Growing
What Research Studies Tell Us Are The Best Plants To Repel Unwanted Insects
IN THIS GUIDE Insect Repellent Studies 1) Lemon Balm 2) Lemongrass 3) Lavender 4) Rosemary 5) Bee Balm 6) Bay Leaves 7) Garlic 8) Mugwort 9) Alliums 10) Marigolds 11) Nasturtiums 12) Lemon Scented Eucalyptus 13) Catmint 14) Peppermint 15) Petunia 16) Geranium 17) Pitcher Plant Good riddance, we hope References As gardeners, our relationship with insects can be complicated. On the one hand, bees and butterflies are a beautiful and life-giving presence in our green oases. On the other hand, though, are slugs, snails, mosquitoes, aphids, and various other pests waiting enthusiastically on the sidelines, ready to wreak havoc at a moment’s notice. If you’re at your wits end with slimy critters munching on your plants, aphids sucking the sap from your leaves, and mozzies sucking the sap from you every time you dare try to relax in your garden, then this guide is for you. Insect Repellent Studies There have actually been a number of notable studies into which plants are most effective at deterring insects. These include: Malaria Journal1 American Botanical Council2 Across these studies there is some consensus as to the plants that are most effective at repelling pesky insects such as mosquitos and flies – and we’ve rounded these up below. (If you want to attract more bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, check out our post on the best plants to attract bees). 1) Lemon Balm This bushy herb smells like – you guessed it – lemon. And as you may know, citrus smell – more specifically the chemical compound citronellal – is a deterrent for mosquitoes (that’s why lots of gardening shops sell citronella candles!).3 2) Lemongrass Here’s another plant high in citronellal, which mosquitoes simply will not abide. Also being near lemongrass should protect you somewhat from the mosquitoes’ probing proboscis. See this guide for more plants that mosquitos specifically dislike! 3) Lavender This popular purple plant has the combined benefits of deterring mosquitoes while attracting bees. On top of that, it’s attractive to look at and wonderful to smell – whenever I pass my lavender plants I rub a couple of sprigs and dab the scent onto my forehead for a little burst of relaxation. 4) Rosemary This familiar herb has supposed repellent properties, whether you’re sitting in close proximity or rubbing the oil onto your skin. With the latter, it may be a little strange dabbing a scent onto your skin that’s more readily associated with a leg of lamb, but worry not. The absence of mosquitoes is a worthy swap. If you grow rosemary as part of a herb garden, you’ll be interested to know that other herbs like mint, oregano, and basil also have reported anti-mosquito effects. So if you’d rather smell like a mojito, a plate of pasta, or some really nice pesto, you’re in luck. 5) Bee Balm These distinctive, neon-pink flowers are another plant renowned for their ability to drive away pests, while inviting in desirable garden visitors like bees (hence the name) and butterflies. Bee balm also goes by the name of bergamot, and if you’ve ever used that really fancy hand soap they sometimes have in posh restaurants, you’ll know just how good it can smell. This means that growing the plant for its own merit is an inviting prospect, and the resulting absence of mosquitoes can be considered an added bonus. 6) Bay Leaves Do you like curry? If so, you’ve probably had the unpleasant experience of biting into a bay leaf that’s not been removed before serving. The flavour is great when worked through a sauce, but not so great when you bite down onto the papery texture bursting with full pungency. This pungency, though, is the exact property that’s of interest in discouraging flies from spending any more time with you. Simply scatter a handful of leaves (fresh or dried!) onto a nearby surface and, fingers crossed, you should be left in peace. 7) Garlic Handy in the kitchen and a worthwhile deterrent – this easy-to-grow plant is well worth growing for its plethora of applications. Use it as a companion plant to protect any garden growth that is attracting unwanted insect attention! 8) Mugwort While this plant may sound like something straight out of a witch’s pantry, its scent is a renowned repellent for moths, mosquitoes, and various other flying critters. It’s thought to be so effective, in fact, that some cultures gather dried sections of mugwort and burn them in clumps. The resulting smoke is apparently quite good at getting rid of any nearby insects. 9) Alliums Sometimes you can grow two plants near each other, one of which is famously attractive to humans and the other of which has a natural ability to repel common pests of the first. Alliums and roses are a fine example of such a partnership: grow some alliums near to your prize roses, and their natural scent (which humans can’t detect) will deter aphids, one of the most persistent threats to a healthy rose crop. 10) Marigolds These gorgeous yellow-orange flowers are a common choice for gardeners, and are also naturally repellent to aphids, mosquitoes, and various other bugs. Our favourite plants are those that are a pleasure to behold while also performing some useful function in the garden, and marigolds definitely tick both boxes. 11) Nasturtiums Another plant that falls neatly into the combined bucket of being attractive and useful is the humble nasturtium. A treat to behold, and a guaranteed conversation starter thanks to their peppery taste and suitability for human consumption, these flowers also possess the natural ability to drive away pests – triple whammy! Nasturtiums are able to deter flies, whiteflies, beetles, and many others. They can also be used as a sacrificial plant to lure aphids away from crops. They’re a great choice for protecting nearby plants from unwanted visitations and will make a fine addition to your garden. 12) Lemon Scented Eucalyptus 13) Catmint “Catmint is loved by cats and hated by mosquitoes,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “The two things may be connected, as scientists have shown that cats are drawn into the euphoria created by the fragrance of the very nepetalactol that helps defend them from mosquito bites.”4 14) Peppermint 15) Petunia 16) Geranium 17) Pitcher Plant “The pitcher plant feeds off flies as its roots cannot access the nutrients it needs in waterlogged soils,” says Peter. “There’s always more to plants’ relationships with insects than we first think.” Good riddance, we hope There you go: eighteen plants that should reduce the number of bugs bothering you and your gardening endeavours, and that have the added benefit of being attractive and useful additions to your garden. Whether you go for the herbs whose aromatic properties will be a boon to your culinary exploits, or the pretty flowers like marigolds and alliums that will make a stunning contribution to flowerbeds and plant displays, you’ve got plenty of options to work with. And remember to check out the Plants for Pollinators scheme if you want to attract more of the bees, butterflies, and other pollinators that make a positive contribution to your garden.5 You can also read about the benefits of wildflower corridors in protecting vulnerable insect populations from harm or even extinction: a great way to remind yourself that not all insects are bad, and that some actively need our help to thrive!6 References 1. Maia, M. F., & Moore, S. J. (2011). Plant-based insect repellents: a review of their efficacy, development and testing. Malaria Journal, 10(S1). https://doi.org/10.1186/1475-2875-10-s1-s11 2. Smith, T. (n.d.). Plant-Based Insect Repellents Provide an Alternative to Synthetic Formulas. American Botanical Council. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.herbalgram.org/resources/herbalgram/issues/98/table-of-contents/hg98feat-insectrepellents/ 3. Du, E. J., Ahn, T. H., Choi, M. G., Kwon, I., Kim, H., Kwon, J. Y., & Kang, K. (2015). The Mosquito Repellent Citronellal Directly Potentiates Drosophila TRPA1, Facilitating Feeding Suppression. Molecules and Cells, 38(10), 911–917. https://doi.org/10.14348/molcells.2015.0215 4. Uenoyama, R., Miyazaki, T., Hurst, J. L., Beynon, R. J., Adachi, M., Murooka, T., Onoda, I., Miyazawa, Y., Katayama, R., Yamashita, T., Kaneko, S., Nishikawa, T., & Miyazaki, M. (2021, January 22). The characteristic response of domestic cats to plant iridoids allows them to gain chemical defense against mosquitoes. Science Advances. Retrieved August 7, 2023, from https://doi.org/10.1126/sciadv.abd9135 5. Plants for Pollinators advice and downloadable lists. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/science/conservation-biodiversity/wildlife/plants-for-pollinators 6. Benjamin, A. (2020, July 12). Making a beeline: wildflower paths across UK could save species. The Guardian. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2020/jul/12/making-a-beeline-wildflower-paths-across-uk-could-save-species
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These Herbs Don't Need Loads Of Sun! 16 Choices That Grow Well In Shade
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Parsley 2) Coriander 3) Chives 4) Golden Oregano 5) Mint 6) Angelica 7) Miner’s Lettuce 8) Chervil 9) Lemon Balm 10) Bay 11) Tarragon 12) Hops 13) Sweet Cicely 14) Dill 15) Sorrel 16) Lovage Herb is the word Herbs are great. For some of us, they’re the gateway into gardening proper: an opportunity to grow a few plants that are fairly easy and have practical uses that make them feel worthwhile. For others, they’re an integral part of any home garden. Whatever your relationship with or experience of growing herbs, though, knowing which ones will grow well in the shade is a useful bit of knowledge to have on standby. Some plants prefer shade to sun. And you know what? That’s OK. Plants that prefer shade are ideal for those of us with limited space to grow things. If you’ve got a small garden surrounded by structures, for example – or if your only outdoor space is a balcony facing in a direction that doesn’t give it much sunlight. In these situations, choosing plants that do best in the shade is a way to satisfy your gardening urge without needing to relocate. So, with that in mind, here are sixteen herbs that will grow well in the shade: 1) Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: BIENNIAL GROWN AS AN ANNUAL Perhaps most famous in bygone decades as a classy garnish for pretty much any fish dish, parsley is enjoying something of a renaissance now. This humble green herb goes well in pesto, chimichurri, and various other exciting sauces and accompaniments. Parsley will grow well in the shade and will do even better with a fortnightly dose of a balanced fertiliser. You can sow parsley from March through to June, plant out from May through to July, and harvest from June onwards. Sowing staggered batches will ensure a longer growing season, allowing you to enjoy more parsley fresh from the plant. 2) Coriander BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL If you’re one of the lucky people who don’t carry the gene that makes coriander taste like soap, then growing your own is practically obligatory. Whether you pop a sprig on top of a nice plate of curry, make a flavour-rich coriander sauce, or anything else, this herb is of almost inexhaustible use in your kitchen. This herb will do well in the shade, and likes damp soil (too dry, and the plant may bolt). You can sow coriander from June through September, and harvest from July onwards. Again, staggered sowing will give you a staggered crop. 3) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL These long thin herbs have a fantastic flavour, making them a fine addition to an array of recipes. Wherever you want a flavour reminiscent of onion but without quite as much punch, a sprinkling of chives will do the trick. And what’s more, their flowers are highly appealing to bees, bringing a little extra wildlife to your garden. Chives grow well in containers and in the ground, and will be quite happy without much direct sunlight. Sow in March or April, plant out the following month, then expect to harvest from July to September. And keep in mind that you can still eat chives if they’ve flowered! 4) Golden Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL There are several types of oregano, some of which sport yellow leaves that are prone to being scorched by the hot midday sun. This makes them particularly well suited to being grown in the shade. Oregano has got to be one of our favourite herbs, if only for the distinctive flavour and the incomparable contributions it makes to Italian and Mediterranean cooking. If you like these flavours – sundried tomatoes, garlic, onion, olives, and so on – then a homegrown supply of oregano will revolutionise your kitchen. Sow oregano between February and March, staggering batches if you want to extend the harvesting season (May through October). Plant out your sown seeds between April and July. This herb likes regular watering, but be careful not to let the soil stay too damp, as this will damage the roots. 5) Mint BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha HARDINESS RATING: H5-H7 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL Whether you’re growing mint for the sole purposes of more authentic mojitos, or you have less luxurious plans for the herb, we recommend having a supply on standby. The gentle flavour provided by a mint plant is so much better fresh, and you’ll be surprised at how many uses it has. An accompaniment for meats, for example, whether as a garnish or sauce. Or an exotic variation on tea (mint, sugar, hot water, and you’re good to go). If you’re growing mint in the ground, the received wisdom is to bury it in pots rather than plant directly. This keeps the adventurous root system in check, reducing the risk of the plant monopolising all available space. Plant your mint in March through May, and harvest from May through October. 6) Angelica Such dainty bushels you’ve got BOTANICAL NAME: Angelica archangelica HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL Here we move onto the herbs which, for most of us at least, may be a little less familiar. It’s unlikely you’ll find angelica amongst the living herb plants in your local supermarket, for example. For us, this is the benchmark of whether or not a herb has made it into the mainstream. Angelica is worth getting acquainted with, though. Beneath this plant’s striking bushels are stems that can be candied, stewed, and more. Angelica is famously useful in baking, too, and its seeds can be put to great use in delivering its distinctive flavour. Sow this herb in autumn or late spring, directly into the soil. Then harvest in the spring or as and when required. 7) Miner’s Lettuce BOTANICAL NAME: Claytonia perfoliata HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL Here we have another herb still waiting on the C-List while its friends climb the ladder and mingle with the A-Listers. But lack of fame doesn’t mean this herb doesn’t have something to offer. In fact, in bygone days the leaves and stems of this plant provided a reliable source of salad greens for miners. If you want to get to know this herb, a shady spot will make a fine home for it. Sow from early spring, using staggered sowings to extend the harvest season. Then pick what you need in the summer and autumn months. Sometimes it is grown in greenhouses to enable harvesting even in winter! 8) Chervil BOTANICAL NAME: Anthriscus cerefolium HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL / BIENNIAL 9) Lemon Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Melissa officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 10) Bay BOTANICAL NAME: Laurus nobilis HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 11) Tarragon BOTANICAL NAME: Artemisia dracunculus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 12) Hops BOTANICAL NAME: Humulus lupulus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 13) Sweet Cicely BOTANICAL NAME: Myrrhis odorata HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 14) Dill BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL / BIENNIAL 15) Sorrel BOTANICAL NAME: Rumex acetosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 16) Lovage BOTANICAL NAME: Levisticum officinale HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL Herb is the word There you have it: sixteen herbs that will grow nicely in a shady spot, putting to bed the idea that you can only have a viable herb garden if you’re blessed with a bright, sunny garden or outside space. We firmly believe that gardening should be accessible to and enjoyable for everyone, regardless of the space they’ve got to work with. While some of the most popular herbs require sun, we think the selection above is indicative of the variety available to you if you’re growing in the shade. “Shade can alter plant growth, sometimes for the better, as you may find you have to spend less time keeping up with the watering,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Some herbs will also produce larger leaves to maximise light uptake. “However, the growth may also be softer in the shade, so regular pruning and harvesting are often beneficial. That also sounds like a win! “Remember, though, that very soft growth can be a boon for pests and diseases. “Luckily, these herbs are better at coping with some level of shade, so any problems are most likely found in the deep year-round shade.” We hope you find something suitably exciting and delicious, and that you enjoy the process of researching, growing and harvesting.
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6 Ways To Get Rid Of An Ants’ Nest In Your Garden (And Why You Should Think Twice)
IN THIS GUIDE Are Ants In The Garden A Problem? Ants – A Balanced View When To Get Rid Of An Ants’ Nest Facts To Bear In Mind 1) Boiling Water 2) White Vinegar 3) Diatomaceous Earth 4) Boric Acid & Sugar 5) Nematode Steinernema feltiae 6) Ant Bait Stations Goodbye Garden Ants! References It is not exactly unusual to have ants, or even an ants’ nest, in your yard. In fact, ants perform multiple beneficial functions in the garden. That said, there are some legitimate reasons to eradicate an ants’ nest, particularly if you have a problem with aphids or similar pests. We lay out half-a-dozen methods, from plain old water to highly-technical nematode release. Are Ants In The Garden A Problem? So you have an ants’ nest in your garden. Before you go ballistic and take out the heavy artillery, let’s take a minute or two to evaluate whether the ants are an actual problem and need to be taken care of, and, if so, choose a solution that fits the scale of the problem and will do no or minimal collateral damage. Ants in the yard are, well, normal. That doesn’t mean you have to have them in your garden if you don’t want to, it’s just to get across that there’s nothing particularly unusual about having ants in your garden. You may be concerned because you know about an ants’ nest in your garden. But many, many homeowners have ants’ nests in their respective gardens – but they don’t even know about the problem and so the ‘problem’ is not a problem. So where an ants’ nest is concerned, perhaps ignorance is bliss. If you know you have an ants’ nest in your garden, we’d recommend you only get rid of it if you also know that the ants are damaging your garden. Ants – A Balanced View The purpose of this article is not to elaborate upon the benefits that ants can and do bring in the garden. However, so that you can make a fully informed decision as to that ants’ nest, before we proceed to outline the ways to get rid of it, a concise outline as to the beneficial effects of these tiny insects. Ants, as such and under normal circumstances, are not garden pests. For the most part they are teeny-weeny ‘garden hands’. To begin with, they are natural-born tillers of the soil. Their incessant subterranean activity results in particulate matter from the surface being pulled underneath, deep down, and vice versa, improving the fertility of the soil.1 Also, their tunnelling into and through the soil aerates it which assists in the decomposition of organic matter – dry leaves and dead earthworms alike. Though ants are scavengers in the main, many UK species are also predators. Many, if not most, species of ants actually control or reduce the population of garden pests because they prey on their larvae and eggs.2 Ants are territorial insects so as long as your garden has one ant colony you won’t be getting another one unless an invading troop attacks and defeats the resident ants.3 On the other hand, if you destroy or ‘evict’ your garden’s resident ants, then sooner or later advance scouts or a roaming ant colony will come upon your yard, see it as virgin territory ripe for occupation, and lay down stakes! Also keep in mind that ants play a part in a healthy garden ecosystem. While they prey on various small garden pests, they themselves are preyed upon by small birds, fish and other insects. Getting rid of an entire ant colony can throw that healthy garden ecosystem out of whack. Believe it or not, there are yet more reasons to tolerate an ants’ nest in the yard but, like we said, this article is not about the positives of ants in the garden! “I have never had to eliminate an ants nest as a horticulturist,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Nests would rarely be large enough to cause a problem in the garden in the UK context. “The only time I have removed an ants nest would be when they have become a problem in the built environment, particularly entering kitchen spaces to take advantage of a supply of crumbs, sugar, etc.” When To Get Rid Of An Ants’ Nest So why, under what circumstances, would it be the right decision to get rid of an ants’ nest? First – are the ants ruining your landscaping and depositing piles of soil on the lawn? Is the ants’ nest tucked away by the fence or is it an eyesore? Is it getting bigger and bigger? If the answers are ‘Yes,’ the affirmatives answer the bigger question too. Second – if the ants’ nest is near shrubs and plants that have delicate roots or those that are wilting without any discernible reason, then the ants’ nest may have to go. Though subsoil ant activity is a good thing in general, when it is below or beside delicate roots, it can disturb them and affect their uptake of soil nutrients. Third – does your garden have an aphid problem that you can’t get under control? Or a mealybug or whitefly problem? If yes, then you may need to get rid of the ants’ nest. That’s because ants and aphids often work together; they have a symbiotic relationship. Just as supply ships victual the Navy while being protected by destroyers, so do aphids provide food to ants, and in turn are protected by them. The same goes for mealybugs and whiteflies. Concisely, aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies as honeydew-producing garden pests are of value to ants because these pests provide sustenance to ants: ants gather the honeydew that these pests secrete and take it to their nest, mainly for the queen but also for the colony.4 This means that if you release ladybirds or lacewings to destroy aphids, mealybugs or whiteflies, your efforts may come to naught because the ants will protect the garden pests (as they are well known to do). If you make the decision to destroy an ants’ nest, be aware that its actual size underground will be far larger, probably some multiple, of the size you may estimate by what is visible on the surface. Facts To Bear In Mind There are 51 native ant species in the UK.5 The most commonly found ones are black ants (Lasius niger), yellow meadow ants (Lasius flavus), red ants (Myrmica rubra) and wood ants (Formica rufa). These different ant species have different levels of resistance and susceptibility to the ant-control methods outlined underneath. Therefore, if one method does not work, do not be discouraged but try another one. Avoid trying to mix and match methods as one method may attenuate the efficacy of the other – choose one method and stick with it until it succeeds or fails. Most of the well-known commercial insecticides and applications for reducing the presence of ants are formulated for use in dwellings and other buildings. These are not meant for use in the garden and may well cause damage to plant life. Also, though these applications will certainly kill ants in exposed locations then (except for ant bait stations) they will not be of any effect in eliminating an ants’ nest. 1) Boiling Water Boiling water is a well-known ant-killer but, for obvious reasons, this is not a solution for the lawn or close to plant life. If the ants’ nest is a metre or so away from the lawn or from the estimated extremity of the root system of the nearest plant, pour boiling water – bucketfuls – on the nest and into all the holes you can see; if not, then douse the ants’ nest with bucketfuls of cold water every day or two (unless succulents or such are nearby!). You could also run water – lots of it – through the hosepipe and jet it into all the entry/exit holes that you can spot. Ants dislike damp conditions, and may soon decide to shift to a more congenial neighbourhood. 2) White Vinegar White vinegar is another well-known ant-killer which – unlike boiling water – will not harm plant life. It is the mild acid in white vinegar that is the knockout agent. How, though, to deliver the vinegar where it counts – in the nest? Fill a jet washer or jet spray machine with white vinegar and shoot it into the ants’ nest’s entry holes. If you cannot spot them, then spray it all around the ants’ nest, surrounding and soaking it with white vinegar. You will have to do this several times but the net result will be the elimination of nearly the whole colony with the survivors hightailing it for less inhospitable nesting grounds. 3) Diatomaceous Earth Sprinkle food-grade diatomaceous earth all around the ants’ nest, especially where you spot the entry holes. Try to get it inside of the holes. Diatomaceous earth will kill the ants, but there’s a catch: it will also kill other insects and may also kill small garden life like amphibians. That is because the microscopic razor-sharp edges of diatomaceous earth abrade insect exoskeletons and also dehydrate insects and small animal life.6 Damp and wet conditions greatly degrade the potency of diatomaceous earth so be sure to use it when the earth and the weather are both dry. This ant control technique is in the main an effective one for all types of ants and though it will not eliminate an ants’ nest it will at least keep reducing the ant population. 4) Boric Acid & Sugar This is the original ‘bait station’ technique that has been used by farmers and country gardeners for generations. Do not use this method in conjunction with any other. Make a mixture of sugar (preferably icing sugar) and boric acid powder in a ratio of 8 parts sugar to 1 part boric acid. Mix this in bottled water so as to form a gooey liquid with the consistency of treacle or honey. Do not use tap water as impurities in it could put off the ants from consuming the bait – or the minerals or ions in tap water could react with the boric acid and neutralise its potency. Drop and spread this thick gooey concoction on and around the ants’ nest, particularly at the holes. Keep doing so every couple of days. Worker ants will take this toxic mix into the nest for the queen and the rest of the colony. 5) Nematode Steinernema feltiae Steinernema feltiae are microscopic organisms that act as a ‘slow poison’ on an ant colony. These nematodes enter the insects’ body cavities and then release bacteria, which destroy tissue and poison the ants.7 The variables are that there are a few different brands of this nematode and several different species of ants. One brand may deliver excellent results with one species while failing with another species. These nematode formulations have to be used within a week or two of delivery, have to be mixed very precisely with water, and must not be applied in sunlight or under extreme temperatures. Also, they are most effective between April and September. One plus point of this method is that these nematodes act against most pests that are destructive to plant life but are harmless to beneficial predators as well as to plant life. 6) Ant Bait Stations Ant bait stations are so constructed that ants, attracted to the enticing bait inside the plastic structure, can get in and out while other soil-dwelling insects are either not interested or cannot enter the precisely-fabricated station. Worker ants collect the toxic bait, usually in gel form, and take it back to the nest for the queen and the rest of the colony.8 As the appetising bait contains some or another potent poison, the ants start to die. The few ants that remain cannot sustain the colony, which collapses. Bait stations can be placed by the entry holes of the nest or along foraging pathways. Goodbye Garden Ants! Eliminating an ants’ nest is not an exact science (and it is certainly not an art). It is a trial-and-error process. If you have decided to get rid of an ants’ nest, the important thing is to approach it as a difficult project that will require sustained work. As a last resort, you can call in professional exterminators but do not get discouraged too quickly, and be persistent. References 1. Farji-Brener, A. G., & Werenkaut, V. (2017). The effects of ant nests on soil fertility and plant performance: a meta-analysis. Journal of Animal Ecology, 86(4), 866–877. https://doi.org/10.1111/1365-2656.12672 2. Ye, Y. (2019, March 12). Ant larvae defend their homes by eating eggs laid by intruders. New Scientist. Retrieved June 3, 2023, from https://www.newscientist.com/article/2195765-ant-larvae-defend-their-homes-by-eating-eggs-laid-by-intruders/ 3. Hölldobler, B., & Lumsden, C. J. (1980). Territorial Strategies in Ants. Science, 210(4471), 732–739. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.210.4471.732 4. Farmer ants and their aphid herds. (n.d.). McGill Office for Science and Society. Retrieved June 3, 2023, from https://www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/did-you-know/farmer-ants-and-their-aphid-herds 5. Ant recording and identification. (n.d.). NatureSpot. Retrieved June 3, 2023, from https://www.naturespot.org.uk/ant_recording_ID 6. Zeni, V., Baliota, G. V., Benelli, G., Canale, A., & Athanassiou, C. G. (2021). Diatomaceous Earth for Arthropod Pest Control: Back to the Future. Molecules, 26(24), 7487. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26247487 7. Insect-Parasitic Nematodes for the Management of Soil-Dwelling Insects. (n.d.). Penn State Extension. Retrieved June 3, 2023, from https://extension.psu.edu/insect-parasitic-nematodes-for-the-management-of-soil-dwelling-insects 8. Tips for Effective Ant Baiting. (n.d.). NC State Extension Publications. Retrieved June 3, 2023, from https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/tips-for-effective-ant-baiting
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'It's Neither Melon Nor Cucumber' - How To Grow Cucamelons For Their Interesting Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Indoors Or Outdoors? How To Grow Cucamelon Plant Care Harvesting Cucamelon Common Problems References Though rising sharply in recognition, Central American Cucamelon is still an exotic rarity in the UK. This fast-growing disease-free climbing vine has attractive heart-shaped leaves, buttery-yellow flowers, and bears seriously cute teeny-weeny ‘mouse melons’. Somewhat cucumber-like and citrusy, they are crunchy and zesty raw, and impart a tangy taste to salads and salsas. What’s more, this plant provides a very ornamental ‘wall cover’. This fruiting vine is a head-turner – for sure, in the ranks of garden exotica, Central American Cucamelon is way up there. Overview Botanical Name Melothria scabra Common Name(s) Cucamelon, Mexican Sour Gherkin, Mouse Melon Plant Type Fruit / Vegetable / Climber Native Area Central America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Deciduous; lobed heart-shaped leaves Flowers Yellow When To Sow (Indoors) April, May Harvesting Months July, August, September As the fruit resembles a doll’s house melon in appearance while being similar to cucumbers in taste, you would likely think that Cucamelon is a cross between the two. Well, surprise! – it is neither melon nor cucumber. Cucamelon or Melothria scabra belongs to a genus of flowering vines. As it happens, M. scabra bears an edible (and very ornamental) fruit. However, Genus Melothria does fall under Family Cucurbitaceae which includes both cucumbers and melons. So maybe there’s something there!1 Cucamelon is known by various names, these being Mexican Sour Gherkin, Mexican Sour Cucumber, Mouse Melon, and ‘Sandita’ – Little Melon in Spanish. M. scabra is a deciduous fast-growing climber that will attain a height of 1-1.5M if grown as an annual, and 3M+ if grown as a perennial (by storing it dormant over the winter in the UK). The flowers, at only about 4mm, are nothing spectacular but are cheery in their own right – they are flat with five splayed petals and of a bright, buttery yellow. M. scabra is monoecious which means that the flowers (on the same plant) are either male or female.2 The male and female flowers of a monoecious plant pollinate amongst themselves. Among Cucamelon’s noteworthy attributes are that it is among the most pest-resistant and disease-free of vines, is fairly drought-resistant, and is very productive, even prolific. Habitat & Growing Conditions ‘Sandita’ grows in nature in a swath of land from Mexico down to Venezuela including most, though not all, regions of Central America.3 In its native range, it thrives in hot weather with temperatures hovering between 30-35°C. In its own habitat Cucamelon is a deciduous perennial though in British climes it is usually treated as an annual and that’s because it is frost-tender, hardy only to Zone H1C. That doesn’t mean you have to grow it as an annual; this vine can carefully be stored in a dormant state for the winter and re-planted in spring. Indoors Or Outdoors? As a bona fide two-for-one deal, Cucamelon climber not only serves up tasty treats, it also delivers ornamental bang-for-buck to the garden. While this Central American native must be grown in a sheltered location where it enjoys full sun, its ‘garden status’ as an interesting ornamental suggests that it should be in a position where it can see and be seen. “Although I’ve grown Cucamelon outdoors, it has only thrived in a polytunnel where the higher temperatures suit it far more than the vagaries of a UK summer,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The fruits are good to use in cocktails!” Though the straightforward and practical thing to do is to have this climbing vine run up a trellis or tomato cage, to take advantage of its decorative value grow it against the latticework of a summer house, or climbing up a shed or even a wall of your house. You could twine it around the post of a pergola. However, keep in mind that if it is tightly coiled around any upright, removing this delicate vine in late autumn for dormant storage will be very difficult; in such a case Cucamelon will have to be treated as an annual. Though harvesting and maintenance would be difficult, you could grow these vines in hanging baskets so that they cascade over and down the rim for another type of aesthetic appeal. How To Grow Cucamelon The popularity of Cucamelon is on the rise but it is certainly not a plant that you can walk into your neighbourhood nursery and expect to find. Nurseries that sell potted plants or bare-root vines are still few and far between. However, you will surely find some if you search online. The best option is to buy Cucamelon seeds – these are much more readily available, both at garden centres and also online. Though Cucamelon vines take their own sweet time to germinate, they are not particularly difficult to grow and care for, so seeds are really the way to go. Growing From Seed Cucamelon needs to be started indoors in the UK. About four weeks before the last predicted frost date for your location is the ideal time. Seeds should be sown in potting mix (which would include compost) in pots. Consider using biodegradable pots to make transplanting easy and risk-free as young Cucamelon roots are tender, and disturbance or damage may affect the growth and yield of the vine, or even kill it. Push seeds all the way into the soil with the pointed end facing up, one per pot. You’ll need to grow several of these vines to produce attractive ornamental cover and to yield a good harvest so plan on starting at least six, preferably a dozen, seedlings keeping in mind that you will likely lose a few. Germinate, and grow the seedlings indoors or in a greenhouse such that they get full sun and at a soil temperature of around 23-24°C. Though Cucamelon is a very fast grower after it is up and running, it takes rather a long time to get up and running! Be prepared to water patiently for two to three weeks while the seeds germinate. Optimal soil temperature will markedly speed up germination – as the seedlings grow, reduce the temperature to 20-21°C. Transplanting After there is no chance of frost it is time to transplant the vines outdoors. However, in the UK it would be prudent to harden them for a week to ten days before transplanting. If you grew your Cucamelons in biodegradable pots the job will be much easier and free of both any stress or risk. Space the growing vines 20-30cm apart. If you want to grow Cucamelon in regions of the UK where the weather is particularly cold or unpredictable, consider doing so in a planter big enough for a vine plus a support framework. This will give you the flexibility to shift the plant as the vagaries of the weather may dictate. Plant Care Soil Requirements The soil can be clay, loam or sand as long as it is free-draining. Though a soil pH from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline will do just fine, the ideal soil pH for Cucamelon is slightly acidic. The location in the garden should enjoy full sun but should also be sheltered from the wind. Feeding About ten days after transplanting you may fertilise the climber with a 5-10-10 vegetable fertiliser, especially if the soil is not very fertile. However, do not fertilise these sensitive vines as you would tomatoes or melons; apply fertiliser lightly and sparingly. Watering Water the vines moderately twice a week such that the soil stays moist but not wet. Water at soil level, not on the foliage. A drip system will be very suitable for this plant. Mulching around the vines, though not necessary, will be helpful, as it will deter weeds and also retain moisture. Plant Support Cucamelon need a support structure on which they can climb otherwise they will spread and creep untidily along the ground, with the attendant risk of slugs and rodents having an easy time with your fruit, and the fruit getting dirty or contaminated as well. Furthermore, such a support structure is also essential to maximise the decorative appeal of Cucamelon climbing vines. Practical options include a support structure of cane or bamboo, a trellis, or a tomato cage. Overwintering After the vine has ceased to bear fruit by late autumn, you can preserve your plant to flower again next spring. Gently disentwine the climber from the support structure, and remove it from the soil taking care not to damage the main fleshy root. Keep the root system in only slightly moist compost and store for the winter in an above-ground room such as a shed that will be protected from frost. In mid-spring, plant the vine outdoors again. Fertilise it a week or ten days after planting it out. Harvesting Cucamelon Cucamelon vines will produce fruit from mid-summer to mid-autumn. Fruits form at the base of the female flowers. Timing is important in picking these fruits so that they’re at their best. Cucamelon must be harvested early, as soon as it is ready. Sure, you don’t want to pick these fruits when they’re pea-sized but you don’t want to delay either, otherwise they lose that light, refreshing, and succulent mouthfeel and become tough or dense and unenjoyable, and also develop large seeds. So how do you know just when to pick Cucamelons? The fruit will form just below the flower, which will wither as the fruit develops. The fruit is ready for picking when it is right around an inch long and firm – neither hard nor soft – and there is no more flower. Guideline aside, it’s really not a great mystery – a little experimentation and you’ll have it down within days. What you do need to do without fail is that after the flowers appear, monitor the vines for pickable fruit every other day or even on a daily basis. Snip off the fruits with a pair of secateurs; avoid trying to pull them off as the vines are delicate. Harvesting will go very smoothly if you have those secateurs in one hand and a bowl in the other. You can store Cucamelons in the fridge’s crisper but for no more than three or four days. Common Problems Cucamelon vine is well known to be pest-resistant and disease-free. On occasion, a vine may get powdery mildew or aphids. Powdery mildew can be avoided by watering at soil level and ensuring that the plant is not closed-in by trees, other plants, or structures so that it can enjoy good air circulation. Though aphids only infrequently attack Cucamelon, they are among the most dangerous of pests as they are hard to control because of how very rapidly they breed. You can either get and release ladybugs and lacewings at the site of the infestation or clean it and spray it with insecticidal soap, which is an organic product. Do not attempt both methods in conjunction because soap will put off ladybugs and lacewings. References 1. Melothria. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30043481-2 2. Melothria scabra. (n.d.). School of Horticulture Plant Database. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plantdatabase.kpu.ca/plant/plantDetail/1774 3. S. (n.d.-f). Mouse Melon or Mexican Sour Cucumber, Melothria scabra. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/mouse-melon-or-mexican-sour-cucumber-melothria-scabra/
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Overgrown Ivy Can Become Problematic - Consider These Ideas To Control Its Growth
IN THIS GUIDE How Does Ivy Work? Tolerating Ivy When Ivy Becomes Problematic First – How Not To Get Rid Of Ivy How To Kill Overgrown Ivy Advice From A Master Horticulturist References Ivy is famous for its ability to climb, whether on rocks, structures, or even other trees. The roots of the word ivy come from a proto-Indo-European word that translates as “to grasp”, making it a very good and apt description of the plant’s tendency to take hold and go wild. Ivy is prone to grow in a surprising array of places How Does Ivy Work? Ivy grows on the ground until it finds a suitable surface to climb. At this point, a surprisingly complicated process kicks into action. For many years botanists thought that ivy created a glue-like substance to attach itself to surfaces, but it actually goes a lot deeper.1 Firstly, the plant comes into contact with the surface it will climb. Then, the roots change shape to fit the surface. At this stage, the roots aim to expand outwards as much as possible; increasing the amount of contact they have with the surface in question. Then, a glue-like substance is excreted, and small hairs on the root fit into tiny holes on the surface. When they dry out, they scrunch up and lock themselves firmly into the crevice. With this process taking place many times on each surface, ivy builds a strong attachment that can be hard to dislodge. Because of the way the mechanism works, it keeps a strong hold even when the plant is dead, too, meaning that you can’t simply kill the plant and pull it down. So, with that in mind, you may be wondering how to kill and get rid of overgrown ivy? Tolerating Ivy Let’s start with something a little less drastic. Here we’ll outline the times and places that ivy can be tolerated. The first step here is busting the myth that ivy strangles the trees it grows on, hindering their ability to grow. It doesn’t.2 Unlike parasitic plants like mistletoe, ivy only uses trees for support, rather than penetrating their bark and leeching resources.3 Ivy has its own root system beneath the ground, and gets the water and nutrients it requires from there. So seeing ivy crawling up a tree trunk isn’t an automatic cause for concern. Instead, keep an eye on things and see how they progress. When Ivy Becomes Problematic If ivy starts to smother a tree trunk or prevent light from making its way through the canopy, it can be problematic. This can hinder the photosynthesis of the leaves whose light is being blocked, which prevents the tree from generating its required nutrients. It can also be an issue when it comes to evaluating a tree for safety, as ivy can cover up structural damage, making it harder to see what’s going on underneath. If you’ve got ivy growing on an old tree that’s more prone to damage, you may want to consider removing it so that the tree’s health can be accurately assessed. Ivy also has the potential to hold fungal spores that may cause damage to the tree underneath. Some rodents and pests shelter in ivy as well, leading to another potential source of strife for the tree. First – How Not To Get Rid Of Ivy One thing you should never do is just grab ivy from a tree trunk and give it a good, hard yank. As we mentioned earlier, ivy has a very sophisticated means of attaching itself to surfaces, meaning that if you just grab and pull, it’s quite likely that you’ll strip some of the bark along with the ivy. Removing bark from trees exposes the tissue underneath, making it much more vulnerable to attack and infection. See how many different attachment points there are? If you’ve got ivy that you’re concerned is causing damage and needs to go, here are a few ways to remove it. How To Kill Overgrown Ivy The steps for removal differ slightly depending on where the ivy is growing. In this section, we’ll give instructions for removing ivy on walls, trees, and the ground. Ivy Growing On Walls We’ll start by emphasising that ivy doesn’t cause damage to sound masonry. This means that if your brickwork is in good condition, the mechanism ivy uses to cling and grow will not cause damage. If this is the main reason you’re considering removing the ivy, you may want to reconsider. If not, here’s what you need to do – Try non-weedkiller control methods first, as they’re usually more forgiving on the environment. Cut stems back as close to ground level as possible, and dig out the woody stump at the base of the ivy plant. This isn’t always possible; it depends on where the ivy is growing. If you can’t get to it, trimming can help keep things is in check but is unlikely to kill the plant. If this doesn’t work, sever the stem and use a weed killer designed specifically for stumps and roots. Often these are based on chemicals like glyphosate or triclopyr. Be careful when using weedkillers as the chemicals involved are very potent. When the ivy has been successfully killed, you can peel the plant from the walls and surfaces it’s grown on. Again, be careful as the tendrils are still anchored in fairly firmly. Pull gently and don’t be afraid to switch to a brush or scraper if needed. Ivy Growing On Trees The steps are largely the same, except with the caveat that you shouldn’t pull the dead ivy away. If you’re not concerned about the aesthetics of the dead ivy you can leave it on the tree, safe in the knowledge that it won’t cause any more problems. Overgrown Ivy On The Ground Ivy is an enthusiastic grower on the ground as well as up vertical surfaces. If you’ve got ivy crawling around at ground level and you’d like to keep it in check, here’s what to do – Dig up as many of the stems and as much of the root as possible. Take a look at the weedkillers mentioned above, taking special care not to let other plants come into contact. You can ruffle the ivy leaves with a rake or similar tool to damage their surface, giving weedkiller more of an opportunity to soak through (the leaves in their natural state are quite lacquered, making them fairly resistant to moisture). If the ivy is growing in a spot you’re not planning to use for growing other plants, you can cover it over with carpet or a thick layer of bark mulch for a couple of growing seasons. This will prevent the plant from getting the sunlight it needs to survive, ensuring a slow but certain death. Ivy at ground level is attractive but relentless Saltwater & Duct Tape One method for killing ivy that you’ll see mentioned fairly often is to slit the root, then use duct tape or similar waterproof tape to create a cone-like structure around it. With the slit contained you can pour saline solution (water + salt) into the cone, which will gradually enter into the root system and damage the ivy. Simultaneous and repeated applications of this treatment can eventually kill the plant. Advice From A Master Horticulturist One of the most important things to keep in mind with ivy is that often, it isn’t causing as much damage as you might initially think. The common misconception that ivy strangles trees and drains their nutrients, for example, is wrong. It’s only if ivy is growing on masonry in poor condition, or if it’s threatening gutters or similar accoutrements. So, if you’re considering killing ivy, take a step back first to evaluate whether it’s really the best course of action. “Ivy is a valuable resource for garden life, both as habitat and as a source later summer flower resource for pollinators,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “The approach I take is to manage ivy growth. Allowed to run its course, it can add to the wind ‘sail’ of a tree or shrub in winter, and when removed it takes away a valuable resource for garden wildlife. “I seek to sever the stems of one-third of established stems as close to the base of trees and shrubs as I can. “I don’t poison as it will take some time for the ivy to re-establish significantly. This achieves a balance between controlling a potential problem and retaining a resource for wildlife.” Whichever method you go for, we hope that this guide has been useful in helping you to conceptualise the problem and find the right answer. References 1. Roots Attach Firmly: English Ivy. (n.d.). AskNature. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://asknature.org/strategy/roots-attach-firmly/ 2. Patch, D. (n.d.). Ivy: Boon or Bane? Trees in Focus. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.trees.org.uk/Trees.org.uk/files/f0/f0e3a76b-926f-4cde-b703-417563ae93df.pdf 3. Ivy (Hedera helix) – British Wildflowers. (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/plants/wild-flowers/ivy/
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You Can Use Bleach To Kill Weeds, But That Doesn't Mean You Should - Here's Why
IN THIS GUIDE Finding The Right Solution Can You Use Bleach To Kill Weeds? Bleach Does Kill Weeds: Here’s How What About Bleach For Patios & Places With No Soil? Bleach In Your Garden: Horror Stories Killing Weeds With Bleach: The Verdict References There’s nothing quite as frustrating as weeds. Whatever you do, however much back-breaking manual labour you put in, their persistent green selves will always find a way back into your garden. It’s an ongoing war of attrition where the closest you’ll ever get to victory is holding slightly more of them at bay for slightly longer. As a gardener, it’s likely you know this pain fairly well. Finding The Right Solution It’s also fairly likely that you’ve considered whether the weapons in your anti-weed arsenal are really strong enough to do the trick. You’ve covered beds for the winter before growing season to kill off as many as possible. You’ve forked the soil to remove the most persistent contenders. How do you get rid of the confounded things?! Maybe you’ve even picked out a few by hand: adding the sweat from your brow to the toolkit. Perhaps you’ve also considered the nuclear option. Can You Use Bleach To Kill Weeds? If you’re at the end of your gardening tether, you may be looking for something a little more extreme than the techniques you’ve employed so far. And while you can use bleach to kill weeds, as organic gardeners we strongly advise that you shouldn’t. “I cannot stress enough: you should not use bleach in the garden!” says Dan Ori, Master Horticulturist. “The potential danger to you and damage to your garden is massive. “I have never and will never use bleach (Sodium hypochlorite) in the garden, as the long-lasting negative side effects and wider environmental impact can be extremely high.” Bleach causes damage to the soil that can take a long time to correct itself, and there are safer alternatives available. Bleach Does Kill Weeds: Here’s How In the same way that bleach is harmful to humans and pretty much every living creature we share the planet with, it’s also harmful to plants.1 When bleach soaks into the soil, it makes its way down and kills the plant from the roots upward. Here’s the kicker, though. Because the pH level of bleach is so high, it makes the soil very alkaline. As most plants have very specific pH ranges at which they can grow, bleached soil isn’t conducive to plant life or growth, as the high alkaline levels prohibit plants from absorbing the nutrients they need to thrive.2 And as a gardener, this is probably reason enough in itself not to slather your garden with the stuff! Also, a by-product of bleach breaking down is salt, which isn’t a good addition to soil.3 There’s a reason why armies salted the earth behind them when they conquered a city: salt attacks plants via osmosis, sucking the moisture from them and slowly killing them. So, while bleach will be effective against common weeds, the collateral damage really isn’t worth the risk. And while it works on small weeds, it’s unlikely to make a dent on bigger weeds with dense root systems. When you consider this fact, it makes bleach an even less viable option for evacuating pesky weeds from your outdoor space. What About Bleach For Patios & Places With No Soil? Maybe you’re wondering about using bleach to remove weeds from the cracks between paving stones on your patio, or somewhere else in your garden that doesn’t have soil. In this instance, we’d still recommend using a product that’s designed specifically for this purpose. Although you’re not applying bleach directly to the soil, it’s not hard to see how it could make its way there eventually. When it rains, for instance. Or even as the residue trickles along channels in the slabs. There are more environmentally-friendly alternatives to consider: Sprinkle baking soda over your patio, sweep it into the cracks with a broom, then add water Use your hands! It’s not fun or particularly glamorous, but it’s an effective way to get rid of them Use special tools designed for narrow spaces. If you can’t fit your fingers into thin crevices between stones, use a tool made for the job Use boiling water. While this method definitely can (and will) kill any other plants and creepy crawlies it comes into contact with, it at least won’t cause lingering damage to the soil As you can see, there are plenty of viable options to consider before thinking about bleach. Bleach In Your Garden: Horror Stories Read around garden forums and you’ll find all sorts of stories about reckless neighbours washing their driveways with generous helpings of bleach, only to end up killing off the carefully tended flowerbeds of nearby homes. If you’ve been investing time and effort into your garden for many years, there’s nothing quite as soul-destroying as having your work destroyed by such an easily avoidable outcome. There are also stories of spouses enthusiastically cleaning their garden furniture, only for their partner to find all the nearby flowers dead the next time they head outside to water them. Whichever side of these potential situations you’re on, hopefully you can see why using bleach in your garden isn’t the best idea. It’s more than likely that you’ll kill at least something you didn’t intend to, whether it’s your own plants, your neighbour’s plants, or your partner’s respect for you. “There better not be any bleach in that bucket, Ian!” Killing Weeds With Bleach: The Verdict In this article, we’ve tried our best to outline the information around using bleach to kill weeds in your garden. Our goal has been to show that while you can use bleach in your garden, you probably shouldn’t. Better alternatives are available, and the amount of damage you risk causing to other plants, creatures, and ecosystems just aren’t worth it.4 In short: if you’re looking for effective ways to kill weeds in your garden, there are plenty of steps you can take before needing to consider bleach warfare. References 1. Benzoni, T. (2022, October 16). Bleach Toxicity. StatPearls – NCBI Bookshelf. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK441921/ 2. Effect of Soil pH on the Growth, Reproductive Investment and Pollen Allergenicity of Ambrosia artemisiifolia L. (n.d.). Frontiers. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2018.01335/full 3. Ono, M. (n.d.). Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Bleach But Were Afraid to Ask. News & Views. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.scripps.edu/newsandviews/e_20060213/bleach.html 4. Beirne, P. (2020, May 26). How Bleach Damages the Environment and Our Health. Public Goods. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://blog.publicgoods.com/how-bleach-damages-the-environment-and-our-health/
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Practical And Beautiful - Here's 16 Herbs With Purple Flowers In Summertime
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Lavender 2) Rosemary 3) Catnip 4) Chives 5) Sage 6) Anise Hyssop 7) Oregano 8) Thyme 9) Purple Coneflower 10) Blue False Indigo 11) Sweet Basil 12) Spearmint 13) Foxley 14) Bergamot 15) Pennyroyal 16) Coriander References “A garden of purple is always in bloom!” This adage, common among gardeners, points to the wide range of plants that have purple flowers. If you incorporate a selection of these into your garden, it’s likely that their combined flowering season will extend across quite a large swathe of the year. “You’ll also enjoy the sight and sound of plentiful pollinators through the growing season,” says RHS-Qualified Horticulturist Colin Skelly, “because purple-blue is bees’ favourite colour and purple-blue flowers tend to have high levels of nectar”.1 Adding herbs to your garden brings so much to the space. Not only do you give yourself a ready supply of tasty herbs to liven up your cooking, but you tap into a whole new seam of flowering potential. Here are sixteen contenders, all of which will look stunning in your garden regardless of the requirement for kitchen condiments. 1) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: LAVANDULA HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Sheltered; Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Probably the first purple herb that comes to mind is lavender. This distinct and varied family of herbs all feature long stalks tipped with purple (or sometimes white or pink) sprigs. Rub your fingers on a sprig and you’ll get a waft of their famous scent: one you can find in all manner of essential oils, toiletries, and even recipes. Lavender grows naturally in expansive bushes, often replete with bees going about their pollen-related business. Bushes naturally exude the captivating scent, making them a lovely addition to any outdoor space. Lavender also grows well in containers: great if you want to prevent it from getting too unruly. 2) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SPRING / SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Full Sun; Most Soils This is a good example of a herb that most of us never really see in bloom. If you pick up a packet of rosemary from the shelf at your local supermarket, it’ll just be a few sprigs of dark green leaves. Catch it in the right season growing in the wild, though, and you’ll find a dazzling array of purple flowers vying for your attention. 3) Catnip BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta cataria HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER / AUTUMN IDEAL CONDITIONS: Exposed Or Sheltered; Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil If you have a cat (or if you are one, although this seems unlikely), then you should definitely try growing catnip if you have the space. This member of the mint family has the fascinating effect of being completely irresistible to cats. Some take a sniff and collapse into a puddle of cuteness and fluff, while others enter into a psychedelic new headspace for a little while, writhing about the place with dilated pupils.2 However your cat responds to this plant, it’s a nice experience to share together. And what’s more, the gentle purple flowers will look fantastic in your garden, whether alone or nestled up against other purple herbs. 4) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any The first time I saw purple flowers on chives was by accident. I left my chive plant unattended for a while, and then came back to little pink-purple orbs balanced delicately on the top of each strand. The flowers are not only visually intriguing, but they’re also edible. Pick one off and plop it onto a salad or any other dish where a garnish tasting faintly of onions will contribute, and you’re good to go. 5) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Sheltered; Full Sun Or Part Shade; Moist, Well-Drained Soil No dish of lamb is complete without a sprig of sage, and in fact this herb lends itself so well to a selection of hearty, warming winter foods that we almost insist that any gardener with space should grow it. Each summer your sage will erupt into a lively purple bloom, and it’s a real treat to behold. 6) Anise Hyssop BOTANICAL NAME: Agastache foeniculum (Pursh) Kuntze HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER / AUTUMN IDEAL CONDITIONS: Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil With this herb, we’re entering the realm of herbs that most people may not be overly familiar with. And that’s alright! It’s a good opportunity to learn what’s available in addition to the regular contenders we see in the supermarket herb section. Anise hyssop looks a little like lavender to the untrained eye. It boasts purple sprigs atop long stalks and grows in dense bushes. The scent and flavour are subtly different though: expect something a little like liquorice (hence the name), and ideal for using as garnishes or working through recipes. 7) Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER / AUTUMN IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any This herb packs a very strong flavour punch, and is a common feature in Italian cooking. Often you’ll find dried oregano in herb mixes on the table in pizza restaurants, but the fresh leaf also makes a great addition to cooking. Oregano also boasts purple flowers, as you may have expected when you found it in this list. Pinky-purple petals erupt forth from darker purple, almost red bases, giving this herb a real stunning colour profile. 8) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil We’ve written elsewhere on this site about the vast number of pun opportunities presented by thyme. On the off chance that you’ve read one of those articles, we’ll spare you the onslaught of dad jokes here, and will suffice to say that thyme is another herb commonly found in supermarket which, in the wild, sports attractive purple flowers. If you’re trying to identify a herb with purple flowers, or you’re looking for purple-flowered herbs to grow in your very own herb garden, we definitely recommend taking the thyme to familiarise yourself with this one. 9) Purple Coneflower BOTANICAL NAME: Echinacea purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER / AUTUMN IDEAL CONDITIONS: Well-Drained Soil; Full Sun Echinacea has a long and proud history in traditional cultures. It also has purple flowers, too, making it a suitable entrant for this list. While some of the other herbs here have small and dainty flowers, echinacea’s bloom is big and bold. The centre of the flower is surrounded by big oval-shaped pedals that flirt with pink and purple in equal measure. 10) Blue False Indigo BOTANICAL NAME: Baptisia australis HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Exposed; Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 11) Sweet Basil BOTANICAL NAME: Ocimum basilicum HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Sheltered; Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil 12) Spearmint BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha spicata HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: PART SHADE; POORLY DRAINED SOIL 13) Foxley BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus pulegioides ‘Foxley’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SPRING / SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Full Sun; Most Soils 14) Bergamot BOTANICAL NAME: Monarda citriodora HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any Sunlight Or Exposure; Moist, Well-Draining Soil 15) Pennyroyal BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha pulegium HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any Sunlight Or Exposure; Moist, Poorly Drained Soil 16) Coriander BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any When growing herbs take care to familiarise yourself with the growing requirements of each. While an untended (or even forgotten) herb box will hold its own for a little while, they’ll definitely do a lot better with the TLC that any plant deserves. References 1. How Bees See And Why It Matters. (2016, May 20). The Magazine of American Beekeeping. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.beeculture.com/bees-see-matters/ 2. Crazy for catnip. (n.d.). The Humane Society of the United States. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/crazy-catnip
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Registered Arborist Dan Ori On The Reasons To Prune An Apple Tree (And How To Do It)
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune an Apple Tree? Pruning For Health Pruning For Size Pruning For Shape Tip-Bearers & Semi-Tip Bearers When To Prune An Apple Tree Choosing The Right Tools Apple trees can be a great, relatively low maintenance option for many temperate climate gardens, but learning how to prune effectively will keep your tree healthy. Apple trees, especially once established, require little time and effort. If you place your apple tree in the right place, it will likely need little care from you – but there are a few annual jobs to take care of, and pruning is one of those jobs. Why Prune an Apple Tree? Garden apple trees are typically pruned for a number of reasons and if you are clear about your reasons for pruning, this can help you do so correctly and effectively. “Pruning is a big deal for people, as many don’t understand how trees grow and what to do with them,” says Tom Adams, the owner of Tom Adams Fruit Tree Nursery. “Think about why you actually want to prune the tree and go from there.” According to registered Arborist Dan Ori, the main reasons to prune an apple tree include: Improving the health of the tree Creating a desired form (including establishing a leading leader and notching) Reduction and thinning to maintain a tree form Removing potential failure points (including poor branch-unions) Dealing with a nuisance (blocking light, low branch etc) Stimulating new growth Checking growth (stop, remove, brutting, ringing, nicking) Removing unwanted growth including Suckers (from the base/belowground/below the rootstock), epicormic (from a clear trunk), and water shoots(from a dormant/latent bud) Stimulating the development of fruit buds Removing of buds to reduce leaf or more likely fruit growth Fruit thinning and removal Ensuring the tree carries fruit in a healthy harvestable way Increasing airflow through the tree Use as part of a regenerative practice (coppicing and pollarding) The first of these is definitely the most important, and will be a type of pruning required for all apple trees. Pruning For Health The primary goals when pruning an apple tree for health are two-fold. Firstly, you will prune to create a tree without dead, damaged or diseased material. By removing the ‘three D’s’ from the tree, you can keep it healthier, and ensure that the tree is able to put all its energy into flowering and fruiting successfully. Dan Ori explains each of these in more detail below: Dead – “There could be a strong biodiversity case to argue that leaving dead wood in trees can increase habitat for fungal, insect and animal colonisation; however, we will normally prune out dead wood to prevent spread of potential disease, and remove the dangers of the deadwood naturally shedding and falling on something or someone.” Diseased – “With trees we use the term ‘diseased’ in a broad way to cover viral, fungal, and bacterial infections. As mentioned with dead wood, we remove this diseased wood to prevent its spread.” Damaged – “We remove damaged wood for safety reasons and to prevent further damage to the tree, damaged wood can also be an opportunity for rots, disease, and harmful insect/animal colonisation.” Once any dead, damaged or diseased branches have been removed, you should next prune to create an open canopy and to prevent future damage or congestion problems. Prune to create a goblet-shaped structure on bush and standard tree forms. This allows light to penetrate the heart of the canopy more effectively. And can allow fruits to ripen well and increase yield later in the year. Remove branches that rub up against others causing damage when moving in the wind, or which are touching or almost touching. Judiciously thin the branches to create an open structure. A bird should be able to fly between all branches. Look at an apple tree from all angles and remove branches and twigs as required to open up the canopy. Shorten the growth of the previous year on each primary branch by about one-third, to a bud facing in the right direction. This encourages the development of healthy new branches and fruit-producing spurs. “Always keep sharp tools and make sure your cuts are clean to avoid any bacteria or diseases coming in,” says Julie Bellemann, a co-op member from Sheffield Fruit Trees. Pruning For Size You will need a pruning saw to remove larger branches on an overgrown mature tree If you have a mature and overgrown apple tree in your garden, you may wish to prune to reduce the size of a particular tree. You may wish to reduce the size of an apple tree because it has outstripped local resources and needs to be smaller for its own best health. You might also prune an apple tree because it is casting too much shade, or competing too vigorously with other plants nearby. Or you might prune because a particular apple tree is obscuring your view, or simply because it has grown too large to harvest easily. When pruning a mature apple tree to reduce size, it is important to be patient – some very overgrown mature apple trees will need to be pruned in stages over several years. Avoid taking off more than 1/3 of the canopy in one pruning session, even when a more drastic reduction in size is desired. Taking too much material off all at once can damage the trees, and put them under strain. It can also be counterproductive as heavily pruned apple trees can put on a lot of new vertical growth, which can spoil the look and shape of mature trees. “Prune to keep a nice open tree to allow maximum sunlight and air flow around the tree,” Tom suggests. Renovation pruning can breathe new life into an older tree as well as reducing its size. You may also wish to regulate size once a tree has reached an optimum size for the rootstock onto which it has been grafted. Regulated pruning maintains an ideal size without affecting the fruiting potential of the tree. In general, a rule of thumb with regulated pruning is to prune out no more than 10-20% of the canopy each year. Pruning laterals on overly vigorous trees can also help check their growth. Pruning For Shape On bush and standard trees, pruning for shape is usually a simple aesthetic consideration. Just take a step back and look at the overall shape of the tree as you prune for health or size. “Establish the shape of your tree as early as you can,” says Julie. “Prune off the main leader where you want the crown of your tree to start, and then shape it over the next few years. “Once the shape of the tree is established, look at how it grows. You might not need to prune your tree very much every year.” If you are training a young tree into a particular form, then pruning will be a little more complex. Intricacies of formative pruning will depend on the specific trees you have chosen to grow, and the shape you wish it to take. Apple trees can be trained into espaliers, fans, pyramids, columns/cordons or even into step-over hedges if a dwarfing rootstock has been used. Tip-Bearers & Semi-Tip Bearers “Apples will bear their fruit from fruit buds along the branches, from the tip of the branches, or a mix of both,” adds Dan Ori. “A common example of a tip-bearing/semi-tip-bearing cultivar is ‘Bramley’s Seedling’. “With tip bearers, you would not normally reduce the length of branches as this will result in little or no fruit the in the coming year, instead in winter, if you feel it is congested you would remove one in three/four branches of the current year’s growth to thin out the structure. When To Prune An Apple Tree “Winter pruning promotes growth,” says Tom. “Where you make a pruning cut is where strong growth will start during the growing season.” Bush and standard apple trees should be pruned for health, formative pruning (for young bush/standard trees) regulation pruning (to maintain size) and renovation pruning (or overgrown mature trees) should be carried out during the dormant period, between November and March. In areas with wetter winters, it can be a good idea to wait until late winter or very early spring, as Julie shares: “Avoid pruning on wet days or just before a bad frost. Other than that, fruit trees can technically be pruned all year round, but winter is the most common time.” However, apple trees are generally resilient, and, unlike other fruit trees like plums and cherries, will not typically experience any problems after being pruned any time during the winter months. Bush or standard forms which are overly vigorous may additionally be pruned in summer. In this type of summer pruning, more vigorous laterals longer than 30cm are reduced in length by around half all over the tree between mid-August and September. Shaped apple trees in restricted forms -espaliers, fans, pyramids, cordons etc. are typically pruned in summer to maintain their shape. This type of pruning is undertaken in mid to late August, once the bottom third of new shoots has become stiff and woody and the possibility of secondary growth is reduced. The goal is to cut back new shoots to maintain shape, and allow light to reach maturing fruit. Winter vs Summer Pruning Dan Ori argues that when to prune will depend on the species of fruit tree, but for apples and pears: “Winter pruning happens after leaf fall and before buds burst open with new leaves in the spring, this would probably take place in December, January, and February in the UK. “Winter pruning should be about health, form, and stimulating growth rather than fruit bud formation. “Summer pruning is normally undertaken in a short period around the end of July to mid-August in the UK. “Summer pruning should be about fruit bud formation and checking growth.” You could think of it over time as pruning at winter for healthy leaves and pruning during summer for plentiful fruits. Choosing The Right Tools Pruning methods and timings will depend to a large degree on the apple tree variety you are growing, and on your goals. Remember, methods will differ depending on the reasons for pruning, but no matter what type of pruning you are undertaking on your apple tree, certain things remain the same. One important thing is to make sure that you have the right tools for the job. All tools must be clean, and, crucially, must be sharp. Blunt pruning tools can do a lot of damage to your tree. Make sure you have sharp secateurs, loppers (and pruning saw where larger branches must be removed) for the job. Thinking about the pruning requirements for a particular apple tree can help you decide whether or not a particular tree will be the right choice for you and your garden. Typically, standard or bush forms will require the least work, and are the easiest to prune.
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These Are The Signs Of Box Blight: Act Quickly To Save Your Plants Says Darren Lerigo
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Box Blight? Identifying Box Blight Preventative Measures Avoid Introducing It Into Your Garden Create Less Favourable Conditions Treating A Minor Box Blight Problem Treating A Major Box Blight Problem Buxus Alternatives References Box blight is a fungal disease that can pose major problems for gardeners with box hedges. In this article, we will introduce this common problem, and talk through what you can do to deal with this issue in an organic garden. What Is Box Blight? Box blight is a fungal infection which impacts box hedges or topiary. Two genetic types of fungus called Cylindrocladium buxicola are responsible for this problem.1 In an organic garden, you will obviously avoid the use of synthetic fungicides, but in any case, fungicides alone are rarely able to cure the problem.2 Box blight can be a serious problem, and it is important to remain vigilant. The sooner you spot the problem, the more likely it is that you will be able to save your plants. Box blight is the most serious of a number of infections which can present problems for box. However, all is not lost – the good news is that box blight does not affect the plant roots, only the above-ground growth. Identifying Box Blight First things first, it is important to be able to spot box blight and identify it correctly. When buxus is infected with box blight: Spots will appear on the leaves. Leaves turn brown and fall off, leaving bare patches. Black streaks and dieback will be visible on the stems. In wet conditions, you may also be able to see white spore masses of the fungus under infected leaves. Another fungal disease, Volutella blight, may initially be confused for box blight. This too leads to twig and leaf dieback – but black streaks characteristic of box blight do not form and the shrubs will not typically lose their leaves with this infection. One other key way to tell box blight apart from this somewhat less serious problem is that in the case of Volutella blight, the fungal spore masses under the leaves will be pink and not white. Preventative Measures While you can often rescue buxus which has a box blight infection, of course prevention is better than cure. Box blight spreads very easily, and can still arrive in your garden in spite of your best efforts. But there are certain things you can do to make it less likely that box blight will arrive, reduce the chances of it taking hold, and make it easier to manage the problem if it does. “Mulch, cut your plants down less and make sure you clean your tools whenever dealing with your plants,” suggests Darren Lerigo, a member of the European Boxwood and Topiary Society. Avoid Introducing It Into Your Garden Quarantine box coming from garden centres If planting box, choose somewhat more resistant varieties. All Buxus ssp. are susceptible to box blight and none are highly resistant. However, B. microphylla varieties are generally less susceptible than B. sempervirens. Common box and its dwarf form B. suffruticosa are extremely susceptible. ‘Faulkner’ is one variety available in the UK that is said to be somewhat more resistant. Make sure you quarantine new box plants for four weeks to make sure they are free of infection before you introduce them to your garden. Ideally, avoid the risk of importing new plants by propagating healthy plants in your own garden rather than buying additional plants. Sanitise tools, equipment and garden wear to make sure you do not spread disease from one area of your garden to another. (Box blight will likely have already been present for some time before symptoms emerge, so practice good garden hygiene even if you have not yet spotted an infection.) If you have a gardener then it is important to make sure they do the same, and are not spreading infection between gardens. Make sure people come into contact with box as little as possible. Especially in areas with visitors, place box topiary where it is not brushed past or handled so frequently. Make sure paths are wider where lined by box hedges to reduce human contact. This also improves airflow. While blight can still arrive in your garden, taking these steps will help manage the risk and could keep your garden box blight free. Create Less Favourable Conditions Diversify – avoid planting very long box hedges that the disease can move along. And do not surround box topiary with box hedges. Separate areas of box with other planting. Plant box in well-ventilated areas, free from damp and shade where the fungus will thrive. Plant box avoiding overcrowding between it and other plants, and increase plant spacing when placing the box itself for better airflow. Water early in the day if possible. And avoid watering from overhead to make sure the foliage does not get as wet. Mulch under the box plants to cover fungus inoculum and reduce the chances of fungal spores splashing up from the soil onto the leaves. Prune box to increase the distance between leaves and the ground. And trim to create hedges etc. with convex rather than flat tops. (For better water runoff which may help reduce the severity of box blight.) Always undertake pruning and trimming in dry weather conditions. Trim/ prune less frequently (for lower density and more open structure). Feed plants moderately, and not with a high nitrogen feed. Choose an organic formulation specifically for box for optimal plant health. Treating A Minor Box Blight Problem If you do see box blight in your garden, you must deal with the problem as soon as possible. The quicker you are able to tackle the problem, the more likely it is that plants can be saved and the easier containment will be. If you spot box blight: Remove all affected sections from the plant, cutting back to healthy growth, and a little further. Clear up all plant matter and surrounding debris. You might use a vacuum cleaner to suck up all leaves that fall to the centre of the plant where branches are too dense to access these easily. Scrape off all existing mulch and the surface of the topsoil where fungus is harboured. Bag up all this material and dispose of it carefully. Take great care not to spread the infection to other parts of your garden, and keep material clear of your composting system. Sterilise all tools, shoes and clothing so you do not spread the fungus to other parts of the garden. Add a new soft, natural mulch (Topbuxus carpet, for example) around the plants. Fertilise plants with a multi-purpose of Buxus-specific organic plant feed to promote healthy new growth. The healthier the plants are, the easier it will be for them to stave off infection. Since it is likely that other areas not yet showing symptoms will be affected, you will probably not immediately eradicate the problem, but you can reduce spreading. You can also repeat this process as and when other symptoms show. Treating A Major Box Blight Problem Unfortunately, sometimes a major box blight problem can set in before gardeners are aware of the problem. In some cases, it may be best to cut your losses and remove the affected plants entirely. However, in many cases, even a box hedge or piece of topiary with many affected areas can still be saved through careful and yet rather drastic action. Hedges and parterres of box can sometimes be saved by reducing height by around half, and perhaps width as well – cutting back to a few centimetres below any black streaks on stems and as above, carefully bagging and removing affected material. This includes dead leaves inside the plants, mulch, leaves on the ground and the top layer of soil. As above, hygiene is crucial, and great care should be taken not to spread the disease. Again, promote healthy recovery by mulching, and feeding with an organic plant feed suited to box. Remain vigilant for further signs of infection. In some cases, even chopping back this much may not be sufficient. With severe cases, you may need to take more drastic action to save prized box plants. In this case you might: Cut back all plants showing symptoms right down to ground level, leaving just the stumps. And clear up, mulch and fertilise as above. Buxus Alternatives Euonymus fortunei In areas where box blight is a major problem, or where serious outbreaks have already occurred, it is usually easier to forgo box altogether. When choosing new plants, or replacing box, it is best to choose alternatives rather than struggling on. “Despite my best efforts, Box blight repeatedly ravaged the box hedge in my vegetable garden,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant and Professional Gardener. “I replaced it with Lonciera nitida, which is functional but does not match the attractiveness of Box and needs cutting several times during the growing season.” Some other options include: Berberis ssp. Euonymus fortunei Ilex crenata Lavandula angustifolia Lonicera nitida Osmathus delavayi Pittosporum ssp. Rosemarinus officinalis Santolina chamaecyparissus Taxus baccata References 1. Henricot, B., & Culham, A. (2002). Cylindrocladium buxicola, a new species affecting Buxus spp., and its phylogenetic status. Mycologia, 94(6), 980–997. https://doi.org/10.1080/15572536.2003.11833155 2. Box blight. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/box-blight
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