Growing
These 12 Crassula Species And Cultivars Make Fantastic Houseplants For A Bright Spot
IN THIS GUIDE 1) ‘Gollum’ 2) ‘ET’s Fingers’ 3) Tricolour 4) ‘Hummel’s Sunset’ 5) ‘Sunset Magic’ 6) ‘Minova Magic’ 7) ‘Crasmada’ 8) ‘Blue Surprise’ 9) ‘Undulata’ 10) Dwarf Jade Plant 11) ‘Crosby’s Dwarf’ 12) ‘Minima’ References Crassula is native to the South-Eastern part of South Africa and Mozambique, being especially abundant in the Eastern Cape. It was first studied and described in 1768 by British botanists and has been cultivated in Europe and the United States since the 1800s.1 Crassula ovata is only one species of the approximately 200 in the rich and diverse Crassula genus of succulents.2 ‘Campfire’ Crassula This species has between 20-30 cultivars, some of which are quite well-known. “Crassula species and cultivars make fantastic, eye-catching houseplants for a bright spot,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “They are also good as outdoor potted plants in the summer months where the high light levels will produce attractive red colouration of the leaves.” Most are differentiated by the colours, forms, or shapes of their leaves. “My favourite succulent to grow is the Curly Jade Plant (C. arborescens), as this plant shows all the attributes of a perfect succulent” argues Ralph Behrmann from Clouds Hill Succulents. “Its leaves are beautiful light green with blue undertones and develop a red ending in strong sunlight. It is a fast grower for succulents”. Crassula arborescens Here are a few such well-known varieties along with a few less well-known but interesting ones: 1) ‘Gollum’ Also Known As: ‘Monstruosa’ A curiosity that has leaves that are elongated and shaped like narrow tubes, often with red-tinted tips. 2) ‘ET’s Fingers’ Another curiosity that has leaves that are elongated and resemble stubby tubes and have a concavity at the tip which is often tinged with red. The names ‘Gollum’ and ‘E.T.’s Fingers’ are sometimes used interchangeably but these are subtly different cultivars. 3) Tricolour So named for its variegated leaves on which shades of cream, yellow, and green run together and intermingle. 4) ‘Hummel’s Sunset’ This cultivar is distinguished by the rich yellow swaths and shadings on its leaves and yellow and red edging. 5) ‘Sunset Magic’ An eye-catching cultivar whose perfectly ovate and flat leaves are different shades of light green with a thick red bordering that enters into the lamina and intermingles with green. 6) ‘Minova Magic’ This varietal has unusually-shaped leaves: instead of ovate they are spade-like or spatulate and are a dark, deep shade of green. 7) ‘Crasmada’ Patented in 2015, this variety is distinguished by large, dark green leaves that have an upward curl and an incurved margin.3 8) ‘Blue Surprise’ Well, it is not actually blue but the leaves are a striking shade of green, call it slate grey-green with a bluish tinge. Moreover, they are curly and curvy, making this a very distinct cultivar. 9) ‘Undulata’ Also Known As: Jitters; Ripple; Wavy Jade A highly distinct variety, the leaves of this cultivar are emerald green edged with red, they are thinner than normal and sharply wavy with a somewhat crinkly appearance reminding one of lettuce. 10) Dwarf Jade Plant Also Known As: Dwarf Green Similar to the mother species except that, as the name implies, it is a dwarf variety; it attains a maximum height of only 90cm. 11) ‘Crosby’s Dwarf’ Also Known As: Crosby’s Compact As the name suggests, it is both a dwarf and compact, reaching a height of only 90 centimetres. With adequate sunlight, its red-edged leaves become more red, including fully red, than almost all other varieties. 12) ‘Minima’ Similar to the mother species except that this dwarf variety is the smallest and most compact, reaching a maximum height of only 75cm and a width of only 50cm. References 1. Crassula ovata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:273350-1 2. Crassula Archives. (n.d.). Surreal Succulents. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://surrealsucculents.co.uk/product-category/crassula/ 3. Crassula plant named ‘Crasmada.’ (2014, November 27). Google Patents. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://patents.google.com/patent/USPP28426
Learn more
Make Your Own Cactus Potting Mix With Recipes From Sarah Gerrard-Jones And The BCSS
IN THIS GUIDE Why Cacti Need A Cactus Mix What Is Cactus Mix? Making Your Own Cactus Mix Which ‘Recipe’ Should You Choose? References Growing cacti can be a lot of fun. Although they can be easy to care for, one non-negotiable is that they do need to be grown in a suitable cactus mix. Learn how to make the ideal potting soil for cacti in this guide. Why Cacti Need A Cactus Mix Most cacti grow in warm and dry conditions. Our homes can provide the appropriate temperatures for these heat-loving plants, but if we fail to provide an appropriate growing medium then they will not be very happy. Cacti grown in an unsuitable medium can often suffer from root rot. Providing a growing medium which is suitably free-draining is essential if you are to grow cacti successfully in your home. The first thing to understand when choosing or creating a potting soil for cacti is where those cacti come from and the conditions in their native range. “Cacti in the wild have adapted to the harsh conditions they receive,” says Darren Evans, Plant Manager at Pugh’s Cacti. “Their roots grow down deep where it’s cooler and more moisture in the soil can be found. The body of the cactus is well established to defend itself from the sun and dry wind. “A cactus in a small pot needs more care to keep it hydrated and prevent scorching. On a hot day, the water in a pot can evaporate before the cactus has had time to draw it in and replenish the water in its stem.” Most come from dry, arid areas where rainfall and humidity are very low, so they will need a very free-draining medium and care which mimics these conditions. However, some cacti come from rainforests and have much higher water and humidity needs.1 These are usually provided with a mix more like that used for the majority of other houseplants. What Is Cactus Mix? Cactus mix is the name given to commercial potting soil which has been specifically formulated for the growth of typical arid-climate cacti and other similar succulent plants. It has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. “Our plants arrive in a special free-draining succulent potting mix,” says Ralph Behrmann, Owner of Clouds Hill Succulents. “When repotting, it is important to use a free-draining mix too, otherwise there is a risk that roots may root due to the soil not drying quickly enough.” By choosing a cactus mix which does not allow water to remain around cacti roots, those growing them indoors can avoid issues with root rot or waterlogging, which reduces the health of the plants. However, a far better option than purchasing a commercial cactus mix is making your own. Making your own cactus mix can, of course, save you money, but another thing is that a homemade mix may actually be superior for the specific cactus or cacti you wish to grow. Another thing to consider is that some commercial mixes contain peat, which is not an eco-friendly or sustainable material. By making your own you can make sure you avoid causing environmental harm through your gardening choices. Making Your Own Cactus Mix The basics of creating a cactus mix suitable for growing cacti indoors involves thinking about the qualities of the medium you create. As mentioned above, a free-draining mix is essential for most cacti and that involves adding plenty of inorganic materials which allow water to drain through easily and quickly. However, while you want the mix to drain freely, cacti will need some water available, and some nutrients on which to feed. That means that in addition to these inorganic materials, we also usually need to provide some level of organic material too. “For the soil, a simple mix of standard garden compost and sharp sand is sufficient and cheap,” says Ralph. The proportions of inorganic to organic materials in a cactus mix are a matter of some debate. There are diverse opinions on this, but, to a degree, it will always depend on the specific type of cactus you wish to grow. The RHS recommends that, in general, desert cacti and other succulents can be planted in a potting mix of John Innes No. 2 with horticultural grit, fine gravel or coarse sand (up to 30% by volume) added to the mix.2 However, since a free-draining mix is desired for cacti, it may be necessary to sieve out larger pieces of woody material from your mix. It is best to avoid peat-based formulations, not only for environmental reasons but also because peat can retain too much moisture, but is also more difficult to rehydrate once it dries out. Coir-based mixes are an increasingly popular choice for cacti growers. Our first mix therefore is: 70% light, John Innes no 2. compost 30% horticultural grit or coarse (not builders’) sand However, another thing to note is that many cacti growers recommend a much grittier, sandier mix. The British Cacti and Succulent Society (BCSS) suggest that the vast majority of cacti and other succulents will thrive in a mix with around equal amounts of potting mix and inorganic materials which improve drainage like grit or coarse sand. The BCSS typical cactus mix would be: 50% peat-free compost (with coconut coir, woody material or recycled waste) 50% gritty material The BCSS also notes that for cacti prone to root rotting problems, there is another option: a clay granular substance which is used as a stand-alone growing medium or in compost mixes.3 “Cacti and succulents need to be grown in a gritty compost that has no peat in it,” shares Peter Bint, the current secretary of the BCSS. “The compost ideally should be at least 30% grit and humus-rich soil.” Sarah Gerrard-Jones, also known online as The Plant Rescuer, has her own recommendation for a simple, sandy cacti mix: “For cacti and succulents, use 75% grit or sand to 25% potting compost.” You could also make your own potting mix, without buying a potting mix to work from, for your cacti from: 65% sharp sand/grit mix 30% sterilised loam or light garden soil 5% leaf mould There are literally thousands of different recipes out there, using a wide range of ingredients for both the inorganic and organic portions of the mix. For the inorganic components, other options include pumice, perlite, and even chicken grit or cat litter. For the organic components, some advocate using some worm castings from a vermicomposting system, or other homemade composts in relatively small amounts. Some use coconut coir, and others use bark fines or something similar. Which ‘Recipe’ Should You Choose? It is important to understand that there is not one correct formula when it comes to creating the perfect mix for cacti. “A bit of research will pay off when thinking about which mix to use,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Although all adapted to cope with drought, succulents and cacti vary greatly in where they have adapted to grow. “Experimentation with different mixes will also allow you to work out what works best for the specific plants and growing environment you have.” Expert opinions will differ greatly, and while you can create a reasonably effective free-draining medium rather easily, finding the optimal variation will be a much greater challenge. However, this should not put you off. The notes above should make it easier for you to find and make a potting mix for cacti which keeps your plants pretty happy and healthy and, over time, you can experiment a little and find your own perfect potting mix recipes for cacti and succulents – as well as for other plants. “Think about adding extra air and drainage to the soil,” shares Houseplant Expert Jane Perrone. “I use a lot of expanded clay pebbles, which you can add to the substrate or put underneath the pot to help with humidity.” Remember, the goal is to mimic as closely as possible the growing conditions where the cacti you are growing indoors are usually naturally found. As long as you can approximate those conditions then you should still find most cacti relatively hassle-free plants to grow at home. References 1. Hlaba, K. (2021). Rare and exotic tropical cactus from the Amazon rainforest to flower for the first time in the UK at Cambridge University Cambridge University Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.cambplants.group.cam.ac.uk/news/rare-and-exotic-tropical-cactus-amazon-rainforest-flower-first-time-uk-cambridge-university 2. How to grow cacti & succulent houseplants. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/cacti-succulents/houseplants/growing-guide 3. BCSS Homepage. (n.d.). British Cactus and Succulent Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://bcss.org.uk/
Learn more
Here's How To Grow Amazing Agave As Houseplants (Or Even Outdoors For Xeriscaping)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Agave? Common Varieties Where To Grow Agave Planting Agave Care References Agave succulents can be interesting houseplants and, though they are frost-tender, can be used in summer bedding schemes or in large containers outdoors over the summer months. If you are looking for a statement plant for a conservatory or other bright indoor locations, for a greenhouse, or for a summer bedding scheme or container garden, then Agave could be a good plant to consider. These interesting succulents make a dramatic show with their large rosettes of fleshy leaves. They may be used outdoors for xeriscaping (dry-climate planting) in more arid parts in the south of the UK. However, they are more commonly grown as houseplants, or as container plants which are placed outside only during the summer months. Overview Botanical Name Agave Common Name(s) Century Plant Plant Type Succulent / Perennial Native Area North & South America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Yellow and green When To Plant Spring and Summer Agave is a genus of monocot plants mostly native to arid and hot regions of North and South America.1 Along with the related yucca plant, Agaves are popular ornamental plants outdoors in hot, dry climates and are popular houseplants or summer outdoor plants in temperate zones. Agaves grow very slowly and are often also referred to by the name ‘century plants’. Agaves are succulents, storing water in their large, fleshy leaves, which typically form in large rosettes of sharp-edged, rigid foliage. Funnel-shaped flowers can form in racemes or panicles which often grow much taller than the rosettes of succulent leaves. “These types of plants, where seed is set once followed by death, are known as monocarpic,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For large Agave, such as A. americana, a mature plant can produce a flower stem up to 8m in length – a spectacular way to end its life cycle. “The yellow-green flowers are hugely attractive to pollinators (you’ll be able to hear them but not see them unless you have a long ladder). “But be warned – from bitter experience – the remains of large Agaves are not easy to remove!” Most often, Agaves have leaves which are a greyish-green, sometimes with creamy white or yellow margins. Why Grow Agave? While Agave is typically just grown for its interesting architectural form in the UK, in its native ranges this is a plant with many uses. Commercially, Agaves have long been grown for their fibres (sisal) and are used to make alcoholic drinks, such as tequila.2 Agave americana also has edible uses, as the heart of the plant is very rich in saccharine and can be eaten when baked.3 However, since harvesting the heart of the plant will kill it, this is not something that home growers will usually want to consider. Experimental gardeners may though be interested in tapping the plant for sap, which is used as a syrup or fermented to make alcoholic drinks.4 One thing to note if you plan on growing Agave is that the very sharp leaves can easily cut the unwary, and they should be carefully sited. Common Varieties Typical varieties of Agave grown in the UK include: A. americana A. americana ‘Mediopicta’ A. americana ‘Mediopicta Alba’ A. americana ‘Variegata’ A. attenuata A. filifera A. macroacantha A. montana A. obscura A. ovatifolia A. parrasana A. parryi A. parviflora A. potatorum A. salmiana var. ferox A. stricta A. titanota A. utahensis A. univittata A. victoriae-reginae These varieties have different forms and appearances, but all like broadly similar conditions to each other, and to other similar succulents that you might grow in your home or garden. Where To Grow Agave Agave plants all require warm to hot, sunny conditions and very free-draining soil. When grown in the ground over the summer months good drainage will be paramount, and the soil surrounding the plants should not be overly fertile, and should never be permanently moist. An acidic or neutral soil or growing medium is best. A. americana and A. parryi are the only two of these which can be hardy in extremely warm and sheltered gardens or in southern parts of the UK, however, these are still usually only H2 hardy and will not survive a freeze. In a few very limited situations it may be possible to grow these outdoors (perhaps with some winter protection) throughout the whole of the year. Winter wet is usually more of an issue than temperatures in such a situation. Planting on a mound or bank can help prevent water-logging which can cause plants to rot in winter. Most Agaves grown in beds and borders, however, should be lifted and moved into a bright and frost-free undercover location or indoors over the winter months. Container plants placed outdoors should also be brought undercover or indoors well before the first frosts. When growing Agave in a pot, as most people in the UK will do, using a cactus compost or other very free draining potting mix is important. A typical good-quality potting mix with plenty of grit added for drainage can also work well. Make sure that you choose a suitable container, which will not retain too much moisture and will allow water to drain very freely through the holes at the base. The containers can often be placed outdoors in summer, but can also be grown indoors as houseplants throughout the year. Growing under glass is usually best for most Agave in the UK, but remember that Agave succulents should be placed in as light and bright a position as possible, as they enjoy having plenty of light (as much light as possible!) throughout the year. Planting Agave plants can be purchased and planted in containers indoors at any time of the year, or outdoors in your garden from late spring/early summer as soon as the weather has reliably warmed and all risk of frost has long passed. Make sure that water cannot sit around the base of the plants, as it will cause rotting, and that any water can always drain away freely. Planting Agave succulents at an angle can help make sure that water can drain away freely. This is most important when Agave is grown outdoors where there is natural rainfall, as you will not always have control over watering. It can also be a good idea to place rocks or gravel around the base of the plants after planting, as this will further aid in combatting any drainage issues. Companion Planting In a warm, sunny and sheltered garden, which can be kept suitably dry and free-draining in winter, Agave can be grown alongside a number of other hardy succulents. For example, in a dry garden scheme, you might grow Agaves with other large arid climate plants such as Dasylirion, Nolina and Yucca. Agave in a container can be a great addition to a succulent collection which contains a wide variety of other succulents, bromeliads and cacti which are commonly grown as houseplants in the UK. Agave Care Agaves can be very low-maintenance plants where they are grown in suitable conditions. However, special care will be required when it comes to the avoidance of over-watering, as this plant, like many other succulents, will not tolerate damp or waterlogged conditions for any length of time. Watering Agave should be watered moderately over the summer months, but in the winter watering should be very sparing indeed. The plants will prefer to be kept almost entirely dry during the coldest months when they are not in active growth. Feeding Agaves in containers should be fed with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed every 2-3 weeks when they are in growth. Pests & Problems These succulents are usually trouble-free, though they can be attacked by pests such as scale insects, which excrete honeydew. This sticky substance can foster the growth of sooty moulds. Potting On Agave should be potted when the plants become pot-bound into a larger container. Make sure to take care whenever you are handling these sharp plants. Propagation Agaves will often produce offsets, which can be potted up at any time when they arise, usually in spring or autumn. If you place your Agave in a suitable location, and crucially, take care of watering and drainage, you should find them relatively easy and straightforward plants to grow. References 1. Schoellhorn, R., & Richardson, A. (n.d.). Warm Climate Production Guidelines For Agave. University of Florida. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/floriculture/pdfs/crop_production/Agave_ENHFL04-007.pdf 2. MasterClass. (2021, March 4). How Is Tequila Made? The 6 Steps of Making Tequila. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-is-tequila-made 3. Agave americana. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Agave+americana 4. Panchal, B. (2023, March 9). Why Agave Syrup is A Great Vegan Substitute For Honey. Holland & Barrett. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.hollandandbarrett.com/the-health-hub/food-drink/food/honey/agave-syrup-vegan-substitute-for-honey/
Learn more
Grow Opuntia 'Prickly Pear Cactus' Year-Round With These Environmental Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Why Grow Opuntia? How To Grow Prickly Pear Cactus Prickly Pear Cactus Care Troubleshooting Problems References A prickly pear cactus can be an interesting houseplant to grow, and can also be a drought-tolerant container plant for a patio over the summer months. There are many different prickly pear cacti which can be grown as houseplants or in a greenhouse under glass here in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Opuntia Common Name(s) Prickly Pear Cactus Plant Type Cacti / Houseplant Native Area Central & Northern Mexico Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Sometimes flowers depending on variety and conditions When To Sow (Indoors) Year-Round Prickly pear cacti are plants in the Opuntia genus. According to Kew records, there are 136 confirmed species within this genus, and a number of these can be grown as houseplants in the UK.1 Opuntia can come in a wide range of different forms and sizes – some grow no bigger than around 30cm in height, while others can eventually tower to over 5m. They usually have flattened pad-like stem sections with spines and barbs, and (when grown in optimal conditions) produce funnel-shaped flowers in various colours (typically pink, red or yellow) followed by fleshy, spiny and sometimes edible fruits. Common Varieties Let’s take a look at three of the Prickly Pear Cactus varieties most commonly grown as houseplants here in the UK: Polka Dot Cactus / Bunny Ears Botanical Name: Opuntia microdasys This is the most commonly grown Opuntia here in the British Isles. This small Opuntia grows to just 30-45cm tall, and has oval pads with tufts of small, golden spines. Small yellow flowers can also form though these appear only very rarely. It has gained the RHS Award of Garden Merit.2 Edible Prickly Pear Botanical Name: Opuntia ficus-indica This is the most common of the Opuntias cultivated for edible fruit. It is grown for these fruits, and also for the prickly pads which are eaten as a vegetable known as ‘nopales’ – which is commonly eaten as an ingredient in Mexican recipes.3 Unfortunately, the fruits are only produced when the growing conditions are absolutely perfect, and so you may not see them when growing the plant as a houseplant here in the UK. This vegetable is said to have a texture and flavour which resembles green beans. Many-Spined Prickly Pear Botanical Name: Opuntia polyacantha O. polyacantha is another option that can be grown indoors or in a greenhouse, and which can be placed outside over the summer months. This is a spreading cactus which can ultimately grow over 2m in width and to a height of around 40cm. The flattened pads are covered with areoles which have hairs and spines protruding from them. In summer the plant will often yield magenta flowers which bloom on the end of the flat pads. “When buying cacti, often you will see cacti for sale with flowers on,” shares Dan Ori, Horticultural Consultant. “Unfortunately, they are rarely real and have been glued on, so it is worth checking the blooms against pictures of what they should look like as the fake flowers normally look different.” Why Grow Opuntia? Opuntias make interesting houseplants and conversation pieces. They are relatively easy to care for indoors, and can often be placed outside over the summer months. Like other cacti, they do not have high water needs, and are relatively low maintenance. Grow an edible type and you might also be able to achieve edible yields from your interesting houseplants too. How To Grow Prickly Pear Cactus Prickly pear cactus will usually be grown as houseplants or greenhouse plants here in the UK. Though they are relatively easy to care for, providing the right conditions where they are growing is crucial for the best results. Temperature Requirements Prickly pear cacti must be grown in an environment in which temperatures do not fall below 10°C. Ideally, the plant should receive temperatures in summer of at least 18°C. Remember, these are desert plants, which enjoy warmth. While you can place these cacti outdoors in a sunny and sheltered spot in summer, you will certainly need to move them indoors or undercover for the winter months; be sure to make this move in early autumn. If growing indoors year-round, a prickly pear cactus should be moved to a cooler spot (10-13°C) in the winter to encourage flowering. You should keep your prickly pear cactus away from direct heat sources such as radiators or stoves, and also away from draughts and fans which cause temperature fluctuations. Light Requirements Prickly pear cacti should be grown in a bright spot that gets as much light as possible. However, you should shield it from strong, direct sunlight in the summer. A south-facing or west-facing windowsill can be ideal, and the plants should get 4-6 hours of direct sunshine in the summer months. A heated greenhouse with good, all-round light can also work well. Potting Up When potting up a prickly pear cactus, choose a container which is the same size as, or only very slightly bigger than, the rootball. Make sure that the pot allows for free-drainage and has a hole or holes at the base. It is a good idea to use a terracotta pot for cacti and succulents as these will not retain moisture as much as plastic pots. Growing Medium Like other desert cacti, it is important to use a very free-draining growing medium. You can use a multipurpose compost with added John Innes with added extra grit. Better yet, you can use a potting mix that has been specifically formulated for cacti and succulents. Top dress the container with a layer of gravel, pebbles or a decorative cover. Prickly Pear Cactus Care Watering While prickly pears are cacti and obviously, as desert plants, can cope with drought and dry conditions, do not make the mistake of thinking that they do not need to be watered at all. Though these plants can survive long periods without much water, by storing the water in their stems, they will grow better and are more likely to flower (and fruit) when they are provided with adequate water supplies. Between April and September, you should water moderately whenever the growing medium is dry. However, you should limit watering during the dormancy period, when the plant is not growing during autumn and winter. Watering just once a month or so should be sufficient during this time. It is very important to make sure that when you water, the water drains through freely. The cactus should never be allowed to sit with its roots in water – and make sure you do not leave water sitting below the base of the pot. Feeding For best results, you should feed your prickly pear cactus with a specialist cactus fertiliser once every two months from spring through to early autumn. But do not feed your plants over the autumn and winter months. Propagation Once you have perfected the care of your prickly pear cactus, it is relatively easy for you to propagate your existing plant and expand your houseplant collection. You can propagate Opuntia by seed, but by far the easiest way to propagate them is by taking cuttings. Take care when handling your plants as of course the spines and prickles can do quite a lot of damage to your hands if you do not. It is best to wear gloves and also to use tweezers or some tongs when taking cuttings. “I use kitchen tongs with silicone ends to handle all my cacti as they a strong enough to manipulate the plant but soft enough to reduce the chance of damage,” shares Dan. To take cuttings from a prickly pear cactus: Choose a healthy section of stem, at least 10cm long. Cut this off cleanly with a sharp, sterilised knife. Leave this stem section on a windowsill and leave it until the cut surface has healed over. Once the callus has formed, place the cutting upright, around 2cm deep in a 7cm or 9cm pot filled with cactus growing medium. Water well, then place the pot in a sunny, warm location, though ideally not in direct sunlight. Keep an eye on the cutting and water whenever the compost feels dry, and your new cactus plant should have rooted within around 4 weeks. Troubleshooting Problems Many of the issues you see with your prickly pear cactus as you care for it are likely to be related to the conditions in which you are growing it, or problems with watering. Shrivelled leaves – You have likely watered too little. Rotting – Overwatering is usually to blame. Drainage may also be insufficient. Splitting pads – Overwatering or insufficient drainage again. Reduce watering and improve drainage and the splits should heal over. Brown or white patches – This is sunburn – move the plant out of direct sunlight in the hottest part of the summer. You may also see scale insects or mealybugs, but you should be able to carefully wipe these away with water, or an organic insecticide if there is a larger infestation. Just take care around the plant as the small spines can be spiky. References 1. Opuntia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002080-2#children 2. AGM Ornamental Plants. (2021, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf 3. MasterClass. (2022, July 18). How to Cook Nopal: Mexican Ensalada de Nopales Recipe. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/nopales-salad-recipe
Learn more
Aloe Vera Growing Secrets We Learned Interviewing Succulent Expert Les Pearcy
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Aloe? How To Grow Aloe Ongoing Aloe Care Common Problems References You’ve probably heard of Aloe vera. You’ll see it as an ingredient in plenty of creams and lotions, while bottles of Aloe drink are increasingly common on food shop shelves. Whatever your introduction, the plant itself is a timeless classic. In this guide, we have collaborated with succulent expert Les Pearcy, the Chairperson of The Haworthia Society. “As a child, I was fascinated by these weirdly shaped plants and became hooked – literally with some of the hook-spined cacti!” says Les. “My interest has never waned, and I have been very fortunate to see the plants growing in habitat in Southern Africa, USA and in the Canary, Madeira and Mediterranean Islands. “Their ability to survive in such adverse conditions and then thrive in cultivation continues to captivate.” Overview Botanical Name Aloe vera Plant Type Succulent / Houseplant Native Area Africa, Madagascar, Jordan, Arabian Peninsula and Indian Ocean Islands Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small tubular yellow flowers on racemes When To Sow Year-Round (Indoors) Flowering Months July, August In scientific terms, Aloe vera is a succulent belonging to the genus Aloe – containing nearly 600 or so different species.1 Aloe vera is considered the ‘true’ Aloe, the plant most indicative of the genus, because it remains the most visually iconic, and is the source from which the vast majority of commercially used Aloe is obtained. Originally hailing from the Hajar Mountains in Northern Oman, Aloe vera now grows enthusiastically all over the world.2 Despite conditions being quite different in the UK from those the Aloe is accustomed to, the plant has become commonplace here for myriad reasons, as highlighted earlier. Why Grow Aloe? Firstly, it’s an attractive and striking plant. The ridged green stalks jut proudly outward from the soil, held rigid by the gel inside. White blemishes on each stalk break up the dominant bright green colouration, adding visual interest and texture. In full sunlight, the plant has an inarguable vivacity. Secondly, Aloe vera is fairly easy to grow and look after. This may not be a priority for all gardeners, especially those more versed in the art who may deliberately seek out plants that provide a bit of a challenge; but for amateur gardeners and casual interior designers who just want to incorporate a little bit of green, A. vera represents the perfect opportunity. How To Grow Aloe Potting Mix As succulents, A. vera prefers a soil mix designed to encourage good drainage. “They are best grown in a well-draining compost,” says Les. “There are lots of different suggestions for the make-up of the soil, but a standard compost with the addition of sand, grit or perlite will do.” Avoid regular gardening soil and look for something with ingredients like sand, grit, lava rock, or similar. While some guides recommend adding a layer of gravel or similar to the bottom of pots to further encourage drainage, this isn’t required for A. vera, especially if you’re using the right soil. Avoiding this layer gives the roots more space to take hold, and should lead to a healthier plant. A. vera is most frequently grown from cuttings of a mature plant. To grow, fill a container just over halfway with soil, then place the cutting in the soil and add more, making sure the cutting is firmly held in place. Choosing A Container Choosing the right pot is just as important as the right soil, when it comes to keeping your Aloe healthy. A container conducive to moisture, made of terracotta or similar, is recommended. It’s vital that the container has a drainage hole in the bottom, too, to prevent water pooling there (top tip: place some porous mesh between the hole and the soil to allow water out while preventing soil from escaping and making a mess). Choose a pot that’s wider than it is deep in order to give your Aloe space to grow. Preferred Sunlight Also bear in mind that this is a plant built to thrive in hot, dry places. While they’ve spread around the world, the natural conditions favoured by this plant involve a lot of heat and sunlight, and the more faithfully you can recreate this in your home, the better your Aloe vera will grow. “Most Aloes are relatively easy to grow and rely on good light conditions, so a bright sunny windowsill is ideal,” says Les. Choose a spot with a lot of sunlight but where the plant isn’t in full sun all day. The corner of a room or a window sill that doesn’t get full exposure are two good examples. A room temperature of between 15-25°C is typically ideal for your Aloe. Ongoing Aloe Care Fertilising You don’t need to fertilise A. vera much, or even at all. If you decide to do so, use a houseplant formula weakened to about half strength by mixing with regular soil. Add a small amount around the base of your plant every few weeks, during spring and summer. Fertilise a maximum of one time per month. Pruning A. vera plants don’t need much pruning, as a rule. The main reason for cutting your Aloe is to clean up unhealthy sections, or to get at the gel inside. If you’re wondering how to cut an A. vera plant without killing it, simply trim the section off with sharp scissors or trimmers. When trimming dried brown sections from the end of a stalk, just cut the affected section. To get the gel inside, it’s best to select a thick and mature stalk, then cut at the base. “I always keep an Aloe vera on my kitchen window sill – ideally located for any mishaps when cooking!” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I also harvest a few offsets, or ‘pups’, every year for giving away to friends and family.” Cutting at an angle facilitates better draining and healthier regrowing for the plant. After you’ve cut off the stalk, wash any dirt from the base, then stand upright in a glass to allow the resins to drain out. These aren’t good for human use and can be discarded. Once these have drained, peel the stalk with a vegetable peeler and put it in a blender until it reaches a milky consistency. Common Problems A. vera is fairly sturdy and isn’t prone to many problems. However, there is a particular pest that can cause some problems for this plant, as Les explains: “The main pest encountered is the mealy bug. These appear as white wool-like masses. “Big infestations are dealt with using insecticide sprays, but the odd insect can be easily removed by using methylated spirits applied with a small paintbrush.” Here we outline a few other issues you may encounter, and how to resolve them – Root / Leaf Rot The biggest risk with A. vera is rot, whether at root or leaf level. The primary cause of such rot is overwatering: a plant that cannot drain properly will sit in moisture, and this creates an environment that facilitates the growth of fungus that leads to rotting. To avoid rot, water infrequently and only when required. Ensure your plant is in well-draining soil, with a hole at the bottom of each container, and in plenty of sunlight. Watering the roots directly, rather than pouring water onto the whole plant, will ensure that leaves and stalks stay as dry as possible, further mitigating the risk. Root-Bound Plants Any plant in a container will eventually become root-bound. This occurs when the root system becomes so dense that the plant can no longer get enough nutrition from the soil. Brown, wilting sections are indicative of root rot – if you suspect this problem, you’ll need to repot your A. vera into a bigger pot. Gently tease it out of the current pot, taking care not to disrupt or damage the roots, then re-pot, taking care to choose a bigger container! Hopefully, you’re enthused and prepared to get an A. vera plant established and thriving in your home. References 1. Aloe L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 4, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30106039-2#children 2. Aloe vera. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:530017-1
Learn more
18 Striking Hanging Succulent Plants For The Home
IN THIS GUIDE Tolerant Of Neglect 1) Donkey’s Tail 2) Ruby Necklace 3) String Of Pearls 4) String Of Dolphins 5) String Of Hearts 6) String Of Nickels 7) String Of Bananas 8) Flowering Kalanchoe 9) Snake Plant 10) Hoya Plant 11) Christmas Cactus 12) Medusa Head 13) Trailing Jade 14) Mistletoe Cactus 15) String Of Turtles 16) Fishbone Cactus 17) Hanging Cactus 18) Mother Of Thousands Low maintenance but high on aesthetic impact, succulents are the perfect houseplant to hang in your home. Do you want to brighten up your homestead with a splash of greenery, but lack the space to do it? If your floors, coffee tables and windowsills are already at capacity, why not look up? Your ceiling offers a great opportunity to maximise the space and introduce some more foliage into your household, all at the same time. Tolerant Of Neglect There are plenty of trailing plants that you can bring into the home in a hanging basket, but succulents make one of the best options out there. That’s due to the fact that they’re incredibly robust and can bounce back even after a prolonged period without water, making them ideal for forgetful gardeners. They’re also accustomed to the warmer temperatures brought about by central heating, so they’re well-suited to pretty much any room in the house. Some humid-loving varieties will even thrive in the bathroom! If you’re interested in bringing more succulents into your home but aren’t sure where to start, this handy collection of suggestions will point you in the right direction. 1) Donkey’s Tail BOTANICAL NAME: Sedum morganianum LENGTH: Up to 1.2M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED It’s not difficult to see why this trailing succulent has earned the moniker of Donkey’s tail. The fleshy stems will hang over the edges of your hanging basket, with clusters of pastel green leaves clumping together in a form that resembles the pleat of a rope – or that of an ass’s posterior. If you’re lucky, the plant will produce small, star-shaped flowers of a pale red come summertime. Like most succulents, Donkey’s tail requires a mere modicum of care. Simply place it in a spot that receives decent amounts of light and water it when the soil loses its moisture in the warmer months, cutting back on irrigation in winter. Be sure to never let it dry out completely, however, and keep away from humid settings such as bathrooms and kitchens. Reassess its size every couple of years and repot in a bigger container if necessary. “Sedum morganianum makes an eye-catching trailing succulent,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It is easy to propagate too. You can cut stems and re-root or even remove the succulent leaves and leave them on a tray of horticultural grit. After a couple of weeks, they will start to root.” 2) Ruby Necklace BOTANICAL NAME: Crassothonna capensis LENGTH: Up to 0.4M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Originally hailing from South Africa, Ruby necklace offers its owners a mesmerising display of different colours. The stems themselves are perhaps its most eye-catching aspect on first glance and are what give the plant its name, being a full ruby red or purple hue. Though the leaves are typically a deep green, prolonged exposure to the sun will encourage them to take on the characteristics of the stems, leading to a real ruby necklace display! And in summer, the daisy-like yellow flowers offer the perfect contrast to the purplish backdrop behind. Unlike many of the other options on this list, Ruby necklace does well even under the direct gaze of the sun and, as mentioned above, will reward you with a colourful transformation if it is placed in such a spot. All it really requires to thrive is well-drained soil and a pot with drainage holes to ensure it doesn’t become waterlogged and suffer from root rot. 3) String Of Pearls BOTANICAL NAME: Senecio rowleyanus LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: ANY WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT String of pearls have become a hugely popular hit on social media in recent years and it’s not hard to see why. Their trailing, tendril-like stems – which can reach up to almost a metre in length – are dotted with small, spherical leaves that resemble pearls and retain water. This latter fact means that String of pearls is drought-resistant and actually prefers less moisture, so wait until the soil completely dries out before watering it. It enjoys bright spots but doesn’t do so well in direct sunlight, although they’re hardy little creatures who will adapt well to most environments. For that reason, they’re easy to propagate, as well; simply replant a cutting in a fresh pot of soil and water it regularly until the roots take hold. 4) String Of Dolphins BOTANICAL NAME: Dendrophorbium peregrinum LENGTH: Up to 0.8M SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT Every bit as photogenic as its pearl-shaped cousin, String of dolphins has that unusual name due to the unusual shape of its leaves. It also boasts trailing stems studded with fleshy leaves, but these have a beautifully crescent-shaped format, with a small protuberance at one side which resembles the fin of a dolphin. They’re also known as String of fishhooks for the same reason, but we know which name we prefer. For the sheer novelty of their appearance, String of dolphins are an excellent complement to an ocean-themed setting, but don’t introduce them into the bathroom, since the humidity will sap their strength. Instead, keep them in a spot which receives some sunlight but not direct exposure, since that may cause the poor little dolphins to burn, while the soil should be allowed to dry out before watering. 5) String Of Hearts BOTANICAL NAME: Ceropegia woodii LENGTH: Up to 4M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Are you noticing a theme develop yet? String of hearts are so named for the romantic shape of their leaves, which dangle from the trailing vines of the plant itself. They’re quick-growing plants and can reward you with an attractive beaded curtain-like effect in next to no time – but be sure to position them in a location with plenty of space below, since their vines have been known to reach up to four metres in length! Like the other succulents mentioned above, String of Hearts do best in bright but indirect sunlight, since too much ultraviolet exposure will singe the foliage. They’re also prone to root rot if their soil is allowed to retain moisture too much, so ensure they’re placed in a pot with good soil drainage and a hole at the bottom. 6) String Of Nickels BOTANICAL NAME: Dischidia nummularia LENGTH: Up to 0.5M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED No prizes for guessing that the English name of this trailing succulent was coined by an American! But despite its US moniker, String of nickels is actually native to the southeast Asian tropical rainforest, meaning you can bring a little of that eastern exoticism into your own home by transplanting it to a domestic setting! It doesn’t require much water but does thrive in humidity and heat, so it’s an ideal choice for a bathroom or kitchen, since those rooms best replicate the conditions found in the rainforest. Another interesting fact about String of nickels is that it’s an epiphyte plant, which means that it will willingly grow on top of other plants and organisms. Put simply, it doesn’t care much for personal space or have any idea of what boundaries are socially acceptable! This means that you might need to be proactive when it comes to paring back and pruning, unless you want your whole home interior to be covered with tiny nickel-shaped leaves. 7) String Of Bananas BOTANICAL NAME: Curio radicans LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Native to South Africa, this stunning little succulent is the last in our “String of…” series. As you might have guessed, it’s named for the banana-like leaves which dangle from its thick, lengthy stems. Though not quite as prolific as String of hearts, the vines of String of bananas can reach a metre in length, so ensure there is plenty of room for them to grow and develop from your hanging basket. String of bananas will do equally well indoors as they will al fresco, as long as they’re not placed in direct sunlight and their soil isn’t allowed to become waterlogged. They don’t like the cold, however, so if you are hanging them outdoors, you’ll likely need to bring them inside when the mercury begins to drop. 8) Flowering Kalanchoe BOTANICAL NAME: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana LENGTH: Up to 0.5M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Unlike all previous entrants on this list, Flowering kalanchoe is not a trailing succulent, but a more compact and self-contained alternative. However, you shouldn’t be put off by that fact, since its stunning foliage and flower blooms are sure to catch the eye. There are many different types of the species, which are generally divided by colour rather than cultivar. Choose from red, yellow, orange, pink, lilac, salmon, white or green flowering types to tailor the plant to the décor already in place in your home. The thick flesh on the plant’s leaves allows it to retain moisture, so weekly watering is sufficient to give Flowering kalanchoe all the encouragement it needs. The species is also a short-day plant, which means that buds will appear when it enjoys fewer than 12 hours of light. Because of that fact, it’s possible to manipulate the plant’s exposure to light and trick it into thinking that it’s winter all year round, thus ensuring floral displays whatever the month. 9) Snake Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Dracaena trifasciata LENGTH: Up to 3M SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Who doesn’t love a snake plant? These drought- and shade-resistant plants can literally go weeks without water or light without losing their lustre, while their stiff, pointed leaves with unusual patterns are reminiscent of the scales on a snake’s back. Like the Flowering kalanchoe mentioned above, Snake plants aren’t trailing species, but their upright foliage can look equally effective hanging from the ceiling as it does sprouting from the floor. Just remember that the plants can grow up to a maximum of three metres in height, so you may need to transplant them into a larger pot with regularity. They are, however, very easy to divide and propagate in other pots. Although they’re more than a match for temporary darkness, they’ll thrive best and their leaves will look the most impressive when granted prolonged exposure to medium or bright levels of light. 10) Hoya Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Hoya carnosa LENGTH: Up to 1.5M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Rather than trail, hoya plants are climbers. This means that depending upon where you place the hanging basket, you can encourage quite stunning arrangements in and around your own. Besides its lengthy vines, hoyas are well known for their beautiful blossoms. The plant produces clusters of star-shaped flowers in white, pink and other soft tones, which all together form a globe. In full bloom, it’s quite a breath-taking sight. Hoyas are native to Australia, Indonesia, India, China and several other parts of Asia. That means they need both warmth and brightness, but they don’t cope well in direct sunlight, so choose your spot carefully. Hoya carnosa is one of the most commonly found types of the species, but plenty of others are available. If you’d like a similar effect but without the climbing aspect, Hoya bella is a smaller and more compact alternative that works well in hanging baskets. 11) Christmas Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Schlumbergera bridgesii LENGTH: Up to 0.25M SUNLIGHT: ANY WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT While all cacti are succulents, not all succulents are cacti! This festive specimen is ideal for hanging around your home as the Yuletide season approaches, since its brilliant flowers blossom in the winter months. However, it’s just as attractive the rest of the year, too, with its chunky segmented stems that will trail over the edge of your basket. Best of all, it’s not as spiky as some of its other cacti brethren, so you can put away the gloves when handling it. Although the Christmas cactus can cope in low-level light, it will produce better and more regular blooms in brighter locations. It also likes a little more water than many other cacti, so ensure the top of the soil is kept moist (but not soaking wet). To propagate, simply cut out a Y-shaped fragment from the extremity of its stems and re-plant up to a quarter of its height in fresh soil. 12) Medusa Head BOTANICAL NAME: Euphorbia caput-medusae LENGTH: Up to 0.9M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN WATERING: REGULAR As the name suggests, this exotic succulent bears a striking resemblance to a seething den of snakes, much like those found on the head of Greek mythological creature Medusa. When hanging from the ceiling, the head-height position of Medusa head makes it all the more impactful. They’re a thirstier type of succulent than most of their counterparts, so be sure to water them regularly. They also need six hours of sun per day to reach their full potential, but they can become stressed if they receive too much UV light. However, as a succulent, they’re still pretty resilient if either light or water is taken away from them for a few days and should bounce back well. 13) Trailing Jade BOTANICAL NAME: Peperomia rotundifolia LENGTH: Up to 0.3M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT 14) Mistletoe Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Rhipsalis heteroclada LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT 15) String Of Turtles BOTANICAL NAME: Peperomia prostrata LENGTH: Up to 0.3M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED 16) Fishbone Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Disocactus anguliger LENGTH: Up to 0.3M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT 17) Hanging Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Lepismium bolivianum LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT 18) Mother Of Thousands BOTANICAL NAME: Kalanchoe daigremontiana LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT
Learn more
How To Grow Sempervivum ‘Houseleeks’ With Tips From Nursery Grower Becky Scott
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Sempervivum Ongoing Sempervivum Care Common Problems References As you might imagine, Sempervivum ‘Houseleek’ has nothing to do with leeks, the vegetables you sometimes use for cooking. That leek, scientific name Allium porrum, is from the genus of flowering plants that includes shallots, chives, leeks, garlic, onion, and all the other delicious aromatics that are familiar dinner ingredients. This ‘leek’ on the other hand, is a succulent – one of the colourful, trendy, and easy-to-care-for plants that you see in beautiful little displays like the one below. In this guide, we’ve worked with Becky Scott, Co-Owner of the plant nursery Sempervivums By Post. “Sempervivums are great outdoor plants and easy to look after,” says Becky. “You can grow them in pots, containers, or in the ground in a rockery. The choice of different colours and forms is tremendous.” If you’re looking for succulents to grow in your home, Sempervivum should be your first port of call. These stylish and undemanding plants bring flair to even the most mundane living spaces. You may also see this plant referred to as ‘Hens and Chickens’. “I love sempervivums and mainly use them as houseplants, but I do put them outside during the summer and they enjoy it,” says Tamsin Westhorpe, a professional Gardener. “They are great value plants and can be kept in tiny pots.” Overview Botanical Name Sempervivum Common Name(s) Houseleek, Hens and Chickens Plant Type Succulent Native Area Europe, North Africa, Middle East Hardiness Rating Mostly H5 – H7 Foliage Evergreen, fleshy leaved rosettes Flowers Some pink or pale yellow flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months July, August These plants are evergreen succulents whose name hints at their perennial nature – ‘Sempervivum’ means ‘always alive’ in Latin.1 Its interesting visual characteristics are immediately inviting, and whether you decide to grow Sempervivum outdoors or in a container, you’re guaranteed a good show. Common Varieties There are a number of naturally-occurring species and thousands of garden varieties in this family, covering a full rainbow of colour. There’s no space to introduce all the varieties here, so we’ve chosen a handful that have received the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit.2 S. guillaumes This variety of Sempervivum is a perfect demonstration of the striking form and colour palette you can expect from the plant. Although colours may vary, they’ll almost always be as vibrant and engaging as the Guillaumes. The plant is, by nature, mat-forming – that means it spreads out along the ground in dense mats, propagating through ‘offsets’ – nearly-grown plant babies that erupt into growth when they touch ground. Each spiky cluster is called a ‘rosette’, and the thick, sometimes waxy leaves hold the plant’s water supply; Guillaumes’ rosettes grow about 2cm in diameter. Like all Sempervivum, Guillaumes are naturally hardy thanks to their rugged North African, Middle Eastern, and Balkan heritage. S. tectorum The common houseleek, as this variety is known, has tons of nicknames including ‘Homewort’, ‘Imbroge’, ‘Poor Jan’s Leaf’, ‘Welcome-Home-Husband-However-Drunk-You-Be’ and more. None of the names give much of a clue about the plant, though. And none describe its green fading gracefully into deep red, or the attractive clusters of lightly-spiked leaves – nor the complex colour palette that the plant provides year-round. This is a great little Sempervivum that will make a great impression on any gardener. It’s just as unfussy as other varieties, but grows slightly larger in size – up to about 10cm. S. arachnoideum The boffins amongst you may recognise the ‘arachno’ in this variety’s name as being indicative of spiders. Don’t worry, though: It’s not named for a tendency to attract these eight-legged critters into your house. Rather, this houseleek variety is named after its striking cobwebbish aesthetic. The stringy white hairs at the tip of each head form a web around the spiky leaves, making an unusual and eye-catching visual contribution to any plant container. Individual rosettes grow to about 3cm across, and like all Sempervivums, this variety is mat-forming. Expect to see dashes of red year-round, and a bit of pink. How To Grow Sempervivum This variety of plant likes full sun, and well-drained soil. It’s relatively easy to care for in the UK because of its origins in demanding environments. With Sempervivum, the one thing you want to look out for is overly wet winters. “If you don’t provide sempervivums with a mix of soil and grit, to provide good drainage, the roots can rot in the winter wet,” explains Becky. S. charadzeae Although this plant can handle a lot, it’ll need a hand being sheltered from the icy blasts we’re prone to get later in the year. You can either cover the plant or bring it inside for a winter container holiday. Growing From Seed You can grow Sempervivum from seed. To do so, plant them in pots at least 5cm in diameter, push the seed gently below the surface, then leave them to germinate somewhere well-lit and at least 21°C for up to 5 weeks. If all goes well, you’ll see some germination. In this case, just leave the plant to grow for a while, then move onto the next section. If all doesn’t go well, which sadly is more likely with Sempervivum from seed, whack the pots in the fridge for a couple of weeks, then take them out and put them back in the well-lit warm spot – hopefully this time around you’ll see germination. Due to how fiddly and unpredictable this process can be, a lot of people prefer to grow Sempervivum from offsets. This is essentially cloning the parent plant, and is a much more reliable way to grow houseleek. “Our advice is don’t grow sempervivums from seed,” says Becky. “Named varieties are much, much better. They’ve been professionally selected from huge batches of plants grown from seed, usually with specifically chosen parents to give the best chance possible of producing something different.” “If you’re lucky, one in a thousand plants you grow from seed might be good enough – with the rest below standard.” Planting Sempervivum This plant likes a well-drained soil, as we’ve said. Sandy or loamy is best. “We suggest a mix of John Innes and horticultural grit,” recommends Becky. It’s not a fussy plant, and will grow well in solitary pots, shared containers, flowerbeds, and even gravelly rock gardens. “It’s best to grow sempervivums on their own. Select the types you like the look of and mix them up. “Don’t plant them with other outdoor succulents, such as sedums, because the latter will spread too fast and take over.” Planting Sempervivums is as simple as filling a container with the right type of soil, placing the plant in the soil, then ensuring the roots are covered. “Sempervivums spread by offsets, but once a rosette flowers, it will die, which can leave gaps in the planting,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Just replant some of the offsets to fill the gaps left.” You’ll want to compact the earth as well to give the plant a secure footing. Ongoing Sempervivum Care Light Let there be light! Sempervivums love the sunlight, and will do better the more they’re exposed to it. If you’re planting Sempervivums in your garden, give them pride of place in the brightest spot. They’ll catch the eye of any visitors, and lend a tremendous visual element to your garden’s aesthetic. Watering This plant doesn’t typically need much water. For the most part, occasional rain should cover your Sempervivum watering needs, but if you’re going through a drought, a light sprinkle every once in a while won’t go amiss. Check the soil moisture with your finger before watering – a good couple of inches of soil should be mostly dry before you need to add more water. Common Problems There are a few pests that enjoy dining out on Sempervivum. Sempervivum Leaf Miner This hoverfly larva literally mines the leaves of a Sempervivum plant, to get at the good stuff inside. You’ll see limp, discoloured leaves, and if you examine more closely, you’ll find small maggots. To control leaf miner larvae, just pick off and dispose of them when you find them. Slugs & Snails Sadly your Sempervivum will find no reprieve from these common garden pests. Slugs and snails will treat themselves to a little nibble here and a little nibble there, eventually causing massive damage if left unchecked. To control against slugs and snails, you can make a border of sharded glass, use poisons, or simply remove them manually. References 1. Sempervivum definition and meaning | Collins English Dictionary. (2023). In Collins Dictionaries. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/sempervivum 2. Ornamental AGM Plants. (2021b, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf
Learn more
Succulent Growers On Their 6 Step Propagation Routine: 'Most Grow From Leaf Pullings'
IN THIS GUIDE How Succulents Are Propagated How To Propagate Succulents 1) Allowing Cuttings / Offsets To Form A Callus 2) Choose A Suitable Potting Mix 3) Place Cuttings / Offsets In Their New Containers 4) Wait For New Root Systems To Form 5) Pot Up Your New Plants 6) Place Plants In Their Final Growing Positions Learning how to propagate succulents at home means reducing the number of succulents you need to buy. Making new plants from your existing ones will save you money, growing your collection for free. It can also help you to avoid bringing extra plastic pots or packaging into your home. The more you can take a DIY approach and do things yourself at home, the closer you can move to a truly sustainable, zero-waste lifestyle. In this guide, we will take you step-by-step through the simple process involved in propagating succulents. How Succulents Are Propagated Most succulent plants are propagated through cuttings or through offsets. The type of cutting that is taken varies depending on which succulents you are dealing with. Sometimes leaf cuttings are taken, and sometimes stem cuttings – the particular plants you select will determine which of these you will take. Often, taking a succulent cutting will simply involve taking a clean and well-sharpened blade and snipping off some of the fleshy leaves, perhaps along with a portion of stem. While you may well be able to take more than one cutting at one time from a mature plant, it is best to make sure you do not take too many portions of the plant at one time, as this may weaken or put too much stress on the original. “Most succulents grow from leaf pullings,” says Darren, from Pugh’s Cacti, a specialist nursery. Sometimes, things are even simpler and smaller offsets will naturally develop close to the mature plant. This is true, for example, for succulents which form rosettes, like aloe and echeveria. In these cases, propagation is simply a matter of carefully cutting these away from the mature plant. “Succulents are among the easiest group of plants to propagate,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Because they are adapted to handle dry conditions, they are less prone to drying out than many cuttings. In fact, the risk to cuttings is far more from overwatering.” Houseleek offsets How To Propagate Succulents Though propagating most succulents really could not be easier, there are a few steps to take to make sure that your cuttings or offsets root successfully. So let’s take a look at the simple process, step by step – 1) Allowing Cuttings / Offsets To Form A Callus “Cacti and succulents will produce offshoots,” explains Darren. “These can be detached from the main plant easily but will need to be dried for at least 7 days first.” As Darren explains, as soon as you have cut and gathered your leaf/stem cuttings or little offsets, you cannot just plonk these into soil or a growing medium right away. Instead, you have to wait for the cut section of the succulent sections to form a callus. In other words, you need to wait for it to harden or dry and scab over. “Propagation of cacti and succulents is generally simple,” explains Peter Bint, the Society Secretary of the British Cactus and Succulent Society. “When you remove a cutting from a plant it is essential to allow the cut surface to heal and harden. This is done by placing the cutting in a dry airy place for about a week.” A callus over the wound protects it from rot or disease – it is important to let the hardened callus form before your succulent cuttings are exposed to water or dampness. Place your cuttings on a sunny windowsill or another light and dry place for a week or so before you proceed to the next step in the process. “The cut section needs to callus over and dry for a minimum of 7 days to allow the cut to fully dry and prevent mould,” says Darren. “Most cacti and succulents are happy to sit this way for some time. In the nursery, we have had cuttings sit this way for 12 months and still grow once potted. “Cuttings should be taken in summer to allow the cut to heal quickly as mould can develop. “If this happens, recut and allow it to dry again. Dipping the cut end in cinnamon can help prevent mould from forming.” 2) Choose A Suitable Potting Mix It is important to choose a potting mix specifically designed for succulents, with good drainage. “Prepare the compost you intend to root the plant into,” says Peter. “This should be reasonably sandy and coarse. Do not use a peat mixture.” The type of container you choose is also important, as that can determine how successfully water will escape and how warm it will be. 3) Place Cuttings / Offsets In Their New Containers “Place the soil in the pots you intend to use, then allow the soil to soak up so water until it is moist,” explains Peter. “After, you can put your cuttings into this mix.” As soon as your succulent cuttings have developed their callus, you can next place them on top of a suitable potting mix in your chosen pots or containers. Place these in a suitable location. Make sure you take into account the temperature, light and other environmental needs of the particular succulents you have chosen to propagate. “Place your succulent in a light place that is shaded from direct sunlight,” says Peter. “Make sure the soil is kept slightly moist so that new roots have the ability to take in moisture.” 4) Wait For New Root Systems To Form After you have placed your new succulents into the top of your containers, on the suitable potting mix you have chosen for them, you should water a little, around once a week (depending on variety) and wait patiently for little roots to develop. The length of time that it will take for succulent cuttings to root will depend at least in part on which variety of succulent you are propagating, as Peter shares: “Rooting can be anything from a couple of weeks to six months according to the species. “Succulents are usually quicker to root than cacti.” With some cuttings, you will know that they have rooted successfully when you pull very gently on the cutting and it does not come away but is held in the growing medium to a degree. Sometime later, you may see new leaves forming on the cuttings, and the withering of the original leaf. Once the original leaf has withered, you can remove it. 5) Pot Up Your New Plants Once your succulent cutting has formed some roots, you can pot up each of your new plants. Be sure to place each plant into a pot or container filled with the same medium in which it was previously grown, as this will lessen any type of transplantation shock and reduce the amount of stress on your plants. Watering and environmental needs will of course vary depending on which succulents you are growing. However, as a general rule of thumb, succulents in pots should be placed somewhere where they receive indirect but relatively bright light which is received for at least six hours each day. And should be watered weekly, taking care to be light-handed and consistent. 6) Place Plants In Their Final Growing Positions After they have been left to establish in their new pots or containers for a few weeks, your succulents should be rooted and growing strong. At this point, you can consider placing them in their final growing location – whether in larger containers, inside your home or outside, in an undercover growing area such as a greenhouse or polytunnel, or in garden beds or borders. “Many succulents can happily be grown outdoors when frosts have finished,” Peter shares. “They will need some protection from excessive rain and wind. They need to return to an indoor environment by mid-September. “Succulents are much easier to grow in a greenhouse or conservatory than on a windowsill. They can also be grown on the balcony of a flat in the warmer months.” Slightly different processes are followed (and different cuttings taken) for different succulents. But as you can see from the above, it is rather easy and straightforward to make new succulents from those you have already grown. So as soon as you have purchased your first few succulents, you can easily grow your collection over time.
Learn more
These Succulent Nurseries And Societies Have Shared Their 16 Favourite Types To Grow
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties About Our List 1) Sedums 2) Sempervivums 3) Senecio 4) Aeonium 5) Echeveria 6) Aloe 7) Agave 8) Crassula 9) Pachyphytum 10) Gasteria 11) Faucaria 12) Graptopetalum 13) Graptoveria 14) Haworthia 15) Lithops 16) Kalanchoe References Succulents might not be native to the UK, but they can still often be great choices for British homes and gardens. Succulents are simply plants that have thickened leaves where water is stored – a natural adaptation that helps these plants survive in dry, arid conditions. In this guide, we’ve collaborated with FIVE expert succulent growers to discover some of their favourite varieties, including: Daniel Jackson – Owner of the plant nursery Ottershaw Cacti. Tom Adkin & Giulia Consolandi – Co-Owners of Piccolo Plant Nursery. Peter Bint – Society Secretary for The British Cactus & Succulent Society. Niamh Mullally – Owner of Southwold Succulent Co. Richard M. Wiedhopf – President of the Tucson Cactus And Succulent Society. Since they have good tolerance to drought, they can cope with under-watering very well. So they can be a great choice for gardeners with less time on their hands, or those who are rather forgetful when it comes to tending their plants. Expert-Chosen Varieties “It is hard to choose, but I do love big echeverias for their beautiful flowers and all aeoniums for their colour and shape,” Daniel from Ottershaw Cacti says. “I like to collect seeds from these plants and cultivate my own pure and hybrid plants. I have managed to successfully cross a few aeoniums to create 6 of my own Hybrids to date. Aeonium arboreum “We entered our own Aeonium ‘Jubilee’ into the RHS Plant of the year competition at the Chelsea Flower Show last year and were finalists! “The Queen even bought a few for her own garden in Sandringham. It was a real highlight and a proud moment for us.” Other Aeonium lovers, Tom Adkin and Giulia Consolandi discuss why they love this succulent: “Anything in the aeonium family is our favourite, as these plants have such a wide variety of colour, hybrids and variety of structure that make them fantastic plants. “They can also be outside for most of the year, but will need winter protection depending on where you are. “We simply put them in our tunnels over winter, keep them dry and fleece them when frost or very low temperatures are due.” Peter Bint, Society Secretary from the British Cactus and Succulent Society, finds it hard to pick a favourite. “Favourite plants are a movable feast and can vary month by month,” he shares. Aloe maculata “Some people like to grow small-growing plants, whilst others like the challenge of finding plants they can grow permanently in their garden. Then, some people discover African succulents and that’s it for them. “There are caudiciform plants that provide a challenge. Exposing their tuberous roots exposes a completely different beauty. Some grow in spring and summer, but there are some, like Dioscuri, that you cannot be sure when they will be growing. “I’ve had specimens that start to grow in August and don’t stop till the following April. Others might wait til October to start.” So, what is Peter’s current favourite succulent? Mesembryanthemum cordifolium “My present joy is the Aizoaceae family, as it is truly fascinating,” shares Peter. Niamh Mullally is the Owner of Southwold Succulent Co and has been growing succulents for over 20 years. “One of my favourites is Delosperma ‘Fire Wonder’, which is from the Wheels of Wonder series,” Niamh shares. Delosperma ‘Fire Wonder’ “This succulent originates from Japan and is used there on green roofs for the maximum flowering period. It is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance. “Masses of deep orange daisies from May to the first frosts are a sight to behold and keep our bees fed all summer long.” From the Tucson Cactus And Succulent Society, Richard Wiedhopf is less conclusive about his favourite type of succulent: “I’ve never met a succulent plant I didn’t like. Echeveria “My favourite succulents are the ones that grow to maturity and flower. It is the only real proof of success and gives me a feeling of real accomplishment.” If, like Richard, you’re still unsure what your favourite might be, don’t worry – we have a longer list of options for you below. About Our List First of all, the list below is a list of only succulents, and we have chosen (to narrow things down) not to include cacti and bromeliads. These are sometimes classified as succulents – but some horticultural experts prefer to place them in different categories. If you are looking for low-maintenance plants, these other categories could also be excellent plants to consider. One other thing to mention is that only some of the plants in the list below will be suitable for growing outdoors in the UK. When choosing a succulent, be sure to take into account whether you will be growing indoors or out, and the needs of the particular plant you are considering. Remember, while succulents all share certain characteristics (especially drought tolerance) they come from often very different areas, and their other requirements can differ considerably. Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’ Discovering the characteristics of climate and terrain within a succulent’s typical native range can help you work out what it will need in terms of environmental conditions. We’ve listed the succulent options under various genus’ of succulent plants, but there are several great options within some of these categories. Without further ado then, let’s take a look at some of the succulents you could grow: 1) Sedums GENUS SIZE: ~600 Species HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICALLY GROWN: OUTDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Sedums are common succulents, used both as houseplants and for outdoor gardens in the UK. There are a huge range of sedums to choose from, all of which can be great for edging a dry bed or border, using in a rock garden or wall, or in the creation of a drought-tolerant green roof. Consider, for example: S. dasyphyllum S. album S. acre S. reflexum One other succulent not included on this list but also worth thinking about is purslane. Purslane Purslane is often viewed as a common weed, but this is a succulent rather similar to sedums, with similar benefits. What you might not know is that purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is also an edible plant.1 So it is well worthwhile giving this ‘weed’ some space in your garden. 2) Sempervivums GENUS SIZE: ~30 Species HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS OR OUTDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT INDOORS; NOT REQUIRED OUTDOORS Like sedums, there is a wide range of sempervivums that can be grown outdoors in suitable conditions. These are another type of succulent which are excellent for the creation of low-maintenance planting schemes, bed edging or green roofs. 3) Senecio GENUS SIZE: ~1,400 Species HARDINESS RATING: TYPICALLY H4-H5 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS OR OUTDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT INDOORS; NOT REQUIRED OUTDOORS Senecio rowleyanus (commonly known as the ‘String of Beads’ plant), is a well-known houseplant and a great houseplant succulent to consider here in the UK. Its strings of modified succulent leaves really do look like strings of green beads, and these plants look especially good in hanging containers which show the trailing stems off to full advantage. Other Senecios can also make good houseplants – such as, for example, S. serpens and S. radicans. S. serpens S. radicans 4) Aeonium GENUS SIZE: ~40 Species HARDINESS RATING: H1C TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Aeoniums can be show-off succulents with a range of interesting colours and forms.2 One dramatic option is Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ which is a shrubby plant with rosettes of shiny succulent leaves that are lime green in the middle and redding, purplish, almost black to the outer sides. A. ‘Zwartkop’ You can grow it in a pot or a sunny border outside in summer. Aeonium arboreum is another attractive option which is also known as the ‘Irish Rose’. A. arboreum 5) Echeveria GENUS SIZE: ~150 Species HARDINESS RATING: TYPICALLY H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Echeveria elegans (pictured above) is just one example of an excellent succulent within this group. Most commonly, this plant, which is also called ‘Mexican snowball’ is grown as a houseplant. It can also be used in summer bedding displays before it is brought indoors over the winter months. These attractive succulents come in a wide variety – they flower in summer but are mostly known for their amazing foliage.3 Echeveria ‘Blue Frills’ is one very attractive cultivar to consider. E. ‘Blue Frills’ 6) Aloe GENUS SIZE: ~400-600 Species HARDINESS RATING: VARIES TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS OR OUTDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: Typically Full Sun; Some Will Burn (Turn Red) In Direct Sun WATERING: INFREQUENT A wide range of Aloes can work very well for UK growers, but they do need to be kept frost-free over the winter months. One of the most common (and useful) options is Aloe vera. It is most commonly grown as a houseplant but can also potentially be kept in a polytunnel or greenhouse. Aloe vera is a useful houseplant to grow because it can provide a yield of gel for multiple purposes.4 Other aloes to grow include Aloe rauhii and Aloe aristata. A. rauhii A. aristata The latter is also potentially suitable for growing outdoors as it is a much hardier type. 7) Agave GENUS SIZE: ~200 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Though it is native to parts of the South-Western US and Mexico, Agave americana can be a good choice for a southern UK garden. As long as it is in a relatively low-rainfall area, it can potentially be grown outdoors in well-draining soil all year round. In most parts of the UK, however, this plant is better for indoors growing – at least over the winter months. 8) Crassula Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’ GENUS SIZE: ~200 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE WATERING: INFREQUENT The ‘Jade Tree’, Crassula ovata is another great choice, though really only as a houseplant. This plant is also sometimes known as ‘friendship tree’, ‘money plant’ or lucky plant’. It is one of the few succulents that can cope with a little shade, so can cope inside a room with a little less bright light. Two interesting cultivars are ‘Gollum’ with its thin, tubular leaves, and ‘Hobbit’ which has larger leaves with a less tubular appearance. C. ovata ‘Hobbit’ Another interesting Crassula is C. marnieriana which is another great houseplant. C. marnieriana It has long graceful stems that look kind of like caterpillars, and ivory-coloured flowers. 9) Pachyphytum GENUS SIZE: ~30 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE WATERING: INFREQUENT Pachyphytum is a fleshy succulent with large chalk-dusted leaves that look a little like stones. This is another good succulent to grow as a houseplant in homes that are a little less bright and sunny, as it can cope with partial to full shade. 10) Gasteria GENUS SIZE: ~130 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE WATERING: RARELY Gasteria batesiana is another interesting succulent to consider growing indoors. It has rough, pointy succulent leaves that grow close together forming dense clumps of offsets. If you have one of these plants, it is easy to propagate to make more. 11) Faucaria GENUS SIZE: ~30 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Faucaria tigrina, known as ‘Tiger’s Jaw’ has small green leaves with spikes along the edges that make them look, as the name suggests, like tiny tiger’s jaws. When well cared for they can also produce yellow flowers in the autumn. 12) Graptopetalum GENUS SIZE: ~25 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT The stunning Graptopetalum superbum has amazing panicles of flowers as well as attractive purple, frosted foliage. This subspecies is hardy to -3°C, so it can be grown outdoors all year round in milder regions. 13) Graptoveria GENUS SIZE: ~20 Species HARDINESS RATING: H4 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Some Graptopetalum have been bred with echeverias to produce hybrid plants known as Graptoverias. ‘Fred Ives’ has dense purple and pinkish-tinged leaves and when left out in the sun, the leaves can change colour and turn a range of different shades. G. ‘Fred Ives’ Yellow flowers sometimes bloom in the summer months. 14) Haworthia GENUS SIZE: ~40 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS / OUTDOORS IN SUMMER PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL LIGHT; AVOID DIRECT SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT There are a number of Haworthia succulents to consider for houseplants, or for growing in a summer garden in the UK. Haworthia fasciata is one spectacular example within this species to consider. H. fasciata It is a small, half-hardy succulent that is drought tolerant. In the UK, it can be ideal for planting outside during the summer and bringing undercover during the winter months. 15) Lithops GENUS SIZE: ~40 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT The more you learn about succulents, the more you will learn about the weird and wonderful forms in which they come. Lithops (living stones) are perhaps one of the weirdest. Native to the harsh sunny climes of South Africa, these small plants really do look like stones. They need plenty of sun, so put them on a south-facing windowsill and they will slowly grow to form small clusters of colourful pebble-like plants. 16) Kalanchoe GENUS SIZE: ~125 Species HARDINESS RATING: H1B TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE WATERING: INFREQUENT If you are looking for a succulent that offers flowers as well as intriguing foliage then you cannot do better than Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. K. blossfeldiana Flaming Katy can bloom for weeks on end and can have blooms in a wide variety of different hues. There are also plenty of other types of Kalanchoe to consider. These are, as mentioned above, just a small fraction of the many succulents you could consider, especially if you are growing them indoors in the UK. Most are relatively easy to care for and won’t take a lot of time to tend. They can also allow you to experience the wonderful world of exotic plants from around the world in your very own home. If you don’t already grow succulents, now is a good time to start! References 1. Palsdottir, H. (2017, June 16). Purslane – A Tasty “Weed” That is Loaded With Nutrients. Healthline. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/purslane 2. Lachelin, L. (n.d.-a). Aeonium species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/ab/Aeonium 3. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1999d, July 23). Echeveria | Description, Major Species, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Echeveria 4. Chandegara, V., & Kumar Varshney, A. (2012, December). Aloe vera: Development of gel extraction process for Aloe vera leaves. Research Gate. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/274315362_Aloe_vera_Development_of_gel_extraction_process_for_Aloe_vera_leaves
Learn more
