Growing
How You Can Grow Beautiful Canna Lilies As A Spot And Dot Plant In Bedding Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Canna Lilies? Canna Varieties How To Grow Canna Planting Canna Lilies Summer Care References Canna lilies are vibrant perennials that can really brighten up a garden border or container garden. Though tender, they can make beautiful summer bedding plants – the rhizomes can overwinter in milder, more southerly parts of the UK as long as they have a good covering of mulch. They can also be grown in a cool conservatory indoors during the summer months. Even though they are commonly called Canna lilies, Canna are not actually lilies at all – they are actually a family of a number of species in the order Zingiberales.1 They are more closely related to gingers, bananas and arrowroot. Typically, in the UK, we tend to think of cannas as ornamental garden plants – and many cultivars have certainly been developed for their visual appeal, but cannas are also used around the world as an edible source of starch in food production.2 Overview Botanical Name Canna Common Name(s) Canna Lily Plant Type Perennial Hardiness Rating H2 / H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Showy flowers When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months July, August, September, October When To Prune October, November Canna lilies, both ornamental and edible species, are native to tropical and subtropical regions of the new world, from the Southern US to Northern Argentina.3 However, cultivars were mostly developed in temperate climate zones and can be grown throughout temperate zones as long as they get 6-8 hours of sunshine daily in the main growing season, and are protected from winter cold. Canna lilies in various colours Canna lilies have beautiful flowers, usually in red, orange or yellow or some mix of these colours – which is why they have become such popular plants in horticulture around the world. Why Grow Canna Lilies? Most gardeners will grow canna lilies for their ornamental appeal. Their impressive display of blooms that can flower in your garden from June to October (and their large leaves) make these plants firm favourites for many garden schemes. There are also varieties which can be grown for their starchy rhizomes. This could be something to delve into more deeply if you are interested in forest gardening, or edible landscaping. Cannas can also be useful in organic, permaculture gardens for the generation of biomass, which can be used in mulching, composting, and returning nutrients to the soil.4 Interestingly, Cannas are also sometimes used in drawing pollutants for the restoration of wetland environment.5 “Canna lilies have been used widely as a spot and dot plant in bedding schemes for decades,” shares Dan Ori, who has been awarded the Master Horticulturist status by the RHS. “The spot or dot plant is a feature plant used in conjunction with groundwork (bed filling plants) and edging plants (used around the edge of a bed). “I recommend combining Cannas with Begonia semperflorens as the groundwork and an upright pink-flowering Lobelia as an edging plant. “If you’re growing in a large container or raised bed, I recommend switching the Lobelia to a training pink cultivar.” Canna Varieties Red Canna Lilies If growing canna for ornamental reasons, there are many modern cultivars and hybrids to choose from. These include the RHS AGM awarded: ‘Alaska’ ‘Annaeei’ C. x ehemannii ‘Endeavour’ (water canna) ‘Erebus’ (water canna) ‘General Eisenhower’ ‘Louis Cayeux’ ‘Musifolia’ ‘Mystique’ ‘Phasion’ ‘Picasso’ ‘Ra’ (water canna) ‘Russian Red’ ‘Shenandoah’ ‘Striata’ ‘Verdi’ ‘Whithelm Pride’ ‘Wyoming’ C. edulis is the species commonly grown in agricultural cultivation. How To Grow Canna Canna lilies can be grown in beds or borders, or in containers. Growing in containers in cooler regions means the plants can be taken indoors during the coldest part of the year – they will require a sunny and sheltered spot. I have found that shelter is particularly crucial because the large leaves of the plants are often shredded by strong winds. Most of the cannas on the list above are best grown in moist but well-drained soil. They require a chalk, loam or sandy soil that is moderately high in fertility but will not become waterlogged. Remember, when choosing and positioning a Canna, that these grow into large plants – some varieties can reach well over 2m in height. Smaller varieties may be better for growing in containers, but even these will typically grow over a metre tall. Water cannas in a pond Water cannas are a little different – these can grow in a moist and well-watered border, or in a container placed in a basin of water. They can also be placed in pots into the shallow edges of a garden pond, as long as there is no more than around 15cm of water over their roots. Planting Canna Lilies Cultivars will not come true from seed – if you do decide to take the harder route and grow from seed, note that cannas grown from seed will not flower, typically, until their second year. For this reason, Canna are more generally grown from rhizomes (root sections), which are typically available for sale in late winter. Growing From Rhizomes In order to grow canna from rhizomes, gardeners simply place the root section into a pot of multi-purpose compost, with the rhizome just covered. This is usually done in March or April – as soon as conditions of 10-16°C can be maintained. If you have a conservatory, propagator or heated greenhouse, you can obviously start a bit earlier than those without heated growing spaces. Pot-Grown Plants If you have missed out on planting rhizomes for canna lilies this year – don’t worry. Canna lilies can also be purchased as pot-grown plants at any point over the late spring or summer. Early Plant Care Canna lilies that have been grown from rhizomes should start to develop strong shoots in a matter of weeks. As the shoots develop, it is important to make sure that you keep up with the watering of your plants. Keep Cannas protected and undercover until all risk of frost has passed in your area. Harden off and plant out around the end of May in most parts of the UK. If you are growing your Canna in a bed or border of the summer, plant out at a spacing of around 75cm apart, and around 10cm deep. Mulch well around the plants with good quality homemade compost or well-rotted manure. If you are placing your Canna in containers, make sure that the containers you choose are at least 30cm wide. A John Innes no. 3 loam-based compost will be ideal as a growing medium; again, place the rhizomes around 10cm deep. Summer Care Caring for Canna lilies over the summer months is generally fairly easy and hassle-free. You need to make sure that you provide plenty of water during dry spells, while it is also a good idea to provide a potassium-rich organic liquid feed in mid-summer. Canna in sheltered spots should not usually need staking, but some support may be beneficial for particularly tall specimens, or for those grown in a slightly exposed spot. Common Problems One piece of good news is that Canna in the UK are rarely seriously troubled by pests or diseases. Just look out for the usual garden culprits – slugs, snails, aphids etc. Though they can be annoying, these pests are generally pretty easy to control in a well-balanced ecosystem of an organic garden. Rarely, the plants may develop a virus – sadly, there is no cure for this and the infected specimens must be destroyed. But most canna growers generally experience few problems and find Canna relatively easy and trouble-free to grow. Non-Flowering Problems of non-flowering which can arise are usually the result of trying to grow Canna in an unsuitable spot, starting to grow rhizomes too late, a lack of water or poor soil fertility. But take care of the soil, plant at the right time, and water well and you should not encounter issues. Most Canna care over the summer months will involve taking a couple of simple steps to make sure that the flowers bloom for as long as possible. First of all, it is a good idea to deadhead the spent flowers, which will encourage more to appear. Once a particular flower spike stops budding, it is also a good idea to cut it down to the next side shoot. This should encourage a secondary flower spike to develop. References 1. Cannas. (2021, December 21). The Gardens Trust. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://thegardenstrust.blog/2016/02/20/cannas/ 2. Imai, S. (2016, April 15). Edible Canna: A Prospective Plant Resource from South America. Academia. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.academia.edu/24407832/Edible_Canna_A_Prospective_Plant_Resource_from_South_America 3. Canna indica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:319130-2 4. Vankar, P. S., & Srivastava, J. (2018). A review-canna the wonder plant. Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology, 4(2). https://doi.org/10.15406/jteft.2018.04.00134 5. Canna can: Ornamental eliminates pollutants from stormwater runoff. (2009, December 9). Science Daily. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/12/091210153659.htm
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Create Your Own Herbaceous Border - Use Perennials For 'A Succession Of Flowering'
IN THIS GUIDE What Is A Herbaceous Border? Marking Out & Preparation 1) Don’t Restrict Yourself To The Very Edges Of The Garden 2) Use Natural Materials For Edging 3) Consider No Dig Methods 4) Place Your Plants By Height 5) Plant In Ribbons Choosing Plants For A Herbaceous Border Best Flowering Perennials For A Herbaceous Border Planting Your Perennial Border References Creating a stunning herbaceous border can be great for the wildlife in your garden, and great for you. Herbaceous borders are great for gardeners who want to create a beautiful and long-lasting garden design. These planting schemes are great for biodiversity – and for attracting plenty of beneficial creatures to share your space. “There are a huge number of perennials available to gardeners in the UK climate, from early spring to early winter,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “When planned to provide a succession of flowering and combined with bulbs, shrubs and trees, they can provide a huge amount of floral resources for pollinators and food and habitat for other garden life.” They can also be quite quick to establish, meaning that you might not have to wait as long to get a lush and established look in your garden. If you would like to learn how to create a stunning herbaceous border where you live, then read on for some tips and suggestions. What Is A Herbaceous Border? Borders like these are a haven for pollinators A herbaceous border is a garden growing area that features a range of herbaceous perennials (plants that live in your garden over a number of years, but which die back each winter). The concept of herbaceous borders evolved here in the UK during the 19th Century.1 The term is usually used synonymously with the ‘herb perennial border’, which is the more popular name for this type of planting in the US and elsewhere. Marking Out & Preparation “If you’ve not done it before, start with planning,” shares Jinny Blom, a Garden Designer. “Map out the seasons first, then I’d go for colour. You need to give yourself some simple rules. “I’d also recommend flicking through some books that show plants in their native habitat, which means that you can quickly understand how big they are and what they do.” 1) Don’t Restrict Yourself To The Very Edges Of The Garden “Firstly, make borders wide enough,” shares award-winning Horticulturist Andy McIndoe. “1m wide is an absolute minimum, 2m is much better and 3m wide is ideal. This always seems excessive until plants start to grow. “You may think bigger borders mean more gardening work, but in fact, it’s quite the opposite. Give the plants the space and you will not spend your time cutting them back to keep them in the space.” Consider bringing the plants out of the edges, curving borders out into the centre of the space, or using herbaceous borders as divisions between garden rooms. Use curving and sinuous forms for a more naturalistic look. 2) Use Natural Materials For Edging If creating bed edging for your new border, consider natural or reclaimed materials. Or – consider simply edging the border with living ground cover plants. Mark out the edge of your new border with flour, string and stakes, or with a garden hose to create the edge of a more sinuous shape. “Try and keep the edges of your border neat,” says Laura from The 3 Growbags. “It’s ridiculous what folk will forgive if the border edges are sharp and look well-cared for.” 3) Consider No Dig Methods Consider using no dig methods – when creating a border on lawn, cover the grass with cardboard then layer up mulches before topping with a layer of well-rotted compost/ manure. You will dig planting holes to accommodate each plant but most of the soil will remain undisturbed. You can then add an organic mulch around your plants once you have placed them, and replenish this in spring each year. If you are already working with bare soil, make sure this is weed-free, then top dress with plenty of compost and/or other organic material. 4) Place Your Plants By Height For a very formal and regimented design, place taller perennials at the back of the border, mid-height plants at the centre, and low-growing or ground cover plants at the front. However, you can also mix things up a little and place wispy, tall plants close to the front of the border, so you look through these to the plants behind. Placing taller plants towards the front of the border can help break up the lower, mounded forms and make it look for organic, free-flowing and natural. “I think what often gets forgotten is playing around with height to create a three-dimensional space,” shares Garden Designer Juliet Sargeant. “There’s often a little strip of bare earth left at the front of a border, so pay attention to the front and make sure you put a few low-growing plants that spill over into the front of the path there. “Place tall plants at the back to make people’s eyes sweep up over the whole border. “It’s also really nice to break that up with translucent plants that have some ethereal movement to them so that you look through them. “Think about where people will actually be looking; plant to encourage people to look actively at the planting.” 5) Plant In Ribbons Plant in ribbons, or drifts of plants, and avoid placing too many individual flower types, which can make the overall border look a bit messy and overly fussy. Be sure to mix textures and forms to create a look which leads the eye and flows in a natural way. Avoid creating straight lines and solid blocks of colour on foliage, as these can be jarring and spoil the overall effect. “Nothing will ever be perfect in a garden and nor should it be,” says Laura. “It’s the striving for perfection that feeds the soul.” Choosing Plants For A Herbaceous Border Think about the environmental conditions. Be sure to choose plants suited to the climate and microclimate where you live. Think about whether the border is sunny or shaded, sheltered or exposed, and choose plants accordingly. Choose a selection of plants which provide blooms and visual appeal over as much of the year as possible. Try to make sure that each time one plant in the border finishes blooming, there are at least a couple more ready to take over. Consider native perennials, which can be particularly well suited to local growing conditions, and which can be particularly beneficial for local wildlife. Don’t overlook the potential of edible perennials, perennial herbs and other useful perennial plants as well as flowering ornamentals. A herbaceous border can be useful as well as beautiful. Remember that you can always ‘break the rules’ a little, and keep your border looking fantastic all year round by including grasses for autumn/ winter interest – and perhaps also some flowering shrubs towards the back of your perennial border. Consider whether the plants you are selecting will fit in with the overall look and feel of your garden. Will they be suited to the style of garden (contemporary, rustic, natural, wildlife-friendly etc.) that you want to create? Consider whether you will have a colour scheme for your garden. While there are no rules, and if you want a cacophony of colour you can certainly have one, it can often be best to choose a few hues and create a scheme centred around those colours. For example, you might create a silver and blue border, a green and white border, or a border with reds, purples and pinks or a sunny border with yellows and oranges, for example. “For the planting, think foliage first and flows second,” says Andy. “You need enough structure and you must plant for continuity. “This can be the problem with taking inspiration from show gardens. Remember that they are only there for a week, whilst your garden will be staring back at you year after year!” Best Flowering Perennials For A Herbaceous Border A beautiful herbaceous border To give an example of how to create a stunning herbaceous border, let’s take a look at some suggestions for a sunny herbaceous border, with year-round flowers in shades of purple, purplish pinks and blue. Here are some beautiful options to consider: Agastache Asters Bergenia cordifolia Campanula Centaurea montana Ceratostigma plumbaginoides Chives / Alliums Comfrey Delphiniums Echinops ritro Eryngium Geraniums Heuchera Hosta Limonium platyphylum Lupins Penstemon Perennial Brassicas Salvias Scabiosa Sedums Stachys byzantina Verbena bonariensis Veronica Violas Many of the options listed above will also work well alongside certain ornamental grasses, or alongside small shrubby plants like – most obviously, lavender, thymes and other perennial herbs, and perhaps some heathers too. Herbaceous border with sea holly, lavender, poppies, salvia, achillea and more! Fortunately, there are choices of plants in many different shades that will work very well in many UK gardens. The plants listed above are just a few examples for one particular scheme. Learning more about different plants that will grow well where you live, and the details of their blooming and care, will help you make the right choices for your own specific border. Make the right plant choices and your herbaceous perennial border can be in bloom from May or even earlier right through to September and beyond. Planting Your Perennial Border Once you have chosen which plants to include in your border, and once the border preparation has been done, it is a good idea to lay out the plants in their pots into the growing area, so you can play around with them and decide what to place where before you actually commit. March and September are the ideal times for planting out perennials. But you can plant them out at any time throughout the year, as long as the ground is not frozen, or waterlogged. It is also best to avoid times of extreme heat and dry conditions, as this can also make it more difficult for plants to become established successfully. See The Bigger Picture Once you have placed all your plants in their pots, be sure to stand back a little so you can take in the overall effect. It can be difficult to see the bigger picture when focussing closely on a few grouped plants. If you’re certain that you are happy with the overall look and balance of the border, then you can begin to plant all your plants. Bury each one to the same depth that it was in its pot. Then water your plants in well, and lay your organic mulch around your plants, making sure that you do not pile it up around the stems or crowns, as this can cause them to rot. Make sure that you continue to water well and regularly until the planting has become more established. References 1. The curious history of herbaceous borders. (1997, June 26). The Economist. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.economist.com/moreover/1997/06/26/the-curious-history-of-herbaceous-borders
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Mandevilla 'Rock Trumpet' Plants - Happiest Grown In A Conservatory Or Greenhouse
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Mandevilla Mandevilla Plant Care Common Problems References Mandevilla were previously classified within the Dipladenia genus, but were separated and re-classified in 1933.1 Nevertheless, these plants are sometimes referred to as being one and the same. They are probably better known as ‘Chilean Jasmine’ or ‘Rock Trumpet’ and are named after Henry Mandeville, an English diplomat and botanist.2 Mandevilla are usually climbers with showy, sometimes scented, flowers opening in the summer. However, they originate from warmer climates – meaning they are tender and are happiest grown in a conservatory or greenhouse here in the United Kingdom. Overview Botanical Name Mandevilla Common Name(s) Dipladenia, Rock Trumpet, Chilean Jasmine Plant Type Climber / Houseplant Native Area Americas Hardiness Rating H2/H3 Foliage Semi-evergreen climber Flowers Large, showy flowers When To Sow (Indoors) April, May Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September When To Prune March Mandevillas are perennial climbers that originate from North, Central and South America.3 They are stunning ornamentals that can have red, yellow, pink or even white flowers that are often scented and can bloom for months on end during the summer. Flowers are produced on the current year’s new growth and it is important to provide the right warm and humid conditions for the new shoots to grow to produce blooms later in the year. Varieties that are commonly available here in the United Kingdom include: Mandevilla sanderi M. laxa AGM M. boliviensis AGM Mandevilla is a great climber, with an exotic feel and easily grown in a pot. It can be a great addition to a conservatory or even an outside terrace, but only during the warmer months. How To Grow Mandevilla Mandevillas are most commonly grown from small plants available from local plant nurseries or online. They need indoor protection during the colder months and prefer full sunshine, although will need shading from the hot midday sun. Mandevillas are tender plants and need to be kept over winter in temperatures above 10°C and during spring require a humid and warm environment with temperatures of 18°C at night and 21°C during the day. However during the summer months, they can be placed outdoors in a sheltered and sunny spot. Mandevilla can be grown from seed in spring, but will need the warmth of a propagator to help them to germinate, or grown from softwood cuttings taken in early summer. If taking cuttings, new growth must be selected and in order to take root will need the bottom heat of a propagator. Where To Grow Mandevilla prefer full sun and a sheltered spot to grow well and produce the wonderful blooms they are known for. They are most commonly grown in pots so they can easily be moved depending on the seasons. Due to their temperature requirements, they are often grown in a conservatory or heated greenhouse and only placed outside during the warmest months of the year. Supports Supports are required for the climbers to grow up. Bamboo canes forming a tripod are often provided in the pot when bought, but in time and depending on space a taller support will be required. Longer term, metal climbing supports such as obelisks are ideal as they will not rot over time and provide a strong frame for the plant to grow upon. Mandevilla Plant Care To plant Mandevilla fill a pot with a free-draining, soil-based compost such as John Innes No.2 and plant at the same depth as previously planted. The shoots will need tying-in to begin with and the tops can be pinched out to promote bushier growth if required. Watering During the growing season, Mandevilla will need watering and feeding often, they do not like to have wet roots so make sure there is adequate drainage. During the winter months, growth will slow and the plant will need less moisture so reduce watering and cease feeding until spring. Repotting Mandevilla are grown for their flowers, which are only produced on new growth. Thus it is important to care for the plants during spring when the plant begins growing again after winter. It is recommended that Mandevilla are re-potted each spring with fresh compost and a larger pot as required. Pruning Depending on the variety, Mandevilla can grow to 4.5M tall. However, M. sanderi will usually grow to no more than 1.5M and thus might reach a better size if pot-grown and moved around depending on the seasons. Mandevilla are classed as RHS pruning group 12 and require pruning in late winter or early spring before any new growth appears.4 To prune, cut back any side shoots to 3-4 buds from the main framework and cut back any vertical stems outgrowing the supports. “Don’t be tempted to prune after mid-March as you could delay or stop flowering for that year because blooms break from the current year’s growth,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I find it convenient to prune and repot these plants at the same time each February.” Common Problems Pests Mealybugs are insects that feed on the sap of house and greenhouse plants, including Mandevilla. The telltale sign of mealybugs is a white fluffy residue left on the leaves and in the leaf joints. Aphids are also common with Mandevilla (I had recurring infestations when growing as a houseplant) and they are usually visible with the naked eye. Mealybugs or aphids do not mean the plant is destined for the compost pile, but can easily be dealt with if quick remedial action is taken. Firstly remove the affected plant from any others to avoid any spreading and contamination. Wipe away any sign of mealybugs or aphids from the plant using a wet sponge or baby wipe and remove any damaged leaves which may harbour eggs. Ladybirds like to eat mealybugs or aphids and their eggs and can be introduced during the summer months as a non-pesticidal approach. Pesticide control can include spraying the affected plant with plant oils, fatty acids and natural pyrethrum. I had particular success by removing aphids by hand, then spraying with neem, which seemed to make the surface of the plant a no-go zone for pests. Not Flowering Mandevilla needs the correct pruning regime, seasonal environment conditions and nutrients in order to flower. It is important not to prune the plant any later than spring as the new growth and subsequent blooms may be pruned off accidentally. Flowers are produced on new growth and thus it is important to make sure that the conditions are correct for the new shoots to appear. The correct temperature, soil kept moist (but not wet) and feeding the plant from spring onwards should help encourage the flowers to bloom. Leaves Falling Off Mandevilla are semi-evergreen and may drop some leaves during the winter months, this can be seasonal and nothing to worry about. However, if leaves are dropping during the summer then check you are not over or under-watering the plant and that there are no obvious pests, such as mealybugs on the plant. References 1. Palumbo, F., Draga, S., Scariolo, F., Gabelli, G., Batta Sacilotto, G., Gazzola, M., & Barcaccia, G. (2022, August 16). First genomic insights into the Mandevilla genus. Frontier. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2022.983879/full 2. Mandevilla. (n.d.). Heemskerk Flowers. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://en.heemskerkflowers.com/mandevilla 3. Mandevilla. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328998-2 4. Climbers and wall shrubs: pruning established plants. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/climbers/established-pruning-guide
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Growing Runner Beans: Sowing, Planting Out, Support And Plant Care Explained
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Runner Beans Runner Beans Plant Care Common Problems References Runner beans have been a staple crop of gardeners and growers for decades. They are an easy vegetable to grow, often producing hefty harvests from the middle of summer until early autumn. They are a favourite of slugs and snails, but if protected well whilst young, will provide an ample supply of long green beans to pick and eat for weeks on end. They can be so prolific that you may well end up with a freezer full of them to tide you over the winter months. Overview Botanical Name Phaseolus coccineus Common Name(s) Runner Beans Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Central America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual, leafy-green Flowers Scarlet, peach or white flowers prior to pods forming When To Sow April, May, June, July Harvesting Months July, August, September, October Phaseolus coccineus, better known as ‘runner beans’, originates from various countries in Central America.1 They are actually a perennial plant, but not being frost hardy are usually grown as an annual here in the UK. Runner beans don’t crop well in high temperatures, which is why they are well-suited to our typical summers. In typically warmer countries such as America and Germany they are grown ornamentally for their red, white and bi-coloured flowers and attract pollinators. “Runner beans are a very attractive edible plant and I confess I like the flower as much as I like the crop,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Their reliability in a variable British summer makes them a mainstay of the bean crop in my gardens.” Well-known varieties commonly include ‘Benchmaster’, ‘Lady Di’ and ‘White Lady’, all having been given the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). Runner beans are delicious – they are great cooked and added to a main meal or tossed into a bowl full of pasta or curry. How To Grow Runner Beans Runner beans are easy to grow and being large seeds are a great vegetable to grow with children. They can be given a head start by sowing indoors in late April or May, or directly into the ground outside in late May or early June. They are also readily available as young plants. Sowing Indoors Sow one seed per small pot, filled with multi-purpose peat-free compost, 5cm deep. Place on a sunny window sill or in a propagator, keep well-watered and germination should occur within 7-10 days. Seedlings can be planted out once hardened off and the last risk of frost is over, typically around late May in the UK. Sowing Outdoors Note that by sowing outdoors at a later date, you risk not giving your plants enough of a head start, meaning you are likely to see a much-reduced crop compared with indoors sowing. Sowing directly outdoors is still possible, however. Once the last risk of frost is over, sow two seeds at the bottom of each cane or support at a depth of 5cm. Water well and germination should occur within 7-10 days. Thin to one seedling per cane for support and fiercely protect from slugs and snails. Planting Out You should plant out your runner beans after the risk of last frost has passed (usually in May). Runner beans like to grow in full sun, but can do well in part shade as well. They are hungry plants and will be happiest if lots of well-rotted manure or homemade compost is added to the soil for them to get their roots into. Runner beans can easily grow to 2.5m high so lots of vertical space and support for them to grow upwards are needed. Supports Making supports for the beans to grow upon is half the fun of growing them. Most commonly used are bamboo canes formed into a tall A-frame or wigwam with canes spaced 20-30cm apart. These canes need to be securely pushed into the ground and tied together with string or cable ties, as the weight of the mature plants can be considerable and act like a sail in high winds. Coppiced poles can be used for a more sustainable approach; the most widely used wood used for bean poles is hazel. These hazel rods are more expensive than bamboo canes but are decisively stronger, considered more attractive and should last for several years. Runner Beans Plant Care Runner beans are a climbing plant but will need tying-in to their supports whilst young. Once they have reached the top of their support their growing tip can be pinched out to encourage a bushier habit. Runner beans are not only hungry, but thirsty plants and especially need water when in flower to encourage the pods to set. Mulching around the bottom of the plants is recommended as this will help lock in and conserve moisture. The plants need copious amounts of water, in hot dry weather you can tell they need water by the wilting foliage, but aim for a good drenching at least twice a week. Being hungry plants, runner beans will benefit from a liquid feed applied to the roots every two weeks. Tomato feed can be used at half the usual concentration rate. Once the beans finish cropping, remove the supports and cut the plants down to 5cm high leaving the roots in the soil. By doing this the roots will rot down feeding the soil with nitrogen for the next crop such as brassicas. Common Problems Weeds Weeds can cause havoc with runner bean plants. Not only do they compete for the much-needed nutrients, moisture and space in the soil, but they can even restrict the growth of young plants. By removing the weeds little and often they will not be allowed to take over and the result will be healthier bean plants and a bigger harvest. Slugs & Snails Runner bean plants, especially when young, are a gourmet delight to slugs and snails. It can be so disheartening to find your seedling decimated overnight, so prevention is key. Sowing in pots means you can plant out larger more established plants when ready which will be less susceptible to damage. If sowing direct, surround the seeded areas with a barrier such as wool pellets, copper tape or eggshells and be vigilant. You’ll be amazed at how many slugs and snails you can remove by hand early in the morning or late at night. Aphids Black bean aphids, or ‘black fly’ as they are more commonly known, are probably the most common pest of the runner bean here in the UK. Tiny as they are, they can severely weaken plants and attract ants that feed off the honeydew left behind. The blackfly tend to go for soft young shoots, but will often congregate on the underside of leaves as well. Non-pesticide control includes squashing by hand, spraying gently with water and encouraging ladybirds and hoverflies which will devour them. Pesticide controls can include spraying with fatty acids, plant oils and (as a last resort) insecticides. It should be noted though that pesticides should never be applied when the plants are in flower to avoid any danger to bees and other pollinators. References 1. Phaseolus coccineus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:513754-1
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Growing Calabrese AKA 'Broccoli' - Here Are Some Top Tips From Allotment Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Calabrese Cultivars Planting Calabrese Companion Plants For Broccoli Plant Care Mulching Crop Rotation References Calabrese is the proper name for what most people think of as broccoli here in the UK. There is a lot of confusion over the name, but those vegetables with large green heads that look like little trees are a specific type of broccoli known as Calabrese. Calabrese are sown in spring and harvested over the summer. Sprouting broccoli, on the other hand, is planted one year, overwinters – and then provides its yield not in its first season but the following year. Sprouting broccoli has many smaller florets, rather than one central initial head. These are often purple or white in colour. Overview Botanical Name Brassica oleracea var. italica, calabrese Common Name(s) Broccoli Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Biennial but harvested first season When To Sow March, April, May, June Harvesting Months July, August Both the plant referred to as Calabrese in the UK, and broccoli that overwinters, are Brassica oleracea. Both Calabrese and sprouting broccoli are in a cultivar group called ‘Italica’ within that species. Cauliflower and Romanesco also belong to this group. Calabrese Broccoli Many other brassicas that we grow as garden crops in a vegetable garden, including kale, collard greens, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and kohlrabi belong to different cultivar groups within this species. Calabrese, what we most typically think of as broccoli today, is named after Calabria in Italy.1 It is a plant which grows up to 60cm in height, and produces green heads up to around 15cm across. While there are also plenty of great reasons to grow sprouting broccoli in your garden, Calabrese is easier for beginners, quicker to crop, and is a staple of home growing in cool temperate climate zones. Calabrese Cultivars Once you have decided to grow Calabrese at home, the first thing you need to think about is which particular named cultivar of Calabrese broccoli you would like to grow. ”I love Calabrese because it’s so easy to grow and cook,” says Garden Writer Janice Shipp. Named cultivars of this type of broccoli in the UK include: ‘Belstar’ ‘Fiesta’ ‘Green Magic’ ‘Ironman’ ‘Kabuki’ ‘Marathon’ ‘Monaco’ ‘Monclano’ ‘Sakura’ Planting Calabrese Calabrese is best grown in a fertile growing area in full sun or very light shade. The soil should be moisture-retentive yet reasonably free draining. Since Calabrese and other brassicas have high nitrogen requirements, it is best to plant into a bed that has been amended with plenty of organic matter. It can also be helpful to place Calabrese into a bed that has just been vacated by nitrogen-fixing plants (such as broad beans or peas which have overwintered, for example). Before planting out Calabrese, make sure you have enriched the growing area with plenty of good quality compost or well-rotted manure. “Brassicas like Calabrese need protecting, not only from slugs and snails but from the dreaded cabbage white butterfly,” shares Allotmenteer Emma Bailey. “These like to lay their eggs on the leaves and once the caterpillars hatch, they can eat your crop within a couple of days! Be sure to net them as soon as you plant them out. “Pigeons also love a good munch on brassica plants. Make sure the netting goes all the way to the bottom of the raised bed so that birds don’t get underneath and get trapped.” Companion Plants For Broccoli If you have sown some Calabrese, or are thinking about doing so, it is also a good idea to think about which other plants to include in the same growing area. Companion planting can help you make the most of your space, and can increase the yield you are able to achieve in your vegetable plot. Calabrese can grow well alongside other brassicas, and including your brassicas in the same bed can make it easier to rotate your crops. We’ll look at crop rotation a little later in this article. But in addition to growing other brassicas, you should also consider adding other plants which work well, and which will aid the Calabrese and help enrich biodiversity in your organic garden. Other common crops which will work well alongside your Calabrese broccoli include: Beans – for nitrogen fixation. Beetroot – they like similar conditions, and beetroots require little calcium, which is good for brassicas. Lettuce – growing ‘quick-growing’ lettuces between Calabrese helps make the most of the space and these will be harvested before the space (and resources) are required by your main crop. It’s also good to let chickweed spread and give ground cover between Calabrese. This weed is also a useful edible, and has attractive flowers. Onions, Leeks or Garlic – these may help to repel pests that may plague your Calabrese, such as cabbage worm, weevil and cabbage looper. Aromatic Herbs – for example: rosemary, thyme, sage, dill, mint etc. – these will also repel, confuse or act as a distraction to pests. Flowers – such as marigolds, borage and nasturtiums – all of which can be excellent companion plants in a vegetable garden. Keep Calabrese away from asparagus, sweetcorn, squash, and other heavy feeders, which will compete too much with your broccoli plants. Also keep brassicas away from tomatoes and peppers, since these can attract verticillium wilt, which can spread to damage your Calabrese. Some gardeners also report that radishes do not do very well when planted near brassicas like Calabrese. Plant Care Mulching Mulching is an important part of organic gardening, and it is particularly important when growing ‘hungry’ plants like Calabrese broccoli. Choosing the right mulches for the right crops is important. When it comes to brassicas, and other nitrogen-hungry plants, a green, nitrogen-rich mulch can work wonders. For example, grass clippings (especially from lawns rich in clover), or other leafy green material can make a good mulch to lay between your Calabrese. As this leafy material breaks down, it will give the brassicas the nitrogen they need. Of course, you can also mulch around brassicas with homemade or commercial compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure. Crop Rotation Annual brassicas like Calabrese are one of the crops that are best rotated between different growing areas. When brassicas are grown in the same bed year after year, diseases such as clubroot (a fungal infection that can destroy brassicas by infecting their roots) are more likely to take hold. Clubroot can also be avoided by making sure that the soil is slightly alkaline (using lime to raise pH if necessary), and by avoiding waterlogging and compaction. Brassicas will appreciate it if they are placed in a crop rotation following peas, beans or other nitrogen fixers. They are often followed by potatoes in a four-year rotation, and the potatoes are then followed by alliums (onion family) and root crops. References 1. The Joy Of Purple Broccoli. (2022, January 26). Buffalo Market. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.buffalomarket.com/blogs/news/the-joy-of-purple-broccoli
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Dragon Tree Houseplant Care - This Is How You Should Water, Repot And Prune Your Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Dracaena marginata? Dragon Tree Varieties Where To Grow Plant Care Propagation References Dracaena marginata, also known as dragon tree, is a particularly eye-catching houseplant to consider for your home. Dracaena marginata – ‘Dragon Tree’ – is an evergreen that commonly finds a home in offices and homes in temperate climes such as the UK. It is also named D. reflexa var. angustifolia in its native range – in Madagascar, and the Indian Ocean islands. Overview Botanical Name Dracaena marginata Common Name(s) Dragon Tree Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Madagascar Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small flowers, rarely seen When To Propagate March, April, May, June, July, August, September When To Prune March It is a towering tree, which can grow over 3m in height, with trunks as wide as a man’s leg, or even wider. It is a tropical plant, which thrives in the intermittent heavy rains and droughts of its native range. When grown as a houseplant in temperate climates, it will not grow anywhere near as large. Typically, when grown in a container indoors, Dragon trees will have a height of around 2m or so, rarely exceeding 1.5m. In its native range, it produces tiny white flowers in the spring, though it is extremely rare for this plant to flower at all when it is grown indoors. It is a tender plant (H1B hardiness rating), meaning it is generally grown indoors in the UK but can be grown outside in the summer months when temperatures are consistently over 10°C.1 Even though a Dragon Tree grown as a houseplant cannot hope to compete with the wonderful wild specimens, it can still be a very attractive addition to your home. These plants have sword-like green leaves with reddish edges, which fan out a little like a palm atop a slender trunk. Why Grow Dracaena marginata? D. marginata is an extremely popular houseplant for a number of reasons. For one thing, it has a bold, architectural form that can lend itself to a range of interior design styles. They are moderately easy to care for (as you will learn below) and will thrive in a reasonably wide range of conditions. It is well suited to indoors growth and can thrive even with little care. Dragon Tree Varieties There are a number of named cultivars to consider when choosing a dragon tree to grow as a houseplant in your home. D. marginata ‘Tricolor’ and D. marginata ‘Variegata’ are the most commonly grown cultivars here in the UK and have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit. Other named cultivars include ‘Colorama’, ‘Magenta’, and ‘Tarzan’. See more types here. Where To Grow D. marginata should be grown indoors, in a light and bright location, but out of direct sunlight, which can cause burning to the foliage. Choose a location where temperatures consistently remain above around 15°C. Optimum temperatures for a dragon tree are between around 21-26°C. Regular household humidity should be absolutely fine for these plants. However, if the conditions are particularly dry, consider increasing humidity by grouping this with other houseplants, and perhaps by misting lightly every week or so in drier periods. While this plant can do well as a lone houseplant, it may do better when grouped with several other low-maintenance tropical plants. “Once temperatures are consistently above 10°C, D. marginata can be moved outside, ideally in dappled shade and not in full sun, where it can be enjoyed perhaps as part of a patio arrangement,” says Roy, a Master Horticulturist and Professional Gardener. Plant Care Container & Growing Medium D. marginata should be placed in a container of sufficient size to accommodate its root system, with around an inch or so of the medium around each side. In terms of the growing medium: a well-drained, fertile, loam-based compost is the best choice. Watering Watering is where many houseplant owners may go wrong when it comes to caring for D. marginata. Like other drought-tolerant plants, overwatering is the most common issue. While these plants can cope rather well with dry conditions, they cannot tolerate waterlogged, soggy conditions. “Ideally, plants should be planted in pots with drainage holes on a saucer so excess water can be removed,” explains Roy. “Otherwise, careful monitoring is important, with the potting compost being allowed to dry out before watering.” When watering, try to use rainfall where possible – take care with water that contains higher levels of salt or fluoride. Both overwatering, and watering with water that is high in salt or fluoride, can cause browning of the leaves on your dragon tree plant. Common Problems D. marginata is blissfully untroubled by many common pests and diseases – and it is largely an extremely trouble-free plant to grow. Where things do go wrong, it is more likely to be a sign of overwatering or otherwise less than optimal conditions. However, some pests that might be found on this plant are mealybugs, sap-suckers like scale and thrips – and spider mites. These can do some damage, though will not usually kill your plant. It is a good idea to keep on top of any problems by checking over your plant regularly and rinsing off any pests that you find. See more on common houseplant bugs in this guide. Repotting D. marginata grows rather slowly, and will typically only need to be repotted every 2-3 years. Topdressing your container with a new layer of compost on the top is worthwhile doing more often, however. It is a good idea to replace the top section of growing medium annually, to replace less fertile and compacted material. Both repotting and refreshing/top dressing are best done in the spring. Pruning These plants do not typically require any pruning at all. However, if necessary, weak stems can be cut back to around 15 cm in the spring. Propagation If you would like to make new plants from an existing dragon tree, it is unlikely that you will be able to collect any seed when growing indoors. However, it is reasonably easy and straightforward to take cuttings from the tree that will increase your own stock of houseplants or give you plants to give away as gifts, perhaps, to family or friends. Stem cuttings from D. marginata will root relatively easily in water, and it is unlikely that you will need to use rooting hormone to get cuttings to root successfully. You can also propagate D. marginata by beheading; cutting off the top section of the plant, planting in potting compost and placing it on a heat mat or in a propagator to give some bottom heat until the stem roots. Or, by air layering where the stem is wounded and wrapped in sphagnum moss until roots appear and the stem can be cut away to make a new plant. References 1. Dracaena marginata (v) | Madagascar dragon tree. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/31916/dracaena-marginata-(v)/details
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Growing Tomatillos: The 'Husk Tomato' With Tangy Fruits And Sprawling Foliage
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Tomatillo? How To Grow Tomatillo Tomatillo Plant Care Harvesting Tomatillo References If you are looking for something different to grow in your garden, tomatillo could be something to consider. Fans of Mexican cuisine may already be familiar with these fruits, which are used in a range of recipes, but particularly for salsa verde. The tomatillo is a great plant to grow along with tomatoes at home if you want to make your own salsas and sauces. Overview Botanical Name Physalis ixocarpa Common Name(s) Tomatillo Plant Type Fruit Native Area Mexico & Central America Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small flowers followed by lantern-shaped fruits in papery husks When To Sow March, April, May Harvesting Months August, September The Tomatillo, Physalis ixocarpa, is a relative of the tomato, pepper and aubergine (Solanaceae), and is more closely related to the Cape Gooseberry, Physalis peruviana. It is sometimes also known as the husk tomato or Mexican green tomato. Tomatillos come from Mexico and Central America and have been an important food crop in that region for thousands of years.1 Now, they are cultivated and eaten all around the world – and they can grow well in UK gardens. They are sprawling plants which will grow up to around 1-1.2m in height, with a bushy, floppy form. Small, insect-pollinated flowers form, and tomatillo fruits emerge, surrounded by a papery husk. You will need to grow two plants for proper pollination. The fruits are usually green (though some purple varieties are also available) – they will usually grow no larger than around golf-ball size. Why Grow Tomatillo? The primary reason to grow tomatillo is for their edible fruits, and the opportunity to enjoy them in salsas and a range of other recipes. Harvested while green, the fruits have a tangy taste, which has been described as a combination of tomatoes and limes. “Once you’ve grown them, you’ll keep growing them,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “I love the fruits in a summer salad, as they provide a tangy burst of flavour. They are also great for a small vegetable garden due to the large number of fruits they produce in a small amount of space.” Some find them bitter when raw, though the flavour is said by most to be more appealing when the fruits are cooked. Another thing to note is that, while few would consider them a replacement for tomatoes, they can help in gardens where tomato pests and diseases are a problem. They could be at least a partial substitute for tomatoes that don’t make it through, since they are far more resilient crops and are resistant to a range of tomato problems. Tomatillos produce abundantly – two plants are usually considered to provide more than enough tomatillos for a typical family. How To Grow Tomatillo Tomatillo can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or outside across much of the UK. A study by the University of Warmia found that growing under cover does positively impact (though sometimes only slightly) the size of the harvest and/or rate of maturity.2 In colder regions, it’s likely always going to be easier to grow them undercover. Tomatillos do best in full sun, in a warm, sheltered location. They prefer a moist yet free-draining, fertile soil, and are relatively drought tolerant once established. If you are growing undercover, it is very important to make sure that there is access for the insects required for pollination. Unlike other crops like tomatoes and squash, I have found the tomatillo does not seem to respond well to manual pollination, so you need to make sure there are plenty of insects around in order to achieve a good fruit set. Sowing Tomatillo Seeds Tomatillo seeds should be sown in March or April, ideally in an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel, since nighttime temperature fluctuations are said to aid in successful germination. Germination will generally take place within a couple of weeks or so. As soon as the seeds have germinated and seedlings are large enough to handle, they should be placed into individual pots. After this, they can be placed out into their final growing positions in the garden, or potted on into larger containers for container growing – be sure to wait until all risk of frost has definitely passed in your area. Note: while tomatillos will fruit in containers, they will do better and produce much more abundantly when grown in the ground. It is crucial to make sure you get the timings right when planting out tomatillos. These are warm-season crops, and cannot tolerate even a light frost for a single night. If in doubt, err on the side of caution and plant out a little later. Tomatillo Plant Care Tomatillos require much the same care as tomato plants. Staking Like most tomatoes, tomatillos will do best when provided with some support. Tying them into a trellis, cage, or stake system can help make sure their fragile stems are not damaged by wind, and that fruits do not cause the plants to flop over, leaving fruits dangling onto the ground. It is a good idea to get support structures in place before you plant out your tomatillos, so you do not accidentally damage roots when putting support structures in place. Note however that you should not tie in tomatillos to supports right away. A natural stage of the growth of these plants involves the central stem flopping over to meet the soil. Once this happens, lateral roots are sent out, and heavy fruit-producing shoots form. It is these fruit-producing stems which can benefit from some support once fruits begin to form. Planting Out When planting out your tomatillos, do as you would with tomatoes and bury them a little deeper in the soil than they were in their previous containers. The stems that are buried below the soil should develop new roots, leading to a healthier and larger root system. This, in turn, leads to healthier and somewhat larger and more productive plants. Watering Water consistently, making sure that you deliver the water to where it is needed, at the base of the plant – do not water from above if possible. Keep soil moist but avoid overwatering, and do not let water sit around the plant roots. Mulching Mulch around the base of the plants with an organic mulch, for slow-release fertility, to suppress weeds, and to conserve moisture in the soil or growing medium. Like tomatoes, tomatillo may benefit from a mulch of comfrey leaves, for example. Feeding Feed tomatillos as you would feed tomatoes and other members of this plant family, with a potash-rich organic feed while the plants are flowering and fruiting. Comfrey tea is one organic liquid plant feed to consider making for this purpose. Tomatillos are not as heavy feeders as tomatoes, but will still grow best when provided with fertile conditions and will appreciate some feed during the summer. Plants grown in containers will typically require a feed more often than plants grown in the soil. Common Problems Unlike tomatoes, tomatillos will not benefit from pinching out the growing tip. Leave them to grow and sprawl naturally (with some support) for best results. As mentioned above, tomatillos are largely untroubled by pests and disease, so other than their basic care, they should be very easy and not at all time-consuming to grow. Harvesting Tomatillo Tomatillos are typically ready to harvest in autumn, which could be anything from 65-100+ days after seedlings were transplanted. Harvest when the fruit has mostly filled the papery husk. It is best, in order to protect the fruits, to keep them within their husks – however, some people prefer to wait until the husks just start to split open before harvesting. Make sure that you harvest all ripe fruits, since those that fall to the ground may well emerge as new seedlings next year. In optimal conditions, self-seeding can be prolific. As soon as the plants begin to die, remove any remaining fruits and place them on a sunny windowsill where they will continue to ripen a little more. Alternatively, you can uproot the whole plant and hang it upside down in a cool location (such as a garage or shed) for the remaining fruits to ripen. The fruits can be used in the kitchen right away, but will also store for several months inside their husks, to be used later. Fruits with split husks can be stored at room temperature for a week or so, or in the fridge for up to around three weeks. Husk-free fruits can also be frozen for later use, or canned/bottled as part of canned salsa recipes. References 1. Tomatillo. (n.d.). Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://civi.wiscweb.wisc.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/822/2019/07/tomatillo.pdf 2. Majkowska-Gadomska, J., Mikulewicz, E., & Francke, A. (2021). Effects of Plant Covers and Mulching on the Biometric Parameters, Yield and Nutritional Value of Tomatillos (Physalis ixocarpa Brot. Ex Hornem.). Agronomy, 11(9), 1742. https://doi.org/10.3390/agronomy11091742
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Cultivate Easy Access To Culinary Herbs With These 15 Choices For Indoor Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Starting An Indoor Herb Garden 1) Basil 2) Bay 3) Catnip 4) Chervil 5) Chives 6) Coriander 7) Dill 8) Lemon Balm 9) Lemon Grass 10) Mint 11) Oregano / Marjoram 12) Parsley 13) Rosemary 14) Sage 15) Thyme Growing herbs indoors is a great way to make sure you have easy access to culinary herbs in your kitchen. If you are a keen cook, then you will no doubt be well aware of what a big difference fresh herbs can make to your dishes. Buying the herbs you need can be expensive, but growing your own herbs at home is very affordable. It will help you eat better, at a fraction of the cost. Of course, many common culinary herbs can find a place in your garden – but if you don’t have one, you can still grow your own herbs at home. “There are a few differences between life indoors and outdoors for these plants, which means there are a couple of things to keep an eye on,” warns Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Firstly, signs of a lack of light will include whitening or yellowing of foliage, which may be smaller. “Growth may become lop-sided; in which case, turning the container every few days is important. The good news is that besides some of the woodier herbs on this list, such as rosemary and sage which may pose more of a challenge, many can be successfully cut hard back and moved to a brighter position.” Starting An Indoor Herb Garden Coriander, Rosemary, Thyme and Mint Even if you do have a garden, having a small herb garden in or close to your kitchen can mean that they are always close at hand when you need them. If you would like to grow your own herbs indoors at home, it is important to understand that not all herbs are suited to indoor growing. Some prefer brighter light and outdoors conditions. But the fifteen herbs on the list below can all be grown successfully indoors – as long as you provide the right conditions and care for them correctly. Read on to learn about some great culinary herbs you could grow indoors, and to get a few tips on how to keep them alive: 1) Basil BOTANICAL NAME: Ocimum basilicum IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED Basil is a little fussier than some of the other herbs on this list. It prefers more sunlight than an indoors location can often provide, so if possible, it is often best to grow it outdoors. But here in the UK, growing basil outdoors can sometimes be a bit hit and miss too – especially with unpredictable weather conditions over the summer months. And on a bright and sunny windowsill indoors, you can still get good results when growing this annual herb. Make sure you place basil in a spot that gets at least six hours of sunlight per day – a south-facing windowsill is ideal. Use a container with good drainage, and make sure the potting medium remains moist but not sodden. Feed with an organic liquid feed like seaweed feed or compost tea over the summer for optimal growth. 2) Bay BOTANICAL NAME: Laurus nobilis IDEAL POSITION: HOUSEPLANT SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: MOIST; DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING Bay is a bit of an outlier on this list. Unlike the other herbs mentioned, bay is actually a tree. While it will not work in a small container on a narrow windowsill, however, it is an interesting option to consider growing indoors. Potted bay can work very well as a decorative houseplant in your home, as well as providing leaves for culinary use. Place bay in a free-draining yet moisture retentive medium, in a free-draining container large enough to accommodate the root system of the plant with an inch or two space around each side. Bay will do well near, but not too close to, a south or west-facing window – keep temperatures between around 15-24°C for optimal growth. Mist the tree to maintain humidity levels, or keep it close to a humid area such as a sunny bathroom or a kitchen sink. Water regularly in summer to keep the soil moist, but not wet. But let the top inch of the growing medium dry out between waterings in winter. 3) Catnip BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta cataria IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: WELL-DRAINED Catnip, like basil, will grow better outdoors, but it can thrive indoors too as long as it gets at least six hours of sunlight each day. If you have a cat, your biggest challenge is likely to be keeping the plant free from the ‘attentions’ of your feline friend. Otherwise, sunlight can be the biggest issue. Place it on a sunny windowsill and it can thrive. It needs well-drained conditions, and should not be overwatered as this can cause root rot. Indoors, catnip will not grow as vigorously as it would outdoors, but it can still provide leaves for cat entertainment, or for culinary use. It is a perennial herb, so will live more than one year, but will need to be potted on to avoid issues over time. 4) Chervil BOTANICAL NAME: Anthriscus cerefolium IDEAL POSITION: ANY ROOM WITH INDIRECT SUNLIGHT SUNLIGHT: LIGHT SHADE SOIL: CONSISTENTLY MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED Chervil is an annual herb that can thrive when grown indoors. It can often, in fact, grow better inside than out, since it can have a tendency to bolt in hot and sunny conditions. It prefers light shade and cooler temperatures. Trimming regularly for use in the kitchen can keep container-grown plants healthy and bushy and reduce bolting. Again, the growing medium should be kept consistently moist, but should be relatively free-draining for best results. Chervil can work well in a container alongside other herbs in the ‘fine herbes’ mix, chives and parsley, which like similar conditions. 5) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: KEEP WELL-DRAINED; MIST REGULARLY Chives can thrive on a sunny, south-facing windowsill, and will do best when provided with between 6 and 8 hours of sunshine per day when grown indoors. They like rather humid conditions, and can do well when grown in a pot grouped with other potted herbs, or in a mixed container alongside some of the other herbs on this list. Misting can also help where humidity is low. Feed occasionally with a dilute compost tea or other weak organic feed. Chives can be great to add to a windowsill herb garden because their scent can deter some common pests to a degree. Harvesting these herbs young as microgreens is another option which can be easier indoors. 6) Coriander BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum IDEAL POSITION: ANY WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT / PART SHADE SOIL: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERINGS Coriander can have a tendency to become leggy and spindly when grown without enough light. But place it on a sunny windowsill with at least 4-5 hours of sun per day and it should do fine indoors. Pinch the growing tips off for a bushier plant. It might not be as vigorous or productive as an outdoor grown specimen, but it should provide all the leaf coriander you need. Water coriander well, but allow the top of the growing medium to become dry to the touch between waterings. Make sure the container you choose allows free drainage. Feed with a balanced organic liquid feed weekly or fortnightly during the main growing season. 7) Dill BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens IDEAL POSITION: ANY WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: DEEP; WELL-DRAINED Dill needs special consideration when you grow it indoors. It forms a taproot and will need to have a container at least 12 inches deep, and at least 6-8 inches in diameter. Remember it is a taller plant, and may do better indoors with some support. Like other herbs on this list, dill needs a location with at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Again, as with coriander, pinch off the tops to encourage bushier growth. If you do not have space to grow dill into larger potted plants, consider growing it for micro-greens, and harvesting these when they are just a couple of weeks old. 8) Lemon Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Melissa officinalis IDEAL POSITION: ANY WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT / PART SHADE SOIL: FERTILE; FREE-DRAINING Lemon balm smells and tastes great, and is another good choice for growing indoors. Lemon balm will require at least 5 hours of sunlight per day, a reasonably fertile medium, and a pot which allows for moderately free-draining conditions. The larger the container, the larger your plant will grow. Water regularly, but do not saturate the medium. Use an organic liquid feed every couple of weeks over the summer months. 9) Lemon Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Cymbopogon citratus IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED Lemon grass is not a plant that will typically thrive outside in most of the UK, but you can grow it on a sunny windowsill inside your home. If weather conditions allow, you could place lemon grass outdoors over the summer, but you can also grow it indoors year-round in a sunny spot. You can place stalks bought from the shops into small pots to allow them to take root in spring or summer. Water thoroughly and regularly, but allow for good drainage. 10) Mint BOTANICAL NAME: MENTHA IDEAL POSITION: ANY SUNLIGHT: ANY SOIL: EVENLY MOIST Mint is one of the very easiest herbs to grow, whether you grow it indoors or outside in your garden. Mint can do well even with a bit less light than other options on this list. An east-facing window, for example, can be ideal in spring/summer. As a perennial, mint is a plant you can continue to enjoy over a number of years. Try to keep the soil evenly moist, not dried out or overly moist. Mint likes humid conditions so if humidity is low, misting can help keep your plant healthy. 11) Oregano / Marjoram BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare IDEAL POSITION: ANY WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: AERATED & FREE-DRAINING The related perennial herbs oregano and marjoram will both also be excellent choices for an indoor herb garden. A bright windowsill with morning sun is often ideal for growing these Mediterranean herbs. Choose a container and growing medium which provide light, aerated, free-draining conditions. Water on a regular schedule, but not excessively, especially during the cooler months when damp and waterlogging can become a problem. 12) Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED Parsley is a biennial plant that also thrives in an indoor herb garden. Parsley will grow best on a south-facing windowsill with at least 6 hours of sun each day. In a kitchen, humidity will often be high enough already – but if you grow it in a different room, with lower humidity, misting may help keep your parsley happy. Keep the soil consistently moist, but avoid letting the plant sit with its roots in water, as soggy conditions may cause problems for your parsley plant. 13) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: MAXIMISE SUNLIGHT SOIL: DEEP; FREE-DRAINING Rosemary has a reputation for being a somewhat more challenging plant to grow indoors. But if you bear a few things in mind, it is actually a relatively easy and trouble-free herb to try. The first thing is to make sure you use a deep enough container, filled with a free-draining growing medium. Place this in as sunny a spot as possible. Rosemary prefers to take moisture from the air, rather than through its roots, and will not tolerate waterlogged conditions. Mist foliage around once a week to provide the right humidity, and place a container with pebbles in it, filled with water, beneath the plant. Water only when the medium dries out. 14) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERINGS Sage, like so many other herbs on this list, needs at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. When grown in the right location, it should thrive when grown indoors. Group sage with other herbs in pots to raise humidity levels, and mist when humidity is low. Water consistently, but let the top inch or so of the growing medium dry out before you water again. For this and other herbs that like good drainage, clay pots are ideal. 15) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: THYMUS VULGARIS IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-OR-WEST FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: FREE-DRAINING; CONSISTENT WATERING A south or west-facing windowsill will be ideal for growing thyme. It can also grow well alongside other Mediterranean herbs on this list which like free-draining growing conditions. There are a range of different thymes to choose from. Water consistently, when soil is dry, but take care not to overwater. If growth is poor, feed every couple of weeks over the summer with a light organic liquid feed.
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The Kiwi Plant: How To Grow Young Vines As A Source Of Delicious Garden Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Growing Considerations Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Kiwis Harvesting Kiwis Common Problems Common Varieties References Matching the rise in popularity of the Kiwi fruit over the past few decades is the recent ascendancy of Kiwi as a garden plant. These come in a surprising array of fruiting vines which can be grown from coast to coast in the UK. Admittedly, maintaining Kiwi vines requires time and skill but think of the reward: a bounty of garden-grown luscious Kiwis. Kiwis are often thought of as a fruit native to New Zealand; an exotic fruit with not very many types. These are both misconceptions. The types of Kiwis that we commonly buy at the store are native to China and were introduced to New Zealand as late as 1904.1 It is not exotic as so many hybrids and cultivars exist that they can be grown in hardiness zones from H3 through to H7. The fuzzy-skinned green Kiwi that we know and love so well is Actinidia deliciosa. It originates in the southeastern coastal regions of China.2 Overview Botanical Name Actinidia Common Name(s) Kiwi Plant Type Fruit / Climber Native Area China Hardiness Rating H3-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Creamy white flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June Harvesting Months August, September When To Prune January, February, July The Actinidia genus contains about 60 species, plus many hybrids and cultivars of the prime fruiting species.3 Comprising of shrubs and vines, all of them bear fruit from the size of a large grape to the relatively large fuzzy Kiwi. A Kiwi Plantation in New Zealand’s Bay of Plenty The vines that bear the smaller fruit are hardy – some are very hardy – and these are native to north-eastern Russia. Growing Considerations The ‘Fuzzy Kiwi’ fruit that most of us are familiar with is that of the ‘tender Kiwi,’ usually Actinidia deliciosa, sometimes Actinidia chinensis. Kiwi vines are traditionally dioecious – they bear either male or female flowers.4 Only the female vines bear fruit whereas male vines are necessary for pollination. The vast majority of commercial-named cultivars are either male or female though a few occur in both male and female forms, though during the past couple of decades, some reliable monoecious self-fertile cultivars have been developed. Flowers are white or creamy with the male ones having very prominent yellow anthers. They are more or less bowl-shaped with a full look about them. All kiwi flowers are pleasantly fragrant with the sweetness and intensity of the fragrance varying by variety. Habitat & Growing Conditions The various species of Actinidia are native to a swath of land from India and the Himalayas arcing south-east to steamy Borneo and north-east to cold Manchuria and frigid Khabarovsk. As one might expect, these different species’ respective hardinesses span many zones. The genus includes frost-tender species that are good for RHS H3 areas (USDA Zone 8) through ‘super-hardy’ vines that are hardy right down to RHS H7 (USDA Zone 3). The species of paramount interest to us, A. deliciosa, grows wild in the south-eastern coast of China’s Zhejiang province in scrubland with soil of varying quality and where these plants are frequently exposed to stiff northeasterly winds. A. deliciosa (common kiwifruit) is hardy throughout most of the UK (RHS Zone H4). How To Grow Kiwis A few of the more popular cultivars like ‘Hayward’ and ‘Jenny’ can be found as potted plants at some of the bigger nurseries and garden centres. A more extensive selection of cultivars is available at a limited number of fruit tree specialists. These merchants are easily found online and they are your best bet for obtaining a quality vine. Young vines are supplied as potted plants and in bare root form. In addition, you can ‘get’ Kiwi vines yourself by propagating them from softwood cuttings – mid-spring is the ideal time to do so. Be aware: our plant care guidelines pertain to tender Kiwi vine varieties which are derived from A. deliciosa. You can grow these outdoors in most regions of the United Kingdom but if you live in the Scottish Highlands or a particularly cold region of northern England, you will have less trouble with a hardy Kiwi cultivar, unless you grow tender Kiwi vines in a greenhouse (though if you use traditional dioecious vines, fertilising the flowers will be a problematic chore). Soil Requirements In growing Kiwis, soil pH is not of much importance while other soil-related factors are of great importance. That said, the optimal soil pH is moderately acidic to slightly acidic; between pH 5.6 and 6.5. The soil should be laid deep and drain very well. It should be a sand-based, light, friable loam which should include chalk and may also be amended with compost but should have minimal or no clay. As any waterlogging is very detrimental to these vines, to ensure good drainage the ground may be worked into mounds or ridges into which Kiwi vines can be planted. Feeding You may work in just a little bonemeal, fishmeal, or both into the soil itself; do not ‘fertilise’ the roots with it. It will act as a slow-release fertiliser high in Phosphorous and Potassium. Exposure The site should be where the plants are sheltered but enjoy full sun. Ideally the vine should be positioned against a wall that shelters it from the north-east and leaves it with a south-westerly exposure. Spring frosts slow both flowering and fruiting. The vine can tolerate a frost of up to about -7°C; anything colder and it will likely suffer adverse effects. Vines are best planted out in early spring, two to four weeks after the last frost. Pollination If you intend to grow your Kiwis the traditional way with dioecious vines, go with one male vine and four or five female ones. These should be sited close to one another: ‘Atlas’ and ‘Hayward’ are the cultivars of choice. If you want to use a monoecious vine, which is a godsend if you have limited space or must grow your vine in a greenhouse where pollination will be next to impossible, ‘Jenny’ is a top choice for the UK; ‘Solissimo’ is an excellent alternative. Depending on the varieties and other variables, it takes two to five years, typically three, for vines to produce fruit. Watering Water regularly so that the soil is kept moist – it should not stay wet. Vines have increased water requirements soon after transplanting, when they are young, and when they are setting fruit. In wet parts of the country, established Kiwi vines may well get enough water from the rain. Support Female vines have to be grown and trained on trellises (though one ought to do so for male vines too). A Kiwi vine’s horizontal fruiting arms supported by a framework A-frame pergolas are even better as the vine is trained and opened on it in such a way that yields are boosted and harvesting is easier. Pruning For good yields the female vines – besides being adequately pollinated – need to be trained and correctly pruned. “My experience of kiwis (the vigorous cultivar ‘Jenny’) is that if they aren’t pruned annually, they will make a bid to take over your garden,” warns Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “When trained, they are an ornamental feature in their own right as well as a source of delicious fruit.” All said, it is a technical gardening endeavour that requires time and commitment. Train and prune each vine initially so that there is a single leader and about four arms or canes. (These will be refreshed about every three years.) When the leader gets to the top of the frame, pinch it to halt further growth. You should then have three or four strong lateral arms initially – these will become the first fruiting arms. Train these arms at an angle on the trellis and prune any new shoots. The aim is to have a single leader, and to maintain fruiting arms that are spaced from 50-70cm apart on the vine. The arms that are one or two years old bear the most fruit; arms bear less fruit as they age. In summers, deadhead spent flowers and thin them if the bloom is excessive. Train new shoots on the trellis to grow above and away from foliage so that they get the right start. In winters, prune the fruiting arms judiciously – prune arms that are three or more years old (provided you have a sufficient number of young fruiting arms). Maintain the correct spacing between these fruiting arms, and prune excess new shoots. Strive to keep a good balance of new shoots and one- and two-year arms. At this time, train the arms to grow above and away from the foliage. Overwintering Water the vine only now and then in winter. In winter keep an eye on the weather forecast. If a prolonged freeze or repeated frosts are expected, protect the main vine and leader right from the soil line with horticultural fleece. Feeding Every alternate year, you may mix in a touch of bonemeal, fishmeal, or both into the soil away from the roots each spring and then fertilise with nitrogen, or annually apply a little 10-10-10 slow-release fertiliser. Avoid using ‘regular’ fertiliser on Kiwi vines. Harvesting Kiwis As the flowers form into fruit – fruit set – and thereafter until the fruits are harvested, increased watering is beneficial. At this time the vine may be watered every other day. If you see an abundant setting of fruit or even abundant flowering (on the female vines, not the male vine), some thinning may be a good idea to ensure that the fruits you harvest are of the highest quality. Such thinning is dictated to a great extent by the cultivar; for example, ‘Hayward’ will benefit from it but ‘Issai’ will usually not need it. Where Kiwi in the UK is concerned, the best plan is to leave the fruit on the vine to mature (unless slugs or birds force your hand) through the autumn, aiming to pick it as late as possible. When the first ‘real’ frost is forecast, collect all the fruit. Kiwis will keep indefinitely in the fridge. If you have to ripen them, place them in a sunny spot in the kitchen or tightly wrap them in two or three layers of newspaper or cotton cloth. I would personally argue that Actinidia deliciosa – ‘Fuzzy Kiwi’ – eaten peeled and raw, is most enjoyable when the fruit (when pressed from around the peduncle attachment) does not feel at all soft, feels firm-to-hard, with about the firmness (or hardness) of a softwood branch. The flesh of such a fruit that feels raw to hand pressure will not only be just-ripe but will have a very appealing consistency that is not overly-soft or mushy but will have a bit of ‘bite’, and will be bursting with flavour – sweet, tart, and tangy all at once. Common Problems Kiwi plants are remarkably free of pests and diseases in the United Kingdom. If your garden or ground has any history of honey fungus, then you should avoid growing Kiwi as it is very susceptible to this dreadful plant disease. Other than that, the only real threat, such as it is, is from slugs. Even this will be precluded if your vine is on a sun-soaked wall or a type of trellis which cannot be navigated by these nuisance pests. Common Varieties Believe it or not, there are dozens of Kiwi varieties. In this section we present some of the most popular: A. deliciosa ‘Hayward’ A female vine that may just as well be called ‘Old Reliable’. The Kiwis that most of us have eaten and enjoyed are from this tried-and-trusted cultivar. It is by far the most abundant Kiwi cultivar in New Zealand and Italy’s plantations and is the only one used by California producers. It is not particularly high-yielding but the fruit is of top quality. The hen’s egg-sized fruit has green flesh that is sweet, tart, and tangy. You will need multiple ‘Hayward’ vines with one male vine to reap a good harvest of fruit. A. deliciosa ‘Bruno’ Has quite a misleading name, for this is a female vine. The fruit is of a dark brown colour and its ‘fuzz’ is a little bristlier than the fruits of ‘Hayward’. Compared to other female vines it is late to flower and, therefore, to fruit. While the fruit is of excellent quality this vine is also valued for being especially prolific. A. deliciosa ‘Jenny’ Renowned as a very robust climber that has particularly pretty foliage and even stems. This frost-tender vine produces fruits about the size of small eggs in mid-autumn. It is especially easy to grow as a compact, self-fertile cultivar that has proven itself. For a self-fertile vine it is comparatively high-yielding. Also, the fruit is of excellent quality as the flesh has a wonderful consistency and is on the sweet side. A. deliciosa ‘Atlas’ Considered to be the male cultivar of choice. It is a vigorous climber and produces blossoms through the summer. These creamy flowers display prominent golden-yellow stamens whose strong, sweet scent attracts bees and butterflies in droves. It pollinates all female A. deliciosa varieties. A. arguta ‘Issai’ For those UK residents who want to grow Kiwis but whose location makes growing traditional Fuzzy Kiwis a fraught undertaking. On the other hand, even if you live in Cornwall you may want to grow ‘Issai’ simply because you prefer the smaller, sweeter, non-fuzzy fruit of Hardy Kiwis. Be that as it may, this cultivar is so super-hardy that it can be grown in Norway. It is a very high-yielding vine, producing nearly a thousand fruits per season. On top of that, this is a self-fertile variety. References 1. Chinese gooseberry becomes kiwifruit. (1959, June 15). New Zealand History Online. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://nzhistory.govt.nz/the-chinese-gooseberry-becomes-the-kiwifruit 2. Actinidia chinensis var. deliciosa. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:60458895-2 3. Mahr, S. (n.d.-d). Kiwi fruit. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/kiwifruit-actinidia-spp/ 4. Gao, G., Slaughter, R., & Sherman, B. (2020, May 28). Kiwifruit and Hardy Kiwi (Kiwiberries). Ohioline. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-1426
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