife. “Hawthorn is fantastic for wildlife and hums with it from spring to autumn,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The autumn berries on the trees in my garden are stripped by birds and the density of the crowns supports multiple nests.” 4) Barberry BOTANICAL NAME: Berberis vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring/Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer/Autumn There are a number of different types of Berberis, or barberry, with edible autumn berries. These shrubs can be another attractive and useful addition to a garden. There are several named cultivars known for their berries and today, the common barberry is best known as an ornamental garden plant, despite it first being cultivated for its edible yield. Other evergreen types like Berberis darwinii, for example, also have berries with edible uses.2 The berries are very acidic, so most people prefer to use these fruits in jams and other preserves. 5) Sea Buckthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Hippophae rhamnoides HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer Another interesting shrub to consider growing in your garden for autumn interest and its berries is sea buckthorn. One of the notable and useful things about this tolerant shrub is that it is a nitrogen fixer – so can help you maintain fertility in the soil of your garden over time. They can be a particularly good choice for hedgerows or windbreaks in coastal locations. While usually too acidic to enjoy eating when raw, they are often juiced and used in drinks alongside other autumn fruits, or cooked and used in a range of recipes.3 6) Elaeagnus ssp. COMMON NAME(S): Thorny olive HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn Elaeagnus ssp. are other useful nitrogen-fixing shrubs that can also provide edible berries. Examples include E. umbellata, also known as autumn olive, which has red fruits in the autumn months that are usually cooked and made into jams and other preserves.4 Elaeagnus subspecies can make great informal hedgerows, and also work well within forest garden schemes. It is said to increase the productivity of fruit trees by 10%.5 There are also several other Elaeagnus shrubs which fruit in autumn and provide other benefits through nitrogen fixation to the soil and neighbouring plants. 7) Viburnum opulus COMMON NAME(S): Guelder rose HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring/Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn The native guelder rose, or Viburnum opulus, looks wonderful over a long season of interest. As a native plant, it can be a good choice for native wildlife-friendly gardens. The berries can be used in moderation as a cranberry substitute.6 A yellow-berried version ‘Xanthocarpum’ has attractive golden yellow berries in autumn, which last well into winter before being eaten by native birds. 8) Juniper BOTANICAL NAME: Juniperus communis HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn Another native plant, the common Juniper can also bear autumn berries, which are typically used in making gin.7 Even if you do not plan on using the berries, a Juniper bush can also be an attractive evergreen addition to your garden which can keep it looking good all year round. This is a great plant for wildlife too. 9) Aronia melanocarpa COMMON NAME(S): Black chokeberry HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring/Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn For forest garden schemes, one other useful autumn berry shrub to consider growing is Aronia melanocarpa, also known as the black chokeberry. This North American native grows well in partial or dappled shade below trees, or in the sun. The fruits are left until fully ripe and are best after a couple of frosts and can be added to jams to help them set.8 Aronia also has foliage with amazing autumn colour. 10) Gaultheria shallon COMMON NAME(S): Shallon/salal HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer/Autumn Gaultheria shallon, also known as shallon or salal, is another North American native, though it has occasionally naturalised in Britain. This evergreen shrub is another good choice for a forest garden type scheme, as it can grow well in dappled and even somewhat deeper woodland shade. The fruits can be made into preserves or dried and used like raisins. The fruits appear in late summer or early autumn. 11) Beautyberry BOTANICAL NAME: Callicarpa americana HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn Another more unusual shrub with autumn berries to consider is Beautyberry, or Callicarpa americana. The main reason to grow this and other Callicarpa is not so much for eating, but rather for the unusual appearance of the purple berries, which can be highly aesthetically appealing. One Callicarpa with ornamental appeal is Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii ‘Profusion’, which bears a profusion of the unusual bright, light purple berries. There are, of course, plenty of other ornamental berry bushes to consider for autumn berries and autumn interest, but these options mentioned above could be a good place to start when choosing shrubs for your autumn garden. Also, don’t forget about other autumn fruits, from rose hips, to crab apples, to sloes and bullaces, that you could consider growing in your garden to add further to your autumn foraging fare. Where To Plant Your Autumn Berry Shrubs Perennial gardens can take a range of forms. Shrub varieties for autumn berries can be integrated into perennial borders, perhaps alongside some perennial vegetables as well as some herbaceous perennial flowers. You can use them as part of a mixed hedgerow scheme along a garden border or to divide garden rooms. They can also be placed around fruit trees in a food forest design with layered planting, which provides many yields while all the plants and other elements work together harmoniously, like a natural forest or woodland. Such schemes can be useful no matter how large or small your garden may be. A single fruit tree and a single shrub for autumn berries can considerably enrich even the smallest of spaces – some can even be grown in a container garden. References 1. Foraging Guide Hawthorn. (n.d.). Foraging Course Site. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.foragingcoursecompany.co.uk/foraging-guide-hawthorn 2. Berberis darwinii. (n.d.-c). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Berberis+darwinii 3. Harford, R. (2023, January 27). Sea Buckthorn. Eat Weeds. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.eatweeds.co.uk/sea-buckthorn-elaeagnus-rhamnoides 4. Lord, B. (2013, September 9). Untold Abundance: The Autumn Olive. Northern Woodlands. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://northernwoodlands.org/knots_and_bolts/autumn-olive 5. Black, B., Fordham, I., & Perkins, P. (2005, July). Autumnberry (Elaeagnus umbellata): A potential cash crop. Research Gate. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/266614870_Autumnberry_Elaeagnus_umbellata_A_potential_cash_crop 6. American Cranberrybush. (2020, November 26). The Natural Web. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://the-natural-web.org/2020/11/26/american-cranberrybush/ 7. Juniper is the one botanical required for gin to be gin. (n.d.). The GIN Is IN. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://theginisin.com/botanicals-list/juniper/ 8. Bergo, A. (2020, January 20). Simple Chokeberry / Aronia Preserves or Jam. Forager | Chef. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://foragerchef.com/simple-chokeberry-aronia-preserves/
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These 9 Shrubs Have Red Leaves All Year (And Not Just In Autumn!)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Hazel ‘Red Majestic’ 2) Japanese Barberry 3) Chinese Witch Hazel ‘Burgundy’ 4) Purple-Leaf Sand Cherry 5) Red Robin 6) Smoke Bush 7) Wine And Roses 8) Ninebark Diabolo 9) Double Play Big Bang Evergreen foliage is a must in any garden. When the evenings cool and the sun slips below the horizon earlier each day, much of the colour and vibrancy of your garden will fade with it. That’s where evenly-distributed evergreens can come into their own. But despite their name, evergreens don’t have to be green in hue. In fact, many people claim that autumn is their favourite season of the year for the fantastic transformation that takes place on trees, shrubs and bushes, when leaves turn crimson, mauve and a deep burgundy. So why not replicate those enchanting shades all year round? “When using red-leaved shrubs, I try to ensure that the effect is not diluted by using too many relative to green foliaged shrubs and trees,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It is the contrast that provides the attraction of red leaves.” Many of the following shrubs boast red foliage from January through to December, ensuring there will always be some fire and effervescence to your outdoor display. So without further ado, here are our top nine (mostly) evergreen (or ‘ever-red’) shrubs to brighten up your garden: 1) Hazel ‘Red Majestic’ BOTANICAL NAME: Corylus avellana HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS RED COLOUR SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN With its profoundly reddish-purple foliage, crinkly textures and interweaving branches, majestic is certainly one name for this showstopper of a shrub. The way in which its stems twist in and out of one another will certainly add intrigue to your garden, making for a truly unique plant. The dark tint to its leaves will endure throughout the year, but the arrival of purplish-pink catkins in late winter brings another dimension to its aesthetic appeal. Capable of reaching as much as 4m in height and the same again in spread, it’s one of the larger shrubs on this list. However, it will take well over a decade to scale such lofty heights and its slow-growing nature makes it fairly easy to care for, too. Place it in moist but well-drained soil of almost any composition, and expose it to at least partial (but preferably full) sun and it’ll tend to itself. 2) Japanese Barberry BOTANICAL NAME: Berberis thunbergii HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS RED COLOUR SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER This genus can be either deciduous or evergreen, but if you opt for the Japanese barberry variety, you’ll be blessed with reds, purples and pinks on its leaves throughout the year. Come springtime, you’ll even be treated to a spectacular floral display which adds a buttery yellow to the mix. However, don’t be fooled by its pretty appearance; in spring, the blossoms are accompanied by barbs on its branches, too! Those spiny thorns mean you must take care when handling or pruning it, but the dramatic flair it brings to your garden (accentuated by the scarlet berries in autumn) are well worth the effort. It’s largely unfussy about its location in your garden, as long as it’s planted in well-draining soil and given plenty of hydration in its first year. Once established, it’ll largely fend for itself and can reach a maximum of 1.5m in height, though many never exceed a single metre. 3) Chinese Witch Hazel ‘Burgundy’ BOTANICAL NAME: Loropetalum chinense HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN RED COLOUR SEASONS: YEAR-ROUND From one part of the Orient to another, this Chinese native puts on a transformative show through its foliage throughout its lifetime. Its leaves begin life with an almost pinkish hue to their rich red, darkening to an olive colour in their advanced years. What’s more, the plant also boasts impressive floral displays of bright pink blossoms in tassel form in late winter and early spring. The pleasing contrast of the flowers and the foliage, alongside the delicate perfume that the blooms give off, make it one attractive addition to any garden. Individual branches on a Chinese witch hazel plant can reach 2m in length, while the overall height and spread of the cultivar can exceed that figure. For best results, plant the specimen in at least partial shade and fertilise it three times a year to allow it to achieve its maximum potential. 4) Purple-Leaf Sand Cherry BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus x cistena HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS RED COLOUR SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN This delightful specimen is a member of the rose bush family, though that doesn’t mean that its dainty, pinkish-white flowers resemble roses all that closely. Nonetheless, it’s still a stunning specimen which is guaranteed to bring bags of attraction to your ensemble. The leaves of this Prunus are, as the common name suggests, of a spectrum which spans every tone from red to purple, encompassing maroons, burgundies and browns and deepening as the year progresses. When the flowers arrive to offset those tones in springtime, the effect is complete. The purple-leaf sand cherry normally grows to around a metre (or just over) in height and the same again in spread, making it ideal for filling out a border or injecting some life into a neglected corner. It’s fairly hardy and self-sufficient, but needs plenty of sunshine and well-draining soil to truly flourish. 5) Red Robin BOTANICAL NAME: Photinia x fraseri HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN RED COLOUR SEASONS: SPRING The leaves of this eye-catching photinia start life as a deep red, thus giving the plant its common name. However, they do have a tendency to soften into a lusher green in their maturity, but you can always ensure you have plenty of red in amongst your display by pruning back the stems of those which have made the switch. In addition to the pleasing contrast of green and red that Red Robin boasts, it also features small clusters of white flowers in springtime, completing the Christmassy effect. The fact that it can grow up to 4m in both height and spread means it’s very popular as a hedge, too. All in all, it’s a very low-maintenance plant which won’t demand a lot of you in terms of its upkeep. In the British climate, there shouldn’t be too much need to hydrate it further than natural rainfall, but if you do water it, aim for the soil rather than the foliage. 6) Smoke Bush BOTANICAL NAME: Cotinus coggygria HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS RED COLOUR SEASONS: AUTUMN Although it takes its name from the clouds of softly pink flowers that really do resemble smoke in summertime, the real draw of Smoke Bush is the foliage. There are a wide variety of different cultivars which cover the whole spectrum of leaf colours, though all of them are quite spectacular in autumn. For more year-round red appeal, try ‘Grace’, ‘Royal Purple’ or ‘Golden Spirit’. The former two have a purplish hue lightening to red in summer, while the latter is characterised by yellow foliage tinted with hints of red. Whichever one you opt for in the end, you’ll be rewarded with a spectacularly colourful display regardless. Most Smoke Bush varieties grow to 4m in height and 4m in spread, meaning they’re also widely favoured to create bushes, hedges and other natural boundaries to a property. You should mulch once a year and expose to full or partial sunshine, but no pruning is needed to maintain its shape. 7) Wine And Roses BOTANICAL NAME: Weigela florida HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS RED COLOUR SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN Weigela are hugely popular options for beds and borders, given their expansive size, evergreen nature and easy-going temperament. Wine and Roses is a particularly sought-after option due to the purply-red tint on its foliage, which only becomes more pronounced as the plant matures. The clusters of pink blossoms, which burst forth in tubular form each spring, add an extra sparkle and sheen to the plant. Certain plants will even offer a second blooming season in summer, granting you more bang for your buck when it comes to sprucing up your outdoor display. The plant usually grows just shy of 2m in height and will respond well to aggressive pruning throughout the year, so keep those garden shears sharpened. It’s largely unfussy about the type of soil it inhabits, so long as it’s fairly fertile and well-draining. Full or partial sun exposure is required. 8) Ninebark Diabolo BOTANICAL NAME: Physocarpus opulifolius HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS RED COLOUR SEASONS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN Okay, okay, okay, so strictly speaking, ninebark diabolo won’t produce red foliage year round. As a deciduous plant, its leaves are prone to falling away in the depths of the winter, but will remain attractive for the majority of the calendar. Meanwhile, the deep red bark beneath ensures it’s still visually pleasing even when naked. As for the leaves themselves, they’re attractively three-lobed customers with a deeply reddish-purple hue. The texture of the foliage is another point of interest, while the pompoms of delicate white flowers which shoot forth in spring provide a startling contrast to the reds and purples beneath. It’s slightly faster growing than some of the other options on this list, so it’ll still take the best part of a decade for it to reach its maximum height of 2.5m. Although it will tolerate alkaline soils, it thrives in acidic ground and may struggle if the chalk content of its terrain is too high. 9) Double Play Big Bang BOTANICAL NAME: Spiraea japonica HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS RED COLOUR SEASONS: SPRING / AUTUMN Fans of an autumnal palette will be particularly pleased with Double Play Big Bang in their outdoor arrangement. As the mercury in your thermometer rises and falls, so too will the colours of the plant’s foliage oscillate between yellow, orange and red, creating a truly warming tonal effect for your garden. Again, spiraea are another deciduous shrub whose foliage will fade in the winter months, but the spectacular show they put on for the rest of the year more than compensates for that temporary drop-off. Meanwhile, the pink blossoms that surface in summer are yet another string to their bow. They’re on the smaller side of red-leaved shrubs on this list, generally growing to anywhere between 60cm and 90cm. However, it’s largely trouble-free as long as it’s planted in a sun-facing location that’s blessed with good soil. In poorer terrain, it may be susceptible to powdery mildew.
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Planting And Growing Yucca: These Architectural Plants Work Well In Xeriscaping Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Yucca? Where To Grow Yucca Planting Yucca Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Yuccas are interesting, architectural plants which are grown as houseplants or outdoors in UK gardens. There are a number of different yucca types that can be interesting plant choices for UK gardeners. Tender yuccas can be grown as houseplants, in greenhouses or conservatories – while there are also hardier yuccas which can be grown outdoors in summer; some even year-round outdoors in the right locations. Overview Botanical Name Yucca (various sub-species) Common Name(s) Adam’s Needle and Thread, Spanish Dagger Plant Type Shrub / Tree / Perennial / Houseplant Native Area Americas & Caribbean Hardiness Rating Varies – some tender, some hardy Foliage Evergreen, spiky leaves Flowers Some have cream-white flowers When To Plant (Outdoors) April, May, June Flowering Months July, August There are around 40-50 species within this genus, which are notable for their tough, evergreen, sword-like foliage and tall flower panicles of bell-shaped blooms. Yuccas are incredibly adaptable as a genus, and species have evolved to cope with a wide range of climates and ecological conditions. Why Grow Yucca? Yucca is a popular plant for ornamental use in gardens (or as houseplants) because it has such a strong architectural form. Hardier types can add a dramatic accent to a suitable garden, while houseplants can be a great addition to interior décor. When in flower, yucca can be attractive to pollinators in a garden. And in warmer, milder regions, some varieties form fruits which are popular with garden birds. Where To Grow Yucca Hardier yucca (including Yucca gloriosa) are H5 hardy and can be grown in full sun in a south or east-facing spot, in well-drained chalk, loam or sandy soil. Yucca aloifolia and Zamioculcas The plants can grow in locations which are sheltered or exposed, but will appreciate being placed in as hot and sunny a spot as possible. Tender yucca, though they can be placed outside in a warm and sunny spot in summer, are usually grown as houseplants, or in a cool conservatory. Outdoors, yucca can work well in architectural planting alongside other spiky and architectural plants, to give a warm, sunny garden in the UK an exotic feel. Yucca also work well as climate-change-conscious planting in arid conditions, in dry climate planting known as xeriscaping schemes for more (or increasingly) drought-prone areas. Planting Yucca When choosing a yucca to plant, one of your first and most important decisions will be whether you would like to opt for a tender or a hardy yucca. You will need to decide whether you will grow outdoors in a suitable spot, or will be growing under cover in a container. If you are planting outdoors, make sure that you choose a spot with as much sun as possible, and where necessary, amend the soil to improve drainage before you place your new plant. Dig your planting hole big enough to accommodate the root system, with stones, gravel or grit for drainage at the base. Make sure the plant is rested at the same level in the soil that it was in its pot and that water can drain away freely. If you are growing in a container, make sure that this is of sufficient size to accommodate the plant you have purchased. And make sure the container allows water to drain freely from the base. Fill your container with John Innes No. 2 compost (or equivalent) with 20-30% added grit by volume to improve drainage. Hardy yuccas outdoors should usually be planted between May and September. Yuccas to be grown as houseplants can be planted up into new containers at any time of year. Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Hardy yucca grown outdoors can be moderately low-maintenance plants, which, when placed in the right spot, will require little ongoing care. Water freely during dry periods in summer, but curtail watering in autumn and cease over the winter months. While you may feed with an organic liquid plant feed over the summer months, this is not usually required when yucca are grown in moderately fertile soil. Mulching around perennial plants in your garden each spring with organic matter can help retain moisture in a dry and sunny spot, and maintain fertility over time. Pruning is not usually required on most yucca. If they have multiple rosettes and do become too large or leggy in an area, you can prune rosettes with a sharp saw after flowering, before the end of August. However, to keep things looking neat you may also need to remove damaged leaves and spent flower spikes from your yucca in the spring. This is also true for young or tender yucca grown in containers/indoors. “Large Yuccas, such as Yucca gloriosa, can become multi-stemmed, and this gives the option to take cuttings,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “In mid-summer, after flowering, a rosette can be sawn cleanly from the trunk and the leaves stripped back to stalks for all but a few smaller leaves. “There should be some woody base growth and some of the leaf-clad growth on the cutting. Trim the top and tail of the cutting so it is no more than 18cm tall and place it to half its depth in a pot of compost. “You can even slice it in half lengthways if it is top-heavy.” Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Tender yucca are suitable for indoors cultivation, though pots may also be placed outdoors during the summer months. Water yucca freely over the summer months, remembering that plants grown in containers will typically require more water and dry out more easily than those grown in the ground. However, from the end of September, you should water yucca only sparingly. Water well, but only when the top 5cm of the potting mix has dried out. It is also a good idea to feed container-grown yucca with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed once a fortnight over the growing season, from April to September when growing in containers. If you have placed a container-grown yucca outside over the summer, make sure you move it indoors before temperatures fall below around 7-10°C at night. Move them indoors or into a cool conservatory where the minimum temperatures can be maintained.
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Common Garden Sage: How To Grow Salvia Officinalis And Its Common Cultivars
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Varieties How To Grow Sage Harvesting Common Problems References Sage is a fantastic herb to grow, not only for its many culinary uses, but it looks great when grown as an ornamental as well. It is easy to grow and care for and with hundreds of cultivars to grow, there is one to suit every spot, whether in the borders or in a container or pot outside the back door. Sage has only a few growing requirements – which this guide will cover – and if grown in the right place and looked after correctly, it can provide you with your own herbs to pick all year round. Overview Botanical Name Salvia officinalis Common Name(s) Common Sage; Culinary Sage Plant Type Herb / Shrub Native Area Mediterranean, Africa Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Blue or purple flowers When To Sow March, April, May Plant Out June, July Harvesting Months Year-Round Salvia officinalis, common garden sage or sage as it is most commonly referred to, is an evergreen small shrub from the Lamiaceae family.1 It is an intensely aromatic herb, with soft green-grey leaves and light blue flowers in summer. Classified as a sub-shrub, it is also often described as a perennial as in some parts of the UK – it may lose its leaves and die back a bit in winter, only to regrow again come spring. Native to the Mediterranean, its name stems from the Latin ‘salvere’, which translates as ‘to be well’.2 Varieties There are numerous cultivars of sage to grow, with some being rather tricky to come by here in the UK. However, there are some that are simply stunning and widely available, with foliage ranging from white and green to deep purple. S. officinalis ‘Purpurascens’ AGM ‘Purple sage’ as it is widely known, is a dwarf shrub growing to no more than H1M x W1M. With stunning purple stems and foliage when young, which turn green or grey with age, it produces small purple or blue flowers in summer. Its flowers will act as a magnet to bees and other pollinators. S. officinalis ‘Icterina’ AGM S. officinalis ‘Variegata’ as it is sometimes known, is a variegated dwarf shrub with yellow-gold and pale green foliage and pale blue flowers. Growing to an eventual size of H1M x W1M, it is another ‘Plant for Pollinators’ that will prove popular amongst bees and butterflies. S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ is another variegated variety, but with white and green leaves which are tinted pink on the new growth and produce blue flowers in early summer. A small, but spreading shrub, it will grow to H.4M x W.3M and is well suited to containers and pots. How To Grow Sage Being native to warmer climates, it is no surprise that sages grow best in full sun, a south or west-facing spot is ideal. Sage requires free-draining soil and the plants hate their roots becoming waterlogged, especially during winter. Sages are widely available from spring onwards as potted plants to grow directly in the ground or in containers. Soil Requirements If grown in heavy soils, it is advisable to add some grit to the compost mix or to the bottom of the planting hole, if planting directly into a border. If growing in pots, feet can also be used to lift the pot a few centimetres off the ground to help excess water drain away from the roots. Watering Sages are fairly drought-tolerant, but need to be watered until established and during hot and dry periods. However, try not to overwater as doing so can cause the plant to sulk. Pruning Pruning sage plants is relatively easy, they simply require any flowers to be deadheaded and the foliage lightly pruned for shape and size straight after flowering in summer. Winter Hardiness S. officinalis is hardiness rated as H5, meaning it is hardy down to temperatures of -10 to -15°C and will survive most winters here in the UK. Sages may struggle during a wet winter though. They are thankfully easy to propagate and grow as back-ups in case they don’t survive a harsh winter. Growing Sage From Seed Sage can be grown from seed in spring, which even though is a far cheaper option, will take longer until it can be used for cooking. To grow from seed: Simply fill a small pot with a peat-free multi-purpose compost and sow 3-5 seeds spaced out evenly on top. Cover lightly with compost or vermiculite and water gently – germination requires a temperature of 21°C, which either a warm indoor windowsill or a propagator can provide. Once germinated, move to a spot with indirect sunlight and allow to grow on until 3-5cm tall. Remove or transplant all but one seedling per pot. Grow the seedlings on under cover until all risk of frost has passed, when they can then be hardened off before planting or placing outside. Sage is easy to grow from cuttings and is a reliable way to produce more plants for free. Growing Sage From Cuttings For the best chance of success, cuttings roughly 8–10cm long of new growth can be taken from May to July. To prepare the cuttings: Cut just below a leaf node and strip off the lower leaves using a clean and sharp knife or pair of secateurs. Leaving just a few leaves at the top of each stem, place the cuttings 5cm deep around the edge of a pot filled with multi-purpose compost and water. Cuttings do not like to be allowed to dry out. To prevent this, a clean plastic bag can be placed over the top of the pot and cuttings, but make sure the bag does not touch the leaves. Keep out of direct sunlight, remove the bag after approximately 3 weeks and continue to grow until each cutting has developed its own roots and can then be potted on. Harvesting Sage leaves can be picked all year round, although it is said that the young shoots and leaves in summer can be the most flavoursome. Leaves can be picked individually or a small stem taken and used fresh, dried or frozen. To store as dried herbs, cut a bunch of stems and hang to dry in a dark and airy place. Once completely dry, they can then be stored in a sterile and airtight jar until needed. “As with other garden herbs, the tips or chopped leaves can be frozen in ice cubes and then put straight into stews and casseroles in winter,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This has become my go-to method in a kitchen with limited storage space.” Common Problems Sages are on the whole relatively pest and disease-free, although they can be susceptible to slug and snail and capsid bug damage. Slugs & Snails Slugs and snails can be troublesome when growing sage plants, especially when the plants are young. Slugs and snails will often leave a slimy trail and holes in the foliage behind them, even if you don’t see them during daylight hours. Slugs and snails are so prolific that some damage needs to be tolerated. However, certain measures can be taken to reduce the threat. Slugs tend to eat at night and a torch-lit slug hunt can prove surprisingly effective, along with using copper barriers, beer traps and encouraging predators such as hedgehogs, frogs and toads and birds in the garden. Capsid Bugs Capsid bugs attack several ornamentals including hydrangeas, fuchsias and sages. Feeding on plant sap, they damage the foliage and new buds leaving behind tell-tale holes. Being up to 1cm long they are easy to spot and regular checks of sage plants from early spring is recommended, before a more serious infestation might occur. Non-chemical controls are limited, but encouraging predators such as birds, hedgehogs and beetles may help. Chemical controls can include fatty acids and plant oils, however these sprays may need frequent re-application, as per their instructions. For heavy infestations, insecticides are available – however, they must not be used when the plant is in flower, as this can pose a danger to bees and other pollinators. References 1. Garden sage – Salvia officinalis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/garden-sage 2. Italian word of the day: “Salve.” (2018, October 22). The Local Italy. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.thelocal.it/20181022/italian-word-of-the-day-salve
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Growing Helianthemum 'Rock Rose' In Floral Designs, Groundcover Or Low Edging
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Rock Rose Plant Care Common Problems References Only about a foot high, Rock Rose shrubs offer advantages few plants of that size do. It is a no-care option that gets by in conditions that other flowering plants wither in – poor soil, aridity, and sea-spray are as if nothing. It provides year-round low-growing foliage of a cool green hue and oodles and oodles of simply delightful flowers from pastel yellow to ruby red. Overview Botanical Name Helianthemum Common Name(s) Rock Rose Plant Type Shrub Native Area Europe, South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Various When To Sow May, June, July, August, September Flowering Months June, July, August, September Helianthemum is a genus of 112 species of low-growing evergreen shrubs and subshrubs plus a few herbs that inhabit Europe, Northern Africa, and South-Western Asia.1 Members of this genus grow in numerous and varied habitats from oceanside cliffs to interior grasslands, and from highland meadows to rocky barrens. Helianthemum nummularium cultivars are spreading, mat-forming evergreens that are as if tailor-made for specific garden purposes like floral designs, groundcover, rock gardens, and low edging. Those Helianthemum species that have ornamental value and all of the cultivars are also formally named ‘Rock Rose’ though the genus as a whole with all its species is also sometimes informally referred to as Rock Rose. Be aware that – very confusingly – the related genus Cistus is also sometimes called Rock Rose. These spreading shrubs and subshrubs grow from about 20-50cm. Barring a few exceptions, all of the in-demand varieties reach heights of 25-35cm. Rock Rose ‘Orchard’s Royale’ This little plant’s small leaves are opposite; on some species the upper stems’ leaves are alternate. In the majority of varieties, the foliage is a subdued but coolly attractive greyish-green or bluish-green shade. Because of this tone and texture of the foliage, these plants are also called Frostwort. Interestingly, the shape of the leaves varies quite a bit even among the cultivars, varying from linear to ovate with the majority being lanceolate or elliptic. H. apenninum The arrangement of the flowers varies by species – they may be single or borne in some or another type of inflorescence. Flowers are always five-petalled and are disk-shaped or saucer-shaped. They are delightfully pretty and though the blooms last for but a day, these shrubs are incredibly prolific. Rock Rose plants typically bloom from late spring to midsummer, and profusely at that. Habitat & Growing Conditions These plants almost always grow in sunny locations, and most are lime-loving plants that grow well in chalky, calcareous soils. Apart from these two common factors they grow in semi-desert, grassland, field, hilly, and coastal locations. None of the species or cultivars need fertile soil and in nature, the species frequently grow in even stony and gravelly ground. All the desirable varieties are hardy to Zone H4, making them just hardy enough for almost the entire United Kingdom. How To Grow Rock Rose The very name Rock Rose is an indicator of where you can plant this tough but delightful shrub. It can make do in poor, gravelly or stony soil, and it is one of the best choices for rock gardens. These shrubs are perfect for narrow borders where you want low-growing plants. Any strips of indifferent soil, such as between a walkway and a dwelling’s wall, or between a driveway and a tiled courtyard, can be greened (and flowered) wonderfully well by Rock Rose varieties. Rock Rose varieties are excellent choices for groundcover on barren slopes and verges where the spreading mats will both control erosion and provide all-year greenery. In coastal locations that are windswept, have salt-sea air, and sandy ground where you will be hard-pressed to grow any flowering plants, Helianthemum will prove to be a godsend. Lastly, you can grow this plant between paving slabs and stones, and between paving slabs and bordering concrete to control erosion, crumbling, and to hold the ground and slabs together. “I use Helianthemum in two main ways: in the cracks and gaps of stone walls and between paving stones in gravel areas” shares Horticulturist and Garden Consultant Colin Skelly. “I always grow them in full sun. This environment reflects quite closely the habitat range of wild Helianthemum populations.” Growing From Seed Helianthemum can be grown from seed. This can be done indoors at the break of spring for transplanting outdoors in late spring, or the seeds can be sown directly outdoors in late spring which is the more straightforward option. Scarify and soak about half your seeds before sowing. Sow seeds on the surface and very lightly cover them with a sprinkling of soil. Water them well and keep watering frequently – they usually take 15 to 20 days to germinate. Plant Care The only no-nos for Helianthemum are heavy clay soils and acidic soils, and full shade. Other than that, anything goes. Preferred Soil Even though this is a lime-loving genus do not plant it in heavy clay soils. Indifferent soil is fine so long as it is alkaline – but if you have chalky soil and want to plant Rock Rose, you are in luck. A light, friable soil made up of gravel, sand, and chalk amended with just a little organic compost or humus will work out very well for all Helianthemum. They do not care for rich soils – the soil pH may be from Neutral to Moderately Alkaline – 6.6 to 8.4. Soil must drain well and should not stay damp, while the location should offer full sun or at least partial sun. Watering Gradually reduce the amount and frequency of watering as the plants grow. After they have matured they should be watered only when the soil dries out. As a guideline, about one centimetre of water twice a week should be enough. In the country’s colder regions it would be wise to mulch Helianthemums. Fertilising Fertilising is not needed but if you would like to try to boost the number of blooms over the season or its length, you can feed the plants once in mid-spring using a small amount of high potassium liquid fertiliser. Do not use a balanced fertiliser or one meant for ericaceous plants. Pruning Rock Rose does not need any pruning. However, you may prune them for two reasons: If you want the plants to stay close to the ground and form a mat-like groundcover, you can prune old woody stems in early spring. In favourable climates, you may be able to stimulate a second bloom in late summer or early autumn by cutting back the shrubs by about a third. Common Problems Rock Rose is not known to suffer from any pests or diseases. References 1. Helianthemum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002303-2#children
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