Growing
How To Grow Sorrel: Why This Versatile Herb Is Best Grown Close To The House
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Sorrel Sorrel Ongoing Care Common Problems References Sorrel may have been flying under your Herbs-and-Spices Radar but once you grow and use this very versatile herb, it will stay on your radar for a long time. This plant is not difficult to grow, it is quite easy to care for, and you can use it for soups, salads, and sauces, and even as a leafy vegetable. If you’re into multi-cultural cuisine and like to prepare dishes from all round the world, the herb you have to have is Sorrel, sometimes incorrectly called ‘Dock’. Unlike rosemary, thyme, and such, Sorrel is what you make of it – or, in fact, what various nations make of it. There’s one word that best describes this tangy-citrusy leaf: versatile. It can be a veggie, an appetiser, a soup, a salad, a sauce, and…well, a herb! Overview Botanical Name Rumex acetosa Common Name(s) Sorrel Plant Type Herb / Perennial Native Area Europe / Central America Hardiness Rating H3-H7 Foliage Some retain leaves all year Flowers Tall spikes reddish flowers When To Sow February, March, April, May, June, July, August Rumex of some species or another occurs in nature from Sub-Tropical to Tundra Zones. Rumex arcticus grows in the Arctic and is relied upon as a foodstuff by many people who live there.1 Rumex vesicarius is likewise used as a culinary ingredient except that it grows in the heat and dust of India.2 Many other Rumex species grow wild in forests, fields, meadows, roadsides, and poor and gravelly land virtually through the length and breadth of all continents. Sorrels, therefore, span the gamut of Hardiness Zones. Though most prefer full sun, a few varieties grow in partial shade or even full shade. Rumex acetosa is a perennial and is hardy in RHS Zones H3-H7 (USDA Zones 3 to 9) – making most varieties suitable for all areas of the UK. The majority of Rumex species are invasive to some or another degree and many, particularly R. acetosella or Sheep Sorrel, are considered weeds in North America. How To Grow Sorrel R. acetosa, R. scutatus, and R. sanguineus are available through many sellers, brick-and-mortar nurseries as well as online. Other species of sorrel may be harder to find at nurseries. However, many Sorrels can be propagated by root division. If you allow the flowers to wither and go to seed, you will automatically get new Sorrel plants. These plants spread rapidly and can be hard to control – to prevent them from spreading, cut off the flower stalks – a side benefit will be the renewed production of the useful part of the plant, the foliage. “I recommend growing sorrel near the house where you can easily harvest leaves and cut off any flowering stems that appear,” says Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. “Don’t underestimate one flower’s ability to propagate numerous plants; I would advise cutting off any flower stalks that appear and, if you wish to propagate new plants, the safest way is to divide.” Growing From Seed Prepare a bed with a good mix of soil that is organic but not rich. It should have good drainage and be in a sunny location, preferably full sun. Plant R. acetosa or Common Sorrel seeds in April, sowing them 15-20cm apart and about 1cm under the soil. Keep the soil moderately moist. After the plants germinate, water them in moderation twice a week though in an area with ample rainfall you may not need to water them for days on end. Sorrel Ongoing Care As the plants grow, you may need to thin them if they were planted too closely. Weed the bed as you would for any other plant. Overwintering As a perennial, Sorrel will become dormant in the winter but will re-emerge in spring. As a cold-hardy plant, Common Sorrel varieties do not need protection but it would be wise to lightly cover or mulch it with organic compost if you anticipate frost. Propagation Besides growing from seed, Common Sorrel may be propagated by dividing the roots. Other Sorrels may be grown in the same way with minor variations; after all, Sorrels are easy-grow and no-care plants. As for plant care, if there is one thing that Sorrel doesn’t need and doesn’t even want, it is TLC treatment. Indeed, it can be said that Sorrels flourish on neglect. Common Problems Sorrels, growing as they do wild in nature all around the world, are tough and robust plants and in general are worry-free. The only problem you need to keep an eye open for are slugs and snails, which are not too difficult to repel or eliminate. Infrequently Sorrels get attacked by aphids or leaf miners. Sorrels are disease-resistant plants. References 1. Rumex arcticus Arctic. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Rumex+arcticus 2. Rumex vesicarius. (n.d.). India Biodiversity Portal. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://indiabiodiversity.org/species/show/266390
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How To Grow Pumpkins: No Autumnal Vegetable Patch Would Be Complete Without Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Pumpkin Types How To Grow Pumpkins Pumpkin Plant Care Common Problems Harvesting & Storage References These days more and more gardeners have taken to growing their own produce, reaping the benefits of homegrown fruit and veggies. And let’s face it: no autumnal vegetable patch would be complete without a pumpkin or two. Pumpkins are super easy to grow, and once harvested, it’s easy to make use of the entire fruit (yes, pumpkins are fruits!). The flesh can be used in curries and stews or pureed to use in desserts. The toasted seeds can be seasoned with sugar and salt and make for an extremely tasty snack and can also be sprinkled over salads. Whilst you can’t eat the skin, it can be composted to contribute to your autumn garden. And, of course, come Halloween you can get carving and make your own ghoulish Jack-o’-lantern. Overview Botanical Name Cucurbita pepo Common Name(s) Pumpkin Plant Type Fruit Native Area North & Central Americas Hardiness Rating H1C (mostly) Foliage Green leaves that are large & lobed Flowers Yellow, edible, followed by the edible fruit When To Sow April, May Plant Out June Harvesting Months September, October As previously mentioned, pumpkins are fruit, with most varieties deep yellow to orange in colouration. They can be found on all continents apart from Antarctica and are one of the oldest domesticated plants with records showing them to be cultivated as early as 7,500 years ago.1 Almost all pumpkins are edible, and their name originates from the Greek word ‘pepon’ meaning large melon.2 Pumpkin Types While you are probably familiar with the classic orange pumpkins, there are actually over forty varieties of pumpkins, ranging in size, texture and colour. “Pumpkins are such fun to grow and I’ve found them relatively stress-free, although I always forget to label things properly so don’t ask me what varieties I’m growing!” says Shannon Keary, Garden Blogger & Podcaster. Their shelf life also differs, making some better for display purposes than others. ‘Atlantic Giant’ If it’s size you’re after, then the Atlantic giant pumpkin is just the ticket. This variety is one of the world’s largest pumpkin and can weigh up to 180kg (400lbs).3 When Cinderella went to the ball, it was most likely this type of pumpkin that became her magical carriage! Its skin is bright orange and rough in texture. Atlantic giant pumpkins are perfect for local pumpkin competitions but, while they are edible, they have little flavour. That said, they do make an exciting addition to any garden, providing you have the space and can be composted once they begin to decay. ‘Long Island Cheese’ This variety gets its name from an uncanny resemblance to a wheel of cheese. Thankfully it doesn’t taste like cheese, instead boasting yummy flesh that resembles butternut squash, making it perfect for cooking. Deep orange in colour and averaging at a weight of around 4.5kg (10lbs), this variety also makes for a wonderful display piece for harvest celebrations and Halloween. ‘Queensland Blue’ As the name would suggest, these pretty pumpkins come in a beautiful blue colour. Hailing from Australia and growing to a weight of between 3-4kg (6-10lbs) in around 100 days, this variety has a tasty, treacle-like flavour, making it an excellent ingredient for desserts and pies. If you want your pumpkins to stand out in a crowd, then this unusual variety will do just that and will make your vegetable patch truly pop! ‘Baby Boo’ Whilst we’re on the topic of unusually coloured pumpkins, the baby boo variety can’t go without a mention. This palm-sized, pure white specimen grows no bigger than a tennis ball and takes around 90 days to develop. Once fully grown, these ghostly baby boo pumpkins should be picked promptly to avoid discolouration. This type of pumpkin is not edible and is too small to carve so, after harvest, it is really only useful for decorative purposes. But, mixed in with a display of orange pumpkins, it can make a real statement. “I love growing mini pumpkins like ‘Jack Be Little’ and ‘Baby Boo’ over an archway,” shares Emma Bailey, a Garden Blogger. “It always looks so magical and impressive and really doesn’t take that much work! Smaller varieties of pumpkin love to climb, so growing them vertically is a great way to save space. “In terms of helping them to climb, you can start to tie them in with some twine but once they are established they will happily cling onto your structure themselves!” How To Grow Pumpkins Once you’ve decided on your pumpkin of choice, it’s time to get to business. While the time it takes for them to reach maturity may differ, all pumpkins require the same growth and care regimen. Sowing Indoors Sowing pumpkins indoors is quick and easy, and you can get to work anytime between April and June. Simply fill a 7.5cm pot with compost and place the seed on its side at a depth of around 2.5cm. Once sown, water and place on a windowsill. When the roots start appearing through the pot’s bottom, you can transfer your little plant to a 12.5cm pot. Once the seedlings have established, you can then plant them outside. Space them at least 2m apart so they have plenty of room to grow – and be sure to pick a sunny, sheltered spot to ensure they thrive. “Pumpkin seeds germinate easily, although best sown on their thin edge, I have found almost all seeds sown will come up regardless of how they a placed in compost or soil,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. Sowing Outdoors Whilst sowing pumpkins is best done indoors, if you have a sheltered spot available in your garden, you can sow them outdoors a little later in the year. Planting pumpkin seeds outside should be done in late May or early June. Dig a hole of around 3cm in depth and place three seeds in the hole on their sides – you should then cover the area with plastic sheeting or jars for at least two weeks. Once the seeds have germinated, remove the weakest seedlings so that only the strongest remain. “They need nutrient-rich soil, so dig in some manure before planting,” shares Emma. “Pumpkins are hungry plants, so lots of water and regular liquid seaweed feeds are essential for healthy growth.” Helpful hint: If you don’t want to start from scratch, most garden centres sell young pumpkin plants to help get you started. Pumpkin Plant Care Pumpkins are hardy crops and will flourish almost anywhere with the right care. Soil Requirements To achieve the best results, make sure they are planted in moisture-retentive soil, protect the seedlings with mulch and feed with a general fertiliser or tomato plant food. “Pumpkins are super hungry, so I’ve started digging large tubs with holes in the bottom near the plants and creating my own mini composts heaps which feed the plants as it decomposes,” shares Shannon. “I’ve also used old milk bottles with small holes planted out about 20cm beneath the soil to ensure that the water goes directly to the roots this year. “With the hot weather, having this makes it so much easier and less wasteful to water.” If you’ve opted for a larger variety of pumpkin, train the shoots using wire to help them grow. If you find you have a number of fruits on the plant, remove a few of them before they develop, this will help the plant focus its energy on the remaining pumpkins resulting in much bigger specimens. Preventing Rot One of the most important factors when it comes to growing pumpkins is to prevent them from rotting as they grow larger. To avoid rot, place the pumpkins on a plank of wood or a few bricks – this will protect them from moisture sitting on the ground and allow them to reach their maximum size. I would also recommend removing any leaves that cover the pumpkin fruits so they can access as much light as possible – I find this helps them to mature. “I like to grow my pumpkins through a strong trellis laid flat and elevated above the ground by some bricks,” Dan adds. “The plant grows through the trellis, it is easy to water and the pumpkin sits on the trellis rather than the ground, helping to prevent rot.” Common Problems Pumpkins are rather resilient so you will rarely run into problems with them – the main thing to watch out for is powdery mildew. Powdery mildew presents itself with a white, powdery deposit on the leaves and, if left unattended, will cause the leaves to wilt. Thankfully the solution is simple: keep the soil moist around the plants (being careful to avoid wetting the leaves of the plant) and you shouldn’t run into this issue. “Don’t be afraid to remove a few leaves if you think it will increase airflow, as this will also help reduce mildew and potential rots,” says Dan. Harvesting & Storage Pumpkins are brilliant at letting you know when it’s time to harvest them. Leave them on their stem as long as possible, once ripe their skin will harden, and they will crack away from their stems, letting you know they are good to go! Pumpkins can be stored for up to six months, just take care to keep them in a cool, well-ventilated space. “Some of the more popular varieties for Halloween lanterns can rot quickly if left in a warm kitchen, so don’t bring them in too soon if you want to avoid an early horror show,” Dan shares. With so many varieties to choose from, you will have no trouble finding the perfect pumpkins for you. References 1. Reilly, L. (2015, October 28). Pumpkin’s surprising origin. BBC Travel. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20151027-pumpkins-surprising-origin 2. Pumpkin History. (n.d.). University of Illinois Extension. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://web.extension.illinois.edu/pumpkins/history.cfm 3. Estadt, M. (n.d.). Growing Giant Pumpkins in the Home Garden. Ohio State University Extension. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-1646
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Growing Snake Plants - Simple Instructions For This 'Hard-To-Kill' Houseplant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Snake Plant? How To Grow A Snake Plant Snake Plant Care Common Problems References If you’re looking for a stylish houseplant that’s easy to take care of, let us introduce you to the snake plant. Each of this plant’s striking leaves – dark green with a bold yellow border – pierces proudly upward, reminiscent of a pouncing snake or, maybe a sword or similarly sharp-edged implement. This plant is renowned for being sturdy, and can thrive even in the care of the most laissez-faire gardener. If this is you, then this plant could be just what you need to bring some natural tones to your home. Rather than requiring plenty of tending and delicate care, the snake plant is happy to be bunged on a windowsill and pretty much forgotten about. In this guide, we’ll outline how best to take care of your plant. Overview Botanical Name Dracaena trifasciata Common Name(s) Snake Plant, Mother-In-Law’s Tongue Plant Type Houseplant Native Area West Africa Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Spikes of small greenish flowers When To Sow Year-Round (Indoors) Flowering Months April, May D. trifasciata, as it’s formally known, goes by many other names, too. Some of these include ‘Mother-In-Law’s Tongue’ and ‘George’s Sword’. The plant originally hails from tropical regions of West Africa, ranging from Nigeria to the Congo.1 Thanks to growing up in these tough conditions, the plant is incredibly hardy, and can easily hold its own inside a temperate living room. Why Grow A Snake Plant? One of the most compelling reasons to grow a snake plant is to bring a little nature into your home, without requiring much effort. Houseplants can transform a room, and many people favour those which don’t need much looking after. Just the occasional drink of water, and enough vigilance to ensure the plant isn’t left to bake above a hot radiator, for example. “Houseplants have undergone a surge in popularity but people are always asking me for recommendations of houseplants that are ‘hard to kill’,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Dracaena trifasciata is one I often recommend for its resilience to most household conditions and a degree of neglect (there are limits!).” The snake plant is a popular choice as a houseplant thanks to its hardiness and ability to tolerate significant neglect. It’s also visually distinctive, offering something a little different from the succulents and rubber plants so many of us have dotted around the house. How To Grow A Snake Plant Most people will opt to buy a fully-grown plant from their local garden centre or online retailer. You can grow snake plant from seed, although seeds are harder to come by and less reliable than easy-to-grow cuttings. In fact, there are three common methods of propagation you might consider – Growing A Cutting In Water Growing from a cutting is simple – just whack the cutting in a container with a shallow layer of water covering about a quarter of it. Then leave this in full sun, changing the water every two days, and wait until roots appear. Once the roots have been visible for a few days, gently transfer the cutting into a pot with soil, and you should be good to go. Growing A Cutting In Soil If you’ve got a cutting, you don’t have to put it in water and wait for roots to appear. Instead, you can simply wait until the site where you removed the cutting from the main plant has ‘healed’, then plant the cutting callous-down into some soil. After a few weeks, it should begin to take root. One of the drawbacks of this method is that you have to trust the roots will appear, rather than being able to see them before planting. Whichever option you go for, bear in mind that baby snake plants make fantastic gifts – and because you can take cuttings over and over again, this plant really can be the gift that keeps on giving. Dividing The Roots If you’ve got access to a mature snake plant, especially one that’s beginning to outgrow the pot it lives in, then division may be your best bet. Here you remove the plant from the soil, gently brush away as much soil from the roots as possible, then look for places where you can tease apart the root system into two or more plants. There’s a bit of a knack to this, and it can feel like you’re destroying the plant rather than propagating it, but if you’re gentle and take care to ensure that each new plant has a sufficient number of roots to allow it to grow, you should be OK. Once you’ve teased apart the root system into two or more plants, just plant each back into its own pot, and wait to see whether they take hold. Snake Plant Care While it doesn’t require much special care, here’s what you need to know to keep your snake plant healthy. Sunlight Thanks to its tropical origins, this plant prefers full sun and a south- or east-facing aspect. Soil Requirements It prefers loamy or sandy soil, and it’s paramount that the soil is able to drain well. Your snake plant won’t thrive in soggy soil! You’re looking for soil that drains fully every few days. A soil mix designed for succulents should provide the ideal conditions for your snake plant. Watering During the summer months, your snake plant will be a very thirsty customer. Expect to water it weekly, gradually dialling back to monthly (or maybe even less frequently) as winter sets in. A good rule of thumb is to push your finger into the soil; if it’s dry at about an inch below the surface, it’s time to add water. (It should be called a rule of finger, really, shouldn’t it?) Fertilising It may not be necessary to fertilise your snake plant, as it’s a fairly rugged specimen. If you notice your plant looking unhealthy, or you’re aware that it’s been a particularly long time since it was fed, though, you can give it a top-up. This plant needs the nutrients found in a cactus or succulent fertiliser. During the peak growing season you can apply fertiliser monthly. Dilute the succulent fertiliser mix so it’s about half mix and half water, and this should satisfy the nutritional needs of your snake plant. Common Problems Snake plants are generally trouble-free, but they do appeal to one type of critter in particular. Vine Weevils Adult vine weevils like to eat leaves and lay eggs, with the resulting grubs then moving on to eat the roots of your plant – all in all, it’s a visit you could do without. Because weevils are quite commonplace in the UK, and because most people grow snake plants indoors where predators can’t keep them in check, you may well find a few. The first step is to stay vigilant, and to manually remove any weevils from the plant. Check for grubs as well as grown-ups – you can then place sticky barriers around the perimeter of your plant, as a means to stop their advancement. If these two methods don’t work, however, you’ll most likely need to move onto pesticides or nematodes (a natural parasite of vine weevil). References 1. Dracaena trifasciata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:77164235-1
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The Smart Way To Grow Coriander For A Regular Supply Of Leaves Through The Year
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Coriander? How To Grow Coriander Ongoing Coriander Care Common Problems Thanks to its distinctive flavour and incredible versatility, coriander herb has made its way into cuisines around the world. Not only will you find it alongside other spices in all manner of curries, but in dishes as varied as chilli, scallops, salads, pasta, and more. Whether as a garnish or an integral ingredient, coriander contributes an enormous amount to any dish it’s used in. Overview Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum Common Name(s) Coriander, Cilantro Plant Type Herb Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or purplish flowers When To Sow June, July, August, September Harvesting Months July, August, September, October, November, December Coriander is a fragrant herb hailing from many areas of Southern Europe and Western Asia. Coriander vs Cilantro – What’s The Difference? Like many things, Americans have muddied the water around coriander a little. Across the Atlantic, they refer to the leaves and stalks of the coriander plant as ‘cilantro’ – they still call the seeds ‘coriander’, however. In an interconnected world, this can sometimes lead to confusion. Many curry recipes online, for example, call for cilantro – to the untrained chef, this instruction can lead to hours spent in the supermarket, trawling up and down the herb section to little avail. Why Grow Coriander? The main reason to grow coriander is for the fantastic flavour, and to save a whole bunch of money compared to buying a fresh sprig of the herb every time you need to use it. If you want to grow coriander but don’t want to cheat by using one of the pre-potted plants you can buy in supermarkets, then read on. How To Grow Coriander Growing coriander is simple – all you need to do is find a spot in your garden that gets full sun or partial shade, prepare the soil for planting, and sprinkle a thin layer of seeds. Once planted, your coriander seeds will germinate after 1-3 weeks. Then it’s just a case of waiting for them to grow! To ensure a regular supply of leaves throughout the year, plant staggered batches. You can sow coriander from June through to September, and you can protect plants growing in cooler months by covering them with polythene or another transparent, insulating surface. Coriander also lends itself perfectly to growing in window boxes or planters, so if you’re working with a balcony, or even a windowsill, rather than a garden, you’re still in luck. Ongoing Coriander Care Watering With coriander, your goal is to keep things moist. Too wet, and the plant will struggle to grow – too dry, and it risks flowering early. If this happens, the harvest will be less impressive. So, water sparingly, and stay vigilant to ensure that the soil never fully dries out. Fertilising Coriander will do just fine without being fertilised, but a little plant-balanced food won’t go amiss if it’s looking a little worse for wear, especially if it’s growing in a pot. Read the instructions of your chosen feed to ensure you don’t apply too much. Harvesting For most of us, this is the only reason we grow coriander – to ensure a steady supply of the herb, ready to be used at a moment’s notice in all manner of delicious culinary exploits. Picking coriander is easy. Just wait until the plant is ripe, then snip or pick the desired stems. “The versatility of coriander is seen in the harvesting options – regularly harvesting small quantities of leaves and taking no more than a third in one go, gives a continual harvest,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Also, the flowers can be eaten or the edible seeds can be left to form.” Take them indoors and allow to dry on a piece of kitchen roll, then store in an airtight box until you need them. You can freeze coriander, too, meaning it’ll last almost indefinitely. Note that we wouldn’t recommend using frozen and defrosted coriander in recipes that call for it to be used fresh! It’ll end up very soggy. Common Problems Coriander is prone to a few issues, although nothing so severe that you shouldn’t be able to take care of it. Here are some problems to look out for when growing coriander at home: Slugs & Snails These prolific nuisances see it as their birthright to crawl all over your precious plants, leaving a trail of slime and munched leaves in their wake. With flowers and other decorative plants, the munch-holes are dispiriting to see. But with edible crops like coriander, they bring that extra level of revulsion. Not many people will willingly eat a leaf that’s already been eaten by a slug or snail..! The best trick to keep these pests away from your coriander is to grow it indoors. If that’s not an option, you can use various techniques and substances to discourage slug and snail visitations. Bolting When a plant bolts, it flowers earlier than intended. Bolting is typically encouraged by difficult growing conditions, causing the plant to perceive the need to propagate itself and increase its chance of survival in challenging situations. While this sounds like good survival instinct, it’s not good for the flavour of coriander – in fact, after a plant has bolted, you shouldn’t eat it. Even cutting the flowers off will not stop leaves becoming bitter. To avoid bolting coriander, heed our advice from earlier on and ensure the soil doesn’t end up too dry! It’s about maintaining that sweet spot between too dry and too wet. Also, be vigilant and harvest your coriander when it’s ready. Waiting too long will increase the chances of the plant flowering. We love coriander. It’s tasty, versatile, cheap, and easy to grow – what a fantastic combination! Also, once you’ve got into the swing of staggering your coriander harvests, you’ll have a near-endless supply of the herb to work with.
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How To Grow Erica Arborea ‘Tree Heather’ With Some Interesting Varieties Worth Trying
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Tree Heather? Tree Heather Varieties How To Grow Tree Heather Tree Heather Care Common Problems References There’s heather, then there’s tree heather. And although the names are similar, the two plants are very different in terms of appearance and habit. Whereas heather keeps a low profile and bursts forth in an exciting array of pinks and purples, tree heather cultivars riff on a theme that’s close to our stereotypical expectation of what an evergreen should look like: proud, green, and angular. Between the varieties available you can find some truly astounding specimens, at home in any garden. Tree heather, also called tree heath (a useful way to distinguish it from regular old heather) goes by the Latin name of Erica arborea. It’s an evergreen, and the family includes shrubs and small trees. Overview Botanical Name Erica arborea Common Name(s) Tree Heather Plant Type Shrub / Hedging Native Area Southern Europe, North Africa, Central & Eastern Africa Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small fragrant white flowers in long panicles When To Sow March, April, September, October Flowering Months February, March, April, May When To Prune May, June The plant originally hails from various parts of Africa and Southern Europe, but has now become naturalised in other parts of the world.1 It’s popular as an ornamental plant in British gardens thanks to the aesthetic variety on offer. Why Grow Tree Heather? Tree heather is a hardy and attractive plant with varieties coming in a wide range of shapes and sizes. If you’re looking for something to bring a little visual interest to your garden, and you’re attracted to the general evergreen aesthetic, then tree heather could be right up your street. Tree heather wood – also called briar – is also incredibly hard, and lends itself excellently to woodworking. Tree Heather Varieties Here are three varieties that showcase the best the plant has to offer. These cultivars have all been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit (AGM), indicating that they are well suited to growing in the UK. E. arborea ‘Albert’s Gold’ In our opinion, ‘Albert’s Gold’ aligns most closely with the image that comes to mind when someone mentions evergreen trees. It boasts triangular fronds of light green leaves, with spikes that carve a space for themselves in your field of vision. They’re like a scaled-down version of the enormous fir trees you’d expect to see in a rugged Canadian landscape. E. arborea ‘Alpina’ ‘Alpina’ shares many visual characteristics with ‘Albert’s Gold’, except the leaves generally weigh in quite a bit darker on the green spectrum. Grown together with ‘Albert’s Gold’, ‘Alpina’ showcases the rich variety of colours offered by tree heather. Grown alone, it’s another way to capture and replicate the rugged flora that can be hard to achieve in UK gardens. E. arborea ‘Estrella Gold’ ‘Estrella Gold’ is a little daintier, compared to the rugged varieties we’ve shown already. Each leaf has a small white centre, creating a speckled, almost snow-like effect when seen from afar. This cultivar also grows to a far smaller maximum height than Albert’s Gold and Alpina, demonstrating the versatility available between the different types. How To Grow Tree Heather Generally speaking, tree heather is hardy and sturdy; being able to take whatever British climate sees fit to throw at it. There are many things you can do to give your plants the best chance at a long and healthy life, however. Where To Grow Choose a spot with acidic soil that can drain freely. Soil that retains moisture, or is neutral or alkali, will stifle or even kill off further tree heather growth. This plant likes full sun or partial shade, and will do well growing under the canopy of a bigger tree. In fact, the shelter offered by another tree will promote better growth because, while hardy, E. arborea prefers not to be fully exposed to the elements. Planting Tree heathers are grown from younger plants, rather than from seed. Planting yours out is simply a case of finding the right spot in your garden (see the next section), and taking the following steps. First, dig a hole a couple of times wider than your rootball, to a depth that allows the top of the rootball to align with the soil surface. Next, remove your well-watered plant from its pot, tease apart the roots from the clumped root ball and plonk it into the hole. Depending on the variety you’re growing, you may want to place a stake at this stage. This is a structure made of wood or similar that provides support for the growing plant, making up for the strength that the root system would provide to a fully-established plant. Finally, fill in the hole, ensuring that the soil is packed down tightly enough to fill air pockets, but not so tightly that you crush the plant. Tree Heather Care Feeding When planting out your tree heather, we advise working a few centimetres of compost well into the soil in the area your plant will go. Be generous with the compost, taking into account the eventual size of the mature plant. Enriching the soil with nutrients early on will give the developing root system the best possible shot at getting what it needs to grow big and strong. Watering With evergreens, you need to stay vigilant. In the first season, check in often to see whether the roots are moist. You’ll want to keep them well-watered to promote the strongest growth. Then, through winter, you need to take into account the water lost through the leaves – much more of a consideration for evergreens than other plant types. Keeping your tree heather well-watered throughout the year, rather than waiting for it to show signs of thirst before watering, will best set you up for success. Pruning As a shrub, tree heather will do well with regular annual pruning to keep it in shape. The best time of year to do this is late spring: after the frosts that may damage freshly cut areas, and with enough time to allow new growth to cover up most of the visual evidence of pruning. This said, however, pruning isn’t required to keep the plant alive – tree heather falls into RHS Pruning Group 8, meaning it can do without.2 If you do decide to prune, do so after flowering. Remove any diseased or damaged shoots, and then thin out sections that may have become crowded. “Tree heathers can become straggly, especially if not annually pruned,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Branches can be pruned back to around 30cm from ground height if required after flowering. “Plants will respond by putting on fresh growth, which should be tip-pruned to develop bushy growth.” Common Problems Tree heather is a hardy plant that’s not likely to attract any pests or prove particularly problematic. The most likely issue is a thirsty plant struggling to thrive, but if you follow the steps in the watering section, you should be able to control against that. Phytophthora Root Rot No, that’s not a typo. Phytophthora is a species of fungus that can wreak havoc on the roots of certain tree heather varieties. Rot caused by phytophthora is hard to distinguish from that caused by overly-moist soil – over time, rot reduces the roots’ ability to draw nutrients from the soil, leading to wilting, discolouration, and general poor health. Unfortunately, once you see symptoms above ground, things are usually too far gone below ground to salvage the plant. Keeping soil well-drained to control against rot caused by waterlogging should help you be more certain that any rot you do encounter is Phytophthora. In this instance, you need to remove and destroy the plant, then to replace the topsoil in the affected area. While drastic, this is the best solution in ensuring that future outbreaks do not occur. Whether you go for the forest-in-miniature ‘Albert’s Gold’, the daintier and more delicate ‘Alpina’, or one of the many other E. arborea varieties, tree heather is sure to make a good impression. We can assure you that you won’t look back, whatever the heather. References 1. Erica arborea. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328204-1 2. Shrubs: pruning evergreens. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/shrubs/evergreen-pruning-guide
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Growing Potentilla ‘Cinquefoils’: A Shrub Suited To A Wide Range Of Garden Backdrops
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Potentilla? Potentilla Varieties How To Grow Potentilla Plant Care Common Problems References Some plants have so many names that it can be hard to keep track of them, and potentilla is one such candidate. You’ll see this plant variously referred to as potentilla, cinquefoil, five fingers, silverweeds, and more. Throwing further confusion into the mix is that many varieties are visually similar, centred on a theme of being small, green shrubs with vigorous bouquets of yellow flowers. What is certain, however, is that potentilla makes a pretty addition to any garden. Overview Botanical Name Potentilla Common Name(s) Cinquefoils Plant Type Perennial, Annual, Shrub Native Area Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating Mostly H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers 5 petalled flowers appearing over a long period When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune August, September This genus contains an undefined number of plants – with estimates ranging by source from three hundred to over five hundred – and there’s contention about the characteristics which should define membership. As a current guide, Kew lists 501 species of Potentilla.1 Some potentillas have small berries which resemble strawberries – a plant to which they’re closely related – but the fruit is small and inedible. All varieties have an elegant floral bloom, yet while the majority are yellow, the overall colour palette varies wildly. Why Grow Potentilla? For a budding British gardener, this is the more important question. We advocate growing potentilla because it is attractive, varied, and well-suited to a wide range of garden backdrops. P. erecta Their low shrub profiles lend themselves nicely to borders, while their bold colouration adds visual interest to flower beds and displays. Potentilla Varieties There are potentially hundreds of different types of Potentilla. Each of the three varieties below have been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit: an accolade indicating particular suitability to growth in British gardens. If you’re wondering which potentilla to grow, you won’t go far wrong with one of these. P. fruticosa ‘King Cup’ What do we think of when we think of royalty? Bold, regal colours, confidence, and more than a smattering of gold. With these criteria in mind, it’s not hard to see where ‘King Cup’ got its name. The rich yellow bloom that bursts forth in summer and sticks around well into autumn sets the potentilla scene perfectly. P. fruticosa ‘Medicine Wheel Mountain’ Here we have a mat-forming shrub which spills intriguingly out onto the ground, leaving a green-yellow covering. The dimensions and overall aesthetic of the mat would work well with a rock display, or to provide attractive ground cover somewhere in your garden that doesn’t require much of a vertical contribution. P. fruticosa ‘Primrose Beauty’ This variety of potentilla has white flowers with bright yellow centres, rather than fully yellow flowers. With ‘Primrose Beauty’ you can get a good idea of the variations available within the potentilla colour palette. Not every garden needs more yellow, but we think that any garden could do with a dash of potentilla. How To Grow Potentilla If you’re sold on potentilla and want to get one growing in your garden, the next sections are for you. We’ll outline where to plant it, how often to water it, methods of propagation, and much more. Where To Grow The answer to this question will depend on the variety you choose. Potentillas range in height from a few inches to several feet, and have a similarly broad range of widths. Take time to understand how big your variety is likely to get and choose a space in your garden accordingly. P. fruticosa ‘Tilford Cream’ In terms of preferred climate and prospect, potentillas are very hardy and can withstand lots of buffeting from the elements. This makes them popular choices for beachfront properties, or gardens that are very exposed. Your potentilla will do best in soil that can drain well, with neutral or slightly acidic pH levels. A spot with full sun will help to nurture more flower growth, so bear this in mind if you’re growing potentilla especially for its floral bloom. Plant Care Watering To encourage strong root growth keep your potentilla well watered during its first year. After that, the plant is sturdy enough to tolerate drought, but will appreciate watering in particularly dry conditions. To insure against various potential health problems (addressed in detail later), try your best to water the roots and soil only, rather than spraying the entire plant. Damp foliage and leaves can cause problems if they’re unable to dry out fully. Pruning You don’t need to deadhead the flowers on your potentilla, as they’re able to take care of themselves. Because of their shrubby nature, potentillas lend themselves well to pruning to keep them in shape. Don’t do this until your plant is at least three years old, however, to ensure it’s strong enough to withstand the treatment. Prune back older plants by a third of their total growth every few years to keep them tame and healthy. “As well as the shrubs, there are many species and cultivars of perennial Potentilla,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “These look fantastic in borders mixed with other perennials and they are popular in cottage garden-style planting. “Flowering from late spring, these perennials will benefit from deadheading, which will help them to flower right through summer and even into early autumn.” Propagation In the height of summer you can take cuttings from your potentilla which, when cared for properly, will flourish into new plants. Keep an eye out for new growth free of flowers with woody stems but around 15cm of soft, green growth. Then simply plant the cutting a few centimetres into a pot filled with compost, taking care that the leaves don’t touch the compost. Cover with a plastic bag for the first few weeks, and then remove the bag once the cutting has had a chance to put out roots. In the next growing season your potentilla will be ready to be transplanted into your garden, following the steps outlined above. Common Problems While generally very hardy, there are a few problems that can affect potentilla. Here’s what to look out for: Mildew / Leafspot If you’re too enthusiastic with watering your potentilla, it’s possible the plant will not be able to dry out properly. Damp leaves and foliage are particularly susceptible to mildew and similar types of rot. Removing affected parts of the plant before the problem spreads is your best means of control, but in this instance, prevention really is the best cure. Root Rot In a similar vein, if the soil is unable to drain properly, your potentilla’s roots may begin to rot. If this happens, it’s very hard to reverse the course of the rot, and often the plant must be discarded. Aphids These pesky green critters love to feast on the sweet fluids inside the leaves and stems of pretty much any plant they can get their hands on (figuratively speaking). If you notice an unwelcome gathering of green fiends on the leaves of your potentilla, here’s what to do: Attempt to remove them by hand, staying vigilant for the next few days to see whether they return. Introduce predatory bugs like ladybirds or similar, who will keep the aphid populations in check while not eating your plants. Use a pesticide to remove existing populations and discourage further visits. We recommend going for something gentle and humane, although you have a wide range of options when choosing such a product. The myriad plants under the potentilla banner offer an exciting and rewarding set of blooms for your garden. Thanks to their hardiness, flexibility, and comprehensive range of shapes, sizes, and colours, there’s a member of the potentilla family well-suited to the needs of any and all gardeners. Take care to choose the right spot and nurture your plant to health, and you’ll be rewarded with a mature bloom that largely takes care of itself. References 1. Potentilla. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved July 31, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000237-2#children
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Here's How To Grow Moneywort - A Creeping Plant With A Tendency To Spread
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Moneywort? How To Grow Creeping Jenny Common Problems References Here’s a plant with a quirky name, a visually captivating appearance, and a somewhat controversial reputation. If you’re planning to incorporate this billowing yellow-green plant into your garden, you need to have an understanding of all three. Overview Botanical Name Lysimachia nummularia Common Name(s) Creeping Jenny ‘Moneywort’, Herb Tuppence, Tuppence Grass Plant Type Perennial Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Cup-shaped golden flowers When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August The ‘creeping’ moniker is fairly self-explanatory: left to its own devices, the boundaries of this plant will creep ever-outward, as its tendrils seek out fertile new ground to grow in. This creeping tendency can become problematic, but we’ll talk about that later. Moneywort, although seemingly cryptic at first, simply harks back to the Latin name: Lysimachia nummularia. The second half of the name, ‘nummularia’, translates to ‘like a coin’, and refers to the coin-shaped leaves on a mature plant.1 Many traditional names riffed on this monetary theme (twopence, for example), but moneywort is the one that stuck best. Whatever you want to call it, this plant is an evergreen perennial well-known for its tendency to spread. Stems grow and place new roots, allowing the plant to expand effectively indefinitely. Why Grow Moneywort? This plant looks nice, it is UK-hardy and it will visually complement other plants and themes in your garden. It’s fairly easy to grow, too, although it requires a higher degree of vigilance than some other plants, especially if you’re planting in the ground. How To Grow Creeping Jenny You have two options: grow from seed, or transplant an established plant into your garden. With the former, start growing in a container indoors. This will keep the seedling safe from the elements and give it the best shot at taking hold. Plant the seed just below the surface of the soil, then water gently. After a couple of weeks you should see growth, then in early spring you can transplant your seedling outdoors. If you’re transplanting an established plant bought elsewhere, simply choose the right spot in your garden. Planting If you’re growing in the ground, dig a hole in your soil approximately the same depth as the pot you’re moving the plant from. Remove the plant and place gently in the hole, then cover over and pat down gently; ensure the root system is fully covered. Grow about 60cm apart from other plants to factor in the enthusiastic growth of a creeping Jenny. If you’re growing in a container, repeat the steps above, and ensure the container is deep enough to accommodate a root system. Growing creeping Jenny in containers is a popular choice because, when established, the plant will spill pleasingly over the container edges, creating a fantastic draping effect. Where To Grow This plant likes full sun or partial shade, and will do best in any aspect except for north-facing. It can handle exposure to the elements, but will also do well with shelter. Creeping Jenny has a hardiness rating of H6, meaning it will tolerate even the harshest of UK winter conditions – all the way down to -20°C. Choose a soil with clay or loam, and ensure it’s able to drain well. As we’ve said, if you’re growing creeping Jenny outdoors, not in a container, leave plenty of space for the plant to grow, and remain especially vigilant that new growth doesn’t spill beyond the intended area. If this happens, the plant can quickly become a pest, wreaking havoc on other nearby growth. “I tend to use L. nummularia in pots as a trailing plant to avoid its ability to spread rather too well in the ground,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Removing it can be tricky as it will grow back from any sections left in the ground.” If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you could grow your creeping Jenny outdoors in an elevated display. This gives the best of both worlds: your plant is able to enjoy the optimal outdoor conditions, while being far less prone to invade surrounding flowerbeds and gardens. The draping leaves would have to make a journey all the way to the ground before being able to spread, giving you plenty of time to catch them in the act and intervene. Growing Indoors In containers, creeping Jenny makes a fine houseplant. We’ve mentioned the billowing nature of Jenny’s leaves: this makes a great visual contribution to your indoor plants, especially if you don’t currently have an ivy or other flowing plant. For the best results, keep your creeping Jenny container on a high surface – perhaps a shelf or on top of a cabinet – to give the flowing leaves enough space to flourish. L. nummularia ‘aurea’ If you grow on a coffee table or similar low-level surface, the tendrils will quickly bunch up on the floor, which isn’t ideal. Growing indoors, try to find a window that faces west or south, to ensure the plant gets enough sunlight while not remaining in direct sunlight for extended periods. Fertilising Creeping Jenny doesn’t need a lot of fertiliser. A sprinkling of 10-10-10 each spring contains enough nutrition to keep the plant growing abundantly for the next season. Watering As a natural inhabitant of wet and boggy areas, creeping Jenny can handle more moisture than some other plants. Water often, and try to keep the soil consistently moist (read: not soggy). Try to avoid letting the soil get completely dry. Pruning You’ve probably figured by now that, left unchecked, creeping Jenny can cause problems. This is because the roots like to roam (or, you could say, creep), and they set down roots when they do so. Each new root is effectively a control centre for a new section of plant, and it’s the reason creeping Jennys are able to cover so much ground. If your moneywort is growing on the ground, you’ll want to prune back particularly enthusiastic growth fairly often. Doing so simply requires cutting off sections growing beyond the intended area, and ensuring you pull up the entire root system of each new section. Pruning also helps your creeping Jenny to remain fresh and healthy, as the plant is able to allocate more of its resources to the growing sections, rather than fuelling new growth. Propagation This plant lends itself well to propagation. When you’re cutting off newly-rooted sections, you have the option to regrow any or all of these as new plants. Whether in the ground elsewhere in the garden, in a container to mix things up visually, or via a friend: you’ll quickly get a generous reputation if you give away each of your cuttings to people looking to expand their garden arsenal! Common Problems Aside from its potentially troublesome overabundance, creeping Jenny isn’t prone to any pests or diseases, making it a popular choice for gardeners who aren’t looking for too much of a challenge. There are a couple of things to look for, and although they’re unlikely, we’ve included them here for reference. Root Rot Theoretically, any plant is susceptible to root rot. This damage occurs when the root system of a plant remains waterlogged for too long, and the solution is simple: don’t water your plant more than it needs. As we implied earlier, with creeping Jenny, this simply means allowing the root system to drain, only watering when required, and taking care to never let the soil dry out fully. Fungal Issues Again, most plants are susceptible to fungal diseases in theory. These various afflictions all come from fungal spores settling on your plant and propagating, causing damage to leaves, stems, roots, or all three, depending on the type. Luckily, the solution to fungal diseases is the same as root rot: don’t overwater. Fungus like damp conditions and will thrive on plants whose roots or surface-level organic matter doesn’t get the chance to dry out or dry off properly. To protect your plant, take care when watering to only water the soil, and avoid getting leaves and stems wet. If you’re looking for a captivating, mat-forming plant for your garden, or for something to flow dreamily out of pots and provide vertical visual interest, then creeping Jenny is the way forward. While it requires a keen eye to prevent ground-growing plants from spiralling out of control, the actual act of keeping a moneywort in check isn’t prohibitively difficult. Just keep a careful eye on it, and trim back any sections that are getting a little too intrepid. In exchange, you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant and vivacious plant that pairs excellently with all manner of shapes and sizes of plant. References 1. Moneywort (Creeping Jenny). (n.d.). University of Arkansas. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/moneywort-6-24-05.aspx
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Aloe Vera Growing Secrets We Learned Interviewing Succulent Expert Les Pearcy
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Aloe? How To Grow Aloe Ongoing Aloe Care Common Problems References You’ve probably heard of Aloe vera. You’ll see it as an ingredient in plenty of creams and lotions, while bottles of Aloe drink are increasingly common on food shop shelves. Whatever your introduction, the plant itself is a timeless classic. In this guide, we have collaborated with succulent expert Les Pearcy, the Chairperson of The Haworthia Society. “As a child, I was fascinated by these weirdly shaped plants and became hooked – literally with some of the hook-spined cacti!” says Les. “My interest has never waned, and I have been very fortunate to see the plants growing in habitat in Southern Africa, USA and in the Canary, Madeira and Mediterranean Islands. “Their ability to survive in such adverse conditions and then thrive in cultivation continues to captivate.” Overview Botanical Name Aloe vera Plant Type Succulent / Houseplant Native Area Africa, Madagascar, Jordan, Arabian Peninsula and Indian Ocean Islands Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small tubular yellow flowers on racemes When To Sow Year-Round (Indoors) Flowering Months July, August In scientific terms, Aloe vera is a succulent belonging to the genus Aloe – containing nearly 600 or so different species.1 Aloe vera is considered the ‘true’ Aloe, the plant most indicative of the genus, because it remains the most visually iconic, and is the source from which the vast majority of commercially used Aloe is obtained. Originally hailing from the Hajar Mountains in Northern Oman, Aloe vera now grows enthusiastically all over the world.2 Despite conditions being quite different in the UK from those the Aloe is accustomed to, the plant has become commonplace here for myriad reasons, as highlighted earlier. Why Grow Aloe? Firstly, it’s an attractive and striking plant. The ridged green stalks jut proudly outward from the soil, held rigid by the gel inside. White blemishes on each stalk break up the dominant bright green colouration, adding visual interest and texture. In full sunlight, the plant has an inarguable vivacity. Secondly, Aloe vera is fairly easy to grow and look after. This may not be a priority for all gardeners, especially those more versed in the art who may deliberately seek out plants that provide a bit of a challenge; but for amateur gardeners and casual interior designers who just want to incorporate a little bit of green, A. vera represents the perfect opportunity. How To Grow Aloe Potting Mix As succulents, A. vera prefers a soil mix designed to encourage good drainage. “They are best grown in a well-draining compost,” says Les. “There are lots of different suggestions for the make-up of the soil, but a standard compost with the addition of sand, grit or perlite will do.” Avoid regular gardening soil and look for something with ingredients like sand, grit, lava rock, or similar. While some guides recommend adding a layer of gravel or similar to the bottom of pots to further encourage drainage, this isn’t required for A. vera, especially if you’re using the right soil. Avoiding this layer gives the roots more space to take hold, and should lead to a healthier plant. A. vera is most frequently grown from cuttings of a mature plant. To grow, fill a container just over halfway with soil, then place the cutting in the soil and add more, making sure the cutting is firmly held in place. Choosing A Container Choosing the right pot is just as important as the right soil, when it comes to keeping your Aloe healthy. A container conducive to moisture, made of terracotta or similar, is recommended. It’s vital that the container has a drainage hole in the bottom, too, to prevent water pooling there (top tip: place some porous mesh between the hole and the soil to allow water out while preventing soil from escaping and making a mess). Choose a pot that’s wider than it is deep in order to give your Aloe space to grow. Preferred Sunlight Also bear in mind that this is a plant built to thrive in hot, dry places. While they’ve spread around the world, the natural conditions favoured by this plant involve a lot of heat and sunlight, and the more faithfully you can recreate this in your home, the better your Aloe vera will grow. “Most Aloes are relatively easy to grow and rely on good light conditions, so a bright sunny windowsill is ideal,” says Les. Choose a spot with a lot of sunlight but where the plant isn’t in full sun all day. The corner of a room or a window sill that doesn’t get full exposure are two good examples. A room temperature of between 15-25°C is typically ideal for your Aloe. Ongoing Aloe Care Fertilising You don’t need to fertilise A. vera much, or even at all. If you decide to do so, use a houseplant formula weakened to about half strength by mixing with regular soil. Add a small amount around the base of your plant every few weeks, during spring and summer. Fertilise a maximum of one time per month. Pruning A. vera plants don’t need much pruning, as a rule. The main reason for cutting your Aloe is to clean up unhealthy sections, or to get at the gel inside. If you’re wondering how to cut an A. vera plant without killing it, simply trim the section off with sharp scissors or trimmers. When trimming dried brown sections from the end of a stalk, just cut the affected section. To get the gel inside, it’s best to select a thick and mature stalk, then cut at the base. “I always keep an Aloe vera on my kitchen window sill – ideally located for any mishaps when cooking!” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I also harvest a few offsets, or ‘pups’, every year for giving away to friends and family.” Cutting at an angle facilitates better draining and healthier regrowing for the plant. After you’ve cut off the stalk, wash any dirt from the base, then stand upright in a glass to allow the resins to drain out. These aren’t good for human use and can be discarded. Once these have drained, peel the stalk with a vegetable peeler and put it in a blender until it reaches a milky consistency. Common Problems A. vera is fairly sturdy and isn’t prone to many problems. However, there is a particular pest that can cause some problems for this plant, as Les explains: “The main pest encountered is the mealy bug. These appear as white wool-like masses. “Big infestations are dealt with using insecticide sprays, but the odd insect can be easily removed by using methylated spirits applied with a small paintbrush.” Here we outline a few other issues you may encounter, and how to resolve them – Root / Leaf Rot The biggest risk with A. vera is rot, whether at root or leaf level. The primary cause of such rot is overwatering: a plant that cannot drain properly will sit in moisture, and this creates an environment that facilitates the growth of fungus that leads to rotting. To avoid rot, water infrequently and only when required. Ensure your plant is in well-draining soil, with a hole at the bottom of each container, and in plenty of sunlight. Watering the roots directly, rather than pouring water onto the whole plant, will ensure that leaves and stalks stay as dry as possible, further mitigating the risk. Root-Bound Plants Any plant in a container will eventually become root-bound. This occurs when the root system becomes so dense that the plant can no longer get enough nutrition from the soil. Brown, wilting sections are indicative of root rot – if you suspect this problem, you’ll need to repot your A. vera into a bigger pot. Gently tease it out of the current pot, taking care not to disrupt or damage the roots, then re-pot, taking care to choose a bigger container! Hopefully, you’re enthused and prepared to get an A. vera plant established and thriving in your home. References 1. Aloe L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 4, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30106039-2#children 2. Aloe vera. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:530017-1
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Grow A Laburnum Tree For An Incredible Display Of Cascading Yellow Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Habitat & Growing Conditions Care & Growing Tips Pruning Laburnum Tree Common Problems Uses Of Laburnum Wood Sourcing Laburnum References Laburnums are small ornamental trees with intensely green foliage. The flowers are even more ‘intense’ in their own way. Bright golden-yellow links, as if in a chain, tumble and dangle in and from the crown of Laburnum trees in thick, dense clusters, presenting a stunning sight in summer. Indigenous to Southern Europe, the ‘Golden Chain Tree’ is also prized for its high-grade wood.1 Laburnums are deciduous trees and they attain heights of 5-8m, with 7m-and-change being a common height. This genus has only three accepted species and several cultivars of which one has become predominant and is so renowned that it is identified by the single word, ‘Vossii’.2 The three species’ leaves have somewhat different colours, and they also vary as to whether they are smooth or hairy on the underside. All species’ leaves are trifoliate – that is, each leaf is made up of three leaflets. Such leaves are also called ternate leaves. The leaflets are lanceolate to ovate and are 2 to 3 centimetres. Overview Botanical Name Laburnum Common Name(s) Laburnum Vulgare, Laburnum x Watereri, Golden Chain/Rain Tree Plant Type Tree Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Bright yellow pea-like flowers When To Sow September, October Flowering Months May, June When To Prune February, March Though the summer show does not last very long at all, there is a show and the flowers are the stars of the show, which is a spellbinding one. For about a fortnight – three weeks if you are lucky – the tree produces thick, lush bunches of flowers that appear inter-connected. These racemes dangle from the branches or cascade or tumble over whatever architectural structure branches have been trained against. The hue ranges from a bright, cheery yellow to a deep, golden yellow. This is why Laburnum is also called ‘Golden Chain Tree’ Racemes vary in profusion, density and length by variety of Laburnum. On the species, the lengths of the racemes range from 12 to 25cm. However, on the most popular and beautiful of the cultivars, the aforementioned ‘Vossii’, or L. × watereri ‘Vossii’, they reach an amazing length of 60cm. Call them ‘showstoppers.’ The flowers are highly scented; however, the scent is an interesting and perhaps a heady one rather than a sweet perfume. Left alone, Laburnum will grow to be a small, highly-branched tree. It can be pruned and trained to grow as a shrub, or as an erect tree with a branchless trunk and a heavy crown. Besides requiring some pruning, Laburnums are susceptible to quite a number of pests and diseases. As such, it is a high-maintenance plant. Planting Laburnums should be planted in spring, preferably mid or late spring. Laburnums are curiosities because they are average small trees for eleven months of the year but for nearly one month they are an ‘A+’ in ornamental value. They are sometimes planted in neat rows. They are commonly trained so that the branches grow over an arch or any wall, or grow flat over a lattice roof of a pergola so that in flowering season it creates a golden-chain ceiling. “The garden at RHS Wisley has a Laburnum pergola that for many years suffered from late frosts damaging the early summer flowering display,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly.3 “The curator, Matthew Pottage, tasked the garden team with staying at the garden at night during late frosts and lighting fires under the pergola to keep the frost away from the flower buds. “It worked, so if this is a problem in your garden, you know what to do!” These small trees often benefit from a sheltered location, especially in cold and blustery regions. As their roots are non-invasive, they can be grown right beside all kinds of structures, such as a patio or boundary wall.4 The exact hue of the racemes vary not only by species but also as the flowers mature Habitat & Growing Conditions As natives of Western and Southern Europe Laburnums prefer cooler climes and are not exactly tolerant of high heat or humidity. They are also not tolerant of frigid weather, as may be inferred by their Hardiness Zones. Laburnum is classified as H6 by the RHS; making it hardy in all regions of the UK. Cool summers and moderate winters are ideal for Laburnums. In colder climates or regions that do not get sunny and hot in the summer, Laburnums should get full sun. Otherwise, they should be protected from the midday and afternoon sun. Latitude also dictates where you should grow a Laburnum. Up in County Ross it should be grown in full sun; down in Gibraltar, in part sun. Care & Growing Tips Laburnums are best planted in autumn. Young trees need support and should be staked. Though these trees are not fussy about soil, start them off with some compost or manure. Laburnums grow well in any soil as long as it is not too acidic or too alkaline; pH slightly alkaline to slightly acidic soil will do just fine. A good loam mix is ideal. Soil should be very well drained; above all, Laburnums will not tolerate waterlogged soil. Mature plants should be watered once a week or very lightly twice a week. Though Laburnums are fairly drought-tolerant, in hot climates the soil should be kept moist in spring and summer. It may be fertilised every spring with an organic 10-20-10 or a rich compost. Pruning Laburnum Tree Laburnums can be grown as a bushy shrub, a fastigiate tree, and anything in between. It depends on how you prune and train it. If you would like to grow the relatively unusual Laburnum shrub, on the young tree cut back the leader but let the secondary stems grow. If you would like it to grow tall and erect, prune all secondary stems. In either case, when it is a sapling you will need to stake it. When to prune, though? Some experts opt for late-summer when the flowering season is over and the tree is growing and full of life. Others propose winter when the tree is dormant and growth is at a halt. However, we know when not to prune Laburnum. Do not prune in spring or early summer as the tree will ‘bleed’ and it will be susceptible to infections. What you should ‘prune’ are the seed pods, and for dual reasons at that. To begin with, they are not exactly decorative. More importantly, they draw away the vigour of the tree. Common Problems All Laburnum varieties are very prone to pests and diseases. Pests include snails, aphids, mealybugs, and leaf miners – all three, Lepidoptera, Diptera, and Hymenoptera. Diseases include canker, twig blight, leaf spot, powdery mildew, and silver leaf. At least most deer will steer clear of Laburnum – most, but not all! Obviously, Laburnums are not low-care trees. You will need to learn about treatments and counteracting organisms such as beneficial nematodes, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers. Infestations like powdery mildew and twig blight can just about only be resolved by cutting off affected parts of the tree with sterilised pruning implements. L. Watereri ‘Vossii’ Uses Of Laburnum Wood In general, Laburnum trunks yield a high-quality wood, and L. alpinum heartwood is one of the most sought-after woods. It is very hard, has an appealing yellowish-brown colour, is very shiny and can be polished to a lovely sheen. With such a list of attributes is it any wonder that this wood is described as ‘highly prized’? Laburnum arch L. alpinum wood, particularly the heartwood, is one of the top choices for cabinet-making and parquetry. Flutes, recorders, and bagpipes used to be made almost exclusively with Laburnum wood, and these musical instruments are still made from this wood, among others. Sourcing Laburnum L. × watereri ‘Vossii’ is widely available and is very easy to find in nurseries and garden centres. The three species are also available, though at a more limited number of nurseries. Specialist nurseries offer one or two of the old, established cultivars and one or two newer ones. References 1. Laburnum (Genus Laburnum). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/51811-Laburnum 2. Laburnum × watereri “Vossii.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/44171/laburnum-x-watereri-vossii/details 3. RHS Garden Wisley. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved July 3, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/gardens/wisley 4. Gilman, E., & Watson, D. (n.d.). Laburnum spp. US Forest Survey. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/database/documents/pdf/tree_fact_sheets/labsppa.pdf
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