Growing
Planting Rhubarb As A Fantastic Addition To A Low-Maintenance Food-Producing Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Rhubarb? Planting Rhubarb Companion Planting Rhubarb Plant Care References Rhubarb is a vegetable that often masquerades as a fruit – but it is far more than just that and can be a very useful addition to your garden. As a perennial vegetable, rhubarb can be a fantastic addition to a low-maintenance food-producing garden. Unlike annual and biennial crops, perennial vegetables like rhubarb will return to provide you with an edible yield year after year. Overview Botanical Name Rheum x hybridum Common Name(s) Rhubarb Plant Type Perennial Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Foliage Deciduous When To Sow January, February, March, October, November, December Commonly cultivated culinary rhubarb plants are classified as Rheum x hybridum. Interestingly, no one knows exactly how these modern culinary garden plants were bred, or their exact origins. Two different species – R. rhabarbarum and R. rhaponticum were grown in Europe prior to the 18th Century.1 By the early 18th century, these two species and a hybrid of unknown origin – R. x hybridum, were commonly cultivated as vegetable crops in the UK and elsewhere in northern Europe.2 The wild plants hybridise easily, and many cultivars have been developed. Culinary rhubarbs share a number of characteristics with their wild cousins, but have botanical distinctions. People often question whether rhubarb is a fruit – and botanically speaking, it is not. It is a vegetable because the part of the plant that we eat is the leaf stalks or stems, known as a petiole, not a fruit.3 However, in culinary settings, rhubarb is often treated like a fruit, since it is used to make sweet dishes in similar ways. Rhubarb has a strong, tart taste, and while the stems can also be eaten raw, they are usually cooked and mixed with sugar or other sweeteners to make pies, crumbles and other desserts or preserves. Why Grow Rhubarb? Rhubarb can be a useful way to enhance your homegrown fruit and vegetables. Growing perennial plants in general can be a very good idea – they bring a range of benefits for the garden including: You will need to do less work in sowing and planting. Perennial plants like rhubarb only need to be planted once and will last a number of years. While annual crops will involve work annually to continue to enjoy them in your garden. You’ll need to do less ongoing work maintaining soil too. Growing areas with perennial planting typically require far less care and weeding over time. You will also typically spend much less time watering or fertilising perennial crops than you will maintaining an annual garden over time. As a perennial vegetable, rhubarb can be a great thing to grow for all of the reasons outlined above – but more specifically, it can be a very useful garden plant. Rhubarb provides a yield during what was historically known as the ‘hungry gap’. This was the time between winter stores running low, and late spring / early summer harvests.4 So growing rhubarb means that you will have food from your garden all year – even during times when, historically, there is far less homegrown food available. This is especially true when the rhubarb is forced to bring forward the harvest. Planting Rhubarb Rhubarb will do best in a sunny location, which has fertile and moist yet free-draining type of soil. “I fess up – I’ve had to bend the rules on shade to get rhubarb to establish well,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “I find that in the sunniest spots, it tends to bake a little too much, whereas in partial shade, I find it is less likely to dry out. Even with generous watering, I’ve known this plant to have a near-unquenchable thirst. “That is true of the summer, whereas in the winter, sitting too wet would be a problem.” Make sure you do not place rhubarb in a frost pocket or an area that becomes waterlogged in the winter months. Young shoots emerging from rhubarb crowns. Rhubarb is usually grown from crowns – dormant rhubarb crowns will typically be planted between autumn and early spring. Position the rhubarb crown so that the very top of the crown just emerges from the soil surface. Generally speaking, it is best to leave a space of around 80cm between the plants. Rhubarb can also be grown in containers, as long as they are a minimum of 50 cm deep and 50 cm wide. When planting, it is a good idea to add a mulch of homemade compost or well-rotted manure around the plant. This will act as a slow-release fertiliser and retain soil moisture, but make sure you do not bury the crown or leave mulch piled closely around it or it can rot. You can also purchase pot-grown rhubarb plants throughout the year. These can be planted out at any time, but to avoid transplantation shock, it is best to avoid planting out on very hot or dry days in the summer. Companion Planting Rhubarb works very well as one of the plants in a perennial growing area with edible plants. It typically grows well beside other perennial plants – perennial alliums (chives and elephant garlic, for example). Rhubarb also has a scent said to repel whiteflies, and so it can be a useful companion plant for members of the cabbage family. This means it can work well in a perennial bed alongside perennial brassicas such as Daubenton’s kale, tree cabbage, and ewiger kohl, for example. Place strawberries close to rhubarb, since these will be beneficial as ground cover. They will spread to keep weed growth down and help retain soil moisture. A number of perennial aromatic herbs can also be beneficial as companion plants. Rhubarb Plant Care Make sure that the rhubarb gets enough water throughout the year, so the plant keeps growing right through to autumn. Make sure that you provide water during any dry spells. You can also consider optimising yield and vigour by adding a general-purpose organic fertiliser in March. Other than this, however, rhubarb really will require very little care. You have the option of forcing the rhubarb, but you do not have to do so. You can also divide a mature plant – allowing you to increase your yield over time. It can also be a good idea to remove the dead leaves when the plant dies back naturally in the autumn, and to clear debris around the crown. This will help make sure it is exposed to frost, which helps break dormancy and ensures a good crop of stalks the following year. “It is a favourite of the slug population in my garden in early spring, so using wool pellets as mulch is a good idea,” adds Peter. References 1. Mahr, S. (n.d.-j). Rhubarb, Rheum rhabarbarum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/rhubarb-rheum-rhabarbarum/ 2. Rheum hybridum (rhubarb). (2022, January 7). CABI Compendium. Retrieved August 14, 2023, from https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.47109 3. Pettit, S. (2015, March 18). Rhubarb. Hatfield Peverel Allotment Association. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.hpaa.org.uk/index.php/vegetable-fruit-growing/275-rhubarb 4. What actually is The Hungry Gap? (2021, March 31). The Community Farm. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.thecommunityfarm.co.uk/news/what-actually-is-the-hungry-gap
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Growing And Harvesting Rocket: 'Sown Rocket Avoids The Problem Of Bolting'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Rocket Harvesting Rocket Common Problems References If you like pepper, spice, and leafy greens, Bingo! Your prize is Rocket, a plant whose leaves have a spicy, peppery kick. With a pleasant kick that can be variously peppery, spicy, tart, tangy, and even pungent, this leafy green is both a herb and a salad leaf. Rocket is the vernacular name for varieties of Hesperis matronalis, a flowering plant, Diplotaxis tenuifolia, a different but similar leafy green, and, indeed, nearly 20 other plants! Almost all of these ‘Rockets’ are edible leafy greens with a sharp flavour. As for Diplotaxis tenuifolia, it is a perennial that is called ‘Wild Rocket’ – it has a sharper, more intense flavour than Salad Rocket and its varieties. Overview Botanical Name Eruca vesicaria Common Name(s) Rocket, Arugula Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Annual, doesn’t overwinter Flowers White flowers When To Sow April, May, June, July, August, September Harvesting Months June, July, August, September, October, November, December Plants of both genera, Eruca and Diplotaxis, are classified under Family Brassicaceae – the Mustard Family.1 It is little wonder that these plants’ leaves (and other parts as well) have the sharpness and pungency, to some or another degree, that we associate with mustard. This article concerns itself with both kinds of Rocket. Though Salad Rocket or Garden Rocket is the more widely-known and widely-grown, Wild Rocket is seeing an upsurge of interest. Habitat & Growing Conditions Rocket species are native to Italy and the Mediterranean regions; growing as far east as China.2 They, particularly Wild Rocket, are tough plants that can thrive in poor-quality soils. They colonise all kinds of ground so rapidly that they are considered weeds or invasive plants in some parts of the world, such as Australia and Arizona.3 These plants, having spread from their native regions, now grow readily in temperate locales. A halfway decent loam mix will be just fine for growing Rocket plants. For optimum results prepare loose soil with some organic manure. The soil should drain well. Soil pH may range from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. The plant will grow well in full sun and also part shade. How To Grow Rocket Regular Salad Rocket plants in pots are widely available at nurseries and garden centres. Wild Rocket is also available, just not as widely. Seed packets of each are also found at garden centres. Seed packets of the more recent cultivars are available online at specialist seed merchants. You are sure to find a few pots of a couple of special varieties at a garden centre that has a good herb-and-veg focus. Growing Salad Rocket From Seed Salad Rocket can be sown in a heated frame from February and outdoors from April onwards. Whether you sow it in beds or pots, both the plant and its use lend themselves to successional sowing. It may be sown every two to three weeks for a continuous supply of fresh leaves through to autumn. If planting in a bed, sow seeds in rows. Cover seeds loosely with a layer of soil of about 0.5cm. Seeds should be sown 3-7cm apart and rows spaced about 30cm apart. If planting in pots, sow seeds two or three to a terracotta pot of about 25cm diameter. Give the freshly-sown seeds a good watering so that the soil becomes well wet. Watering Salad Rocket, an annual, can be a tricky balancing act. If plants are not watered well enough and the soil becomes dry, they will bolt (run to seed). On the other hand, keep watering them a little too well and the leaves will lose their kick and become bland. The trick is to keep the soil just moist. Weed the bed or pots as you normally would. As the seedlings grow, thin them so they are about 15cm apart or one to a pot – the thinnings should not find a place in your compost pile but on your kitchen table! If the weather gets hot and your plants are exposed, they must be protected from the hot afternoon sun otherwise the leaves will lose their tenderness and flavour. You can also start off Salad Rocket in autumn. “I find that autumn sown Rocket avoids the problem of bolting that can happen as a result of hot summer days, particularly as I grow mine in a greenhouse,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Once Rocket has bolted, I find the taste too bitter, so avoiding this is crucial to my crop.” It can be grown indoors in pots in a sunny spot that gets sufficient sunlight through the morning, and can be grown outdoors if it is protected by horticultural fleece. Growing Wild Rocket From Seed Wild Rocket may be grown the same way except that as it is a perennial you do not need to worry about sowing it again the following year. They are also not prone to bolting. Grow as many plants as you need and then judiciously harvest leaves as you need them on a true ‘cut and come again’ basis. As long as a Wild Rocket plant is not severely harvested or over-harvested it will survive through the winter if it is protected with fleece or in a cloche, and continue supplying you with greens the following spring. Harvesting Rocket Leaves from plants are ready for picking about one month from sowing. Pick bigger, older leaves for a more intense taste and for cooking purposes; Rocket can be cooked like spinach. Pick smaller, newer ones for a gentler flavour for using raw in salads or as garnish. Pick two or three leaves from each plant, harvesting several plants at a time. Do not over-harvest a single plant. Flowering When you notice a plant putting out buds, you have a choice. Cut off the stalks to redirect the plant’s energies to the leaves, or allow the buds to bloom and then harvest the flowers for use in the kitchen. Likewise, you can also let the flowers wither into seed pods and then harvest the pods – both seeds and pods are edible. Finally, you can simply allow some selected plants to flower and then run to seed so that they self-seed; thus, your supply of Rocket plants and leaves will continue automatically. In hot and dry weather do not let the soil dry out and stay dried out, otherwise the leaves will have a harsh, bitter taste. Common Problems Rocket varieties are generally disease-free. The one pest you need to keep a watch for is flea beetle, particularly at the seedling and young plant stage. If you anticipate an attack by flea beetles you can try to head off the problem by growing the plants under fleece. Otherwise release beneficial predators such as ladybugs and ground beetles, or use safe organic sprays. Bolting is a particular problem with Salad Rocket though not with Wild Rocket – follow the guidance above to avoid bolting. In addition be sure that plants are not too close and are about 15cm apart or one to a pot. References 1. Eruca sativa (Brassicaceae(mustard family) in karnataka). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/guide_taxa/338656 2. Eruca vesicaria. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:1137625-2 3. wall rocket, Diplotaxis tenuifolia. (n.d.). Invasive.org. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.invasive.org/browse/subinfo.cfm?sub=14695
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How To Grow And Harvest Spinach: This Crop Can Provide A Yield All Year Round
IN THIS GUIDE Overview ‘True Spinach’ Vs ‘Perpetual Spinach’ Why Grow Spinach? Common Varieties Where To Grow Spinach Companion Planting Spinach Plant Care Harvesting References Spinach is a core crop to include in your vegetable garden, whether you only have a small container garden, or extensive kitchen garden beds. It can be eaten raw in salads, as a steamed green, or in a range of other dishes – you can even consider adding it to your fruit smoothies and juices. Read on to learn more about this useful green vegetable, and how to grow and care for this crop in your vegetable garden. Overview Botanical Name Spinacia oleracea / Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris Common Name(s) Spinach Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Central & West Asia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Can overwinter with protection When To Sow March, April, May, August, September Harvesting Months Year-Round First of all, it is important to understand that there are a couple of different plants which are referred to as spinach. ‘True Spinach’ Vs ‘Perpetual Spinach’ The first is ‘true spinach’ – Spinacia oleracea – and the second is ‘perpetual spinach’ – Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla var. cicla. This is technically a chard, though it tastes very similar to a true spinach. Both can be excellent choices for your garden – but it is important to understand that they have somewhat different needs and requirements. True spinach is now known only in cultivation, but is believed to have originated in central and western Asia. Chard of the leafy spinach type is in the Cicla cultivation group, though within the same species as the Flavescens Group which includes stalk types of chard – like Swiss chard.1 True spinach is usually annual, while perpetual spinach is usually biennial; it also has summer varieties and winter varieties.2 Spinach is a crop which can be enjoyed year-round – but you do have to choose the right varieties/cultivars and sow and plant them at the right times. Perpetual spinach is typically a little easier to grow, and is highly recommended if you are interested in harvesting spinach from your garden practically all year round. Why Grow Spinach? Spinach – both true spinach and perpetual spinach have a great flavour. They are both great leafy vegetables to grow. This is a crop that can provide you with a yield all year round, and it is pretty easy to grow. To maximise yield from your garden, I would highly recommend that you consider growing both. Though if you have space only for one, then perpetual spinach will usually offer the best yields for the time and effort you expend. This is also the better choice, often, for less experienced gardeners. Spinach can be a great addition to polyculture planting schemes – it can work well to provide ground cover between taller growing crops, or to make the most of the space between slower growing crops. Common Varieties When choosing spinach, you will of course first have to decide whether you will grow true spinach, or perpetual spinach (or both). ‘Red Kitten’ For true spinach, some good varieties include: ‘Amazon’ – Sow in spring or autumn for overwintering. ‘Apollo’ – Sow outdoors March-August. ‘Matador’ – Sow in spring or autumn. ‘Medania’ – Again, can be sown in spring or autumn (with protection) ‘Missouri’ – Slow to bolt, good for spring sowing. ‘Red Kitten’ – Sow spring or early autumn (with protection). Red-veined F1 spinach. ‘Securo’ – spring sowing, potentially also August/September. ‘Winter Giant’ – for August/September sowing, for overwintering. There are also named varietals of perpetual spinach, including: ‘Erbette’ ‘Everglade’ Make sure that you choose varieties which are suitable for the time of year when you plan to sow. True spinach of F1/hybrid types can be more bolt-resistant – but choose heritage crops if you want to save your own seeds. Note that if you plan on saving seeds, perpetual spinach will cross readily with beetroots and chards. Perpetual spinach is biennial and usually flowers in its second year. If you want a variety to stay true to type you will need to isolate it with a physical covering. If you are interested in leafy greens, one other thing to note is that spinach is not your only option. Other interesting leaf vegetables that are similar to spinach but which you may not have considered include: Amaranths Belleville sorrel Fat hen / Goosefoot (Chenopodium) Orach Vegetable mallow (Malva crispa) And of course, related to perpetual spinach, there are plenty of other interesting chards to choose from to add variety to your garden and enjoy a range of crops for salads and cooked greens. Purple orach Where To Grow Spinach Spinach can be grown in containers, in raised beds, or in the ground. It is a flexible plant that can work well in a range of situations as long as its fertility and water needs are met. If soil conditions are poor, be sure to amend the area before planting by topdressing with a good-quality organic mulch of homemade compost or well-rotted manure. Summer spinach will do best when grown in a partially shaded spot. This can help to avoid the problem with ‘bolting’ – plants running prematurely to seed. However, spinach sown later in the year will do best in full sun conditions. Spinach and other leafy greens are ideal for growing in vertical gardens, planting towers, and other small space gardening solutions. One other interesting thing to note is that spinach is a leafy crop that can also do well when grown not in soil or growing medium, but in water. Spinach is one of the crops that you can consider growing in a number of different hydroponic or aquaponic water-based growing systems. Companion Planting When deciding where to grow spinach, you should think not only about the plant itself, its needs and local conditions. You should also be sure to think about the neighbours in the growing area. Companion planting can help you make the most of your garden space, and it can help you succeed in your spinach growing. The ‘Great GROW Experiment’ in 2018 was a citizen science project which investigated the benefits of growing climbing beans, spinach and radishes in polycultures together. 70% of the participants found that, overall, polycultures were significantly more productive.3 Largely, the beans were more productive for being grown with the spinach and radishes, but spinach and radishes also had slightly higher yields. Many other gardeners have reported success with growing spinach alongside other crops. Spinach is often grown intercropped with slower-growing Brassicas (members of the cabbage family) to make the most of the space. That includes plants like kale, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Radishes are another quick-growing crop that can work well alongside spinach, as can a variety of lettuce crops. Lettuce, radishes and spring onions are all quick and small space requirement crops that can work well alongside spinach in smaller beds or planters, or a container garden. Summer spinach will benefit from being grown under/between peas or beans. These crops fix nitrogen, and will also provide shade to prevent bolting in summer crops.4 Tomatoes can also be useful in providing shade for summer spinach, while the spinach can improve ground cover below tomatoes and reduce moisture losses. It is also said to grow well alongside celery, and alliums (members of the onion family, as well as alongside strawberries. It is said that spinach should not, however, be grown alongside grapes, or hyssop. Spinach Plant Care Caring for true summer spinach means making sure that there is good fertility in the growing area (low fertility may cause bitterness in the leaves) and that the growing area remains consistently moist. Maintaining water means keeping up watering during dry periods. It also means mulching around the crops with nitrogen-rich organic matter, and providing shade, which can also help to prevent bolting. Caring for later sown true spinach and perpetual spinach crops involves making sure your plants are protected from frost – either in an undercover growing area (greenhouse/ polytunnel) or under cloches, straw mulch etc. from October onwards. All spinach can be susceptible to birds, which may eat your crop. Where this is an issue, use a physical cover to protect your plants. To reduce the chances of spinach downy mildew in mild and humid weather, ensure good ventilation at all times and avoid overcrowding. Harvesting One of the great things about spinach is that you can begin to harvest baby leaves after as little as 6 weeks or so. You can harvest the leaves continually as and when you need them as soon as they are large enough to pick. Spring sown true spinach can be picked from May right through (providing they have not bolted) to October. While winter true spinach cultivars can be picked (though a little less prolifically) throughout the rest of the year. Perpetual spinach can be harvested and enjoyed all year round. “To harvest, cut leaves close to the base using scissors,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “You should find that early harvested leaves should come again for harvesting after 6 weeks. “I like to harvest from the outside into the centre to get the most out of each plant. “Spinach starts wilting almost instantly after being harvested and does not last long on the plant once matured, so I advise cutting when you are ready to use them straight away.” References 1. Chard. (n.d.). Wild Flower Finder. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://wildflowerfinder.org.uk/Flowers/C/Chard/Chard.htm 2. Spinach. (n.d.). Agriculture and Food Development Authority. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.teagasc.ie/crops/horticulture/vegetables/spinach-perpetual—veg-guide/ 3. The Great Grow Experiment. (n.d.). Permaculture. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.permaculture.org.uk/research/great-grow-experiment 4. Nitrogen Fixing Bacteria – Rhizobia. (n.d.). Tropical Permaculture. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.tropicalpermaculture.com/nitrogen-fixing-bacteria.html
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Growing And Tending To Highly Productive Asparagus With Horticulturist Dan Ori
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Asparagus? Common Varieties How To Grow Asparagus Soil Requirements Polycultures Planting Crowns Tending Asparagus Common Problems Companion Planting Harvesting Asparagus Alternatives Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that can provide you with a useful, edible spring yield over a number of years. While most gardeners who grow their own will focus on annual and biennial crops, choosing some perennial edibles can also be an excellent idea. They are a great choice for low-maintenance gardens, and once established, typically require less care than most typical annual or biennial fruits and vegetables. Asparagus is a delicacy, prized for its delicate flavour. Though it will not be an ideal choice for all conditions, it can find a place in many UK gardens. Overview Botanical Name Asparagus officinalis Common Name(s) Asparagus Plant Type Perennial Vegetable Native Area Europe & West Asia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Bell-shaped, greenish-white flowers When To Plant Crowns March Harvesting Months April, May, June Asparagus, also known as garden asparagus or Asparagus officinalis, to give it its official name, is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant in the genus of the same name. It is a common edible crop, and perhaps one of the best-known perennial vegetables. The young shoots of the plant are typically eaten as a spring vegetable. Asparagus has been cultivated as an edible crop for a very long time. Only the young and tender shoots are consumed, since once the buds begin to open, the shoots quickly become woody. Its short harvest season means that it has long been viewed as a delicacy, and highly prized. Why Grow Asparagus? Asparagus is useful as a vegetable that will return to provide edible shoots year after year. Choosing to plant asparagus is a long-term investment that can continue to add value in your garden for a long time to come. As a perennial, Asparagus is a low-maintenance plant, which you can more or less forget about over much of the year. Asparagus season is a highlight on the local food calendar here in the UK – and since asparagus can be expensive to buy, growing your own at home makes a lot of sense. Common Varieties Some common and highly regarded asparagus varieties for the UK include: ‘Guelph Millennium’ ‘Backlim’ ‘Connovers Colossal’ ‘Gijnlim’ ‘Pacific 2000’ How To Grow Asparagus Asparagus favours a sunny and open site, but can tolerate light, dappled shade. Soil Requirements It will thrive in light, open soils, that are well drained. While asparagus is not hugely fussy about soil type, in areas with a higher clay content in their soil, or heavy clay soil, may find this a plant that is more difficult to grow. Though even clay soil gardeners can grow asparagus in beds that have been amended to improve drainage with plenty of organic matter. Asparagus will prefer a soil with a PH in the region of 6.5-7.5, so if you have a more acidic soil, you will find asparagus cultivation more challenging. Liming will usually be required if you wish to grow asparagus on particularly acidic sites, but it may be better to consider other perennial vegetable options. Polycultures Asparagus was traditionally often grown in a dedicated asparagus bed. One issue with this, however, is that the bed will be underutilised and will remain free, with bare soil, for much of the year. One great alternative to this is to create polycultures, growing asparagus in the same bed as other plants that require similar growing conditions. Asparagus can be grown alongside other perennial crops, or grown within annual vegetable beds. We’ll explore this idea of companion planting a little later in this article. Planting Crowns Asparagus can be grown from seed, but it is more common to plant asparagus crowns. Asparagus crowds are one-year-old plants, which are typically purchased and planted towards the end of the dormant period. Asparagus crowns are usually planted in March or April. They are placed into growing areas that have been well prepared in winter early spring. To prepare for asparagus planting, you should make sure that the bed has been well mulched with organic matter, or that a living green manure or cover crop has been sown to protect the soil and suppress the growth of annual weeds over the winter months. If a cover crop or green manure has been used, the material will be chopped and dropped prior to planting the crowns. If the soil in the growing area is lacking in fertility, you can consider adding an organic fertiliser such as blood fish and bone to the area in early spring. To plant asparagus crowns: Dig a trench around 30cm wide and 20cm deep. Add well-rotted manure or homemade compost to the bottom of this trench, then cover the base with a 5cm layer of the soil that was excavated. In the centre of the trench, add a 10cm high ridge, and place the crowns on this ridge. Space the crowns around 30-40cm apart. Spread out their roots evenly and replace the rest of the soil, making sure that you leave the bud tips just visible above the soil surface. If you are making multiple rows, make sure these rows are at least 40cm apart. Once you have planted your asparagus crowns, mulch well around them with a 5cm layer of balanced, nutrient-rich, weed-free organic matter. Tending Asparagus Weeding Creating polycultures and ensuring good soil coverage with non-competing or minimally competing plants is the best way to reduce weed growth in an asparagus growing area. Any problem weeds that do pop up must be removed carefully by hand, because asparagus plants have shallow roots that can easily be damaged if you use a hoe. Frosts If a late frost threatens, protect plants with row covers or cloches to avoid frost damage on tender new shoots. Another thing to consider is that asparagus can also be grown undercover in a polytunnel or other undercover growing area. This can bring earlier harvests, and also avoid problems in colder regions. Watering Asparagus is known as a fairly drought-tolerant crop, but the plants will do best if the soil around them is consistently moist, though free draining. In dry conditions, be sure to water regularly during the summer months. Support In a less sheltered position, asparagus plants that have grown taller and feathery in the summer might need to be given some support to avoid damage. This support might be provided by other plants in a polyculture, or by man-made twig/cane and twine support structures. At the end of the summer, asparagus plants should be left to yellow and begin to wither before you cut them down to soil level. Common Problems Slugs & Snails Slugs and snails can be a problem – especially for young asparagus plants. The best way to control these pests in your garden is to make sure there are plenty of natural predators in your garden to eat them. Certain birds, amphibians, and mammals can all be beneficial – so make sure you plant as diversely as possible and create habitats to attract this wildlife to your garden. Asparagus Beetle Another common pest species that can plague asparagus is the asparagus beetle. Overwintering beetles can be destroyed by burning old stems at the end of the season, but companion planting may also help, to a degree at least, in preventing an infestation. And again, improving plant and wildlife biodiversity is key for integrated pest management in an organic garden. Companion Planting Tomatoes One of the best-known companion plants for asparagus is tomatoes. The tomato plant is said to be efficacious in repelling the asparagus beetle – and asparagus may aid tomato plants too, by repelling certain root nematodes that can affect tomato plants. The extent to which companion planting benefits can be proven varies, and often, recommendations are anecdotal, but many gardens report good results from this companion planting combination. In any case, planting tomatoes in the same bed as asparagus can help you make the most of the bed after the asparagus harvest and throughout the rest of the summer season. Basil & Parsley Planting basil and parsley around tomatoes and asparagus can also be beneficial. These plants too may help in repelling the asparagus beetle, and will create good ground cover to suppress weeds and retain moisture around tomato plants. Crop Rotation Of course, unlike asparagus, tomatoes and basil are annually grown crops, and tomatoes should be part of a crop rotation scheme. They should not be grown in the same bed year after year or pests and diseases can build up. Fortunately, asparagus can also fit in with other crops in rotation. For example, you can sow beetroots, lettuce and other leafy crops between asparagus rows in the spring, then successionally sow lettuce, spinach and other leafy greens beneath the taller asparagus fronds in the summer months. You can also include flowers in asparagus polycultures – borage, marigolds and nasturtiums, for example. Companion planting with other perennial plants also works well. For example, you could consider creating a perennial bed with asparagus, strawberries, rhubarb, horseradish, comfrey, and certain perennial herbs. Just make sure that you do not sow alliums (onions, garlic etc.) close to asparagus. And do not plant potatoes too close to asparagus, mostly since harvesting them will disrupt the shallow asparagus roots. Harvesting “An Asparagus plant can be highly productive for over 20 years, but they take a while to establish,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I recommend not harvesting in the first year and only lightly harvesting in the second year.” As Dan suggests, asparagus crowns sown in March or April should not be harvested for the first two years after planting, to allow the plants to become established. This may seem a long time to wait, but be patient. Remember, once you do begin harvesting, you can continue to do so for 10-15 years to come. After the first two years have elapsed, you can begin to harvest asparagus spears for a period of 8 weeks, usually from mid-April for outdoors grown plants. It is best to harvest shoots every 2-3 days in warm weather in order to obtain the best quality spears. Simply take a sharp knife and cut spears off just below the soil surface, when they are no more than 18cm tall. Asparagus Alternatives If you have a heavy clay soil, or are dealing with a more shaded site, then asparagus may not be the best perennial vegetable for your garden. Interestingly, there are a couple of different plants that might grow better in your garden that also provide edible shoots, and which are sometimes described as ‘poor man’s asparagus’. One is Chenopodium bonus-henricus (also known as ‘Good King Henry’). ‘Good King Henry’ This is a great forest garden plant, surviving well in dappled shade beneath fruit trees or in other perennial planting schemes in dappled or partial shade. Young shoots can be peeled and used just like asparagus, and young leaves can later also be eaten in moderation. Hops (Humulus lupulus) can also be grown in partial shade, and hops shoots are considered a delicacy. When young and green, these too can be sliced off and eaten in exactly the same way as asparagus.
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Growing Brussels Sprouts With Ade Sellars - A Useful Crop At The Coldest Time Of Year
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Brussels Sprouts? Common Varieties How To Grow Brussels Sprouts Companion Planting Plant Care Harvesting References Brussels sprouts are one of those vegetables people either love or loathe. But for many, either way, they are considered an integral part of the traditional Christmas dinner and can be a useful part of the diet over the coldest part of the year. Like many other brassica crops, they can be a great addition to homegrown crops and are a good choice for those who want to grow their own all year round. Brussels sprouts are, admittedly, not the easiest brassica crop to grow, but they are a vegetable that even novice gardeners can take on. As long as you remember a few basic things, you should find that you are able to grow this crop successfully, wherever you live in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera Common Name(s) Brussels Sprouts Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Large, green (edible) leaves When To Sow Indoors February to April Plant Out May to June Harvesting Months January, February, March, September, October, November Brussels sprouts are a leaf vegetable in the Gemmifera group of cabbage family plants (Brassica oleracea).1 As such, they are Brassicaceae (brassicas), also known as cruciferous vegetables. They have long been popular in Brussels, Belgium, from which city they take their name – it is believed that they were cultivated there from around the 13th century.2 Brussels sprouts can grow at any temperature between around 7-24°C. The greatest yields form at temperatures of around 15-18°C. Typically, Brussels sprouts are harvested and eaten between September and March. Brussels sprouts are a biennial plant, which completes its lifecycle over two years. Why Grow Brussels Sprouts? One of the main reasons to grow Brussels sprouts in your garden is that, like other brassicas or cruciferous vegetables, they are tasty and easy to grow. Many people dislike sprouts because they have only tasted them boiled to oblivion. But even those who think they dislike this vegetable may feel differently when they taste roasted sprouts, as cooking them in this way (and not overcooking) brings out their flavour in a different way. You may also be surprised by how much better sprouts taste when picked from the garden rather than being bought at a store. One of the other main reasons to grow Brussels sprouts at home is that they provide you with fresh homegrown vegetables in the coldest and darkest part of the year, when little else is available from an outdoors vegetable plot. Common Varieties There are a number of different varieties of Brussels sprouts ideal for UK gardens. Some good choices include: ‘Brodie’ ‘Clodius’ ‘Crispus’ ‘Doric’ ‘Igor’ ‘Maximus’ ‘Red Ball’ ‘Red Rubine’ ‘Roodnerf’ Some are F1, and some are heritage seeds. Most are green, though some, as the names suggest, have red and purple hues. How To Grow Brussels Sprouts Sowing Brussels sprouts are a crop that is typically sown from February until early April. Seeds are sown indoors, undercover in a greenhouse or polytunnel, under cloches or in a cold frame. Seeds should be spaced thinly, around 1-1.5cm deep. If sown directly into the soil, seedlings should be thinned to at least 7.5cm apart. Though seeds can germinate with temperatures as low as 4°C, germination rates will be highest at temperatures above 7°C. Planting Out Your Brussels sprout seedlings should then be transplanted to their final growing positions during May and early June, when your young plants will be 10-15cm tall, and have around 7 true leaves. Seedlings should be well watered before they are transplanted, then watered in well after they are placed into your vegetable garden. In most cases, you should aim to space your Brussels sprouts around 60cm apart. When choosing a location for Brussels sprouts, note that they can thrive in any sunny and sheltered position. They can cope with some light shade, but a sunnier site will provide better yields. Brussels sprouts can cope with a range of different soil types, but will do best in a rich soil, with a neutral to alkaline pH (above 6.5). Acidic conditions can increase the likelihood of problems with club root. Where the soil is affected with club root, growing in containers may be a better option. Before planting your Brussels sprouts, add plenty of organic matter, such as homemade compost or well-rotted manure, to the growing area. When planting, ensure that you firm the soil well around the plants, to make sure the root systems are not damaged by wind rock. “Planting them slightly deeper and burying their lowest leaves improves stability,” says Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Lecturer and Gardening Technician at Bedford College. “Remember that these plants can be badly affected by wind-rock.” Companion Planting In an organic garden, it is always best to adopt a holistic and integrated approach. You should consider the different ways in which your crops can be combined and in which additional companion plants can be added to aid the sprouts, and the system as a whole. Of course, it is common to sow Brussels sprouts in the same bed as other brassica crops. Planting these in the same growing area will make it easier to maintain a crop rotation system and make sure brassicas are not grown in the same bed year after year. Of course, other brassicas like similar conditions, so can grow well in the same area. Unfortunately, though they can be good companions, brassicas share pests and diseases. This means that it is not a good idea to grow exclusively brassicas in one bed. For integrated pest management in an organic garden, you should grow brassicas alongside other companion crops. Mustard, which is another brassica, can act as a trap crop when grown close by. But for pest management, you should also consider sowing Brussels sprouts alongside, for example: Onions Leeks Garlic Aromatic herbs (mint, thyme, rosemary, sage, dill etc..) Marigolds Nasturtiums Geraniums Since Brussels sprouts require a wide spacing, and are fairly slow to mature, it also makes sense for companion plants to take up the spaces between your plants as they grow. Try planting these fast-growing vegetables between your Brussels sprouts to make the most of the space: Carrots Beetroot Radishes Lettuce Spinach As nitrogen-hungry plants, Brussels sprouts may also benefit from growing legumes, such as peas, as companion crops.3 Avoid planting strawberries close to Brussels sprouts, however, as strawberries can suppress their growth. You should also avoid planting Brussels sprouts too close to other heavy feeders, such as squash, sweetcorn, tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes – and any other members of the nightshade family. Plant Care Watering Water Brussels sprouts every 10-14 days in dry weather. Water plants at the base, and make sure you have mulched around the plants to retain moisture in the soil, particularly during the warmest summer months. Fertilisation As nitrogen-hungry plants, brassicas like Brussels sprouts will benefit from a nitrogen-rich organic mulch. And will also appreciate the addition of a high-nitrogen organic fertiliser (such as dried chicken manure pellets, for example) after midsummer. You might also choose to make a nitrogen-rich liquid plant feed to give the plants a boost around July. “You could make this feed by brewing a plant nettle tea, leaving nettle leaves in a sealed container of water for around 6 weeks,” says Peter. Pest Protection Brussels sprouts, like other brassicas, are susceptible to pests – most common and notable among these are the caterpillars of cabbage white butterflies, and birds. Birds (like pigeons for example) can quickly eat up an entire crop if they are not protected. It is a good idea to place netting over Brussels sprouts and other brassica, which is sturdy enough to prevent birds from eating your crop, yet has a fine enough mesh to keep off butterflies and prevent them from laying their eggs on your crops from which caterpillars will emerge. Though companion planting will aid with pests to a degree, sometimes a physical barrier will be required. This should be in place from May to September. Support Around September, it can be a good idea to mound up the earth around your tall Brussels sprout plants, to provide them with a little more support before autumn winds and stormier, wilder weather arrives. “It may be easiest to make a box-shaped frame, around 1-1.5m high, around your plants,” shares Peter. “This can support netting at a far enough distance away from plants, to prevent egg-laying and pecking through the mesh. “The frame can be held up by canes or stout poles, to which the plants can be tied for support.” Harvesting Brussels sprouts are usually harvested from September through to March. It is worth noting, however, that Brussels sprouts are one of a number of vegetables which taste better after the first frosts. The cold triggers metabolic processes through which starches break down into plant sugars – so Brussels sprouts that have been exposed to frosts and freezing temperatures will taste a little sweeter than those that have not. Start by harvesting the lowest sprouts on the stem when they are tightly closed, firm and around the size of a walnut. Snap each one off with a sharp tug downwards – you can leave the plants standing in your garden and take a few more sprouts as and when they are required over the winter. References 1. Brassica oleracea (Gemmifera Group). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/brassica-oleracea-gemmifera-group/ 2. Brussels Sprout. (n.d.). DPI. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://dpi.wi.gov/sites/default/files/imce/school-nutrition/pdf/fact-sheet-brussels-sprout.pdf 3. Companion Planting Guide. (n.d.). First Tunnels. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://www.firsttunnels.co.uk/page/Companion-Planting-Guide
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Want To Grow Asters? Don't Miss These Great Options With Care Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Asters? Growing Options How To Grow Asters Planting Companion Planting Aster Plant Care Watering Mildew Issues Feeding Deadheading & Cutting Back Division References Asters, also known as ‘Michaelmas Daisies’, are popular herbaceous flowering perennials that look wonderful in many UK gardens. Whether you are trying to create a traditional cottage garden feel or more modern prairie-style planting, Asters can be a go-to choice. They look lovely – and can be great for the bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects that visit your garden. And of course, what is good for the wildlife in your garden is good for you as a gardener too – since the rich biodiversity makes it easier for you to grow your own food and derive other yields from your organic garden. Overview Botanical Name Aster Common Name(s) Michaelmas Daisies Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Eurasia Hardiness Rating H6-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Star-shaped flowers in different colours Flowering Months August, September, October When To Pinch Out Tops July When To Deadhead September, October The genus Aster once included over 500 different species of perennial flowering plant from Eurasia and North America.1 However, research during the 1990s led to North American species being reclassified into different genera – such as, for example, Eurybia and Symphyotrichum.2 Nonetheless, these North American species are usually still referred to as Asters. In this article, we will include and run through these species too – since the care and growing tips for these plants are often the same or very similar to the (roughly 180) Eurasian species in this genus. Aster amellus The term ‘Aster’ comes from the ancient Greek for ‘star’ – the name refers to the shape of the flower head.3 The genus Aster is part of the large Asteraceae plant family, also known as the ‘daisy’ or ‘sunflower’ family.4 This is a huge plant family with over 32,000 different species, many of which are common garden flowers.5 Aster tripolium There is actually only one native Aster in the UK – the Aster tripolium, or sea aster.6 Another species formerly known as Aster linosyris is now known as Galatella linosyris. However, many Asters from Europe and North America, and hybrids derived from them, can be grown easily and successfully in UK gardens. Why Grow Asters? Asters take their common name – Michaelmas Daisies – from the fact that they mostly bloom in late summer or early autumn. They can be excellent choices where you want to make sure you have flowers in bloom in your garden over as much of the year as possible. They take over where summer flowering blooms leave off – and can bridge the gap between the summer and autumn seasons in your garden. Aster x frikartii ‘Monch’ Asters can grow in all UK hardiness zones and can be useful for attracting wildlife to your garden. They can be beneficial for pollinators, and are important food plants for the larvae of a number of common butterflies and moths. Another benefit of growing Asters, of course, is that these perennials will return to bloom in your garden year after year. And like many other perennial plants, they will require very little care, so could be a great choice for a relatively low-maintenance garden scheme. Growing Options Symphyotrichum novi-belgii There are a great many different Asters that you might consider choosing for your garden. Some great options for UK gardeners include: A. alpinus A. amellus A. x frikartii (A. amellus x A. thomsonii) A. herveyi (Eurybia x herveyi) A. tongolensis (e.g. ‘Beggarten’) Symphyotrichum laeve (e.g. ‘Calliope’) S. novae-angliae (e.g. ‘Harrington’s Pink’) S. novi-belgii (e.g. ‘Dasthree’, ‘Island Series’, ‘Samoa’, ‘Algar’s Pride’) S, ‘Ochtendgloren’ (pilosum var pringlei hybrid) “Callistephus chinensis, the China aster, is a fantastic plant that is often overlooked as it is an annual,” shares Dan Ori, Master Horticulturist. “However, it can be sown directly to the soil in spring each year. “There are many varieties available including the Duchess series, which has flowers that are Chrysanthemum-like and come in single, semi-double, and double forms. “They range from 20cm to 70cm in height, giving you lots of options for pots and borders and he taller varieties work exceptionally well as cut flowers.” When choosing Asters for your garden, the size and hues of the blooms are one thing to consider, but you should also think about the typical height of the plants. Since this will determine whether they will work best towards the back, in the middle, or near the front of a bed or border on in a container – some Asters are much taller than others. See a full breakdown of Aster varieties in this post. How To Grow Asters Asters look great in herbaceous perennial borders, especially alongside other perennial flowering plants and meadow grasses. They are right at home in a prairie planting scheme – the flowers are cheery and colourful, and a number of varieties also make excellent cut flowers. They can be great for a traditional cottage garden, but many varieties can also work well in a more contemporary scheme. These perennial flowers will thrive in almost any soil type, ideally one that is moist but well-drained to well-drained. They will usually do best in areas of full sun though many varieties can also cope with partial or dappled shade. Many varieties are also excellent for growing in containers. Remember to place Asters in a location which suits their appearance and form – and note their eventual height when deciding where to place them. Avoid placing taller Asters in a location that is too exposed, where they may be subject to wind damage. A border of Asters and tall perennial grasses can also have wider applications. For example, it can be used to ‘borrow’ landscape from beyond the edges of a rural garden – tying in the garden with farm fields beyond. A border of perennial flowers and grasses might also screen another part of the garden from view, or partially obscure a view without entirely blocking it. Planting Aster seedlings or cuttings should be planted out, typically, between March and May. This is also the time when you should plant out Asters as potted plants that you have purchased for your garden. Asters should typically be placed with a spacing of around 40cm between plants. Companion Planting Asters are versatile perennials that will work well alongside many other herbaceous perennials in a bed or garden border. Asters look fantastic alongside other herbaceous perennials for summer and autumn including: Achillea millefolium Caryopteris Chrysanthemums Echinacea Helenium Phlox Rudbeckia Salvias Veronicastrums And alongside a wide range of ornamental grasses such as: Stipa Molinia and Calamagrostis, for example. Aster Plant Care Caring for Asters does not require a lot of work. Aster x frikartii ‘Wunder von Stafa’ In fact, when placed in the right locations, Asters will require very little care and be a great choice for a low-maintenance garden. Watering Keep the soil well-watered, but do not let Asters sit with wet feet. Watering problems are the most common reason for one of the main issues that Aster growers can encounter – mildews. These flowering plants can be rather prone to mildew problems; over-watering is one of the most common causes. Typically, in normal UK conditions, watering in addition to natural rainfall will not be required (unless they are grown in containers). In drought conditions, or when growing in containers, a thorough soaking every two weeks should be sufficient to see them through hot and dry periods. Mildew Issues Consistent watering, but a well-draining medium or soil, and good air-flow around the plants can help to reduce the likelihood that this problem will occur. Avoid overcrowding your plants – and do not water too much. If you experience a lot of problems with mildew in your particular garden, then it could be a good idea to look for more mildew-resistant cultivars or varieties. Feeding Asters typically do not require particularly high levels of nutrients; fertilisers will not typically be required. Usually, it will be enough to simply mulch around the plants with a good quality organic mulch, which will act as a slow-release fertiliser over time. When growing in pots, however, or to improve very poor soil, you may wish to add blood fish and bone or another organic fertiliser a couple of times during the flowering period. Deadheading & Cutting Back Deadheading the plants and getting rid of spent flowers can also help to reduce the incidence of any problems of this type. Deadheading will also keep them looking good for longer and will encourage them to produce more flowers. To get as many flowers as possible from your Asters, you should pinch out top shoots at midsummer, then deadhead as you go. I like to cut back my Asters hard after flowering finishes in autumn. Division Asters should also be divided every four years or so. This will help the plants to retain their vigour, and prevent clumps from becoming overly congested. For the health of the existing plant, I find it best to divide mature Asters in the spring, just as new growth begins. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.). Aster species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/AB/Aster 2. Why Do Plant Names Change? (2014, July). RHS the Garden. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/about-the-rhs/publications/the-garden/the-garden-back-issues/2014-issues/july/plant-name-changes.pdf 3. Definition of aster. (n.d.). In www.dictionary.com. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/aster 4. Petruzzello, M. (2015, October 9). List of plants in the family Asteraceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Asteraceae-2040400 5. Asteraceae. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/113579929 6. Aster (Sea) / Sea Aster. (n.d.). Wild Flower Finder. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://wildflowerfinder.org.uk/Flowers/A/Aster(Sea)/Aster(Sea).htm
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Don't Ignore These 5 Essential Monstera Care Tips For Incredible Fenestration
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Swiss Cheese Plant? 1) Grow Them In Bright, Indirect Sunlight Fenestration 2) Make Sure There Is Sufficient Drainage 3) Water When The Top 2 Inches Are Dry 4) Wipe Your Leaves And Mist To Maintain Humidity 5) Take Cuttings In Summer To Clone Your Plant References Monstera deliciosa, otherwise known as ‘Swiss Cheese Plant’ is a common houseplant to grow indoors. It is a subtropical plant which I like to place in a bright area indoors – usually with indirect light, and moderate to high humidity. In certain parts of the UK, it may also be grown in partial shade in a sheltered, frost-free area, but it is more common (and much more straightforward) to grow this subtropical plant as a houseplant in our temperate climes. Overview Botanical Name Monstera deliciosa Common Name(s) Swiss Cheese Plant, Ceriman, Custard Plant Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Mexico to Panama Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Lily-like white flowers, followed by conical cream fruit When To Sow (Indoors) Year-Round Flowering Months June, July This species of flowering plant is native to subtropical and tropical forests in Mexico and further south as far as Panama.1 Its common name as a houseplant ‘Swiss cheese plant’ comes from the holes that develop in the leaves, which resemble the holes in some Swiss cheeses. The same name is also sometimes applied to Monstera adansonii, which also has holes in the leaves. However, Monstera deliciosa is more common and is the main subject of this article. The holes develop through a process known as ‘fenestration’.2 It is believed that the holes develop as a mechanism to allow as much light as possible through to lower foliation. M. deliciosa takes its botanical name from ‘monstrous’ – a reference to the large size to which this plant can grow in its native range – and ‘delicious’, a reference to the edible fruit. Unfortunately, however, while the plant flowers readily in the subtropics and tropics, forcing it to flower and fruit outside its native range proves extremely difficult. Specific conditions need to be met for the plant to flower, and it is very rare to see this in the UK or elsewhere when the plant is grown indoors. The M. deliciosa is a member of the arum family (Araceae).4 It is an epiphyte climber, with aerial roots.5 In its native range environment, it can grow up to 20M high, growing up trees towards the light. Even in indoors cultivation, it is a large plant, which can grow to 4-8M and 1.5-2.5M in width if given the opportunity (and grown in a large enough container). Why Grow A Swiss Cheese Plant? M. deliciosa can be a dramatic houseplant – wonderful for adding to an interior design, in a home or office space. It has large glossy leaves, and looks fantastic inside a home of work place. Its architectural qualities mean that this is a plant that can tie a room together. Swiss cheese plant is ideal for growing inside because it can tolerate a reasonably wide range of conditions. It can cope with bright, indirect light and will thrive at temperatures between 20-30°C. However, they will continue to grow at temperatures over 18°C – and can survive down to as low as around 10°C (M. deliciosa has an RHS hardiness rating of H1B).6 They can endure for numerous years when provided with the appropriate conditions. 1) Grow Them In Bright, Indirect Sunlight Swiss cheese plants are usually plants which require very little care. The most crucial thing is to make sure they are in a light location, but not in direct sunlight. I find that it is best to position your plant a few feet away from a window that lets in plenty of light. Remember that your plant will need plenty of room to grow. Do not place your houseplant too close to a radiator, stove, or other heat source – or, near the draft from a door, window, fan, or air conditioning unit. Fenestration If larger leaves do not show holes (‘fenestration’) then this can be because there is not sufficient light. “Think about a forest canopy where shafts of light break through the branches above,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is the environment you are trying to replicate for your Monstera.” Younger leaves will not perforate immediately, but mature leaves should do so. If mature leaves do not have holes, move the plant to a brighter spot. Brown patches on the leaves can be due to scorching from the sunlight – move the plant out of direct sunlight if you encounter this problem. 2) Make Sure There Is Sufficient Drainage As well as finding the right location for your M. deliciosa, it is also important to choose the right container and growing medium. The container should be deep, and have drainage holes at the base. A heavier container (such as a terracotta or stoneware pot) is ideal, since it will be less likely to tip over and better able to support the weight of the plant as it grows. Remember, as a climber, a Monstera will ultimately need a moss or coir pole as support to cling to with its aerial roots. The container should be filled with a peat-free, all-purpose compost or similar. You should make sure that there is a minimum of one inch of medium around the root system of the plant in all directions. 3) Water When The Top 2 Inches Are Dry One of the most common mistakes people make with this easy and low-maintenance plant is watering too much. It is better for the soil to be on the dry side; how often you will need to water will depend on where exactly you live, the temperatures, season, light levels and other conditions. Without any outsider knowledge, you will have to rely on your own finger: Stick it into the growing medium to see whether the top two inches of the compost mix is dry. When they are, you should water well. Always allow the water to completely drain through afterwards – don’t let your plant sit with wet feet. Remember, your houseplant will typically require far less water during the winter months, especially if you place it in a cooler room. If you water too much, or the excess water does not drain away properly, you may see leaves yellowing and wilting. You may also see ‘tears’ of water at the edges of the leaves. The compost should always be just damp, and never waterlogged. Wilting leaves may be a sign of a problem – showing that you are watering either too much or too little. Check the growing medium to see whether it is too wet or too dry – and also take a look at the roots – it may be time to repot. It can be a good idea, for best results, to feed your plant with an organic houseplant feed around once a month during the spring and summer. 4) Wipe Your Leaves And Mist To Maintain Humidity Since the plants need sunlight for photosynthesis, it is important to keep them clean so the light can get through. The large leaves on a M. deliciosa will tend to attract dust, so it is important to give them a wipe every now and then with a damp cloth. This will keep them looking good – but more importantly, allow plant processes to continue as they should. Wiping over with a damp cloth can also help to keep up humidity levels around the plant. In a dry, centrally heated space, it can also be beneficial to mist the leaves from time to time to keep the humidity up in a drier environment. 5) Take Cuttings In Summer To Clone Your Plant You can also very easily take cuttings from a mature plant – perhaps to give away the mature plant to someone with more space, or to increase your houseplant collection. Cuttings can be taken in springtime or early in summer: Choose a stem which has aerial roots beginning to grow in its lower portion. New roots grow from the white or brown buds across from a leaf. Using a sharp implement, slice through the stem an inch or so below the aerial root. Place this stem into a container with a little water in the base, so the aerial root is underwater. Place this container in a bright spot out of direct sunlight. Replace the water every couple of days, and after 1-2 weeks, new roots should emerge. After lots of roots have formed (usually after 4-6 weeks have elapsed) you can take your cutting and pot it up. References 1. Lachelin, L. (n.d.). Monstera deliciosa. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/MN/Monstera 2. Muir, C. D. (2013). How Did the Swiss Cheese Plant Get Its Holes? The American Naturalist. https://doi.org/10.1086/668819 4. Monsteras and more: at home with arums. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/garden-inspiration/houseplants/monsteras-and-more 5. Kelly, P. (n.d.). What Are Epiphytes? Jacksonville Zoo and Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.jacksonvillezoo.org/blog/posts/what-are-air-plants 6. Monstera deliciosa (F) | Swiss cheese plant. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/11192/monstera-deliciosa-(f)/details
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This Is How Horticulturists Grow Broad Beans As An Early Summer Favourite
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Broad Beans Harvesting Broad Beans Common Problems References Grown by early humans many thousands of years ago and now going stronger than ever, Broad Beans are an early summer favourite.1 These tasty treats are oh-so-easy to grow and are also equally easy to prepare in the kitchen and are available in many varieties, each with its own merits. This legume, called Fava Beans in North America and also Faba Beans, is popular just about everywhere on all continents bar Antarctica and is cooked and consumed in myriad ways.2 Its Botanical name Vicia faba indicates its membership in Family Fabaceae which includes all the legumes, beans, and peas.3 Overview Botanical Name Vicia faba Common Name(s) Broad Beans Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Mediterranean, Central Asia Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Broad, oval-shaped leaves Flowers White flowers with black spots When To Sow February, March, April, May, October, November Harvesting Months June, July Fava Beans are just about the only beans in Genus Vicia, colloquially called the ‘Vetches’. Various Vetches or Vicia species are eaten in the wild by ruminants. They are an easy-grow fodder for livestock and also serve as ‘green manure’ for the replenishment of depleted soil. V. faba is an annual with an upright habit though most varieties are not stiffly upright. As the more genteel and refined members of the very large, rough-and-tumble Vetch Family, V. faba lack any tendrils with which to grasp and clamber over other herbs and shrubs. In windy regions they frequently bend or flop over. For a plant that is valued for its vegetables, V. faba bears unusually pretty, even ornamental, flowers; what is more, they are very fragrant. “I love broad beans for the delicious early crop of beans but also because they look great,” says Colin Skelly, who has been awarded the RHS’ Master of Horticulture status. “I grow cultivars called ‘Crimson Flowered’ (spring sown) and ‘Superaguadulce’ (autumn sown). “The latter provide an early crop of beans and the latter really attractive flowers and a delicious later crop.” Like other plants in the Pea Family, its flowers have irregular corollas of Papilionaceous form. The corolla comprises of two lower ‘keel’ petals, two outer ‘wing’ petals, and an upper ‘banner’ petal. These petals are usually white or very light and have two very dark, often black, spots on the wing petals, and finely-etched lines on the banner petal. Habitat & Growing Conditions Though the Vicia genus is a rugged one with most species growing in poor soils and withstanding inhospitable conditions, Broad Beans – which, after all, are a domesticated species – are certainly not rough and tough like their country cousin vetches. Soil Requirements These plants flourish in full sun and in rich soil that has good drainage and contains ample organic manure. Taking a (well-drained) bed of a fertile loam mix, spreading a light layer of manure over it, and mixing it in will provide excellent soil for Broad Beans. Do not sow Broad Bean seeds in clay-rich soil as the seeds will likely rot and not germinate. The ideal pH is between pH 6.0 and 7.0 – Slightly Acidic. Shelter & Temperature These plants need protection from high winds; accordingly, they should be grown in sheltered spots. If no such location is available then a windbreak may prove necessary. The ideal ambient temperature to grow Broad Beans is between 10 and 20°C. Soil temperature should not exceed 24°C. Keep in mind that as a leguminous crop Broad Beans is a nitrogen-fixing plant that boosts the fertility of the soil it is grown in.4 Therefore, you can use the same soil the following year to grow such plants that need nitrogen-rich soil. How To Grow Broad Beans Sowing You can sow Broad Beans seeds outdoors in late October or November for an early harvest. Autumn-sown seedlings will germinate, overwinter outdoors, and start growing again in spring after the temperature crosses about 4.5°C. Many (though not all) varieties’ seedlings will be fine so long as they are in a sheltered spot with Southern exposure. Otherwise, you will have to protect them with fleece or cloche or germinate them indoors or in a greenhouse for later transplanting. To grow in the easiest, most trouble-free way, sow seeds outside when the minimum temperature is no less than 4.5°C and daytime temperature crosses 10°C. This will be sometime in April in most parts of England and Wales. As a general rule, April is the ‘best’ month for sowing Broad Beans seeds (in England and Wales). However, if the weather permits or your variety of Broad Beans allows, sow in March to reap early harvests. As a general rule seeds should be sown 5-6cm deep, and about 20cm, give or take a few centimetres, apart. However, the spacing can vary for some varieties that may need more space or could make do with less. Seeds in the next row may be planted at a similar distance; about 20cm. If you sow seeds in long rows in open ground, space each double row to give you sufficient space to walk along the rows to pick your beans, say about 50cm. All the seeds will not germinate so if you wish, sow a few ‘spares’ in pots or wherever you have room to transplant in unoccupied spots. Watering Give the seeds a fair sprinkling of water; give them another sprinkling when you see the seedlings sprouting from the soil. Water in the early part of the morning and be wary of overwatering. In many regions of the UK natural rainfall is usually almost sufficient for Broad Beans. Keep the bed clear of weeds. Staking Most Broad Bean varieties, as leguminous plants, need support stakes. The best way to support these plants is to drive stakes into the soil front and back along pairs of rows. Stakes and string to support young broad beans as they grow If your variety is not stiff or if you live in a blustery location, tie nylon string low and also high from stake to stake diagonally so as to create a lattice or fretwork as seen from above. This framework should be tight enough to provide support to the growing plant so that it doesn’t flop over yet also provide sufficient room for the plant to spread as it grows. If your soil is not rich and fertile, feed the plants with a 5-5-10 organic fertiliser. When the plants start to flower, water them well if rainfall has been insufficient so that the soil becomes wet. Do so weekly. Pinching Out When the first flowers wither into charcoal-coloured slivers and the earliest little pods begin to take shape, pinch off the growing tips, alongwith the small bunch of young leaves, from the plants. This pinching-off of the growing tip will stop the plant from growing bigger and its energies will be redirected into making bean-pods. As a bonus, it will reduce the chances of black fly and aphid infestation. Harvesting Broad Beans You should be able to pick Broad Beans by early June onwards. Do not let Broad Bean pods mature on the plant; pick them on the early side. Harvest pods young; pick a pod as soon as it is visibly swollen with beans. There is no ‘right length’ at which to pick pods as different varieties’ lengths vary quite widely. Run early experiments to figure out what is the best ‘length’ at which to pick pods on a particular variety you are growing. This will depend on your personal taste and also on how you intend to cook and consume the beans. As a general rule, pick lower pods first. Do not pull the pods or cut them, but twist them off with a smart flick of the wrist. Pods should be shelled when the seam or scar is whitish or a light shade of green and before it darkens. Otherwise the beans will lose their freshness and flavourfulness and become stringy, tough, or mealy. Pods can be picked very young and cooked with beans in-pod, or the small, tender beans can be tossed raw in salads. Common Problems Spring-sown Broad Beans may suffer from Blackfly aka Black Bean Aphid and Pea and Bean Weevil. See our guide to blackfly on broad bean plants for more information on how to diagnose and deal with this issue. Pea and Bean Weevil cause cosmetic damage to leaves but do not affect the mature plant as a whole or its crop. If this pest attacks seedlings or very young plants, then growth can be affected. Chocolate Spot is not uncommon in plants that overwinter outdoors or in humid weather but it is much less common on spring-sown plants. References 1. Vicia faba. (n.d.). Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/UV/Viciafaba 2. Fava Beans. (n.d.). University of California. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://sfp.ucanr.edu/pubs/brochures/favabean/ 3. Broad bean. (n.d.). Plant Village. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/broad-bean-dry/infos 4. Nitrogen Fixation by Legumes. (n.d.). New Mexico State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_a/A129/
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Give Your Chilli Plants These Perfect Conditions For A Bumper Yield
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Soil Requirements Preferred Aspect & Temperature How To Grow Chillies Sowing Watering & Feeding Transplanting Outdoors Growing Common Problems Background & Origins References Passionately liked nearly the world over, one or another type of chilli is an essential ingredient for the respective cuisines of nations as disparate as Mexico, Thailand, India and Italy. Chillies are best known – and rightfully so – as a hot and spicy food. However, the hotness of different chilli varieties covers an incredibly wide range. Furthermore, chillies also have width and depth in flavour. No, it’s not just fire-breathing types or entrants in chilli-eating contests who are fond of chillies and would like to grow these tasty little things. Of course, chillies are primarily a spice and produce a ‘hot’ sensation but this heat has an exceptionally wide range from tickling and teasing all the way to painful and injurious, but there’s also a taste component. Different chillies also have varying dryness or moistness. Not to forget that different chilli varieties not only have different tastes but often have distinctly different scents and ‘finishes’ or aftertastes. Overview Botanical Name Capsicum Common Name(s) Chillies Plant Type Fruit Native Area Central & South America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Flowers followed by edible peppers When To Sow (Indoors) February, March, April Plant Out June It is worth noting that the genus name ‘Capsicum’ is often used as a synonym for mild bell peppers which are actually a type of Capsicum annuum.1 Bell peppers are somewhat challenging to grow, especially for hobbyists. The good news is that chillies are quite easy to grow, and, as a general rule, the smaller the chilli, the easier it is to grow. In this article we focus on ‘Chillies Proper’ – the hot stuff – and not on Bell Peppers. Chilli plants in their native Tropical and Sub-Tropical Zone habitats are perennials. In temperate and cool regions they are usually grown as annuals and – unfortunately – even treated and viewed as such. Remember that, as a general rule, the quicker a chilli is picked, the less spicy it is and the less developed its flavour; the more it matures on the vine and the later it is harvested, the hotter it becomes and the greater its nuances and depths of flavour. Different varieties have different ‘ranges of maturity’ so to speak. Habitat & Growing Conditions Soil Requirements Chillies grow best in a loam mix with a fair amount of organic compost and manure but little clay. Soil pH should hover right around Slightly Acidic. Preferred Aspect & Temperature They are not winter-hardy at all, being indigenous to Tropical and Sub-Tropical climates. They prefer full sun locations. In the UK you need to start off chillies in seed pod trays or small pots indoors or in a greenhouse. Chillies may be kept indoors or in a greenhouse year-round provided they get a lot of sun. Many chilli varieties can be grown even in growbags. After the plants have developed you would transplant them to suitable containers or in a bed outdoors. If you grow chilli plants outdoors then they will effectively be annuals but if you grow them in containers, then you can overwinter the plants indoors in a sunny spot or in a heated greenhouse and they will flower and fruit for about three more years. How To Grow Chillies Sowing Sow seeds in preferably February otherwise in March. You may transplant your growing chillies more than once if you wish. The rule is to pot on when roots become visible through the drainage hole or when it appears that the root system has filled up the pot. Chilli seeds do not germinate as readily as most vegetables and fruits. To up the chances of germination, dampen a few paper towel sheets, put seeds in them, rumple the towels, and let them be for a day or two before sowing them. Prepare small, 6.5cm, terracotta pots with a mix of seeding compost and organic soil without clay or peat. Bring out your seeds wrapped in paper towels – some or many may be starting to germinate. Place two or three seeds just a touch under the surface of the soil. Spread a bit of perlite or vermiculite on the surface for absorption and retention of moisture. The pots can be kept in a heated greenhouse or in a sunny spot indoors at a temperature hovering around 20°C. Watering & Feeding Water them every two days so that the soil stays moist though it should not stay wet. Feed them, sparingly, with a liquid fertiliser like Chilli Focus. Alternatively, feed them, sparingly, with 5-5-5 fertiliser to start off with. Keep an eye on the plant’s height and overall shape as it grows. Transplanting When you feel the plant has reached a desirable height and needs to have more spread, pinch out the tip – the plant will then start becoming bushier. You will need to transplant the young plants at least once. Do so when a plant’s roots start peeking through the drainage holes, when the root system has just about filled the pot, or in early-to-mid May. Prepare 18-20cm pots with a good organic loam including compost but very little clay and no peat. Transplant one or more developing plants, each to its own pot. If you decide to transplant the plants in an outdoor bed, do so when the soil temperature is not below 20°C. “The UK is a challenging climate for growing chillies outside, as it just gets too wet and cold at times in summer,” says Colin Skelly, a professional gardener who has been awarded the Master Horticulturist status by the RHS. “I always grow mine in the greenhouse in pots. However, in a south-facing sheltered spot, it might be done in the south of the country. “To get the soil temperature up prior to planting, use a cloche to trap heat close to the ground. “This will ensure that the roots of the chillies will have the best chance to establish when transplanted out.” Stake the developing plants as and when necessary. Outdoors Growing In mid-to-end May you can move your chilli plant pots outdoors. From June, water the plants a little more and continue to feed them. Be aware that chillies not only exude and give out warmth and heat, chilli plants also take in and need warmth and heat – they dislike cold. Feed a little more regularly and generously after the plants have flowered and have started to bear fruit. Common Problems In the UK you need to watch out for aphids and whitefly, and also red spider mite. Growing chillies in greenhouses increases the chances of the plants being attacked by these pests. These can be reduced by using an insecticidal soap. Background & Origins C. anuum species were and are indigenous to Central America, and C. chinense species to the landmass we know as Venezuela, Guyana, French Guiana, and Suriname.2 The plants were domesticated in about 6000 BC in what we now know as Mexico, the very southern part of it.3 Several thousand years later in the 1490s when Christopher Columbus and then the Spanish conquistadors made landfall in Central and South America, they observed that chillies were a staple part of the Aztec and Mayan diet.4 It was, in fact, Columbus who was responsible for introducing this New World fruit to Spain and Portugal near the end of the Fifteenth Century.5 Within a couple of decades this spicy delicacy had established a foothold in Turkey and Italy. As such, believe it or not, until about 1500 only Central and South Americans had enjoyed this delicious spice! Though we may associate chillies with Thailand, India, China, and Vietnam, those nations are latecomers to the Chilli Party. Different species and varieties found their ways to these lands during the 1500s via the Silk Route and other trade routes, and these nations evidently adopted the fruit as their own, as seen from their respective cuisines. In fact, India and China soon became among the world’s largest cultivators and exporters (of some or another species and varieties) of chillies, which they remain to this day.6 References 1. Pepper, bell. (n.d.). Plant Village. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/pepper-bell/infos 2. Capsicum annuum (bell pepper). (2022). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.15784 3. Hirst, K. (2019, October 2). Chili Peppers – An American Domestication Story. ThoughtCo. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.thoughtco.com/chili-peppers-an-american-domestication-story-170336 4. What Did The Maya, Aztec and Incas Eat? (n.d.). DK Find Out! Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dkfindout.com/uk/history/mayans/what-did-maya-aztecs-and-incas-eat/ 5. Chile Peppers. (n.d.). Silk Routes. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://iwp.uiowa.edu/silkroutes/chile-peppers 6. Chilli Outlook. (2021, August). Agricultural Market Intelligence Centre. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://pjtsau.edu.in/files/AgriMkt/2021/August/chilli-August-2021.pdf
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