Growing
Grow Heuchera ‘Coral Bells’ For Pronounced Foliage That Changes Colour With The Seasons
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Heuchera Plant Care Common Diseases & Problems References Heuchera plays the lead role in the Drama of Foliage enacted in your garden – and there’s no ‘off-season’ – for this drama plays year-round. To begin with, this plant has appealing leaf shapes, being attractively lobed or scalloped. It presents hues in numerous tones and varying intensities, and exhibits prominent veining and marbling. On top of this, it even undergoes colour changes with the seasons! They are low-care to no-care bushy evergreen perennials with a mounding or clumping form. Overview Botanical Name Heuchera Common Name(s) Coral Bells Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Mostly evergreen Flowers Grown more for foliage, small tubular flowers, sometimes with colourful calyxes When To Sow March, April, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March, April Many or even most species provide year-round splashes of colour – red, wine, purple, orange, lime, copper, silver, gold…and that’s just the foliage! On top of this, many varieties’ leaves change colour from one season to another, often dramatically. Variegation? But of course. And there’s a bonus: most varieties bear thyrses of tiny flowers in summer; sometimes their colour matches that of the foliage and sometimes they provide an accent or complement. And that, in a nutshell, is Heuchera. It is hardly any wonder that these eye-pulling plants have exploded in popularity over the past 20 years, with a concomitant explosion in the number of varieties. While Heuchera has more than 50 species (not including synonyms), hybrids and cultivars number several hundred and counting.1 The Heuchera spectacle has a ‘feature attraction’ plus a ‘sideshow’ – the latter being the small flowers which set themselves well above the foliage, rising to twice to thrice the height of the canopy. As such, they are effectively a second tier of ornamentation. Each peduncle has multiple branches and each of these bears a panicle – technically a thyrse – of florets. These dainty things are very colourful in their own right, coming in white, cream, pink, and various shades of red. And they attract equally colourful butterflies and also bees. Heuchera as a genus is also informally called Coral Bells and Alum Root though this is not strictly correct as these vernacular names refer, or used to refer, to different sets of species within Genus Heuchera. Last but most importantly, in winter, when all else is dead or dormant, Heucheras in the garden can be a blessing, bearing proof of life and also displaying colours soothing to thrilling, and of every mood in between. Heucheras are native to and grow throughout North America.2 Moreover, their various species sprout in all kinds of habitat. Though a particular diversity of species occurs in montane regions, they are also found on river banks, littoral zones, forested regions, and even rock and crag. Habitat & Growing Conditions Genus Heuchera includes many strong and tough species that grow in many locales and conditions that are inhospitable for most plant life, such as rocky fissures, barren slopes, and canyon floors. Other species grow in more hospitable locations, such as wooded hillsides and grasslands. Furthermore, as they grow through nearly the breadth of North America and throughout its length from Northern Canada to Southern Mexico, different species are acclimated to very different temperature, humidity, and rainfall conditions. As a result, different varieties have different preferences and tolerances depending on which species they were hybridised or cultivated from. In general, H. villosa cultivars are hardier at both temperature extremes than H. micrantha cultivars. That said, as British weather does not get very hot – at least not the way it does in, say, the South of Spain – the chances that a Heuchera species or variety will be affected by heat are slim. Most varieties are H6 hardy – making them suitable for almost all outdoor areas of the UK. How To Grow Heuchera Heuchera can be planted or transplanted in spring or autumn. In general, Heuchera are as if tailor-made for borders, accents, and rock gardens. It is true that these plants provide superlative backdrops or foregrounds to set off tall, stately plants, for example a specimen delphinium. However, they are ornamental plants in their own right, and different varieties can be used for different functions in different settings. They can be presented in wide planters, used as touches of colour in the corners of a deck, used for year-round decoration on the balcony – the possibilities are limited only by a gardener’s imagination. Plant Care Some Heuchera, such as H. ‘Bella Notte’, prefer full sun or partial sun, others, such as H. ‘Citronelle’ are happier with partial shade or full shade, and yet others, such as H. ‘Green Spice’ couldn’t care less. The key indicator is the colour and shade of the foliage. The more purple or more red the colour and the darker its shade, the more sun the plant should get; the more yellow-green the colour and the lighter its shade, the more shade the plant should get. H. ‘Midnight Rose’ They should be grown in a light, loose, sandy loam. They should not be planted in heavy or clay soils. Heuchera do not need much care; all you need to do is watch out for a couple of “Dont’s”. Moist but well-drained soil works best for these plants from spring through autumn when they should be watered in the morning once or twice a week during dry spells. However, in winter be sure that the soil stays dry, and water it infrequently. Feed Heuchera lightly and sparingly, if at all. Do so with organic compost or with a 5-5-5 fertiliser. “Though I am generally not too fussy about clearing up fallen leaves in beds and borders, it is well worth taking the time to clear up any leaf fall around Heucheras,” says Peter Lickorish, Master Horticulturist. “Leaf litter can make them prone to rot or cause their growth to become distorted if it is deep.” Common Diseases & Problems In the main this plant is resistant to pests and diseases, except for two problems that do tend to affect it: vine weevil and a fungus now known as Heuchera Rust. Vine Weevils Though adult vine weevils are bad, the grubs are worse because they destroy the plant’s roots. Small animal life commonly inhabiting gardens prey upon vine weevils so these are your first line of defence. A biological solution is to release beneficial nematodes that kill vine weevils, such Nemasys Vine Weevil Killer. A third, chemical, option is to use biological insecticides, though this may also harm other beneficial wildlife in your garden. Look out for wilting during moist weather, or plants which feel loose and unattached, as signs of a problem. “I would strongly recommend planting Heucheras in the ground, where the risk and severity of vine weevil damage are generally lower,” shares Peter. “Containers are best if the soil is too heavy or for short-term seasonal displays and growing plants on, ready for planting as larger specimens.” Rust Heuchera Rust is a serious cause of concern in the United Kingdom. This fungal disease is not only destructive, but it also causes delightful foliage to become painfully ugly and riddled with depressions and pustules. To guard against it, sequester newly-brought Heuchera for a month, and make it a point to prune old or dead leaves in autumn. Planting in dense borders reduces airflow and could also worsen the problem. Heuchera Rust can be combated with several chemical fungicides. First, though, you need to remove all infected parts and incinerate them. References 1. Heuchera (Alumroot, Coral Bells, Heuchera). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/heuchera/ 2. Winter, N. (2017, January 12). Heuchera are native to the U.S. and an award-winning perennial plant. CAES Newswire. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://newswire.caes.uga.edu/story/6065/coral-bells.html
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How To Grow Gypsophila ‘Baby’s Breath’ - This Long-Lasting Filler Plant Will Grow Anywhere
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Baby’s Breath Plant Care Common Problems References Those pretty billowing clouds in floral arrangements that we call “Baby’s Breath”, which set off roses and tulips, are actually tiny flowers of Gypsophila species and varieties. Gypsophila is native to almost Eurasia; only India and a few countries southeast of it are uninhabited by these plants.1 These plants are also native to South Africa and Northern Africa, and they have been introduced to the United Kingdom and United States, among other countries. Overview Botanical Name Gypsophila Common Name(s) Baby’s Breath Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Eurasia, Africa, Australia, Pacific Islands Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous or evergreen Flowers Large sprays of delicate white flowers When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune August, September Out of the about 150 species and several dozen cultivars that comprise Genus Gypsophila, several are well known to anyone who has received a bouquet and to most of those who have sent one.2 These varieties are informally known as “Baby’s Breath”. Gypsophila paniculata, a few other Gypsophila species, and their hybrids and cultivars make up “Baby’s Breath”. They are actually called ‘Gyp’ in the trade. Though Baby’s Breath flowers are commonly called a ‘florist’s filler’, the tiny blossoms are indescribably pretty accompaniments to the carnations, gerberas, and such that form the centrepiece of a bouquet. These dainty flowers are not of much importance individually but when massed, they give the effect of wavy, bubbly, billowing floral clouds out in the garden and even in a static floral arrangement. A good mix of varieties will provide blooms from spring to end-autumn. Each plant puts up a large number of delicate stalks which carry large panicles of five-petalled flowers. Though all varieties’ flowers are very small, their sizes vary somewhat. The colours are limited to white, off-white, yellowish, and tones of light pink-purple. Some of the reasons for Baby’s Breath’s popularity and ubiquity in bouquets and arrangements include: Even the cut flowers are long-lasting. In the garden the flowers are a big draw for butterflies and bees. These flowers have a lovely scent. Gypsophila is a herbaceous plant, and species and varieties are annual, evergreen, deciduous, or semi-deciduous. Habitat & Growing Conditions Habitat & Growing Conditions for Gypsophila species and particularly paniculata may be described as, ‘Anywhere and Everywhere’ to be concise, if not precise. These plants grow and spread in gardens, fields, woods, roadsides, ditches, sandbanks, pastures – just so long as the soil is not acidic. In this genus’s natural habitat, it grows on the steppes, in woodlands, on hillsides, by rural pathways, and in the poor, calcareous soils that are abundant in that region. G. paniculata Gypsophila grows in all kinds of soils to the extent that it is classified as an invasive species in many geographic regions of the United States and also in other countries.3 Almost all Baby’s Breath varieties are hardy to RHS Zone H7 – making them suitable to grow in all areas of the UK as perennials. How To Grow Baby’s Breath One might think that Baby’s Breath is not as widely available as popular plants, both perennials and annuals, but one would be wrong. Almost all Baby’s Breath varieties, to a greater or lesser degree, are available as potted plants from nurseries, many of which will have the plants delivered to your doorstep. Seed packets of some select varieties are also available. Where To Grow To be honest, Baby’s Breath is not a great plant for beds or containers though it is superlative for everything else. That said, if you are a floral arranger or do ikebana, then – of course – you may very well want to grow Baby’s Breath in a bed or two in your garden. It is ideal for texture and filler in the garden just the same as in floral arrangements, and is also an excellent choice for filling in gaps. “Although it is very well known as a florist plant, Gypsophila is also fantastic as a garden plant,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It can provide ground cover for a great space filler in borders or gravel gardens. “I use it between more structural plants, providing a more finely textured backdrop.” Not only is this ‘filler’ decorative, it somehow heightens the attractiveness of the specimens or centrepieces it surrounds or forms a backdrop to. The creeping varieties make for lovely groundcover, and both creeping and dwarf varieties are terrific in rock gardens. Baby’s Breath, along with small wildflowers, planted together will produce a charming, cottage garden effect. Sowing & Planting Sow Baby’s Breath seeds, of either perennial or annual types, in early spring in a sunny spot. These plants should be well-spaced; a good rule of thumb is to space them apart by about 90% of the variety’s rated ultimate spread. Once a plant is established it should not be transplanted or otherwise disturbed because of the thick and long taproot. Plant Care Full sun is best but partial shade will do; delicate varieties like ‘Flamingo’ should be sheltered. ‘Flamingo’ Soil, Feeding & Watering This plant does not take well to rich soils, fertilisation, or watering; where Baby’s Breath is concerned, ‘Less is more’. Plant them in chalky, sandy, or gravelly soil that is, preferably, Slightly Alkaline (but not at all on the acidic side). Water infrequently and fertilise sparingly only if necessary. Soil should be well drained – Baby’s Breath is especially intolerant of damp soil in winter. Pruning Most varieties will produce a second bloom if the plant is conservatively cut back after the first flowering. Common Problems The plant is generally pest-free. Stem Rot Occasionally a plant may be affected by stem rot or botrytis AKA ‘grey mould’. Stem rot is usually caused by bacteria. It is hard to treat but you can guard against it by mulching around the stem before the onset of winter. Botrytis Botrytis is a fungal disease. Promptly cut off the diseased parts or remove the entire plant if it is badly affected. References 1. Gypsophila. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:6285-1 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998c, July 20). Baby’s Breath | Description, Species, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/babys-breath 3. babysbreath: Gypsophila paniculata. (n.d.). Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.invasiveplantatlas.org/subject.html?sub=5682
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Shallots Are Different From Growing Onions And Need Their Own Plant Care Regimen
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Shallots? How To Grow Shallots Harvesting Common Problems References Although they’re similar, shallots and onions lend very different nuances to dishes. Whereas onion brings a distinct heat, shallots offer something sweeter, and more delicate. If you’re already familiar with shallots you’ll know how much they can bring to your cooking, and if not, then now’s the time to get acquainted. Overview Botanical Name Allium cepa var. aggregatum Common Name Shallots Plant Type Vegetable / Bulb Native Area Central & South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H4-H5 When To Sow January, February, March, April, November, December Harvesting Months July, August You may be wondering, are shallots onions? Technically they are, as they’re a member of the same botanical family.1 But in terms of the vegetable we commonly refer to as “an” onion, there are a few key differences – Size – shallots weigh in a lot smaller than onions, usually around 20g a piece compared to over 100g per onion. Shape – onions are round, but shallots can come in elongated oval shapes. You do get round shallots as well, however. Flavour – shallots and onions bring very different characteristics to a dish. If you’re looking for a gentler, sweeter variation on the onion theme, then shallots are for you.2 Why Grow Shallots? When it comes to gardening, shallots are easy to grow and perfectly suited to British gardens. There are plenty of varieties, too, meaning you can choose the one(s) best suited to your gardening skills and eventual culinary plans. How To Grow Shallots Like most vegetables that have become staples in British cuisine, shallots are easy to grow here. They’re not fussy about soil type, location, or anything else. One day, all this could be yours Planted properly and with a vigilant eye, you should have no problem between sowing and harvesting your crop. Where To Grow For best results, try to find a spot with moist but well-drained soil that gets full sunlight during the day. You can use a rake to get particularly big lumps out of the top layer of soil just before planting: this will reduce obstruction for your growing shallots, helping them to grow better. Planting You have two choices when growing shallots: to grow from seed, or from sets. Seeds don’t need an introduction, but if you’re not familiar with sets, they’re bulbs that haven’t reached full maturity, and which can be planted out to start a new crop. Received wisdom when growing shallots is that starting from sets is easier and, usually, will lead to a better harvest. This is because they mature more quickly, are more resilient to cold, and are less appealing to garden pests. When sowing your shallot sets, you’ve got a wide time window to work with. You can sow any time between mid-November and mid-March. From seed, you’ve only got mid-March to mid-April to work with. You’ll want to plant your sets in rows at least 40cm apart, with individual sets between 25-30cm apart in each row. This may seem like too much space when you plant them, but it gives the set space to mature and flourish without disturbing nearby growth. Planting shallots is easy: just poke the set gently into the ground so that the tip is just visible, then pat down the topsoil to keep them secure. Fertilising Before planting your shallots, fertilise the ground where they’ll be planted with one or two buckets of compost, manure, or similar. Then, after planting, add a small amount of fertiliser to the topsoil. Watering Shallots thrive when they get 2-3cm of water per week, especially at the height of growing season. Unless you’ve had an unusually dry spell, they should be OK with minimal watering. Using a rain gauge to check is one way to be sure they’re getting enough. Harvesting Because of the long planting season, you can harvest shallots at different times of the year. Generally, shallots planted in autumn will be ready to harvest early the following summer, and those planted in spring should be ready when autumn rolls around. “I live in an area with relatively mild winters and shallots tend to do better over winter than when planted in spring,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I expect this would be different in colder winter regions and that hotter, drier summers in the southeast would also produce a better spring-planted crop.” Expect to wait around 90 days. You can tell when your shallots are ready to harvest because the vibrant green foliage starts to wither, turning brown and drying out, then, eventually, drooping down from their previously erect stature. When they’re ready to pick, gently remove your shallots from the ground. You can do this by hand or by using a fork or similar implement to shimmy them out of the soil. It’s easiest to harvest when the soil is dry, so unless you’re forecast for a lot of rain, wait until the weather is conducive. Storage We figure you’re not planning to eat your entire harvest in one go, so unless you’re feeling generous and intend to give them all away, you’ll need to learn about shallot storage. The first step is to dry them out – the ideal way to achieve this is by leaving your harvested shallots on top of the soil they came from for a couple of days, so they can dry out in the sun. If wet weather is forecast, leave them to dry indoors instead. Then, once dried, trim any remaining foliage from the top of your shallots, and store them in a cool, dry place. Stored properly, you can expect your shallots to keep for at least two months. If they start to look mouldy or dishevelled, or they begin to sprout, this can indicate that they may have passed their best. Common Problems Shallots are prone to a few problems, but by staying vigilant and familiarising yourself with the risks, you should be able to avoid anything particularly disastrous happening. As a general rule, try to keep the foliage on your shallots dry when watering them. Lots of the common problems they face arise from getting wet and staying damp. Weeds Any gardener knows that weeds will find their way into pretty much any part of your garden, whether ornamental or edible. And while shallots are no exception to this avarice, you can grow them beneath weed suppressing membrane to reduce the chance of invasion, and effort required to hold an invasion at bay. Shallots will grow stronger and healthier if kept free of weeds, so try your best to keep on top of the weeding. Birds Inquisitive beaks love nothing more than to pull up bulbs in an attempt to determine whether they’re edible. If they are, say goodbye to your bulbs. And if not, don’t expect the birds to plant them again for you. To stop potentially disruptive bird visitations, grow your shallots beneath a layer of netting. Birds won’t be able to get a purchase, but the plant will still get enough sunlight and moisture – win-win! Onion White Rot This fungus damages the above-ground foliage as well as the roots and bulb, causing a lot of damage to your fledgling shallots. Unfortunately there’s no cure for infected soil, so be very careful to plant your shallots in fresh soil, or in spots you’re certain are free of infection. Onion Mildew This is another fungal disease which can wreak havoc upon foliage and bulbs. Unlike white rot it’s possible to curb the damage in an infected plant by removing affected areas, but you need to act early to avoid too much damage. Onion mildew is particularly prone to affect shallots growing in overly-damp conditions – an important reminder to only water when necessary, to only water the soil (rather than the entire plant), and in allowing proper drainage. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998b, July 20). Amaryllidaceae | Definition, Examples, Foods, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Amaryllidaceae 2. Anderson, P. (2019b, October 19). Yin and yang: what’s the difference between a shallot and an onion? The Guardian. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/food/2019/oct/20/yin-and-yang-whats-the-difference-between-a-shallot-and-an-onion
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Growing Salix Integra: 'Perfect For A Small Garden, With Great Autumn Colour'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Salix Integra? How To Grow Salix integra Common Problems Integrating A Hakuro-Nishiki References This intriguing deciduous shrub is a dwarf member of the Salix genus, more commonly known as willow. If you’re captivated by the willowy aesthetic but are in the majority of Brits whose garden is far too small to accommodate one, then it’s time to get yourself acquainted with Salix integra. “Salix integra is perfect for a small garden, providing the horticultural highlights of the Willow family but taking up a fraction of the space of other species,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “As well as spring catkins and attractive young growth, it has good autumn colour too. “If you have moist soil or a stream bank, this is an ideal shrub or small tree. The only downside is that it isn’t really suitable for dry and sandy sites unless irrigation is on standby in summer.” Boasting small white catkins, and with its canopy held proudly aloft by strong branches, this shrub makes a fantastic visual and ambient contribution to any outdoor space. Grown alone, or incorporated into displays with other flowers and plants, you’re sure to enjoy the visual treats it offers, with the main season of visual interest taking place in late April and early May. Overview Botanical Name Salix integra ‘Hakuro-nishiki’ Common Name(s) Flamingo Willow Plant Type Shrub / Tree / Hedging Native Area North-East Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Colourful foliage, yellow catkins When To Sow September, October Flowering Months April When To Prune February, March This dwarf willow cultivar is known as ‘Hakuro-nishiki’, which translates from Japanese as ‘Dappled Willow’. The name references the pink and white dappled markings on the leaves, which are a real treat to behold. The species is a native of northeast Asia, including Japan, Korea and Mongolia.1 Visually, it aligns well with a stereotypical Oriental floral aesthetic: gentle pinks and whites, with delicate leaves and petals. Why Grow Salix Integra? Many gardeners choose to grow a Hakuro-nishiki because of its size and appearance. The willow family has some strongly characteristic members, including the weeping willow that we’re all familiar with. Most varieties, however, are far too big to grow in the average British garden, meaning that those wanting to incorporate a willow are left to choose from just a small set of suitably sized varieties. S. integra sits comfortably within this bracket. S. integra’s popularity as a dwarf willow, along with how well-suited it is to grow in British conditions, has earned it the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. So, if you’re looking for an attractive, easy-to-grow, and captivating shrub for your garden, S. integra is the way to go. How To Grow Salix integra Hakuro-nishiki is most often sold grafted onto the stem of another willow, because its own stem growth is prone to be relatively weak. Grafting combines the beauty of S. integra with the structural integrity of a stronger plant, giving your shrub the best chance at sturdy growth. Once planted, the shrub is fairly easy to care for. You’ll need to prune occasionally and keep an eye on soil moisture levels, but there are no quirks to be aware of that make this plant hard to grow. Where To Grow When you’ve bought your grafted Salix plant, you’ll want to find a spot in your garden that sits in full sun or partial shade. Full sunlight isn’t required, but you will get to enjoy the most attractive colouration if your plant gets more sunlight. These trees grow naturally near flowing water, so they can tolerate more moisture than some others, but the soil they’re planted in must be able to drain well to prevent damage to the root system. In terms of pH level, this plant isn’t fussy. It will grow in acidic, alkaline, or neutral soil. Planting Tips When you’ve found the right spot in your garden, remove your grafted shrub from its pot, and place into a hole about twice as wide as the root ball. The hole should be about the same depth. To prepare the hole, add some blood, fish, and bone fertiliser before planting the Salix. Gently pack the soil in around the plant, ensuring it’s packed tightly enough to prevent much movement. The plant should be about the same depth in the ground as it was in the pot, to reduce the risk of shock. Leave around 60cm clear in each direction from the S. integra to give it space to grow. You can grow plants in the soil around and beneath your shrub, but let it get established first. Fertilising We mentioned adding blood, fish, and bone to the soil in the hole you plant your S. integra in. This will ensure good nutrition for the fledgling shrub. For ongoing care, S. integra likes a couple of inches of mulch each spring. Apply this around the base of the shrub, leaving a small ring clear immediately next to the trunk. Mulch will nourish your plant, but more important is the role it plays in conserving moisture and cooling the soil slightly. For additional nutrition, you can work some slow-release fertiliser into the ground surrounding your plant. Watering This plant can be sensitive to drier conditions, so keep an eye on the moisture levels. Once established, the weather should provide enough moisture to keep it healthy, but during particularly dry spells you may want to water it yourself. Immediately after planting, water the soil around the base of your S. integra. This has the combined benefit of providing moisture, and in helping to pack the new soil down, keeping the plant stable. Pruning It’s possible to get a second yearly burst of beautiful pink bloom if you prune your S. integra properly. The first thing to keep in mind is that you should avoid pruning in the first spring after you plant out your shrub. Pruning this soon after planting will cause more harm than good, and you’ll see much better results if you wait until the plant is established before taking the secateurs to it. Prune properly, and you’ll get two beautiful annual displays The first time you prune your Salix, in the spring two years after the autumn you planted it, cut back by a third. Remove sections that are touching the ground. The next two times, cut back by half and again remove sections touching the ground. Thereafter, you’ll be working with a plant with a fully developed root system. At this stage in its lifespan, the S. integra can tolerate the most pruning. Trim back your shrub to 60cm in height – while it may feel severe and even counterproductive to trim away so much, doing so will encourage the largest amount of growth the following spring. On top of this annual spring pruning session, you can cut back each stem by 30cm each July. This mini-prune will encourage another beautiful bloom later in the year. Common Problems While unlikely, this plant is liable to experience various problems. Familiarise yourself with the pests and diseases in this section to ensure quick and effective action should your plant be unlucky enough to experience problems. Aphids These suckers will quite literally suck the sap right out of the leaves of your shrub or tree, causing ongoing stress. They’re small and green, but visible to the naked eye if you look carefully. Try to brush away individual aphids or small groups, but if you notice them persevering on the plant nonetheless, consider moving on to more drastic measures. Such measures include introducing ladybirds or other predatory bugs to eat the aphids, or using pesticides to kill them off. Caterpillars Baby butterflies are far less majestic and attractive than their more mature cousins. Instead of fluttering daintily near your S. integra, they’ll have no shame munching its leaves and damaging its growth. If you notice caterpillars, follow the same steps outlined above for aphids. With caterpillars you also have the added advantage of being able to remove them before they hatch, preventing any damage to the vigilant gardener’s plant. Canker This malady is caused by fungal spores, which invade a plant and cause spots and scabs. If you see black spots in spring or summer on an otherwise-healthy looking shrub, it may be indicative of infection. As the disease progresses, the blemishes make their way along stems and toward the main trunk. Each blemish puts forth spores in autumn which are then spread around the plant and to surrounding plants, causing further damage. Sadly it’s not possible to treat existing cankers, but you can prune away infected sections and apply fungicides to nearby growth to reduce the risk of spread. When it comes to canker, vigilance and quick action is of paramount importance. Rust Another fungal disease, this time causing rust-colour patches on leaves and plant damage as a result. By picking off infected leaves as soon as you see damage, you may be able to stop the spread. If you weren’t quick enough, however, various fungicides are available to keep things in check. With rust, prevention is the best cure; avoid elevating the nitrogen content of the soil around your S. integra, as this promotes the type of growth most prone to rust. Integrating A Hakuro-Nishiki While subtle, having a dwarf shrub in your garden that evokes similar themes to a full-size tree contributes a very distinct visual element. The shape and form of a S. integra can act as the basis or backdrop for all manner of visual displays. Its white-pink blooms look great against a wide array of colours – and a well-cared-for, mature shrub will make a fine centrepiece for your garden. References 1. Salix integra. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:777860-1
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You Can’t Go Far Wrong With Moneymaker Tomatoes - How To Grow And Care For Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Moneymaker Tomatoes Plant Care Harvesting Moneymakers Common Problems ‘Moneymaker’ are a popular type of bright, juicy tomato grown in many areas of the UK. This variety is a popular one to grow, although this is more thanks to its reliability and ease of growing than its taste which, while good, arguably doesn’t compete with some other tomato varieties. If you’re looking for an easy-to-grow tomato, however, you can’t go far wrong with ‘Moneymaker’. You’ll enjoy a hassle-free growing experience, and typically a more bountiful harvest than you might otherwise expect. Overview Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum ‘Moneymaker’ Common Name(s) Moneymaker Tomatoes Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Tomato vines Flowers Yellow When To Sow (Indoors) January, February, March, April, May Plant Out June Flowering Months June to September Moneymakers are cordon-type tomatoes, meaning they require pruning to encourage optimum growth. It’s an annual, meaning the plant will die in winter and require new sowing for next year, but it’s quick and easy to grow from readily-available seeds, so this shouldn’t present too much of a setback. If you’re looking for oval-shaped tomatoes, or ones in exciting colours like green, yellow, orange, and purple, you’ll need to look elsewhere. How To Grow Moneymaker Tomatoes I grew Moneymaker tomatoes earlier this year – initially by propagating from seed in February using a heated propagator, then by planting out in May into the raised beds in my back garden. I found them to be generally quite easy to grow from seed – including being low maintenance and high-yielding. See some of my results (including some images of my ripened tomatoes) below: Growing From Seed For best results, you’ll want to sow your ‘Moneymaker’ seeds indoors and harden off the young plants before planting them out. You can plant seeds outdoors, but it’s not optimal. I definitely found that the 2-3 month extension in growing time (through indoors propagation) resulted in much greater growth and a higher yield than I would have expected growing outdoors. In late February or early March, sow your ‘Moneymaker’ seeds in pots. Then, in mid-April, pot up the young plants and continue to grow indoors. Seedlings are ready for potting up when there are two pairs of leaves. Harden them off in early May, before planting outdoors in mid-May. This should ensure your plants are strong enough to hold their own against the elements, and minimises any risk of frost exposure. In the year just gone I waited a little later to plant out (until the end of May) and ultimately felt that I should have taken the plunge sooner. For sowing, use free-draining seed-sowing soil, with a thin layer of compost on top. When growing from seed you should see sprouts within one to two weeks. Where To Grow This variety of tomato will do best in a spot that gets a lot of sunlight, ideally six hours or more per day, with well-drained soil. Although the seeds are small, factor in a full-sized tomato plant when spacing them out. This means leaving about a 90cm gap between plants in each direction. You can also grow Moneymaker tomatoes in a greenhouse. If you’re doing this, you can plant out a little earlier – around early April – because the greenhouse will protect against the cooler outdoor conditions. Plant Care Support Moneymakers grow to be quite large, so supporting them with a stake is a good way to encourage strong growth. Simply push a stake around 180cm high into the ground, with 25-30cm below the soil – place this about 30cm behind each plant. As the young plant grows, use string to gently tie the stem onto the stake. Avoid tight knots as they can suffocate the plant and restrict ongoing growth. Feeding To provide nourishment to your fledgling tomatoes and help the soil to retain moisture, apply 3-5cm of mulch around the plants. You should also apply some high Potassium fertiliser fortnightly once fruits begin to appear. This ensures optimal nutrition and plump, juicy fruits – leave about 15cm clear in all directions from the plant stem when fertilising, to avoid stifling growth. Watering Water your seedlings as soon as you’ve planted them, so that ~15cm of topsoil is moist. Water a couple of times a week when the top 3cm of soil feels dry. Tomatoes are fairly thirsty, and will require weekly watering throughout the growing season. Pruning Another way to encourage an optimal amount of fruit from your tomato plant is to cut off any shoots that start growing between the main stem and the smaller leaf stems. Also remove any vertical growth beyond 6 or 7 fruit-bearing trusses. Although it may seem counterintuitive to deliberately curtail growth, you’ll be helping the plant to allocate its resources and energy to developing the healthiest and tastiest fruits on its main stems. Harvesting Moneymakers Your plant should be ready to harvest between July and September, depending on when you planted it out and the exact conditions where you live. You’ll be able to tell when they’re ready: the fruits will be big, juicy, and tempting. Here are the ones I grew when they were finally ready to harvest: Harvesting is simply a case of picking the tomatoes and storing them indoors. Regular harvesting increases the likelihood of further fruiting during a season, too. Common Problems There are a few pests who are keen to get at tomatoes. Aphids The little sap-suckers love to feed on plants of all shapes and sizes, with a particular proclivity to choose the ones we value most. It’s not unusual to see aphids feasting on Moneymaker tomatoes, and the first step is vigilance. If you notice the green visitors, try first to remove them by hand and discourage further visits. If this doesn’t work, you can try to introduce predator bugs like ladybirds. Blight Moneymakers are a common victim of blight, which makes itself known through brown spots and rings on the plant’s leaves. “Tomato blight can be tragic: watching plants rapidly succumb to dark blotching and knowing there’s no further action possible other than the destruction of the plant,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Once infected, the only viable course of action to prevent further damage is to destroy the plant. This will stop blight spreading to surrounding plants and, while losing an entire plant is upsetting, it’s preferable to losing all of them. “I have found that growing plants in a rain shadow, against a sunny wall where rain rarely lands directly on the leaves, helps enormously,” adds Peter. “It does increase the watering work, but it gives you control over moisture. This, in turn, helps prevent fruit splitting and blossom end rot, which are products of erratic rainfall.” These fruits are tasty, easy to grow, and capable of producing multiple sets of fruit each season – what more could you ask for! You should now be ready to order some seeds, grab a few stakes, and get your tomato harvest started. Happy harvesting!
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How To Grow And Care For Hebe According To Professional Grower Charlie Bewley
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Hebe Plant Care & Growing Tips Classification References Hebe is a plant known to be bushy and sprawling to upright and trim, with foliage ranging from greyish blue-green to a brilliant emerald hue. With inflorescences in all kinds of shapes including spires, sprays, and ‘puffballs’, and in colours ranging from pastel pink to deep purple, this shrub spoils you for choice. These immensely likeable plants are low-care evergreens; they are easy as 1-2-3: Plant, Gaze, and be Delighted! We reached out to Charlie Bewley from Hic Bibi Wholesale Nurseries to contribute to this guide. Pressed on his love for these plants, Charlie answers: “Hebes are evergreen, have a good range of foliage and flower colour and bees love their flowers – we get plenty of bees and other insects visiting our crops.” Overview Botanical Name Hebe Plant Type Shrub / Hedging Native Area New Zealand, Rapa, Falklands, South America Hardiness Rating H3/H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Racemes or spikes of small flowers When To Sow April, May, June, July, August, September Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune April, May Hebe is a genus of evergreens that is native to New Zealand. They are evergreens and are technically shrubs, most of which are of a bushy habit though there is variation in size; two or three species can reach even 2-2.5m in height. Some species have a mat-forming habit and a few have an erect habit. Though Hebe varieties’ leaves are simple and paired, quite a number of varieties are interesting for – besides other properties – the foliage, as their leaves display unusual textures, hues of green, or eye-catching variegation. As for the flowers, their delightful inflorescences come in a diversity of shapes – tubular, sprays, spires, rays, salvers, ‘puffballs’ – and a range of colours across the blue-red spectrum, from the palest pastel to the deepest tone. Adding to their charms, they flower all through summer and autumn with some varieties producing blooms in winter as well! These wonderful plants are not only diverse and delightful, but they are also easy-care, trouble-free, tough, and well-suited to the British Isles as evidenced by the fact that RHS has accorded its Award of Garden Merit to thirty Hebe varieties.1 Charlie cites Hebe pinguifolia ‘Pagei’ as one of his favourite varieties because of its unique foliage shape and subtle colour. “Hebe ‘Pagei’ has delicate little globular foliage in a silvery colour. It is a spreading variety, so it is great for ground cover.” If you’re a gardener who takes pleasure and joy from Nature’s boon of flowering plants in all their diverse beauty, then Hebe is one of your top picks. Habitat & Growing Conditions All but a few species of Hebe are native to New Zealand.2 Though they grow throughout the island country, one cluster of species is partial to riparian zones and another grouping is concentrated in the country’s sub-alpine locations. Sunlight & Aspect In the wild these plants are found in open, unsheltered areas where they get full sun and also ‘full wind’, so to speak. Therefore, these fuss-free plants are happiest in full sun but also do well in partial shade. As a bonus, aspect has no bearing on these plants. They are more tolerant of stiff winds than other similarly-sized plants. “With many Hebe being mounded and possessing tight, leathery leaves, it is not surprising that they can stand up to strong winds,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “This makes Hebe great for coastal regions, but the hardier alpine varieties are also suitable for colder, windy areas.” The variance and diversity in Hebe extends to their Hardiness Zones which range from a low of USDA 7 to a high of 11 – or H3/H4 by RHS classifications. Planting Hebe When To Plant April to June is the best time to plant (or transplant) Hebe plants outdoors. This would allow ample time for their roots to get established before the onset of winter. You can help along new plants’ root systems by watering them but not giving them any fertiliser. Where To Plant Hebe can be planted in almost any type of soil including poor soil. What they value more than anything else is sun and light, so put them in a location where they get full sun or the maximum amount of sun. This should not be misunderstood to mean that Hebe prefer high heat; in fact, they do best where the summers are cool to temperate. You don’t have to plant Hebe by the seaside or in a coastal area but this is one plant that you can grow without any anxiety in locations which have that tang of sea-salt – sea spray – in the air. Hebe plants should be planted in the appropriate location depending on the size, habit, foliage, and flowers of the variety in question. Though Hebe plants are considered – with justification – ideally suited to informal gardens and cottage gardens, their enormous diversity means that a few varieties would be top choices for architectural plantings, e.g. H. ‘Emerald Gem’ and Hebe salicifolia, while some varieties would be top choices for balcony pots, e.g. H. ‘Red Edge’ and H. ‘Youngii.’ H. ‘Emerald Gem’ Plant Care & Growing Tips Soil Soil may be virtually any type at all except for heavy, dense, clay soils. Slightly Alkaline pH is ideal though the pH may be anything from Neutral to Moderately Alkaline. These plants should have well-drained soil but even here what is a ‘must’ for the vast majority of plants is a ‘nice to have’ for most varieties. Feeding Hebe does not need or even really benefit a great deal from being fed. That said, they can certainly be given some general fertiliser or bone meal in spring. Where Hebe and fertilising are concerned, experiment but be conservative and cautious. Winter Care The one area that Hebe do require a watchful eye, and care as needed, is where the winter weather is concerned. Be aware of the hardiness zones of your Hebe varieties because most of them are right on the border for United Kingdom locations. If you live in a cold region and you feel your Hebe may not be hardy, play it safe, mulch the plant, and shelter it from the weather. Classification It is necessary to mention that the Botanical classification and taxonomy of genera and species are subject to disagreement and revision, and Hebe is a prime example of such disagreement.3 For instance, even as Genus Hebe was subsumed within Genus Veronica by some scientists, others segregated a species group from Genus Hebe to its own, new, genus!4 Even the number of species in the genus is in dispute because there is no consensus as to which species belongs where. In our overview we treat Hebe as a genus, i.e. Genus Hebe. It has about 189 species and about 800 cultivars. Of the 189 species only 15 are officially accepted!5 Although the genus Hebe has been subsumed within the genus Veronica by botanists6, many plants continue to be sold as Hebe.7 After much hybridisation and cultivation, quite a staggering variety of Hebe plants have been developed. Partly as a result of these efforts they are – at least superficially if not morphologically – wonderfully varied and disparate. References 1. See RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) plant, fruit & veg award winners. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/trials-awards/award-of-garden-merit 2. Hebe. (n.d.). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/hebe 3. Wagstaff, S., Bayly, M., Garnock-Jones, P., & Albach, D. (2002). Classification, Origin, and Diversification of the New Zealand Hebes (Scrophulariaceae). JSTOR. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.jstor.org/stable/3298656 4. Garnock-Jones, P. (n.d.). Heliohebe (Scrophulariaceae – Veroniceae), a new genus segregated from Hebe. New Zealand Journal of Botany, 31(4), 323–339. https://doi.org/10.1080/0028825X.1993.10419510 5. International Register of Hebe Cultivars. (n.d.). Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rnzih.org.nz/Book_Reviews/Hebe_Register-2.htm 6. Plants of the World Online. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/results?q=Hebe 7. Hebe. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved June 13, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/hebe
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25 Gorgeous Flowers Gardeners Recommend To Sow Or Plant In April
IN THIS GUIDE Annual Flower Seeds To Sow In April 1) Alyssum 2) Amaranthus 3) Borage 4) Calendula 5) Cornflowers 6) Cosmos 7) Marigolds 8) Nasturtiums 9) Nicotiana 10) Poppies 11) Sunflowers 12) Sweet Peas 13) Zinnias Perennials To Sow Or Plant In April 14) Agastache 15) Korean Angelica 16) Astrantias 17) Comfrey 18) Crambe cordifolia 19) Lavender 20) Monarda didyma 21) Nepeta 22) Salvias 23) Scabious 24) Verbena bonariensis 25) Yarrow April is a busy time in the garden, as the weather begins to warm and we leave the frosts behind. April is a very variable month, and there are some years when it almost feels like summer, and others when winter still seems to cling on. But no matter what the weather is like, there is plenty that you can be getting on with in the garden this month. If you grow your own, April is a time when you will likely be sowing many seeds for your kitchen garden. But as well as sowing a range of fruit and vegetable seeds this month, you should also make sure you make time for ornamental and wildlife-friendly flowering plants too. Annual Flower Seeds To Sow In April In April, one of the main jobs will be sowing annual flower seeds. Some should be sown indoors, ready to plant out when the weather warms, while some others can be sown directly into your garden. “April is a busy month in the garden, with my greenhouse (the engine room of the garden) full to bursting, Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist, says. “At this point in the year, many of the more tender flowers and vegetables can be sown under glass. “Some plants can sown outdoors, but those that need a warmer soil temperature should wait until May (check soil packets for germination temperatures and sowing times).” Here are some of my favourite annual flowers that you can think about sowing this month: 1) Alyssum Sweet alyssum, Lobularia maritima, is relatively easy to grow from seed in spring and will flower between June and October. It is a great choice for borders, alpine gardens, hanging baskets or planters. Sow indoors in March or April and plant out later in May. 2) Amaranthus Amaranthus is a rather spectacular and dramatic flower to grow and amaranth also provides edible yields – the leaves can be cooked like spinach. Sow indoors this month to plant out once the weather has warmed, in ornamental beds or borders, or in your vegetable plot. 3) Borage Borage is a favourite of mine. After sowing it once, it should self-seed readily in the right conditions and you may not need to sow it anew each year. Not only does borage have beautiful blue flowers, rich in nectar for bees and other pollinators. It is also an edible flower, great in salads and summer drinks. Sow borage direct in the garden, after the last frosts in your area. 4) Calendula Calendula can also be direct sown this month in the garden in many parts of the UK, or you can sow indoors to plant out a little later if you prefer. Calendula is another attractive and useful plant, which is great for you, and for the beneficial insects in your garden. 5) Cornflowers Cornflowers are very pretty additions to a mixed border, but as with the options mentioned above, can also blend in nicely and attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to your edible garden areas. They are lovely with other cornfield flowers. Sow cornflowers direct into your garden later this month, or next. 6) Cosmos These cheerful, colourful flowers are a great choice for many gardens. And these are one more seed to consider sowing indoors this month, in seed trays or flats, soil blocks or modules. Harden them off and plant them out next month. Sowing early indoors means you can enjoy their blooms over as long a period as possible. 7) Marigolds Marigolds are another flower to sow indoors in April to plant out in May once the weather has reliably warmed. These are another cheerful and colourful choice, and another great option to consider for companion planting in your vegetable garden. 8) Nasturtiums Nasturtiums are another reliable favourite, easy for anyone to sow and grow. They are really bright and really useful in a range of ways. These flowers can also be sown indoors this month to plant out after hardening off into your garden. They’re not only beautiful – you can eat them too. 9) Nicotiana It is not too late to sow nicotiana (tobacco plant) this month. These attractive and popular plants are great for a wildlife-friendly garden, and can flower from June right through to October. Sow between February and April indoors, then wait until June to plant out. 10) Poppies Poppies, like cornflowers, are attractive meadow or cornfield flowers that look great in many gardens, either as part of mixed borders, or wildflower planting schemes. It is best to direct sow annual poppies where they are to grow, in a sunny and open spot. Like other flowers on this list, they can often self-seed readily. 11) Sunflowers Sunflowers are another incredibly easy flower to grow. Whether you grow them yourself, or get kids involved, this month is a good time to get them growing indoors before you plant them out as soon as the risk of frost has passed in your area. 12) Sweet Peas Sweet peas can also be sown this month, either in seed trays undercover, or direct in warmer and more southerly areas. These are classics for many gardeners in the UK, and are an easy annual to start with if you have just been bitten by the gardening bug. 13) Zinnias Sow zinnias indoors in a free-draining medium this month, and plant them out in May or June. Then you can enjoy their colourful, daisy flowers for a long period between July and October. Remember, these annuals are not only great options for bedding and borders. They can also find a place as companion plants in your kitchen garden. Some of the options on the list above (borage, cornflowers and poppies) are sometimes included in wildflower mixes. It is worthwhile seeking out suitable wildflower mixes for your area as April is a great time to sow seed for a wildflower or cornfield meadow planting scheme. Perennials To Sow Or Plant In April A number of perennials can also be sown in spring, and April is a good time to start on that garden job too. Certain perennials can also be planted out into your garden this month, as the best time to plant many herbaceous perennials is either in spring or autumn. Remember, perennials won’t just enrich your garden for a single summer, they will return year after year. Here are just a few great perennial flowering plants to consider: 14) Agastache Anise hyssop is a great plant for bees and other pollinators, and a useful herb as well as a flowering plant. Sow this and other Agastache varieties in a seedbed between March and May before transplanting them to their final growing positions in early autumn for flowers the following summer. Or you can look to plant out pot grown plants in May or June. 15) Korean Angelica Angelica gigas is another dramatic and attractive perennial plant. You can sow it undercover between March and May, then harden off and plant out to enjoy spectacular displays between May and September which will bring plenty of pollinators and other beneficial insects to your garden. 16) Astrantias Sow Astrantias this month, then plant between May and September. They will add visual appeal to your garden from June through to October and draw in a wide range of wildlife with their pollen and nectar-rich flowers. 17) Comfrey Comfrey is a very useful plant to have in an organic garden and it can be rather ornamental too, with bee-friendly flowers. Sow seeds this month or plant out between May and September. Purple, pinkish or white flowers will appear between June and early September. 18) Crambe cordifolia This is a somewhat more unusual perennial to consider for your garden – it blooms with an abundance of small white flowers. This is another seed you can sow this month. It is not just ornamental but is also a very useful perennial vegetable crop. 19) Lavender Plant out lavender in your garden this month and you can enjoy the fragrance and beauty of this well-known herb and flowering plant from July to September. Bees love it, as do many other insects – and it is great next to a seating area where you can enjoy the lovely smell. 20) Monarda didyma Bergamot or bee balm is another great perennial to choose for a wildlife-friendly garden. Seeds can be sown any time from late winter through to spring. Pot up seeds once they are large enough to handle, then plant out in May or June for stunning red flowers between June and August. 21) Nepeta Catnip, or catmint, is another great flowering herb to sow this month. Sow this month, or purchase pot grown plants, and plant out in the garden in May or June for pretty flowers right through from June until October. 22) Salvias Salvias are also great long-blooming perennial flowering plants. Plant out this month or next, to enjoy blooms which, depending on variety, can extend all through summer and perhaps even continue as late as November. 23) Scabious Perennial scabious can be planted out any time between April and September. The flowers are great for wildlife, and pincushion flowers also make wonderful cut flowers. Existing plants can also be divided this month to obtain new plants and ease any overcrowding. 24) Verbena bonariensis Verbena bonariensis, Argentinian vervain, can be sown this month, and/or planted out any time between May and September. The beautiful purpose flowers, great for a wildlife-friendly garden, will bloom between July and October. 25) Yarrow Last but not least, yarrow (Achillea) is another great perennial flowering plant to sow this month or in May, to plant out in May or June. It can also be sown in early autumn. This is another of my favourite plants for a wildlife-friendly and beautiful garden.
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How To Grow Auriculas - Begin With Border, Garden Or Alpine Types
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Growing From Seed Where To Plant Plant Care Temperature Soil & Watering Feeding Pruning Common Problems Auriculas produce flowers in an amazing array of colours and patterns, from essentially ‘block colour’ blooms in bright cheery tones through to highly intricate patterns comprising of daubs, stripes, and gradations in hues both diffuse and striking. Their diverse varieties mean that these herbaceous perennials are perfect for beds and borders but also for greenhouse cultivation and decorative planters. Centuries of such cross-breeding and confusion mean that – though there may or may not be such a thing as an ‘Auricula Society’ or a ‘Primula Society’ – there is such a thing as the ‘Auricula and Primula Society’ – several of them, in fact. They occur as salver-shaped single flowers and complex, ruffled double flowers. Overview Botanical Name Primula auricula L. Common Name(s) Auricula Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H5-H7 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Solitary or umbels of salver-shaped flowers in pink, purple, yellow, white and dark green When To Sow January or February Flowering Months April, May Some of these, for example, Primula ‘Cinnamon’, could even be mistaken for a type of rose. Double Auriculas claim among them a few of the rare flowers that come in leaf green, and have pure black colouration. As for the single types, the descriptor ‘salver’ is a particularly apt one, for a large number of varieties resemble hand-painted miniature porcelain crockery. Self Show Auriculas The ‘basic’, simplest types are identified by the flowers’ velvety appearance, white central disc and bi-tonal gradation on the corolla, as professional gardener Roy Nicol shares: “Some plants have a white or yellow powder called the farina coating the leaves and, on occasion, the flower.” ‘Basic’ or ‘complex’, one way or another Auriculas are highly ornamental plants that bear showy flowers – and ultra-showy or ‘show-offy’ flowers in view of their unique and complex patterns, extraordinary palette, and countless colour combinations. These supremely ornamental plants come at a price, however. Not surprisingly, in general the more ‘complex’ and prized the variety, the more difficult it is to grow and the more high-maintenance it is. I’d advise that even experienced gardeners who want to take the plunge into growing Auriculas would do well to begin by growing Border or Garden Types and Alpine types. For gardeners who are diligent and determined, Auriculas are quite possibly the top choice to introduce unmatched colours, show, and ornamental interest to your garden. Habitat & Growing Conditions As Auricula originate in Alpine and Sub-Alpine regions, cool to cold, dry climates suit them best. They are also accustomed to frequent rainfall but must have well-drained soils. Though Auricula species are hardy enough to thrive in exposed locations, cultivars should be grown in sheltered locations. All varieties are winter hardy, and their hardiness spans USDA Zones 3 to 8 (H5 to H7 RHS Zones). How To Grow Growing From Seed There is no agreement on the best season to plant Auricula seeds. The answers you get will vary by society, nursery, or expert, and will span the year from November through July! Personally, I would propose that seeds be sown as winter transitions into spring. Where To Plant Border Auriculas have a name that indicates just where they ought to be planted – borders and also beds and rock gardens, which is where Auricula species can be planted too, and also Alpine types if the climate is suitable. All types are excellent choices for small gardens and for courtyards. Show types are perfect to grow as specimen plants in terracotta pots and in small, decorative planters in a cold greenhouse. Auricula varieties need to be grown in a location where they get part-sun part-shade, are protected from high heat and humidity, and are sheltered from harsh elements but where there is a free flow of fresh air. “After overwintering under protection, Auriculas are often displayed in ‘Auricula Theatres’ when they come into bloom, where they can be displayed to their best advantage,” explains Roy. Plant Care As a general rule, Auricula species and the Border or Garden types are the least difficult to grow, and the Show Types, such as Fancy Show, being quite difficult. Temperature These often need to be grown in a cold greenhouse or in a cold frame. It should not get too hot, too dry, too wet – they are sensitive plants and require care, alertness, and gardening expertise. Because most Show Varieties can be finicky, what one can offer in an outline are broad recommendations that may need tweaking and tuning. Soil & Watering These plants should be grown in humus-rich soil or compost-based loam; in either case some grit or gravel should be mixed in. The soil should drain very well but should be kept moist in spring and summer. They need frequent but moderate watering but only through spring and summer. In the winter months they should be kept dry and get a mere sprinkling of water. Free-flowing fresh air is necessary for Auricula health. Feeding You may apply a general-purpose organic fertiliser in January. In April, lightly feed the plants with 5-10-5 fertiliser to boost flowering. Pruning These small plants do not need pruning other than removal of diseased or abnormal parts. All you need do is deadhead in the flowering season. Common Problems Auriculas are among those plants that are most prone to pests and diseases – you could almost say, if a plant disease or pest exists, Auricula cultivars – and even some species – are susceptible to it. A laundry list of diseases and pests includes, leaf aphids, root aphids, leafhoppers, glasshouse red spider mite, vine weevils, slugs, botrytis aka grey moulds, leaf spot, and plant viruses. From among all of these worrying threats we feel that root aphids, botrytis AKA grey mould, and vine weevil pose the greatest danger to Auriculas in the UK. Skilled and experienced gardeners may be able to cure plants taken down by these problems. Where these sensitive plants are concerned, the best plan is to be vigilant and practise prevention by following the plant care recommendations above.
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Growing Scabiosa (Pincushions) - 'Use Them In Many Ways And Across Many Garden Styles'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Naming Confusion Hardiness How To Grow Scabiosa Pincushion Plant Care Pruning Common Problems References Rich in colours, profuse in blooms, low in maintenance, and charming in appearance – that’s the Scabiosa plant for you. As for said charming appearance, it is the result of the structure of the flower’s receptacle, florets, and stamens, which make it resemble a pincushion! What do you call a flowering plant whose blooms have such different and varying forms, shapes, and petal arrangements that you would need over a score of descriptions for them? You can call it Scabiosa. Or, to add to the confusion: Scabious, Knautia, and Pincushion Flower! Adding even further dimension to the plant is the diverse array of colours the flowers come in, ranging from white to near-black, and in tones pastel through brilliant to saturated. Overview Botanical Name Scabiosa Common Name(s) Scabious, Pincushion Flowers Plant Type Perennial / Annual / Biennial Flower Native Area Africa, Europe & Asia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pincushion flower heads with enlarged outer florets When To Sow March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August Scabiosa species come in both annual and perennial types, with even a few biennials squeezed in between. As such, there’s a Scabiosa variety to suit every taste and every garden, from among its 68 species (which are typically under-counted) and about 240 hybrids and cultivars (not counting synonyms).1 The Scabiosa genus is a member of the Honeysuckle Family.2 Its species are native throughout the Temperate and Sub-Tropical zones of Europe, Asia, and Africa.3 They do not grow in Tropical zones except for a few countries in Central Africa but some species, e.g. Centaurea scabiosa subsp. scabiosa, grow in even the Polar and Sub-Polar zones of Northern Russia, including Siberia. The heaviest concentration of Scabiosa varieties is found in Mediterranean lands. Naming Confusion As for the various names for this plant, they are not exactly synonymous. There is some overlap, disagreement, and – that word again – confusion as to which name applies to which plants or which genus. Scabious used to be the common name for a set of loosely-identified flowering plants, and was – and still is – used interchangeably with the proper genus name, Scabiosa. However, the common and non-technical name ‘Scabious’ actually identifies a subset of plants from Genus Scabiosa, and a subset of plants from related Genus Knautia. And what about ‘Pincushion Flower’? Pincushion is a purely visually descriptive name that identifies many varieties of both Scabiosa and Knautia. The reason is that several varieties have a rounded, clearly convex, receptacle from which numerous and prominent stamens protrude, bringing to mind a pincushion. One can only hope that this little exposition reduces the confusion and certainly does not add to it! Where there cannot be any confusion is in what these easy-going plants would bring to your garden: gaiety, butterflies, that little bit of ‘something different’ and a riotous medley of colours all through summer and even into early autumn. Hardiness The great diversity in Scabiosa species’ habitats means, quite naturally, that they are adapted to different climate zones. Columbaria varieties usually are hardy from USDA zones 3 to 8 (RHS H5-H7) and Atropurpurea varieties from 4 to 11 (RHS H1C-H7). Caucasica varieties are native to a very wide range and this is reflected in their hardiness zones from 2 through 9 (RHS H3-H7). How To Grow Scabiosa In general, you can let Scabiosa ‘run free’ in your garden with other wildflowers for an Alpine Meadow effect. Then can be grown densely in beds or in ‘single file’ for colourful edging of walkways. “There are species with smaller flowers and cultivars with large flowers, taller and shorter species and cultivars,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “This means that Scabiosa can be used in many ways and across many styles in the garden. I prefer to use them in meadow-style planting where their loose floral habit lends itself to the aesthetic.” They are also wonderful companion plants to set off other plants and flowers that would be focal points. However, the varieties are sufficiently different to call for very different treatments. For example, S. graminifolia would be pefect for a rear patch of your garden or lawn, whereas S. caucasica ‘Fama White’ could be used as clumping companion plants to set off a focal point, be it a rose bush or stargazers, and S. atropurpurea ‘Fire King’ could be given a small flower bed of its own or grown in pots on a balcony. No matter where you plant Scabiosa, they should be placed in very well-drained soil and get full sun. All Scabiosa species should be grown in early to mid-spring though the perennials can be started in early autumn too. As annuals, S. atropurpurea are grown by seed. S. columbaria varieties are usually propagated from basal cuttings and by plant division. S. caucasica varieties are grown by seed as well as from basal cuttings besides which they are also propagated by division. Pincushion Plant Care As extraordinarily low-maintenance plants, you do not really need to care, as such, for them. All you need to do to keep them happy is guard against some no-nos. First, they have a strong preference for full sun. Humidity and dampness play a large part in how well Scabiosa thrive – they do not prefer very wet or humid climates. Moderate or low rainfall and dry weather suits these plants very well. In general you can’t go wrong with chalky, loamy soils that have a neutral pH tending to alkaline. Soil must be well drained. Scabiosa like rich soils but cannot tolerate heavy soils or clay soils. Soil that retains dampness will cause the plant to start rotting – these plants are averse to shade and high humidity. Pruning As with virtually everything to do with this carefree plant, pruning is a simple affair. Withered blooms should be deadheaded; this will keep the flowers coming. If a perennial variety has become overly bushy or lop-sided, you may prune it by cutting directly above a limited number of leaf stalks. Such species may also be cut back in the autumn. Common Problems These remarkable plants are among the most disease-free and pest-resistant. This is another, and very important, reason that they are so low-maintenance. Only some species may succumb on occasion to powdery mildew. References 1. Scabiosa. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:14326-1 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998j, July 20). Scabious | Description & Major Species. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/scabious 3. Scabiosa. (n.d.-b). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Scabiosa+columbaria
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