Growing
Dianthus Feeding And Watering Guidelines: Make Sure To Facilitate Very Good Drainage
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Feeding Dianthus, the Flower of the Greek god Zeus, is, in fact, the name of a genus that includes three super-popular flowering plants: Carnations, Pinks, and Sweet Williams. Dianthus, as a genus, is a little too often typecast and sometimes mischaracterised as being suited best for cottage gardens. To correct the record, though Sweet Williams may well be cottage garden mainstays, we submit that carnations are ‘courtyard garden classics’. Carnation flowers with their pastel, genteel shades, refined looks, and subtle charms are well-suited for formal gardens as well, with that restrained, conservative glaucous foliage putting the final touches on the ‘formal’ dress code. Whether it’s ruffled carnations, fringed pinks or dainty Sweet Williams that are most to your taste, you will get the best out of your plants if you follow these watering and feeding guidelines. Watering Where watering Dianthus is concerned, one had better start with soil and drainage. All types of Dianthus are quite susceptible to root rot, crown rot, and stem rot (yes, all three) so soil must drain very well. To facilitate very good drainage – besides other factors – soil should not be heavy or clayey; at the same time, be mindful that Dianthus need a soil pH level from neutral to slightly alkaline. Be sure that containers and pots have drainage holes. As a general rule, assuming there is no rain and you’re enjoying ‘normal’ weather, give open-ground Dianthus an inch of water per week. In hot weather water them twice a week. Do not keep the soil consistently moist – let the soil just dry out between waterings. This is especially important in the winter when you should also decrease the amount and frequency of watering. To water by feel, allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 3-4cm before watering again. In hot weather do monitor soil moisture levels and especially so for containerised Dianthus plants. If the container’s soil does not include moisture-retentive media, it will dry out very soon in high heat. It would be well to water at soil level though this is not so critical for Dianthus as for some other plants. However, virtually all flowering plants are best watered by mid-morning. Feeding Though Dianthus are not heavy feeders and perform perfectly well without fertilising, they do require rich, fertile soil – that is a ‘non-negotiable’. When planting Dianthus of any kind, fork over the soil to a depth of about 25cm and amend with a generous quantity of organic compost or humus – that will do for ‘fertiliser’. You may amend the soil with well-rotted manure too but do not use chicken manure for Dianthus as this will just encourage leafy growth rather than flowers. (And while you’re amending the soil, you could also look into drainage, and add grit, sand, or perlite, as appropriate.) Feeding Dianthus is an ‘extra’ and if you can do it, all the better, as this will encourage more flowering throughout the season. What with the thousands of cultivars of carnations, pinks, and Sweet Williams, different groupings have slightly different ‘feeding preferences,’ so to speak. That said, you can’t go wrong feeding any Dianthus by either: Applying once in early spring and again in late summer a controlled-release or slow-release balanced fertiliser like Miracle-Gro Shake ’n’ Feed All Purpose Continuous Release or Osmocote Controlled Release Plant Food, or, Feeding every few weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser like Miracle-Gro All Purpose or a special-purpose formula such as Grow-More’s 3-6-6 Flower and Bloom. We suggest that for Dianthus you apply fertiliser at 70-80% of the proportion or quantity indicated in the manufacturer’s directions.
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Decorate Your Doorway With 14 Eye-Catching Options For Any Home
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Geranium 2) Gerbera Daisy 3) Azalea 4) Carnations 5) Mountain Cowslip 6) Primrose 7) Dahlia 8) Hebe 9) Persian Buttercup 10) Wallflower 11) Treasure Flower 12) Sweet Alyssum 13) Cardinal Flower 14) Hellebore The Variables Habits & Hardiness Your front door is the focal point of your dwelling and perhaps you’d like to adorn it with floral decoration. But plants come in numerous habits and sizes, and blooms in diverse shapes and colours! Which to choose? We provide guidelines as to how to match plant to entrance, with a preference for cold-hardy evergreens, and also make specific suggestions for particular types of dwellings. Some plants are just tailor-made for positioning at the front door entrance. The size, habit, form, and colourations all combine to create that touch of aesthetic appeal, to signal a cheery welcome, or, perhaps, make a style statement. One has to account for all the many kinds and styles of dwellings, and we’ll try to offer some guidance on this point. Another point to consider is the size of your entrance and dwelling and the size of the plant. Though we do not suggest that you place a small pot of Forget-me-Not at a ten-foot-high oak door, if you do so it will seem like an exceptionally dainty touch. But if you have a small front door and a small dwelling, placing a big, tall, bushy plant by it will result in visual disharmony – it will ‘look awkward.’ Here we go then with our 14 plants in no order of preference, but with an indicator as to the type of home each selection is best suited for: 1) Geranium BOTANICAL NAME: GERANIUM HARDINESS RATING: H7 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Plenum Violaceum’ FLOWERING PERIOD: JUNE – JULY In a way Geranium is an automatic choice, and there are good reasons why dozens of them have been awarded the RHS’s AGM. Many of these super-hardy perennials are good to grow by the North Sea. Put them once in a planter by your front door, but you will have to prune them! As they come in quite a variety of forms and habits so be sure to choose the right kinds as only some are suitable for front door entrances. Geranium himalayense ‘Plenum’ Accounting for the flowering period, we suggest G. pratense ‘Plenum Violaceum’, G. versicolor, G. x oxonianum ‘Beholder’s Eye’, G. x oxonianum ‘Wargrave Pink’, G. ‘Latwijk Star’, G. erianthum, and G. ‘Elworthy Eyecatcher’. The simple, sweet flowers are usually in soothing, pastel tones – and don’t forget those unusually pretty lobed leaves. Place clumping or bushy types of a good height with long flowering season, such as the ones mentioned above, in a big planter or in the ground. Best for large, simple, uncategorisable family dwellings, especially in the northernmost reaches. 2) Gerbera Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: GERBERA HARDINESS RATING: H3 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Garden Jewels’ Series FLOWERING PERIOD: JUNE – AUGUST As a consequence of the United Kingdom’s regional climates and Gerberas’ tenderness-hardiness, these plants are considered half-hardy semi-evergreens in much of the UK. Not so the ‘Garden Jewels’ series – these plants are fully hardy, thus you get evergreens and can enjoy their greenery year-round. And it’s very pretty, comprising decorative scalloped leaves in neat basal rosettes. As for the large double disk-shaped flowers with those series and layers of long rays, they are a sight to behold. In vivid hues through the warm spectrum, they project joy and exuberance. Topping everything off, the blooms start sometime in spring and finish well into autumn! We recommend ‘Yellow,’ ‘Red,’ ‘Fuchsia,’ and ‘Frosted Hot Pink.’ Place Gerbera ‘Garden Jewels’ in any old clay pots. Best for any house that is full of noise, life, and children – or any home that is lonely and could use the joy of Gerberas. 3) Azalea BOTANICAL NAME: AZALEA (RHODODENDRON) HARDINESS RATING: H6 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Encore’ Series FLOWERING PERIOD: MARCH – APRIL, JUNE – JULY, SEPTEMBER What could beat a fully hardy, evergreen, bush with rich, dusky green foliage that bears bunches of the loveliest funnel-shaped flowers in fantastic colours of pastel shades or vivid tones, and is floriferous to boot? An Azalea does not have to be a large sprawling bush; you can get suitably-sized varieties including dwarves or you can simply keep pruning the desired variety. And there is no need to mess around with an Azalea from one season to the other – put it once by your front door and your entrance will be lit up forever. With that being said, Colin Skelly (Horticulturist) reminds us of the importance of using the correct growing medium. “When potting up plants for your front door entrance, make sure to use the right compost (the plant’s label should tell you what’s needed – so make sure to read it). “Azalea are ericaceous plants, meaning that they need acidic compost. “Be sure to get ericaceous compost as without it the plant will not be able to access nutrients and will yellow – not the first impression you want to give!” Encore Azaleas will bloom intermittently in spring, summer, and autumn. Choose whichever varieties that are to your taste, though we have specific recommendations for the type of dwellings identified below. Use ‘Encore’ Azalea varieties with white and off-white, and intense orange and intense red, flowers in a decorative container or in the ground. Best for Georgian houses or dwellings of substantial size. 4) Carnations BOTANICAL NAME: DIANTHUS HARDINESS RATING: VARIES RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘John Sandall’, ‘Brian Tumbler’, ‘Pennine Treasure’ FLOWERING PERIOD: JULY – AUGUST Carnations, delicate, frilly, and ruffled are a top choice for bouquets but they make among the loveliest container plants. The flowers are heart-achingly lovely and the tissue-thin intricately arranged petals seem to impart a sense of fragility. Some varieties’ flowers are flecked or even broken, delicately edged, or are picotee, and these attributes enhance the gentility of these flowers. Don’t forget the narrow leaves whose delicacy matches that of the blooms. And this chalky greyish-green foliage is evergreen and many varieties are fully hardy so you can place them at your entrance once, and not worry about them. The varieties we suggest are only nominally bushy, are classic specimen plants, and rise to a good 50-75cm. Carnation ‘John Sandall’, ‘Brian Tumbler’, ‘Pennine Treasure’, ‘Gran’s Favourite’, ‘Spinfield Joy’, and ‘Leon Tautz’ are among our favourites. Best for Tudor-style houses, and any dwelling that radiates the dignity of age. 5) Mountain Cowslip BOTANICAL NAME: AURICULA HARDINESS RATING: H5 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Gwen’, ‘Dill’, ‘Joyce’ FLOWERING PERIOD: APRIL – MAY Auriculas are very small plants so they are most suited for smaller townhomes and smallish entryways. These plants’ diminutive character actually enhances the charm of the tiny salver-shaped flowers that are often intensely coloured with a central disk (called the farina), and are frequently gradated, striped, flecked, or broken. The broad sea-green leaves are neatly arranged and are evergreen so the plant can stay year-round near your entrance. The supremely ornamental flowers occur in clusters during spring and if you feed the plants appropriately, you’ll get blooms through spring! Some have longer blooming seasons than others, among which are some delightfully pretty cultivars: ‘Gwen’, ‘Dill’, ‘Joyce’, ‘Taffeta’, ‘Arundell’, ‘Remus’ and ‘Red Gauntlet’. Utilise Auricula in small decorative pots or a large planter. Best for spick and span, trim suburban homes. 6) Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: PRIMULA HARDINESS RATING: H7 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Danova’ Series FLOWERING PERIOD: JANUARY – MAY The classic English Primrose is associated with spring but the long-blooming Danova Series’ varieties go one better because they bloom nearly through winter and spring so you’ve got both seasons covered with a single plant. ‘Danova’ Series Primrose plants are tiny at only 15-20cm but are floriferous and bear good-sized flowers in clusters. They are wide-open and salverform with the petals having that trademark distal notch. This Made-in-Japan series of plants associated with England offers 13 colours including gentle shades and vivid tones. All have a bright yellow eye, be it tiny as it is in ‘Blue’ or huge as in ‘Burgundy’. Any and all of them will adorn a front door with class to spare. Use Primrose ‘Danova’ Series ‘Mix’ or ‘Grower’s Select Mix’ in small decorative pots on a ledge. Best for any cottage-style dwelling that is quintessentially British. 7) Dahlia BOTANICAL NAME: DAHLIA HARDINESS RATING: VARIES RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Ellen Huston’, ‘Marston Lilac’, ‘Karma Yin Yang’ FLOWERING PERIOD: JUNE – SEPTEMBER Dahlias are supremely popular as specimen plants on both sides of the Atlantic, and for good reason. The large flower is exquisitely wrought and its tidy, rigid, and symmetrical multi-petalled form as well as the way it ‘holds itself’ makes it look aloof and regal. This impression is accented by the height of the plant which ranges from half a metre to a full metre. They also have long blooming seasons spanning summer and autumn, provided they are deadheaded regularly. There are different kinds of Dahlias so we have selected varieties of the kind best suited for the entrance of a certain type of house. In general, we suggest clumping – which are essentially erect – or upright habits, and varieties that bear flowers of rich, deep tones. Dahlia ‘Ellen Huston’, ‘Marston Lilac’, ‘Karma Yin Yang’, ‘Arabian Night’, ‘Kilburn Glow’ and ‘Purple Picotee’ all work well in ornate containers. Best for Victorian-style houses and for mansions. 8) Hebe BOTANICAL NAME: HEBE HARDINESS RATING: H4 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Caledonia’, ‘Blue Clouds’ FLOWERING PERIOD: JULY – SEPTEMBER Though many Hebe varieties are unsuitable for front door entrances for one reason or another, two are ideal, and for every reason. These are ‘Caledonia’ and ‘Blue Clouds’. The former is of a mounding form while the latter is more upright. These evergreens even have pleasant foliage characteristics over and above the laid-back cool greyish-green colour: ‘Caledonia’ leaves are reddish when they emerge; ‘Blue Clouds’ turn purplish in winter. Both varieties bear a profusion of cute little inflorescences through summer and autumn, one in lilac, the other in purple. And they’ll bring a bonus: butterflies and bees at your front door! Hebe ‘Caledonia’ aka ‘Knightshayes’ and/or ‘Blue Clouds’ work well in any large nondescript planter. For any old large, not-exactly-tidy dwelling occupied by a big family. 9) Persian Buttercup BOTANICAL NAME: RANUNCULUS HARDINESS RATING: H4 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Tecolote’ and ‘Aviv’ Series FLOWERING PERIOD: JULY – SEPTEMBER The special appeal of the Garden Ranunculus bloom is in its refinement and symmetry. And those tissue-thin petals in countless concentric series rather make it appear as if the flower was wrought by a master craftsman in Old Europe. ‘Tecolote’ and ‘Aviv’ Series varieties are usually of a mounding form with feathery foliage over which the eye-catching blooms rise on 40-50cm stems with the flowers being 10-12cm in diameter. They are excellent specimen plants. Let’s call them ‘Floral Elegance.’ Place Ranunculus ‘Tecolote Pink’ and R. ‘Aviv Purple’ in decorative containers. Ideal for Edwardian style houses and for immaculately-maintained and finely-appointed homes. 10) Wallflower BOTANICAL NAME: ERYSIMUM HARDINESS RATING: H4 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Constant Cheer’, ‘Fair Lady’, ‘Red Jep’ FLOWERING PERIOD: MARCH – NOVEMBER The Erysimum genus of ‘Wallflowers’ comprise a very varied range of varieties including evergreens. Among these there are three that are small to petite in size, have long blooming seasons, and are very floriferous as well. ‘Constant Cheer’ will conjure up a six-month supply of clusters of little flowers primarily in pinks and purples. The ‘Fair Lady’ and ‘Red Jep’ varieties are about as floriferous though not with as long a blooming season but ‘Fair Lady’ beard flowers that are bi-coloured and brilliantly gradated mainly in the yellow through red spectrum while ‘Red Jep’ produces flowers in vivid, electric hues. Best for all styles of cottages and ‘simple’ homes. 11) Treasure Flower BOTANICAL NAME: GAZANIA HARDINESS RATING: H2 / H3 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Tiger Stripes’ FLOWERING PERIOD: JUNE – AUGUST Many Gazania varieties’ flowers are brilliantly-hued and project vitality and good cheer. Now a big plus point for a plant you’d like to set at your front door is a long blooming season, and ‘New Day Rose Stripe’ offers that in spades. It starts flowering well before summer and continues after it ends! Above clumps of deep green foliage emerge large open flowers with narrow, tapered petals. Each petal is off-white with a longitudinal crimson stroke, as if made by a brush! You can go with the very popular ‘Tiger Stripes’ or ‘Tiger Eye’ instead. Ideal for modern-styled suburban Millennials’ homes. 12) Sweet Alyssum BOTANICAL NAME: LOBULARIA HARDINESS RATING: H3 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Wonderland White’, ‘Rosie O’Day’, ‘Easter Bonnet Lavender’ FLOWERING PERIOD: JUNE – SEPTEMBER This may not seem like a top choice for the front door entrance but it all depends on several variables. If you live in a small cottage-like home with a constricted entrance, then put an ultra-short, trailing-form Lobularia or ‘Sweet Alyssum’ in a hanging basket and hang it by your door, and bang! – you’ll have the perfect entrance plant. Those fulsome bunches of white or light blooms will tumble out of the basket and billow in the wind. They’ll impart a sweet scent to your entryway, and even bring in a few butterflies! Though the flowers are small, they occur in incredible profusion for three-plus months. Sweet Alyssum ‘Wonderland White’, ‘Rosie O’Day’, ‘Easter Bonnet Lavender’, or ‘Golf Series’ look lovely in hanging baskets. Best for small, cottage-style dwellings. 13) Cardinal Flower BOTANICAL NAME: LOBELIA HARDINESS RATING: Mostly H3 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Starship’, ‘Monet Moment’, ‘Hadspen Purple’ FLOWERING PERIOD: JULY – SEPTEMBER No, Lobelia isn’t just a bedding plant – among the innumerable varieties there are a few that will make wonderful front door specimens. Cold-hardy Lobelia × speciosa and its cultivars are clump-forming with upright, ramrod straight, habits, and rise to 50-80cm. The foliage is especially neat with symmetric leaves which often provide their own colour interest. ’Starship’, ‘Monet Moment’ and ‘Hadspen Purple’ are three of the best varieties that are good to grow in largeish pots and will offer an abundance of flowers in summer and autumn with thrilling, intense hues of red and purple. Work well in a large country-style dwelling with a large entrance. 14) Hellebore BOTANICAL NAME: Helleborus HARDINESS RATING: H7 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘HGC Wintergold’, ‘HGC Pink Frost’, ‘HGC Ice ’n’ Roses Red’ FLOWERING PERIOD: DECEMBER – MARCH We can’t leave you without proposing a superb plant that will light up your front door entrance in the dead of winter right into spring when little else can, and that too with seriously pretty blooms. And it’s an evergreen with very pretty leaves – they’re deeply divided as if carefully cut, of a rich deep green, and glossy. Hellebores are quite diverse and not many have attractive flowers that bloom nearly through winter into spring but at least some do: ‘HGC Wintergold’, ‘HGC Pink Frost’, ‘HGC Ice ’n’ Roses Red’, ‘Bob’s Best’, and ‘Harvington Rebekah’, all of which have lovely salver-shaped flowers. The first is not ‘gold’ but is pure white, the second is pink, the third, rose-red to maroon, the fourth, white with pink tints, and the fifth, pink picotee. Welcome your New Year’s Day guests with these little charmers at your front door! Suited to any home for the winter-spring season. The Variables You should be alert to the fact that if the colour of your blooms is very similar to the colour of the wall around your front door, the flowers will not stand out from the background. So if the wall by your front door is lilac, it wouldn’t do to set a plant with lilac-coloured flowers there! On the other hand, you also need to avoid clashing or disharmonious colour combinations. Likewise, even though the hues may be different, if the respective saturation levels or ‘tones’ of the background and the flowers are about the same, it will look as if the flower is ‘greyed out’ instead of standing out. We propose a good rule of thumb to get the colour and tone combinations right. First, choose complementary colours or opposite colours. If you don’t know these readily, simply look at a colour wheel. And second, pair colours in contrasty saturations. So if the wall is in a gentle, pastel shade, the flower should be in a vivid, intense shade, and vice versa. Habits & Hardiness We have tried to favour, though not limit ourselves to, hardy evergreens and each of our selections is hardy to H4 or greater except Dahlia, Gazania and Sweet Alyssum hardy to H3. We include classic specimen plants of an erect, upright habit, mounding and clumping ones, and trailing and ‘billowing’ forms as well. If you have built-in or inset planters on either side of your front door landing, you may especially appreciate our hardy evergreen selections.
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Defoliation: What To Do If Your Plant Suddenly Starts Losing A Lot Of Leaves
IN THIS GUIDE What Is It? The Causes What Happens After Identifying The Cause Finding A Solution References A tree or other plant suddenly and unexpectedly losing a lot of leaves can be shocking. Identifying the cause of defoliation can be challenging, but this article may help. In this article, we will introduce you to defoliation and its common causes, help you to identify the cause of the problem, and give you some tips that might help you save your plant – or, at the very least, reduce the chances of you having the same issue again in future. What Is It? Defoliation is the name given to plants losing all, or a large proportion of their leaves. This is sometimes also known as leaf loss, or leaf abscission. Leaf loss can be due to natural plant processes, stress factors which cause the plants to drop leaves as a form of plant defence, or external factors. If a tree, shrub or other plants in your garden suddenly becomes defoliated, you’ll need to play detective to try to determine the cause of the issue. The Causes First of all, remember that some plants will naturally lose their leaves as winter approaches. Deciduous plants lose their leaves in autumn, enter a period of dormancy over the coldest part of the year, then burst into new growth in the spring. So make sure that this defoliation is not simply a natural part of the lifecycle of the plant. If defoliation has occurred on plants that would not usually lose their leaves, or has occurred at a different time of year, there are a wide range of different things that could be to blame. Common causes include: Environmental issues (to do with temperatures or water). Grazing animals. Insect infestation. Diseases (fungal or bacterial). Fertiliser or herbicide contamination What Happens After A plant that loses some but not all of its leaves may eventually recover, though its growth will likely be stunted. However, in many cases with non-life cycle defoliation, if all the leaves are lost, the plant is unlikely to be able to make a comeback and unfortunately, will often die.1 Most plants need leaves to survive. The leaves are the ‘factories’ where photosynthesis occurs, where they use sunlight and carbon dioxide to create the energy reserves they need.2 Whether or not a plant can survive defoliation will depend on how many leaves have been lost, the type of plant, and when exactly the defoliation has occurred. Evergreen plants store a substantial part of their energy reserves in their leaves, so defoliation can often kill them because they not only lose their ‘factories’ but also their starch reserves.3 Deciduous plants, on the other hand, store reserves elsewhere, in stems, trunks and roots, so they can often withstand defoliation more easily. Deciduous trees and shrubs can tolerate the loss of up to half their leaves and will often survive. Even those which lose more than half of their leaves may make it through. However, if the defoliation occurs over multiple years, the trees will be weakened and will not survive further leaf loss. Sometimes, when defoliation happens on deciduous plants earlier in the growing season, plants have time to put out a second flush of growth to replenish energy supplies before winter. In the middle of the season, deciduous plants may not have time to recover. If defoliation has occurred not long before natural leaf drop, this may not be as much of an issue. Identifying The Cause The first thing to determine is whether environmental issues have led to defoliation. 1) Temperatures Extremely high and unexpectedly low temperatures can both cause this problem. So think about the temperatures that a given plant can be expected to survive, and look at whether the temperatures in your area have jumped outside of that range. 2) Water When it comes to environmental issues, water is another important thing to look at. Has there been extremely high rainfall, or a period of drought? Might you have watered your plant too much or too little? Too much water and too little can both cause defoliation in their own right – but note that they can also increase the likelihood of defoliation due to disease. Often, it can be difficult to determine whether water issues of disease are the actual cause of the defoliation – but in either case, the issue can often be traced back to water. If you have ruled out an environmental issue with temperature or water, think about whether the leaves fell off, or were eaten! 3) Pests Deer and rabbits can quickly eat a large number of leaves, and may make you think that these leaves simply dropped off if you do not catch them in the act. If you look out, you may well be able to see the foragers to blame in your area, and identify how and where they entered your garden. Leaves may also have been eaten by a wide range of insect pests, such as sawflies, grubs, caterpillars etc. There are a huge, huge range of pests that can quickly eat a lot of leaves, defoliating your plants. Narrowing down the list of potential culprits will involve, first of all, looking at the list of common pests for a particular plant species. The culprits themselves may still be around if you look closely at your plants. 4) Plant Diseases Unfortunately, trying to work out which particular disease plants may have is not always easy. Again, you can narrow down the likely diseases by looking at the most common issues for a particular plant. Finding A Solution If sudden temperature changes or weather extremes were to blame then unfortunately there is not likely to be much that you can do, other than simply waiting to see if your plant will recover. Mulch well around the base of your plant with organic matter to provide slow-release fertility to give it the best possible chance. If too much water was the problem, or waterlogged conditions have arisen, taking steps to improve drainage through adding organic matter or even moving the plant to a free-draining location could help improve the chances of recovery. If there has been a drought, obviously providing water will be a top priority. Look at changing the location of plants or improving the soil if you are seeing repeated issues of these sorts. If leaves have been eaten by deer or rabbits or other foraging creatures, take steps to protect your plants. Make boundary hedgerows or protective rings with plants which provide them with food, or which they will not eat, to distract them or encourage them to browse elsewhere, for example. You could even use physical barriers or tree guards where necessary. Insect pest numbers can be kept down in a number of ways in an organic garden. Pick off pests you do find on your plant by hand and take steps to apply integrated pest management in your garden. This means attracting wildlife for natural predation, boosting biodiversity and taking other steps to maintain balance in the ecosystem in an organic way. Some diseases can be managed with organic control, and mitigated with garden hygiene practices (like removing all infected leaves from the plants and from the ground). Others unfortunately are much more challenging to manage – treatment will very much depend on the specific species, and on the plant and disease in question. References 1. Atkinson, R. R. L., Burrell, M., Rose, K. E., Osborne, C. P., & Rees, M. J. (2014). The dynamics of recovery and growth: how defoliation affects stored resources. Proceedings of the Royal Society, 281(1783), 20133355. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2013.3355 2. Photosynthesis. (n.d.). National Geographic. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/photosynthesis/ 3. Leaves. (n.d.). Young People’s Trust for the Environment. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://ypte.org.uk/factsheets/leaves/why-do-some-trees-stay-green
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Sowing Kale: 'It's A Reliable Germinator - Even In Relatively Cool Spring Temperatures'
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Kale Seeds 1) Harvesting Kale Seeds 2) Fill Shallow Pots / Beds With Compost 3) Sow Seeds At A Depth Of 1cm 4) Growing On Kale, or borecole as it is sometimes known, is a highly nutritious and ornamental vegetable with a long harvesting season. Growing kale from seed can be very rewarding. It is easy to care for and its leaves can be picked for months on end during the colder months. “Kale is a reliable germinator and will do so in relatively cool spring temperatures,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Grown as both a micro-green or salad crop and as a mature autumn-winter crop, kale can be harvested for 9 months of the year if you sow successionally.” Here’s a simple process for growing kale from seed: Harvest seeds from the pods of existing plants, or purchase seeds from your chosen retailer. Fill shallow pots with a seed sowing compost. Plant seeds at a depth of 1cm. Growing the young plants on and planting out. This process is explained in more depth below. When To Sow Kale Seeds Kale can be rather slow growing and is often sown undercover or in a separate bed to save space from spring until early summer, to plant out later in the season. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, Seed or module trays, compost, rake if sowing outdoors When To Sow March, April, May When To Plant Out May, June 1) Harvesting Kale Seeds Kale seed is widely bought rather than collected as it is readily available to purchase and is often great value for money as there are quite often hundreds of seeds per packet. If you do want to harvest seed from a kale plant though, the plant needs to be allowed to over winter and produce flowers the following summer before the pods are formed and allowed to dry out, from which the seed can then be collected. 2) Fill Shallow Pots / Beds With Compost To sow kale seed, prefill a seed or module tray or shallow pot with a free-draining seed sowing mix or if sowing outdoors, rake the sowing site to a fine tilth and remove any weeds. 3) Sow Seeds At A Depth Of 1cm If sowing undercover, sow the kale seed thinly or individually if using a module tray at a depth of 1cm and water in gently – being careful not to disperse the seed. For sowing directly into the ground, prepare a shallow drill 1cm deep, with rows approximately 50cm apart if applicable and sow the seed sparingly before covering over and watering in. 4) Growing On Depending on the conditions, kale seeds usually germinate within 7–10 days from sowing, after which any crowded seedlings can be thinned out. Keeping the soil moist, allow the seedlings to develop into young plants with several pairs of leaves before either potting on or planting out in their final growing site around May or June. Kale requires a fertile soil to grow well and will benefit from some well-rotted manure added to the site before planting. When it comes to planting out, depending on your chosen cultivar the plants will need a final spacing of 40–60cm between them to allow them space to mature. Firm in, water thoroughly on planting and continue to do so, as kale prefers a moist soil and not to be allowed to dry out.
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Choosing French Bean Seeds To Sow - It's Best Done Between April And July
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing French Bean Seeds To Sow When To Sow French Beans Sowing French Beans Indoors Direct Sowing French Beans French beans are a popular crop, which can be grown for the green pod beans, used as a vegetable, or left to mature for the beans inside them, which can then be dried for later use as a pulse. These are very useful plants in the vegetable garden because not only are they fairly easy to grow – they also fix nitrogen, aiding other plants grown near them, or plants following them in rotation. To grow French beans from seed: Choose which French beans to grow. Sow seeds between April and July. Sow seeds indoors in late April or early May. Direct sow outdoors from late May onwards. Choosing French Bean Seeds To Sow Of course, there are many different French bean varietals that you might grow. The key thing to consider first is whether you are looking for a dwarf bean or climbing bean type. Dwarf beans can be great for containers of small spaces. They produce a yield more quickly, but also crop only over a short period of a few weeks. Climbing beans need supports, and do best in the ground. They take longer to reach harvestable stage, but will produce beans over a longer period, from mid-summer to early autumn if you pick them regularly. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, potting medium, containers (optional) When To Sow April – July Planting Aspect Full Sun / Sheltered When To Sow French Beans French beans can be sown between April and July. When you sow will largely depend on whether you can start crops indoors early in the year. Of course, when you sow will also depend at least in part on which type and cultivar you are growing. Sow indoors late April or early May, or outside, where they are to grow, from late May or early June onwards. You can successional sow dwarf French beans to prolong the length of the harvest, sowing in batches every couple of weeks for a staggered harvest. Sowing French Beans Indoors If you decide to sow French beans indoors (which can be easier because you won’t have pest problems). Sow the seeds into small pots or modules, one in each. The seeds should be sown within a peat-free seed starting compost mix, around 5cm deep. “I often get asked which way up to plant a bean seed,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “In 2020 and 2021, I conducted a small-scale trial of 500 bean seeds and concluded that it does not matter what way up or edge they are planted on, as long as they are not planted too deep or shallow; shallow being less than 3 times the width of the seed and deep being 3 times the length of the seed.” Place them in a heated propagator, or on a warm, sunny windowsill for germination to take place. Once they germinate (within a couple of weeks), water regularly and ensure light, bright conditions. Harden off indoors grown seedlings in May before planting them out into their final growing positions in late May or early June. Direct Sowing French Beans You can direct sow French beans as soon as the weather has warmed enough for this summer crop, typically also in late May or early June – or a little earlier if you are growing undercover or with cloches or other protection. If you are growing dwarf beans, it is best to sow these in blocks, 5cm deep and 15cm apart, rather than in rows, so they can support one another. Remember to sow in batches, a couple of weeks apart, to prolong the harvesting period. If you are growing climbing beans, it is best to place supports that are required before sowing. You might use canes or stakes, or trellis-type support.
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Expert Lathyrus Growers Share Sweet Peas Growing Tips Learnt Over Many Decades
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Annual Or Perennial? Sowing Guidelines When & How To Plant Sweet Peas Caring For Lathyrus Picking Flowers Common Pests & Diseases Saving Lathyrus Seeds References Sweet peas are without a doubt one of the most popular annual flowers grown in the UK. Beautiful, fragrant and useful, there are many reasons to grow them, or a perennial type, in your garden. We interviewed three expert growers of these plants especially for this guide: Carole Tate – The General Secretary of The National Sweet Pea Society. Phillip Kerton – Owner of Kerton Sweet Peas. Georgina – Owner of Sweet Pea Gardens. When questioned, Phillip cites the “range of colours and scent” as his reason for being so passionate about growing Sweet Peas, whilst Georgia puts it down to the plant’s “nostalgia, fragrance and pure prettiness.” These climbing plants are rightfully popular for their delicate pea flowers in a range of hues, and for their pleasing fragrance. As legumes, these plants can also be useful for their ability to co-operate with bacteria in their roots, which are able to take atmospheric nitrogen and make it available in the soil. Nitrogen is a key plant nutrient, so this is good news for plants placed in the spot after sweet peas, or, potentially, also for plants growing close by. These flowering plants are also great for bees and other pollinators, and can help with attracting other beneficial insect life to your garden. Overview Botanical Name Lathyrus Common Name(s) Sweet Peas Plant Type Annual / Perennial / Climber Native Area Europe – Cultivated Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Pea-like, deciduous Flowers Numerous hues Flowering Months June – October When To Prune February There are two main types of sweet pea, the common annual type and perennials. Annual sweet peas, Lathyrus odoratus, as gardeners know them today, were cross-bred and cultivated by Scottish plantsman Henry Eckford in the late 19th and early 20th Century.1 Bred from plants with purple flowers, in the wild, sweet peas are now available in a wide range of hues. While these are the sweet peas best known to most gardeners, there are also perennial types, often known as ‘everlasting peas’. These include cultivars of Lathyrus latifolius, L. grandiflorus, L. aureus, L. vernus, L. rotundifolius and L. nervosus, for example. Though these are not fragrant like the annual types, they will return year after year, bringing many benefits to your garden. Annual Or Perennial? The first decision you will have to make when growing sweet peas is whether the annual or perennial types are best for you. Annual sweet peas are an excellent choice for novice gardeners, and for sowing with kids. They can be a great choice for inclusion among the crops in an annual kitchen garden, for growing in pots or containers, or for a sunny mixed border. L. odoratus ‘Gwendoline’ There are over 50 cultivars of annual sweet pea which have been awarded with an RHS AGM. Just a handful of the great options to consider include: L. odoratus ‘Bobby’s Girl’ (pink) L. odoratus ‘Charlie’s Angel’ (purple) L. odoratus ‘Gwendoline’ (pink) L. odoratus ‘King Edward VII’ (red) L. ororatus ‘Mrs Bernard Jones’ (pink) L. odoratus ‘Blue Shift’ (purple and blue) “I love ‘Mrs Bernard Jones’ for the copious amounts of sugar pink ruffled flowers and sweet scent,” explains Georgina. “Another favourite of mine is ‘Blue Shift’. It is a fascinating variety that changes colour as it ages. “The flowers start out a purple colour and slowly morph into the most wonderful turquoise hues.” Perennial peas or everlasting peas do not need to be sown anew each year. As perennials, they can remain in your garden over a number of years. They can be a great choice for the sunny fringes of a forest garden or fruit tree guild, or for a herbaceous border. L. latifolius ‘Pink Pearl’ Some great perennial types to consider include: L. grandiflorus (deep pink, AGM). L. latifolius ‘White Pearl’ (white, AGM). L. latifolius ‘Rosa Pearl’ (pale pink, AGM). L. rotundifolius (deep pink/red, AGM). L. vernus ‘Alboroseus’ (pink and white, AGM). Sowing Guidelines Sweet peas, both annual and perennial, are typically sown either in spring, between March and May, or in autumn, in October or November. “I sow two batches of Sweet peas for my garden, one in October and the other in February, both under glass,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “This provides both some degree of insurance that at least one batch will be successful and two waves of flowers if both succeed.” Sweet peas are particularly easy to grow from seed, even for beginners, so it is unlikely that you will need to buy plants. However, if you wish to avoid this step you can also purchase plug plants in the spring. Germination rates are usually excellent, though you can help ensure germination by carefully nicking each seed with a knife, avoiding the ‘eye’ area – this is not usually required. Seeds can be sown in small, individual pots (3 seeds per 9cm pot), in soil blocks, or in seed trays – in good quality, seed-starting peat-free compost. Growing your seeds in cooler temperatures might also improve their success rate, Phillip explains: “When the seeds have germinated, grow them in cooler conditions. This will stop the plants from growing leggy.” “Sweet peas are hardy annuals and will withstand frost and snow,” advises Carol. “They sulk a bit but do not die. Mine are outside hardening off in March and I plant out in April (in Lancashire). “They can be planted earlier further south in the country, and usually May in Scotland (there is no point planting earlier as the soil is not warm enough and they will just sit until it warms up).” “Grow sweet peas close to a garden bench so you can sit and enjoy their colour and fragrance,” Georgina recommends. If you sow them in autumn, a frost-free place to keep them over the winter months is therefore preferred but not always essential. When & How To Plant Sweet Peas Indoors sown sweet peas should be hardened off before you place them outside. This simply means slowly acclimatising the young plants to outdoor growing conditions. Where To Plant Sweet peas can work well in a range of settings. Annual types can work well, as mentioned above, in a kitchen garden as a companion plant for annual crops. Perennial types work well in borders or the fringes of other polyculture planting schemes. Phillip from Kerton Sweet Peas suggests tilling your soil and removing any weeds before you plant out your Lathyrus in the chosen location for the best results. Both types can also be grown in containers. Spacing & Depth Plugs or pots (with three seedlings in each) should be spaced around 20cm apart, through precise spacing is not hugely important and you do not need to worry about too much about separating the individual plants from one another. Plant them to the same depth that they were in their previous container. Caring For Lathyrus Most sweet peas are not only incredibly easy to grow, but also very easy and straightforward to care for over time. Supports Most sweet peas require some form of support, whether that is other plants, a trellis or other support structure. Make sure you choose a support tall enough to support the particular variety or varieties that you wish to grow. But remember that you might be able to use natural or reclaimed materials and do not need to buy anything new. Most sweet peas are self-clinging climbers, which have tendrils which latch onto supports. However, there are some sweet peas that will need to be tied into support structures. Some perennial types have a different growth habit and don’t need support at all. Preferred Sunlight All sweet peas can cope with a little light shade, but most will do best in an open position in full sun. “I’ve always tried to grow sweet peas in my garden, but I’ve finally given up as they just don’t grow in my fully shaded garden,” shares the creator of Our Plant Stories Sally Flatman. Soil Requirements Sweet peas need a moisture retentive yet free draining soil or potting mix. They will thrive in loam or sand but can cope with a range of soil types and are unfussy about pH. They will not particularly like a heavy soil, and can rot in very heavy and very wet conditions, and a very dry and low-nutrient soil can also increase the chances of issues like powdery mildew setting in. But in most situations, sweet peas will remain largely hassle-free. Watering “Water, water, and water again to ensure your sweet peas do not dry out but make sure they are not waterlogged: free drainage is essential,” says Carole. Continue to water regularly when growing in pots or containers, through additional watering will only be required during very dry periods when sweet peas are growing in the ground. Temperature & Humidity Annual sweet peas are typically H3 hardy, meaning that they are hardy only in mild and coastal areas of the UK (down to -5 to 1°C.). They will however, thrive in the temperatures afforded in most UK gardens during the summer months. Fertilising Especially with annual sweet peas, it is a good idea to feed plants with an organic, potassium-rich plant feed once a week or so after the flowers begin to form, to promote strong and healthy flowering. This is especially beneficial when plants are growing in less fertile, lighter soils, or in pots. Perennial types can benefit from a mulch (such as comfrey leaves) around the base, though take care not to mound mulch around the stems. Dividing Larger, mature perennial peas can often be divided in spring or autumn, and the divisions can be carefully moved to new locations in your garden. Pinching Out When annual sweet pea plants sown in spring are around 10cm tall, you should pinch off the growing tips to encourage bushier growth. Autumn sown plants will usually branch naturally on their own. Pruning If you want the best blooms with long, straight stems, growing annual sweet peas as cordons will offer the best results. Select the strongest shoot and train it up a cane or tall stake, and pinch out all the other side shoots and tendrils when they appear. Perennial peas can be cut back to the ground in the autumn. But for the sake of garden wildlife, it is best to wait until February before perennials are cut back. The dead foliage and stems leave shelter for a range of creatures. Picking Flowers Sweet peas make great cut flowers. Flowers should be picked frequently, as this will encourage more to form and prolong the flowering season, Carole explains. “If they go to seed, they will stop flowering.” Common Pests & Diseases “If planted too close together, Sweet Peas can suffer from mildew and can also attract greenflies,” Carole from the National Sweet Pea Society explains. “I leave the greenflies on my sweet peas and let the ladybirds sort them out.” Sweet peas are not generally very difficult to grow successfully, but they can be very prone to slug damage, especially when young. “I surround my sweet pea beds with hosta leaves to divert any slugs and snails,” says Carole. Aphids can also be a problem for young plants. Powdery mildew can set in, especially if plants are under-watered. Viruses can also attack sweet peas, though this is not particularly common. Saving Lathyrus Seeds If you are growing annual sweet peas, saving the seeds is a good way to make sure you do not have to buy more seeds to enjoy these plants in your garden again the following year. Simply leave seed pods on the plants until they get dry and papery, then collect them on a dry day in autumn, shell them from the pods, and store them in a paper bag in a dry spot until you are ready to use them. References 1. Don, M. (1999, June 13). Sweet smell of excess. The Guardian. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/1999/jun/13/gardens
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Supporting Climbing French Beans - 'Hang At A Good Sheltered Harvestable Height'
IN THIS GUIDE Which French Beans Need Support? Support For Dwarf / Bush Beans Support For Climbing / Pole French Beans French beans are popular crops to grow in UK gardens. They can be relatively easy to grow, but choosing the right options and placing them in the right locations can be important. Just as important is providing the climbing varieties with the means to grow vertically. Which French Beans Need Support? One thing to think about when choosing which French beans to grow is how much space you have available. There are two main types of French bean that you might grow – dwarf beans, also known as bush beans, and pole beans, also called climbing beans. Bush beans are typically grown so that they support one another. They are best grown in blocks rather than rows and when grown in this way, they won’t typically need additional support or staking. However, sometimes it may be beneficial to place short twiggy sticks into the soil between the plants to keep them upright and make sure pods remain up off the ground. “I have grown bush beans in a hanging basket before, with the chains of the hanging basket giving some support,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “It looked great when the pods hung down over the basket. “The trick is to hang at a good sheltered harvestable height and keep them well watered.” Climbing beans, on the other hand, are much taller-growing plants, which do always require some kind of support or staking. Thinking about the options for this upfront is important, since you should have supports in place before you direct sow or plant out your French beans. Support For Dwarf / Bush Beans Smaller and lower-growing bush beans or dwarf beans can be grown without any support at all. However, this can lead to issues when plants flop, and pods touch the ground. You can however eliminate the need to place additional supports by growing these types of French bean close together, in blocks, so that the plants support one another. You can place the plants in grids, around 15cm apart from one another. Bush beans might also get a little support from companion plants, which provide structure to help keep plants upright and pods up off the ground. But if you feel the need to place additional support, the solution is simple and typically free. Simply take some natural twiggy branches from your garden or the surrounding area, and insert these in the soil between French bean plants (much as you might with peas) to give them a little additional support. Support For Climbing / Pole French Beans Climbing or pole beans grow much taller, and do need a sturdy support system. Traditionally, bamboo canes or natural straight branches from a garden are used to create a support structure. These are often inserted into the ground in two rows, then joined higher up to make an A or an X shaped framework. In smaller spaces, a wigwam shape of canes can be created, but joining a circle of canes together near the top. Plants will climb up each cane or branch, and should be spaced around 15cm apart. It can be beneficial to gently tie newly planted beans to the canes to get them started. “One common problem I see when gardeners want to harvest their beans is they find the growing support or twine is too close together,” adds Dan. “When constructing your growing support, I recommend allowing enough distance for reaching between and cutting out your harvest.” However, one interesting alternative to a man-made support structure for climbing beans is using other plants as support. In the famous ‘three sisters’ companion planting scheme, beans are planted at the base of sweetcorn, and use the corn as a support. The beans provide nitrogen for the system, and the third sister, squash, protects the others and provides ground cover around the area to conserve moisture and suppress weed growth. So thoughtful companion planting to provide support could be another option to consider.
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You Can Harvest French Beans Over A Long Period, But These Guidelines Are Important
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest French Beans Harvesting Green Beans As A Vegetable Harvesting Immature Shelling Beans Harvesting Mature Beans & Drying As A Pulse French beans, Phaseolus vulgaris, are a varied type of bean commonly grown in UK gardens. While typically, UK gardeners will harvest the pods as a green vegetable, these plants also yield seeds that are eaten at the immature stage as beans. They can also be dried for later use as a pulse. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening scissors (optional) When To Harvest July – September (and sometimes later) Here are some basic things to know about the French bean harvest: Harvest French Beans from July to September, and perhaps longer into autumn. The time for which you will harvest depends on the type you are growing. You can find varieties of green beans or shelling beans. Begin to harvest green beans when these are around 10cm long. Some shelling beans are harvested when green and immature – while some are harvested at the end of the season, for drying. French beans are a crop that can potentially be harvested over a long period. See below for more detailed insight depending on the type of green beans you’re looking to harvest – When To Harvest French Beans Most French beans are harvested sometime between July and September. However, when precisely you can harvest, and how long you will be able to harvest from a plant, will depend on which type and variety you are growing. The first thing to consider is whether you are growing dwarf or bush beans, or a climbing or pole bean type. Bush beans typically provide a harvest for a few weeks, while climbing beans take longer to come to harvest, but will typically yield over a much longer period when the green beans are picked regularly. It is also important to think about the specific cultivar or cultivars you are growing. In the UK, most gardeners grow French beans that yield edible pods. But some cultivars are not grown primarily for their pods, but rather for seeds that form within them. Seed beans are harvested while young in some varieties. In others, they are left to mature fully, and then dried as a pulse. So when precisely you harvest will depend on the specific French beans you are growing, and which part of the plant you plan to eat. Harvesting Green Beans As A Vegetable As mentioned above, the most common harvest from French beans are the pods, used as a vegetable. Typically green, these also come in shades of purple, yellow etc. There are many interesting cultivars to consider. If you are growing a French bean variety for green beans, then you will typically begin to pick the pods when these are around 10cm long. The pods, when ready for harvest, should snap easily, and they should not have visible beans forming within them. You should be able to easily use a finger and thumb to break through the top of the bean pod and remove it from the plant, but you can also snip them off with gardening scissors if you prefer. “One common problem I see when gardeners want to harvest their beans is they find the growing support or twine is too close together,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. “I recommend allowing enough distance for reaching between and cutting out your harvest.” It is important to keep an eye on your plants and to harvest regularly, since repeated harvesting should encourage new beans to form – for a few weeks for dwarf types and for much longer with climbing varieties. Harvesting Immature Shelling Beans With some cultivars, French beans are grown for seeds that are shelled from their pods and eaten while immature. With these types, you will harvest when the pods plump out and you can see the forms of the beans within. You can, again, simply break or cut off the pods, then shell the beans within to use in your recipes. Harvesting Mature Beans & Drying As A Pulse Other cultivars are chosen for use as a pulse crop. When growing these types, you will leave the beans in the pods until they mature towards the end of the season. With many types of shelling bean, you will wait until the pods begin to turn brown and dry, the shell the seeds from the dry pods. These beans can then be dried out some more, then stored for later use. So when thinking about harvesting French beans, it is important to consider what yield you are after, and which type you are growing. When you are clear on the specific variety, you can find out what these should look like at the harvesting stage, and make sure that you harvest in the right way, and at the optimal time.
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French Beans Plant Care For Bumper Harvests With Emily Cupit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Guidelines Plant Care Storage Common Types References French beans are a great addition to a homegrown vegetable plot. French beans, or green beans, are commonly cultivated through temperate and subtropical regions as an annual crop. This is a crop which can provide a range of benefits. As a legume, French beans provide not only an edible yield, but also help to maintain fertility in your garden. Like other legumes, they have formed a symbiotic relationship with bacteria in their roots which take nitrogen from the air and make it available in the soil.1 Some of that nitrogen is used by the plant themselves, but some may be available for the uptake of neighbouring plants, or for plants which follow the beans in rotation. Overview Botanical Name Phaseolus vulgaris Common Name(s) French Beans, Green Beans Plant Type Annual / Vegetable / Climber Native Area Americas – Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2/H3 Foliage Three oval smooth-edged leaflets Flowers White, pink or purple When To Sow / Plant April – July Harvesting Months July – September French beans, also known as common beans, are cultivars of Phaseolus vulgaris. A herbaceous annual plant, this crop is most commonly grown in the UK for the tender pods, eaten before the seeds inside develop (often called green beans). These plants however can also be left to grow on for a yield of dry beans which can be taken from the pods at maturity. Cultivars produce many familiar dried beans, such as the haricot, kidney bean, cannellini bean and pinto bean for example. These are pulses which can be a valuable addition to a homegrown diet – so growing types for a yield of dry beans could also be an interesting thing to consider in your garden. Planting Guidelines Climbing beans are ideal for garden growing. They do best in the ground with sturdy supports, though they can also be grown in larger containers. Dwarf or bush types are great where space is limited, and do very well in containers. They can also work well in hanging baskets or other suspended containers. Spacing & Depth Sow French beans around 5cm deep, placing each one into a small pot, module or soil block if sowing indoors, or spacing around 15cm apart if direct sowing. If planning on growing on your beans in a container, containers should be 30-45cm wide for dwarf types, and 75cm wide and 45cm deep for climbing varieties. Hardening Off From the end of May or in early June (depending on your location and the weather conditions) harden off your young plants to get them used to outdoors conditions. This simply means gradually moving them outside – gradually exposing them to outdoors conditions for increasing lengths of time over a couple of weeks. Land Preparation If you are growing climbing types which need support, it is best to get this support in place before sowing or planting out. There are various different support options which you could consider. Choose a suitable location for your French beans, and prepare the soil by top dressing with plenty of homemade compost or well-rotted manure. Make sure the area is weed-free, and water well. Planting Out If you are not direct sowing, indoors grown plants can be planted out (after the hardening-off process). As when direct sowing, make sure you wait until the conditions are reliably frost-free, and aim for a spacing of around 15cm between plants. Make sure that you water the plants well before and after planting out. With climbing beans, place the plants at the base of the support structure or structures you have installed and tie them in loosely with natural twine. Plant Care French beans are relatively easy to grow as long as you place them in the right location and meet all of their basic needs. Watering French beans have relatively high water requirements and will provide the highest yields when watered regularly. Remember, if growing in containers, more frequently watering will generally be required. Soil & Feeding Mulching around your French beans will help retain soil moisture, and will also help with fertility and weed control. A mulch of high-quality homemade compost, worm castings or well-rotted manure will be ideal. Light French beans should be grown in a location in full sun, which receives as much light as possible throughout the summer months. Pollination French beans are self-pollinated and are rarely insect pollinated. Cross-pollination is rarely an issue for these plants. “Pollen is typically released the night before the flower opens and the next day, the anthers and stigma typically make contact as the flower opens,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. Weeding Weeding around French beans is important. Keep the surrounding soil covered with mulch, or consider planting ground cover companion plants, which will not compete overly with the beans for water and nutrients. French beans can be excellent companion plants for a range of other crops, due to their nitrogen-fixing capability. “French beans will rarely enrich the soil with nitrogen for other plants to access, as they use the nitrogen they fix for their own crop production,” adds Dan. “However, they will not normally reduce the soil’s nitrogen levels which is very useful if you are practising crop rotation.” “For a companion planting tip, I advise not planting Tagetes species (marigolds) near nitrogen fixers as some studies suggest it affects their root ability to fix nitrogen.” One of the most famous companion planting combinations involves growing climbing beans alongside corn and squash. This beneficial combination is called the ‘three sisters’ companion planting scheme.2 The corn is the supporting sister, giving support to the beans. The beans fix nitrogen, and the squash provides ground cover, for moisture retention and weed control. Beans can also be beneficial companion plants for a number of other crops – especially green leafy vegetables with high nitrogen needs, as Gerald Stratford, the King of Veg, explains: “You can grow French beans with runner beans and courgettes, but honestly, if you see a plant you want to grow with your beans, have a go. “It’s better to have a go and fail than not have a got at all.” Storage If you are not eating your green beans right away, you can store them (unwashed) in the crisper drawer of your fridge for up to a week or so. If you wish to freeze your green beans, blanch them by boiling them for 2-3 minutes, then plunging then into icy water. Once blanched, place them in the freezer in sealed containers. They should keep well for around 8-10 months. Shelled beans should be fully dried, then placed in airtight containers. Common Types French beans are typically divided into two categories: climbing beans, and dwarf or bush beans. The former grow tall, usually requiring some support, while the latter have a bushier, shorter form and do not always need a trellis or staking. Some great climbing beans to consider include: ‘Abundance’ ‘Algarve’ (AGM) ‘Blue Lake’ ‘Cherokee Trail of Tears’ ‘Cobra’ (AGM) ‘Golden Gate’ (AGM) ‘Neckarkonigin’ And some good dwarf types to consider include: ‘Aquilon’ ‘Boston’ (AGM) ‘Elba’ ‘Lilana’ ‘Purple Teepee’ (AGM) ‘Sprite’ (AGM) ‘Tendergreen’ If you would like to harvest dry beans rather than green beans try: ‘Borlotto Lingua di Fuoco’ ‘Jacob’s Cattle Gold’ ‘Lingot’ ‘Mor Kristin’ ‘Oro’ ‘Taylor’s Dwarf Horticultural Long Pod’ (‘October Bean’) ‘Yin Yang’ References 1. Wagner, S. (2011b). Biological Nitrogen Fixation. The Nature Education Knowledge Project. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.nature.com/scitable/knowledge/library/biological-nitrogen-fixation-23570419/ 2. Kruse-Peeples, M. (2016, May 27). How to Grow a Three Sisters Garden. Native-Seeds-Search. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.nativeseeds.org/blogs/blog-news/how-to-grow-a-three-sisters-garden
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