Growing
How To Grow Ornamental Onions - These Pom Pom Shaped Flowers Suit Any Garden!
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Allium Plant Care Common Problems References We have umbels loose and densely-packed, florets erect and pendent, and complementary colours of sunny yellow and vibrant purple – that’s the ornamental Allium. These plants produce bunches and clusters of tiny flowers in late spring and summer that sashay and sway in the breeze on their slender stems. They are perfect as companion plants or for mass plantings. Many Alliums flowers exude an oniony smell, just as many are in some tone of purple. And equally many species’ flowers are in the form of pom-pom-like inflorescences. “I love photographing plants with distinct seed heads such as Alilums, which can create such symmetrical compositions,” shares Molly Hollman, a Plant Photographer. Allium ‘Mount Everest’ The Allium genus includes onion, garlic, leek, shallot, chives, and what we are interested in here: pretty flowering plants that are grown as ornamentals, albeit not as central or showy ones. Alliums are actually a genus of plants whose bulbs and leaves are flavourful and edible. Some, such as the aforementioned onion and garlic, are considered purely edible plants, though many varieties certainly put out pretty flowers, whereas others are grown as flowering plants, though both the bulbs and the flowers are edible and often tasty. Overview Botanical Name Allium Common Name(s) Ornamental Onions Plant Type Bulbs Native Area Europe, Asia, Africa Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small flowers on pompom umbels When To Sow October, November Flowering Months May, June Though some species of Allium have been bred purely for the edible bulbs and are not supposed to bolt (run to flower) and which species cannot be considered flowering varieties, the line dividing edible Alliums and decorative Alliums is neither hard-and-fast nor scientific; it is quite arbitrary. Allium flowering plants have a lot going for them – they are low-care to no-care, fully hardy, reliable perennials. Their flowers are definitely unusual, being florets in pom-pom-shaped and other types of inflorescences and umbels. A. flavum While some species’ inflorescences come in white and soft tones of mauve, others provide vivid and vibrant splashes of purple and pink. They attract butterflies but repel most garden pests! And though you certainly are not going to dig up a bulb to consume it, these pretty ornamentals will be a source of stems and leaves which you can use as pot-herbs to lend a leeky, shalloty flavour or that you can use as a substitute for scallions in a salad. Habitat & Growing Conditions As Alliums are native to or naturalised over a vast range of habitats, from the Northern reaches of Russia and Canada down to Northern Africa, their habitats and growing conditions vary considerably.1 A. neapolitanum Some species grow wild in dry conditions on the steppes and plateaus of Central Asia. Others grow in moister habitats in open grasslands and shady woodlands of the United States. Still others grow in meadows and fields, and are even found in fens, in Europe. Planting Where To Plant If there ever was a companion plant or a ‘co-star plant’, Allium is it. They make for superb fillers, interesting and colourful in their own rights, to be planted between, behind, and around, late spring to early summer’s leading flowering stems such as some Amaryllis, many Irises, Columbines, and Poppies. On the other hand, some Allium species, such as A. ‘His Excellency’ and A. hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’, are excellent choices for mass plantings in view of the shape and colour of their blooms, and also the movement they bring to a garden as they sway and nod in the breeze. Other varieties that produce appealing clusters in pleasing and gentle hues are just as good for borders and edging, and for growing along the side of a porch or patio. These include A. stellatum and A. flavum. Some varieties, like A. cyaneum, are made to order for rock gardens. At the other end of the spectrum, a few varieties are unquestionably suited to architectural plantings, for example, ‘Mount Everest’ and ‘His Excellency’. It is easy to grow Allium with such plants whose foliage and flowers will conceal Allium’s fading, yellowing and dying foliage through the summer, because – as for other bulbous plants – the leaves must be left untouched so they can generate energy stores for the bulbs to regenerate after the dormant winter season. Alliums should not be grown in a windy spot, let alone a blustery one, because strong winds will tear apart the delicate inflorescences. On the other hand, a gentle wind will greatly heighten the joy of these plants as they will bob and sway merrily in the breeze. In the UK Alliums are best planted in full sun. How To Plant The ‘best’ time to plant these late spring- and early summer-blooming bulbs is early-to-mid November. Different species’ bulbs vary quite widely in size and even within a species, bulb sizes will differ. You will read some gardening how-tos advising you to plant Allium bulbs at twice the depth of the bulb’s height, and others telling you to plant at thrice the depth. Well, both are correct; the ‘right’ depth is implied by a few factors, most importantly the soil. The more loose, dry, and sand-based your soil is, the deeper you should plant a bulb, say at a depth that is thrice a given bulb’s height. The more compacted, moist, or clayey your soil is, the shallower you should plant a bulb, say twice a given bulb’s height. Water bulbs after planting and do so lightly through the winter though rainfall may well provide sufficient water. Allium Plant Care Soil Requirements Alliums are not fussy about soil or, indeed, anything else. All Alliums will be happy in a good all-round loam mix. The soil should drain well; a Slightly Acidic soil pH is preferred. “If you have heavy soil, as I do, then one option is to plant alliums into raised areas that drain more freely,” recommends RHS Master of Horticulture Colin Skelly. Sulphates The characteristic pungent odour and taste of garlic and onions, which is also present to a lesser degree in ornamental Alliums, depends upon the amounts and concentrations of sulphates in the soil. No sulphates, no pungency; high sulphates, high pungency. You can chemically control your soil’s sulphate content, though it can be a tricky business. Feeding Alliums may be fertilised just when the leaves being to show. A light feeding with 5-5-10 fertiliser or a bulb fertiliser would be beneficial. They can be fed similarly once again after the flowering season is over. At this time the plant’s water needs will increase and watering should be more regular. Cutting Back Though blooms may be deadheaded throughout the flowering season, do not cut off the foliage (unless you wish to enjoy fresh greens with your supper!). Let them wither and die. In autumn the plants can be cut down to the ground. Division Once every three years or so you may want to dig up the bulbs in late autumn so as to divide them. You can plant new ones in pots and then gift potted Alliums in spring. Some Alliums are not bulbous plants but grow from rhizomes or rhizomatous roots. These types should be dug up in spring for division which is done by carefully separating the rhizome clump with a sharp blade. Before winter sets in, though most Allium bulbs are hardy, you could cover the soil with a thin layer of leaf mulch. Common Problems Almost all Allium species that are naturalised to Europe and almost all garlics and leeks, are virtually impervious to pests. The only exceptions are onions and shallots which may fall victim to slugs. All Alliums repel rodents, deer, and harmful insects including Japanese beetle, while attracting butterflies. However, Alliums are susceptible to a couple of diseases, namely downy mildew and onion white rot. The latter is a fungal disease that is nearly impossible to treat. The harmful organisms can lie dormant and persist in the soil for many years. References 1. Allium (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000901-2
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Tulips Growing Guide: Choose Your Bulbs, Plant Out And Overwinter Them Successfully
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Tulips Plant Care Digging Up Tulip Bulbs Overwintering Division Common Problems References Which flower is supremely popular, comes in a diverse array of forms, and has a storied history? Answer: the tulip. This bulbous perennial plant was at the centre of that famous Dutch mania. “I love tulips and always try to plant a load of them in my garden so I have something to look forward to,” shares Lora Avedian, a Floral Artist. “The joy and freshness of bulbs pushing through the earth after winter is really just the best.” Tulips are mainstays in bouquets for the adored one or a family member, and though they are renowned for their rich hues, their forms are just as diverse and eye-catching. “With their versatility, ease of growth, and range of colours, tulips are the perfect addition to any outdoor space,” says the team at BULBi – a large online nursery for bulbous plants based in Bath, UK. Overview Botanical Name Tulipa Common Name(s) Tulips Plant Type Perennial Bulbs Native Area South-East Europe / Northern Africa / Russia / Central Asia Hardiness Rating Typically H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Goblet-shaped flowers in a wide range of colours When To Plant October, November Flowering Months March, April, May One of the reasons for this flower’s magnetic appeal is surely the upright stance and demure appearance of the ‘classic’ Tulip with its just-barely-open petals; another reason would be the vibrant and radiant hues in the warm band of the colour spectrum. And surely yet another reason is the way these plants usher in spring with row after row of gorgeous goblet-shaped blooms in rich colours. “Tulips are one of my favourite plants to photograph – I love them,” shares Garden Photographer Clive Nichols. “Of course, you only have a small window to take the images of them in flower, but I love how beautifully shaped they are. They make for good compositions.” As is commonly known, Tulips come in all hues and tones from white to near-black, except blue. Two or three varieties produce blooms in a medium bluish-violet, though. Not only are their colours versatile, but the team at BULBi say that tulips can also vary in shape and size, so there’s a perfect tulip for every garden display. ‘Purple Prince’ Tulips are not plants as commonly understood; they are bulbs that put out a few leaves and a flowering stem. The leaves are flat and strap-like similar to those of lilies, and this is hardly surprising because Tulips belong to the Lily Family.1 ‘Ancilla’ Though Tulips are so strongly identified with the Netherlands that one might almost say “As Dutch as a Tulip”, they are not native to the Netherlands – they are relatively recent imports but have truly been adopted by the Dutch. Today, the Netherlands is the world’s Tulip capital.2 Habitat & Growing Conditions Species Tulips are found in the steppes and hillsides of Iran, Turkey, and Central and East Asia; they also grow wild in fields and meadows.3 Most species are indigenous to temperate regions but some species are native to cold climatic zones. In the main, species Tulip habitats are dry and cool; they do not thrive in damp conditions or waterlogged soils. ‘Abu Hassan’ Cultivars are more tolerant of damp soil. Most Tulips are hardy to H6 meaning they can be grown as perennials here in the UK. “Only certain tulips will flower reliably after the first year – species tulips when grown in the right conditions, many of the cultivars in the early tulip groups and certain other named cultivars such as ‘Ballerina’ and ‘Spring Green’,” shares Roy Nicol, a Horticultural Consultant. “My advice would be to research this if repeat flowering is important to you.” How To Grow Tulips Choosing Bulbs Choose bulbs that are firm and intact without tears, and are the largest ones. Discard those that have a compromised wrapper or outer coating, that are soft anywhere, that are dry and shrivelled, or that are small. See if you can get your hands on ‘dealer’ or ‘pro’ top-size bulbs. Buy bulbs in late summer and store them in a brown paper bag or a wrapping of cotton mesh in the crisper in the fridge, though not with vegetables or fruits (particularly bulb-killing apples and pears). They can also be stored in a well-ventilated cool place such as a basement. If so, care should be taken to protect the bulbs from mice and other pests. Where To Plant Tulips differ greatly in the shape and form of the bloom, its size, the height of the stem, and the colour and also in the colours – plural. As a result, where they can be planted and how they are best shown varies quite widely. Most Tulips make excellent bedding plants, both in a single variety to multiply the effect of some intense variety, or in suitably mixed varieties. For example, 30-40 ‘Violet Beauty’ or ‘Abu Hassan’ bulbs would produce a sensational effect. ’Sweetheart’ from the Fosteriana Division In contrast, a ‘Monsella’ or ‘Groenland’ (one of the perfect Viridifloras) may be displayed in a decorative pot as a single specimen. Height (plus personal taste) are good discriminators by which to choose Tulip varieties for borders and rock gardens; medium-height varieties, preferably Singles or Doubles for the former, and short varieties in unusual forms or Division 15 species for the latter. You could use your imagination in ‘painting’ your garden with Tulips. How about a two-colour design created with ‘Catherina Single’ and ‘Queen of the Night’? Both are Single Lates. ‘Queen of the Night’ You can, of course, also mix and match Tulips with other spring flowers in harmonious or complementary colours and to set off floral forms. How To Plant Bulbs are best planted in late autumn, specifically when the soil temperature is 5-10°C. Bulbs should be planted 10-18cm deep and 10-12 cm apart. A good rule of thumb is to plant a bulb at twice to thrice the depth of its length (or height). Plant bulbs so that they are ‘pointing’ upwards – give them a good watering after planting. Now, over the winter, the bulbs will develop stores of energy to draw upon come spring, when the bulbs start to flower. During this period roots and leaves begin to develop inside the bulbs. Plant Care The ideal soil for Tulips in general is a loose loam that includes sand, gravel, and compost – the soil should drain very well. Feel free to mix in a little 5-10-10 fertiliser into the soil. Digging Up Tulip Bulbs You will usually read that Tulip bulbs should be treated as ‘annuals’ and that they must be dug up and discarded after a year, and new bulbs planted. I personally feel that the fragility of Tulip bulbs is rather exaggerated. That stated, the unfortunate truth is that Planned Obsolescence is affecting, not just the Tulip Trade, but, the Floricultural Industry as a whole. Only rank-and-file gardeners, the ultimate consumers, can bring about a change by demanding and buying reliable perennial bulbs (and non-sterile seed varieties for other plants). If you purchased a healthy, good-quality bulb, planted it correctly in good soil, and even fed it, it will continue producing flowers for years. This is especially true for certain Divisions, for example 1, 4, 5, 14 and 15. Admittedly, the same may not prove true for other Divisions, for example 7 and 10. ‘Monsella’ Tulips Though you may – or ought to – deadhead flowers, do not cut off a Tulip’s (or, in general, any bulb’s) leaves until they are totally withered and browned. Overwintering In regions that fall in USDA Zone 5 and above Tulip bulbs can be left in the ground through winter. Almost the entirety of the United Kingdom falls in USDA Zone 7 and no region falls in Zone 5 or lower. If you leave your bulbs in the ground over winter, just be sure that the soil is well-draining, spread leaf mulch thinly on the soil before winter sets in, and if there is a prolonged dry spell water the bulbs weekly. If you anticipate very cold weather or frost, spread horticultural fleece over the soil. In mid-March, feed the bulbs with a slow-release 5-10-5 and start to water again. If you leave your bulbs in the ground through the winter, you will reap a bonus. Division Each year, the bulbs will have grown offsets, which you can divide and replant as new bulbs. These small bulbs can take a couple of years to flower. After two years, either re-work the soil or shift the bulb so that it is about 20cm away, both from its own previous position and from other bulbs’ positions. Common Problems Tulips are, relatively speaking, very resistant to pests and are disease-free. Stem-And-Bulb Eelworm Unfortunately, the one pest that they are susceptible to is one of the nastiest and most damaging of all, stem-and-bulb eelworm. If you suspect an eelworm infestation you may even have to dig up a few bulbs and cut them open for inspection as to whether or not the problem is in fact eelworm. As a stem-and-bulb eelworm infestation persists in the soil and is difficult to eradicate, this pest needs to be discovered and treated early by qualified professionals. Other than that, Tulips may be attacked by aphids and slugs. Tulip bulbs are prone to bulb rot but this is a disease that can be forestalled by planting them in the right type of soil that drains well. “The Tulip Fire fungus is also a common problem and shows as scorched leaves and flowers which rot,” adds Roy. “It can be avoided by planting as late as possible (November) and not planting tulips in infected ground for at least three years.” References 1. Christenhusz, M. J. M., Govaerts, R., David, J. R., Hall, T., Borland, K., Roberts, P. S., Tuomisto, A., Buerki, S., Chase, M. W., & Fay, M. F. (2013). Tiptoe through the tulips – cultural history, molecular phylogenetics and classification ofTulipa(Liliaceae). Botanical Journal of the Linnean Society, 172(3), 280–328. https://doi.org/10.1111/boj.12061 2. Statista Research Department. (2022c, September 27). Netherlands: value import and export tulip bulbs 2021. Statista. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.statista.com/statistics/581482/value-of-the-import-and-export-of-tulip-bulbs-in-the-netherlands/ 3. Trinklein, D. (2016, October 10). Tulip: A Brief History. Integrated Pest Management. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2016/10/Tulip_A_Brief_History/
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Growing Bell Peppers - 'The Hotter The Capsicum, The More Heat It Needs To Germinate'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Bell Peppers Capsicum Plant Care Harvesting Troubleshooting References This variety, known variously as ‘Bell Peppers’, ‘Sweet Peppers’, ‘Capsicum’, or even just ‘Pepper’, is from the Capsicum annuum species. The humble pepper has had a long journey to get to our plates. Native to Central and South America, they gained popularity in Europe and Asia from the 1500s.1 A Hungarian botanist developed the mild pepper in the 1920s, increasing its appeal to the average palette.2 Overview Botanical Name Capsicum annuum Common Name(s) Sweet (Bell) Peppers Plant Type Fruit Native Area Central & South America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen (though usually treated as an annual) Flowers Flowers followed by edible peppers When To Sow (Indoors) January to April Plant Out June Harvesting Months July to October Bell peppers come in four colours: green, yellow, orange, and red. If you’ve not grown them yourself before, you may not know that they’re all actually the same plant, just at different stages of ripeness. Green is the least ripe, red the most, and orange and yellow in between. When growing your own peppers it’s up to you to decide which colour you want them to be when picked. Leave them on a little longer and they’ll become less bitter! This mirrors the behaviour of chilli peppers – a close relative of bell peppers – where the fruits become hotter (rather than sweeter) the longer they are left on the plant. How To Grow Bell Peppers You can buy bell pepper seeds from any good garden retailer, so the first sections of this guide will cover growing bell peppers from seed. This is actually an easy but very rewarding process that can be undertaken on any home windowsill with ease. However, it is also possible to buy a young plant if you’d rather skip the first few steps, and get straight to planting out. Where To Grow Because of their warm heritage, bell peppers do best when they’re kept warm. Grow in a heated propagator with the temperature set around 20°C or, if you don’t have one of those, on a warm and sunny windowsill. Wherever you choose to grow your pepper, put a stick in the soil and cover the whole thing with a plastic bag. This will keep heat and moisture in, leading to better growth. “I find the hotter the Capsicum, the more heat it needs to germinate,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant and Instructor. “Bell pepper seeds will generally germinate readily in an unheated greenhouse from April in the South of England, on a windowsill from March. “Hotter chilli varieties need more heat and time, so I sow my chilli varieties from January.” Sowing Sow your bell pepper seeds between the middle of February and the end of April. Pop them in seed compost, either in seed trays or in individual pots, then place the seedlings somewhere warm and cover them over, as detailed previously. You’re looking for two full leaves to form on each seedling before you do anything else, as this is the first indication that they’re strong enough to move. “I sow on the surface of a seed tray containing a mix of moist 50% well-sieved seed compost and 50% vermiculite,” shares Dan. “After watering, I now have two ways of getting the germination temperatures I need. Firstly, I place them in a heated propagator with a propagator lid with access to light, leaving until ready to transplant seedlings into pots, or alternatively, I place them in a clear plastic bag or propagator and put them in the airing cupboard above the water heater until seedlings emerge. “I then place them in a warm light space, but not on a windowsill unless in a heated propagator, as night-time temperatures can be very cold, I transplant them into pots when ready.” Transplanting (Indoors) For best results, growing indoors is probably my favourite. This gives your peppers a better chance to stay warm, especially if you grow them somewhere like a greenhouse that’s designed to capture the sunlight. You’ll want a fairly large pot, ideally 30cm or more in diameter, to give your pepper plant space to grow. Even though the tiny seedling will look lost in a pot all by itself, you’ll be surprised how quickly they grow! Aim to move your young pepper plant at the end of April if your greenhouse is heated, or at the beginning of May if not. Transplanting (Outdoors) When growing outdoors you can put your peppers in a pot, a grow bag, or straight into the ground. Plant out after the middle of May, long after the last frost has passed. Young peppers are fragile and won’t do well at all with frosty conditions, so take extra care to heed this step. “Plant out or plant on into a bigger pot using the same compost mix and consider feeding with a seaweed growth stimulant or tomato feed with seaweed extract after a few days of settling in,” shares Dan. Capsicum Plant Care If you haven’t grown peppers before you’ll be pleasantly surprised to learn they are fairly easy to care for (especially when growing indoors). One thing you must absolutely get right is their watering schedule, as too little water can cause the fruits of your plant to spoil and rot. This is something which I have direct experience with, owing to my inconsistent and often erratic watering schedule! Watering Peppers are very thirsty plants, so make sure to water them regularly. Stay especially vigilant during hot weather to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out, as this will hinder their ability to grow. In late spring and summer, I water mine at least once a day – sometimes more. I also use a mulch to help prevent moisture from evaporating from the soil. Fertilising After the first fruits appear, give your pepper plants a healthy dose of liquid fertiliser. Tomato or comfrey feed is a good shout, or something with a similar nutritional profile. This will help your peppers to grow big and strong. During fruiting season I’d recommend feeding your plant every fortnight or so. Pinching Back Left unchecked, pepper plants can become quite unruly. You can pinch back stems to curate growth, with pinched tips good for encouraging branching, and pinching back side shoots good for promoting more peppers to grow. Note that while pinching back side shoots will lead to more fruit, each one will be smaller. Harvesting When your peppers look ready to pick, you can pick them. Wait until they’re the size you want, and leave them until they’re at your preferred stage of ripeness. Remember: green peppers will ripen into red, through yellow and orange. If you leave a pepper on the vine to ripen, another pepper won’t be able to take its place. Harvesting green peppers brings the chance for an extra set of fruit that season, so plan your picking accordingly. Troubleshooting As with anything in your garden, peppers are prone to attract certain pests. Here’s what to look for and, more importantly, how to eradicate them: Aphids These miniature green visitors love to eat the sap inside leaves, then leave their excrement behind which attracts fungus. You’ll be able to see aphids with the naked eye, and if you notice a visitation, the first step is to remove them by hand. Personally I have had multiple aphid infestations on my pepper plants and have usually managed to curtail them by washing the leaves and removing by hand. Ideally you wouldn’t want to use a pesticide on your peppers as it’s best to grow them organically, but this is a last-ditch option to consider if all else has failed. Glasshouse Red Spider These fellows sometimes weave thin webs to cover a section of a plant, before feasting on everything inside. This type of bug is attracted by hot, dry growing conditions, so ensuring air remains moist is a good way of keeping them at bay. Spritz your pepper plants occasionally to deter them. If identified, the remedy is the same as aphids. You’ll be amazed at how many peppers your humble little seedling will put forth by the end of its first season, and you’ll be amazed at how good they taste. References 1. Capsicum annuum (bell pepper). (2019). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.15784 2. The Travelling Botanist: Belated Plant Fascination Day Special: Peppers! (2019, May 21). Herbology Manchester. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://herbologymanchester.wordpress.com/2019/05/21/the-travelling-botanist-belated-plant-fascination-day-special-peppers/
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Celery Varieties And Growing Methods With Permaculture Gardener Elizabeth Waddington
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Celery? Celery Varieties How To Grow Celery Preferred Soil Growing From Seed Regrowing Celery Stalks Companion Planting Celery Care Harvesting References Celery is not necessarily the easiest crop for novice gardeners to grow from seed, but it can be a great addition to a kitchen garden. Whether you eat it raw, in a salad, or cooked in soups and other meals, this is a useful vegetable that can be great to add to a home-growing repertoire. The celery that you can grow in your garden are cultivars of Apium graveolens. This is a plant that naturally grows in marshy ground, which has been grown as a vegetable since ancient times.1 The long fibrous stalks of the plants are the part most commonly eaten as a vegetable. The leaves at the ends of the stalks are also edible, though stronger tasting, and are often used as a pot herb.2 Overview Botanical Name Apium graveolens Common Name(s) Celery Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Edible herb leaves When To Sow (Indoors) March, April Plant Out May, June Harvesting Months August, September, October, November Celery is a biennial crop – it will usually flower and set seed only in its second year. However it can bolt, and prematurely set seed when grown as an annual crop – the reasons for which we will discuss a little later in this article. A related species, Apium graveolens var. rapaceum is a different vegetable known as celeriac, which is grown in the UK and across Europe for its large edible bulbs, rather than for its stalks or leaves. Why Grow Celery? Celery is usually an easy crop to grow (with the right knowledge) and a great inclusion for a home-grown vegetable garden. One thing to note is that while celery can be rather challenging to grow from seed, it can also be regrown from the base of a stem, which is a quick and easy way to get started with growing your own. We’ll cover both methods in this article. Celery can grow well alongside many other plants typically grown in a kitchen garden – so where the right conditions can be provided, it can add to the biodiversity of your beds and be a key component of polyculture organic garden schemes. Celery Varieties If you decide to grow celery from seed, then one important decision that you will have to make is, of course, which variety or varieties to grow. ‘Utah’ Some top varieties to grow include: ‘Celebrity’ ‘Full White’ ‘Galaxy’ ‘Granada’ ‘Lorreta’ ‘Octavius’ ‘Redventure’ (Cross of ‘Red Giant’ and ‘Ventura’) ‘Tango’ (this variety has good resistance to bolting) ‘Utah’ ‘Victoria’ How To Grow Celery Celery can be grown in containers, in raised beds, or in the ground, as long as suitable moist conditions can be provided and maintained. Water is the most important thing when caring for celery, so it is important to choose to grow it somewhere where adequate moisture in the growing medium can be maintained. Preferred Soil Remember, the wild celery from which modern cultivars were derived naturally grows in marshy conditions. Celery will thrive in full sun, in a humus-rich and moisture-retentive yet light and open soil or growing medium. It is unfussy as to soil pH, however, and can thrive even in more extremely acid or alkaline conditions. It is important to prepare a growing area well before planting out celery, which you will usually do sometime between late May and July. Growing From Seed As mentioned above, growing celery from seed can be somewhat challenging. The main issue is that the seeds can be rather slow to germinate, and are also somewhat fussy when it comes to the environmental conditions required for germination to take place successfully. Seeds are typically sown between mid-March and early April. They can be direct sown where conditions allow, and in undercover growing areas of with protection, but it is best to sow them indoors or under cover, in seed trays, modules or pots. Direct sowing reduces the risk of transplantation shock, but starting in trays, modules or pots makes it much easier to make sure that the necessary conditions for germination are met. Celery can germinate from a minimum of 4°C, but when seeds and seedlings experience temperatures below 10°C then they can be more likely to bolt later in the season. “As this can often be difficult to manage, it’s a good idea to minimise the risk of bolting by choosing bolt-resistant varieties such as Celery ‘Tango’,” says Roy Nicol, Master Horticulturist. The optimal temperature range for germination is between 15-21°C. Hold off sowing until these temperatures can reliably be maintained. Bear in mind that germination can take some time, and seedlings may not emerge for 2-3 weeks. Seeds must be sown on the top of the growing medium, with just a very thin sprinkle of sieved compost or potting mix on top. Moisture is very important – the compost or potting mix must be consistently moist for germination to take place, and conditions must remain moist as seedlings emerge. Mist carefully to make sure moisture is maintained without damaging the tiny seedlings when they appear. Once seedlings emerge, wait patiently until they are large enough to handle, which is usually when they have several true leaves. Then carefully prick out each one and place them into their own individual pots or modules to grow on. Harden off and transplant celery into growing areas or your garden once the weather is reliably above at least 10°C. Any shocks or chills during the early stages of the life of your celery – any issues will make it far more likely that the celery plants will bolt. Regrowing Celery Stalks If you are a novice gardener, you may find it challenging to grow celery successfully from seed. If you are looking for an easier option, you should know that you can regrow celery stalks from the base of a celery that you have bought. Place the base of the celery in a shallow bowl or saucer of water, and wait for roots to appear. After the roots have formed, new growth will emerge from the top of the base. You can keep refreshing the water and keep the celery in the water, or replant the celery with its new roots somewhere suitable in your garden. Companion Planting Celery is said to have a repellent effect on brassica pests like the cabbage white butterfly, so it can be beneficially planted alongside members of the cabbage family. Beans, alliums (leeks, onions etc), spinach, and tomatoes are also said to grow well alongside this crop. Pungent aromatic herbs will also help when planted close to celery – consider basil, thyme, sage, hyssop, or coriander, for example. Avoid planting celery alongside carrots and other umbellifers, as these will be too much in competition with celery plants. Celery Care Watering Water is the most important thing with celery – this cannot be stressed enough. Make sure you water well and consistently throughout the growing season, and never allow the soil or growing medium to dry out. Blanching When preparing a growing area for celery, you will need to consider whether you have chosen a self-blanching variety, or will undertake work to blanch the stems as the plants grow. Trenching is one common method for growing celery that will be blanched: A trench is prepared that is around 35-50cm wide and 30cm in depth. This trench is filled with organic matter (in autumn, or in early spring). Celery is then planted in a line along this trench, at a spacing of around 20-25cm. Then, when the stems are around 30cm tall, earth is mounded up around the stalks a bit at a time so just the tops are left exposed, thereby blocking the sun. Alternatively, cardboard collars can be used for blanching. Self-blanching varieties will not necessarily require this treatment. These types are often sown in blocks, so plants shade one another, which is enough to create the pale and tender stalks desired. Mulching It is a good idea to mulch with a nitrogen-rich mulch once the celery is established. Mulches will not just add fertility but also help retain moisture and suppress weeds. If you are growing celery in containers, you should also feed every couple of weeks with a compost tea or other balanced, organic liquid plant feed. Pests & Diseases “The larvae of the celery leaf mining fly feed on the leaves of celery, giving them a dried or scorched appearance,” explains Roy. “Infestations can be prevented by covering plants with an insect-proof mesh, otherwise removing infected leaves promptly can prevent plants from being affected enough to cause stunted growth. “The fungal infection celery leaf spot will also reduce the vigour of plants if allowed to spread, so infected leaves should also be removed promptly.”3 Harvesting Celery is typically harvested between August and October and lifted before the first frosts. Though trenching (or growing with protection in an undercover growing area) could allow you to string things out as late as mid-winter. You can begin to harvest as soon as the plants are large enough, simply by cutting off the stalks at the base with a sharp knife. References 1. Celery: A Brief History. (n.d.). University of Missouri. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2011/11/Celery-A-Brief-History/ 2. Hunt, T. (2019, July 9). Why are you throwing away your celery leaves? The Guardian. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/jul/14/waste-not-celery-leaves-herbs-salad 3. Celery. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved May 10, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/vegetables/celery/grow-your-own
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Elizabeth Waddington Grows Delicious Beetroot Every Year - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Beetroot? Choosing Beetroot Seeds Companion Plants Beetroot Plant Care References Beetroot is a common garden crop, and a great choice both for beginners and expert home growers. It is actually one of my favourite garden crops – I grow it every year, and recommend it to you wholeheartedly if you are trying to work out what to grow in an edible garden this spring. “I love growing beetroot which rarely fails and tastes delicious in salads and casseroles,” shares Garden Writer Janice Shipp. Beetroots, or beets as they are known elsewhere, are the edible taproots of Beta vulgaris. Overview Botanical Name Beta vulgaris Common Name(s) Beetroot, Beets Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Edible, green leaves There are a number of cultivated varieties of this species which are grown for their edible taproots. While the bulbous taproot is the main part of the plant used for culinary purposes, the leaves and stems (beetroot greens or beet greens) of the plants are also edible. Originally plants were selected for their edible leaves before varieties with swollen roots were bred in the Middle Ages.1 Why Grow Beetroot? Beetroot is a versatile crop that makes a great addition to a homegrown vegetable garden. This root vegetable can be eaten raw, boiled, roasted and in many other ways. It can also be preserved through pickling, and used to make a range of condiments. The young leaves are great in salads, and larger, older leaves can be used as a cooked green akin to chard or spinach. Some people think that they do not like beetroot – until they try it fresh from their garden. If your only introduction has been to the boiled or pickled beetroots, then try them baked, or grated raw into a coleslaw or salad, and you may change your mind. One of the great things about beetroot is that you can grow it relatively easily in traditional vegetable plots, raised beds or containers. So it is a great choice even for beginners, and it works well even in smaller gardens, since this is a crop that will not take up too much space. Choosing Beetroot Seeds Before you start growing beetroot at home, you will need to decide which variety (or varieties) to grow. There are plenty of great heritage seeds and commercial varieties to choose from. Good typical reddish beetroots to choose from include: ‘Bettollo’ ‘Bolivar’ ‘Boltardy’ ‘Bona’ ‘Bull’s Blood’ ‘Detroit Globe’ ‘Early Wonder’ ‘Kestrel’ ‘Pablo’ ‘Red Ace’ ‘Rhonda’ B. vulgaris ‘Barbietola di Chioggia’ is interesting because it has pink and white concentric rings inside. B. vulgaris ‘Cylindra’ have elongated roots. There is also B. vulgaris ‘Blankoma’, with unusual green and white roots. When making your choices, be sure to think about taste, appearance, and whether you need roots to store or just to eat when young and fresh. Consider, too, whether you want to choose a heritage type and save your own seeds. If you do plan to save your own seeds, remember that chard can cross easily with beetroot, so you’ll have to keep them apart if you do not want them to. Companion Plants Beetroot works very well in mixed polycultures and will grow happily alongside a wide range of other common garden crops. Polyculture with beans, beetroot, chard and more One option that can work well is including beetroot in rotation with carrots and onions. Carrots and beetroots are both root crops, of course, and yet carrots are typically deeper rooted and so they are not overly competitive with one another for water and nutrients. Onions work well with both carrots and beetroot, and their strong smell can help in repelling pests. Planting beetroots alongside other alliums, such as garlic, shallots or leeks can work well too. Beetroot is also excellent for growing alongside Brassicas. It can work well in rotation with these cabbage family crops. Plant beetroots alongside these crops and they use different nutrients, reducing competition between them Quick-growing lettuce and radishes can also be included in polycultures with beetroots and brassicas, to fill in gaps while larger crops establish, making the most of the space. Planting beetroots among catnip, summer savoury, and certain other aromatic herbs can also help in controlling pests that may nibble on your beetroot leaves. Avoid planting beetroot next to runner beans, Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer in Horticulture, explains: “They add lots of nitrogen to the soil, which makes for a leafy beet, at the expense of the root.” Beetroot Plant Care Beetroot is generally a relatively trouble-free crop. It rarely requires additional fertilisation as long as the potting mix or soil is nutrient-rich. However, where the plants are not growing strongly, you can consider adding a balanced fertiliser, a nitrogen-rich organic fertiliser or liquid plant feed. During dry spells, it is typical to water beetroot every 10-14 days. Though beetroot grown under cover or in containers will often need to be watered more frequently. Make sure that you keep the medium consistently moist or bolting (premature flowering and setting of seed) is more likely to become an issue. Roots that do not receive enough water are also more likely to split and become woody. “In terms of pests, the main pest I find is the flea beetle, which chews holes in the leaves,” adds Peter. “Often, the damage can be tolerated, but if extreme, they can be netted. “Ponds are great additions to gardens, which attract predatory frogs.” Remember to thin beetroot to a spacing of around 10cm; you can wash and eat the thinnings. Then, once the beetroot are around the size of a golf ball, pull every second one, leaving the rest, if you wish, to reach maturity. “My favourite way to eat beetroot is as beetroot burgers and several of the other ingredients, including onions, grow happily side-by-side,” says Peter. References 1. Fascinating facts and figures: beetroot. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/FFF-Beetroot
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Growing Ficus Elastica ‘Rubber Plant’ - They Add A Lot Of Colour To A Home
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Rubber Tree? How To Grow A Rubber Plant Rubber Tree Care Common Problems References If you or your friends keep houseplants, it’s very likely that you’ve seen at least one Ficus elastica in your life. This popular plant is ideal for growing at home thanks to its distinct and attractive aesthetic, its resistance to pests, and its general low maintenance requirements. Overview Botanical Name Ficus elastica Common Name(s) Rubber Tree, Rubber Plant, India Rubber Plant Plant Type Houseplant / Tree Native Area East Himalaya to North Malaysia Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Inconspicuous When To Sow (Indoors) Year-Round Flowering Months May, June When To Prune February, March F. elastica is the botanical name for a plant more commonly known as rubber plant, rubber tree, Assam rubber, India rubber fig, and many other names. According to records from Kew, its native range spans much of South East Asia and Southern China.1 Confusingly, another plant called Hevea brasiliensis also goes by the names ‘Rubber Tree’ and ‘Rubber Plant’; this species is the primary source of natural rubber. Why Grow A Rubber Tree? F. elastica ticks many of the boxes that houseplant enthusiasts look for: It’s pretty to look at, boasting thick rubbery leaves that hold a lot of colour. There are a variety of shades and colours available, from greens through to burgundies. It’s not too big. While the plant can grow over 20 metres tall in its natural habitat, a houseplant will clock in around a metre. It’s easy to look after, requiring no special treatment and fairly infrequent watering. It’s unlikely to attract pests, meaning there’s less scope for things to go wrong. It’s easy to clean – if yours are liable to get dusty, F. elastica’s strong leaves lend themselves well to a gentle rubdown. Easy enough to appeal to beginners, but versatile and attractive enough to remain appealing to even the most seasoned experts. How To Grow A Rubber Plant Buying a mature rubber plant is probably the most popular way of incorporating one into your squadron of houseplants, and they’re fairly cheap to buy from most gardening shops. If you’re feeling adventurous, though, they’re not too challenging to grow from seeds or cuttings. Growing From Seed Unlike many seeds, you don’t need to bury a rubber plant seed in soil to get it growing. Instead, leave it in a tray or container in indirect sunlight, and spritz it a few times a day to keep it moist. You can place a light cloth over the seed whilst you spritz it to ensure better coverage. Once the seed has sprouted, usually after a week or so, you can relocate it to a pot. Aim for loam-based compost, and continue to keep the seedling in indirect light while it builds strength. Be gentle when moving the seedling as it will be very delicate. Growing From A Cutting Taking a cutting from a mature plant is a great way to get a new rubber plant. “Houseplants are more often sold as plants than seeds, so cuttings might be the best way to add to your plant collection, especially for Ficus, which roots quite readily,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “If your plant is growing happily then your cuttings should grow well in the same position until they are large enough to move elsewhere.” You’re looking to cut about 10cm of the stem from the mother plant; taking care to make sure there are 2 or 3 leaf nodes on the stem (a node is a section where the leaf joins the stem). Then, you need to plant the stem in soil mixed with rooting medium. Plant up to half of the stem below the soil, with all the leaves above the surface, then water the soil, cover the plant with plastic and leave it to grow. After a couple of weeks the stem will have rooted beneath the soil. When the roots are between 3-5cm long, it’s safe to relocate the plant to a bigger pot – again, be gentle! Rubber Tree Care Fertilising For optimal condition, give your rubber plant a dose of liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks during the spring and summer months. Check the label of the fertiliser you use to ensure the correct dilution, as you don’t want to overfeed your plant. Watering One of the most common causes of rubber plant problems is over-watering, so read this section carefully. Rubber plants only need watering when the soil begins to feel dry. Poke a finger an inch or so into the soil and water when things are starting to feel dry. Don’t wait until it’s bone dry, and don’t water when the soil is clearly moist, either. You should only keep rubber plants in pots with sufficient drainage – this gives water ample opportunity to be absorbed into the plant, while allowing excess water to drain away. Pruning As we mentioned earlier, in the wild, rubber plants can grow to enormous heights exceeding 20-30m. Unless you live in an equally enormous house, it’s unlikely you’ll want your plant to reach full height. Thankfully, pruning rubber plants is easy – simply trim the top off of your plant when it reaches the desired height. You can also tidy up leaves further down the plant, cutting them back to keep things looking orderly. Ideally you’d do this in the spring and summer months, but if you have a sudden desire to prune in the other seasons, your plant will be able to recover. Common Problems In the watering section we mentioned that over-watering is one of the most common issues. Here’s what else to look for in a rubber plant – Losing Leaves Wilting, damaged, and dying leaves are the main symptom of over-watering. If you’re seeing this, water less frequently, remind yourself when to water, and consider repotting your plant into dryer soil. Pests When grown under glass, rubber plants are prone to mites, scale bugs, mealy bugs, and other pests. These critters can cause various mayhem to plants, often involving feeding on the sap inside their leaves. With a pest infestation it’s likely you’ll be able to see eggs, excrement, or the bugs themselves with the naked eye. The first step is to remove them by hand and gently clean the leaf – then give it a few days and see if the problematic visitors return. If so, you’ll want to move on to pesticides – choosing a product that discourages ongoing visits whilst avoiding damage to your plant. There are a variety of products available, ranging in strength and price. References 1. Ficus elastica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:60458499-2
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Here Are 3 Growing Options For Mint - And Why You Have To Be Careful With It
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Mint (Three) Growing Options Common Problems References Mint seems to be a little bit like Marmite, in that people really like it, or despise it completely. Whilst we get that the distinct flavour doesn’t always work in the contexts it’s used in, don’t write mint off completely just yet. In fact, growing your own fresh mint at home will put you in control of how you employ minty flavours in your cooking and tea making. “I love growing mint, although you have to be careful with it,” shares Danny Clarke, TV Presenter & Horticulturist. “Mint smells lovely and is very tactile. “There are so many varieties of mint that will give you so many different scents – it might surprise you. They can smell like chocolate, coffee – all sorts!” In this guide we’ll equip you with the knowledge required to get a vibrant mint bush blooming in your garden. You’ll be able to grow it, care for it, resolve any common issues and, most importantly, harvest the tasty leaves to be deployed in your kitchen whenever you need. Overview Botanical Name Mentha Common Name(s) Mint Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia, North America Hardiness Rating H5-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or pinkish flowers When To Sow March, April, May, September, October, November Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September, October, November The word mint broadly refers to the plant family Lamiaceae, which contains pretty much every herb you can think of.1 Oregano, thyme, rosemary, sage, basil, marjoram, and even lavender are just a handful of the aromatic herbs you’ll find in the family tree, for example. Zooming in a little bit, though, through the subfamily Nepetoideae, the tribe Mentheae, down to the genus Mentha, we find the plants that most people are probably thinking of when they say ‘mint’.2 The Mentha genus contains mint plants like this one “I love growing herbs but mint is definitely my favourite,” shares Debi Holland, a Garden Writer. “I grow vast amounts of Moroccan mint in my garden. Actually, it runs wild with little intervention from me but I use it most days to make homemade tea! “My other favourite is chocolate mint which is absolutely sublime and I am on a mission to bulk up my plant to make lots of tea.” It’s not fully understood what distinguishes the different species in the family, but there are 24 different species in existence.3 What is known, however, is that spearmint and peppermint are probably the two most common types in the culinary context. Spearmint (Mentha spicata), which also goes by the names common mint, lamb mint, garden mint, and more – originally hails from Europe and southern Asia, but is now naturalised in many parts of the world.4 Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) is a hybrid between spearmint and another species called water mint (Mentha aquatica).5 Like spearmint, it has spread from its roots in Europe to central Asia to cover most of the world.6 These two types are most commonly used in food and drink, to make essential oils, as a source of menthol, and much more. How To Grow Mint Now you’ve seen just how versatile and widespread mint is, both geographically and culturally, you’re probably itching to get some growing in your garden. First up… (Three) Growing Options Transplanting The most common option by far when growing mint is to buy a young plant in a container and transplant it to your garden. This is quick, cheap, and easy, and gives you a good shot at a strong and healthy plant. Propagating Cuttings You can grow mint from cuttings, too. Simply trim 5-8cm from a mature plant and leave in a glass of water out of direct sunlight. After a week or so it’ll sprout roots, ready for transplanting into soil. Growing From Seed If you’re looking to grow from seed, this is possible as well – if maybe a little more fiddly. Mint seeds are tiny. We recommend sprinkling seeds thinly onto the soil surface, then covering with about half a centimetre more soil, as this is far less tricky than trying to individually plant tiny seeds. Then you’ll need to thin out the seedlings once they germinate, which should take about two weeks. When they grow big enough to have two true leaves, harden them off and prepare them for planting out. Where To Grow Mint When choosing a spot for your mint, keep in mind that this is a very ambitious plant. Left unsupervised it will spread far and wide via underground roots, quickly becoming unruly and threatening other nearby plants, as Danny explains: “I wouldn’t plant it straight in the ground because it can act like a weed and take over your space. “The best thing would be to put that in a pot.” As Danny says, many gardeners opt to grow mint in pots, keeping its enthusiastic roots carefully separate from nearby soil. If you’re especially keen on planting mint into the ground, you can use a common gardening hack to do so whilst still discouraging unruly growth. To do this, find a big bucket, cut the bottom out of it (or buy a bottomless bucket in the first place), bury it into the soil, and grow your mint inside. The wall of the bucket will keep roots in place, and if a couple of inches of the bucket are left above ground, this will keep intrepid surface shoots in check as well. You’ll also want to keep different types of mint apart from each other, as this proximity can lead all varieties involved to lose their distinctive scents and flavours. Keeping a decent amount of space between different mints will keep them vibrant and characteristic. Watering Mint is a thirsty plant and will require lots of watering. This is especially applicable in hot and dry weather. Fertilising Use fresh compost for each new mint plant to give it the best access to the nutrients required for healthy growth. “When these nutrients deplete after a few months, mint plants can be given a balanced fertiliser feed once a month to keep the fresh growth coming ready for harvesting,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. While it’s not technically fertilising, this tip does involve soil, and so fits well into this section. If your mint plant isn’t thriving, remove it from its container along with the soil, then separate the plant from the soil, split the root ball in two, and repot one half in the same container with new compost. The other half can be planted elsewhere, increasing next year’s mint quota. Cutting Back Each summer, some of the shoots on your mint plant will flower. To encourage the best growth next season, trim the flowered shoots down to a few centimetres above the surface of the soil. Common Problems Mint is massively widespread which suggests it must be fairly resilient and able to take care of itself, however there are a things to look for when growing your own: Aphids New growth in the spring can often attract aphids which distort the leaves and leave black deposits. Ladybirds will often take care of these pests but if it’s too early in the season for them, aphids can be wiped off the mint leaves. Fungal rust This fungal infection leaves yellow or orange blemishes on the stems and leaves of a plant, and can cause a lot of damage if left unchecked. As the fungus spreads through spores, the best course of action is to dig up and destroy severely infected plants. While it may seem drastic, this prevents the spores from infecting other plants, and it is a less destructive course of action in the long run. Also take a thorough look over young mint plants if bought from a shop. It’s unlikely but definitely possible to buy a plant that’s already infected, so try to avoid this. Mint beetle Not every plant regularly draws the attention of a beetle so often that it’s named after it! Mint beetles, small and green, definitely evoke their eponymous plant, however. Their tendency to feed on mint plants, and to let their larvae do the same, can lead to damage if left unchecked. Thankfully, the beetles are big enough to easily be seen with the naked eye. Simply remove any beetles or eggs as and when you notice them. The mint beetle is a relatively new pest to the UK and so far most sightings have been in Southern England. References 1. Lamiaceae (mint family). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/family/lamiaceae/ 2. Subfamily Nepetoideae. (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/520502-Nepetoideae 3. Mentha. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved July 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30016176-2 4. Spearmint – Mentha spicata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/spearmint 5. Heberling, M. (n.d.). Peppermint: A Hybrid Herb for the Holidays. Carnegie Museum of Natural History. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://carnegiemnh.org/peppermint-a-hybrid-herb-for-the-holidays/ 6. Mentha × piperita. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved July 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:450969-1#:~:text=The%20native%20range%20of%20this,The%20hybrid%20formula%20is%20M
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How To Plant And Grow Primroses: 'Great For Pots And Can Be Placed In Full Sun'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Primrose Plant Care Common Problems The Primrose, that voiceless herald of spring, is strongly identified with the UK. An abundance of relatively new cultivar series means that Primroses are available in numerous colours in tones pastel and saturated, in double forms, and even in variegated tones. Overview Botanical Name Primula vulgaris Common Name(s) Primula; Primrose Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area West & Southern Europe Hardiness Rating H4-H7 Foliage Semi-evergreen Flowers Various colours – often yellow When To Sow March, April, September, October Flowering Months January, February, March, April, May Spring just wouldn’t be complete without primroses in an English country garden – correction, in any English garden. Indeed, Primroses are so strongly identified with England that although P. vulgaris is native to – besides the British Isles – most of Europe it is called ‘English Primrose’ all over the world. Its subspecies P. vulgaris subsp. vulgaris, also known as Common Primrose, extends its native range to near Asia. Habitat & Growing Conditions Moisture, shade, and cool temperatures – these three factors combine to make the ideal habitat for Primroses. Thus, these plants are very often found in and around damp woodlands close to bodies of water. And if there is one genus for which the virtually standard caution against heavy clay soils and wet soils can be dispensed with it, it is the English Primrose, Common Primrose, and most Primrose varieties, most particularly the Giant Cowslip. The majority of Primrose varieties prefers moist-to-damp soils, the only difference between the varieties being one of degree. Almost all varieties are somewhat acidophilic with the difference between varieties, again, being one of degree. The suitable pH for these plants ranges from 6.1-7.0. rich humus- and compost-based soils are best for these plants. P. ‘Gold Laced’ Group (Polyanthus) Most Primrose species prefer shade or part shade, though there are exceptions. Primrose varieties’ Hardiness Zones vary quite widely but most, including P. vulgaris and its subspecies, have a USDA Hardiness Zone from 4 to 8 (H4-H7 RHS hardiness). P. belarina ‘Valentine’ Planting Primrose When To Plant Autumn and spring are the best seasons to grow Primroses by any method by which a particular variety can be grown (or planted or propagated). Seeds are best sown in late autumn, otherwise in early spring. Dividing the plants or separating offsets is another method of propagation. Depending on the variety this is best done in spring, autumn, or either and both. For example, you should divide P. denticulata in spring but P. vulgaris Belarina series cultiviars in autumn. Where To Plant Where you plant a Primrose plant depends fairly strongly on the particular variety. P. vulgaris and its subspecies are great for mass plantings, are suitable for rock gardens, for growing on verges and slopes, and even as a delightful ground cover. On the other hand, plants from the series that bear intensely-coloured and truly showy flowers, such as the ‘Danova’ series, are ideally suited as bedding display plants, for borders and edges, and as decorative container plants. As for the highly striking varieties like ‘Perle von Bottrop’, ‘Zebra Blue’, and ‘Gold-Laced’ Group, these can be grown and displayed as true specimen plants in their own rights. Plant Care Soil Requirements A very good soil in which to grow the vast majority of Primroses would be a slightly acidic fertile clay-based loam with humus and peat moss. It should be kept moist and especially so in hot or dry weather. As opposed to the species, particularly ‘Cowslip’, Primrose cultivars and series should be planted in soils with very good drainage. Sunlight Primroses are known as shade-loving plants and in the main this is true. They will grow well in partial shade and dappled sunlight. However, some varieties tend to one or another extreme. For instance, ‘Perle von Bottrop’ prefers part shade to full shade whereas ‘Giant Cowslip’ prefers part sun to full sun. Most mature plants will do very well in temperatures between 12.5-25°C. “Primulas are great naturalised (particularly species) or grown in pots,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “In my experience, pots can be placed in full sun positions because, in early spring, the intensity of the sunlight is unlikely to be a problem. “If planting out afterwards, make sure to bear in mind that they will need more shade in the summer months and plant accordingly.” Feeding Primroses do not need fertiliser in British conditions particularly if the soil is rich, organic, and is amended with humus or organic manure. That said, cultivars and series varieties will benefit from fertilising. Popular ‘Danova’ Series Primroses are Easy to Grow You can fertilise once every fortnight from the start to the close of blooming season. Do so by lightly sprinkling a general fertiliser at the base of the plant. Common Problems As Primula Primrose varieties are so numerous and disparate, their resistance or susceptibility to pests varies quite widely. Though they are healthy plants in general, quite a number of pests may attack them. These include slugs, aphids, vine weevil, eelworms, leafhoppers and glasshouse red spider mite. The diseases that can affect these plants are primula brown core, grey mould, and leaf spot.
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This Is How To Grow And Care For Hardy Geraniums According To Nursery Growers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Geraniums vs Pelargoniums Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Geraniums Planting Geranium Plant Care Exceptional Geranium Properties References The virtues of Hardy Geraniums are too numerous to reel off but suffice it to say that there must be solid reasons for these plants to be the United Kingdom’s favourite perennials. Very many varieties are prolific and bloom for months on end, and the simple flowers exude a genuine charm all their own with their differing and delicate venations lending blooms a graceful refinement. “I love hardy geraniums,” shares Rosy Hardy, Vice President of the RHS. “They are the most useful plants you could grow in a garden because they are either dwarf, medium or tall and come in a good colour range. The only place you can’t grow them is a pond. “If you’ve got a hardy geranium and need to fill a spot in a border, they are perfect.” “Geraniums are super easy to grow and fuss-free and suitable for gardeners of all experience levels,” says Suzie, who opened her nursery in 2018. “They require minimal maintenance and are also generally pest and disease resistant.” The Geranium genus has a vast habitat that spans all climatic zones, yet this remarkable range is exceeded by the popularity of this plant. And for good reasons: a majority of varieties are perennial, as many are hardy, a large number bloom all summer long, they are so easy to grow, and they boast truly delightful flowers! Overview Botanical Name Geranium Common Name(s) Cranesbill Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H6-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Rounded, 5 petalled flowers in various hues When To Sow January, February, November, December Flowering Months April, May, June, July, August, September “Geraniums come from all over the globe so it’s possible to find a Geranium for almost any part of the garden, whether that’s in sun or shade, or wet or dry soil, and most situations in between,” shares Gary, who has experience gardening on opposite sides of the world. “There are ones that grow up to four feet and ones that only grow to six inches. There are types that can pretty much give year-round interest and there are also types suitable for containers. “The vast majority of them are hardy down to -15°C.” The Geranium genus includes 358 species according to Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, and many more cultivars with almost all the in-demand varieties being perennials.1 These plants are also called ‘Cranesbills’ because the seed capsule of many species brings to mind a crane’s bill. These capsules exhibit one of the more interesting and dynamic Botanical mechanisms related to seed dispersion. When the seeds within a capsule are mature, the capsule bursts open and throws out the seeds. Geraniums also possess other traits that are exciting, especially for hobbyist gardeners. Geraniums vs Pelargoniums Geraniums belong to Family Geraniaceae as do the closely-related Pelargoniums.2 Originally the species of both genera were classed together in Genus Geranium. Pelargonium capitatum Although they were separated and reclassified into genera Geranium and Pelargonium over two centuries ago, plants of the latter genus are sometimes still considered and called Geraniums.3 As a result, to differentiate between the two, Geraniums proper are often called ‘Hardy Geraniums’ or ‘True Geraniums’. “If you’d prefer to use the name Geranium for Pelargonium, the RHS recommends referring to them as ‘tender Geraniums’ to distinguish them from true hardy Geraniums,” adds Colin Skelly. This article does not cover Pelargonium. Habitat & Growing Conditions Geranium is so varied a genus and its species cover an abundance of regions and biomes that they are found in every conceivable habitat except the tundra. Some species grow at sea level while others thrive on high mountains. For example, G. robertianum flourishes in coastal areas while G. nodosum does equally well on alpine slopes. Some species prefer open fields and full sun while others prefer woodland shade though it is safe to say that part sun suits most species very well. These plants make do with any type of soil so long as it is not waterlogged or overly alkaline. As the genus is so varied and as its species inhabit just about every climatic zone and biome, species’ RHS Hardiness Ratings vary widely. In the UK the native species are found in meadows (Geranium pratense), woodlands (Geranium sylvaticum), littoral regions and even on sand dunes (Geranium sanguineum). How To Grow Geraniums First, keep in mind that Geraniums are unusually easy to propagate yourself, and that too in three different ways: G. pyrenaicum Plants can be propagated by division and also by cuttings. Seeds are simple to obtain by harvesting seed capsules – although the seedlings may not be true to the parent cultivar. Geraniums are among the most widely available of plants. All the established varieties are available at brick-and-mortar garden centres and also from online retailers, with a few varieties sold by dozens of sellers. G. pratense Both potted plants and seed packets are equally easy to find. Planting Considering the considerable range in varieties’ heights and spreads, and the fact that they come in all habits and forms, just where a Geranium variety is best planted strongly depends on its characteristics. Consider that G. ‘Mavis Simpson’ grows to all of 20cm, if even that, and is mat-forming, while G. ‘Orion’ is over five times as tall and with a bushy habit. G. ‘Orion’ Selecting the right plant for the right location is one of the most important care factors according to Suzie. “If you select a plant for a sunny spot that is better suited to a shady spot, it will grow, but it will not thrive. “Fortunately, there are hundreds of different geraniums to choose from, so it’s very easy to find something suitable for every corner of your garden.” Most varieties make for superlative beds, borders, and edges. The few mat-forming varieties are excellent choices for attractive groundcover while clumping varieties provide splashes of colour in rock gardens. A majority of Geranium varieties are of that intermediate height such that in formal gardens they can be matched with taller plants like rhododendrons to set them off, yet can also be used behind smaller ornamentals like pansies. Plants of this varied and versatile genus can be displayed in a planter on the patio, in pots on a parapet, in hanging baskets on a pergola and much more. Geranium Plant Care “If you’re looking to grow Hardy Geraniums for the first time, you really would do well to find an easier plant to grow,” says Gary. Among the most unfussy and undemanding of flowering plants, Geraniums will grow in just about any soil and with next to no care. G. cinereum ‘Ballerina’ (Courtesy of The Hardy Geranium Nursery) Though this is a simple statement of fact, it should not be misconstrued to suggest that you may neglect your Geranium. For healthy, long-lived plants that adorn your garden with an abundance of blooms for the longest possible flowering season, here are some simple tips: Soil Requirements Plant Geraniums in any fertile loam mix that contains humus or organic manure. If planting in a pot use a peat-free potting compost or a loam-based compost such as John Innes no. 2. If planting in the soil, geraniums suit many soil conditions but should have good drainage and the ideal soil pH range for most varieties is from 6.0 to 6.5 – Slightly Acidic. Sunlight & Temperature A majority of Geraniums prefer full sun to part sun whereas some prefer full shade to part shade. A few very sporting varieties, such as G. phaeum var. phaeum ‘Langthorns Blue’ and G. ‘Melinda’, will flourish in full sun through full shade! Geranium x magnificum Most Geraniums will grow well where they get full sun until around 1PM and shade or dappled sunlight thereafter. In the United Kingdom, temperature ranges are not a concern for Hardy Geraniums, although they may wilt in prolonged dry weather in sandy soil. Harvesting Seeds “Geraniums can tend to self-seed, some more than others,” explains Gary when discussing some of the drawbacks of growing geraniums in the garden. This can be a great thing if you want your geraniums to self-propagate, but not so great if you like a bit more control in your outdoor spaces. “Luckily, this can largely be avoided by going for sterile hybrids.” Keep in mind that it is particularly straightforward to collect Geranium seeds by harvesting the capsules. G. robertianum To plant seeds, nudge them into the earth and cover with a thin sprinkling of soil. Water well and then continue to water every two days or so, so as to keep the soil moist as the seedling matures, tapering off as the plant grows. Common Problems For the most part, Geraniums are healthy low-care plants. However, now and again a plant can be attacked by vine weevil, geranium sawfly, or capsid bug. The diseases that Geraniums have a particular susceptibility to are limited to downy mildew and powdery mildew. “Encouraging good air circulation between plants, watering early in the day and avoiding watering the leaves will help to prevent powdery mildew,” advises Suzie. Exceptional Geranium Properties The visual appeal of these plants begin with the foliage. Be the leaves a medium or dark shade of green, the colour is almost always rich and deep with some having a shiny lamina. What is more, come autumn, many varieties’ leaves become tinged with red, bronze, or golden-yellow or even change colour entirely. G. maculatum The leaves also have a pretty shape, being oval to round, and palmately lobed, often deeply. As it happens, in a show of sympathy and artistic symmetry with the lobed leaves, many Geranium flowers’ petals are notched at the distal borders, some quite deeply. The lovely five-petalled flowers are bowl-shaped, salver-shaped, or flatly disk-shaped. Their colours fall in the red-to-blue spectrum with the hue ranging from very pale to vibrantly intense, from a pinkish-white to brilliant violet. Geranium x magnificum A feature typical of Geranium flowers is the well-known delicate radial veining along the petals. To cap off their attractions, a majority of Geraniums draw bees and butterflies. Geraniums are one of the most popular plants for beds and borders but they also make wonderful container plants for the windowsill and balcony. “You can pop geraniums in a pot, they don’t get huge and they bulk up quickly,” shares Lee Burkhill, an award-winning Garden Designer. “These plants can tolerate abuse, so start with the basics and once you get that right, you can start to bulk up on your collections.” Considering that a majority produce blooms for the whole summer with a significant number extending their flowering season deep into autumn, with other varieties getting the show underway sometime in spring, it is no wonder that Geraniums are the United Kingdom’s favourite perennial plants. References 1. Geranium Tourn. ex L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:327764-2#children 2. Geraniaceae Juss. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001521-2 3. Mentary, L. (2020, December 28). The Difference Between Geraniums and Pelargoniums. Rozanne and Friends®. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.geraniumrozanne.com/geraniums-and-pelargoniums/
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