Growing
Rounding Up 15 Of The Best Dracaena ‘Dragon Plants’ With Chris Lee
IN THIS GUIDE The Dracaena Genus 1) D. fragrans ‘Massangeana’ 2) D. fragrans ‘Lemon Lime’ 3) D. surculosa ‘Florida Beauty’ 4) D. draco 5) D. marginata 6) D. reflexa ‘Variegata’ 7) D. fragrans ‘Warneckei’ 8) D. marginata ‘Tricolor’ 9) D. deremensis ‘Warneckii’ 10) D. fragrans ‘Compacta’ 11) D. ‘Janet Craig’ 12) D. fragrans ‘Golden Coast’ 13) D. fragrans ‘Ulises’ 14) D. fragrans ‘White Jewel’ 15) D. trifasciata ‘Snake Plant’ Enter The Dragons References On the island of Tenerife there sits a tree by the name of El Drago Milenario which, according to legend, is a thousand years old. And while we acknowledge there’s debate about the veracity of that number, there’s no denying that this is a truly ancient tree.1 El Drago Milenario – The Millennial Dragon Tree Weighing in around 150 tons, soaring to a height of nearly 21m, and boasting over 300 branches, this is a formidable tree. It’s so big that a special ventilation chamber was installed inside to keep air flowing to the centre and to prevent fungal growth. Truly, an inspirational plant. The Dracaena Genus El Drago Milenario is a Dracaena draco, a species in the genus Dracaena, in which you’ll find many distinctive and characteristic plants and trees well-suited to growing in the UK, despite their exotic appearance. With several centuries and several hundred tons under its belt, El Drago Milenario could be considered the patriarch of the genus Dracaena. And while no plant you grow will likely ever reach a similar size or age, you can incorporate the family’s striking aesthetic into your home or garden. “If growing outside, watch out for unseasonal drops in temperature as this can easily damage a Draceana,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “When I worked in a very mild Cornish coastal garden, a D. draco survived outside for five years and began to look happier as it established. “Sadly, a drop in temperature to -5ºC one winter killed the plant. Warming winter temperatures are allowing more experiments with half-hardy plants outdoors in the UK but they are vulnerable to even short spells of frost.” We’ve rounded up fifteen of the best Dracaena ‘dragon plants’ for UK gardeners: 1) D. fragrans ‘Massangeana’ COMMON NAME: CORN PLANT PREFERRED LIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT (CAN BURN IN FULL SUN) WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1.5 – 2 Metres This variety boasts variegated leaves blending rich green and white, in the distinct shape of swords. Though this plant does not flower often, you may catch a glimpse of a distinctive yellow bloom followed by orange berries. ‘Massangeana’ is a popular houseplant, thanks to its size, but will grow to heights of around 4m if grown outside. It’s worth noting at this point that the enormous stature of El Drago Milenario is far from typical of plants in this genus! This variety also exemplifies the exotic confidence that Dracaena plants will bring to any space. Their thick brown stems and bold leaves have the visual clout to act as a centrepiece just as much as an accent. For best results outdoors, grow somewhere in full sun, with any aspect except north-facing. Keep sheltered from the worst of the elements, and bring indoors during cold spells. 2) D. fragrans ‘Lemon Lime’ PREFERRED LIGHT: MEDIUM, INDIRECT (DON’T PLACE IN FULL SUN) WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; KEEP WELL-DRAINED; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1.5 – 2 METRES Here we have another houseplant-sized Dracaena, this time sporting slightly lighter green in its still-variegated leaves. It’s from the dazzlingly bright leaves that the plant takes its name, incidentally – they bring to mind citrus. As with ‘Massangeana’, ‘Lemon Lime’ can be kept at a diminutive size with regular pruning, making it suitable for smaller containers. Left to grow, it will reach heights of around 1.5-2m. For best results, keep your ‘Lemon Lime’ in a spot with medium sun. Common to Dracaena, ‘Lemon Lime’ is prone to scorching or browning if it receives too much or too little sun, respectively. 3) D. surculosa ‘Florida Beauty’ Like a mix between a forest canopy and the night sky COMMON NAME: SPOTTED DRACAENA PREFERRED LIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT (DON’T PLACE IN FULL SUN) WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; KEEP WELL WATERED IN SUMMERTIME TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 0.5 – 1 METRES Where ‘Massangeana’ and ‘Lemon Lime’ have variegated stripes of green and white, the ‘Florida Beauty’ has captivating white mottling on its matte-green leaves. When choosing a houseplant for its visual appeal, you can’t go far wrong with this variety: It will complement other plants around it whilst standing out from the crowd thanks to its distinctive aesthetic. The leaves of this Dracaena unfurl from stems that are somewhat different to other plants in this genus, giving it another point of interest compared to its cousins. Like Lemon Line, this plant will do well in a spot with some sunlight. Avoid drafts and constant sun to prevent damage, and make sure to keep the soil well-watered to promote healthy growth. 4) D. draco COMMON NAME: DRAGON TREE / DRAGON’S BLOOD TREE PREFERRED LIGHT: FULL SUN (PROTECT FROM HARSH SUNLIGHT) WATERING: WATER FREELY TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1.5 – 2 METRES Harking back to El Drago Milenario at the start of this piece, let us now introduce D. draco. This tall tree with spiky green foliage atop an unbranched trunk is distinctly exotic. And on average, it grows to around 4-8m: far more manageable than the gargantuan Milenario. You’ll notice that the dracos above sit comfortably in pots. While their maximum likely height is several metres, it will take your plant a few years – maybe even a decade – to get to that point, meaning you can keep it inside for the interim. Keep your draco in bright but indirect light, and water when you’re sure the soil is nearly dry, and this plant will reward you with a very pleasing aesthetic. There’s good reason that the dragon tree is a common and popular houseplant, after all! 5) D. marginata COMMON NAME: MADAGASCAR DRAGON TREE PREFERRED LIGHT: FULL SUN (PROTECT FROM HARSH SUNLIGHT) WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1.5 – 2 METRES This member of the Dracaena genus brings another visual quirk to distinguish it from the variously mottled or variegated leaves we’ve seen so far. With this plant, you’ll notice streaks of red running up either side of each leaf. Thanks to its resilience (it is commonly referred to as being “nearly indestructible”), this plant is highly recommended for people new to keeping houseplants. If you keep this plant in full sun or partial shade, and keep it watered regularly, you’ll be rewarded with resilient growth and an attractive plant. 6) D. reflexa ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME: SONG OF INDIA PREFERRED LIGHT: FULL SUN (PROTECT FROM HARSH SUNLIGHT) WATERING: WATER FREELY TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1.5 – 2 METRES This plant also goes by the name ‘variegated song of India’, which we think is wonderfully evocative, and goes some way toward capturing the exoticism that plants in the Dracaena genus encapsulate. Part of the appeal of having house plants is that they provide a visual element that’s so frequently missing from interior design. That organic, alive something that a space can feel so empty without. By integrating plants like the variegated song of India, you bring a little of this life and vitality into your home. The green leaves framed by thick shocks of white invite the eye and, while we may be pushing the analogy a little bit here, bring to mind distant landscapes and cultures. What better way to liven up your living room! 7) D. fragrans ‘Warneckei’ COMMON NAME: STRIPED DRACAENA PREFERRED LIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT (DON’T PLACE IN FULL SUN) WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; KEEP WELL-DRAINED; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1.5 – 2 METRES Another white and green variegated variety, the ‘Warneckei’ has an almost modern aesthetic thanks to its bold lines and striking, dark colouration. As a centrepiece in a room with a modern design element, this houseplant would look fantastic. If you decide the ‘Warneckei’ is right for you, you’ll want to grow in indirect but bright sunlight – much like the other Dracaena plants in this list. Check that the top layer of soil is dry before watering, too, as over-watering is likely to cause root rot: A malady that’s hard to come back from! 8) D. marginata ‘Tricolor’ COMMON NAME: THREE COLOURED MADAGASCAR DRAGON TREE PREFERRED LIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT (CAN BURN IN FULL SUN) WATERING: WATER FREELY TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1.5 – 2 METRES The name ‘Tricolor’ hints at a certain property of this plant. Can you guess what it is? If you guessed “it has three colours,” then give yourself a point. This variety combines the red, white, and green we’ve seen variously distributed across other varieties in the list. And wow, doesn’t it look stunning? For a houseplant that truly catches the eye and draws attention, look no further than ‘Tricolor’. Contrasting the vibrant reds of this variety with the assorted greens in the usual houseplant palette is a way to bring another exotic flavour to your indoor space, and another demonstration of the versatility and visual excellence of the Dracaena family. 9) D. deremensis ‘Warneckii’ COMMON NAME: VARIEGATED STRIPED DRACAENA PREFERRED LIGHT: MODERATE, INDIRECT LIGHT WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; KEEP WELL-DRAINED; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1.5 – 2 METRES 10) D. fragrans ‘Compacta’ PREFERRED LIGHT: MODERATE, INDIRECT LIGHT WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1 – 2 METRES 11) D. ‘Janet Craig’ PREFERRED LIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT (DON’T PLACE IN FULL SUN) WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; KEEP WELL-DRAINED; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1 – 2 METRES 12) D. fragrans ‘Golden Coast’ PREFERRED LIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT (CAN BURN IN FULL SUN) WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 2 – 2.5 METRES 13) D. fragrans ‘Ulises’ PREFERRED LIGHT: MOSTLY SHADE WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; KEEP WELL WATERED IN SUMMERTIME TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: UP TO 3 METRES 14) D. fragrans ‘White Jewel’ PREFERRED LIGHT: MOSTLY SHADE WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 1 – 2 METRES 15) D. trifasciata ‘Snake Plant’ COMMON NAME: SNAKE PLANT PREFERRED LIGHT: MODERATE, INDIRECT LIGHT WATERING: WHEN DRIED OUT; KEEP WELL-DRAINED; DO NOT OVERWATER TYPICAL INDOOR HEIGHT: 0.75 – 1 METRES Enter The Dragons We hope that our list has inspired you to incorporate a Dracaena ‘dragon plant’ into your interior design plans. These plants are visually captivating, generally fairly easy to look after, and undeniably exotic, making them a great way to bring a little je ne sais quoi into your space. One of our favourite things when choosing houseplants is exploring the subtle variety available between members of the same plant family. Having a few dragon plants in your home will keep a consistent visual theme running through the space, while allowing you to play with colour, size, and even leaf patterns. Done well, this is an intriguing and alluring way to retain visual interest within and between rooms. We wish you the best in finding the right dragon plant for your needs, and we’d love to see what you come up with! References 1. Thousand-year-old dragon tree. (n.d.). Cabildo De Tenerife. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.tenerife.es/portalcabtfe/en/discover-tenerife/que-ver/el-drago-milenario
Learn more
From Honeysuckle To Virginia Creeper - Here's 12 Surprisingly Fast Growing Climbing Plants
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Chilean Trumpet Vine 2) Chinese Wisteria 3) Chocolate Vine 4) Himalayan Clematis 5) Climbing Hydrangea 6) Honeysuckle 7) Kiwi 8) Nasturtium 9) Rambling Rose 10) Russian Vine 11) Sweet Pea 12) Virginia Creeper References Cover walls, fences and trellises in the blink of an eye with these super speedy climbers. Climbing plants are a highly valuable addition to any garden. Whether trained along the front-facing façade of an English country manor, wound around the structural supports of a pergola or planted as a decorative addition to a garden fence, climbers add colour and intrigue to otherwise plain surfaces. They can also be a great source of biodiversity, bringing bees, butterflies and other pollinators into your garden. Finally, they consume very little soil space, allowing you to get more bang for your pot and maximise the space available to you via vertical growing. While some climbing projects are long-term commitments, there are occasions when you might wish to cover an unsightly shed wall or obscure a gap in your border quickly if time is of the essence. If that sounds familiar, there’s no need to panic – there are plenty of climbers which show considerable growth in just a few months, affording you the coverage you need without waiting years for it to flourish. If you’re in the market for a quick-growing climber, here’s a handful of suggestions to get the ball rolling, including evergreen, deciduous, self-clinging, annual and perennial options to suit every situation. Whatever purpose you have in mind, there’s sure to be a climbing plant to satisfy your needs. 1) Chilean Trumpet Vine Campsis radicans BOTANICAL NAME: CAMPSIS HARDINESS RATING: H4 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Chilean trumpet vine is one of the more ostentatious entries on this list, with its honking great hooter of a bloom growing up to 8cm in size! As well as its ample proportions, the climber isn’t shy in terms of its colour scheme, either; the rich greenery of its leaves is offset by the brilliant burnt orange of its flower, resulting in a plant and a flower that’s guaranteed to turn heads and set tongues wagging. As the name suggests, the plant originates in the Americas and as such, is accustomed to slightly warmer temperatures, but if positioned in full sun, it should cope with most parts of the UK with no problems. Like many of the other options on this list, it’s such a keen grower that it must be kept in check to avoid it becoming a nuisance for other plants in its vicinity. 2) Chinese Wisteria Wisteria sinensis BOTANICAL NAME: WISTERIA HARDINESS RATING: H6 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS With its intertwining woody stems, drooping floral blooms and striking lilac flowerheads, Chinese wisteria is a breathtakingly beautiful plant wherever it’s displayed. For best results, you may wish to train it up and over a pergola, trellis or other archway and allow the gorgeous blossoms to dangle tantalisingly through the gaps in the structure. Chinese wisteria is not just a pretty face, either, but an extremely hard worker, as well. Indeed, the speed and spread of its growth is so enthusiastic that it could be termed as invasive if left unchecked, so you’ll need to keep your pruning shears at the ready to stay on top of this keen grower.1 But put in the requisite gardening hard yards and you’ll be rewarded with a truly stunning specimen. 3) Chocolate Vine Akebia quinata BOTANICAL NAME: Akebia quinata HARDINESS RATING: H6 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Chocolate vine is the ideal option if you wish to add a touch of exoticism and extravagance to your garden’s palette. The highly unusual flowers take the form of three curled petals of deep waxy maroon, set against a backdrop of distinctive bright green leaves. Indeed, the whole ensemble is so unorthodox as to appear almost artificial and it’s certainly a rare but pleasing sight in UK gardens. This spirited grower will do well in full sun or partial shade, but like most climbers, doesn’t enjoy being buffeted by the wind too much, so shelter is advised. It should grow up to a maximum of 10m and a spread of 5m, meaning it’s an ideal option for covering the walls of a shed, garage or other outhouse. 4) Himalayan Clematis Clematis montana BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis montana HARDINESS RATING: H5 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED (AVOID ACIDIC) FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS There are plenty of varieties of Clematis to choose from, all of which are vigorous climbers which will shoot up the side of a wall, fence or pergola at an impressive pace. We particularly recommend the ‘Wilsonii’ cultivar, which is an early-blooming specimen with delicate, star-shaped petals of white that appear in May and June and add a wonderfully calming aesthetic to any environment they adorn. C. montana ‘Wilsonii’ are particularly attractive not just for their visual characteristics, but also for the scented perfume which their flowers exude, as well. Meanwhile, the bronze tinge taken on by their vibrant green leaves is a striking counterpoint to the white petals later in the year. They’re not so eager as to require much in the way of maintenance, though regularly deadheading and cleaning up of loose stems can help to tidy the appearance of the plant. 5) Climbing Hydrangea Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea petiolaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 SUNLIGHT: ANY SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED (AVOID ACIDIC) FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Although climbing hydrangeas might not be the quickest climbers out of the traps, once they’ve built up a head of steam, there’s no stopping them. The H. anomala subsp. petiolaris variety pictured above is a popular deciduous variety with attractive heart-shaped leaves and oversized white flowers, but there are several evergreen options to choose from, including H. seemanii and H. serratifolia. Whether you choose an evergreen or deciduous variety will likely come down to a matter of personal preference, though it should be remembered that the former are slightly smaller and more manageable than the latter. Indeed, the Hydrangea petiolaris cultivar is particularly known to overstep its boundaries and take up more space than you might have allocated to it, with a 15m height and 8m spread possible in mature plants. 6) Honeysuckle Lonicera mandarin BOTANICAL NAME: LONICERA HARDINESS RATING: H5 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE SOIL: CLAY OR LOAM; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Honeysuckle is a favourite shrub for placing next to trellises and frames, since the self-clinging nature of many varieties means it requires little in the way of training or maintenance. And there are plenty of varieties to choose from: the L. mandarin specimen pictured above offers a lovely burst of yellow and pink in its blossoms, but the most common flowering varieties are a deliciously creamy white which often matures into soft tones of other colours with age. Whichever type of honeysuckle you plump for, you’ll be rewarded with the beauty as well as the intoxicating fragrance of its flowers, making them an ideal option to place next to windows or doors to benefit from their qualities inside the home as well as out. There are both deciduous and evergreen options available, all of which are fully hardy, fairly fast-growing and will do well in full sun or partial shade. 7) Kiwi Actinidia deliciosa BOTANICAL NAME: Actinidia deliciosa HARDINESS RATING: H4 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: LOAM OR SAND; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Who doesn’t love a plant which also puts food on the table? That’s especially true when the fruit in question is as delectable and as nutritious as the kiwi. A particularly vigorous grower, kiwis can be used to spruce up the exterior of ugly sheds or decorate a wall or fence, all with the minimum of fuss. All that these low-maintenance climbers really need is ample sunshine and warmth – which, admittedly, can be a tricky sell in some quarters of the UK. However, as long as they’re positioned in direct sunlight, they should perform well enough wherever you are. There are self-fertilising varieties of kiwi available, but most cultivars will fare best when paired with another kiwi plant.2 Mulch annually and feed weekly, harvesting their scrumptious payload each August and September. 8) Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus HARDINESS RATING: H3 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS While the name might sound a little off-putting, nasturtiums are anything but nasty! Instead, these fast-growing climbers boast beautiful blooms reminiscent of a marigold, while the fact that both their flowers and foliage are edible means they can even serve as a salad accompaniment to your culinary creations. “Nasturtium is a good option if you need a climber that will quickly fill a gap and will flower into early autumn,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist. “It will die back in winter but will readily seed, so bear this in mind if you are considering it!” Nasturtium is even irresistible to non-human life; bumblebees can’t get enough of the nectar hidden within its blossoms, while caterpillars love to munch on its leaves. As such, it’s a great addition to any garden – and one which requires very little in the way of upkeep. No pruning is needed whatsoever, and while you may wish to water it in times of prolonged drought, the durability of the plant should see it bounce back before long. Versatile, it’s equally at home in the ground or a pot. A true wonder plant. 9) Rambling Rose Rambling rose BOTANICAL NAME: ROSA HARDINESS RATING: H6 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Not to be confused with climbing roses, rambling roses are a far speedier beast that will quickly cover any surface they’re trained upon. The trade-off with these types of roses, however, is that they just offer a single annual bloom, rather than several cascading blooms throughout the year. But what they lack in frequency, they more than make up for in magnificence, since there are few more impressive gardening sights than a rambling rose climber in full bloom each June. As with all rose bushes, there are varieties available in most colours imaginable, meaning you can pick a cultivar to correspond with the existing décor outside your home. Due to their single-blooming nature, there’s no need to deadhead them at all – unless you’ve selected one of the few exceptions to the rule such as ‘Malvern Hills’ or ‘Super Fairy’. 10) Russian Vine Fallopia baldschuanica BOTANICAL NAME: Fallopia baldschuanica HARDINESS RATING: H7 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE SOIL: ANY; SLIGHTLY MOIST; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Given that Russian vine’s alternative common name is ‘Mile-a-minute’, you might have an inkling of just how fast-growing this impatient climber is. If you leave it unattended for too long, it’ll grow too big for its boots and encroach upon neighbouring plants (and gardens!), so near-constant upkeep is required to whip it into shape. It is a relative of Japanese Knotweed which should tell you all you need to know about its vigorous growing habits.3 Having said that, Russian vine does reward attentive horticulturalists with an exquisite display. The real star of the show arrives in summer, when floral blooms will burst into life all over its surface area with tiny white florets tinged in pink. However, its deciduous nature means it’s also attractive in autumn, when the lush greenery of the leaves gives way to browns, reds and yellows to create a rustic, almost nostalgic effect. 11) Sweet Pea Lathyrus odoratus BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus odoratus HARDINESS RATING: H3 SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Sweet peas are an incredibly versatile climber in that they perform equally well whether they’re planted in a pot, as part of a colourful border or trained up a frame. This latter option is especially inviting, since you’ll be treated to vibrant blossoms in purple, red, pink or any number of other colours, right through the calendar year. What’s more, they also come with a delightful aroma, as is hinted at in their Latin name. This makes them an ideal choice for planting near a seating area in your back garden, since you’ll be able to enjoy their fragrance as you unwind. They’ll even work well as a cut flower and you may be surprised at just how effectively a handful of sweet peas in a vase will perfume your home. 12) Virginia Creeper Parthenocissus quinquefolia BOTANICAL NAME: Parthenocissus quinquefolia HARDINESS RATING: H6 SUNLIGHT: ANY SOIL: ANY; SLIGHTLY MOIST; WELL-DRAINED FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS As one of the most instantly recognisable forms of climbing plant, Virginia creeper is a hugely popular option to cover the front of large houses. As you can see from the photograph above, its striking red colours looks particularly impressive when paired with a brick or stone backdrop. It’s at its best in the autumnal months when the colours will really pop, but it provides strong growth for most of the year and floral displays throughout the summer. Though the species pictured above – Parthenocissus quinquefolia – is widely available in garden centres around the UK and completely legal to plant in your back garden, you should keep in mind that it is listed as a non-native invasive species.4 This means you should take great pains to ensure it doesn’t infiltrate wild areas outside of your garden, since its fast-growing tendencies can mean it quickly becomes unmanageable. With that in mind, liberal pruning is recommended – or else opting for less aggressive alternatives like Boston Ivy or Chinese Virginia Creeper. References 1. Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants. (n.d.). University of Florida. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/plant-directory/wisteria-sinensis/ 2. Growing Kiwifruit. (n.d.). Oregon State. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/pnw507.pdf 3. Perrone, J. (2009, September 24). A swine of a vine: why you should plant Russian vine at your peril. The Guardian. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/gardening-blog/2009/sep/24/gardens1 4. Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper). (2022, January 7). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.44676
Learn more
Campsis ‘Trumpet Vine’ Propagation, Pruning And Training Rules To Follow
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Trumpet Vines Pruning & Training Plant Care Common Issues References With anywhere from one to a handful of words, a name can encapsulate the exact features and qualities that make a plant unique; that stand it out from the crowd. And when you look at Campsis radicans – most commonly known as the ‘Trumpet Vine’ – it’s easy to see why we think the plant belongs firmly in this hallowed category of perfectly named plants. An elongated throat holds the petals far away from the stem where they open proudly, resembling the brass bell that distinguishes the end of a trumpet. Thanks to its stunning aesthetic qualities – we’re talking about the intriguing shape and the bold colours – the trumpet vine has become a popular addition to British gardens since it was found by colonists in Virginia and brought home to Blighty.1 Overview Botanical Name Campsis Common Name(s) Trumpet Vines Plant Type Climbers & Vines Native Area Americas Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Trumpet-shaped When To Sow January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune March This plant is in the family Bignoniaceae, and as we just alluded to, is native to America.2 Its hardiness has allowed it to establish itself in many places around the world. Being a vine, Campsis radicans grow enthusiastically, and puts out numerous tendrils that do their best to attach themselves to any surface in the vicinity. Because of this wild growth, trumpet vine is considered to be invasive by some gardeners and authorities.3 With this in mind, we recommend remaining vigilant if you decide to grow it. How To Grow Trumpet Vines Where To Grow As a vine, Campsis will grow well against a wall or structure, like a trellis. If you’re concerned about your plant getting unruly you may find more peace of mind growing in a container, where you can be sure that you can keep things contained if need be. C. × tagliabuana ‘Madame Galen’ Regardless of your decision whether to plant in the ground or a container, find a spot that’s warm and sunny. This plant requires shelter from the elements, especially cold wind, and strong sunlight is needed to help ripen its stems into wood. Sowing From Seed It’s possible to grow trumpet vine from seed, although this is not considered the optimal method. Choose potting compost, or mix organic matter with your garden soil – then fill a container and sprinkle the seeds on top. Check the seed packet for information on how much space to leave between them as this can vary between types. Add another thin layer of soil on top of the seeds, and then water well. For best results, leave your trumpet vine container in a place that will get good amounts of light and heat – a windowsill or greenhouse is usually a good bet. You can cover the pot with a clear plastic bag, making sure to put a stake in the soil to keep the plastic away from the surface. This will trap heat and moisture, creating conditions that are conducive to germination. Propagating From Cuttings To propagate a trumpet vine, simply trim 7.5-10cm from the suckers or shoots of an existing plant. Plant the cutting and keep it moist, and you should see new growth within a few weeks. Nurture the plant until it’s strong enough to plant outside, then prepare to plant out. Pruning & Training As a keen vine, Campsis will demand more of your time than some other plants. In the early years this involves training your plant, to encourage the development of a solid framework that will be the basis for future growth. Once your plant is established, attention turns toward keeping it in check with a thorough pruning regime. Then, once a plant is mature, you can renovate it to promote new shoots. Here’s a little information on each – Trumpet Vine Training By taking the time to train your vine in the early months, you can lay the groundwork for manageable and aesthetically pleasing coverage. Choosing the right support and encouraging your plant to grow as desired leaves more space, achieves more balanced growth, and makes it easier to care for going forward. The first step involves choosing a support; this can include wires, trellises, screens, and others. “When considering support for a climber, remember that you might have it for some time,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I tend to prefer wires over timber trellises because timber will not last as long and is tight to walls, whereas wires create more space between the wall and the climber. “Sometimes though, timber is the right choice for the job aesthetically.” Remember when planting out that you need to leave space between your plant and the support (typically 25-50cm) to prevent the support from blocking rain from reaching the plant. If you’re growing trumpet vine from seed, a pyramid frame of short canes is a good starting point. Manually wrap the vines around the canes, tying them on to keep them separate. Remember that you’ll need to untie them to move them to the permanent structure when they’re ready, so leave space and don’t tie knots too tight. Instructions for the next step vary between the type of support chosen, but the general idea is to train your vines onto the structure in a way that promotes neat and tidy growth. Where necessary make sure the structure is firmly attached to a wall, as the weight of a mature plant may pull it down otherwise. Remove weak shoots during the training process to help your plant stay as strong as possible. Pruning Guidelines The goal of pruning is to keep a mature plant in optimal condition, both in terms of health and appearance. By investing time and effort here you can help your trumpet vine to remain fully resplendent. At the end of each growing season cut back side shoots so that they only reach a couple of buds beyond the main stem. Get rid of weak growth, and if any stems are damaged, trim them back close to the base of the plant. Renovating Established Vines If your trumpet vine is looking a little old and dishevelled, you can do a ‘hard reset’, as it were. To do this, trim all of its shoots back to about 30cm in height, and retrain as you would with a new plant. Plant Care Watering Trumpet vines aren’t overly thirsty compared to some others, but will benefit from being watered in dry periods. This is true whether your plant is newly-established or well-established, and whether it’s growing in the ground or a container. Fertilising If your trumpet vine is growing in the ground, add fish, blood, and bone fertiliser in spring. Check the packet for details on the amount to use, as this will vary based on the size of your plant. In a container, traditional liquid plant feed should do the trick. Generally, trumpet vine doesn’t require too much feeding unless the soil is particularly low in nutrients. Feeding each year will encourage stronger growth, nonetheless. Common Issues There’s not much that’ll get in the way of this energetic plant and its ambition to grow as far and wide as possible. Here’s information on a couple of things that could disturb healthy growth, just in case – Bud Drop This refers to a phenomenon where buds drop off of a plant before opening, and can indicate that your trumpet vine is in a poor location. One thing to check is soil acidity – this plant can tolerate a wide range from mildly acidic through to mildly alkaline – but do check for any deviation beyond that range. If soil acidity is ok but your buds are still dropping, it may be the case that the soil is too wet. Check for overly-moist, potentially boggy soil; if you find it, add organic matter or leaf clippings to shift the moisture ratio to something more favourable. If you’re still encountering issues, check whether the vines are growing too tangled. If so, try to tease them apart and consider pruning back some of the weaker ones. Pests Aphids, scale insects, and mealybugs are prone to visit trumpet vine as a source of food. Sadly these visitors cause damage to any plant – leaving blemishes, brown spots, and potentially even killing off sections off if left unchecked. Keep vigilant, and look for any bugs that are visible to the naked eye. If you find any, remove by hand and check back to make sure they don’t return. Should they return, pesticide is often the next course of action – different products are recommended depending on the type of insect and the scale of the infestation. References 1. Campsis radicans. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144104315 2. Bignoniaceae. (1999, July 23). Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Bignoniaceae 3. Trumpet creeper: Campsis radicans. (n.d.). Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.invasiveplantatlas.org/subject.html?sub=5258
Learn more
Frost Tender But Remarkably Fuss-Free - Gazania 'Treasure Flower' Growing Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Gazania Gazania Plant Care Common Problems Buying Gazania References So colourful, so bubbly, so attractive, Gazanias are almost cartoon flowers! They are small, evergreen perennial plants that are frost-tender but are remarkably fuss-free and easy to grow. Bearing flowers in every hue of the warm spectrum, they will bring good cheer to any garden. Visualise the simple, innocent charms of the daisy with its wide-open corolla, ray florets, and disk-shaped appearance and add brilliant, warm colours laced and streaked with bright hues in other shades, and you’ve visualised Gazania, which is one of the ‘African Daisies’. These flowers also exhibit the charming habit of curling up for night and in overcast conditions. Evidently Gazanias like their beauty sleep! Overview Botanical Name Gazania Common Name(s) Treasure Flower Plant Type Perennial Native Area Africa Hardiness Rating H2 / H3 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Daisy-like flowers When To Sow February, March, April Flowering Months June, July, August When To Deadhead July, August Gazania is a genus within the Aster Family of daisy-like flowering plants and has 19 accepted species.1 There are a hundred-plus cultivars whose flowers exhibit vibrant colour-tones and dazzling designs, so to speak. Colours are predominantly in the warm range of the spectrum, ranging from yellow through red including pink. Perhaps it is because of the brilliant, jewel-like hues of the blooms that this plant is also called ‘Treasure Flower’. The size of the flowers, depending on the variety, ranges from 6-12cm across, with most falling in the 8-10cm range. The flowers are single or semi-double and, like Aster-Family flowers, many-petalled. These ‘petals’ are technically florets – ray florets – because the ‘flowers’ are actually composite flowerheads. What sets them apart from other members of the Aster Family is that many varieties either feature splashy radial striping on the petals or a central dark zone which is usually quite large and prominent. They typically start blooming near the end of spring. The cheery flowers and ‘cool’ foliage are components of what is a sporting, happy-go-lucky plant that is no trouble at all to grow and keeps free from pests and disease but attracts butterflies and birds like there’s no tomorrow. In fact Gazanias are so easy to grow that to all intents and purposes they grow by themselves, and so much so that they are – perhaps a little unfairly – classified as weeds in Southern California, Australia and a few other regions.2 Most Gazania varieties bloom between mid-spring and mid-summer though under the right conditions several varieties bloom right to the end of summer and sporadically in autumn. Habitat & Growing Conditions Gazanias are denizens of sunny, hot and dry conditions and they make do quite well in poor soils in their native habitat of Southern Africa.3 This should not be taken to imply that they should be treated without care but it does mean that they should not be ‘over-cared’ for; specifically, they should not be planted in rich humusy soils or manure, not be over-watered, and not be fertilised except, perhaps, very sparingly in mid-spring. In their native region, Gazania species grow freely in open woodlands, grasslands, scrublands, and semi-arid regions. These plants are invasive in favourable conditions, such as those outlined above. Another habitat it favours is coastal regions as it takes very well to salt-sea spray. Hardiness As most species hardy to H2 and most cultivars hardy to H3, Gazanias can be perennial plants in the United Kingdom with a lot depending on the specific region of the country and the spot in the garden that they are placed in. In the North / Midlands in an exposed location, Gazanias are grown as annuals. Down South by the sea in a sheltered spot, they can often be grown as perennials. In fact, Gazanias are particularly suited to coastal conditions where they also bring an ecological benefit as they control erosion in sandy and dune areas.4 G. rigens How To Grow Gazania Where you plant and how you ‘deploy’ Gazanias is strongly predicated on where you are located (in the United Kingdom) in that whether or not Gazanias can be grown outdoors as perennials. The cultivars of the Kiss Series are one H rating more cold-hardy than the species, unlike those of the Talent Series they are evergreen, and they are decumbent, mat-forming types. As such, they can be grown as a hugely attractive groundcover and can be used to great effect in mass plantings on embankments and slopes, especially in the southern, coastal areas of the country. G. ‘Christopher Lloyd’ They are also wonderful choices for growing in hanging baskets and balconies as their trailing habit will produce a cascading, ‘flowing’ effect. Clumping varieties that have a long blooming season, such as ‘Tiger Stripes’ are just as terrific for borders and edging, especially along walkways. They are also very fine companions in beds with statelier plants whose blooms would contrast strongly with those of ‘Tiger Stripes’ or other Treasure Flowers (though the plants’ different water needs would have to be managed). ’Tiger Stripes’ These little plants are great choices for a sunny windowsill or balcony. No matter which part of the country you are located in, Gazanias will make cheerful annuals be they grown in beds or pots. Gazania Plant Care Gazania is one of those rugged plants that may not respond well to TLC. Conversely, it will positively thrive if treated with ‘tough love’! Accustomed to the heat and sun of Southern Africa and acclimated to dry conditions and poor soil, Gazanias are very easy to grow and need little care as to heat and soil type. The only point on which they need care is extremes of cold as they are frost tender. Preferred Soil The optimal soil for Treasure Flowers is a sand-based loam that is not overly-rich with manure or compost. It must drain very well – these plants do not thrive in moisture-retentive soils. The ideal soil pH is from slightly acidic to neutral, though this plant will be content in soils with pH from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline. Aspect In the UK they should be located in full sun. Gazanias may be started from seed in containers indoors in winter, and transplanted outdoors or moved outside after there is no danger from frost. The advantage of potted Gazanias is that you can move them back indoors at the end of autumn. If they are kept toasty in a greenhouse or any warm spot indoors, they will survive the winter – however, they must get ample sunlight. Before transplanting or moving potted Treasure Flowers outside, they should be hardened by putting them out during the day and back indoors for progressively longer durations. Propagation Gazanias are just as easy to grow outdoors from seed, again after there is no danger from frost. You need do nothing more than push seeds just a tad into the soil and water them…and watch them sprout. You can also propagate this easy-to-grow plant from basal softwood cuttings. Take cuttings from late summer to mid-autumn and plant them in sand-based loam with additional compost or a potting soil in pots. They should be kept indoors or in a greenhouse through the winter but they must get sufficient sunlight. They can be transplanted outside in spring. Whether you grow or transplant Treasure Flowers outdoors, space them 50-70cm apart. “While Gazanias can be propagated by division, they have a tendency to become woody and less floriferous when divided,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. “So, starting in the spring with over-wintered cuttings means fresh, vigorous plants which will flower well over the summer and into the autumn.” Watering Gazanias are drought-tolerant but not ‘damp-tolerant’. Sprinkle water moderately, even in summer – water when the soil has become dry and avoid over-watering these plants. In some rainy regions of the UK you may not need to water outdoor Gazanias for weeks on end. Pruning Treasure Flower plants do not need pruning except for regular deadheading. “It can be tricky to spot which flowers are spent when all the flowers are closed up in the morning and evening,” adds Roy. Therefore, it’s easiest to deadhead during the day when the flowers have opened in the sunshine – spent flowers don’t open, have long stems and can be pinched out. “Watch out for new flowers which also may not have opened yet but are close to the base and still with short stems.” G. ‘Big Kiss Yellow Flame’ However, if you grow trailing or decumbent varieties as groundcover or for a cascading effect, you should judiciously prune, and also train, the plant for shaping and landscaping. Upright or straggly growth should be removed and the plant should be trained and pruned to develop along the ground, or over and down the rim of a basket. Common Problems Gazanias are valued for being resistant to pests and for being disease-free. Occasionally a plant may be attacked by aphids or grey mould, particularly if it is brought indoors or kept in a greenhouse for the winter. Damp soils may lead to root rot. Buying Gazania The United Kingdom was one of the first regions in Europe where Treasure Flower was naturalised, and it remains one of the few countries in Europe where this plant is available at garden centres, if not very widely or in full variety. Potted plants are available, usually in spring, in garden centres and nurseries. Varieties of the Kiss Series and Talent Series are more widely available than most. A very good option is to buy Gazania seeds online. References 1. Gazania. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331621-2 2. Gazania spp. (2017, March). Gazania Weed Management Fact Sheet. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://cdn.environment.sa.gov.au/landscape/docs/hf/gazania-weed-management-fact-sheet.pdf 3. Gazania rigens. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=a517 4. Gazania spp. Gazania. (n.d.). Eyre Peninsula Landscape Board. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://cdn.environment.sa.gov.au/landscape/docs/ep/EPLB_Gazania_Plan.pdf
Learn more
Nasturtiums Are Resilient Low-Care Climbers: Here's How You Can Grow Them Each Year
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting How To Grow Nasturtiums Plant Care Pruning Common Problems References Tropaeolum, commonly called Nasturtium, is a genus of climbing, sometimes creeping, plants that have fantastic ornamental value in terms of their heights and spreads, foliage and flowers. These rather unusual plants typically have a very long blooming season, and their flowers come in an astonishing variety of colours from icy blue to blazing red. “I grow nasturtiums every year,” says Gardener Hannah Reid. “I love nasturtiums for their beautiful flowers and leaves. An additional bonus is that the entire plant is edible – flowers, foliage and seeds, which are amazing pickled!” It is not to be confused with Genus Nasturtium which encompasses Cress species. Nasturtiums are unusual plants on several counts: First, most of them are resilient, if not always strong, climbers though a few have a bushy, spreading habit. Second, their foliage is both uncommon and attractive. Third, their brilliant flowers are even more attractive; what’s more, they bloom for months on end. Fourth, they are very low-care plants. Fifth, they are effective companion plants to a whole host of edible plants. Taxonomically there is a connection to the abovementioned Cress because both Genus Tropaeolum (‘Nasturtium’) and Genus Nasturtium (Cress) fall under Order Brassicales, many of whose members are edible and which have a tangy, peppery, or pungent flavour, with Mustard probably being the ‘Head of the Family’.1 As it happens, Nasturtium flowers and leaves are edible and lend a piquant zing to salads and even soups. Out of Rocket? Not a problem if you have a Nasturtium in the garden. Overview Botanical Name Tropaeolum majus Common Name(s) Nasturtium Plant Type Annual Flower / Climber Native Area South & Central America Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Commonly red, yellow or orange When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months July, August, September, October Though Nasturtiums are deciduous perennials, in most regions of the United Kingdom they are half-hardy and are grown as annuals. However, along the south-western coast and a few other regions, several varieties can be grown as the perennials that they are (though a few varieties, such as T. tuberosum and T. speciosum, can be grown as perennials in almost all regions of the UK). If you are lucky enough to call a relatively balmy region home, you can bring great joy to your garden by growing arguably the most ornamental of all climbers. T. majus To begin with, the foliage is of a mellow sea-green colour. The leaves are decorative in their own right, being either lobed, often deeply, or rounded and shield-shaped. The showy flowers come in hues of yellow, orange and red, but a few are in shades of blue and purple and some are also bi-coloured or variegated. To top it all off, Nasturtiums bloom for months on end, many varieties are fragrant, and the flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds! Habitat & Growing Conditions Tropaeolum grow in the wild from south-eastern Mexico and Guatemala in the north to the tip of Patagonia in the south, excluding Brazil. Some species grow at altitude in the alpine regions of the Andes while others grow in lowland coastal areas; Chile is a particular centre of species diversity.2 T. majus ‘Empress of India’ What is common to all of them is that they are indifferent to soil – as they grow in soils ranging from average down to what can only be typically considered very poor. They are usually found growing in full sun; though their water needs are low they do best in moist soil. The vast majority of Nasturtium species are frost-tender and are hardy (only) to Zone H3. A few species, though, are frost-hardy down to Zone H5. T. speciosum Planting Most Nasturtiums are climbers that attain heights of about 3m. A few, such as T. speciosum and T. peregrinum, can reach heights of up to 4m. An overgrown Nasturtium climber along the wall of a house will impart a charming, country-cottage effect to your urban dwelling. They will produce the same countryside charm when they climb up and wash over boundary walls and fences with next to no training. The shorter, more delicate, Nasturtiums, for example T. azureum, are ideal to plant beside summer-houses, especially when the walls are of latticework – then a few flowers and leaves will ‘peek’ inside. Some Nasturtiums have a spreading, bushy habit. Examples include T. majus ‘Empress of India’ and T. majus ‘Chameleon’. If grown in large planters these species will add great colour and produce a delightful billowing effect by the patio or on the porch. They can actually be used to create borders as well. How To Grow Nasturtiums Nasturtium seeds of the spreading, trailing varieties, are widely available at nurseries and online stores. In addition, seeds of the more popular climbers, for example T. speciosum, are just as freely found. Some, such as T. majus ‘Chameleon’, are much harder to find. Because species of this genus do not take well at all to transplanting, only a few varieties, such as the bushy, spreading varieties, are available as plants in containers from a limited number of garden centres. If you already have a Nasturtium, you may be able to get new Nasturtiums for yourself and your friends. Some species self-seed very reliably. You can often simply let the flowers wither and then harvest the seed pods. Plant Care Most, if not all, Tropaeolum varieties can be grown reliably from (the rather large) seeds. One may as well add that they will just as reliably start to wilt and wither if transplanted. Therefore, do not start these plants in pots for later transplanting though you may very much grow and keep short and spreading varieties in planters. Soil Requirements Besides being very transplanation-averse, these plants have yet another quirk. They do best in poor soil! The richer the soil, the more foliage they will produce at the expense of flowers. A mix of gravel, chalk, and sand with but a sprinkling of humus or manure mixed in will be perfect though any old soil will do. Soil pH hovering around neutral is ideal though any pH from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline will do fine for most Tropaeolum varieties. The one non-negotiable is that soil should drain very well. Watering These plants should be watered about twice a week, be it from the rains or the hosepipe. When the soil dries out, it is time to water them. Younger plants need more regular watering than established outdoor ones. Feeding Avoid fertilising Nasturtiums of any kind. Nitrogen-high fertiliser especially should be avoided because it will spur growth of foliage on an already leafy plant; in turn, this will negatively affect the number and size of blooms. T. majus ‘Jewel Cherry Rose’ Indeed, even a balanced fertiliser would not be a smart idea for Nasturtiums under most circumstances. Overwintering If you have grown a Nasturtium as a perennial in the UK, then, if it is of a type that is dormant in winter and is not frost-hardy (the majority of varieties), soon after the leaves have shed in autumn, you should spread a layer of leaf mulch on the soil above the root system. Remove it a couple of weeks after the last frost of winter. Pruning In general Nasturtiums do not need to be pruned as they are deciduous plants (assuming you can grow them as perennials and not as annuals). “Nasturtiums are so vigorous that, unless you are happy for them to be rampant, you will need to cut back the stems,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Just cut back stems to just above a leaf and your Nasturtium will happily keep growing around whichever area you want clear.” In general, the bushy spreading varieties may be cut back soon after the flowering season is over. Climbing varieties can be deadheaded to encourage fresh blooms. T. majus ‘Black Velvet’ Don’t get caught out by the flowering season and dormancy season of your Nasturtium variety; keep in mind that T. azureum, T austropurpureum, and T. tricolor are all dormant during the summer and bloom in winter and spring. Common Problems Tropaeolum is an inherently healthy genus and is known to stay free of disease but the different varieties have varying susceptibilities to pests. In general, the shorter Chilean climbers are the most robust while T. majus and its varieties are the least robust. Both T. speciosum and T. peregrinum may be attacked by flea beetles and caterpillars with the former also a target for blackfly and the latter for aphids. T. majus and its cultivars are susceptible to blackfly, flea beetles, and caterpillars, in addition to which a lesser threat is posed by slugs. References 1. Nasturtium (water-cress). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/genus/nasturtium/ 2. Tropaeolum majus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:310974-2
Learn more
Which Roses Can You Grow In Pots? These Growers Share Their Secrets For Success
IN THIS GUIDE Which Roses Can I Grow In Pots? Which Compost Should I Use? Caring For Roses In Containers Roses are wonderful plants, and perhaps the most famous flower in the world. Whether your knowledge of roses stops at the single deep red flower held between the teeth of thousands of silver-screen romantic heroes, or extends to the hundreds of cultivars available – an endless rainbow of colours, shapes, and sizes – there’s no denying that they’re something special. If you don’t have the luxury of a large garden with beds for planting and tending flowers, then fear not: growing your own roses is still a possibility. Thankfully, many rose varieties can be grown in pots, giving you the chance to grow roses from your patio, balcony, or even windowsill! Which Roses Can I Grow In Pots? When choosing to grow roses in a container, you need to take special care. Certain varieties aren’t suited at all to container growth, and others require certain conditions to be able to thrive. “I wouldn’t recommend keeping hybrid tea varieties, large Shrub roses or large climbers in containers, as these have an extensive root run and would get stressed being kept in a small space,” says Ben Stirton from Country Garden Roses. As a rule, avoid rambling roses – these are prone to quickly outgrow the confines of a pot, and prefer to be grown in the ground. “Make sure you buy a container large enough to allow the roots to spread and the rose to grow,” advises Colin Dickson, when asked about container care. “Yes, any rose can be grown in a container, but the larger the rose, the bigger the container,” adds Chris Styles from Style Roses. “Choose a heavy, frost-resistant or heavy wooden pot to give weight and support at the base.” Below you’ll find a selection of rose cultivars suited for various pot sizes. Each of the suggestions below has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit, indicating a plant that will grow particularly well in British gardens. Miniature Roses Cultivars in this category are bred specifically for pots, with smaller root systems, less enthusiastic growth, and a smaller overall size. Varieties like Rosa Anna Ford ‘Harpiccolo’ are great examples. The bright crimson flower with mottled orange colouration packs a bold punch for its size, and is a perfect showcase of the character and vitality roses can bring to your garden. These roses lend themselves best to pots with a diameter and height of at least 30cm each. Standard Roses The tumbling white-pink bloom of the Rosa Queen Mother ‘Korquemu’ cultivar (pictured) will look charming in any container, and with a height of 0.5m, overall it’s not too imposing. Standard roses align best with the general conception of what roses should look like, although there is still a large amount of variety within these cultivars. Ground Cover Roses Rosa Berkshire ‘Korpinka’ is a fine example of a ground cover rose that can be encouraged to grow in a pot. The attractive, deep pink flowers with their pretty white centres are an inviting addition to any garden. This type of rose will be fairly low, reaching a height of about half a metre: ideal for a container in a spot where you don’t want too much vertical obstruction. When growing shorter climbing roses, use a pot with a diameter and height of at least 45cm to give them ample space to grow. Shorter Climbing Roses “There are a good selection of patio climbing roses that are happy in a container and can be kept compact by pruning well,” explains Ben. Varieties like Rosa ‘Phyllis Bide’ are suitable for growing in containers. Boasting pink and white flowers with bold streaks of yellow and even orange, these relatively thorn-free roses will make a beautiful addition to your outdoor space. As with ground cover roses, shorter climbing roses will do best in pots with height and diameter of at least 45cm. Larger Roses It’s possible to grow other types of roses in pots, but you’ll need to invest in a container with diameter and height of at least 60cm to give your plant a realistic chance at healthy growth. Roses suitable to this type of growth include shrub, bush, and climbing varieties. “If you use a big pot, don’t be afraid of adding a few companion plants or popping some bulbs in for early season colour,” says Philip Harkness, the Co-Owner of Harkness Roses. “The rose is sociable and it will not sulk if it has to share space.” Which Compost Should I Use? When growing roses in pots, go for something loam-based. This will keep conditions moist and hold a good amount of nutrients, giving your roses a solid foundation for growth. “Always use a John Innes No.3 compost as the growing medium,” suggests Chris. John Innes 2 will also work. You can add multi-purpose compost or manure to make the soil richer, just ensure that manure is nicely rotted down first. Before you plant your roses, mix some rose feed into the compost – this will give your roses the nutrients they need to grow strong from the outset. “I would opt for compact cultivars unless you have space for very large containers,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Roses are hungry for nutrients and moisture and if these aren’t readily available, the health of the plant will suffer. “So, make sure that you have the right plant for the right size pot, the right compost (John Innes 3) and someone to water your roses whilst your on holiday!” Caring For Roses In Containers Once you’ve found the rose variety that suits your needs, the care tips in this section should help you to achieve strong and healthy growth. Location Find somewhere sunny, where your roses will get sunlight for at least half of the daylight hours. “Place the pot in a position that gets at least half a day’s sun,” advises Chris. “Avoid placing deep or dark coloured roses in full sun positions in front of walls, as they’ll get scorched!” Take a look at the specific growing requirements for the varieties you choose to see which aspect they prefer. We recommend filling your container with compost after finding a suitable spot, as this will make it a whole lot easier to carry. Potting Up “The rule is, the bigger the container, the better for the plant,” says Philip. If you’re using bare-root plants, pot them up in November ahead of growing season. If you’re using container-grown plants, you’ve got a longer window: October through to April should do the trick. And if you’re unsure of the difference: Bare-root plants are grown in the ground then uprooted and prepared for sale. Soil is removed from the roots, making them fully visible – hence the name. Container grown plants are grown and sold in a container (shock!), leaving it up to the gardener to transplant them into a suitable container of their own. Watering “Make sure you don’t let the compost dry out and keep your rose nourished,” says Colin. Water your roses regularly, ensuring the soil stays moist. “Roses grown in containers need more feeding and watering than those grown in the ground,” says Ben. “Even when we have a lot of rain, if the rose is in full leaf and flower then the rain doesn’t get into the compost to the roots.” Avoid over-saturating them however, as this can hinder rather than help growth. Where possible, raise your pots above the ground to let the excess water drain out. “I always preferred to water my pots in the morning rather than the evening, so they have the water in the day when they need it,” suggests Philip. You can use bricks, pot feet, or any other secure base to do this. Take a look underneath next time you water to check that the runoff escapes the soil. Fertilising Roses like a fortnightly glug of liquid fertiliser in spring or summer. This will help them to grow strong and sturdy, and will encourage vibrant colouration. “We start to feed our roses as soon as the new leaf starts to come through and then continue this right through the growing season, about every two to three weeks,” shares Ben. Add a dose of rose feed to the soil surface each spring for even more nutrition. “Feed three times a year between spring and mid-summer with a proprietary granular slow-release rose feed,” says Chris. You can top-dress the soil every second year, too – to do this, remove the top few centimetres of soil and add a new, fresh layer in its place. Keep in mind that roses are particularly hungry customers and will do best when fed frequently and adequately. Repotting With the larger varieties of rose mentioned above, you may need to repot every few years to prevent their root systems from becoming cramped. When this is required, use a larger pot with all new compost. Pruning Each rose type has different pruning requirements and attempting a whistle-stop tour risks omitting their specific needs. So instead, we’ll refer you to the instructions that accompany each variety you buy. Taking care to prune as required will give you stronger, healthier, and prettier roses, so this is something we recommend spending time familiarising yourself with. Pests & Problems Roses are prone to attract aphids, so keep a vigilant eye out for green visitors and, god forbid, their small white eggs. If you see either, remove them by hand and check to see whether they return. If so, seek a pesticide. Powdery mildew is also a threat if your roses get too dry. Ensure frequent watering, and if possible keep soil in the shade while the plant is in the sun. Also, be sure to water the soil directly rather than the whole plant.
Learn more
With The Right Precautions And Care, It's Possible To Grow Melons In Your Garden At Home
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Melons Harvesting Common Problems References There’s perhaps nothing as refreshing as biting into a slice of juicy watermelon on a hot day. The cool, hydrating freshness backed by a sweet but not overpowering flavour quite unlike anything else. Then, moving onto the cantaloupe and honeydew melons, we find distinctly delicious variations on the flavour theme. The main melons Of the many melons Mother Nature has chosen to grace us with, these three are maybe the most famous, but they are far from the only ones. Now, you may think melons have more exotic origins than UK growing conditions can satisfy? Think again. With the right precautions and care, it’s possible to get a melon harvest growing here in Britain. And in this guide, we’re going to tell you how to do it. Overview Botanical Name Cucumis melo Common Name(s) Melons Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual Flowers Yellow flowers from which fruit form When To Sow (Indoors) April Harvesting Months July, August, September The name ‘melon’ refers to various plants and fruits in the family Cucurbitaceae.1 Colloquially we say melon to refer to the fruit – usually a fairly hefty, oval affair – although scientifically it refers to the plant as well. There’s competition between ancient civilisations for the accolade of who introduced melons to Europe, with Ancient Egyptians being favourite contenders until the recent discovery of seeds suggesting that the Nuragic civilisation – Ancient Sardinians – may have beat them to it.2 Whoever first brought them here, however, it’s safe to say that they’ve become favourites. And as one of the first crops to become domesticated by humans, and introduced to areas colonised by Westerners in previous centuries, melons have now succeeded in conquering the globe.3 How To Grow Melons When growing melons in the UK, there are a few things to keep in mind. First up: only certain varieties are suitable (and, sadly, watermelons are not amongst them!). Second: you’ll see far better results if you’re able to grow them in a greenhouse or, failing that, under a cloche in a very sunny area of your garden. Where To Grow As we alluded to just now, UK melons are quite fussy in terms of where they will grow. A greenhouse is your best bet, as this most closely simulates the warm conditions they’ve evolved to be used to. A polytunnel or similar structure will work, too. Just make sure it’s somewhere that traps the heat and humidity. If you’ve not got the space for one of these structures (or the time to build one), melons will also grow well in a coldframe, or under a cloche. If using a cold frame or cloche, make sure it’s in a spot that gets full sunlight, is protected against the elements, and is at zero risk of frost. Melons will not do well at all with frost! Sowing Melon seeds will do best if germinated in a propagator. Sow two seeds for each melon you want to grow (you’ll select the strongest one later), and pop them about 2cm into the soil. Place the propagator somewhere warm and well-lit, where temperatures will be between 18-22°C – a sunny windowsill is a good bet. Do this in April. Planting Out When your melon seeds have germinated, discard the weakest of each pair. Then harden off the strongest: keep it outdoors in a pot during the day, and then bring it in at night. Do this for a fortnight to get the plant used to outdoor conditions without being fully exposed to them. “If the plants are to be grown in a greenhouse or cold frame, this hardening off can be done inside these so they adjust slowly to life outside the propagator,” shares Horticultural Consultant Roy Nicol. You can tell when melon seedlings are ready to be planted up, as they’ll have three or four distinct leaves. Prepare a spot for each of your melon plants about a month before planting out. Get rid of all weeds, and work a couple of buckets worth of compost or well-rotted manure through the soil. Then dress with fertiliser to ensure plenty of nutrients are available to the fledgling plants. Melons like rich and fertile soil that can drain well while retaining moisture. Plant your melons into the soil, grow bags or large pots of fertile compost in a greenhouse or cold frame or in the prepared ground if growing under cloches in late May or June after the last frost has definitely passed. Encouraging Growth When your melons are planted, pinch above the fifth leaf. This will encourage side shoots and, when you see these, remove all but the four strongest. This process helps give your melons the best chance to grow strong and healthy. Train your shoots to give each one space to grow. In particularly hot and sunny spells, consider shading the inside of your greenhouse, polytunnel, or coldframe with gauze or similar. This will shade the melons against the most intense light, and protect them from scorching. Ensure the place where your melons are growing is well ventilated, to allow pollination to take place. Unlike some other crops it’s not recommended to pollinate by hand as the flowers are delicate and prone to damage. When the fruits are about the size of a button mushroom, choose the four strongest ones on each stem and remove the rest. Make sure to remove further leaves, flowers, and fruits which develop on the plant. While this may seem a little extreme, it encourages the plant to direct its resources toward making the remaining fruits as big as possible. Pinch out side shoots that appear beyond these fruits. You’re essentially trying to stop your plant from spreading its energy too thinly, which will result in a bunch of small, lacklustre melons. Rest individual melons on a flat, smooth surface rather than allowing them to rest on the soil surface. This prevents damage to the skin resting on the ground, and leads to a more attractive and healthier fruit at harvest time. “If the fruits don’t reach the soil and are hanging down, special nets can be bought to support the developing fruit – alternatively an old pair of tights works well,” shares Roy. Watering Melons need to be kept well watered all the time. Water the soil and roots rather than the areas of the plant above the soil surface. Fertilising Your melons are hungry plants, and will need to be fed every week or so with liquid fertiliser. You’ll know when it’s time to start feeding them as the fruits will be just below the size of an egg. Harvesting Here we are, at perhaps the most exciting part of this guide! Your melons are ready to harvest when they begin to put forth that delicious melon aroma. The fruits may start to crack, too. Simply remove the melons from the stem and bring them indoors. They’re ready to use straight away! Common Problems Melons are, sadly, not exempt from visitations from pests in your garden. Greenhouses and other hot growing environments bring their own challenges, so here’s what to look for. Glasshouse Red Spider Mites If you notice a thin film of webbing over parts of your melon plant and a pale mottling on the upper side of the leaves, you could have Red Spider Mites. You may be able to see the tiny mites on the under side of leaves rampantly feasting on browned and wilting leaves. With this pest, prevention is the best cure. Spritz your melon plants regularly with mist to keep things moist, water the floor of the greenhouse in the mornings and avoid the dry conditions that these visitors like to exploit. Powdery Mildew If you see spots of white powder, almost mould-like in appearance, on the leaves of your melon plant, it’s likely you’ve let the soil get too dry, or the air too hot. “Again, prevention is the best cure and maintaining watering at the roots of the plant is the most effective way to prevent powdery mildew forming,” adds Roy. Brush it off and rectify these two issues to see if the problem is resolved. If not, you may need to remove and destroy affected sections. There you have it: everything you need to get a tasty bunch of melons growing in your garden. While they need a little more TLC than some other plants you could grow, there’s a special charm to tending a crop that isn’t quite at home here. References 1. Chomicki, G., Schaefer, H., & Renner, S. (2019). Origin and domestication of Cucurbitaceae crops: insights from phylogenies, genomics and archaeology. New Phytologist, 226(5), 1240–1255. https://doi.org/10.1111/nph.16015 2. Strauss, M. (2015, August 21). The 5,000-Year Secret History of the Watermelon. National Geographic. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history/article/150821-watermelon-fruit-history-agriculture 3. Cucurbit Biodiversity I: Cucumbers, Melons, and Gourds. (n.d.). Kitchen of Diversity. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.sci.muni.cz/botany/nekola/kitchen/bakercreekatoz/cucumber/biodiversity.html
Learn more
Follow These Guidelines When Growing Marrows For A Bumper Harvest
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Marrows Marrow Plant Care Harvesting Common Problems References Marrows don’t get enough love, really. These long, cylindrical vegetables grow large and quickly, and go a surprisingly long way in the kitchen. Their gentle flavour is fairly versatile, lending itself well to roasting, grilling, and various other cooking styles – and to top it off, they’re easy to grow. Marrows are vegetables closely related to melons, squashes, and pumpkins. They share a similar texture, if not a little squelchier, and have a gentle flavour that acts as a canvas for other flavours to play upon. Overview Botanical Name Cucurbita pepo Common Name(s) Marrows, Courgette, Squash Plant Type Fruit / Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual Flowers Yellow flowers from which fruit form When To Sow April (Indoors), May, June Harvesting Months July, August, September, October Marrows are also very similar to courgettes, which makes sense considering that it’s the same plant. Leave a courgette on the vine for longer and it will keep growing, at some point reaching the right size to be classed as a marrow. Zucchini is the American word for courgettes and it sits in the Cucurbita genus (Cucurbitaceae family) as a common relative of squash, melons and cucumbers.1 The concept of courgettes came later, as gardeners discovered the slight difference in taste between those vegetables left to mature for a longer time on the plant. How To Grow Marrows Marrows like full sun, moisture-retentive soil, and shelter from the elements. Find a spot that fits these criteria, and you’ll be rewarded with a healthy marrow harvest soon enough. Sowing It’s easy to grow marrows from seed, and packets should be available from all good garden retailers. You can sow indoors or outdoors, too, giving you flexibility to choose the method best suited to the space and time available. To sow marrows outdoors, put seeds about 2.5cm deep into the ground. Aim to sow outdoors in May or June. We recommend planting 2 or 3 for each plant you want, in holes close together – cover each with plastic, netting, a cloche or similar to keep pests away, and aim to leave them undisturbed for a couple of weeks after germination. Before the next step, remove all but the strongest seedling. Your plants should be around 1m apart, and the same is true for transplanted marrows. To sow marrows indoors, sow individual seeds about 15mm deep in pots at least 8cm deep; lay the seeds on their narrow sides. You can do this in April as long as temperatures won’t fall below 18°C. Transplanting Marrows need special planting pockets prepared before you plant them out. This involves scooping out about 15 inches squared (width, height, depth) of soil and filling with compost. Do this a couple of weeks before you plan to plant out your marrow seedlings, to ensure the young plant has all the nutrients it needs as soon as it hits the ground. Make one planting pocket for each plant. Alternatively, thoroughly fork the soil in the area where you’re planting and add generous amounts of organic matter, such as home-made compost. If you sowed your marrow seeds indoors, you’ll need to harden them off before planting out. For one week leave the plants outdoors during the day and bring indoors overnight. Then, the next week, leave outdoors in a very sheltered spot for the whole week. This will get them acclimated to outdoor conditions, without shocking them too much that it’ll cause damage. If you’re not keen on starting seedlings indoors or outdoors you can buy young marrow plants from garden stores, and these are ready to plant directly into the ground. Using Growbags / Containers Marrows also grow well in containers or growbags; just make sure the container is big enough! Diameter and height should be at least 45cm. With growbags, don’t plant more than two marrow seedlings in a bag otherwise it’ll get crowded. Whatever method you choose, aim to plant out your marrows in May or June. Marrow Plant Care Watering These big plants need plenty of water to keep healthy. Take care to water the soil, not the plant, as overly moist conditions topside can lead to damage. If possible, dig a small hole next to, or shallow moat around, next to the marrow, taking care not to damage it, and water into that will ensure that the water goes to the roots rather than the parts of the plant just below the soil. Hydrating roots rather than plant material reduces the risk of rot. Feeding Once you spot your first fledgling marrow, feed the plant fortnightly with a liquid fertiliser high in Potassium. Doing so will encourage more growth, giving you bountiful marrows further down the line. Plant Support Not many vegetables need this step, so you may not have seen it before. We recommend placing each marrow on a flat surface (like a tile) to keep it away from the soil. This prevents scuffing on the bottom, and should lead to better-looking veggies at harvest time. Harvesting When the marrow is at the size you want it, simply pluck it from the stem. Marrows are often ready to harvest in July and will continue to ripen until October, giving you a long harvest season. And if you’re not feeling patient, remember you can harvest small marrows as courgettes. Common Problems Marrows are prone to a few issues, but knowing what you’re up against is usually enough to prevent catastrophe. Here’s what to keep an eye on. No Fruit / Stunted Growth In years with poor weather in the early summer, you may find that your marrows are small or non-existent. This is caused by lack of adequate pollination and will, when the weather gets better, resolve itself. Just be patient and prepare for the eventuality of harvesting a little later than initially planned. Mould Sometimes you’ll find blankets of grey mould covering parts of your marrow plant. This is more likely in humid conditions, providing a good reminder of why it’s important to water the roots, rather than the top of the plant. If you do see mould, remove and destroy the infected areas to prevent the issue from spreading elsewhere on the plant. “As well as grey mould, powdery mildew, which forms a white coating on plants, can be a common problem with marrows,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “I find it usually develops on stressed plants, such as those spaced too close together, watered irregularly or overfed. “Slugs will also devour young plants. I’ve found wool pellets to be a useful defence, which additionally can be used to mulch marrow plants. Mulching is useful for retaining soil moisture.” Soon you’ll be singing the overdue praises of this currently unsung vegetable, welcoming it into your kitchen and exploring the myriad ways it can be used. References 1. Cucurbita pepo (marrow). (2022). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.17069
Learn more
Design The Perfect Patio Space With This Advice From Top Garden Designers
IN THIS GUIDE Essential Elements For A Perfect Patio General Design & Layout Tips Think About Sunlight & Shade Consider Privacy Be Practical Planting Inspiration Use Surrounding Planting Decide On A Style & Colour Scheme Choose Plants That Work For The Location Creating the perfect patio is important if you want to use your garden to entertain this coming summer, and throughout the year. The perfect patio really can turn your garden from a pretty and productive space into a space where you really want to hang out and spend time. One of the most important things to remember if you want to create a perfect patio is that there really isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution that will work for every garden and every individual. It is important to think carefully about your site, and about what you really want before you determine all the choices for the patio and what surrounds it, as Humaira Ikram, an award-winning Garden Designer explains: Click the image for a full-size illustration of our perfect patio space “It’s really important to think about how you want to use your garden and build it from that. If you want it to be a space for entertaining, build your garden around a seating area. “Don’t be afraid to plant everywhere – surround yourself in nature. You can use plants to divide your garden up into sections you want it to be. Also, doing some research on what plants you should grow is really useful!” But if you want to make sure you have a party-ready patio, to welcome friends and family and to enjoy the natural world, then there are certain features that most patios will share. Below, we’ll take a look at key elements, some design tips, and some planting suggestions that could help you create the perfect outdoor ambience for entertaining this summer. Essential Elements For A Perfect Patio Somewhere to eat outside (and perhaps somewhere to cook or prepare food outside too). An area with comfortable seating – a relaxation or ‘chill out’ zone. Surrounding planting – in planters, raised beds, containers, or edging beds or borders. (A patio will derive much of its character and charm from the plants that surround it in your garden, so you cannot just think about hard, man-made elements alone.) A heat source – a fire pit or chiminea is wonderful as a focal point. It can create the right vibe as well as allowing you to enjoy the garden into the evening and after dark. Eco-friendly lighting can also be a useful feature. Clever and sensible lighting solutions can set the mood, and again, make it easier to enjoy your garden when light levels fall, and late into an evening. Of course, there are plenty of other elements that you may wish to add. For example, you might like to create a covered area so you can sit out in all weathers, and/or structures for shade – but these core things are usually close to the top of the list. These are some of the first things you should consider. In our suggested patio plan above, you can see one way in which these different elements could be combined for great results. General Design & Layout Tips When designing the perfect patio, once you have decided on the main elements you would like to include, you need to think about how to combine those elements to create the perfect overall design for your space, and your particular wishes. Here are some general design and layout tips to think about as you create your patio plan: Think About Sunlight & Shade Many people in the UK will wish to position a patio where there will be as much sun as possible. A south-facing position can be perfect to maximise rays, but sometimes, shade may be beneficial. It can be nice to have a sunny spot which enjoys afternoon and evening sun for dining – but in a seating area, it might be nice to be able to sit in the shade, as well as in full sun. These things should always be considered in the layout. A dining area relatively open to the south and west can be great. A seating area open to the south and east can be a lovely spot for a morning cup of coffee, but may be nicer if shaded at least in part during the afternoon on hot summer days. But be sure to think about your particular garden, and when and how you personally want to use the space. Consider Privacy Privacy is a key consideration, especially in city or town gardens which can often tend to be overlooked, as Flo Headlam, Garden Designer & TV Presenter, shares: “Sometimes, you might want to screen off a patio for some privacy from the rest of the garden. This means you might want to grow things at a taller height.” Some people are worried about how privacy can be achieved without casting excessive amounts of shade. Fortunately, there are many solutions to consider. Remember, you don’t necessarily need to choose large trees or other dominating plants to obtain a sense of privacy. Blocking sight lines with smaller trees – such as a small fruit tree in a pot, or partially screening an area with taller perennials or ornamental grasses, for example, can often achieve a private feel without making a small patio garden feel hemmed in (or casting too much shade). Be Practical Sometimes, creating the perfect patio is about a trade-off between gaining the best environmental conditions, and being as close as possible to the back door of your home. “Use lots of pots around a patio,” suggests Garden Designer Ann-Marie Powell. “I think once you’ve designed your garden, it’s kind of done, but if you’ve got pots, it can change up what you’re wanting to do every single year. “Once gardening gets its roots into you, which it will, then you’re constantly going to be interested in experimenting with new plants, so pots are great for this.” It can be beneficial to have a patio right outside the back of your home, though do think about the fact that, depending on your home’s orientation, that might not always be the perfect spot. Balance the needs for practicality with the characteristics of the space to make sure you reach the best possible layout and design. Think about how easy it will be to carry food and drinks out from your home. And consider steps to make the space as comfortable and useable as possible throughout the day and throughout the year – no matter what the conditions. These were some of the core considerations which went into creating our suggested patio plan. While this exact layout and design might not be perfect for you and your particular site, it should give you a place to start when designing a patio for your garden. One other thing to emphasise is that practicality also means being practical when it comes to the materials and solutions you choose to create your new patio. For budgetary reasons, and environmental ones, we recommend that you try to opt for natural or reclaimed materials as much as possible. As you can see in our suggested plan, raised beds surrounding the main entertainment areas have reclaimed wood bed edging. Wood-toned decking and warm sandstone paving or terracotta tiles could also be reclaimed. And broken tiles could also be used to create the decorative mosaic feature around the fire pit. Glass bottles and other such materials can be useful in the creation of light lanterns – and can also be used in a wide range of other ways in your garden. Containers, and the trellis suggested on the west-facing wall of this suggested design could also be made from natural or reclaimed materials. Planting Inspiration Unfortunately, when people try to create the perfect patio, planting is often not a primary concern, but planting really is the thing that will make or break a patio design. “It really comes down to thinking about your senses and what’s going to stimulate them, and usually, it’s colour, smell and movement,” explains Danny Clarke, a Gardening Expert and TV Personality. The plants you choose can play a key role in creating the right environmental conditions; they can determine not only the look but also the overall feel of the space. Use Surrounding Planting It can be a good idea to create planting that cocoons or surrounds the main entertainment areas. This can not only make the space feel more private, it can also create a calm and cozy feel. The key is to choose plants which are beautiful, and perhaps which smell wonderful too – and to select plants which add to the appeal of the space without making it feel too hemmed in or constricted. Curved, circular and more organic shapes might not be the first options which spring to mind, but breaking out of a box-like mentality, and breaking up squares and rectangles, can be a good idea. “Consider vertical gardening more than anything,” Danny says. “You could install an arch at the top of a patio that you could walk through, which you could add a climber, like Clematis armandii, which has a lovely scent, especially in the spring and summer months. “Star jasmine is another great climber that could go over an arch and has a great scent. “It also looks good and has lovely creamy flowers that are star-shaped, hence the name.” More natural and sinuous shapes for patio entertainment areas can help the space feel more welcoming and can also help to blend in the patio area with the rest of your garden. Our plant choices are designed to create a diffuse barrier between the patio and the rest of the garden, which will provide an intimate and enclosed feel without overly restricting light or views of the rest of the space. Taller perennials, like Lupins and Agastache at the centre of the bed, and shorter plants towards the edges create soft shapes and interesting texture and shape combinations that add to the feel of the patio zone. Decide On A Style & Colour Scheme Of course, the shapes and style you go for are up to you – stylistic preferences can be a very personal thing. But to create a cohesive style, it is important to determine your own style preferences before you begin. Are you looking for a natural and rustic look? Or do you prefer something much more sleek and streamlined? Our own design shows a potential scheme for a patio with a relaxed and organic feel; one which will work well for garden wildlife, as well as for you. Some people might worry about placing plants which will attract wildlife close to where they want to sit and dine – but having a patio space where you can hear buzzing bees, watch butterflies and other insects, and the birds, really can enhance the space. In fact, with plenty of flowering plants to attract them, the insect life is far less likely to bother you. It can be a good idea to have a colour scheme in mind for the planting around your patio. By choosing two or three key colours, and choosing plants within that colour scheme, you can create a relaxing and beautiful design that feels more cohesive, and less busy. We’ve chosen a range of plants that will work well for a sunny, south-facing patio, largely in shades of green, lilac and blue. Choose Plants That Work For The Location While you may get a lot more use out of a patio in the summer months, it is a good idea to choose plants that look great over as much of the year as possible. Perennials offer great value for money as they will come back year after year, whilst annuals are great for pollinators, as Ann-Marie explains: “For me, annuals are super important, and I have a couple of beds at the edge of my patio deck with tons of pots where I just experiment with new combinations and plants. “I think with growing annuals, you can sow directly into pots and you don’t have to have the labour and intricacies of sowing and potting on. “You’ll be amazed at what you can achieve and year after year it will look very different for you.” Our plant choices for this example design aim to provide blue and lilac blooms throughout as much of the year as possible, with some evergreens to preserve a green, lush feel even through the winter months, and interesting ornamental grasses which fit in with the colour scheme. Plants in our design: Evergreens like Ivy, Ceanothus, Bay, Rosemary, Lavender etc. Culinary herbs like Bay, Rosemary, Hyssop, Agastache, Echinacea etc. Beautiful flowering shrubs/ sub-shrubs: Lilac, lavender, hyssop, lithodora diffusa… Beautiful herbaceous perennial flowers: Lupins, Veronica, Agastache, Salvias, perennial Cornflowers, Eryngium etc. Ornamental grasses – e.g. blue festuca grasses. Edible plants: patio fruit tree, cardoon, and many common annual crops in pots and containers, including edible climbers which can be grown up the trellis against the fence. As you can see, in our design, we’ve not just thought about planting for ornamental appeal and wildlife, we’ve also suggested that it is a wonderful idea to grow culinary herbs, fruits and vegetables in pots, close to areas where you will be sure to keep a close eye on them. “Any plant with any scent is great and colour, of course, is also important,” says Danny. “Tactile plants that are nice to feel are also good choices.” “I think it’s always nice to have scent around patio areas, but it depends on the light levels and orientation as to what you can plant,” Flo agrees. “If your area is in full sun, you can plant lavender or other aromatic plants around the patio and may also want to think about evergreen plants as well. “If it’s near the house, it might be something that you want to look good all year round. “Ornamental grasses or plants that generate a lot of movement in the wind are also nice to have around patios.” There are also a wide range of edibles you can grow in a patio container garden – from fruit trees to annual crops. Trellising to one side can enliven a fence, and allow you to grow edible climbing plants. Our design also highlights another key issue – water. Harvesting rainwater is a key sustainable strategy that will help you maintain your container garden throughout the year. When designing a patio adjacent to your home, it can often be a good idea to consider attaching a collection barrel or butt to a downspout from your guttering. Of course, there are many considerations and things to think about when creating a patio perfect for summer parties and entertaining family and friends. Hopefully this article and our example patio design will inspire and help you figure out the perfect plans for your own particular garden.
Learn more
