Growing
Horticulturists Suggest These 15 Hardy Climbers & Shrubs For Winter Interest
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Ivy 2) Honeysuckles 3) Evergreen Clematis 4) Silk Tassel Brush 5) Climbing Hydrangeas 6) Emerald Gaiety 7) Firethorn 8) Wall Cotoneaster 9) California Lilac 10) Star Jasmine 11) Passion Flower 12) Holly-Leaved Sweet Spire 13) Wintersweet 14) Oregon Grape Hybrid 15) Camellia sasanqua If you’re looking for climbing plants or wall shrubs for winter interest, look no further – we have a list of 15 great options for you to choose from. Climbers and shrubs which can be trained against walls (usually those which retain their leaves or provide winter interest) can be very valuable plants to include in your garden. Not only will they look good, but they can also be great for the wildlife with which you share your space. “A combination of evergreen climbing plants can provide beauty, as well as habitat and nectar and pollen for garden life, for most months of the year,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are also relatively low-maintenance, usually needing only an annual prune.” Evergreen shrubs and climbers are typically those which are best for adding interest to the winter garden. These can provide year-round privacy when trained on a fence and provide shelter for a range of garden creatures. They also make a great visual backdrop – especially when trained against a garden boundary or a wall of your home, for the bare branches of deciduous shrubs and trees. We have chosen the plants on this list for their broad applicability in garden design here in the UK, and for their visual appeal during winter months. If you are looking for evergreen climbing plants and wall shrubs for winter interest, then of course you have other options, but considering these fifteen options could be a good place to start: 1) Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: Hedera helix HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY Ivy (Hedera helix) is a native workhorse of the winter garden. It will reliably remain evergreen all year round, providing shelter for a range of wildlife, and visual interest even over the coldest months. It will also have blackberries in the winter months, providing an excellent food source for native birds. It is H5 hardy, and can be grown almost anywhere, from full sun sites, to deep shade. This self-clinging climber may be too vigorous for some settings, but it can be perfect for growing up a tall wall or fence in any orientation. Look out for variegated varieties for even more winter interest. 2) Honeysuckles BOTANICAL NAME: Lonicera HARDINESS RATING: H6 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -15°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE There are a wide range of honeysuckles that can be grown in UK gardens, from the native but deciduous common honeysuckle, to honeyberry (edible honeysuckles), to evergreen options like Japanese honeysuckle, for example. Japanese honeysuckle is H6 hardy, which is great for winter interest. Another honeysuckle for winter interest is the deciduous Lonicera fragrantissima, which is deciduous, but which flowers in late winter or early spring. 3) Evergreen Clematis BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis cirrhosa HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Another climber which is both evergreen and winter flowering is Clematis cirrhosa. Try varieties like ‘Winter Beauty’ or ‘Early Sensation’, for example. They have delicate bell-shaped, creamy-white flowers set against their ferny foliage. This is a good choice for a full sun, sheltered site in milder areas. It requires moist yet free-draining soil. This evergreen clematis is H4 hardy in the UK. 4) Silk Tassel Brush BOTANICAL NAME: Garrya elliptica HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE Also known as silk-tassel bush, this shrub is also great for training against a wall or fence. It should thrive in full sun or a partially shaded site, and not only has evergreen foliage but also bears beautiful silver catkins through the winter months. It is H4 hardy in the UK and will grow to 3.5m, or even taller in mild areas with well-drained soil. 5) Climbing Hydrangeas BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea petiolaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY Climbing hydrangeas can also be great wall shrubs for winter interest. Hydrangea petiolaris, H. seemannii and the related H. virburnoides are all self-clinging climbers which offer year-round interest in your garden. These are H5 hardy and can work well in many different situations with almost any aspect and soil type, as long as the soil does not become waterlogged in winter. 6) Emerald Gaiety BOTANICAL NAME: Euonymus fortunei HARDINESS RATING: H5/H6 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10 TO -20°C PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Euonymus fortunei is another great self-clinging climber to consider for your garden, to add evergreen interest over the winter months. Spindles or winter creepers are H5 or H6 hardy, and can work well when grown as free-standing shrubs or when trained as climbers against a wall. Euonymus can work well in full sun or partial shade, facing south, east or west. Variegated cultivars such as ‘Silver Queen’ can be great for enlivening a shady spot. 7) Firethorn BOTANICAL NAME: Pyracantha HARDINESS RATING: H5/H6 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10 TO -20°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Pyracantha is another shrub excellent for training against a wall or fence. Beautiful red or orangey berries appear in autumn and will often grace the plant all through the winter months. These are also H5 or H6 hardy. They do well in full sun or part shade, and can work well on sheltered or exposed sites, with any aspect. They prefer moist but well-drained or well-drained soil. 8) Wall Cotoneaster BOTANICAL NAME: Cotoneaster horizontalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: COLDER THAN -20°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN Another excellent choice for winter berries is Cotoneaster, also known as wall spray, which is another vigorous shrub that can be grown up and over walls or fences. It has pink-tinged, delicate white flowers which are followed by red berries. And the glossy leaves remain reliably in place throughout the whole of the year. 9) California Lilac BOTANICAL NAME: Ceanothus HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This evergreen shrub is H4 hardy, and can work extremely well as a wall shrub when trained against a sunny and sheltered south-facing wall or fence. Ceanothus flowers, depending on the variety, are born in spring, summer or even early autumn. But even in winter, this shrub will usually keep its little crinkled leaves throughout the winter months. 10) Star Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Trachelospermum jasminoides HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Also hardy through most of the UK, star jasmine is another evergreen climbing shrub to consider. ‘Variegatum’ is a cultivar that not only has fragrant white flowers born in summer, but also attractive white-edged leaves, which blush red in winter. It can work well in full sun or partial shade and will do well against a sheltered south or west-facing wall, in well-drained soil. 11) Passion Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Passiflora caerulea HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Blue passionflower is another H4 hardy climber, which could be another great option to consider. This is another evergreen, which will often retain its leaves through winter in milder areas in the UK, though it may lose them over the coldest months in colder regions. This fast-growing climber can work well in full sun or partial shade in sheltered spots and is another interesting option for a south or west-facing wall or fence. 12) Holly-Leaved Sweet Spire BOTANICAL NAME: Itea ilicifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Holly-leaved sweet spire is another attractive evergreen wall shrub for winter interest. It flowers in the summer/early autumn small greenish-white flowers in long dangling racemes. H5 hardy, this plant also remains evergreen and keeps its holly-like oval leaves over the winter too. It likes a sheltered, full sun or partial shade site, in moist but well-drained soil. 13) Wintersweet BOTANICAL NAME: Chimonanthus praecox HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN Wintersweet, H5 hardy, is another wonderful wall shrub to consider for your winter garden. It is well known for its wonderfully fragrant yellow flowers which it bears over the winter months when grown against a sunny west or south-facing wall in a sheltered position with well-drained soil. 14) Oregon Grape Hybrid BOTANICAL NAME: Mahonia x media HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY Best known as a sprawling shrub of neglected shady garden corners, Mahonia x media, or Oregon grape, can also be trained as a wall shrub to enliven a wall or fence over the winter months. The spiky, glossy leaves look good all year round, bright yellow flowers look great early in the season and are a delight for early pollinators, and the berries that then form are edible too – great for baking, jams or jellies. 15) Camellia sasanqua HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED Finally, last but not least, you could consider growing a winter Camellia. With its upright habit, this camellia is great for growing up against a wall or fence. It bears its fragrant white flowers in autumn and winter. It is H4 hardy, and will thrive against a north, west or south-facing structure.
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Photinia ‘Red Robin’ - How To Grow This Extremely Popular, Glossy-Leaved Cultivar
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Photinia ‘Red Robin’? How To Grow Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Care References Photinia ‘Red Robin’ is almost a garden cliché due to its popularity, but there is good reason for that and it could still be a great choice for your garden. Many gardeners and landscapers choose this useful shrub for their gardens – but just because this is a common choice, doesn’t mean that it’s one to avoid. On the contrary, this is a plant which works very well in many gardens in the UK and which could be an excellent choice for your own garden. Overview Botanical Name Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ Common Name(s) Christmas Berry Plant Type Shrub Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Sparse creamy-white flowers When To Plant April, May Flowering Months April, May When To Prune February, March Photinia, technically Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ is a popular red-leaved cultivar of Photinia, also known as ‘Christmas Berry’. This is a family of North American and Asian shrubs – with most of those used in gardens being forms of the hybrid P. x fraseri – evergreen hybrids which are grown for their colourful young foliage.1 These were developed from Asian species of this genus; though they do flower, they do so sparsely, with small, creamy-white flowers in spring. ‘Red Robin’ is an eye-catching example of this group of evergreen hybrids. It has bright red young grown, and leaves turn to a dark, glossy shade of green as they mature. While the hybrid originated at the Fraser Nursery in Alabama (hence its name) the ‘Red Robin’ cultivar was subsequently developed in New Zealand.2 It has since become by far the most popular of all Photinias grown in gardens. Why Grow Photinia ‘Red Robin’? Photinia ‘Red Robin’ is a useful and low-maintenance ornamental shrub which can be useful for a garden border. Low-Maintenance Colour It works very well as a shrub for gardeners who wish to break up the green and find colourful foliage plants to bring year-round colour and interest to their garden. It is H5 hardy, and should usually see through the winter with no issue, though young foliage can sometimes get minor frost damage. Easy To Shape You can grow this shrub in a border, or as part of a hedge – it can actually be a very good choice for hedging as it is easy to shape. This also means that it can be an excellent shrub for topiary, and can be shaped in a range of different ways – as a typical shrub, or in a standard tree or pleached tree type form. “I love to grow shrubs like Photinia ‘Red Robin’ as standards in borders,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This allows light to penetrate the ground, allowing the planting of perennials and bulbs to create a real layering of plants through space and time.” It can be kept relatively small, or grow up to around 5m tall; the Royal Horticultural Society has given this plant the Award of Garden Merit. Smaller Cultivars Note that if ‘Red Robin’ is too large for your needs, there is also a recently introduced cultivar, ‘Little Red Robin’. This is a dwarf variety more suited to small gardens or to growing in containers – it typically has a spread and height of no more than a metre or so. How To Grow Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Photinia ‘Red Robin’ will grow best in full sun or partial shade, but in fact, it can survive in a bed with any aspect in your garden – be it south, east, west or north-facing – as long as it is not in deep shade. It can usually cope in sheltered or exposed conditions – however, due to the potential for frost damage, it can be best to place this Photinia in a relatively sheltered spot, out of any frost pockets, if you live in a cooler, more northerly location. Soil Requirements What P. x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ will need is a fertile, humus-rich type of soil, which is clay, loam or sand, and which is neutral or acidic. It will not thrive in alkaline conditions; the soil should be moist but relatively free-draining. If you have heavy clay soil, you should add plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure to improve conditions before planting. Air Circulation One other thing to note is that ‘Red Robin’ needs good air circulation to avoid diseases. So while it can grow well against a garden boundary fence or wall, it should not be hemmed into a corner, or have planting around it which is too dense. Planting ‘Red Robin’ is best planted in spring or autumn. However, you can buy container-grown plants throughout the year. Just avoid planting Photinia during arid and very hot periods in the summer, or when the ground is frozen in winter. If you do plant in summer – take note that your Photinia will require a lot of watering over the first few months until it becomes established. When planting a container-grown Photinia, make sure that you dig a hole double the width of the container, making sure that the depth is correct so that the plant will sit at the same level that it did in the pot. It can be helpful to add a handful of blood fish and bone organic fertiliser to the bottom of the planting hole where soil fertility is not optimal, to get this shrub off to a good start. Place the plant carefully into the hole you have prepared, and fill the soil back in around the plant, tamping it down firmly but gently; water the shrub in well. If you wish to make a hedge of ‘Red Robin’, the plants are usually placed at a spacing of 75cm. Mulch around the Photinia you have planted with a good quality organic mulch to retain water, add nutrients and suppress weeds. Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Care Over time, Photinia ‘Red Robin’ will be an easy plant and will require little care and attention. However, you will need to water during dry periods over the first couple of growing seasons. Replenish the mulch and consider fertilising with an organic fertiliser each spring and autumn for the first couple of years. However, after a couple of growing seasons, a ‘Red Robin’ grown in the ground should not require much more attention from you at all. Companion Planting One final thing to mention is that you should give careful thought to what is planted around your ‘Red Robin’. Growing with White Mignonette These shrubs do not compete well with overly hungry or thirsty neighbours and may suffer if placed too close to particularly vigorous plants. Surrounding the Photinia with smaller, slow-growing plants that mesh well with the colourful foliage of the ‘Red Robin’ is best. Some examples of good neighbours for a ‘Red Robin’ shrub include variegated Euonymous cultivars, Hebe ‘Rhubarb and Custard’, and on acidic sites, small Japanese Acers, and Pieris – perhaps with ground cover of Pachysandra terminalis ‘Variegata’ underneath. References 1. Photinia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30014031-2 2. Photinia × fraseri “Red Robin.” (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=271346
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These 22 Red Roses Were Chosen By Garden Designers As Plants You Can't Live Without
IN THIS GUIDE Red Shrub Roses Hybrid Tea Roses Red Floribunda Roses Red Patio Roses Red Rambling Roses Red Climbing Roses References Roses can look beautiful in almost any garden – red roses are a romantic classic that never goes out of style. One of the most enduring symbols of love and romance in Western culture is the red rose.1 “It’s hard to choose a favourite plant, but I would have to say roses are my ‘can’t live without’ plant,” shares Garden Designer Claudia de Yong. “Wars have been fought over them and there are so many different varieties, shapes, sizes, colours and fragrances.” And rather than buying red roses for your loved one from a florist, you could have some in your very own garden. Buying a living plant rather than cut flowers could be a wonderful reminder for your partner of just how much you care – or it might just look wonderful in your garden – especially if you are going for that traditional cottage garden look. “Red roses can be used in a variety of garden types, from cottage garden to formal, on their own or with perennials and shrubs, in soil, in pots and containers and even window boxes,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “If you like red roses, there’s definitely a type that you can grow at home.” Roses come in many shapes and forms, and are suited to different sites. It is important to think not only about the colour of your roses but also their form and growth habit, and the conditions that they like. “Roses are my favourite plant to photograph,” shares Phao Hewitson, a Photographer. “For me, they epitomise the beauty of a flower – delicate, but at the same time, strong and enduring. There’s no such thing as an ugly or plain rose and planted amongst perennial plants is where I like to see them.” This list should help you work out what type of red rose you are looking for and help you find the right rose or roses for your own particular garden. Red Shrub Roses The first type of rose to consider is shrub roses. These come in many colours, but you will certainly find that there are plenty with beautiful red tones. Shrub roses can vary significantly from one another. There are old-fashioned shrub roses and wild roses, and more modern types. But the care of all shrub roses is more or less the same, and they tend to have the same physical characteristics. They have an open and spreading shape, with arching and often prickly branches which flower along their length. Most shrub roses like a sunny, fertile space with plenty of room to spread out. However some, including wild roses, are happy in poor, dry soil and some shade. Most shrub roses will not tolerate deep shade or permanently claggy or waterlogged soil. If a shrub rose is what you are looking for, here are some red cultivars to consider: 1) R. ‘Benjamin Britten’ 2) R. ‘Red Fountain’ 3) R. ‘L. D. Braithwaite’ 4) R. ‘Red Blanket’ 5) R. moyesii ‘Geranium’ 6) R. ‘Scarlet Fire’ 7) R. ‘Wilhelm’ 8) R. ‘Will Scarlet’ Hybrid Tea Roses Hybrid tea roses are large-flowered bush-type roses that typically have an upright and vase-like form. Their large flowers are usually born singly or in small clusters at the end of each stem. These roses all tend to do best in a sunny site, with free-draining yet slightly moisture-retentive, fertile soil which has been liberally enriched with organic matter. Hybrid tea roses have upright stems which can make them ideal for use as cut flowers. Red hybrid tea roses to consider for your garden include: 9) R. ‘Alec’s Red’ 10) R. ‘Darcey Bussell’ 11) R. ‘Deep Secret’ 12) R. ‘Royal William’ 13) R. ‘Ruby Wedding’ 14) R. ‘Thinking of You’ Red Floribunda Roses Floribunda (cluster-flowered) roses are loosely bush shaped, and bloom repeatedly with masses of flowers during the summer months. Shorter Floribunda roses work well at the front of a border or in a large container, while taller cultivars work well at the back of a border, or in dedicated rose beds. Some interesting red Floribunda roses to consider are: 15) R. ‘Hot Chocolate’ 16) R. ‘Trumpeter’ Red Patio Roses If you would like to grow roses but do not have much space in your garden then patio roses could be ideal for you. They are ideal for containers and compact in form, but bear a multitude of blooms and will typically flower all summer long. As well as working well in pots on a patio, these small roses which grow around 30-60cm high can also work well in mass planting schemes in a larger garden. Some beautiful red patio roses to consider are: 17) R. ‘Marlena’ Red Rambling Roses Rambling roses have sturdy, arching stems and are vigorous plants which can work extremely well when trained to cover a large pergola, wall or other sturdy structure. They can also be grown into the canopy of a large and well-established tree. Ramblers produce clusters of small but bountiful and often fragrant flowers in early summer. While they prefer well-drained, fertile soil in full sun, many can tolerate some shade. Here are a couple of beautiful red rambler roses to consider: 18) R. ‘Rambling Rosie’ Red Climbing Roses Most climbing roses are also extremely vigorous, and many also have wonderful scent. Many repeat flower right through from early summer into autumn. Like ramblers, these are also wonderful for covering walls or fences, or growing over sturdy pergolas or arches. Fertile soil is essential for climbing roses, however, there are cultivars which can cope with both sun and light shade as long as they have sufficient water – especially over the summer months. There are plenty of great red rose cultivars of this type to consider. Here are a few examples: 19) R. ‘Crimson Glory’ 20) R. ‘Danse du Feu’ 21) R. ‘Etoile de Hollande’ 22) R. ‘Tess of the D’Urbervilles’ References 1. Rose meanings: What Does A Rose Symbolise? (n.d.). Bloom & Wild. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.bloomandwild.com/the-meaning-of-roses
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Make Sure You Prune These Common Shrubs In Late Spring Says Horticulturist
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Berberis 2) Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles) 3) Forsythia 4) Flowering Currant (Ribes) 5) Kerria japonica 6) Mock Orange (Philadephus) 7) Spiraea x arguta 8) Weigela Knowing when to prune different plants is important and late spring is the time to prune a number of different shrubs. There are, of course, a wide selection of different plants to prune during each season and late spring is the time to think about pruning a range of shrubs. Here are just some of the shrubs to prune in late spring: 1) Berberis Berberis darwinii Berberis do not always require extensive pruning. But you can prune them to keep their size in check and to keep them full and attractive over time. Late spring, just after Berberis like B. darwinii has finished flowering, is a good time to prune. Pruning at this time allows new growth to harden off before the cold weather arrives once more. And preserves buds for blooms the following spring. However, do not prune all the branches unless absolutely necessary. Otherwise, you’ll get no barberries for yourself, or for the birds. It is a good idea to thin old and defoliated branches, getting rid of any that have been damaged. And it can also be a good idea to prune back up to a third (but no more) of the oldest branches down to the crown. If your Berberis has grown too large, you can also prune back, removing around a third of the length of each branch. You should always be sure to cut just above a leaf node, pair of leaves or lateral branch so new branching growth can occur. To keep your Berberis growing slowly, you can also give it a light trim, removing just a few centimetres of growth at the end of each branch. Take care when pruning Berberis as the spines can be sharp! 2) Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles) Flowering quince is a beautiful shrub, with beautiful red flowers in the spring which are followed by edible fruits which are great with apples in jellies and other preserves. These are shrubs which really don’t need much maintenance at all, but if you do take a little time to prune in late spring then this can sometimes help make your plant healthier and more attractive. First of all, simply look over your shrub once the flowers are fading, and remove anything that is dead, damaged or diseased. If the shrub is getting straggly, you can also shorten the new shoots back to around six leaves. This can be beneficial as it encourages new flowering spurs to form. However, bear in mind that if you remove all flowering shoots, you will not get any fruit later in the year. If you have an old and mature example, you may also find that it needs more extensive renovation pruning. You can remove a third of the stems at the base. If you do this over three years, all of the top growth will be less than three years old and you may find that this has a great impact on the health and appearance of your shrub, which you can then return to only lightly pruning each year. 3) Forsythia Forsythia is another shrub to cut back in late spring after the flowers have faded. This is a shrub that bears its flowers on the new growth it makes this year – so prune in late spring so that the new growth can develop over the summer and you can enjoy another good flowering display next year. It is not a good idea to be too excessive in pruning. If you try to make things too neat this can limit its flowering potential. On younger plants, pruning should usually be restricted. However, if you have a mature Forsythia, you can also consider cutting up to a third of the stems back to the base to encourage healthy new growth to emerge. “I often see Forsythias that have not been pruned have declined in their vigour and flowering,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “The key is to maintain a balance of younger and older wood to keep the vigour of the shrub whilst ensuring there is also a good amount of one-year-old wood, as Forsythia flowers on last year’s growth.” 4) Flowering Currant (Ribes) Ribes is another shrub which should be pruned after it has finished flowering, in late spring. Most younger Ribes will not need excessive pruning, though it can be helpful to give the whole shrub a light trim all over to keep them in check and tidy if it is growing a little wild. As with the Flowering Quince and Forsythia, mature Ribes can also be renovated by pruning up to a third of the oldest stems, repeating this over the next couple of years. However, rather than pruning these to the base, you should prune them to around half a metre or so above the ground. Leave these in place to encourage a bushy growth habit from that height. 5) Kerria japonica Japanese kerria The whippy stems of Kerria can look great growing up through other shrubs. With its sunshine yellow flowers, it can really brighten up the spring garden. This plant will do best if you do prune quite harshly. It may seem extreme, but it is a good idea to remove all shoots which have flowered just after flowering – cutting them right back to the base. You don’t need to worry because after you prune in late spring, long new shoots will spring right up over the summer, and bear new flowers next spring. 6) Mock Orange (Philadephus) After Mock Orange flowers in April and May, you can take the opportunity to prune in June. The best way to keep the plants in shape is to cut back shoots to strong buds every year just after they have finished flowering. The pruned material from your Mock Orange could also be used to create some cuttings. From cuttings of Philadelphus taken at the same time of year, you should be able to relatively easily get cuttings to take root and obtain new plants for free – so you could kill two birds with one stone. 7) Spiraea x arguta Spiraea x arguta After the lacy white flowers of this shrub begin to fade in late spring, it is time to take the opportunity to give this shrub a prune too. Pruning it in late spring will keep it neat and encourage bushy growth. It is a good idea to cut the flowering stems back to a side shoot, and to remove any branches which are not in optimal health entirely. Cutting back hard is not usually a good idea, because with drastic renovation pruning, this Spiraea will tend not to flower at all for a couple of years. 8) Weigela Weigela is another flowering shrub that should be pruned in late spring. This is also another plant that flowers on new growth, so if you prune right after flowering, you will not prune out the new wood which is yet to grow (on which flowers will form next spring). You do not need to prune excessively, but can prune to keep the size of the shrub in check, and to improve its form and appearance. Just make sure that you prune back branches to a point where two branches meet to encourage a bushy form. You can also renovate a mature Weigela by removing the oldest stems every few years, to ensure that there is plenty of young wood and the shrub looks at its best.
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Propagate Hydrangea Through Softwood Cuttings In Summer For Best Results
IN THIS GUIDE Why Take Hydrangea Cuttings? When to Take Hydrangea Cuttings Taking Softwood Cuttings 1) Prepare Your Materials 2) Take Your Cutting 3) Remove Lower Leaves 4) Dip In Rooting Hormone 5) Place Cutting In Potting Mix 6) Re-Pot Your New Plant Taking Semi-Ripe Cuttings Taking Hardwood Cuttings Hydrangeas are popular garden plants, and the good news is that it is relatively easy and straightforward to make new plants from cuttings. Hydrangeas can work well in many gardens – they are hardy and versatile shrubs that can look good and perform well in many different settings. Taking cuttings from your existing hydrangea can be a great idea. You might even be able to arrange to take cuttings from a hydrangea in someone else’s garden that you admire. Why Take Hydrangea Cuttings? Taking hydrangea cuttings is a great way to make new plants – and there are a number of reasons why you might wish to do so. Taking your own cuttings from a hydrangea in your garden (or someone else’s garden) that you like can allow you to create additional shrubs to fill garden beds or borders. One of the benefits of taking your own cuttings rather than buying new plants is, of course, that it will save you money. But it is also worthwhile remembering that it can also be a far more eco-friendly choice. When you take your own cuttings from existing plants, you will not need to buy new plants in harmful peat-based compost or in plastic pots – so it is a win-win for you and the environment. You might also wish to take hydrangea cuttings to give away as gifts, or even to sell. Difficulty Moderate Equipment Required Gardening knife or secateurs, potting mix, pots, windowsill propagator or greenhouse When To Take Cuttings Ideally June – September When to Take Hydrangea Cuttings It is possible to propagate hydrangeas by means of softwood cuttings, taken in around June, or semi-ripe cuttings taken in mid-late summer. Both of these strategies can yield excellent results. You can also take hardwood cuttings from hydrangea in the winter months, though softwood and semi-ripe cuttings generally have the best chance of rooting successfully. So, let’s look in a little more detail at exactly how to take hydrangea cuttings at different times of the year: Taking Softwood Cuttings 1) Prepare Your Materials Take a pair of clean, sharp secateurs. Prepare a container with a suitable potting mix, as softwood cuttings must be potted up as quickly as possible to avoid wilting or moisture loss. Make sure that you use a free-draining potting mix, such as 50% peat-free potting compost and 50% sharp sand. 2) Take Your Cutting Collect a young, non-flowering shoot of around 10cm in length, cutting off the material just below a node on the existing hydrangea shrub. It is best to collect this material early in the day when it contains plenty of water – don’t collect shoots from plants whose leaves are turning brown. 3) Remove Lower Leaves Remove the lower leaves from the cutting, leaving just a couple, and cut the remaining leaves in half to reduce moisture loss if they are large. 4) Dip In Rooting Hormone While softwood cuttings may root successfully without this step, you will usually obtain the best results if you dip the bottom of the cutting into a rooting hormone. You can make your own rooting compound using willow water. 5) Place Cutting In Potting Mix Place the cuttings you have taken into the potting mix, inserting them around the edge of the pot or container you have prepared. Cover the container with your cuttings with a cloche or plastic bag to retain moisture, or place them in a greenhouse or polytunnel out of direct sun and keep them relatively cool and moist until they root successfully. 6) Re-Pot Your New Plant The cuttings should have rooted successfully within around a month. At this point they can be potted on into their own individual containers and placed out in the garden towards the end of the summer months. Taking Semi-Ripe Cuttings The process for semi-ripe cuttings is the same as above. Cuttings are just taken a little later in the year, in mid or late summer. These should also root relatively successfully and rooting is generally quick for cuttings that are taken during the summer months. Semi-ripe cuttings are a little sturdier, and less prone to wilting than softwood hydrangea cuttings. The only difference with semi-ripe cuttings is that once rooted, these should generally be overwintered in pots on an unheated greenhouse, cold frame or polytunnel before being planted out in late spring the following year. You can also try placing semi-ripe cuttings from hydrangea directly in the soil, but these will not usually be rooted completely until late spring next year. Taking Hardwood Cuttings Hardwood cuttings are not the easiest way to propagate hydrangeas. However, since these are taken during the dormant period when there is less to do in the garden, you may find it easier to find the time for this job later in the year. As above, choose a sharp, clean pair of secateurs for the job. Prepare somewhere to place the hardwood cuttings that you take. With hardwood cuttings, you can prepare a site in the soil outside in well-drained, fertile soil with plenty of organic matter. However, with just a few cuttings, you can also place these in pots as above. Choose a vigorous and healthy shoot of this year’s growth from your hydrangea shrub. Remove the soft growth at the tip. Cut the material into sections around 15-30cm long. Cut with a slope across the top to shed water, just above a bud. And cut flat across the base just below a bud. Dip the end in rooting hormone, which also contains a fungicide to protect against rotting. Cinnamon is one DIY fungicide option to consider. Take the cuttings and place them in the soil of the area you have prepared. Two-thirds of the cutting should be below the soil surface. There should be at least 10-15cm between each hardwood cutting if they are in the ground. The cuttings should remain in place in the soil or in their pots to form roots until the following autumn, and care should be taken not to allow them to dry out through the summer months. Mature plants can grow to quite some size! And that’s it! Simply follow the steps according to the type of cutting you’re taking and watch your new Hydrangea grow and flourish!
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Nerium 'Oleander' - Only A Handful Of Cultivars Are Hardy Enough For Our Climate
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Where To Plant How To Grow Oleander Oleander Plant Care Growing Varieties Common Problems References Oleander is a storied and reputed plant. This evergreen bushy plant is low-care, floriferous, and blooms throughout summer. It produces gorgeous flowers in colours from pure white to blood red. Tough and tender – that cliched phrase perfectly describes Oleander. Oleander can tolerate urban jungle heat and is even drought-tolerant to an extent – and it can make do with poor soil and heavy soil, that’s plenty tough. However, it is very tender – frost tender, that is. This tough-tender plant doesn’t have to deal with much frost, though, in the regions of the American South where it thrives as an introduced plant. Overview Botanical Name Nerium oleander Common Name(s) Oleander, Nerium Plant Type Shrub Native Area Mediterranean, North-West Africa, India Hardiness Rating H2-H5 (depending on variety) Foliage Evergreen Flowers Commonly shades of yellow, pink, white or red When To Sow (Indoors) March, April, May Flowering Months July, August, September, October Oleander is an evergreen shrub that can be short and ‘shrubby’ or develop a woody stem and grow up to a fair height so that it looks like a small tree. Dwarf cultivars settle at only 1-2m; the intermediate ones reach heights of 2.5-3.5m. The cultivars that grow into small trees can attain heights of up to around 7m. Almost all of them have bushy, open habits and almost all of them are profuse bloomers and flower right from the beginning of summer, sometimes even before, to the end of summer. Their colours include white, cream, all shades of pink from pale delicate pink to vibrant magenta pink, and deep rich reds. Oleander belongs to Genus Nerium, which includes a species count of just one! The sole species is Nerium oleander.1 The plant’s floral beauty has led it to be cultivated to quite some extent and many cultivars are known to exist. Habitat & Growing Conditions Oleander’s habitat and growing conditions are predominantly in mild Mediterranean climates near streams and other waterways, including coastal areas. Though the large majority of cultivars are hardy to Zone H3, a few are hardy only to Zone H2, while a few more are frost-hardy and suitable for growing in Zones H4 and H5. “Even in mild coastal areas, even a few degrees of frost are enough to prevent growing many Nerine oleander for a prolonged period,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “A handful of cultivars are available that are hardier for the UK and should satisfy a yearning for the Mediterranean.” Having been introduced to the Far East, it now grows wild in several of that region’s countries. Where To Plant Most residents of the UK will not be able to plant this frost-tender plant outdoors. Except for those fortunate enough to be living in balmy (relatively speaking) regions of the UK, most gardeners will perforce need to grow Oleander in a pot, container, or planter so that it can be overwintered indoors. Oleanders make wonderful patio and deck plants and as long as they get at least several hours of sun they’re great for the balcony too. A good-sized container or planter with an Oleander can fill any vacant spot in your garden with a gorgeous flowering plant. If you live in a secluded area by the sea in a mild part of the country and would like to build a windbreak or plant a decorative flowering bush, your jackpot is Oleander in all its cultivars. How To Grow Oleander Though Oleander is an evergreen shrub, the hardiness of most cultivars is only to H3 – which means that they cannot be grown outdoors in any but the warmest coastal parts of the United Kingdom, such as a small region in the south-west. However, you can search for a hardy variety, such as Hardy Pink and Hardy Red, and confidently grow these outdoors in your garden, though in a sheltered location, almost anywhere in the United Kingdom. Growing From Seed Oleander can be started indoors from seeds in early spring. Seeds may be started in a tray or in small pots. Either way, they should be sown in a sterile potting mix. Dampen the potting mix and just lightly dab in the seeds, about three to a pot. Seeds need light to germinate so they should not be covered – the lightest of sprinklings of the mix will suffice. Oleander seeds germinate after a comparatively long time – 15 to 20 days – so it will help if the conditions are as favourable as possible. First, the soil temperature should stay around 20-21°C. Next, cover, but do not seal, the pots with cling film or shrink wrap. Finally, keep watering the seeds but very lightly so that the potting mix stays just damp. As soon as the seeds germinate, remove the cling film and put the pots on a sunny windowsill or where the seedlings can get several hours of direct sunlight. If you started them in trays, transplant seedlings each to its own pot after they have developed two pairs of true leaves. If you started them in individual pots, thin as necessary or transplant. Transplanting After a year to eighteen months, the plant can be transplanted into its last appropriately-sized container as indicated by the eventual height and spread of the variety. An Oleander, depending on the ultimate size of the variety, may be grown in a pot, container, or planter. A halfway decent mixed loam amended with some compost will work very well for Oleander. It should drain well – overly wet soil or waterlogged soil is a big no-no for Oleander. In spring, after there is no danger of frost, the plant can be shifted outdoors – it would be wise to harden it for a week to ten days first. Oleander Plant Care Watering In the UK, Oleander should be placed in full sun. In most regions of the UK a mature Oleander plant’s water needs will be met by rain. During dry periods you will need to water it, though moderately. ‘Hardy Red’ Avoid letting the soil stay dry for more than a few days. Though Oleander is drought-tolerant, lack of water will affect flowering. Oleander does not care to be over-watered and should this happen, it will give you a signal: yellowing and yellowed leaves. Feeding Although Oleander does well without any fertilising, if you wish you could feed it with a small quantity of a balanced fertiliser in mid-spring, in either liquid or slow-release form. Otherwise give it a helping of compost. Growing Varieties Five varieties are outlined underneath with an eye to including a diversity of heights and spreads, and a matching diversity in floral shapes, forms, and colours. ‘Petite Salmon’ Has an odd name – for an Oleander, the plant is indeed petite at only about 1-1.8m and with the same spread, exhibiting a bushy, dense habit, but there is nothing salmony (or otherwise fishy) about its colour, scent, or anything else. The salver-shaped flowers are ‘pinwheel petalled’ and are in a delicate tone of baby pink. ‘Twist Of Pink’ Delivers a twist on the foliage too. The leaves are variegated, displaying irregular but striking yellowish vertical stripes. This cultivar bears double flowers in a deep, saturated pink, and it is the ruffled pink petals that give the plant its name. It reaches an ultimate height of just over 2m. It is a very popular variety on the other side of the pond. ‘Splendens’ An intermediate-size cultivar, reaching a height of 3-3.5m with about the same spread. It has a bushy habit, often vase-shaped. It bears bowl-shaped double flowers of a particularly neat and symmetrical form. They are of candy pink hue and have a satiny lustre. ‘Calypso’ A ‘tree-sized’ Oleander as it reaches an ultimate height of 4-5m with a spread almost as wide as its height. It is heat tolerant, even for an Oleander. It produces single, very full, salver-shaped flowers of an intense, eye-catching magenta-pink hue. This variety is especially popular in Florida and Southern California. ‘Hardy Red’ Indeed lives up to its name because it is hardy, at least by Oleander standards, being hardy to Zone H5. This variety is another large one, attaining a height of up to 4m with a spread of about 3m. This is one of the most attractive of all Oleanders because of its showy flowers. They are single, funnel-shaped, and of a riveting blood-red colour. Common Problems Oleanders are generally very pest-resistant and disease-free, especially if they are kept outdoors. If these plants are grown in a greenhouse, they may be subject to attack by glasshouse red spider mite and, less frequently, by scale insects and mealybugs. Indoor plants are more susceptible to scale insect infestation, and also to red spider mite and aphids to a lesser extent. You can avoid these problems by keeping indoor plants in rooms that are not heated and that have good air circulation. References 1. Nerium. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30305280-2
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These 15 Shrubs That Flower In Summer Are Colin Skelly's Top Picks
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Hydrangea 2) Lavender 3) Buddleja 4) Rose 5) Ceanothus 6) Cistus 7) Deutzia 8) Daphne 9) Olearia 10) Fuchsia 11) Hibiscus 12) Salvia 13) Spirea 14) Escallonia 15) Potentilla With some careful planning, shrubs can inject a dazzling display of colour, not only throughout the summer, but during the rest of the year as well! With the bonus of being relatively low maintenance, shrubs can provide vibrant hues or calming pastel shades to adorn your garden, along with providing important height and structure. Whether for a contemporary design or a cottage garden there are shrubs to suit. Shrubs come in a plethora of choices, evergreen or deciduous, for ornamental or screening purposes and even scented. The choice is endless, but here are some of the best to inspire you on how to provide stunning colour during the summer months here in the United Kingdom. 1) Hydrangea HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Early Blue’, ‘Vanilla Fraise’, ‘Annabelle’ Hydrangeas, originally from Asia and the Americas, are one of the best all-round shrubs and are widely available in vibrant pinks, cool blues and elegant whites. They grow well in full sun or part shade and need to be kept moist and in a sheltered spot. Hydrangea macrophylla, with classic mophead flowers, are available in pink and blue and will flower from June through to August. Amazingly the colour of their flowers is soil dependent, with acidic soil producing lilac flowers and alkaline soil pink blooms. H. macrophylla ‘Early Blue’ grows to H1.5m x W1.5m and is a wonderful variety showcasing large pale blue flowers that darken as the summer goes on. H. paniculata are a great variety producing pyramid-shaped flowers. H. paniculata ‘Vanilla Fraise’ H. paniculata ‘Vanilla Fraise’ must be a favourite though with its creamy white flowers, which as the summer drifts on, turn a wonderful pink. Definitely one for the back of the border as it can reach H2.5m x W1.5m over time. For a classic white nothing compares with H. arborescens ‘Annabelle’. A potentially large shrub, H2.5 x W2.5m, it can be kept compact through regular pruning. Large white balls of flowers, so big that the stems may need staking, usually appear in July and last for months. A stunning shrub and true favourite. Don’t let hydrangeas dry out though as they are often one of the first to wilt, especially if kept in a pot. “Hydrangeas are hugely popular garden shrubs, and rightly so,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For the price of an annual prune, they will provide blooms from mid to late summer and look good as they fade into autumn. “Keep well mulched to optimise soil moisture. My favourite is H. arborescens and its cultivars, but all of the species are the parents of many worthy garden cultivars.” 2) Lavender HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – JULY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Hidcote’, ‘Munstead’ For a south-facing border or sunny terrace, lavender is a great choice. From the Mediterranean, lavender plants love the sun and heat and are equally at home in a border or a pot. French and Spanish varieties tend to be slightly taller, but are less hardy than the English varieties, needing protection during the cooler months. For this reason, we’d go for an English lavender of which there are many. Lavandula angustifolia or English Lavender will bloom from July to September and attract all manner of pollinators to the garden. Lavender ‘Hidcote’ The classic ‘Hidcote’ (H.5m x W1m) and ‘Munstead’ (H.5m x W1m) varieties both produce wonderfully scented purple flower spikes for weeks on end. Both compact and easily available, ‘Hidcote’ produces a smaller and deeper purple flower compared to the larger & paler ‘Munstead’ flower. Lavender requires free draining soil to thrive and will sulk if left in wet heavy soil over winter. Planting out in spring and adding horticultural grit to the soil mix will give them the best start. 3) Buddleja HARDINESS: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Santana’, ‘Buzz Blue’, ‘Black Knight’ Buddlejas (buddleias) are more commonly known as the butterfly bush due to their insane capability of attracting butterflies. With purple, pink, blue and white conical flowers buddlejas deserve a place in every garden. With careful deadheading they can bloom throughout summer and even though they thrive in almost every spot, they prefer a sunny and dry position. B. davidii ‘Santana’ produces vibrant red-purple panicles up to 50cm long. It can reach H4m x W4m if left to its own devices, but a spring prune will keep it more compact if desired. B. davidii ‘Black Knight’ Buddleia ‘Buzz’ have been bred to stay small and are perfect for a small border or patio pot growing to H1m x W1m. ‘Jazz Blue’ shows off stunning blue flowers all summer long, attracting bees and butterflies to your garden. For a real show stopper, nothing beats B. davidii ‘Black Knight’. A large shrub growing up to H3m x W3m, it is covered with intense deep purple flowers through the summer months. 4) Rose HARDINESS: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – JULY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Gloire du Midi’, ‘Freedom’, ‘Gloire de Guilan’ With roses being one of the broadest groups of plants there’s a rose for every situation. From small varieties such as polyantha and patio to the larger hybrid tea and damask, the choice is endless. Roses thrive in full sun, although some are suited to shade and must be kept well-watered and fed. ‘Gloire du Midi’ is perfect for a patio pot growing only to H.5m x W.5m. Preferring full sun, it produces masses of slightly scented scarlet red flowers for months on end, as it is a repeat flowerer. ‘Gloire du Midi’ Rose Rosa ‘Freedom’, a hybrid tea, displays glorious deep yellow blooms throughout the summer. A vigorous bush type habit, yet only growing to H.8m x W.6m. it will bring life to any border. For an old damask variety, nothing beats ‘Gloire de Guilan’. A large shrub growing to H1.5 x W1m it produces a one-off abundance of double pale pink flowers with good scent. With good disease resistance it is perfect for a sunny or part shaded border. 5) Ceanothus HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: VARIES RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Concha’, ‘Trewithen Blue’, ‘Blue Cushion’ The sun loving Californian lilac or ceanothus can be evergreen or deciduous and their flowers provide a burst of blue in early summer. They require moist, but well-drained soil and will thrive in a sheltered and sunny spot. Ceanothus ‘Concha’ AGM is an evergreen eventually growing to H3m x W3m. With indigo blue flowers it injects some wonderful early summer colour into any garden. Having received the Royal Horticultural Society AGM award, it is proven to perform reliably well in the garden. C. ‘Concha’ If you have the space then C. arboreus ‘Trewithen Blue’ must truly be considered. A vast shrub or small tree, it can grow over time to a gigantic H6m x W8m and is hardy down to -10C. C. ‘Blue Cushion’ is better suited for a smaller position reaching H1m x W2m. Bearing bright blue fluffy flowers in early summer, it is loved by pollinators. 6) Cistus HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – JULY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Gold Prize’ Another sun-loving shrub worthy of including is the cistus or rock rose. Again, from the Mediterranean, it is happiest in a hot dry border and will add lots of colour during the summer months. Available with pink, white or red flowers they are fairly hardy, but may need protection during the coldest weather. Cistus creticus grows to a manageable H1m x W1m and produces vibrant pinky-purple flowers with a yellow centre. Cistus creticus For a larger shrub, C. ladanifer or the gum cistus can reach H2m x W1.5m and displays cool white flowers with a dark red basal stain from June to August. It is hardy down to -10C so should fair well here in the UK except in the harshest of winters. For a variegated option, you could try C. × hybridus ‘Gold Prize’ with its green and gold leaves. Reaching H1.5m x W1.5m it will brighten up a sunny spot with its white flowers with yellow centres. 7) Deutzia HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: APRIL – JULY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Raspberry Sundae’, ‘Nikko’, ‘Strawberry Fields’ Deutzias mainly originated from Asia and are relatively uncommon here in the UK, but are definitely worth considering. They are deciduous shrubs that will adorn your garden with beautiful white or pink star-shaped flowers, which are sometimes scented. Preferring a south or west-facing aspect they require full sun or part shade and shelter away from winds. Deutzia ‘Raspberry Sundae’ is a small compact variety that will grow to only H1m x W1m. D gracilis ‘Nikko’ In early summer stunning pink and white scented flowers appear that can last for weeks. Being deciduous it loses its leaves in winter, but only after turning a lovely auburn colour. D. gracilis ‘Nikko’ is another smaller variety reaching H1m x W1m and produces the most stunning white flowers. Being relatively hardy this variety will withstand temperatures of down to -15C. For a stunning new variety, it is worth considering D. x hybrida ‘Strawberry Fields’. It is one for a larger spot reaching H2m x W2m over time and will dazzle with its pink flowers during June and July. 8) Daphne HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: VARIES RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘ETERNAL FRAGRANCE’, ‘CAROL MACKIE’ The shrubs mentioned above flower during the summer months, but if you are after a shrub that will flower on and on from spring through to autumn then Daphne × transatlantica ‘Eternal Fragrance’ is hard to beat. Suitable for large pots or containers, ‘Eternal Fragrance’ will live up to its name and produce deliciously scented small white flowers. The scent is so good it would be a shame not to put it somewhere you’ll walk past often so you can enjoy it. D. ‘Eternal Fragrance’ This daphne is rather compact and slow-growing reaching H1m x W1m over time. Ideally suited to full sun, it can cope with part shade, but needs to be in a sheltered spot. A word of warning though, daphnes don’t take well to being transplanted, so it’s worth trying to put it in its final position first time round. 9) Olearia HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – AUGUST RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Macrodonta’ 10) Fuchsia HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Whiteknights Pearl’ 11) Hibiscus HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘BLUE BIRD’ 12) Salvia HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – AUGUST RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Hot Lips’ 13) Spirea HARDINESS: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – AUGUST RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘NANA’ 14) Escallonia HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘LANGLEYENSIS’ 15) Potentilla HARDINESS: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Medicine Wheel Mountain’, ‘King Cup’ Shrubs can sometimes be thought of as rather municipal or boring, but this doesn’t have to be the case as there are some truly beautiful shrubs that will brighten up any garden over the summer months.
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8 Expert-Approved Topiary Trees & Bushes For Amazing Garden Shapes
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Topiary Topiary Types 1) Common Yew (Taxus baccata) 2) Thuja (Arborvitae) 3) Privet (Ligustrum) 4) ‘Japanese Hollies’ (Ilex crenata) 5) Honeysuckle (Lonicera) 6) Alberta Spruces (Picea glauca) 7) Wall Germander (Teucrium) 8) Box Wood (Buxus) References Be it a simple ball or cube, or an intricate tiger or motor car, a sculpted tree or hedge grabs your attention. The (very old) art form of topiary has enjoyed something of a resurgence during the past century, and, though crafting representational forms is an acquired skill, you can make simple shapes if you merely choose the right tree or bush. In this guide, we have collaborated with Darren Lerigo, a Topiary Artist based in the UK who is a member of the European Boxwood and Topiary Society and is the founder of Modern Mint. One may define Topiary as the art of sculpting with plants and trees, but just as the sculptor requires the right type of marble or other material, so too does the topiarist need a ’sculptable’ member of the Plant Kingdom. Most are not sculptable at all while a few are more sculptable than some others. The art and technique of this nature-sculpting involves patient, continual, and progressive training, pruning, and clipping of the subject shrub or tree. Though topiary is very much an ‘in thing’ in the British Isles and has been so for decades, it comes down to us from the classical world. Reputedly, the ancient Greeks enjoyed making simple forms and shapes with plant life.1 You too could start off by making simple spherical and conical forms and other geometric shapes before proceeding to more ambitious ‘tree sculptures.’ “For clients’ gardens, we always start with a structure, which is usually in the form of a topiary,” shares Garden Designer Kate Gould. We do know that topiary took off in Rome during the rule of Augustus Caesar.2 One Gaius Matius Calvinus, a horticulturist friend of Julius Caesar and his adopted son Octavian, later Augustus, played the major role in popularising this art form. Quite possibly this art arrived on Anglo-Saxon shores after the Roman conquests during the reign of Claudius Caesar.3 Topiary probably reached its high-water mark in Great Britain at the close of the Seventeenth Century. Historical Knot Garden in Sudeley Castle Grounds During the Tudor and Stuart Periods, hedge mazes and knot gardens, which are advanced forms of topiary, were all the rage in aristocratic gardens. Since the anti-topiary 1740s, this gardener’s art form has had its ups and downs in the British Isles as well as in other European countries.4 Today, its foremost practitioners are the Dutch, French, Italians, Americans, and – of course – the British. Some British nurseries even have a separate department for topiary plants, and a few specialise in hedging and topiary. Ready-to-go boxwood topiaries are – of course – also available. As for the budding topiarist, they can choose from a variety of topiary shears and pruners, and instructional books. Expert-Chosen Topiary “After Boxwood and Yew, which are the two classic plants used for topiary, I love some of the deciduous plants native to the UK,” says Darren. “Hawthorn is great for topiary because it is a fast-growing plant that can cope in our climate, that also gives you blossom in late spring, haws in autumn and, when mature, a twisty trunk full of character. “After a few years of clipping, the branches get knitted together and thorny. This looks brilliant against the sky in winter when the plant is denuded of leaves. “Birch is another plant I’m trying to use,” Darren shares. “Again, you get the bark on the trunk that stands out in winter and then the yellow leaf in Autumn, adding seasonal interest to your garden. “Birch also has this odd branch structure once the leaves have fallen off, which has the appearance of dark buckwheat honey dripping in its own time off a spoon. “I like that and, when made as a topiary, it catches the attention of those that visit the garden. “I am also experimenting with oak as a hedge and as a topiary to see what happens,” explains Darren. “Oak is slow-growing, but we know it supports such a lot of wildlife, so why not use it!” Topiary Types Which ’sculpting material’ should you choose, though? In general, the bush or tree should be evergreen, leaves should be on the small side or be scale-like or needle-like, the bush or tree should exhibit density of branching and density of foliage, and have a ‘tight’ or non-sprawling habit. Over and above that, you need to choose the ‘material’ from the Plant Kingdom that is right for your planned topiary subject. As an obvious example, some bushes lend themselves to shorter, flatter and longer shapes; others to tall and narrow forms. We assist you in selecting the precise tree or bush for the particular garden shape you have in mind. 1) Common Yew (Taxus baccata) Yews rank at Number One because they are tried and tested topiary media for centuries, are still going strong, and possess all the desirable qualities of topiary plants, to which they even add a few of their own. A Yew is very long-lived and so can be a multi-generational heritage, it grows from green wood but also regenerates from brown wood, and its dense foliage typically comprises of needle-like leaves with shades varying from yellow-gold to sparkling, brilliant green. Though a good few Taxus varieties, particularly T. baccata cultivars, make excellent topiary bushes, it is difficult to look beyond T. baccata or Common Yew because of its extraordinary qualities. Where Taxus and Yews are the subject, the varieties are only interesting ‘nice to haves’ for something a little different; for serious topiary it is almost all about Common Yew. Its somewhat springy branches can take tough training just as well as they can withstand pruning and clipping, as the bush is shaped into whatever whimsical shape. An Airborne View of an Old Yew Maze To explain it thus, if a goodly number Thuja varieties are as if made to order for specific shapes, then Common Yew is the lump of clay or the piece of Parian that can reliably be sculpted into anything at all (provided the topiarist is a master). Just as topiary tyros ought to start with Thuja, Topiary’s Rodins and Michelangelos tend to opt for T. baccata. Besides being long-lived, for a bush or a hedge, Common Yew is massive, as it can spread to eight 8m or more and rise to more than 12m with a height of ten being common. If you’d like to build a Stuart Period maze over the next several years, get yourself a few dozen Common Yews. Best for: T. baccata ‘Repens aurea’: Very small sizes, knot gardens Taxus x media ‘Densiformis’: Small sizes, ovoid forms, horizontally elongated shapes T. baccata ‘Standishii’: Small sizes, (mini) spires, spirals T. baccata ‘Semperaurea’: Medium sizes, hexahedrons, representational shapes Taxus x media ‘Hicksii’: Large sizes, mazes, representational shapes T. baccata ‘Fastigiata’: Large sizes, columns, obelisks, spirals T. baccata: Ultra-large sizes, high mazes, representational shapes, anything at all “I have also used Taxus x media ‘Hillii’ to establish low-growing parterre topiary due to its compact and dense qualities,” shares Horticultural Consultant Roy Nicol. 2) Thuja (Arborvitae) Thuja (or Arborvita, incorrectly called ‘Cedar’) varieties fully deserve their lofty ranking because they are ready-made topiaries direct from Mother Nature’s nursery. Decide on the shape(s) you want, choose the appropriate Thuja cultivar(s), and…grab a drink and lie back – it’ll work out by itself. Though – of course – it won’t quite pan out that way, there’s more than a grain of truth to the exaggeration. Particular Thuja grow so naturally into particular shapes that all you need to do is help them along without much planning or clipping – just ideal for the ‘One-Minute Gardener.’ Thuja varieties also possess all the other essentials that make a plant an excellent medium for topiary, from being evergreen to so cold-hardy that some are good for growing in Siberia! Many Thuja Varieties are Perfect for Spirals and Columns Because of the extraordinary abundance of Thuja varieties that are great for topiary, we list each one’s name along with only one shape. Obviously, a variety that is perfect for one shape will also be very good for closely-related forms so we mention one alternate in parens for each variety. It must be mentioned that it would not be reasonable if one were to try to work a Thuja variety into a shape that is in strong conflict with its natural form and habit as this would be working against Nature. Finally, bear in mind that it’s not only about shapes – if one Thuja variety has stunning lime-green foliage, another has equally stunning golden foliage, and yet others will turn flaming orange or bronze-purple in autumn. All the following are T. occidentalis or T. plicata varieties. Each are best for: ‘Danica’: Very small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Amber Glow’: Very small sizes, ovoids (and spheres) ‘Tater Tot’: Very small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’: Small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Stoneham Gold’: Medium sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Smaragd’: Medium sizes, spires (and spirals) ‘Rheingold’: Medium sizes, ovoids (and boxes) ‘North Pole’: Medium sizes, spires (and columns) ‘Fluffy’: Medium sizes, cones (and pyramids) ‘Janed Gold’: Large sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Polar Gold’: Large sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Degroot’s Spire’: Very large sizes, spires (and spirals) T. occidentalis: Very large sizes, spires (and columns) ‘Irish Gold’: Very large sizes, cones (and pyramids) T. plicata: Ultra-large sizes, narrow pyramids (and columns) ‘Aurea’: Ultra-large sizes, cones (and cylinders) ‘Green Giant’: Ultra-large sizes, cones (and pyramids) 3) Privet (Ligustrum) Privet is virtually synonymous with hedging in view of the ubiquity of privet hedges and because – rightly or wrongly – it is the default choice for hedging and, consequently, simple topiary shapes. Privets are varieties of the Ligustrum genus. Where topiary is concerned one may divide Privets into three broad categories: L. ovalifolium and its cultivars, L. japonicum and its cultivars, and the rest and remainder. The main difference is that L. japonicum and its cultivars have stiff, ‘springy’ branches compared to L. ovalifolium and its cultivars, and the former’s leaves are rounded, waxy and wavy compared to the more ‘normal’ leaves of L. ovalifolium and cultivars. L. ovalifolium varieties have a moderate growth rate while L. japonicum varieties grow more slowly. A Privet Lion at Rhode Island’s Topiary Gardens Both species and their respective cultivars are as tough as nails, and tolerate both, adverse soil conditions and heavy pruning and trimming. Most of them are just hardy enough for almost the entire UK at hardiness H5. Ligustrum varieties offer just about the widest choice in foliage type and foliage colouration among topiary plants. They are most suitable for hedging, hexahedrons, cubes, and also curved shapes. Finally, one of the best privets for intricate topiary comes from the ‘rest and remainder’ of Ligustrum species. This is slow-growing L. delavayanum which is a top choice for representational topiary. Best for: L. japonicum ‘Rotundifolium’: Small sizes, upright ovoids, elongated shapes L. ovalifolium: Medium sizes, hexahedral shapes, cubes, curved shapes L. japonicum: Medium sizes, hexahedral shapes, cubes, curved shapes L. delavayanum: representational topiary For out of the ordinary ‘coloured’ topiary, consider these colourful varieties: L. ovalifolium ‘Aureum’ L. ovalifolium ‘Argenteum’ L. japonicum ‘Variegatum’ L. ibota ‘Musli’ L. undulatum ‘Lemon and Lime Clippers’ 4) ‘Japanese Hollies’ (Ilex crenata) Ilex crenata cultivars vary quite widely in height and spread, and even in habit and form, but before we get to those, let’s look at what they have in common. To begin with, they possess all the desirable qualities of a topiary medium and are super-hardy, being good down to H6. A few I. crenata cultivars are becoming the go-to alternatives to Box Wood, especially for shaped hedging. Japanese Hollies are sometimes attacked by aphids and scale but, unlike the ravages being wreaked on Box Wood, such as blight and box tree moth caterpillar, these plants’ infestations are episodic. Japanese Holly Topiary, Japanese Style! I. crenata typically reaches about 4m with a spread of about 1m while cultivar ‘Convexa’ grows to about 2m with a spread of about one. In between, rising to about three metres is cultivar ‘Fastigiata’ with its name indicating its fastigiate habit. All three have tiny, glossy leaves, which is another tick mark for a topiary plant. All three varieties can bear small white flowers in the summer and black berries in autumn but the topiarist will not be interested in blooms and berries interfering with his geometric shapes. Best for: I. crenata: Large sizes, mazes, tall hedging, geometrical shapes ‘Fastigiata’: Medium sizes, columns, cylinders, obelisks ‘Convexa’: Small sizes, low hedging, boxes, curved shapes “Ilex crenata is a difficult plant to grow well as it demands exacting growing conditions,” says Roy. “For this reason, I recommend it is used by experienced gardeners who can provide these conditions.” 5) Honeysuckle (Lonicera) Lonicera ligustrina var. pileata or Box-Leaved Honeysuckle and Lonicera ligustrina var. yunnanensis or Wilson’s Honeysuckle are ideally suited to topiary. And so much so that perhaps these excellent sculpting plants should rank higher but they are simply not as tried and tested as those ranked above them. All the attributes necessary for a first-class topiary plant are found in spades in these two Lonicera varieties, and they are also fully hardy – Zone H6. They are also tough plants that are tolerant of severe clipping. All this means that you can get ambitious with Lonicera Honeysuckle. Box-Leaved Honeysuckle will Bear Flowers and Berries if you’re not Careful! L. ligustrina var. yunnanensis typically reaches dimensions of 3.5m by 3m while L. ligustrina var. pileata is more compact and more ‘horizontal’ at about 0.75m by 2m. Topiarists may or may not want the added colour of the small summer flowers and autumn berries but the bright green foliage is something they will go for. If one side or end of a topiary Lonicera is not severely trimmed, it will produce flowers. Best for: Medium sizes, intricate shapes, representational forms. 6) Alberta Spruces (Picea glauca) Alberta Spruces, varieties of Picea glauca, are probably the up-and-comers in the Topiary Sweepstakes. As Northern Spruces they are super-hardy. The two cultivars that we recommend are P. glauca var. albertiana ‘Conica’ and P. glauca var. albertiana ‘Alberta Globe’. Both have stiff, needle-like foliage that grows very densely and rather slowly, and they bring that bonus typical of many spruces: invigoratingly fresh-scented foliage. What these two cultivars markedly differ in are their respective sizes and natural shapes. Alberta Spruces are Perfect for these Kinds of Topiaries ‘Conica’ typically attains a height of 2-plus metres and a spread of about one, and makes a natural – surprise! – conical form. ‘Alberta Globe’ grows to a little under 1m in diameter – and we hardly need to spell out its natural shape. If you’re going for cones and spheres, you will not need to exert yourself much with these choices. Look for other Picea varieties that make good topiary media. You can be one of the early adopters of P. glauca ‘Echiniformis’, P. glauca ‘Arneson’s Blue Variegated’, and P. pungens (Glauca Group) ‘Koster’. Best for: ‘Conica’: Medium sizes, cones, pyramids, spirals ‘Alberta Globe’: Small sizes, balls, ovoids, curved shapes 7) Wall Germander (Teucrium) Fully hardy Wall Germander, Teucrium chamaedrys, should not be confused with tender Bush Germander which is a top choice for good-sized topiary ‘statutory’ projects. Unfortunately, it is hardy only to Zone H3 whereas Wall Germander is hardy to H6. This doesn’t mean that the latter should be perceived as a ‘lesser Germander’ for it has its own forte, as does close relative Teucrium × lucidrys or Hybrid Germander which is hardy to Zone H4. A parterre de broderie in a French garden They have a particularly dense bushy habit and this attribute combined with the small leaves and their rich deep hue make them great topiary plants. Both plants emit a pleasant crisp aroma, especially when brushed against, adding to their happy attributes. They grow to only about 30cm and have a similar spread, making them ideal for low designs, including knot gardens, which feature low-slung but long, interwoven, abstract patterns. Best for: Small sizes, low intricate designs, serpentine shapes, knot gardens 8) Box Wood (Buxus) Trusty old Box Wood, this usually being Buxus sempervirens, Buxus microphylla, or one or another of their various cultivars, closes our list just outside the Super Seven. Box Wood would have ranked, and high at that, but over the past several years box blight and box tree caterpillar have been on a cross-country rampage, laying waste to Box in ever-increasing regions in the UK. Therefore, even though Box Wood is one of the most tried and true topiary media, it is probably not a very good choice to begin a new topiary project because, like as not, you’ll be waging a virtually unwinnable, never-ending battle with box blight, box tree caterpillar, or both. Is the Sun Setting for Good on Box Wood? In addition, Box varieties are increasingly being affected by other pests and diseases such as Fluted Scale and Volutella blight. Caveats done, as the long-term traditional automatic pick for hedging and medium-sized topiary as well as being a great option for beginners, Box deserves to be listed with an honourable mention. Best for: Medium sizes, balls, cubes and representational shapes. References 1. The History of Topiary. (n.d.). Grimsthorpe Castle, Park and Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.grimsthorpe.co.uk/the-history-of-topiary/ 2. History: It All Began with the Romans. . . (n.d.). Center for Architecture. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.centerforarchitecture.org/digital-exhibitions/article/topiary-tango/history-it-all-began-with-the-romans/ 3. The history of topiary. (n.d.). Agrumi: Bespoke Topiary Plant Sculptures. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://topiaryart.co.uk/the-history-of-topiary/ 4. Moss, S. (2018, December). Cultivating curiosities: plants as collections in the 18th century. University of York. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/24026/1/Cultivating%20Curiosities%20-%20Suzanne%20Moss%20PhD%20thesis%20FINAL%20v2.pdf
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You Can Keep Your Hydrangea Blue With An Acidifying Routine, But Is It Really Worth It?
IN THIS GUIDE Why Common Solutions Are Not A Good Idea Is Blue Hydrangea Really Right For You? How To Keep Soil Acidic For Potted Hydrangeas Alternative Shrubs With Blue Flowers Don’t Be Blue References Some hydrangeas will be pink or blue depending on the pH of the soil in a garden and its mineral composition. For blue flowers on your hydrangea the soil needs to have an acidic pH level of between 5.2 and 5.5. It will also need soil that has a high level of aluminium in its chemical, mineral composition. It is possible to keep a blue hydrangea blue, even when the soil will not naturally allow it, but you’ll need to keep up an acidifying routine over time. And it will not be the most eco-friendly or sustainable choice. Why Common Solutions Are Not A Good Idea 1) Blueing Agents / Aluminium Sulphate Do not be tempted to buy ‘blueing agents’ like aluminium sulphate! Effects are fast – and these will certainly keep blue hydrangeas blue over time. However, a lot of this substance will reduce pH more than you wish, and it can also potentially affect phosphorus levels in soil. Since phosphorus is one of three key nutrients required for plant growth, this can have detrimental effects on the garden.1 Applying aluminium sulphate can also lead to excessive and potentially toxic levels of aluminium in soil.2 This not only makes it difficult to garden successfully but also damages the precious ecosystem of the soil which – as organic gardeners – we should be doing our very best to protect. 2) Synthetic Fertilisers You should also avoid synthetic fertilisers – those which contain ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate for example. These may be somewhat effective in making soil more acidic, but the costs are too great to countenance. Avoid these harmful products at all costs to ensure that you are not contributing to our climate crisis or environmental destruction.3 The ammonia industry, from which synthetic nitrogen fertilisers are derived, is one of the most problematic and polluting industries, and one of the main contributors to global warming.4 3) Peat Don’t use sphagnum peat moss / peat to add acidity either. As an eco-friendly gardener, it is important to remember that peat bogs are an important carbon sink.5 Contributing to their destruction through your gardening practices is never a sustainable choice. Is Blue Hydrangea Really Right For You? Trying to keep blue hydrangeas blue in an area where they are not naturally this shade is a lot of work. And really, you need to ask yourself whether it is really worth the bother. Pink Hydrangeas Can Look Good Too You may prefer the blue to the pink blooms that would naturally occur on a hydrangea in the garden. But in that case, you might be better simply to select a different plant. There is nothing wrong with pink hydrangeas either. These can be attractive in a garden too if this is the natural hue for these plants where you live. So you are better to embrace the pink, or, if you really dislike the pink flowers, to remove the plant or plants and opt for a different planting scheme instead. If you do decide to grow a blue hydrangea in a garden with more neutral or alkaline soil, think carefully before you decide to bother with this. Honestly, it is far, far better to choose plants that are already ideally suited to the natural soil conditions where you live. If you really are dead set on having a blue-flowered hydrangea, it is best to grow it in a container, so you can more easily manage the intense ongoing routine and make sure you can maintain the right acidic and aluminium-rich conditions which are required without causing as much damage in the surrounding ecosystem. How To Keep Soil Acidic For Potted Hydrangeas To make sure that you maintain the right, acidic conditions for a blue hydrangea grown in a pot or container, you will need to use an ericaceous compost, and replenish it regularly. Adding sulphur, and acidic organic materials may also help to a degree, though these will only acidify soil very slowly, and will not always do so to the degree required to keep your hydrangea blooming blue. If you do consider adding sulphur to the soil, or to a growing medium you are using, remember that its efficacy will vary depending on the composition of the soil or potting mix. The acidity of the mix will also depend on the water you use to water them, and on the natural rainfall in your area, so this is another important factor to take into account. Fertilisers which are low in phosphorous and high in potassium can also be helpful in producing good blue colouration. A good fertiliser ratio to aim for is 25/5/30 NPK, though remember that you should always seek out organic fertilisers (or make your own). You will need to monitor and maintain the pH of your soil – usually through the use of soil testing kits. It might also be worth checking out other companion plants that also prefer acidic soil conditions. Alternative Shrubs With Blue Flowers If you are struggling to keep your hydrangea blue, then you may be better simply choosing an alternative shrub with blue flowers. Blue flowers can be beautiful in a garden – and hydrangeas certainly aren’t the only option. Some other shrubs with blue flowers to consider include: 1) Buddleja (e.g. ‘Empire Blue’) 2) Ceanothus (Californian lilac) 3) Caryopteris x clandonensis (Blue mist bush) 4) Hibiscus syriacus (Blue Rose of Sharon) 5) Lavenders 6) Syringa vulgaris (Lilacs, e.g. ‘Nadezhda’) 7) Rosemary Of all of these, Ceanothus is perhaps the best alternative shrub for blue flowers for areas where there is alkaline or neutral soil. It will thrive in many gardens as long as it is in a sunny spot, with moist but well-drained or well-drained soil, and will not require an intensive regime to maintain its blue blooms over time. Its blooms are even more impressive than those on a hydrangea, and there are varieties that can be chosen for true blue blooms throughout much of the year. There are also plenty of other blue flowering perennials to consider for the space vacated by a hydrangea whose blooms are somewhat variable in a garden. Don’t Be Blue If you choose the right plants for the location then you can enjoy blue blooms in the garden over a long period of time, without having to do a lot of maintenance work. Remember, it is always better to choose plants suited to the garden, rather than trying to amend conditions to suit specific plants. Choose the right plants for the right places and you can create a far more low-maintenance and eco-friendly garden. References 1. Cho, R. (2013, April 1). Phosphorus: Essential to Life—Are We Running Out? State of the Planet. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://news.climate.columbia.edu/2013/04/01/phosphorus-essential-to-life-are-we-running-out/ 2. Panhwar, Q. A., Naher, U. A., Radziah, O., Shamshuddin, J., & Razi, I. M. (2015). Eliminating Aluminum Toxicity in an Acid Sulfate Soil for Rice Cultivation Using Plant Growth Promoting Bacteria. Molecules, 20(3), 3628–3646. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules20033628 3. Buckler, L. (2018, April 1). The Hidden Dangers of Chemical Fertilizers. Occupational Health & Safety. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://ohsonline.com/articles/2017/12/07/the-hidden-dangers-of-chemical-fertilizers.aspx 4. Ammonia emissions from agriculture continue to pose problems for Europe. (2019, June 28). European Environment Agency. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.eea.europa.eu/highlights/ammonia-emissions-from-agriculture-continue 5. Peatlands store twice as much carbon as all the world’s forests. (2019, February 1). United Nations Environment Programme. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/peatlands-store-twice-much-carbon-all-worlds-forests
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