Growing
These 20 Perennial (Cold Hardy) Herbs Should Be A Cornerstone Of Any Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Bay 2) Bergamot 3) Catnip 4) Chives 5) French Tarragon 6) Hyssop 7) Lavender 8) Lemon Balm 9) Lovage 10) Oregano 11) Mints 12) Parsley 13) Roman Chamomile 14) Rosemary 15) Salad Burnet 16) Sage 17) Sorrel 18) Sweet Cicely 19) Thyme 20. Winter Savory References There is a huge range of perennial herbs that can be very useful additions to your garden. ‘Perennial herbs’ is a term that can be used to apply to any herbaceous plants (in other words: plants that do not have woody stems above the ground). However, in this article we consider herbs in the sense of plants that have culinary uses, often with aromatic properties. All will be very useful while in growth, and will also be useful in your kitchen: 1) Bay BOTANICAL NAME: LAURUS NOBILIS HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Bay laurel is a slow-growing evergreen shrub or small tree, H4 hardy in the UK. It can grow in full sun or light/dappled shade. A key ingredient in a French ‘bouquet garni’, bay leaves are used as a flavouring for soups, stews and other recipes. It will thrive in most soils which are fertile, and relatively moisture-retentive yet free draining. 2) Bergamot BOTANICAL NAME: MONARDA DIDYMA HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS This perennial herb (also known as Monarda didyma, bee balm or Oswego tea) is native to North America. However, it is also a useful and decorative herb to consider growing in UK gardens. It is H5 hardy in the UK and is not frost tender. Notable for attracting pollinators and other beneficial insects, bergamot is also used for culinary purposes. Leaves and the tips of the shoots are used in salads or drinks and it is famously used to impart an ‘Earl Grey’ flavour to China tea. 3) Catnip BOTANICAL NAME: NEPETA CATARIA HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Another excellent attractive perennial herb is Nepeta cataria. Catnip is of course best known for its intoxicating effect on felines, but the leaves can also be used as an aromatic flavouring in salads.1 They have a mint-like flavour. Catnip can also be used to make herbal tea. This hardy perennial is also great for visual appeal, wildlife attraction, and companion planting for pest control. Catnip is fully hardy in the UK. 4) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: ALLIUM SCHOENOPRASUM HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Chives are a well known culinary herb in the onion (allium) family. They are excellent companion plants for a range of other crops, helping to repel, confuse or distract a range of pest species. When in flower, chives also look pretty and attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to your garden. Chives can be chopped into a salad, or used as a pot herb, to impart a mild onion flavour. Chives can grow in sun or light shade, in a rich, moist but free-draining soil. Chives are hardy to H6 in the UK. 5) French Tarragon BOTANICAL NAME: Artemisia dracunculus ‘French’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: AUTUMN MONTHS French tarragon, said to be superior in taste to Russian tarragon, is another well known culinary herb, and another perennial that can return each year in areas of the UK H4 and above.2 The leaves and shoots impart an anise flavour. French tarragon is usually grown in full sun but is H4 hardy and suited to growing in Britain. 6) Hyssop BOTANICAL NAME: Hyssopus officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS This evergreen shrub is another great wildlife-friendly perennial to consider. Hyssop used to be a more common culinary herb than it is today, but it is well worth adding to your garden.3 Leaves and young shoot tips are used as a pot herb, imparting a flavour that combines mint and sage. “One of my favourite herbs, Hyssop is worth growing as an ornamental plant in its own right, but is also a fantastic plant for pollinators,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Easy to grow, it is an underused herb compared to other Mediterranean herbs.” Hyssop attracts a range of wildlife and can be useful as a companion plant in your garden. 7) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Lavender is a well known ornamental shrub, prized for its beauty and fragrance. But what you might not realise is that leaves, petals and flowering tips can be used as a pot herb in moderation. The flavour is strong and so lavender is usually only used in small quantities, but it could be an interesting addition to your culinary repertoire. Fresh or dried flowers are sometimes also used to make herbal tea. 8) Lemon Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Melissa officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Hardy to UK H7 and not frost tender, Melissa officinalis, lemon balm, is another of the great perennial herbs to grow in the UK. Bees and other insects love it, and it is notable for its delicious lemon flavour. It is also good for organic pest control and is said to be a useful dynamic accumulator plant.4 9) Lovage BOTANICAL NAME: Levisticum officinale HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A perennial alternative to celery, lovage is a herb with a long history of culinary uses. This is another hardy herb that will return each year in UK H6 and above. It is often used as a pot herb to impart a celery-like or yeasty flavour. Young stems can also be used like celery in salads or cooked recipes. 10) Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Origanum ssp. are also excellent perennial herbs that return each year. Both are notable culinary herbs, of course, and are also useful as wildlife attractants and companion plants. Sweet marjoram, O. majorana, and O. x majoricum (hardy marjoram) are H3 hardy. Oregano or ‘Pot marjoram’, O. vulgare, is H6 hardy. 11) Mints BOTANICAL NAME: MENTHA HARDINESS RATING: MOSTLY H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS There is a huge range of different mints that are great options to consider when choosing perennial herbs in the UK. Peppermints, spearmints, and many mints with different and unusual flavours can be considered. Mints can be very vigorous and can tend to take over garden spaces if left unchecked – but planting them in pots can prevent their spread. In some cases, you will want them to spread, as they provide excellent ground cover. Mints are, like many herbs on this list, great for wildlife and pest management in an organic garden. 12) Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Though parsley is technically a biennial rather than a perennial (completing its lifecycle over two years) it is worthwhile considering it within a perennial herb garden as it will often self-seed readily. So like the other perennials on this list, it can often remain in your garden year after year. 13) Roman Chamomile BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaemelum nobile HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Unlike German chamomile, Roman chamomile is a perennial herb. It is evergreen, in leaf all year and is hardy to H7 in the UK. Young sprigs are used as a flavouring in beers, and the flowers are used to make teas. 14) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SPRING / SUMMER MONTHS Rosemary is another well known culinary herb that will remain in your garden over a number of years. It is an evergreen shrub, with needle-like leaves which are used as a pot herb and in moderation in a range of different recipes. Rosemary is another great perennial to consider in a wildlife-friendly, sustainable garden. It is hardy to H4 and is not frost tender. 15) Salad Burnet BOTANICAL NAME: Sanguisorba minor HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Salad burnet, Sanguisorba, is an evergreen perennial that is H6 hardy. It has young shoots and leaves which can be eaten in salads, used as a garnish, or used in cooked recipes as a pot herb. Salad burnet can also be used in herbal teas. 16) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Sage (Salvia officinalis) is an evergreen shrub hardy to H5. This is of course a very common culinary herb, which can be used in a wide range of dishes. Other salvias can also be very useful perennial herbs to grow in your garden. 17) Sorrel BOTANICAL NAME: Rumex acetosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A number of sorrels, or Rumex ssp. are also very useful perennial herbs of perennial vegetables. Sorrels have a lovely lemony flavour, and can be used in mixed salads, to make soups, or to impart flavour to a range of recipes. Sorrel is H7 hardy in the United Kingdom, and leaves can often be harvested in small quantities throughout the year. 18) Sweet Cicely BOTANICAL NAME: Myrrhis odorata HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Another great perennial herb, Sweet cicely or anise is an aniseed-scented plant whose leaves are often used as a herb in salads or cooked recipes. There are also culinary uses for the seeds and roots of the plant. Sweet cicely is related to fennel, which is also a useful perennial herb to grow for an aniseed-like flavour. 19) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A number of thymes, including Thymus vulgaris (common thyme), are also very useful perennial herbs to grow in your garden. This shrub is notable as a companion crop for a range of common edibles, and is another great herb for attracting wildlife in your garden. It is H5 hardy and the leaves can be used fresh or dried. Cultivated hybrids such as lemon thyme, for example, are also well worth considering. 20. Winter Savory BOTANICAL NAME: Satureja montana HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Last but not least, winter savory is another of the great perennial herbs to consider. This is an attractive plant, evergreen and hardy to H5 in the UK. The leaves have a hot and peppery flavour, and are often used with beans, or as a garnish for salads. The growing plant also attracts a range of beneficial insects, and is said to repel a range of pests. References 1. Fries, W. (2021, May 8). Truth About Catnip. WebMD. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pets.webmd.com/cats/catnip-effects-on-cats#1 2. Mueller, C. (2009, January). The Three Tarragons: French, Russian and Mexican. Texas AgriLife Extension Service,. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/newsletters/hortupdate/2009/jan09/Tarragon.html 3. MasterClass. (2021b, August 26). How to Use Culinary Hyssop: 8 Ways to Cook With Hyssop. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-to-use-culinary-hyssop 4. Melissa officinalis. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=Melissa+officinalis
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How To Grow Platycodon For Their Elegant 'Puffed Up' Balloon Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Platycodon Where To Grow Plant Care Common Problems References This plant’s buds are amusing, to say the least, as they perfectly resemble puffed-up mini balloons. But the open flower is so very different with its elegant trumpet shape and the face-on five-point star display in rich, deep purple tones. And so, as bud or as flower, it will charm your visitors and trigger a conversation. Just before the bud blossoms into a flower it looks for all the world like a puffed-up balloon just crying out to be popped (not that we recommend it). Indeed, not infrequently a Balloon Flower bud will resemble a hot-air balloon in miniature. Opened up, this merry flower is elegantly trumpet-shaped and viewed face-on is essentially a five-point star. Adjacent petals are joined at about the halfway point. Overview Botanical Name Platycodon Common Name(s) Balloon Flower Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Far East Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Open, bell-shaped flowers When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune October The Balloon Flower, a member of the Platycodon genus, is a long-lived deciduous perennial that is native to East Asia.1 Platycodon is one of those rare genera that have a species count of one. The sole species member of Genus Platycodon is P. grandiflorus and there are several cultivars of the species. The genus is a member of the Campanula family which includes the Campanula or Bell Flower. The mother species produces flowers of a rich purple hue with a delicate filigree of veins on the petals. Though the Balloon Flower has made some serious inroads in gardens in the northern and eastern United States, it is far from common in the UK. “Playcodon grandiflorus makes a great perennial plant in the UK,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It combines well with classic cottage garden plants although it can be used for multiple styles of planting, as well as being versatile in terms of soil pH (as long it is free-draining).” This reliable perennial will not only bring brilliant splashes of colour to your garden in that transition period from the dog days of summer into autumn, it will make for an interesting topic of conversation because of its relative ‘newness’ and also for the enormous and varied cultural significance Platycodon has in Japan and the Koreas. Habitat & Growing Conditions The Chinese Bellflower grows freely in the fields, meadows, and steppes of north-eastern Russia, eastern China, Japan, and the Koreas.2 In Japan and the Koreas these plants are a common sight in cottage gardens and farmyards. They tend to grow in sunny locations or part-shade locations. They are not found in heavy or wet soils but they grow in soil pH ranging from Moderately Acidic to Slightly Alkaline. Native to a relatively small swath of land, this robust plant adapts to all temperate and sub-tropical regions. A large majority of varieties are hardy to Zone H5. How To Grow Platycodon You may have to visit a few nurseries and garden centres to find one that sells potted plants. Platycodon seeds are available fairly widely, though not in a rich selection. Where the Balloon Flower is concerned, in the UK you will have to make do with limited varieties. However, if you have one Platycodon, you can get more. First, these plants are fairly reliable self-seeders though not aggressively so. You could also let the flowers dry out on the plant and then collect and store seeds though be mindful that cultivars usually will not grow true. Growing From Seed Though you can start Chinese Bellflowers indoors in small pots about six weeks before the last projected frost, in most regions of the UK it is a better idea to grow them outdoors from the off. Anytime in spring, after there is no chance of a frost, drop seeds on the soil but do not cover them because they need light to germinate. If you are concerned about birds picking up the seed then cover the seeds with a bare sprinkling of soil or protect them with garden mesh; water the seeds well. As the seeds sprout and grow, water them moderately such that the soil usually stays moist but is not overly wet. Balloon Flower’s water requirements are moderate. Propagating From Cuttings These plants can be grown quite reliably from stem cuttings. In late spring or early summer cut off about 10cm of the stem. Trim the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Dip the base of the stem in water, and apply some rooting hormone or dip it in honey and then in cinnamon. Plant the cutting in damp soil of the type described above, amended with potting soil near the surface. Water moderately so as to keep the soil moist. Where To Grow As mentioned, Platycodon is tailor-made for borders, edges, and mixed shrubberies. However, its proclivity of growing in thick clumps makes it a great choice for attractive groundcover. This deciduous plant tends to rise in mid-to-late spring; on the other hand, in the autumn it provides colour through both its flowers and its foliage. It is this latter feature that makes dwarf varieties such as ‘Baby Blue’ and ‘Zwerg’ ideal for rockeries. ’Shell Pink,’ a mid-height variety with pink flowers is a top choice for a front border; the tall ‘Hakone’ cultivars in blue and white are equally fine choices for a rear border. However, each of these varieties may need staking, otherwise pinch the growing tip or cut it early on so that it is less lanky and more bushy. Many Balloon Flower varieties are excellent choices for potted plants and mixed containers for the patio and the porch. Plant Care In the UK these plants should be grown in full sun but part shade will do perfectly well. Soil Requirements Platycodon should be grown in a rich loam with little to no clay but with some organic humus or compost. Soil should drain very well – they grow best in soil with pH between 5.6 and 7.3. Overwintering Flowers should be deadheaded. After the plant has died down, cut off the withered foliage but do not cut the stem down to the ground. Before winter sets in, apply a good layer of organic mulch. Reduce the frequency and amount of water. Then, in spring, remove the mulch after there is no chance of frost. This plant tends to rise later in spring than other deciduous perennials. Take care not to disturb Platycodon’s fleshy roots in any way as they are quite delicate. An application of a balanced slow-release fertiliser once in late spring would be beneficial. You will invariably see the taller cultivars getting floppy, especially in late summer to early autumn. It’s not that the plant has gone leggy; it is simply a trait of the taller varieties. You can pinch the leader or growing tip to encourage bushy growth early on, otherwise stake the plant. Pruning Only the taller cultivars need pruning, especially those whose heights are significantly greater than their spreads, such as ‘Blaue Glocke’ and ‘Fuji Blue’. Either keep pruning such varieties judiciously to attain a compact form or pinch the leader or growing tip. Common Problems Platycodon are remarkably pest-resistant and disease-free. Snails and slugs like this plant so be vigilant for these pesky critters which are less of a danger and more of a nuisance. References 1. Platycodon. (n.d.). Pacific Bulb Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Platycodon 2. Platycodon. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:5791-1
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Almond Trees Can Be Tricky To Grow - Here Are Some Important Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview A Note On Ornamental Types Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Almond Trees Harvesting Almond Trees Pruning Almond Trees Common Problems This may come as a surprise to some but the almond tree, originating in the Middle East, can be grown in quite a few regions of England. Though an almond tree is certainly more of a challenge to grow in English gardens than, say an apple tree or a cherry tree, think of those fragrant pink blossoms in spring and an easy harvest of garden-grown almonds! We may think of almonds as nuts along with hazels, walnuts, and pistachios. What a surprise, then, that the almond’s kith and kin are not any of those nuts, but, peaches, plums, and apricots! All of these fall within the genus Prunus and are called ’Stone Fruits’. Though a few species of wild almonds exist, Prunus dulcis is the only domesticated or cultivated almond species. Almost all almond trees commercially grown for the nut are Prunus dulcis cultivars. As for calling the almond a ‘nut’ – this is not strictly correct. It is the kernel or seed of a drupe – a type of fruit or pod. Overview Botanical Name Prunus dulcis Common Name(s) Almond Tree Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area Middle East Hardiness Rating H5/H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Spring blossom When To Sow February, March, November Flowering Months March, April Harvesting Months September, October When To Prune March, July P. dulcis, a deciduous tree, typically grows to 4 to 6m with the crown having a similar spread. The leaves are lanceolate and of a rich, deep green shade, turning yellow and orange in the autumn. Sizes vary quite a bit and can reach 12cm. In spring, clusters of small pale pink, sometimes white, bowl-shaped flowers emerge, attracting bees and birds as well as appreciative human eyes. The pleasant blossoms give way to the fuzzy taupe-green drupes that enclose almonds. In autumn the hulls will start to split, signalling that it is time to begin your almond harvest. An almond tree does not need to be grown solely for the almonds. Depending on the variety (and how you prune it) it will provide some summer shade, letting through dappled sunlight. And regardless of variety, this ornamental tree will provide pretty foliage with yellow and orange autumn colour, delightfully pretty blossoms in spring, and a rich fragrance to enliven the garden. You could almost consider the almonds a bonus. A Note On Ornamental Types And as it happens, there is such a thing as an almond tree without almonds! Dwarf flowering almond trees are small ornamental trees that produce a profusion of scented blooms. However, they do not produce almonds (or any edible fruit, drupe or seed). This article is primarily about ‘real’ almond trees. Whether you opt for a drupe-producing almond tree or an ornamental flowering variety, it must be said that these trees are prone to their fair share of pests and diseases. Habitat & Growing Conditions Where almond trees are concerned, there are a few requirements which are rather hard-and-fast. These trees are intolerant of waterlogged or poorly-drained soils; at the same time regular watering in spring and summer is necessary. They grow in light, loose soils, and are averse to clay soils. Hot, dry summers such as those of South Asia are ideal for almond trees. While almond trees are hardy, any spring frost is usually extremely damaging to the buds. P. dulcis is hardy to H5. Some cultivars are hardy to H6. How To Grow Almond Trees Almond trees are native to South Asia and the Mediterranean, and they grow best in the climates of those regions – which are not shared by the United Kingdom! The best regions to grow almond trees in the UK are Southern England but not anywhere close to the coast, and East Anglia. Spring frosts are the bane of almond trees whereas hottish, dry summers are a boon. Sourcing Saplings An almond sapling or young tree is not something that you can walk into your neighbourhood garden centre and buy. You will need to look for specialist stone fruit nurseries online. Be careful that you do not buy a dwarf flowering, non-fruit-bearing, almond tree (unless, of course, that is what you want). Pollination Except for a handful of self-fertile varieties, almond trees are not self-pollinating. Therefore, if you grow P. dulcis you will need two or more trees, preferably three or four, of different cultivars for a reliable crop of almonds. The trees should be spaced at 6-7m. However, quite a few self-fertile varieties have been developed in Europe and California over the past decade or two and these are the best options for the home gardener. The European ones include ‘Ingrid’, ‘Robijn’, ‘Sultane’, and ‘Princess’. The American ones include ‘All-in-One’, ‘Independence’, ‘Shasta’, and ‘Garden Prince’. The first three have been developed for America’s large-scale commercial growers. ‘Independence’ If you want to plant a single tree, ‘Robijn’ and ‘Ingrid’ are great choices for the UK. Almond trees are seldom grown from seed for the home garden; they are usually bought as saplings or very young trees, and transplanted. They bear almonds in two or three years from planting. Skilled green-fingers can propagate almond trees by budding and grafting, though. Soil Requirements The soil should be deeply laid, not overly-compacted, and it should be a sand-based loam with little or no clay. A little organic humus or manure mixed in would be beneficial. The soil should drain very well. Soil pH should be in the Slightly Acidic to Slightly Alkaline (6.1 to 7.8) range. Planting The planting hole should be sufficiently deep and a little wider than deep and the site should enjoy full sun. The April to May timeframe is most suitable for planting. Plant the sapling with care, handling the root system very gently if at all. Make sure that the roots are not matted or stuck and are spread out naturally. Plant the sapling to the same level that it had been planted in the container, or at the nursery or wherever you had obtained it from. It may prove helpful to mark the planting line in advance with marker or chalk. Fill in the hole such that the soil is compressed but not loose nor overly-compacted. Watering & Fertilising As you begin to fill the hole, slowly water the roots with about a pail of water as you continue filling the hole. After the hole is filled and the soil compressed, water it again with one more pail. Even very wet soil, let alone waterlogged soil, is unsuitable for almond trees as it encourages fungal and bacterial diseases via the soil. Frequent watering in spring and summer is a ‘must’ to ensure a profusion of blossoms and a bountiful crop. “I always have an eye to the future when planting trees,” says Colin Skelly, RHS Master Horticulturist. “Harvesting and storing rainwater is the sustainable option for growing almonds as the UK will become warmer (good for almond trees) but also drier (clearly bad for almonds and our water levels).” Freshly-planted, young trees need 6-7cm of water daily be it from your hosepipe or the skies. Mature trees need about the same amount of water every three days or so. Older, established trees need less water. The tree’s water needs taper off in autumn and winter. Every spring, fertilise the almond tree from trunk to drip-line – the edge of the canopy. One of the best types of fertiliser for almond trees is a slow-release 12-12-6. Harvesting Almond Trees The signal to begin harvesting is when the hulls start to split, exposing the shell. For almost all varieties, this will happen in the August to September timeframe. How soon you harvest your almonds after the hulls start splitting depends to a great extent on the threat from insects and birds. Ideally you should wait until about 75% of the drupes have split open but if you see or know that you will lose your crop (to insects and birds) you will have to harvest soon after you observe the drupes splitting open. An almond tree is one of the easiest stone fruit trees to harvest. Lay plastic or canvas sheets around the tree, vigorously shake the trunk, and voila: garden-fresh almonds! There will be some stubborn ones that refuse to be shaken off; to get these down on your sheet, simply use a pole to knock the branches or gently push the fruit off. It is imperative that fresh almonds properly be dried before storing else mould can form on them. The hulls must be removed (but not the shells). The unshelled almonds should be spread out on a clean, dry surface, and where sunlight can fall on them to accelerate the drying process. You may have to protect the almonds with mesh to prevent insects from getting at them. When the almonds are thoroughly dry they can be stored in breathable bags. However, one further step that is often taken is to put the almonds (in a bag) in the freezer for about ten days so that any worms and small insects are killed. Pruning Almond Trees Almond trees should be pruned from the very outset to maintain a desirable shape which, in turn, has an effect on the health of the tree and the production of almonds. Almond trees should be pruned in November and December. Be wary of pruning them earlier or later. Pruning fruit trees is a skilled horticultural task. What is provided here is a mere guideline. As a general rule, self-pollinating almond trees cultivated for home gardens need to be pruned to a lesser extent than the ‘usual’ varieties. Like most fruit trees, almond trees are usually pruned into an open-centre vase form or shape. This is a three-to-four year project – subsequent ‘maintenance pruning’ is, of course, desirable. The objective is to reduce dense and wayward growth, favour the strongest limbs, and to increase air circulation above and around the tree and also increase the penetration of sunlight. Air and sunlight are critical factors in preventing brown rot and other diseases. In the first year (after planting), the leader is cut and four to five limbs, more or less equidistant and with an upward taper, are retained while almost all others are removed. These will be the primary scaffold of the tree. Do not prune or shorten these scaffold limbs in the second or third year. In the second year prune about 25% of the new growth while choosing a few more limbs for the secondary scaffold. In following years continue to prune about 20% of the growth. This should be maintenance pruning that removes dead and diseased branches, and problem branches. Use pruning implements that are very sharp and sterilised – pruning wounds are a gateway for canker and other infections. Common Problems Now for the bad part. Almond trees are susceptible to their fair share of pests and diseases, which depend on the cultivar, the siting and climate, pruning, watering, and – of course – the presence of microbes. To begin with, diseases include crown gall, peach leaf curl, and bacterial canker. These diseases can be avoided by, respectively, employing correct and gentle planting technique, pruning to an open-centre vase form, and using sharp and sterilised pruning implements. Infrequently an almond tree may be afflicted by verticillium wilt, which is caused by a soil-borne fungus. Unfortunately, this disease cannot be treated. Another disease to be vigilant for is almond hull rot which may lead to a consequent infestation by navel orange worms. The pests that may attack almond trees include aphids, scale insects, and red spider mite. Thankfully, unlike verticillium wilt, these pests can readily be controlled.
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Pruning Requirements For A Plum Tree Are Different To Other Fruits - Here's Why
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune A Plum Tree? When To Prune A Plum Tree Maintenance Pruning Pruning For Shape & Form Pyramid-Shaped Plums Fan Shaped Plums Cordon Or Columnar Plums Renovating An Old Mature Plum Tree Fruit trees are great plants for a relatively low-maintenance garden. Often, once established, they will require little care, but pruning is one important job to take care of. Learning when and how to prune the different trees and other plants in your garden is important, since for many species, pruning correctly can help keep them healthy and productive over time. Plum trees are a little different to apples, and many other common trees when it comes to their pruning requirements – so here is a guide to help you work out what you should do to your plum tree, and when. Why Prune A Plum Tree? ‘Victoria’ plum tree If you have a productive plum tree in your garden, you may wonder why you need to prune it at all. You might be thinking – “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it”. But if you fail to prune a plum tree, you may find that issues begin to creep in – and your productive plum may develop problems and become less productive over time. Plum trees need to be pruned for a number of reasons, including to: Remove dead, damaged or diseased material. Avoid overcrowding which can lead to damage. In order to make sure sunlight reaches fruit which develops on the tree and to allow good light penetration through the crown of the tree. Keep the tree in a desired shape and/or to a desired size. Renovate an older tree and stimulate bare wood areas to new growth. When To Prune A Plum Tree No matter your reasons for pruning a plum tree, and regardless of what you hope to achieve, it is important to prune at the right time. Plums should be pruned in late spring, or over the summer months, and not in autumn or over the winter. Since many other trees are best pruned over the dormant period, this is one thing that sets plum and other Prunus trees apart. Spring is typically the best time to prune young trees, and it is best to prune established trees in the middle of summer. The reason why it is not a good idea to leave the pruning of plum trees until colder weather arrives is that pruning during cold and wet periods can make it more likely that disease will take hold. Plums pruned in autumn or winter are more likely to become infected with silver leaf disease. This is a fungal infection that can kill off branches, or even kill the tree altogether in extreme cases. Maintenance Pruning If your plum tree is in a standard or bush form, then pruning will generally only be light, for general maintenance. A maintenance prune will, first of all, involve checking over the tree, and looking for the “Three D’s” – removing any material that is Dead, Damaged or Diseased. You will also remove any branches which are rubbing against one another, and any that are unbalancing or disrupting the visual appearance of the tree’s form. You may also remove branches to open up the centre of a tree a little more to let the sunlight through, but pruning will generally be fairly light. One other thing to note is that on grafted trees (most fruit trees are generally grafted – with a scion grafted onto a rootstock) you may find suckers coming from the rootstock. These, you will also want to remove. Pruning For Shape & Form Plum trees can also be shaped into specific forms. Where this is the case, the pruning job will be slightly more complex, as you will prune not just for general maintenance, but to maintain the shape and form. Plum trees can be: Small and Pyramid-shaped. Fan trained. Columnar or cordoned. Pyramid-Shaped Plums If you have a pyramid-shaped plum tree, it will typically be kept to between 1.8m and 2.4m (depending on the rootstock that was used). During the first summer, you should wait until July, and then shorten new branches to 20cm, cutting each one above a bud which is facing outwards. Side branches should be cut back to a bud at around 15cm. The central leader should then be trained and tied into the stake. In following years, you should cut back the central leader by two thirds each April, repeating annually until the tree has reached the height optimal for its rootstock. After this, the central leader should be trimmed back each May to keep the tree the same height. Vertical shoots competing with this central leader should be removed in late June. Then, towards the end of July, branch leaders should be pruned to around 20cm, and side branches to around 15cm in length. Fan Shaped Plums If your plum tree is trained into a fan shape against a wall or fence, pruning will be complex at first, but is easy to manage once you have the initial fan shape. The specifics of pruning a fan trained tree will depend on the tree initially purchased, and its stage of growth. For established fan trained plum trees, tie shoots into the framework where there is space to do so. Get rid of shoots growing into the wall or fence, and any that are too crowded – then take back all remaining new shoots to around six leaves. After fruiting, cut back to three leaves to create a spur on which fruits will form next year. Cut out strong upright shoots where these develop on vigorous plum trees entirely if they cannot be tied into the framework. It is also a good idea to ensure that there is new wood but cutting back a couple of older, fruited branches to a vigorous new shoot after harvesting – and to tie that new shoot into the supports in place of that older branch. For plums that are harvested in autumn, it is best to leave replacement pruning of this type until spring. Cordon Or Columnar Plums Cordon or columnar plums are an excellent solution for particularly small spaces. To prune these, once they have reached the desired height, cut back the leader to around 1.5cm each May. Established cordon plums should then be pruned in July/August. Cut off the shoot tip of each lateral spur to leave around 6 leaves. After the harvest, prune back to three leaves to leave the fruiting spurs. Renovating An Old Mature Plum Tree If you have a large and neglected mature plum tree in your garden, you may wish to prune a little more vigorously to reduce size and improve the health and productivity of the tree. But it is important to undertake renovations slowly, over a number of years. Pruning back a plum tree too hard can do more harm than good, so take things a step at a time. If there is an area of bare wood, pruning to a bud above this area may encourage new growth. It may stimulate buds that have become dormant – though there are no guarantees. You can also notch just above a dormant shoot where you want to encourage growth to try to spark it back to life. Primarily, with a large mature tree, you should aim first and foremost to ensure an open canopy, and to remove dead, damaged or diseased material. “Renovating old fruit trees takes time,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “You can’t bring back a productive structure in a year but over 3-5 years you can often restore vigorous growth and a planned structure. “Begin by removing dead, damaged or diseased branches and then select one or two crossing branches in the centre of the tree. “Over the next few years, you slowly restore a desired structure, being careful to go slowly to avoid the tree responding with lots of vigorous new growth.” Try to prune back to natural forks in the tree to avoid leaving messy stubs. An old gardener once told me that you should prune an old fruit tree to reduce congestion over time, so that a pigeon can fly through between all the branches.
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Each Of These 25 Herbs Will Flower Profusely For Colourful & Aromatic Gardens
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Angelica 2) Agastache 3) Bergamot / Bee Balm 4) Borage 5) Catnip 6) Chamomile 7) Chives 8) Comfrey 9) Dill 10) Dittany 11) Echinacea 12) Feverfew 13) Germander 14) Hyssop 15) Lavender 16) Marjoram 17) Mints 18) Oregano 19) Polemonium (Jacob’s Ladder) 20) Rosemary 21) Salad Burnet 22) Salvias 23) Thymes 24) Verbena 25. Yarrow References A useful and productive herb garden can be beautiful as well as useful, when you choose some of these attractive flowering herbs. These are just 25 flowering herbs that you can sow and grow for colourful gardens and useful culinary yields. These flowering herbs not only look pretty, they are also very useful plants while in active growth and will attract plenty of pollinators and other beneficial insects to your garden. 1) Angelica BOTANICAL NAME: Angelica archangelica HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Angelica archangelica, naturalised in Britain, is an attractive biennial. It grows up to 1.5m in height, forming large umbellifers of pale greenish or white flowers. The plants can self-seed readily, and are great for wildlife-friendly gardens. The leaves are edible raw or cooked, with a liquorice flavour. Stalks and young stems are peeled and used like celery, or crystalised for cake toppings, while the roots and seeds are also sometimes used for flavouring. “Angelica archangelica is not a plant for small gardens, especially if you have moist, fertile soil,” warns Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant who specialises in garden planting. “It will grow large and self-seed freely. In general, herbs will grow larger and looser (and with less flavour) in shadier, fertile, moister conditions than their (for many, but not all, culinary herbs) southern Mediterranean origins.” 2) Agastache BOTANICAL NAME: Agastache HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN A. foeniculum (anise hyssop), and A. rugosa (Korean mint), are two other great flowering herbs to consider. These are also attractive ornamentals and great bee-friendly flowers, as well as providing edible yields for salads or teas. Their leaves have an aniseed-like flavour, the former more delicate than the latter. 3) Bergamot / Bee Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Monarda didyma HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Monarda didyma, also known as bergamot, is well known as a herb for herbal teas. As its other name suggests, it is also fantastic for pollinators in your garden and with its dramatic bright pink or red flowers, it is also a great ornamental addition. It also goes by many other names, including Oswego tea, mountain mint and more. 4) Borage BOTANICAL NAME: Borago officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Borage is an excellent self-seeder and wonderful for growing in a herb garden, in a bed or border, or in amongst the fruits and vegetables in your kitchen garden. It has beautiful blue flowers which impart a cucumber-like taste to drinks or salads. It produces prodigious amounts of nectar for bees and other pollinators. 5) Catnip BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta cataria HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN Catnip is, of course, intoxicating to felines, but it can also be a beautiful addition to your garden. N. cataria can also be a useful herb, with edible mint-like leaves which give it another of its common names: catmint.1 6) Chamomile BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaemelum nobile HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Chamomile is known for making a relaxing tea.2 But the daisy-like flowers can also look very pretty and bring some cherry colour to your garden. 7) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Chives may look like blades of grass at first but when they flower they really enliven your garden. Like other alliums, they bear globes of tiny flowers. These little purple pompoms look lovely and also attract beneficial pollinators, while the smell of the plants may help to repel certain pest species.3 8) Comfrey BOTANICAL NAME: Symphytum officinale HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER Comfrey is a well-known plant amongst organic gardeners. It is often used to chop and drop in perennial planting schemes. Other uses include mulch, adding to the compost heap, or making a liquid plant feed.4 But leave it to flower and it is also a very pretty plant, with pinkish, purple or white flowers which pollinators love. 9) Dill BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Dill is another common culinary herb that can bring colour to your garden when allowed to bloom. It has broad umbels of tiny yellow flowers through the summer months. Of course, dill is useful in the kitchen, with its mild aniseed flavour. 10) Dittany BOTANICAL NAME: Dictamnus albus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Dittany, Dictamnus albus, is a less well-known flowering herb which is also known as the burning bush. A lemon fragranced tea can be made from its dried leaves. Flowers can be pinkish or white in hue and can be dried. 11) Echinacea BOTANICAL NAME: Echinacea purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN Echinacea is a well-known herb and also an attractive flowering plant often grown for its ornamental appeal. The big, bold purple flowers can bring a splash of vibrant colour to your herb garden. 12) Feverfew BOTANICAL NAME: Tanacetum parthenium HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Feverfew is another daisy-like plant that can look very cheerful in a garden. T. parthenium is used to make teas, and dried flowers are sometimes used for flavouring in pastries.5 13) Germander BOTANICAL NAME: Veronica chamaedrys HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER Germanders can look very pretty in your garden. They can have a range of colourful blue, lavender or pinkish flowers. 14) Hyssop BOTANICAL NAME: Hyssopus officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN Hyssopus officinalis is another herb that is extremely useful both for us and for wildlife. It is also a very attractive plant, with spires of purple or blue flowers. The flavour of the pot herb is something akin to a cross between mint and sage. It also has a range of other uses in the garden and inside your home. 15) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Lavender is perhaps one of the best known and best-loved flowering herbs, and with good reason. It produces an abundance of fragrant purple flowers in summer, which many insects, and people, can enjoy. It has a range of uses in the garden and in the home. 16) Marjoram BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum majorana HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Sweet Marjoram, botanically known as Origanum majorum, and hardy marjoram, O. x majoricum, are other culinary herbs which are also attractive and colourful when in flower. Not to be confused with pot marjoram, or oregano, which is also included on this list. 17) Mints BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER There are a huge range of mints that you could grow in your garden – not just for their flavour (and pest repelling properties as a companion plant) but also for their pretty flowers. While this can be beneficial in places, just be warned that mint plants have a tendency to spread prolifically and take over if you give them the chance. 18) Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN Oregano, Origanum vulgare, is also known as pot marjoram, which leads to some confusion over these herbs. But like the marjorams listed above, this common culinary herb also has pretty flowers that make for colourful gardens. 19) Polemonium (Jacob’s Ladder) BOTANICAL NAME: Polemonium caeruleum HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Polemonium, commonly known as Jacob’s ladder, is most commonly grown as an ornamental plant which has pretty purple/blue flowers. 20) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER Rosemary may not always bloom successfully if not given optimal growing conditions, but when it does, the flowers are stunning. These blue/purple blooms stand out against the dark green needle-like foliage and look lovely in a herb garden. 21) Salad Burnet BOTANICAL NAME: Sanguisorba minor HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN The young leaves and shoots of Sanguisorba minor are best harvested for culinary use before the plants come into flower. But leaving the plants to flower brings benefits for wildlife, and can also add a bit more colour to your herb garden with their bright pink pigment. Great burnet can have even more impact, and can also be used for culinary purposes. 22) Salvias BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER From common garden sage to Salvia elegans (pineapple sage), there are a wide range of Salvias that are also useful herbs and attractive ornamental plants, which bring blooms and splashes of vibrant colour to your garden. 23) Thymes BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Many different thymes can also be very attractive, as well as very useful flowering herbs. Their white or purple flowers can look wonderful alongside many of the other flowers mentioned on this list. And of course, like so many others on this list, thyme is great for people and for the pollinators and other wildlife in your garden. 24) Verbena BOTANICAL NAME: Verbena bonariensis HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN Verbena, or vervain, is another herb with attractive flowers. The leaves can be used for tea, and the flowers themselves are sometimes used as a garnish. 25. Yarrow BOTANICAL NAME: Achillea millefolium HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Yarrow is another herb with very pretty flowers, in white or pinkish hues which are in flower from June through to August and sometimes even beyond. There are plenty of attractive flowering herbs to grow for colourful gardens and the above is just a small number of the many plants you could grow. But the above list should give you some ideas, and a place to start when planning and planting your colourful herb garden. References 1. Fries, W. C. (2021, May 8). Truth About Catnip. WebMD. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://pets.webmd.com/cats/catnip-effects-on-cats 2. Srivastava, J. K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with a bright future. Molecular Medicine Reports, 3(6), 895–901. https://doi.org/10.3892/mmr.2010.377 3. Gao, Q., Song, L., Sun, J., Cao, H., Wang, L., Lin, H., & Tang, F. (2018). Repellent action and contact toxicity mechanisms of the essential oil extracted from Chinese chive against Plutella xylostella larvae. Archives of Insect Biochemistry and Physiology, 100(1), e21509. https://doi.org/10.1002/arch.21509 4. Comfrey. (n.d.-b). Garden Organic. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/expert-advice/garden-management/soil/comfrey 5. Tanacetum parthenium: Feverfew. (2006). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Tanacetum+parthenium
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Growing New Zealand Flax: 'Just Remember To Give It Space To Do Its Thing'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Phormiums? Phormium Varieties How To Grow Phormium Planting Phormium Care References Phormiums are two species of herbaceous perennial, grass-like plant, which can really make a dramatic statement in any garden. Though usually used solely as an ornamental plant in the UK, in other areas their long leaf fibres have been used as an economic fibre. In their native range in New Zealand they are known as ‘New Zealand Flax’, and the plants were widely used for textiles by Maori people and by early settlers.1 Phormiums are Phormium tenax and Phormium colensoi; to the Maori people, these are called, respectively, ‘harakeke’ and ‘wharariki’.2 “Phormium tenax is one of my favourite plants that can make a real statement in the garden,” shares Designer Jacquie Felix-Mitchell. “Just remember to give it space to grow and do its thing.” Overview Botanical Name Phormium Common Name(s) New Zealand Flax, Harakeke, Wharariki Plant Type Perennial Native Area New Zealand Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Inconspicuous tubular flowers Plant Out March, April, May Flowering Months July, August Though called ‘flax’, they are not closely connected to Linum usitatissimum, the plant known as ‘flax’ in the Northern Hemisphere. Both of these Phormium species, and the cultivars derived from them, are now widely grown as garden plants in many of the world’s temperate regions. And to a lesser extent, they are also still used for fibre production. Why Grow Phormiums? Phormiums are prized as ornamentals for garden use. These are large and dramatic structural plants which are valued for their striking long and pointed leaves, and the tall flower stems with yellow/green or muted red flowers born on mature plants in summer. Phormium tenax The sharp leaves bend down to create domes of arching foliage. These leaves are often striped or tinged with shades of cream, yellow, red or pink along their margins. Phormiums are drought tolerant once established, and make for a good choice for coastal gardens. They have no appeal for deer and rabbits, so can be used in gardens where these grazers are a problem. “The exotic feel of Phormium in a British garden can also extend to the wildlife visiting them,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Starlings and sparrows are partial to the pollen of the flowers and can cause a second glance because it leaves orange stains on the head of the feeding bird, making it look like you’ve encountered a new bird species!” Phormium Varieties P. ‘Yellow Wave’ There are a lot of cultivars derived from P. tenax and P. colensoi. The RHS has given an Award of Garden Merit to: P. tenax ‘Variegatum’ – green leaves striped with cream near the edges, reddish flowers. P. tenax ‘Purpureum’ – green/dull copperish/purplish leaves, reddish flowers. P. ‘Duet’ – green leaves variegated with cream towards the edges. P. ‘Sundowner’ – rusty green leaves with reddish pink edges. P. ‘Yellow Wave’ – leaves feature bright yellow stripes. Phormium colensoi subsp. hookeri ‘Cream Delight’ – leaves mostly cream with green edges. P. ‘Tricolor’ – yellow/green striped leaves, edged with reddish pink. As well as looking at the leaf colours and forms for the plants, it is also important, when choosing a Phormium, to think about size. The P. tenax and ‘Sundowner’ for example are taller specimens, which can reach over 2m in height. P. ‘Sundowner’ While others are much more compact and diminutive, some just over 1m or a little more in height. Hardiness Bear in mind that some Phormiums are hardier than others. Some are borderline hardy, and will suffer damage in winter where temperatures fall below -5°C. Others, such as ‘Purpureum’ can cope with -10°C or even lower temperatures than that. How To Grow Phormium Division, carried out in spring, is not just for the purpose of reducing overcrowding, It is also the easiest way to obtain new Phormium plants. Leaf fans, complete with roots, can be potted up and grown on. Larger divisions can simply be placed right away into a different part of the garden. From Seed Growing phormiums from seed is not for the novice – it poses something of a challenge. However, if you would like to give it a try, you can collect ripe seed and sow it in a propagator, at 18°C in spring. Be warned, however, the seed may grow into a plant that differs considerably from the parent plant. And you will have to be patient, since germination of these seeds can take up to a year! Most gardeners will simply purchase these interesting and exotic-looking plants, rather than going to the hassle of trying to propagate Phormiums themselves from seed. Fortunately, once you have one healthy mature specimen, division provides an easy way to increase your plant stock. Planting When To Plant Container-grown phormiums are available to purchase year-round. However, the best time to plant these is in the spring, after risk of hard frosts has passed in your area. When planted fairly early in the year, the plants will have time over the summer to become established before colder and wetter weather arrives in autumn and winter. Be sure to plant the phormium to the same level in the soil or container that it was sat at in the pot in which it came. Where To Plant Phormiums need a location in full sun, sheltered from prevailing winds. In colder parts of the UK they will need to be grown in a particularly sheltered spot – against a south-facing fence or wall, for example. In some colder areas, they may still need some winter protection. The soil or growing medium in which they are planted must be evenly moist yet free draining. These plants will not well tolerate waterlogged conditions, and do not like spending the winter in wet conditions. They are often ideal for a gravel garden, or for a large statement container. Where planted in heavier or less ideal soils, the area should be improved with plenty of good quality organic matter prior to planting. Phormium Care Watering Phormiums should be watered regularly over the summer during dry spells in their first year after planting. However, once established, these plants can be pretty drought tolerant, and will need watering only during very hot weather, or longer dry spells. Of course, plants in containers will need to be watered more regularly, and will be more prone to drought damage. Feeding When you are growing your Phormiums in the ground, it can be beneficial to add a multi-purpose organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone to the area after spring planting. Plants struggling with establishment may benefit from a mulch of compost or well-rotted manure. However, mature ground-growing Phormiums should not usually require feeding on an ongoing basis. Phormiums in containers will thrive if provided with an organic liquid plant feed from late spring through to the middle of the summer. Winter Care As mentioned above, Phormiums growing in colder areas, and in particularly cold winters, may need some protection against the cold. Mulching is not just for adding fertility – a thick dry mulch of straw or bark applied in winter can help protect the base of the plant. This should be laid around 10cm thick in autumn, before the first frosts, then removed in spring. In colder parts of the British Isles, it may also be necessary to wrap the top growth with fleece or scrap fabric if a hard frost is forecast. By far the most common problem people will encounter when growing Phormiums in the UK is damage due to hard frosts in winter. A plant can usually recover if only a few leaves have been damaged by winter cold. But if the damage has been more severe, the plants may be slow to recover, or may not recover at all. Keep the plant as healthy as possible and make sure it is in the best possible location to reduce the chances that something will go wrong. Spring Tidy-Up Phormiums do not need regular pruning, but older clumps will appreciate a spring tidy-up. Simply remove any old, damaged leaves. Pull or cut them off the plant as close to the base as you can; cut out old flower stems too – as low down as you can without doing any damage to surrounding foliage. If the clumps have become too large, do not heavily prune – instead, you can consider lifting and dividing the mature plant. References 1. Hindmarsh, G. (1999, April). Flax – the enduring fibre. New Zealand Geographic. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.nzgeo.com/stories/flax-the-enduring-fibre/ 2. Harakeke/flax. (n.d.). Department of Conservation. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native-plants/harakeke-flax/
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Alicante Tomatoes - Pros, Cons And Growing Tips For This Award-Winning Variety
IN THIS GUIDE Overview ‘Alicante’ Pros ‘Alicante’ Cons How To Grow ‘Alicante’ ‘Alicante’ Plant Care Cordon Support Planting Out Watering Feeding Harvesting Seed Saving Green Tomatoes Alicante tomatoes are one of the most common tomato varieties grown by home gardeners. But are they the right variety for you? We delve a little deeper and take a look at this particular cultivar and its characteristics. Alicante tomatoes are a popular red tomato variety – the fruits are produced relatively abundantly and are deep red, and mid-sized. They have a typical, traditional tomato taste and texture and are considered to be relatively sweet. Overview Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum ‘Alicante’ Common Name(s) Alicante Tomato Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Tomato vines – slight differences depending on cultivar Flowers Yellow When To Sow Indoors January, February, March, April When To Plant Out May, June Harvesting Months June, July, August, September, October When To Prune July, August, September These tomatoes have been awarded with an RHS Award of Garden Merit. They are regarded as a superior variety upon which gardeners experienced and novice can depend. Alicante tomatoes are cordon-type tomato plants, which means that they are best grown as a cordon, on support structures. They can grow up to around 2m in height, with a spread of around 50cm. ‘Alicante’ Pros They tend to germinate and crop fairly reliably, even for those who are not necessarily the most experienced or green-fingered of gardeners. This tomato variety can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or outdoors in a suitable spot. This is an affordable option, typically these seeds are cheaper to purchase than F1 seeds. It is easy to get hold of seeds or plants for this variety wherever you live in the UK, since this is such a common variety. And as an open-pollinated variety, you can save seeds from your Alicante tomatoes and won’t necessarily have to buy more seeds next year. These particular tomatoes taste good, and have a good texture. They can be used raw or cooked in a range of different ways and are a multi-purpose tomato type, unlike other tomatoes which are usually only used in specific ways. ‘Alicante’ Cons Like many other tomato varieties, ‘Alicante’ is not blight resistant and can succumb to this fungal disease and encounter a range of other problems (F1 options can sometimes have greater resistance). Since this is a very common variety, it might not be as interesting or fun to grow as more unusual heritage tomato varieties. It does not differ as dramatically from store-bought tomatoes as some other varieties you could try. As this is a cordon type, it requires a support structure, and a little more work is involved than with a bush type. While they are a relatively early cropping variety, there are varieties which will more reliably produce a yield for areas with a shorter growing season. How To Grow ‘Alicante’ ‘Alicante’ seeds are ubiquitous here in the UK and you should have no trouble getting hold of some seeds. Here are some I grew recently: If you have left it too late and would still like to grow tomatoes this year, you can also fairly easily find pot-grown Alicante tomato plants from local garden centres or online. Where To Grow As mentioned above, one of the good things about this variety is that they can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or outdoors in a sunny and sheltered spot. Note that while cordon tomatoes can be grown in containers, this vigorous and tall variety does not necessarily lend itself to small-scale container growing. However, it can be grown in grow bags or other containers below a support structure so the plants can be cordoned as they grow. Growing From Seed Alicante tomatoes, like other tomato varieties, are typically sown in late winter or early spring. Usually, they are sown between February and April in the UK. I like to grow mine in compostable seed trays, which I place in my heated propagator: As mentioned above, for those who have not yet sown tomatoes this year, there is the option of choosing pot-grown starter plants. This can also be an option where it is difficult for you to sow seeds indoors before the last frost date in your area. ‘Alicante’ Plant Care Cordon Support While some ‘cordon tomatoes’ do not necessarily absolutely have to be grown in this way, I have grown Alicante tomatoes as cordon plants, and without cordoning and I would definitely say that from my experience, cordoning does definitely yield the best results for this heritage tomato variety. Cordoning simply involves tying in the plant to a string, wire or stake as they grow, and pinching off side shoots to focus on one central leader. I grow Alicante tomatoes in my polytunnel some years, and have lengths of wire between the crop bars. I tie jute twine to these wires, and tie in the tomatoes to these lengths of twine as they grow. Planting Out When planting out Alicante tomato plants, bury each one a little deeper in the soil than it was in its pot. This also encourages stronger root systems, which is especially important for cordoned tomato plants. Make sure you harden off tomatoes grown indoors, and keep an eye on the weather. Only plant out once the weather has reliably warmed and there is no longer any risk of frost. Watering As with other tomatoes, it is important to make sure that you water deeply and less frequently, rather than little and often. This encourages the plants to form stronger and deeper root systems. Make sure that you water at the base of the plant, rather than watering from above. While for some years, late blight cannot be avoided, reducing the wetting of foliage can reduce the chances of a severe blight infestation taking hold. “Care should be taken with this approach because if you under-water or water tomatoes inconsistently during flower and fruit formation it can result in the skin splitting or blossom end rot making your tomatoes inedible,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I would normally expect to water indoor and outdoor tomatoes daily during summer in the southeast of England. “Getting the watering balance right is a matter of trial and error. If you can afford to try a few different approaches to watering frequency and amount of water on different beds and containers I recommend it, as this will help you to understand what gets you the best harvests.” Feeding Alicante tomatoes are a vigorous variety and tomatoes are pretty ‘hungry’ plants – make sure you have provided them with fertile growing conditions. I tend to mulch newly planted tomatoes with comfrey leaves and other potassium-rich dynamic accumulator plants like Chenopodium album (Lambsquarters / Fat Hen). I also feed the tomato plants with a comfrey liquid feed during flowering, and again once the fruits have begun to form. With tomatoes, it is important to use a potash-rich fertiliser rather than one which is too high in nitrogen, since excess nitrogen can encourage foliage growth at the expense of flowers and fruit. “There are lots of proprietary tomato feeds available from retailers and I recommend formulations that include seaweed extract for the best results,” shares Dan. “Keep in mind that just because it is labelled tomato feed, it doesn’t mean you can’t use it on other flowering plants!” Harvesting Alicante tomatoes can be ready for harvesting from around July, and will often crop right through to October. Remain vigilant and look out for blight during late summer. Pick tomatoes as they mature. Alicante tomatoes ripening on the plant Seed Saving Remember, since ‘Alicante’ is an heirloom or heritage tomato variety, open-pollinated and not an F1 hybrid, you can save the seeds from your tomatoes to sow next year. To save the seeds: Choose a healthy, fully ripe red tomato. Cut it open, and scoop out the seeds into a small jar of water. Leave the seeds in the water for a few days and mould will form. This helps the gelatinous seed coating to break down, improving chances of successful germination. Tip out the seeds into a sieve and run it under a tap to wash the mould away and clean the seeds thoroughly. Place them on a paper towel to dry thoroughly before you store them in a paper envelope in a cool, dark place until next year. Green Tomatoes With ‘Alicante’, it is likely that you will have some green tomatoes yet to ripen at the end of the growing season, but there are certain things you can do to get green tomatoes to ripen on the plant. Try to keep them on the vine for the best flavour – pull up the plant and hang it somewhere warm. If there is other ripening fruit nearby, this will speed up the process. Even if you are still left with some green tomatoes at the end of the season, it is worthwhile remembering that you can still use these in a range of recipes – Green tomato chutney and green tomato salsa are just two of the more common options.
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Gardener Chris Lee Shares 25 Indoor Trees To Brighten Your Living Spaces
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Dragon Tree 2) Yucca 3) Norfolk Island Pine 4) Rubber Plant 5) European Olive 6) Calamondin Orange Tree 7) Corn Plant 8) Money Tree 9) Fiddle Leaf Fig 10) Umbrella Tree 11) Swiss Cheese Plant 12) Parlor Palm 13) Dumb Cane 14) Benjamin Tree 15) Burmese Fishtail Palm 16) Bird of Paradise 17) Kentia Palm 18) Cast Iron Plant 19) Elephant Ear 20) Golden Pothos 21) Elephant’s Foot 22) Rose Painted Calathea 23) Coconut Palm Tree 24) Bay Tree 25) Southern Washingtonia References Plants and greenery breathe vigour and energy into indoor spaces. They’re a great way to bring a room to life, and to bring that little sprinkling of nature to cut through the man-made factors that can begin to feel a little bit oppressive. If you live somewhere with no private outdoor space, incorporating plants and indoor trees can be the only way to invite nature in, so it’s deeply important to make the right choices. In this guide, we’ll introduce twenty-five indoor trees to make a fantastic addition to any indoor space. “The naturalist E.O. Wilson coined the term biophilia (or love of living things) that we seem to possess, even if we aren’t always conscious of it,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant.1 “That’s why you feel good when surrounded by plants and wildlife. Indoor trees are a great immersive way to draw on this innate positive feeling.” Whether you’re struggling to find room amongst your hundreds of other houseplants, or you’re a budding interior designer looking for their very first piece of indoor nature, there’ll be something in this list to align with your needs. 1) Dragon Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Dracaena marginata HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: BATHROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK Let’s start with the indoor tree from the picture above, distinctive with its pinnacle of spiky leaves sporting the distinctive Dracaena tricolor pattern. Each leaf has a band of colour framed by green, with different varieties offering white or red. While this tree can flower, it’s unlikely to do so indoors. It’ll also reach a far more diminutive height: probably around a maximum of 6 feet indoors as opposed to 20 feet and above if left to its natural devices. Dragon trees like bright but indirect light, and need to be in well-draining soil. Try to find a spot with indirect sunlight, as they are prone to scorching. Water regularly, although make sure the top half of the soil is dry before doing so. This can take a couple of weeks, so bear in mind that the definition of “regularly” varies between plants. While dragon trees will probably be alright with the humidity levels in your house, you can give the leaves a spritz every once in a while to add a little moisture. 2) Yucca BOTANICAL NAME: Yucca elephantipes HARDINESS RATING: H2 BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / DINING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM OR SAND; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK; LESS IN WINTER This tree has a lovely exotic profile, adding a nice tropical feel to any room. The thick, deep green leaves lilt lazily to give a relaxed energy, and the thick trunk raising them away from the ground gives a distinctly tree-like appearance that not all indoor trees actually manage to achieve. The care requirements for this tree make it great for gardeners with less experience. It requires less watering than the dragon tree, and it will make do with lower quality soil as well. In fact, one of the easiest ways to damage a yucca is by overwatering it, so be careful! During the hotter months you may need to move your yucca outside to a spot with partial shade. When doing so, make sure to weigh down the container or put into a heavier pot. This will prevent gusts of wind from potentially knocking the plant over. The yucca’s maximum size is bigger than what will fit comfortably into most of our houses, although it takes such a long time to grow to this size that it won’t be a problem for a while. You’ll need to repot every few years as the plant grows. 3) Norfolk Island Pine BOTANICAL NAME: Araucaria heterophylla HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / BEDROOM SUNLIGHT: DIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE OR TWICE PER WEEK; BENEFITS FROM MISTING The Norfolk Island Pine is native to – you guessed it – Norfolk Island. This territory flies under the radar of most people, unless they’re Australians looking for a local holiday or, more likely, gardeners looking for a nice houseplant. The plant itself boasts the evergreen needle appearance you’d expect of a pine, the needles in dense and appealing clusters. Where most indoor trees bring an air of the tropical or the exotic, Araucaria heterophylla brings something a little more rugged and rustic, perhaps bringing to mind something Scandinavian. Your Norfolk Island Pine will do best in full sun or partial shade, with a few hours of direct sun being tolerated. Water every week or so, and let the top section of soil dry before adding any more. In terms of humidity, slightly higher than average household humidity is preferred. Give your plant the occasional spritz to make up for lower-than-ideal humidity. 4) Rubber Plant BOTANICAL NAME: FICUS ELASTICA HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / DINING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK The rubber plant is a popular choice for people looking to spruce up their interior design. The thick green leaves provide a nice shot of colour, and their care regime is undemanding. As with some other indoor trees, the F. elastica grows to fairly lofty heights out in the wild, but it will stay within manageable limits when grown indoors. Over time as the size increases, you may find yourself needing to stake or otherwise support the branches to keep them steady. The best spot for your F. elastica will have a good amount of indirect sunlight. You only need to water when the top half of the soil is dry, and overwatering is a common source of damage – so take care! Repotting should be done every year for a young plant, and roughly every three years thereafter. You can tell when a young plant needs repotting because the roots will be bound. Big leaves mean this plant is prone to collect dust, so give them a wipe down with a damp sponge if they get too dusty. 5) European Olive BOTANICAL NAME: Olea europea HARDINESS RATING: H4 BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY (PATIO IN SUMMER) SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN; AS MUCH LIGHT AS POSSIBLE SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK If you often find yourself in conflicts and arguments, why not ensure a constant supply of olive branches to extend to people? Or, far more likely, why not choose this indoor tree as an attractive and distinctive way to liven up your drab indoor space? Olive trees love plenty of sunlight, and will do best with at least a few hours per day. Think about it: these are trees that grow naturally in stunning Italian and Greek sunshine, so you’ll need to make certain concessions based on the warm and glamorous lifestyle they’re used to. The tree will reward you, though. Their captivating clusters of miniature leaves come in a striking grey-green colour, bringing something a little different to the rich and exotic greens we’ve seen previously. It’s quite unlikely that your olive tree will actually bear fruit – something to keep in mind. Some ornamental varieties are unable to do so, while others require time outside in the right conditions to bud. So if you’re looking for home-grown olives, you’ll need to do a little extra research. Keep in frequent but indirect sunlight and water when the top of the soil is wet. Repot when the root ball is getting a little restricted to give your plant the best chances for a long life. 6) Calamondin Orange Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus mitis HARDINESS RATING: H3 BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY (PATIO IN SUMMER) SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: AS NEEDED; ONCE OR TWICE PER WEEK We really love this one. What’s more adorable than a plant that puts forth tiny oranges each year, and brings with it a charming and refreshing citrus scent? Also let us clarify: these aren’t tiny oranges, technically; they’re mandarins combined with kumquats. While this isn’t the type of plant you’d expect to see thriving in UK growing conditions, the saplings can be encouraged to have a long and healthy life if kept indoors and looked after well. Perhaps the main draw of this plant is its scent: refreshing and orangey, and a lovely extra sensory contribution to your home. When it’s in bloom, the calamondin will catch the eye (and nose) of any guests, and is guaranteed to be a talking point. Indoors these trees require temperatures above 13°C and will appreciate being fertilised each spring. Keep the soil moist but only water when the top couple of centimetres are dry, and don’t overwater. Give the plant direct sunlight each day for a few hours if possible, and if you have the space, move outside for a few hours a day in spring. Calamondin can actually tolerate spending summer outdoors entirely if you live in the right climate – we recommend double-checking this before doing so, however, as misjudging can harm growth. 7) Corn Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Dracaena fragrans HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: FILTERED, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY TEN DAYS The corn plant is an interesting-looking indoor tree. It’s got a thick green stem with beige markings – looking almost like slash marks – which then give rise to smaller offshoots from which leaves fan gently out. It definitely shares an exotic aesthetic with plants featured earlier in this list, and would look great alongside a yucca, for example. The exotic visual appeal has ensure the persistent presence of corn plants in the interior decorator’s arsenal for many decades, and it’s easy to see why. While the plant has nothing to do with the corn you find in barbecues and salads, the name derives from the tuft of leaves at the top of the plant which, as somebody noted when choosing the name, look a little like the tuft atop field corn. This indoor tree can grow up to 15m tall in natural conditions, but in a container will most likely peak around 1.5-1.8m, making them ideal home companions. 8) Money Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Crassula ovata HARDINESS RATING: H2 BEST ROOMS: KITCHEN / LIVING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY TEN DAYS Native to South American climates, Crassula ovata is said to bring good fortune and prosperity. Thankfully it also has incredibly attractive foliage and is well suited to growing as an indoor tree. To care for your plant, keep it in indirect but bright light and water infrequently. 9) Fiddle Leaf Fig BOTANICAL NAME: Ficus lyrata HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / BRIGHT BATHROOMS SUNLIGHT: MOSTLY BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK Fiddle Leaf Fig is an African native that is actually considered invasive in some areas.2 However, you needn’t worry about that if you’re looking to grow this in the UK, as the plant can’t survive outside of the home in our relatively colder climate. This plant can grow to a significant size so it looks really impressive in a living space or bathroom that receives plenty of bright light. 10) Umbrella Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Schefflera arboricola HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: NORTH FACING SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED COMPOST; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: INFREQUENTLY; WHEN DRIED OUT Schefflera is commonly grown as an indoor tree here in Britain but in its native environment of New Guinea it can be found in many habitats. The plant is an epiphyte, which means it often grows on a host tree; sometimes quite high up.3 For the best results when growing indoors, choose a north-facing spot in your home, water infrequently and use loam-based compost with regular fertilisation. 11) Swiss Cheese Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Monstera deliciosa HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / DINING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK Monstera is most widely known for its interesting perforations that give it a resemblance to its namesake ‘Swiss Cheese’. This is another indoor tree whose origins can be tied back to the rainforests of South America, where it uses its aerial roots to climb into tree canopies.4 For this reason, it’s always beneficial to provide your plant with a centralised moss pole, allowing it to climb and grow bigger. As it grows (and provided the plant has access to enough bright but indirect light) you’ll notice perforations opening up on the foliage, giving this plant incredible character. Monstera that are well-cared-for can grow quite large, so choose a spot with plenty of room. 12) Parlor Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaedorea elegans HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: BEDROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: MEDIUM OR LOW, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY ONE OR TWO WEEKS Chamaedorea elegans is the archetypal houseplant – extremely tolerant of neglect, loves well-drained soil and prefers a quiet corner of the home. Keep the plant in a low light environment for the best results – direct sunlight should always be avoided. Waterlogging will stunt your plant’s growth so be sure only to water when the plant is well dried-out – usually this means every one or two weeks. 13) Dumb Cane BOTANICAL NAME: Dieffenbachia HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT OR FULL SHADE SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY ONE OR TWO WEEKS Another South-American native, Dieffenbachia is a low-maintenance tree that is perfectly suited to indoor growing conditions. Bright, indirect light is preferred, but the plant is equally as happy in part or full shade, which makes it an ideal houseplant.5 The plant will often develop interesting, variegated leaves which can make it an ideal talking point when situated in a living area of the home. 14) Benjamin Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Ficus benjamina HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: ANY SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK The Benjamin Tree, or ‘Weeping Fig’ as it is commonly known, is an indoor tree with small rubbery leaves and drooping branches. It is usually best grown in a consistent area of the house, as large-scale changes to its environment can cause stress, causing the plant to drop its leaves.6 In its native landscape the plant actually produces red and orange fruits that turn black – but you are unlikely to see these when growing the plant indoors in the UK. 15) Burmese Fishtail Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Caryota mitis HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY 10 DAYS The next indoor tree on our list is the Burmese Fishtail Palm, a native of Tropical Asia that has interesting, fan-like foliage. The tall, clustering palms look fantastic in a living space alongside home furniture decor. Use a loam-based potting mix such as John Innes and keep the soil well-drained for optimal results. 16) Bird of Paradise BOTANICAL NAME: Strelitzia reginae HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: FULL LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING; BENEFITS FROM MISTING 17) Kentia Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Howea forsteriana HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY SUNLIGHT: DAPPLED LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK 18) Cast Iron Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Aspidistra HARDINESS RATING: H3 BEST ROOMS: NORTH FACING SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY 10 DAYS 19) Elephant Ear BOTANICAL NAME: Alocasia zebrina HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: BATHROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: MEDIUM, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK; BENEFITS FROM MISTING 20) Golden Pothos BOTANICAL NAME: Epipremnum aureum HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: KITCHEN / LIVING ROOM / BEDROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT OR MEDIUM, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK 21) Elephant’s Foot BOTANICAL NAME: Beaucarnea HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY 1-2 WEEKS 22) Rose Painted Calathea BOTANICAL NAME: Calathea rufibarba HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: BATHROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: REGULARLY; KEEP SOIL DAMP 23) Coconut Palm Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Cocos nucifera HARDINESS RATING: H3 BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY / SOUTH-FACING KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK; BENEFITS FROM MISTING 24) Bay Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Laurus nobilis HARDINESS RATING: H4 BEST ROOMS: KITCHEN / CONSERVATORY SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK 25) Southern Washingtonia BOTANICAL NAME: Washingtonia robusta HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY / SOUTH-FACING KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY 10 DAYS References 1. Rogers, K. (2023, June 13). Biophilia hypothesis. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved June 27, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/science/biophilia-hypothesis 2. Datiles, M., & Acevedo-Rodrígue, P. (2014). Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.24125 3. Chadburn, H. (n.d.). The “umbrella plant” in New Guinea. Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/umbrella-plant 4. Monstera (Monstera deliciosa). (n.d.). NYBG. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://libguides.nybg.org/monstera 5. Dieffenbachia. (n.d.). University of Florida: Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/dieffenbachia.html 6. Ficus benjamina. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ficus-benjamina/
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Grow Herbs In Any Space With These 50+ Ideas From Jonathan Sweet
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Windowsill Selection 2) Self-Watering Gardens 3) Recycled Planters 4) Al Fresco Upcycling 5) Wall-Mounted Herbs 6) Potted Herb Garden 7) Mobile Herb Garden 8) Companion Planting 9) Herb Spirals 10) Hydroponic Herbs References Keep your kitchen cupboards stocked and your culinary creations spiced with these ingenious herb garden ideas. There’s nothing quite like a bunch of freshly chopped herbs to bring a dish to life. Thankfully, growing your own herbs at home is a straightforward enough endeavour for even the most inexperienced of horticulturalists. They’re resilient, require little in the way of maintenance and take up next to no room, meaning that a small (or non-existent!) garden shouldn’t be an impediment to you crafting your very own herb garden with everything you need to concoct wonderful culinary creations in the kitchen. Below is a rundown of ten of the best herb garden ideas to suit all environments and levels of competence. Not so confident in your green-fingered abilities? Choose a self-watering option. Don’t have a whole lot of room to play with? Consider a wall-mounted or window-hanging alternative. Committed to sustainability and doing your bit for the environment? An upcycled garden is the way to go. Whatever your needs and your preferences, there’s an option to suit – 1) Windowsill Selection A windowsill is a perfect location for a herb garden. It’s the ideal compromise between being out of the way but also within easy reach when it’s needed, plus the plants will be ideally positioned to absorb as much of the sun’s rays as possible. Since space is still likely to be an issue in a ledge as narrow as the one bordering a window, it’s a good idea to pick three or four of your most used herbs and plant them here. Those with reduced space could benefit from a hanging planter that fits right into the nook of the window. Not only will this free up space below them for placing kitchen tools and utensils, but it can also create an attractive design feature framed by the window backdrop. 2) Self-Watering Gardens For those with little experience in the garden – or with little time to devote to the activity – there are plenty of new-fangled options on the market which turn horticulture into a cakewalk. Some of the most innovative and convenient of these gizmos include self-watering or hydroponic herb gardens, which remove the need for you to remember to continually keep them hydrated. You can even make your own DIY self-watering planters with a little bit of ingenuity and creative thinking, although these generally aren’t quite so technologically advanced. The beauty of self-watering herb gardens – aside from the obvious convenience they offer – is the sheer range of options available to you. If you want to go the whole hog, you can plump for a sophisticated model which regulates not only irrigation, but light exposure, temperature and humidity, too. Easy self-watering systems are also available to buy – these come in many different styles and can be placed in any planter. The choice is yours. 3) Recycled Planters An upcycled herb garden can be a great way to help save the planet and create a quirky home feature, all in a single stroke. Both wine and soft drink bottles work well here, but the options are virtually endless. Mason jars are particularly effective for a modern aesthetic, while tin cans are great at accentuating an existing shabby chic décor. “Herbs such as thyme, which are happy in dry conditions, are a good choice for a low-maintenance herb hanging basket made from a recycled planter,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “A trailing rosemary may be just attractive as any typical bedding plant and the display would keep for another year.” You can even repurpose your finest china tea cups by planting herbs in them for an elegant display! Old egg cartons are the perfect size for growing new seedlings. No matter the medium you eventually choose to house your herbs, just remember to create holes in the bottom of the makeshift pot to allow for easy drainage. Otherwise, your herbs will soon become waterlogged and drown, which isn’t conducive to them lasting the test of thyme (sorry!). For climate-conscious gardeners there are also recyclable plant pots available to buy, which are made from recycled materials. These are fully compostable and the materials break down when you re-pot your plant. 4) Al Fresco Upcycling Your sustainability efforts don’t have to be confined to an indoor setting, either. Wooden pallets can be easily transformed into a fantastic impromptu herb garden by flipping them on their side, filling the apertures with soil and planting your favourite herbs in the slats. You might find that your local garden centre is willing to donate a spare one to you free of charge – especially if you’re a valuable customer of theirs – but even a nominal fee is a small price to pay for this ingenious home planting solution. Other ideas for upcycling furniture include turning old ladders, bedside tables or chest of drawers into new and unusual herb gardens, simply by making the most of rung and drawer space to cultivate your creations. Guttering is another excellent material that lends itself well to the purpose; simply chop a drainage chute into manageable sections, drill holes in the bottom and fill with soil. Given that they’re designed to be positioned off the ground anyway, they’re an ideal option for a hanging herb garden outside your back door. 5) Wall-Mounted Herbs If space really is at a premium in your garden, a vertical herb garden is the ideal way to ensure your kitchen never runs out of its essentials whilst still not encroaching on the limited dimensions available to you. You can use bespoke products like the one in the photograph above, while an adapted shoe organiser is the perfect shape and size for repurposing as a planter. The canvas material is strong enough to support the herbs and soil, but porous enough to allow excess water to drain away in times of heavy rainfall. Attaching plant pots to a free wall can make practical use of the space while beautifying it at the same time. Even individual plant pots welded to the wall with metal or iron brackets will function exceptionally well in giving you access to the herbs you need in the space you have to work with. On the other hand, you don’t have to go for a design quite as grand or as ambitious as either of these options. Units like the one pictured above can be filled with soil and allow for easy vertical herb growing. Pallets can also be used in a vertical fashion for growing – supporting the shady requirements of some plants and the full sun needs of others. Whatever type of structure you go for, just make sure it’s fixed securely to the supporting wall – otherwise, your herbs could come crashing down around you. 6) Potted Herb Garden If in doubt, it’s always an idea to keep things simple. The diminutive dimensions and the meagre maintenance requirements of almost all herbs mean that going down the old-fashioned potted route inevitably brings dividends for indoor or outdoor planting. With the herbs contained in individual pots, you can easily move them around to take advantage of plentiful sunshine in the summer months or bring them indoors when the mercury plummets and the heavens open. It should be remembered, of course, that different herbs have different requirements when growing them in pots, so it’s important to tailor your approach to the plant in question. A propagation station for herbs (like the one above) is always good for producing new plants from existing ones and growing your collection. Again, the versatility of potted herbs means that you should be able to accommodate those specifications with a little forward planning. 7) Mobile Herb Garden Speaking of portability, you could always take the idea to the next logical step by planting the herbs directly into a movable receptacle. An old wheelbarrow is perfect for this, since it’s already been designed to cart loads around the garden. Simply drill several drainage holes in the bottom of the barrow and fill it with compost, then arrange your favourite herbs as artfully as you like. Come rain or shine, you’ll be able to ferry your garden to a sheltered or exposed spot as the situation warrants. Other options for creating a mobile herb garden include tool trolleys, small wheelie bins or even an old bicycle, since the basket in front of the handlebars can serve as an excellent and offbeat window garden. Alternatively, you can quite easily fashion your own; all you need are a few pieces of wood, a set of castor wheels and the know-how to put them all together. With this kind of bespoke design, you can be as simple or as sophisticated as your abilities allow. 8) Companion Planting Spring onions and parsley are the best of bedfellows Another idea for how to arrange your herb garden for optimum impact is through companion planting. This is the practice of pairing herbs with one another (or with other plants in the garden) to deliver mutual benefits for both. Certain herbs give off unique aromas which common pests find unpleasant, thus deterring them from desecrating your crops. Others exude scents that attract pollinators or other friendly creepy-crawlies, while there are even a number of herbs that can enrich the soil. Perhaps best of all, some herbs will enhance the flavour of other herbs and crops in their vicinity. Garlic growing with lettuce Basil, chamomile and tarragon are some such options, while garlic gets on amiably with almost all other plants. Tomatoes with a row of basil Mint, chives and coriander are all adept at repelling aphids, while catnip and lavender bring bees and butterflies by the bucketload. Heirloom Tuscan kale with lemon balm, swiss chard and basil Just remember that certain herbs – such as fennel – are not quite so user friendly and will benefit from being cultivated alone, so read up on possible pairings before you plough ahead. 9) Herb Spirals If you don’t have a whole lot of room to work with, a spiral herb garden can be a great option for cultivating your culinary vegetation. The beauty of this arrangement lies not just in its space efficiency, but also in the freedom and flexibility it offers you to cater to the requirements of different plant types. For example, you can position those herbs which prefer full sunlight at the top of the spiral and stagger ones which thrive in partial shade further down the chain, thus satisfying all comers in the same design. The spiral featured above is a mid-sized variation on the theme, but you can play with the dimensions according to the space that’s available to you. Herb spirals are usually very simple structures to build, as you can see from the images below: For really tight spots, you can even dispense with the kind of rockery aesthetic replicated above and instead create a pyramid from different sized pots, planting different herbs in each level. This maximises the space, offers differing levels of shade and even allows for a trickle-down irrigation system, ticking a number of boxes with just one design. 10) Hydroponic Herbs Hydroponics is becoming an increasingly popular method of growing plants among both green-fingered novices and commercial businesses, chiefly due to the fact that it’s a great way to cultivate crops in a smaller space. It also dispenses with the use of soil entirely, meaning it requires one less resource, with all the nutrients dispersed among the water and a continuous airflow ensuring the root network remains oxygenated at all times.1 As with the self-watering avenue outlined above, there are all kinds of store-bought hydroponics kits with varying degrees of capacity and technological capability. There are deep-water systems, drip systems, ebb and flow systems and aeroponic systems, each with its own features and advantages. It’s also more than possible to create your own DIY solutions at home. And best of all, the herbs will grow faster than via a traditional growing medium, there’s no mess from the soil and you don’t have to worry about watering them on a constant basis!2 A weekly or even biweekly check on the nutrient levels in the solution is all that’s needed to keep your chives thriving and your fennel flourishing. References 1. Hydroponics: The power of water to grow food. (2019, October 4). Science in the News: Harvard University. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://sitn.hms.harvard.edu/flash/2019/hydroponics-the-power-of-water-to-grow-food/ 2. Nguyen, N., McInturf, S. A., & Mendoza-Cózatl, D. G. (2016). Hydroponics: A Versatile System to Study Nutrient Allocation and Plant Responses to Nutrient Availability and Exposure to Toxic Elements. Journal of Visualized Experiments, 113. https://doi.org/10.3791/54317
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