Growing
Easy To Grow And Bountiful Yields - Here's How To Grow Carrots Successfully
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Carrot Varieties Why Grow Them? How To Grow Carrots Where To Grow Them How To Plant Carrots Propagation References Carrots are cheap, versatile, and delicious. Originally hailing from Asia and since taking the entire world by storm, carrots can be found at the heart of almost every global cuisine.1 Whether used as a centrepiece in a salad, or as an aromat, like in a mirepoix at the heart of a rich spaghetti Bolognese, carrots bring a unique and distinct flavour to any dish they grace with their presence. “Although biennial, this plant has a delicate lacy flower that changes in colour from white to red once it’s completed flowering, turning inwards,” says Garden Designer Anca Panait. “It self-seeds and is best used in naturalistic wild combinations along grasses, chicory and cornflower.” They’re easy to grow, too – as you’d expect from a plant which has been a staple in cuisine around the world and within all socioeconomic levels for generations. Getting carrots established in your garden requires minimal time and effort, and practically guarantees a bountiful harvest. This guide will tell you everything you know to get your carroty cornucopia overflowing. Overview Botanical Name Daucus carota subsp. Sativus Common Name(s) Carrot Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Europe, South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Rosette of edible leaves When To Sow March, April, May, June, July These root vegetables, most often orange but also available in an exciting array of other colours, are formally known as Daucus carota subsp. sativus. They hail from the Umbelliferae family, making carrots close genetic cousins to celery, parsley, and other such aromatic plants.2 The name ‘carrot’ derives from the ancient Indo-European word ker, meaning horn: Implying that their most identifying characteristic is a vague resemblance to an animal’s horn.3 Carrot Varieties Most people think of the standard orange carrot when the vegetable is mentioned. These are far and away the most commonly encountered carrot here in Britain, but don’t let that fool you into thinking it’s your only option when growing your own. “I love growing Daucus carota ‘Dara’,” says Horticulturist Ann-Marie Powell. “It is such an amazing plant for growing in pots.” Growing carrots at home gives you access to many exciting varieties in an array of colours that will impress your friends and liven up your cooking. Below we’ll introduce a few of these, along with the only carrot to receive the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit. D. carota ‘Flyaway’ ‘Flyaway’ is a proud recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit: recognition that it grows exceptionally well in the UK.4 These compact orange carrots pack a sweet punch, and are a fantastic introduction to gardeners looking to grow their own carrots. They enjoy full sun, a west- or south-facing aspect, and shelter. In terms of soil, they won’t thrive in chalk, but aren’t fussy with pH. D. carota ‘Purple Haze’ Jimi Hendrix sang about purple haze, but it’s unlikely that song alluded to the joys offered by carrots. While this variety probably won’t make you want to kiss the sky, it will make a fine introduction to growing carrots that aren’t orange. The bold purple colouration is even brighter when you peel away the skin, making these great for cooking. ‘Purple Haze’ enjoys the same growing conditions as ‘Flyaway’, but avoid clayey soil as well as chalk. D. carota ‘Nutri-Red’ Here’s another variety offering a slightly different colour to the default orange. The red tint found in ‘Nutri-Red’ intensifies when cooked, giving an exciting visual element to any dish that contains them. Conditions are the same as ‘Purple Haze’. D. carota ‘White Satin’ We’ve had orange, purple, and red – why not white? These carrots are low in carotenoid, the chemical that gives carrots their familiar hue, making them great for people with allergies, or for people just wanting yet another colour of carrot to play with when cooking. Why Grow Them? While carrots are cheap to buy, growing your own is fun and rewarding. They’re easy to grow, making them a great introduction for fledgling gardeners. They’ll last a long time once harvested, giving you a plentiful supply of carrots to use in your kitchen. How To Grow Carrots The first step when growing carrots is to prepare the soil, to ensure their roots can grow unobstructed into the ground. You’ll want to till about 30cm of topsoil, taking care to remove rocks, clumps, and other obstacles. “My top tip is not to apply manure to the soil you grow roots like carrots, as it can cause them to grow misshapen normally with multiple tap roots,” says Dan Ori, a Horticultural Instructor. “This misshaping of roots is called forking.” If it’s not possible to till this much soil because of obstructions, consider growing our carrots in a raised bed. “Carrots can be grown outside year-round, but they will need some protection from frost,” adds Dan. “You may get away with just horticultural fleece, but something more substantial might be required if you expect snow. “The soil will need to be warm for seeds to germinate, but the plants themselves can normally survive during winter. “My favourite thing is to sow carrots between 12-20 weeks before Christmas, then on Christmas day, like an excited child running downstairs to open their presents, I run into the garden and pull up my carrots to prepare for Christmas dinner. “Plant out 4-10 weeks before the last frost of spring for harvests throughout the summer and autumn.” Where To Grow Them Grow your carrots in a spot with well-tilled soil, full sun exposure, shelter from wind, and with a south- or west-facing aspect. Make sure the soil is loamy (a small amount of sand is tolerable, but avoid chalk or clay). How To Plant Carrots Simply sow seeds into the soil you’ve just tilled. There’s no need to start carrots off indoors, and this disruption to their roots can actually hinder their growth. Use a dibber to make holes about 1-2cm deep and 5-8cm apart, then place a carrot seed in each and cover back over. Grow carrots in rows, with about 30cm between rows. This spacing will give each carrot space to thrive – remember that while this may seem like excess space for the slim carrots you’re familiar with in the supermarket, the ones you grow will likely be much less consistent in shape and size. Leaving enough space lets carrots grow into whatever shape they desire. Home-grown carrots don’t conform to artificial supermarket norms Propagation Lots of kids will tell you that if you cut the top bit off a carrot and place it in shallow water, the shoots on top will grow. Many parents have used a tupperware box with a carrot top in water vainly trying to grow into a new plant as a mini science project to demonstrate the principles of propagation to their children. In terms of propagating carrots at home, however, this is as close as most people get. Because adult carrots don’t produce easily-gettable seeds, the most viable option for growing carrots next season is simply to buy another packet of seeds. References 1. Praciak, A. (2015). Daucus carota (carrot). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.18018 2. Family Album: Carrot. (n.d.). Wild Flower Finder. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://wildflowerfinder.org.uk/Menu2/Family/FamilyInfo/Info_Apiaceae.htm 3. Origin and meaning of carrot. (n.d.). Etymonline. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.etymonline.com/word/carrot 4. Daucus carota “Flyaway.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/139299/daucus-carota-flyaway/details
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Ceanothus ‘California Lilac’ Growing Guide: This Plant Is An Absolute Bee Magnet!
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Ceanothus? How To Grow Ceanothus Ceanothus Care Common Problems References Break down the Greek word that gave rise to the name of this plant, and you’ll find it translates to “spiny plant” – a label that sidesteps the truly defining characteristics of the flower: big panicles of colourful florets, which bring bold bursts of beauty to any garden. If you’re looking for an attractive and versatile plant, then look no further. “The glossy leaves and the hum of bees on pale blue flowers are the main highlights of Ceanothus for me,” says Horticulture Technician Peter Lickorish. Varieties of ceanothus flower in spring, summer, and autumn. It has glossy leaves, with flowers in a range of calming colours – and is suited to hedges, ground cover, or even as a source of scent in your garden. Overview Botanical Name Ceanothus Common Name(s) Californian Lilac; Soap Bush; Buckbrush Plant Type Shrub Native Area United States Hardiness Rating H4 (for most species) Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small blue, white or pink flowers in terminal clusters When To Plant March, April, May Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September, October As we said earlier, the name translates simply as “spiny plant” in Greek.1 You’ll also see common names used, including ‘Soap Bush’, ‘California Lilac’ (alluding to the west coast of America, where this plant is most diverse) and ‘Buckbrush’.2 The genus contains about 55 species of plant, ranging in size from shrubs to small trees.3 Originally hailing from North America, from coastal areas to mountaintops, ceanothus has become a popular candidate for British gardens thanks to its versatility and beauty.4 Why Grow Ceanothus? This genus of plants includes a spectrum of cool and pastel colours, and offers enough variety in preferred growing conditions that most gardeners will be able to find at least something compatible with their outdoor space. What’s more, the majority of Ceanothus are rated as having hardiness of H4, meaning they can thrive in temperatures down to -5°C – making them great for most of the UK. I actually have a Ceanothus at the bottom of my garden that has been there since we moved in (see the picture above). During its main flowering season in late spring and early summer I have never seen so many bees on one plant – the tree itself seems alive with a constant ‘buzz’ from the sheer number of different types of bees harvesting pollen from its fuzzy blue blooms. It makes me really happy to know that this one plant is providing so much to the local ecosystem – especially our pollinators. Not only that but we also get a second flowering in late autumn which, while not quite so prolific, provides a welcome burst of late colour in the garden. How To Grow Ceanothus The growing and care tips given below are indicative of some plants in the genus, but not all of them. With so many varieties available, we recommend checking the specific requirements of each and every ceanothus you decide to grow. Where To Grow Hailing from the West coast of America, this plant can tolerate a lot of sunlight. For best growth, plant somewhere with full sun exposure, and with a little shelter against the harsher winds and frosts they’ll experience in the UK. C. thyrsiflorus ‘Millerton Point’ Somewhere facing west or south should do the trick. In terms of soil, the general rule is most but well-drained, with neutral or alkaline pH level. Some varieties can tolerate acidity, but as mentioned, double-check the specific varieties you’re planning to grow to avoid disappointment. Planting Best planted in spring to avoid frost damage while it establishes, or if you have particularly well-draining soil, you can plant in autumn. Digging in leaf mould or well-rotted manure aids with drainage on heavy soils, and increases the chance of your Ceanothus taking. Ceanothus Care Fertilising Ceanothus rarely require feeding, but can benefit if you decide to do it. Sprinkle balanced fertiliser around the base, leaving a ring of around 3-5cm from the plant. This helps to avoid rotting, which can occur if you fertilise too close to the plant. Watering You’ll want to water your ceanothus fairly frequently during dry weather until the roots are established, which can take a few years. When your ceanothus is established, it won’t need much watering unless you’re experiencing drought conditions. Training Certain varieties of this plant are well-suited to training up walls and other vertical surfaces, such as Ceanothus azureus. Use twine to gently tie new shoots onto supporting structures, like trellises or chicken wire. This should encourage vertical growth without causing damage to the plant. Common Problems I find that my Ceanothus is generally free from pests and diseases, making it a forgiving choice for gardeners who don’t have lots of time to spend monitoring the health of their plants. There are a couple of things to keep an eye on, however. Exposure Damage As alluded to, this plant’s West Coast origins mean it may not cope so well with some of the harsher conditions the UK throws at it. If you’re not able to find a sheltered location for your ceanothus, try to control against damage from wind and frost. Wind scorch is caused by cold winds pulling moisture from plants and soil, putting them in a position where they struggle to replace the water quickly enough. As a result, leaf edges – or entire leaves in particularly bad cases – may turn brown. If your ceanothus is growing in an exposed position and strong winds are forecast, do your best to erect a windbreak – either manmade or in the form of another plant. I am lucky in that my Ceanothus is growing at the end of our garden where it is very well protected from the wind by the surrounding fencing and houses. The area around its base is also mulched extensively to protect the roots of the plant. Though ceanothus is hardy, it will struggle in some UK temperatures. If you live in a particularly exposed area, using horticultural fleece to cover the plant, as well as mulch, or some other insulating medium around the root of the plant can protect against frosty spells, and pruning damaged sections can control the damage caused. Scale Insects These pests like to make their home on ceanothus leaves and stems, feasting on the sap contained within. You’ll see bumpy ridges on leaf undersides, and possibly black fungus atop the leaves that grows on the insects’ excretions. At first you can remove the insects by hand, although this won’t work against higher numbers. You can encourage predators such as ladybirds to visit your garden to eat the insects or, failing that, a range of pesticides are available to curb more persistent visitors. This colourful and striking plant, with its bundles of brightly coloured flowers vying for attention and providing beautiful backdrops for medleys of other flowers, makes a fine addition to any garden. We’re sure you’ll enjoy incorporating them into yours! References 1. Ceanothus, Versatile California Native. (n.d.). ANR Blogs. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=49058 2. Ceanothus. (n.d.). California Native Plant Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://calscape.org/loc-california/Ceanothus(all)/np-1/vw-list?view_style=list 3. Ceanothus. (n.d.-b). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/ceanothus 4. Ceanothus thyrsiflorus. (n.d.). The University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=CETH
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How To Grow Chinese Lanterns: Ideal For Containers And Great For New Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Them? How To Grow Chinese Lanterns Plant Care Common Problems References Physalis alkekengi, or ‘Chinese Lantern’, is a plant in the nightshade family well-known for its resplendent red fruit husks that give way to intricate and delicate skeletal casings as the season progresses.1 If you’ve not seen this transition take place, you’re in for a treat – it’s one of the most beautiful and unsung floral processes you can see in the UK. For a British gardener looking for a plant to bring the air of the Orient, you can’t do much better than this wonder. What’s more, the plant is hardy enough to do well in UK growing conditions, making it a popular and rewarding choice. Overview Botanical Name Physalis alkekengi Common Name(s) Chinese Lanterns Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Southern Europe, South & North-East Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Fleshy berries with colourful lantern-like calyxes When To Sow February, March, April Flowering Months July, August, September, October When To Prune September, October Although there are many colloquial names for P. alkekengi – including ‘Devils’ Berry’, ‘Winter Cherry’, ‘Strawberry-and-Tomato’, and more – ‘Chinese Lantern’ is the most common. The name has stuck because it perfectly describes the dainty, paper-thin casings that surround the plant’s fruit. It’s not hard to imagine replacing the fruit with a tiny light bulb, and seeing a string of these fruity fairy lights in the backdrop of a painting or photograph of a Chinese streetscape. Because of its striking appearance, the Chinese lantern is popular worldwide as an ornamental plant. Why Grow Them? If you’re looking for something attractive and captivating for your garden, you’ll likely not need any other reasons to choose a Chinese Lantern. This plant boasts many properties that make it an attractive prospect for any gardener, however. Firstly, it’s a perennial, meaning that its delightful fruits will return year after year. They’re also very hardy, being able to survive even the most punishing of weather conditions, including temperatures below -20°C. In terms of visual interest, Chinese lanterns have a lot to offer. Their season begins with white flowers – attractive but not massively noteworthy – that begin to bud around July. Through summer and autumn, these flourish into the fruit husks we’ve seen above, which start green and develop into a deep, enticing orange as they ripen. Then, if left alone, the plant material will die away, leaving the skeletal casing. This, in my opinion, is reason enough to grow the plant. The transition really is beautiful, and it’s hard to capture the nuance with words. The best way is to grow a Chinese lantern of your own and watch in real-time (preferably with a camera at the ready!). How To Grow Chinese Lanterns In the UK, it’s possible to grow Chinese lanterns from seeds or from cuttings. Growing From Seed When growing from seed, you’ll want to plant out early to give the best chance of surviving wintry conditions. The best way to do this is to grow in a small pot initially, with mixed, moist compost. Add a couple of seeds to the top layer, and then cover with a very thin layer of compost. Leave them in a well-lit position but not in direct sunlight, at room temperature. After about two weeks you should see shoots poking through. Then, move to full sunlight. At this stage the plants can handle lower temperatures, although avoid frost at all costs until they are fully established. Growing From Cuttings To grow from cuttings, look below the soil surrounding a section with healthy growth. Underground, there’ll be a runner with thin roots growing from it: snip a section of this about 3cm in length, then plant in a container. The container should be of similar depth to the area you removed the cutting from. Container Growing Most gardeners recommend growing Chinese lanterns in containers rather than directly into garden soil, because their roots are very enthusiastic and the plant can quickly turn invasive, competing with other plants in your garden for resources and stifling growth. After initially being planted into small pots, Chinese Lanterns can be moved to larger pots when they are established. Choosing a pot that complements the aesthetic of the adult Chinese Lantern plant is a reliable way to provide real visual interest in your garden. Plant Care Feeding These plants are hungry fellas when they’re getting established! A monthly portion of fertiliser like blood, fish, and bone will give them the right balance of nutrients they need to ensure healthy adult growth. Watering Make sure you water your Chinese lanterns regularly, especially if you take the advice to grow them in containers (note: we recommend this!). This plant thrives best in moist but well-drained soil. Make sure your containers have drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to drip out, as moisture retention can lead to root rot. Pruning Grown in a container, there’s little need to prune a Chinese lantern plant. If you grow in the ground, however, you might have a bit of a battle on your hands keeping the plant in check! You can gently cut the lanterns from the plant before they transition to the skeletal form, if you want to preserve them. To do this, simply cut the stem with scissors at the stage you want to preserve: green, yellow, or orange. The deepest orange will occur in late September. Common Problems There are a few pests to keep an eye out for when growing a Chinese lantern. Here’s what to look for, and how to treat them: Caterpillars These busybodies like to take residence on particularly tasty plants, munching holes in the leaves and causing damage to the plant in general. The best course of action to control against caterpillars is to simply remove any you see, along with the small yellow or white eggs they’ll eventually hatch from. Surrounding your plant with netting or some other material that caterpillars can’t breach is also an option, although obviously this interferes with the visual appeal of the plant. A range of insecticides are available to keep more persistent caterpillars at bay, ranging from organic pesticides to products containing more hardcore chemicals. We always advise starting with the more humane options, like removing the bugs by hand, before moving onto chemical control. Slugs & Snails If you’ve grown anything, anywhere, ever, chances are that you’ve encountered the endless hunger of slugs and snails. These guys live for the opportunity to invade your garden and eat the fruits of your labour – quite literally! And sadly, Chinese lanterns are not immune to their visitations. Growing in a container offers some control, as slugs and snails may struggle to climb up to the plant. However, don’t be surprised if particularly intrepid specimens find their way into eating range. Thankfully, there are many options available when dealing with them. This plant is confident enough to dazzle by itself in a container, or as part of a display of other plants in and around your garden. Pair the visual interest with forgiving growth requirements, and the Chinese lantern stands out from the crowd as a real all-rounder, great for established gardeners as well as the newly-green thumbed amongst us. “For a full season of enjoyment, Chinese lantern is a great plant but it is also a relatively easy plant to grow and ideal for containers,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This makes it a great place to start if you’re new to gardening.” Whatever your experience and gardening goals, a Chinese lantern is sure to make a great impression. References 1. Physalis alkekengi. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=b713
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'Snakeshead' Fritillary Growing Advice From The Chairman Of The Fritillaria Group
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Fritillary Types How To Grow Fritillaries Fritillary Plant Care Common Problems References If you’re looking for an attractive plant with an impressive CV, consider fritillaries. Boasting lilting lantern-like flowers, fritillaries are closely related to lilies and have a long history of use in ornamental gardening and horticultural settings. They bring an undeniably exotic feel to any garden, and most varieties allude to oriental shapes and themes. In the course of producing this guide I contacted Dr Robert Wallis, Chairman of The Fritillaria Group. He shared just why these plants are so popular and well-loved in the UK. “The genus Fritillaria contains around 180 different species from many different habitats around the world. “Most grow in Mediterranean climates at varying altitudes, whilst some are semi-desert plants. “Others come from more northerly places and adapt well to life in UK”. Though originally hailing from Europe and Asia, British gardeners have been familiar with fritillaries for several hundred years.1 Looking at the plant, it’s easy to see how they made a good first impression, and how they’ve endured centuries of evolving trends and fashions. Incorporating fritillaries into your garden is a way to bring genuine beauty, while giving a nod to their proud cultural and historical background. Overview Botanical Name Fritillaria species Common Name(s) Crown Imperials, Snake’s Head Plant Type Bulb / Perennial Flower Native Area Europe & Asia Hardiness Rating H4-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Nodding bowl / bell-shaped flowers When To Sow September, October Flowering Months April, May Fritillaria meleagris is considered to be the type species of the Fritillaria genus, which in non-jargon terms means that this is the variety most indicative of the appearance and characteristics of related plants. In the image below, you can see the bowing stem of F. meleagris – also called snake’s head – with its iconic flower resembling a bell or lantern. In most varieties the flowers are solitary, making them all the more visually impressive. The mottling on the petals offers visual interest distinct from other flowers with single-colour petals, and this subtle aspect can be used to great effect when designing flower beds. “The species name F. meleagris matches the scientific name of turkeys and guinea fowls, and there is something akin to their feathers in the plant’s petals,” adds Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Fritillary Types “There are a few species which are easy in the garden”, says Robert. “Others are more exacting in their requirements and present various degrees of challenge to grow successfully”. For those growing Fritillarias for the first time, Robert suggests: “start with the easy (cheap!) ones like F. meleagris and F. imperialis for the garden but be aware that Fritillaria is a large genus and the species have widely differing requirements for successful cultivation”. Below we share a selection particularly well-suited to British gardens – each a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Snake’s Head Fritillary Botanical Name: F. meleagris This species is an easy-to-grow favourite, says Robert: “Fritillaria meleagris is a beautiful and easy species in the garden. Unlike most species, it revels in moist soil, particularly in a meadow situation.” The delicate purple flowers of this variety capture the aesthetic and atmosphere you can expect from other varieties: the colour and petal pattern may change between varieties, but the bowing appearance and gentle confidence remains. This variety enjoys full sun or partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. It isn’t fussy with aspect, exposure, soil type, or soil acidity. Siberian Fritillary Botanical Name: F. pallidiflora This variety boasts creamy flowers, bunched together a bit more tightly than the meleagris, hinting at the varied aesthetics centred on the common fritillary theme. White and pale flowers are an ever-popular feature in flower beds and plant displays, meaning the Siberian plant should be right at home in many contexts. The preferred growing conditions are the same as those for F. meleagris. Crown Imperial Botanical Name: F. imperialis Tussles of orangey flowers hanging below a crown of green leaves almost bring to mind a pineapple, which isn’t something that can be said about many flowers. For this reason, F. imperialis makes a quirky and striking contribution to any outdoor space, especially if you’re riffing on exotic themes. The crown imperial like full sun and well-drained soil, alluding to the different conditions preferred between Fritillaria varieties. Pointed-Petal Fritillary Botanical Name: F. acmopetala The petal frond framing a brownish purple central section almost resembles the shape of a model boasting a 1960s haircut. However you perceive the form and colour of this flower, though, you can’t deny that it makes an attractive addition to any flower arrangement with whites, browns, oranges, or yellow. This variety shares growing preferences with the crown imperial. Other favourites grown by Dr. Robert Wallis include: F. gibbosa – “A semi-desert species from Iran. It has fabulous pink outward-facing flowers. It only needs water from December to March otherwise it is kept dry in the greenhouse.” F. obliqua – “Has lovely black flowers. It hails from cool situations in Greece and enjoys a decidedly Mediterranean moist winter and dry summer. It is still necessary to keep it cool in summer though. How To Grow Fritillaries Preferred growing conditions vary across the different types of fritillaria, so make sure to check the specific requirements of the variety you’re planning to grow. The information in the following sections is given as a general guide. Where To Grow In the varieties introduced above, we saw that some (snake’s head and Siberian) can make do with partial shade or moist soil, while others (crown imperial and pointed-petal) require full sunlight and well-drained soil. For this reason, you’ll need to research the preferences of the varieties you’re planning to plant to ensure that each can thrive. In general, fritillaries are less fussy with soil type and pH than exposure, aspect, moisture levels, and hardiness. On the last point, hardiness ratings in the varieties above range from H4 (suitable to temperatures of around -10°C) to H7 (suitable below -20°C). If you live in particularly cold parts of the UK, double-check that your planned fritillary can handle the expected temperatures. “Each year I really hope to see birds feeding from the nectar of the crown imperial fritillary,” says Peter. “It is well documented that small birds, such as blue tits, will perch on the stems and lift their heads into the flowers, but I’m yet to see it. A good excuse to plant more, I suppose!” Planting You’ll want to plant your tall crown fritillary bulbs about 30cm below the soil surface, in September or October, whereas lower-growing snake’s head bulbs can go in at 5-8cm deep. The general rule when planting bulbs is to plant them with the tip facing up or, if it’s unclear which bit is the tip, plant them on their sides. They’ll struggle to grow if planted tip-down. Fritillary Plant Care Feeding You can feed fritillaries each spring, with a fertiliser that releases nutrients slowly – potash is one option. Avoid using fertilisers high in nitrogen, as this carries the risk of encouraging surrounding grasses to grow, rather than your flowers. Watering Water well after planting your bulbs, as moist soil conditions will encourage healthy growth. Fritillaries don’t need too much watering when in bloom – just be vigilant during especially dry periods. Pruning You don’t need to prune any variety of fritillaries – hallelujah! We told you they were easy to grow. Propagating Your plants will produce ‘offsets’ each year, which are baby bulbs. You can dig these up by carefully separating them from the parent bulb. Either plant the offset elsewhere, leaving enough space between plants to avoid overcrowding, or give them to a friend to spread the fritillary love. Common Problems This flower isn’t prone to any nasty plant diseases, which is another tick in the ‘easy to grow’ box. Aside from a few sneaky pests who may try to feast on their alluring petals and stems, fritillaries most likely won’t encounter many problems. Slugs & Snails It feels like we write a slugs and snails section in almost every plant care & growing guide we publish. These guys are relentless, and their quest to feast on your lovingly-tended flowers is unceasing. But thankfully, there are a few ways to keep them at bay. Lily Beetles Fritillaries are also prone to lily beetles, because of their similarity to the flower. These pests lay their eggs on leaf undersides, which then hatch, releasing lots of hungry larvae to feast upon leaves, leaving a trail of unsightly excrement in their wake. “Both the adult and larvae of the striking red Lily Beetle likes to eat fritillary leaves” says Robert. “They are best captured and squashed.” The first step is to remove beetles and their eggs by hand, before they hatch and begin to wreak havoc. You can also encourage predatorial wildlife to visit your garden, which will eat the beetles and keep their populations in check. “Lily beetle will even eat the flowers, so try to manage this pest,” says Peter. “I find cupping a hand underneath the stem and knocking them into it stops them from pulling off their favourite trick of dropping onto soil and lying upside down. “If they do this, they become almost invisible.” These unfussy and attractive plants are a pleasure to grow, and will delight anyone who steps foot in your garden. References 1. Fritillaria meleagris. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:535213-1
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Thalictrum 'Meadow Rue': This Alluring Flower Will Bring Energy And Colour To Any Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Thalictrum Varieties How To Grow Thalictrum Thalictrum Plant Care Overwintering Propagation Companion Planting References With its tall height, impressive blooms and tolerance of little to no maintenance, thalictrum is a dream addition to any garden. More commonly known as ‘Meadow Rue’ (or, in some parts of the United States, ‘Feathered Columbine’), thalictrum is a beautiful meadow flower which will bring scale, energy and colour to any garden. With some species and cultivars capable of exceeding 2m in height, it’s a plant that will tower over other species, providing a pleasing contrast to smaller shrubs and ferns. Overview Botanical Name Thalictrum Common Name(s) Meadow Rue, Feathered Columbine Plant Type Perennial Native Area Europe, Temperate Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Panicles or racemes of small flowers with showy stamens When To Sow March, April Flowering Months May, June, July, August Deadheading Months May When To Prune June, July, August, September There’s something about the way that its delicate clumps of flowerheads catch the wind, swaying atop their slender stems, that eases the heart and soul. Even better, this picturesque flower won’t typically demand the attention that might be expected of such a visual crowd-pleaser. In fact, thalictrum is one of the hardiest and therefore easiest plants it is possible to grow; it isn’t too fussy about its exact planting conditions; it doesn’t require a whole lot in the way of maintenance throughout its lifespan, either. Thalictrum Varieties When most people hear the word Thalictrum, they probably think of the willowy perennials found in woodlands and meadows across the UK. While the taller variety of the plant is probably the most famous, there are actually more than 210 thalictrum species across the globe.1 These can vary hugely in appearance and nature, from dwarf strains which straddle the ground to the towering airy specimens famous at home. “I really like is Thalictrum ‘Splendide White’ – it is absolutely fabulous,” shares Garden Designer Lachlan Rae. “The reason I like it is because it has very neat rosettes on its foliage and a beautiful flower. It can be easily concealed in a border and is fantastic to use in a successional planting scheme.” For those searching for more specific inspiration, here are a handful of our favourite thalictrum varieties: T. aquilegiifolium The cultivars ‘Thundercloud’ or ‘Purple Cloud’ are popular varieties of this ubiquitous plant. They can exceed 1m in height and its tall, spindly stems are topped off with lavender blooms accentuated by deep purple stamens. It makes for a truly beautiful cut flower. T. aquilegiifolium var. album A close relative of the ‘Thundercloud’ cultivar mentioned above, T. aquilegiifolium var. album is even taller than its cousin, growing up to 1.4m in total. But while the ‘Thundercloud’ features tight clusters of pink and purple flowers, this strain is more notable for its fluffy white blooms which reach outwards and upwards with very thin petals. T. delavayi Another of the most popular strains of thalictrum, T. delavayi is capable of growing up to 1m in height and produces cloudy blossoms of lilac and white flowers beginning in midsummer and blooming right through until early autumn. It’s an ideal option for herbaceous borders and also makes a very pretty cut flower in its own right. T. filamentosum A slightly smaller variety of thalictrum, T. filamentosum grows up to around 60cm and features delicate sprays of tiny white flowers. That bright colour provides a very pleasing contrast to the backdrop of green foliage flecked with red in the stems. It doesn’t bring a whole lot in the way of biodiversity to your garden – but it will brighten the palette of your borders. T. tuberosum Native to the Pyrenees mountains, T. tuberosum is an alpine variety of thalictrum that’s quite unlike most of its family members. That’s partly down to the fact that it’s happiest when exposed to direct sunlight, partly because of its bulbous cream flowers and partly due to its smaller size – at just 40cm, it is positively diminutive in comparison to most thalictrum species. T. minus ‘Adiantifolium’ Another dwarf species, T. minus ‘Adiantifolium’ is capable of growing up to a maximum of 60cm in height. At its lower levels, the foliage is reminiscent of ferns, while higher up the tall stems give way to teensy yellow and brown flowers. A late bloomer, this species won’t begin to show off its charming colours until July and August, making it a great combination option to keep your display alive later in the year. How To Grow Thalictrum Whichever species of thalictrum you decide to plump for – or whether you prefer to mix and match varieties to create a multi-level and multi-layered spectrum of colour in your garden, it’s reassuring to know that this plant invariably performs well in almost all conditions. Where To Grow The height of many species means that it might be advisable to plant against a wall or fence, but they make great additions to any border. They’ll perform well in full sun or partial shade and will tolerate most soil types, though they prefer fertile, slightly acidic and well-drained land to bring best results. Sowing & Planting If replanting a thalictrum species from a pot, dig a large hole to give plenty of room for the roots to manoeuvre, then add some top-quality compost and fill in the excess with soil. Water plentifully, especially at the outset, to ensure that the thalictrum takes to its new home without any issues. As for when to plant thalictrum, that depends on whether you are using seeds or divided plants. If the former, plant the seeds in the autumn at a depth of at least 3mm and ensure the soil remains moist throughout the colder months. Germination can be unpredictable and takes anywhere between two weeks and two years to occur. If planting from divided plants, space the specimens at a remove of 15cm (for dwarf varieties) and 90cm (for tall varieties) from one another and plant them in the spring. Thalictrum Plant Care One of the most attractive aspects of thalictrum – other than their eye-catching blooms in spring, summer and autumn – is the fact that they require very little in the way of upkeep. Soil & Mulching It’s a good idea to mulch the soil and even perhaps lightly fertilise it when spring rolls around, but neither action is absolutely imperative. The only real necessity is ensuring that the soil does not dry out completely after a long spell of arid weather. T. aquilegiifolium ‘Thundercloud’ Fortunately, thalictrum is not susceptible to many diseases or pests, meaning it shouldn’t require too much attention for the entirety of its lifespan. Staking You may wish to pare back the stems after flowering, although there is value in leaving the blooms to wither in autumn and early winter due to the attractiveness of the seed heads even as they are dying off. Due to the height of many thalictrum varieties, staking their stems is a popular method of providing support to the top-heavy flower blooms. While this can be very effective and actually essential in some cases, one of the most striking things about thalictrum is the almost performative way in which the flowers dance and float upon the breeze. Staking them might provide support, but can also restrict this aesthetically pleasing movement. One alternative is to plant complementary and contrasting shrubs and plants in its vicinity, such as Delphinium, which can provide support for its growth without encroaching on its mobility. “I grow Thalictrum tight to other mid-height perennials and shrubs, allowing these neighbours to support its flower stems,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This allows the feathery flowers to mingle amongst other perennials naturally rather than tying in or other supports which make the flower stems look a little stiff.” Another method of avoiding the worst effects of a blustery wind is to plant the thalictrum in an area not exposed to strong gusts, such as against a wall or fence. This, too, can provide support without inhibiting movement as much as staking might. Overwintering Though the exact flowering times of thalictrum will vary depending on the specific strain you opt for, they generally bloom from early to mid-July. They should continue to produce impressive displays throughout summer and, even when they begin to die away in autumn, the seed heads can still look impressive for months after the blossoms have long since withered away. As the plant dies off, the foliage will turn from the bright green which gives the plant its Latin name (a literal translation is “grow green”) to a faded ochre colour. This can create an eye-catching contrast with the plants around it, meaning you may want to allow the plant to die back completely before involving yourself. Autumn Thalictrum Its tendency to change colour in the colder months makes it one of those herbaceous varieties which still produce impressive results even after they have exited the blooming stage. Once the thermometer drops below zero and frosts begins to set in, the foliage will collapse altogether – now is the time to act. You may pare it back down the base in order to encourage new growth in the following spring. As a perennial, thalictrum doesn’t require much more maintenance than this and can, in fact, be left to its own devices for much of the year without more input required. Propagation A self-seeding perennial, thalictrum will naturally grow back the following year with little to no input from your side. Fortunately, it doesn’t propagate naturally to the extent that it becomes invasive, but it can on occasion branch out into areas that you may have designated for other flora. As such, it’s a good idea to perform regular checks on its development to ensure that it doesn’t spill over into neighbouring parts of the garden. By Division As mentioned above, it is possible to divide clumps of thalictrum in order to reduce its growth in one area or to replant it elsewhere and propagate it around your garden. However, it’s unlikely you’ll ever need to divide thalictrum for the former reason, since it can be trusted to play well with others for many years at a time and does not require constant maintenance, like some other perennials. When tackling the division and propagation of thalictrum clumps, it’s best to do so in the spring, when the new offshoots have the best chance of taking root. When selecting a clump to divide, choose one which is already well-established and shows impressive growth, then dig up its roots entirely and use a spade to split it in half. Then simply plant the two halves in the desired location(s), ensuring they receive plenty of water in the first few weeks to maximise their chance of survival. Companion Planting When pairing thalictrum with other types of greenery in your garden, there are two important aspects to consider: height and colour. Most thalictrum varieties are on the tall side, so partnering them with shorter and squatter shrubs and ferns is an excellent idea. Not only will the differing height ranges create a tiered effect that is pleasant on the eye, but the smaller plants will also provide support and stability to the peaks of the thalictrum as it towers above them. The palette of your pastoral scene is the other main element you’ll want to keep in mind. Most thalictrum flowers range from white to purple via pink, lilac and lavender, which means they look stunning enough set against a sea of green leaves. If that sounds sufficient to you, consider planting thalictrum in amongst a variety of grasses and ferns. On the other hand, you might wish to combine them with other brightly coloured bouquets to create a rainbow of flowers in your borders and beds; phlomis, alliums, iris, delphinium, clematis and primrose are all excellent options here. Indeed, another of thalictrum’s main strengths is its versatility, meaning there’s a plentiful array of options that will work well. The choice is yours. References 1. Thalictrum. (n.d.). Kew Plants of the World Online. Retrieved August 19, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001524-2#children
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These Gardeners Have Been Growing Camellias For 75 Years - Here Are Their Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Camellia References An elegantly ornamental plant with great cultural significance in the Far East, the Camellia used to be a firm favourite of the European High Society in the mid-Nineteenth Century.1 Then the American South made the Camellia its own. Camellias are – of course – highly valued in their native lands of East Asia and South-East Asia where they are not only popular but are an element of the cultures of the nations.2 In our Camellia guides, we feature: Patricia Short – UK Membership Representative of the International Camellia Society. Lorraine Summers – Owner of Trehane Camellia and Blueberry Nursery. “By carefully selecting camellia varieties, you could have a garden full of blooms from October to May, when their colour can provide some much-needed happiness and pollinators can use them in abundance”. “Additionally,” says Patricia: “camellias can be left to grow into trees – nice specimens for a garden – or pruned to suit one’s needs. “One doesn’t have to fuss over camellias.” Overview Botanical Name Camellia Plant Type Shrub Native Area East / South Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Solitary or clustered flowers Flowering Months January, February, March, April, May, October, November, December In general, Camellia plants are evergreen shrubs, mostly of upright habit though a goodly number are rounded or spreading. Their heights typically range from 2-5m though old, well-cared-for plants are much taller. The simple leaves are usually thick, glossy and of a deep green colour. Many, though not all, Camellia varieties present very well as both the plant and the flower have a neat, manicured, and symmetrical appearance, especially the varieties of upright habit and flowers of Formal Double form. Jeju Island, South Korea The flowers are large and showy and single-form flowers have prominent yellow stamens. Many cultivars, including the most-prized ones, have semi-double or double corollas. The double forms are divided into a further three sub-forms but the ‘real’ double form is ‘Formal Double’. C. japonica ‘Nuccio’s Gem’ Formal double-form flowers do not display stamens. Their colours include white, off-white, and various shades of pink, rose, red, and fuchsia. Some varieties are double-coloured, these coming in striped, variegated and dappled styles. When other plants are dormant or dead, Camellia comes into its own and blooms. A smartly-chosen mix of Camellia varieties will reward you with colourful flowers from at least October through March. Habitat & Growing Conditions In the wild, both C. japonica and C. sasanqua are found at elevations of up to 1,000m in the wooded and forested regions of China, South Korea, and the south of Japan. They grow in acidic soils. In Japan, C. japonica is adapted to freezing temperatures and snow. They rejuvenate and flower after the passage of winter. Aspect Camellia species do not favour full sun though most species will grow and even thrive in full shade. Their preference is for part-sun, part-shade exposure where they are sheltered from the mid-day and afternoon sun. Indeed, they are accustomed to this type of shelter in their native woody and forested habitats where they are also shielded from strong, cold winds. Hardiness The vast majority of Camellias are H5 hardy in the United Kingdom – meaning they are able to survive in all but the coldest areas of the British Isles. Camellia cultivars that are hardy in sub-freezing temperatures are identified by the word ‘Winter’ in their names. Planting Camellia Camellias may be planted in pots but at some point these long-lived plants will need to be transplanted to larger containers or into the ground. Where To Plant Whilst care should be taken to stake young camellias and to limit exposure to cold easterly winds, mature camellias can withstand windy conditions,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “When camellias first arrived in the UK, they were considered glasshouse plants, but we are slowly realising that they are far hardier and tougher than first thought.” They are best grown in a location of partial shade where they are shielded from the afternoon’s hot sunshine though they will happily thrive in shadier locations too. Seedlings and growing plants need such sheltering even more than mature plants. Plants should also be protected from stiff, cold winds. In view of their preferences, Camellias should be planted under the shade of larger plants or trees or close by some structure or a wall. Optimally these plants should be shielded from the southern sun in the summer and from north winds in winter. When To Plant The ideal time to grow Camellia is in spring for a ‘triple play’. The flowering season is over, the cold winter has departed, and new plants can get established before the return of winter. References 1. Europe. (n.d.). International Camellia Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://internationalcamellia.org/en-us/our-organisation/europe 2. Camellia japonica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:828524-1
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These Are The Ideal Growing Conditions For Growing Erysimum 'Wallflowers'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Wallflowers Planting Erysimum Care Common Problems References Erysimum is one of the most underrated of all flowering plants. Commonly known as the ‘Wallflower,’ this delightful plant has everything going for it. It is fairly disease-free, is low-maintenance, and is as at home by itself in a pot on a patio as it is with a motley crowd in a large bed. As for those vibrant blooms, they’re no ‘wallflowers’; they’re dazzling knockouts! Erysimum is quite a varied genus comprising of annual, biennial, and perennial plants. As herbs and sub-shrubs, they are dainty little things individually but make for a lush carpet collectively. They make excellent bedding choices but are also genuinely ornamental flowering plants in their own right. Many species flower abundantly from early spring to late summer, and some even dazzle with autumn blossoms. The small four-petalled flowers usually occur as racemes – their colours include white, cream, yellow, orange, red, and purple, many of which are of a vibrant hue. Besides being colourful, the blooms are also sweet-scented and are attractive to bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Their foliage too is pleasing to the eye, being in the main of a chalky green colour with a bluish tinge. The daintiness of the stiff, narrow, lance-shaped leaves makes for a fine match to the flowers, and complement them wonderfully well. Erysimum sub-shrubs are sometimes grown as upright plants by themselves while herbaceous Erysimum varieties – besides the sub-shrubs – are grown in beds, and often occur in their native habitats in clumps and gently swaying mounds. Overview Botanical Name Erysimum Common Name(s) Wallflowers Plant Type Perennial / Annual / Biennial Flower Native Area South Asia, Europe, Africa, Micronesia, North America – through Costa Rica Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Fragrant four-petalled flowers When To Sow February, March Flowering Months March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October, November Wallflowers are members of the mustard family, Brassicaceae.1 Similar to mustard and rapeseed plants, they manufacture phytochemicals that repel insects which would otherwise feed upon the flowers.2 The Wallflower has a pleasant (or unpleasant, depending on your point of view) proclivity to take root in the interstices of bricks and stones of a wall, hence its colloquial and common name, ‘Wallflower’. In a very literal sense this flower grows from and on walls. E. cheiri Wallflowers It is a not-uncommon site on the stone ramparts of old castles and brick walls in the British Isles. Habitat & Growing Conditions Erysimum species occur very widely nearly throughout Europe, Asia, and North America. Their range is so extensive that it would be easier to mention the regions to which they are not native or introduced. Most species are best suited to soils that are dry and very well drained with pH ranging from neutral to mildly alkaline. Most prefer full sun but can make do in partial shade. Hardiness In the main their hardiness falls between RHS Zones H4 – H6. However, a few species native to Northern climes are hardy to H6 – H7. Erysimum is either annual (flowering in summer for one season), biennial (planted in autumn and flowering the following spring) or perennial (lasting for several years). How To Grow Wallflowers Depending on the particular species or cultivar, Wallflowers can be grown virtually year-round but mid-Spring and late-Autumn are the best times to grow from seed. Planting In the United Kingdom, Erysimum should be planted where it can get full sun or sun with partial shade. In general it is best placed in loose chalky and sandy soils that are not overly rich nor moist – soil must have very good drainage. E. cheiri You can’t go wrong with slightly alkaline soil. In general, a good mix of different Erysimum species will provide a fantastic splash of brilliant colour in spring and summer. Wallflowers are among the best put-anywhere plants. Choose from the varieties listed above for beds, borders, and even accents in rock gardens. They are perfect for flower pots on parapets and hanging baskets on balconies. Many varieties self-seed, so once grown, you can just let these plants renew themselves in your garden. “One of the best wallflowers for the garden is E. ‘Bowles’s Mauve’, a perennial cultivar that will flower for most of the year,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I use this plant a lot in planting designs both for its quick establishment and its value as a flower for pollinators, particularly early in the year.” Erysimum Care One of the many great attributes of Erysimum is that it is a low-maintenance plant that makes do with what little it gets. Though this does not mean that it should be neglected, this happy plant is ideally suited for busy lifestyles that leave little time for gardening. Erysimum plants really do not need fertiliser – within the Plant World these diminutive things are real troopers! A small amount of slow-release 10-10-10 fertiliser can certainly be given to them as a special treat. It should be kept in mind that what is written in this section and the following ones does not and cannot apply to Erysimum as a genus – it has over 200 species that are native to very different geographic locations. The advice and recommendations given here apply only to the species, hybrids and cultivars commonly found or grown in the United Kingdom. Common Problems The most common problem Wallflowers face are slugs and snails. Slugs are nocturnal so you may have a slug problem without being aware that the damage being caused to your plants is from slugs. A variety of slug-control methods have been devised, from beer traps and diatomaceous earth to microscopic nematodes. The other main worry is downy mildew, which is tough to combat. Promptly remove all affected parts and ensure that the plant is not crowded in by other plants and has plenty of sun and air. References 1. The genus Erysimum (Brassicaceae) in Bulgaria. (n.d.). JSTOR. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.jstor.org/stable/41767349 2. Züst, T., Strickler, S. R., Powell, A., Mabry, M. E., An, H., Mirzaei, M., York, T. M., Holland, C. K., Kumar, P., Erb, M., Petschenka, G., Gómez, J. M., Perfectti, F., Müller, C., Pires, J. C., Mueller, L. A., & Jander, G. (2020). Independent evolution of ancestral and novel defenses in a genus of toxic plants (Erysimum, Brassicaceae). ELife, 9. https://doi.org/10.7554/elife.51712
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Tayberries Are A Fruit You Don't See Very Often - Here's How You Can Grow Your Own
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Them? How To Grow Tayberries Harvesting Propagating Common Problems References Ask someone to name their favourite berries, and it’s unlikely tayberry will make the list. Instead they’ll probably say strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, or blackberry. This is where you can blow their mind by telling them about the tayberry: a patented cross between a blackberry and a red raspberry, the handiwork of one Derek L Jennings, who spent five years of his life striving to – and eventually succeeding in – creating a hybrid of the two popular berries.1 Pop a tayberry in your mouth and you get the juicy aromatic sweetness of both, in a package closer in size to a large raspberry. For the uninitiated (which is most people), their first tayberry is often a revelatory experience. And this guide will teach you how to grow your own, so you can provide that revelation. Overview Botanical Name Rubus fruticosus x idaeus Common Name(s) Tayberry Plant Plant Type Fruit / Perennial Native Area Scottish Cultivar Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Flowers followed by berries When To Sow January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months June Harvesting Months July When To Prune August, September It’s a testament to Jennings’ work and the assistance he received from the Scottish Horticultural Research Institute that the tayberry can now grow and propagate naturally in the wild.2 The berry is suitable for use in cooking as well as eating raw, and although it’s not as common as either of its genetic parents, it can be found in many places around the UK. By following the steps in this guide, you can add your garden – and maybe the gardens of your friends and family – to that list of places. Why Grow Them? Growing berry bushes in your garden is a good way to keep a steady stream of their delicious fruit flowing into your home. Although the bushes themselves aren’t as pretty or ornamental as some other flowers and shrubs, they do provide a nice rugged aesthetic that can work well. Because many people won’t have heard of tayberry, growing a bush in your garden is a good point of interest. Depending on your reasons for gardening, having a plant that’s a guaranteed conversation starter could be reason enough in itself. How To Grow Tayberries First you need to decide which variety to grow. Some, like ‘Buckingham’, don’t have thorns, which makes them a lot more manageable when handling the stems (while pruning or harvesting, for example). Also consider how much fruit each variety is prone to put out: ‘Medana’ is known for giving a bountiful harvest. Where To Grow Tayberries aren’t fussy, but certain conditions will encourage fuller growth than others. If you’re aiming for as much fruit as possible (and why wouldn’t you be!), try to find somewhere in your garden that gets a lot of sunlight, and where the soil can drain adequately. Planting Tayberry Tayberry, like other berry bushes, isn’t grown from seed. Rather, you either buy a small, established plant and transplant it into your garden, or you acquire a cutting and grow that. Once you’ve got your plant, simply dig a hole big enough for it to fit into, and pop it in. Water the topsoil gently to give the plant moisture, then keep a careful eye on it to ensure growth. Support Tayberries do well if they’ve got a wall to lean on or some wires to support their vertical growth. A full-size tayberry plant can weigh a lot, and helping them to counteract gravity a little bit can lead to fuller, stronger growth, and more fruit. “Timber supports with lateral wires at regular intervals (0.5m, 1m and 1.5m high, for example) provide a good framework for tying in tayberry canes,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “In full leaf, they can be quite beefy, so use sturdy timber uprights to support your wires.” Fertilising Fertilising a newly-planted tayberry with general fertiliser will help it to get the nutrients it needs to grow big and strong. After that, one round of fertiliser each spring should help the plant to maintain a healthy balance of nutrients. For subsequent feeds, you can use compost or mulched leaves. Watering Water your tayberry more than usual during its first year, as this will contribute to its ability to grow to its full potential. After that you can water less, as the plant will most likely get what it needs from rain and moisture in the atmosphere. During drought, give the plant a little extra. Pruning Tayberries fruit on last season’s growth, so you need to separate the current season’s growth from last years. This is usually done by tying new stems (known as canes) in a vertical position as they grow. The previous year’s growth which will fruit in the current year was tied in laterally last year. In autumn, these stems can be removed at ground level and the current season’s stems tied in laterally, leaving room in the centre for next season’s new growth to be tied in.’ Harvesting One of the main reasons to grow a berry bush is to eat the berries that grow on it. And tayberry is no different. In the second or third year after planting you should notice a bountiful harvest of plump berries that range from red through to dark purple as they ripen. Harvesting is as simple as picking the berries, while taking care not to prick your fingers on the thorns if you’ve chosen a thorny variety. The berries will keep for a few days in a dry, cool environment, or you can freeze them pretty much indefinitely. Be aware that freezing will make the berries mushy once they thaw out again, so this is only an option if you’re planning to cook with the berries. We’d be remiss at this point not to advise you to incorporate tayberries into a crumble, whether alone or as part of a medley of autumn fruits (apple, blackberry, rhubarb, and so on). The humble crumble is one of the UK’s favourite desserts, and growing a berry bush in your garden practically demands that you pump them out on a continuous and relentless basis whenever you’re able. Propagating Another way to spread the tayberry love, aside from inundating your nearest and dearest with endless crumble, is to give them cuttings from which they can grow their own tayberry. To propagate, just cut 30cm or so from a mature bush. Then, bury most of it a few inches below the ground into rich, fertile soil. The cutting should begin to put forth roots, and should mature into a standalone bush soon enough. This is a great option for spreading tayberries into other areas of your garden, or to other gardens. To expand a tayberry bush in the same area of your garden, you can bend an existing stem (don’t remove it!), and simply plant the end underground. This should then start to root, extending the mother plant and promoting new growth. Common Problems This berry bush is susceptible to a few pests, most of whom are opportunistic fruit-fanciers. Fruit Flies These pesky critters are the same ones you see floating on the surface of any sweet or alcoholic drink you have the audacity to leave unattended for five seconds or more. They love fruit, and will invade tayberry bushes to get a taste of it. “Try to pick fruit when just ripe to minimise fruit flies,” shares Colin. Raspberry Beetles Sadly these guys haven’t got the memo that tayberries aren’t raspberries, and will try their best to bother your plant. They burrow into berries and can give a distinctly unpleasant surprise if not discovered until you bite into one, so stay vigilant. It’s a rare treat to discover a new fruit, especially one that’s been growing under your nose for forty years. And with blackberries and raspberries being ever-popular members of the British garden harvest, the opportunity to combine them is one that shouldn’t be missed. Growing tayberry in your garden is easy, quick and – if you avoid the thorns – painless. Soon you’ll have a thriving bush putting forth plenty of delicious, juicy berries, with which you can make many tasty treats. References 1. Patents by Inventor Derek L. Jennings. (n.d.-b). Justia Patents Search. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://patents.justia.com/inventor/derek-l-jennings 2. History. (n.d.). The James Hutton Institute. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.hutton.ac.uk/about/history
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Growing Lemon Trees: Choose A Greenhouse Or Conservatory For Regular Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Lemons? How To Grow A Lemon Tree Lemon Tree Care Harvesting Common Problems References If life gives you lemons, you make lemonade – everyone knows that. But what if life hasn’t given you lemons? In this instance, you have to take it upon yourself to grow your own lemons. This way you’ll have a steady supply of the tangy citrus fruit we all love so much – yours to do whatever you want with, lemonade or not. Overview Botanical Name Citrus x limon Common Name(s) Lemon Tree Plant Type Tree Native Area South Asia Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers White or pink-tinged blossom When To Sow Year-Round (move outside in June; bring indoors in September) Flowering Months Year-Round When To Prune February, June, July, August The word ‘lemon’ refers to the familiar yellow fruit, and to the small evergreen tree that gives rise to it. Both are native to India and other parts of South Asia but have since journeyed around the world to be commonplace almost everywhere.1 This tree grows well in the UK despite its warmer origins, and is a popular choice for British gardeners looking to bring an exotic feel into their home or garden. Why Grow Lemons? Admittedly, a lemon tree probably isn’t on the top of your list of characteristically British plants. And that’s OK. Part of the fun of gardening is trying new things, exploring different influences, and creating exciting combinations. “One of my favourite plants would have to be my lemon tree,” says Laura from The 3 Growbags. “It flowers and fruits all year round, the flowers smell gorgeous, as do the crushed leaves, and a freshly picked lemon is just one of life’s perfect things.” A lemon tree framed by some typically British plants like hydrangeas, honeysuckle, or forget-me-not creates an interesting and rewarding aesthetic. And not only that: the fruit you’ll harvest from your lemon tree is almost reason enough to grow one. Lemons are delicious. While very few people can tolerate lemon by itself, the juice, flesh, and zest feature in thousands of recipes from around the globe, including sweet and savoury. Growing a lemon tree guarantees you easy access to the culinary delights offered by this citrus superhero. How To Grow A Lemon Tree Right, let’s get down to the practicalities of growing a lemon tree in your garden. This section will explore the wheres, whens, and hows of lemons. Outdoors Growing This type of tree is more sensitive to cold than other fruit trees, and to other citrus trees. In fact, growing outside in the UK is generally not recommended unless you’re able to ensure that your plant won’t be subjected to frost – a tough ask in most regions! For that reason, most people that grow lemon trees outdoors tend to overwinter them in either a greenhouse or conservatory. Choosing a south-facing aspect best positions the tree to enjoy sunlight and the warmer temperatures that accompany it. Lemon trees aren’t fussy with soil type, but will appreciate a position with good drainage. Mildly acidic soil is best, but it’s not a disaster if you plant your tree in a spot with different pH levels. Indoors Growing With an expected height of around 1.5m, these trees are definitely a viable size to grow indoors. Growing indoors gives you more control over the soil as well, meaning you can provide your lemon tree with the perfect conditions. To recap: that’s moist, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. A temperature range of 13-21°C is optimal. Indoors, it’s easy enough to rig up some specialised growing lamps to supplement the natural light they receive over winter. Pollination If you’re growing outdoors, bees and other pollinators will take on the task of pollinating your lemon tree. Grow indoors, however, and you either need to pollinate yourself (fiddly: not typically recommended!) or move your plant outside for a spell during summer. Pollination is a vital part of the fruiting process, so if you’re aiming for a big citrus bounty, make sure to factor this in. Planting Our recommendation would be to buy and grow an established lemon tree, as this gives you all the benefits without the need to grow from seed, which can be fiddly. Lemon trees from seed also take over a decade to start fruiting – so prepare yourself for the long haul! If you opt for an already-established plant, you can buy them in containers from garden centres and other plant shops, and it’s just a case of transplanting into your garden or moving the pot into your house. Growing From Seed If you decide to grow a lemon tree from seed, however, here’s how to do it – Allow the seeds to dry for a couple of weeks. Plant into potting soil to a depth of 2-3cm. Use cling film or a similar transparent plastic to cover the pot: This seals the heat in. Place the pot in a spot with plenty of sunlight. Wait until there’s at least 15-30cm of growth before planting out. After reading this section, maybe you’re wondering whether you can grow a lemon tree from a seed taken directly from a lemon? The answer is yes! You’ll want to find a plump, tasty lemon. Remove and thoroughly wash the seeds, making sure to dislodge all flesh: the sugar inside can cause damage to your seed by providing ideal conditions for fungal growth. While the first step with bought seeds is to dry them out, seeds taken directly from a lemon should be planted straight away to best facilitate growth. Lemon Tree Care Once your seeds are planted, you’ll want to keep them in ideal conditions to maximise the chance of germination. Here’s how to do that – Aim for four hours or more of direct sunlight every day. Aim for temperatures of 15-21°C. You should see growth within a few days to a week. If not, this may mean that your seeds haven’t germinated, and that you might need to try again. Once you see growth, remove the plastic cover and move to a position with more light, if possible. Once they begin to establish, you can move your lemon sapling to larger pots containing potting medium. Fertilising with high-potassium fertiliser every few weeks will provide your lemon tree with optimal nutrition and stimulate healthy growth. Transplanting Lemon trees should be planted slightly higher than the surrounding soil, so dig a hole that’s a little less deep than the root ball. Place the lemon tree in the hole, cover over, then water lightly and leave to establish. If leaving outside over winter (not recommended) be vigilant and cover the base of your lemon tree with fleece or other similar garden material on particularly cold nights. While lemon can tolerate UK weather, extreme cold will cause damage, and maybe even kill it. So keep a lookout! Feeding This citrus is a ‘fussy eater’, requiring regular nitrogen compost from late spring to early autumn, and winter feed tailored specially to citrus. “Typically, citrus feed is sold as two distinct products, usually as a powder to be mixed in a watering can,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “There is a feed for autumn and winter and one for spring and summer with different balances of nutrients. “Follow the instructions for amounts and dilutions, as you can easily cause more harm than good with too much.” Ask at your local garden centre if you’re unsure which type to use – they’ll be able to point you in the direction of the ones most beneficial to your plant. Pruning Citrus trees generally don’t need much pruning, but your lemon tree will benefit from a little TLC. You can prune back crowded branches with secateurs, or pinch the end of particularly enthusiastic branches to slow them down. Harvesting Once your tree is mature it will start to fruit. Lemon boasts a long harvest season as well, with fruit available between July and April. With such a long harvest period it’s often best to only pick lemons as and when you need them, as they’ll remain healthy and fresh if kept on the tree. Common Problems We’ve already written about insulating the base of your lemon tree during cold snaps, as extreme cold can damage or kill the plant. You also need to water carefully, as over-watering is a frequent cause of issues for lemon trees. Make sure water can drain away, and that the plant is in a position which allows excess water on leaves to evaporate away. Lemon is generally easy to grow, making it a great all-rounder for budding British gardeners. Whether you grow indoors or outdoors, from seed or from a container, a lemon tree will make a fine addition to your garden credentials. References 1. Lemon. (n.d.). New Crop Resource Online Program. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/lemon.html#Description
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