Growing
How To Grow Swiss Chard For A Continuous Supply Of Tasty Greens For Months On End
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Commonly Grown Cultivars When & Where To Plant Chard Plant Care Growing Chard In Pots Common Pests & Problems Both the brilliant green leaves and the bright red stalks of Swiss Chard have their own rich flavours which vary from cultivar to cultivar. This useful veg is easy to grow and is prolific enough to provide a continuous supply of tasty greens for months on end. Ruffled, puckered leaves in a brilliant or rich shade of green bisected by a colourful petiole that is quite often a bright, popping red will decorate your garden if you grow Swiss Chard. Overview Botanical Name Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla Common Name(s) Chard, Swiss Chard, Silver Beet, Leaf Beet, Seakale Beet, Beet Spinach, Perpetual Spinach, and Ruby Chard Plant Type Biennial Native Area Sicily and the Mediterranean Region Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Scalloped and puckered leaves of a bright or deep green Flowers Spike-like sprays of green, yellow or pink florets When To Sow April and mid-July-to-mid-August are most advisable Harvesting Months June, early July, and mid-September through frost are best Cut Back July or August If you haven’t heard of Swiss Chard, perhaps you know it by another name. This leafy green – rather like a private eye – goes around by many an alias. Some of the more well-known ones are Silver Beet, Leaf Beet, Seakale Beet, Beet Spinach, Perpetual Spinach, and Ruby Chard. As for Chard’s ‘given name’ – it’s quite a mouthful. You see, this vegetable is a sub-species of beetroot, the root vegetable. Beetroot’s botanical name is Beta vulgaris, so Chard’s (rather lengthy) botanical name is Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla. One could describe Chard as bridging spinach and kale. Its several cultivars have sufficiently varying flavours to please spinach-lovers and kale-lovers…and quite possibly also those who do not like either spinach or kale! Commonly Grown Cultivars Not very many Chard cultivars are commonly grown or available but from those that are we have selected half-a-dozen of the best. All but the first are recipients of the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. Chard cultivars vary in colour, taste, and other characteristics as well. However, almost all of them grow to 40-50cm in height, and to 23-30cm in spread. ‘Perpetual Spinach’ is identified by its very name as a cultivar that you can be assured of harvesting on a continuing basis. It is more spinach-like than most Chards and makes a fine spinach substitute. This variety keeps particularly well, and can be refrigerated longer than most others, and is the best one to store frozen. “‘Perpetual Spinach’ is my favourite chard because of its little and often mode of harvesting,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It also has a very long harvesting season from late spring well into autumn. It’s taste and use in the kitchen are very much like that of spinach.” ‘Rhubarb Chard’ or ‘Ruby Chard’ is the cultivar that gives Swiss Chard its reputation for ornamental value. Though the leaves are tasty enough, this variety is probably one for decorative value: the scallopy, wavy leaves are a brilliant, deep shade of green while the petioles, midribs and even the veins are an equally vivid ruby red. ‘Fantasy’ splits the difference between taste and ornamentation. It has ruffled bright green leaves and also bright red petioles and veining. It is very flavourful but with a pleasingly mild taste without any ‘bite’. It is perhaps the best variety for eating raw in salads. ‘Canary Yellow’ is also ornamental and tasty but in a different way. The leaves are of a rich, bright green colour while the petioles and midribs are bright yellow. It has a heavier, more ‘substantial’ taste with a touch of pepper or bitter, making it an excellent cooking variety. ‘Lucullus’ is an heirloom variety that is well known to be prolific. Its strengths are heavily skewed towards taste rather than ornamentation. The yellowish-green leaves are as tasty as any green vegetable. The petioles are ‘merely’ white but they too are tasty and juicy, and make a very good asparagus substitute. It does not tolerate overly-wet soil. ‘Fordhook Giant’ is also an heirloom variety that is renowned for its vigorous growth. It is also particularly hardy and the most frost-resistant, allowing the gardener to harvest leaves through winter so long as the ground is not frozen over. Its leaves are almost the colour of kale while its stems and petioles are creamy white. It is strongly flavoured and is great for cooked dishes. When & Where To Plant As average frost dates vary very widely in the United Kingdom it is not possible to specify a single timeframe for the whole country for planting Chard. The Chard-growing season will be more constrained in northern regions and in colder zones because you must plant seeds later in the season and you must make your final harvest before the first frost of the season. For the most part, in England and Wales Chard seeds can be sown from the beginning of April through early September though it is not advisable to plant this vegetable during May and June. Though you can plant seeds about ten days before the last expected frost date, we suggest that you wait out the last frost of the season and then sow seeds. You can sow Chard seeds up to about ten weeks before the season’s first expected frost. As a general rule, plant Chard at the top of spring and the end of summer with April and mid-July-to-mid-August being the best time periods. By all means, allow your spring-planted Chard plants to grow through summer but it is not a good idea to plant Swiss Chard for growing during the summer months. Though one can harvest on a continuing basis from Swiss Chard plants, one can practise succession sowing with this vegetable. Chard Plant Care For the specifics of Chard plant care, please see the following sections. Soil Conditions Chard likes nutrient-rich, fertile soil that has been well cultivated. Any type of loam will do so long as you till it well and deeply, and work in ample organic compost or well-rotted manure. The soil should drain very well. The ideal soil pH is slightly acidic, that is with a pH of 6.1 to 6.5. Of course, there is some leeway and anything from moderately acidic to neutral will work out. Thinning As the seedlings grow, one necessary care task is to thin the young plants. When the plants are young, between 5-10cm tall, thin them to about 25cm apart. Do so by cutting off the plants at the base. If you pull them up, be very careful not to disturb the shallow roots of the adjacent young plants! The thinned Chard plants should not be composted or thrown away – they will make tasty additions to salads and stir-fries. Preferred Aspect Swiss Chard should be sited in full sun. A few hours of shade is fine but the more sun the plant gets, the better the crop. Any aspect will do but it should be grown in a sheltered location. Watering & Feeding Water the plants regularly but in moderation. Aim to water about twice a week such that the planting area is kept moist – it should not be soaked through and through. When and how you feed the plants depends on when you sowed the seeds and on the quality of your soil. As a general rule, feed the plants 20-25 weeks after sowing. If your soil is nutrient-rich to begin with then simply work in a small quantity of organic compost or well-rotted manure into the soil around the plant. If not, then feed the plants with a fertiliser. Blood, Fish & Bone is a very good option if your soil is poor. We suggest organic vegetable liquid fertiliser, appropriately diluted, as the easy alternative. Weeding Check the planting area for weeds regularly as they will affect the growth and vitality of Chard plants. Consider mulching around the plants to suppress weed growth. Avoid using any chemical weed killers near Chard (or any other edibles). Winter Care In preparation for winter lay mulch to about 15cm. Do so right after you have made your final harvest of the season; do not wait until the frost. An organic mulch of compost, leaves, and pine needles will serve the purpose very well. If you live in the frigid zones of the north and you want to be sure of protecting your Chard plants, besides mulching them, consider building a low tunnel over them. Growing Chard In Pots You can grow a single plant to a small pot though if you want to grow multiple plants in a larger container or in a planter, sow seeds at least 5cm apart and thin later, or simply space the seeds in keeping with the spread of the mature plant in the first place. The latter alternative is perfectly viable considering how reliably Chard seeds germinate. Fill pots or containers with organic compost or a rich potting soil. Pots or containers should have drainage holes. Water the soil after sowing so that it becomes damp. Keep watering regularly but in moderation so that the soil stays moist to damp. The soil should not become waterlogged. Guard against overwatering. As with growing Chard in open ground, the pots should be placed in a sunny but sheltered location. Common Pests & Problems Chard is seldom troubled by any of the usual pests and diseases that affect vegetables. The plants are quite often eaten by slugs. They are nocturnal creatures so if you go out in the morning and see tears and holes in your Chard, suspect slugs. Deer also find Chard very nice to nibble on. If you are growing Chard during a hot summer, you need to be aware of a few caveats. It will grow noticeably slower than it does in temperate weather, and the leaves will become bitter more quickly and will need to be harvested much earlier than normal. Finally, be watchful as the plants may bolt, leaving you high and dry.
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Sowing Garden Peas: Either Start Them Indoors In Trays Or Direct Sow Outside
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Sowing Indoors in Trays 2) Prepare The Planting Site 3) Sowing In Open Ground 4) Water In If anyone tells you that they don’t much care for Garden Peas, you can draw a sound conclusion with a high degree of probability: that person has eaten frozen or tinned peas, but not garden-grown ones. Peas fresh from the garden have a rich taste and satisfying mouth-feel that cannot remotely be rivalled by commercially-produced alternatives. So how good do they taste? Well, many gardeners who are picking their Garden Peas cannot help shelling a few pods and enjoying fresh-off-the-vine peas on the spot! You may do so too – no, you will do so too – if you grow Garden Peas in your yard. Difficulty Moderate Equipment Required Gardening gloves, trowel or flat hand spade, draw hoe, seed tray When To Sow March or April through June Planting Aspect Full Sun / Sheltered / South-Facing Garden Peas are not difficult to grow if you follow these steps: Sow indoors in trays Prepare the planting site Transplant (or sow in open ground) Water in This process is explained in more depth below. 1) Sowing Indoors in Trays You face a choice when you want to sow garden peas: sowing seeds indoors in trays or directly outdoors. If you live in a region where spring weather is late to arrive and the growing season is abbreviated, we suggest you sow seeds in trays and then transplant out in open ground. If you live in a region where the ground is not cold and soggy by early April, then sow directly outdoors. In most regions of the UK except the few warmest ones, you can sow garden peas until June. If you sow seeds indoors do so in trays. When it is time to transplant the seedlings in your garden, you can cut them down along each end of the tray to release the block of plants or scoop them out for ease and efficiency. Peas hate root disturbance, which is why we do not recommend separating out individual plants. After preparing your planting site, you can dig out a similar divot and simply transplant the full row of seedlings. A narrow trowel or flattish hand spade is perfect for the purpose. Water in the transplanted divot-row. Such transplanting may be done around the last frost of the season. 2) Prepare The Planting Site Whether or not you sow directly into open ground or transplant later, you need to choose a good site and prepare the soil. Do not sow Garden Peas in ground where you have grown Garden Peas or any other legume in any of the previous two seasons. The planting site should be sited in full sun but must be sheltered. A southerly aspect is best otherwise an east-facing or west-facing spot should be chosen. A mixed loam amended with a generous amount of organic compost or well-rotted manure will do very well. The ground must drain well, otherwise consider improving drainage or sowing in a raised bed. Soil pH level should be between 6.1 and 7.3 – slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. Garden Peas will not grow very well if the soil pH is outside the recommended range. 3) Sowing In Open Ground Depending on your location in the UK, any time from mid-March to mid-April a week or two before the last expected frost date and when the ground is not overly cold or wet, you can start to sow Garden Peas seeds. In the UK you can sow Garden Peas seeds until June and grow them until about October (so long as you do not live in a warm region and get struck by a heatwave!). If your ground does not drain well or if you live in a very wet region, make a raised bed. Sow seeds at a depth of 2.5-3cm, and spaced by about 7cm. Traditionally, this is done by pulling a draw hoe through the soil to create a flat-bottomed trench up to 5cm deep. The base can be watered and seeds then be placed at their correct spacing. Cover the seeds with soil, such as by raking loose soil over the top, and pat it down; do not pack it in. “As well as trays, lengths of guttering make an ideal option for sowing peas into,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Drill base holes at 5-10cm intervals and cap the ends before filling with moisture-retentive compost. Sow at the same spacing, 7cm apart, usually in a double or staggered row. “Once the plants are 15cm high and the weather is favourable, the plants can simply be slid out of the guttering into a prepared trench of the same size and depth.” Rows should be spaced from 20-60cm apart; exactly how much depends on the ultimate size of the Garden Peas cultivar that you are planting. The greater the height and spread, the wider the spacing. 4) Water In Water the sown area. Accounting for rain, Garden Peas should get 2-3cm of water per week. The trick is never to let the soil dry out completely nor to let it get waterlogged – a continuous level of moisture will suit these plants best. Soon after seedlings sprout apply a layer of organic mulch around them. When the plants are flowering and when they are developing pea pods, the amount of water should be increased. It is important to monitor soil moisture during this phase of the plant’s growth. You do not need to use a moisture meter but do eyeball the ground and push a finger 2-3cm into the soil to be certain that the soil has sufficient moisture beneath the surface.
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Garden Pea Plants Over 80cm Will Need To Use One Of These Support Methods
IN THIS GUIDE Method 1: Netting Method 2: Staking Method 3: Free-Standing Support Dwarf varieties of Garden Peas need little to no support, but bushy ones may or may not depending on their respective habits and sizes, and tallish climbing vines really should be supported. As a guideline, varieties that grow to less than 50cm should not require much support, while those that rise to 80cm and above should be supported. Anything in between is a judgement call. We outline three methods by which you can support your Garden Pea plants. Method 1: Netting You can find several kinds and designs of netting identified as ‘Trellis Netting,’ ‘Vine Netting,’ or ‘Netting Support for Vines.’ This type of netting should be hung, vertically, quite close to the plant. It may be hung from the roof’s rafters, off a garden cabana, or on a simple for-purpose frame. “You could make a rectangular frame with legs by tying four canes together tightly,” suggests Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. We suggest you set up your netting at any point from the time you sow Garden Peas seeds to when the little plants get to be about 20cm in height. As the little plants grow, they will readily start to climb via their tendrils up the netting and be supported by it, avoiding the need to tie them in. Method 2: Staking You can support vines with four bamboo canes or with three. If you use four canes then they should be arranged in the form of a square that will enclose the plant. Drive the canes into the ground so that they are firmly set. Each side should measure about half the eventual spread of that variety. If you use three canes then fuse, nail, tie or staple them together at one end with the other ends splayed outward. The objective is to make a frame like an elongated triangle-based pyramid; a frame resembling a three-sided letter ‘A’. Place this over the spot where the plant will emerge and push the canes into the ground. In each case you may wet the soil and pack it around the base of the canes to ensure firmness and rigidity. In either case tie twine tightly around the lower parts of the framework, and soon after the seedlings emerge, train them on the twine if necessary though their tendrils will likely ‘find’ the supports. Thereafter, tie twine, tightly, all the way up the framework every 20cm or so. If the twine slips, make lateral notches in the canes. We strongly recommend against driving canes or stakes close to even a growing plant (let alone a mature one) – doing so may damage or sever the roots. Canes may be driven into the ground at the time of sowing the seeds or soon thereafter. If transplanting, place supports in the ground immediately thereafter. You will know where you can insert the canes such that they are away from the very narrow root system. “For dwarf varieties, some support is still a good idea to stop the plants from becoming a tangled mess,” says Peter. “Driving lengths of woody prunings, that are around 50cm long, into the ground gives a loose framework. “If these stems have branches, even better, as peas can attach to these too.” Method 3: Free-Standing Support You can set up a free-standing trelliswork support at any time in the plant’s lifecycle so long as the support is not fully enclosed and has an open design. An arched pergola is a very good option. One person should simply lift up the vine, which may even be overgrown, while another sets the support in place after which the vine can be draped on the support. “Supports may have their own feet or spikes to drive in the ground, or a cane can be threaded through alternate sides of a flexible trellis or mesh at 1m intervals,” Peter adds. The plant’s tendrils will happily grip the trelliswork in short order. Wet the soil under the support and cake some mud around it to firm it up. Such a support should also be sufficiently heavy and have a low centre of gravity. Otherwise, when the free-standing support is covered by a bushy climber, a blustery wind can blow it over. Therefore, if necessary, tie it down or weigh it down. U-shaped pegs can be driven in along the bottom row of trellis for support.
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Harvesting Courgettes: 'Pick Regularly' Advise Gardeners, It'll Encourage New Fruits To Form
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Courgettes How To Harvest Courgettes Storing & Using Courgettes References Courgettes can be a wonderful crop to grow at home in your garden. They are relatively easy to grow and, as you will soon find out if you grow them where you live, they can provide a bountiful harvest. Here is the basic information that you need to know about harvesting courgettes from your garden: Harvest courgettes between June and October. Pick regularly to encourage further fruits to form. Pick courgettes when they are smaller (around 10-12.5cm long) for the best flavour. Simply cut through the stem to separate the fruit from the plant. Don’t forget about secondary yields – courgette flowers and leaves are also edible. Homegrown courgettes can be delicious, but there is one note of caution to beware of. On rare occasions, seeds can be produced from cross-pollination with nearby plants from the same family of Cucurbits such as squashes or pumpkins and fruits grown from this seed can be toxic.1 So only ever harvest and eat courgettes if you have grown them from certified seeds, or your own seed if you are certain that cross-pollination has not occurred. If courgettes have any note of bitterness at all – don’t eat them. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife When To Harvest June – October When To Harvest Courgettes Courgettes can be ready to harvest from as early as late June, and can continue to produce fruits until the autumn, often right up until the first frosts. Typically, you will be able to harvest the first fruits around 6-8 weeks after planting. Courgette fruits form on female flowers, after these are pollinated and pollen transferred from the male flowers. Male flowers typically form first and you may well see several male flowers before the first female flowers appear. The first harvest that you might obtain from a courgette plant will not necessarily be an actual courgette. Once the female flowers have begun to form fruit, you might decide to harvest excess male flowers, since these are a secondary edible yield from the plant. These are often stuffed and eaten, although it is best to remove the stamens carrying the pollen from inside the flower first. You will typically harvest the first fruit when these grow to around 10-12cm long. While the fruits will continue to grow after this, the taste of these younger, smaller fruit is typically much better, and the courgettes will seem watery and often lack flavour when they get too much larger. “It’s incredibly easy to miss courgettes when harvesting and allow them to become oversized as they grow so quickly,” says Roy Nicol, a Horticultural Consultant. “These are known as marrows but they can still be used to make bread or muffins, so it’s never too late to cut them off.” You should try to keep on top of the harvesting, and make sure you pick fruits when they reach around this size, because doing so will help make sure that the plant keeps going, and further fruits are produced. Another thing to note is that throughout the growing season, it can be beneficial to remove the odd leaf here or there to open up the plant and let sunlight into the fruits to help them mature. Removing the odd leaf can also help ensure good airflow around the plants and reduce the chances of a problem like powdery mildew taking hold. The good news is that these leaves are another additional harvest. While leaves can get too tough and a bit too bitter when they are more mature, smaller and more tender courgette leaves can be useful as a cooked green vegetable. Take the odd male flower and the odd leaf here and there, and keep picking the fruit while they are quite young, and your courgette plant should keep producing for several months. How To Harvest Courgettes To harvest courgettes, simply reach down into the plant, pull the leaves gently aside so you can see what you are doing and find the fruit. Then just cut these through the stem to sever them from the plant with a clean, sharp pair of secateurs or a gardening knife. If you can, it is best to harvest early in the day when the water content is highest and the fruits are at their juiciest. Though courgettes won’t keep very long, so try to make sure that you will be ready to use or process them as soon as possible after you have harvested. Courgette flowers will certainly need to be used on the day you harvest them. Storing & Using Courgettes Courgettes that are young, tender and tasty won’t last long once harvested. You should keep them for up to an absolute maximum of 1 week at 10°C. and a high humidity of 90-95%. However you should usually aim to use them on the same day, or within a few days at most. It is best not to keep courgettes in the fridge as they are sensitive to cold and can go mushy. Instead, if you cannot use your courgettes right away, it is best to freeze them – either raw or cooked. Another option is to dry courgettes, though this can be tricky if you don’t have an electric dehydrator. You can also pickle your courgettes, or use them in a wide range of other preserves which can be canned for storage. When canned using a trusted recipe, courgettes can be kept for much longer periods – months and even a year or so. Even if working out what to do with a glut of courgettes can sometimes be a challenge, by looking into preserving, you can make sure that none of your harvest goes to waste. References 1. Dowling, T. (2021, July 24). Tim Dowling: which courgette is the evil poisoner, yellow or green? The Guardian. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2021/jul/24/tim-dowling-which-courgette-is-the-evil-poisoner-yellow-or-green
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Ouch! These 9 Spiky Plants Will Add An Interesting Edge To Garden Displays
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Yucca 2) Trachycarpus wagnerianus 3) Chamaerops humilis 4) Phormium tenax 5) Aloe polyphylla 6) Eryngium planum ‘Blue Sea Holly’ 7) Agave americana 8) Opuntia howeyi 9) Nolina nelsonii References Bring a touch of tropical charm to your garden with these spiky specimens. There’s something about a spiky plant that instantly suggests humid temperatures and exotic climes. Of course, many cacti, succulents, palms and their other prickly comrades only grow in hot and arid landscapes, so it’s only logical that they carry with them connotations of a tropical paradise. On the other hand, it may surprise you to learn that there are a handful of these spiky specimens that have adapted well to the Great British climate. Although they may be natives of warmer regions and prefer the heat, they can cope well enough with a sharp fall in mercury, many of them surviving sub-zero temperatures with ease. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t take precautions to protect them as best as possible. Potted varieties can be moved indoors or into a greenhouse during winter, while polytunnels are also an effective tool in keeping them safe from the more inclement elements. However, on the whole, this collection of sharp-edged plants are hardy enough to handle anything the colder months throw at them. So if you’re considering adding an edge to your outdoor display, look no further than the nine suggested specimens below. 1) Yucca Yucca recurvifolia Hailing from Mexico, this striking plant takes the form of a spiky ball atop a chunky trunk, with the potential for more than a single trunk to develop in the right conditions. With some species capable of reaching 2m in height, it’s a perfect way to make a statement with stature in your garden. The leaves of the tree are long, sharp and extend in all directions away from the central sphere at the top of the trunk. Depending on the species, they can take on a grey or bluish tinge to their greenery, with yellow variegations possible as well. This makes them an excellent option for adding colour and intrigue to their surroundings. Best of all, Y. linearifolia (pictured above) are hardy up to -15°C, meaning they should survive the extremes of winter even in the most northern parts of the country. As long as they enjoy a sunny location with soil that drains freely, they’ll be happy enough. 2) Trachycarpus wagnerianus A close relative of T. fortunei, this oriental specimen has been favoured by Japanese horticulturalists for generations due to the neatness of its architectural form. They were first brought to the UK in 1873 by Albert Wagner (hence their name) and have steadily grown in popularity since.1 Unlike most palms, T. wagnerianus actually thrive in windy conditions, though a coastal one which is constantly buffeted by gales may be asking too much of them. Aside from demanding good drainage, however, they’re a largely unfussy species which will need attentive hydration immediately upon planting, but can tend to themselves thereafter. In terms of appearance, they’re compact creatures which tightly fanned leaves of dark green, growing atop a hairy trunk that can exceed 5m in height. Although they cope better in containers than some other Trachycarpus, they’re ultimately better suited to being planted in the earth. 3) Chamaerops humilis Speaking of palm trees, no list of spiky plants that can handle UK temperatures would be complete without a mention of the only palm that’s native to Europe. Known as the European fan palm for that reason, Chamaerops humilis is a great option for creating an exotic focal point in your garden. It’s a more space-efficient option than the Trachycarpus mentioned above, rarely exceeding head height, while its profusion of fanned green leaves (extending up to 50cm in length) are located lower down the trunk, meaning its spread often outpaces its height. Although it can cope with strong winds more comfortably than the Trachycarpus, it’s not quite so adept at withstanding frozen terrain. As such, planting it in a pot which can be removed indoors during the winter months might be a good option if it’s available to you. 4) Phormium tenax Known as New Zealand flax, Phormium are hugely popular perennials for adding a splash of colour and a dollop of architectural excitement to any planting scheme. With long, evergreen blades in a variety of shades, they’re ideal for brightening up dull landscapes in the winter months. The ‘Joker’ cultivar is prized for its impressive foliage, which carries a delightful mix of green and pink that creates an unusual aesthetic impact. They’re especially effective when made the centrepiece of a gravel garden or oversized border, growing up to 1m in height and slightly more in spread. They’re impressively adapted to cope with high salt concentrations in the air, which makes them a good candidate for coastal locations. However, they’re not keen on extremely strong winds, so would benefit from a sheltered planting spot, while some mulch on their roots during winter would not go amiss, either. 5) Aloe polyphylla This stunning spiky specimen is known colloquially as the spiral aloe and it’s not difficult to see why. With five layers of stubby, egg-shaped leaves curling into an aesthetically pleasing spiral, it’s a form of the genus that’s beloved by gardeners across the globe. The symmetry of the rosette is particularly attractive in mature plants. It’s capable of reaching up to 50cm in height and double that in spread, while the yellow or purple tinge at the tip of its leaves adds another dimension to its appeal. For the best results, you might want to confine your Aloe polyphylla to a pot so that it can be moved indoors in the wintertime. During that period, treat it like you would any other houseplant, but it’ll handle outdoor conditions for most of the year without issue. 6) Eryngium planum ‘Blue Sea Holly’ Another European native, blue sea holly is a low-maintenance perennial that boasts tall flower stems shooting forth from dense clumps of dark green foliage at their base.2 At their head, conical flowerheads of a striking blue are surrounded by a bract collar of bluish-purple, white or silver, depending on the exact type. For this reason, they look somewhat akin to an oversized thistle, though the metallic glow that they take on in sunshine (changing hue depending on how the light catches them) sets them apart from their Scottish counterparts. They were once a fairly specialised commodity in the UK, making them tricky to get hold of, but these days they’re a common offering at garden centres around the country. They grow extremely quickly and will flower in the same year they’re planted, while they’re impressively resilient and long-lasting once established. 7) Agave americana As the name suggests, this popular agave is native to the USA and Mexico, meaning it’s not the most logical choice for UK planting. And while it won’t tolerate the colder climes of northern regions of the country, it’ll do just fine in warmer areas, especially if lent a helping hand. “Although it will cope with winter wet conditions in mild coastal areas, it can be damaged in colder regions of the UK,” adds Horticulturist Colin Skelly MHort (RHS). Agave americana ‘Variegata’ Mature specimens should be able to deal with the cold (but not the wet) weather, though you may wish to move them indoors if container-planted just to be on the safe side. Although that might sound like more effort than some of the others on this list, it’s well worth your exertion. The enormous rosette of elongated leaves, lined with dangerously barbed edges, are quite a sight to behold. At the same time, those patient enough to wait several decades for it to flower will be richly rewarded with green-yellow flowers, too. “The needle sharp, long leaf tips of the Agave americana can be very dangerous to work around,” warns Colin Skelly. “After painful first-hand experience when weeding around these plants, I save up some corks and place them on the leaf tips and then remove them when the work is complete. “This is also an option if the plant is near a path or you have young visitors to your garden.” 8) Opuntia howeyi Did you know that there are even species of cactus that can be cultivated in the UK? Opuntia howeyi is one of those, with its lemon chiffon flowers, spiky pads and red fruits making it much easier on the eyes than it is on skin contact! The multitude of spiky hairs that cover its leafy pads are easily dislodged when brushed against, then attaching themselves to the poor unfortunate who has upset them and causing the individual significant discomfort in the process. As such, consider planting them well back from paths to avoid accidental exposure. It’s fairly compact and shouldn’t spread too much more than 35cm, meaning it’s a good option for smaller gardens. It doesn’t like an excess of moisture, especially during winter, so take steps to keep it dry if you can. Other than that, it’ll handle neglect without too many problems. 9) Nolina nelsonii Another spiky plant from the north of Mexico, Nolina nelsonii is characterised by a sturdy trunk which can grow up to 2m in height. At its summit, it’s crowned by an impressive ball of protruding blue-green leaves that can reach 2m in diameter, as well. It’s known in some parts as the ‘Blue Beargrass Tree’ and despite its tropical origins, it’s developed to deal with British climes fairly well. Hardy up to -15°C, it demands good drainage and as much sun as you can afford it, but otherwise will thrive in most parts of the country. Its ability to deal with drought well makes it an ideal choice for drier soils in which other plants struggle. It’s also fairly fast growing and within a matter of years, you’ll have an impressive specimen on your hands. References 1. Trachycarpus wagnerianus. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=293639 2. Eryngium planum. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/eryngium-planum/
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Use These Varieties If You're Container Growing Beetroot Says Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Beetroot In Pots? Choosing Containers Compost For Beetroot Potting Up & Transplanting Caring For Potted Beetroot Plants Beetroot is a delicious root vegetable that probably deserves more recognition than it gets. It can be boiled and tossed in cold salads, cooked in pot roasts, and stewed and pickled. And – of course – there’s borscht. But that’s only the root vegetable – actually, Beetroot is a ‘two for the price of one’ veggie. The leaves are tasty and these leafy greens too can be tossed in salads, cooked like spinach, or serve as an ingredient in stir-fries. Beetroots have been grown for many centuries in cottage gardens in Central and Eastern Europe. In comparison, this root veggie has made its appearance relatively recently in British gardens. Recently or not-so-recently, we do know that Beetroots are grown in many a British garden, but one question remains. Can You Grow Beetroot In Pots? Yes – Beetroot is grown very successfully in pots. Though persons who have a garden of their own may not care whether or not Beetroot can be grown in pots, if you live in a townhome or a high-rise flat and would like your own ‘garden fresh’ beetroot, we lay out how you can grow this earthy, mouth-watering root vegetable on your patio or balcony. Choosing Containers The pot should be at least 20cm deep. A standard 10-litre pot is 22.5cm deep so this is the smallest size you should choose. A 15-litre pot that is 30cm deep would be advisable. That said, you can grow small cultivars, especially if you will harvest them early as ‘baby beets,’ in containers even smaller than 10-litre ones. A planter or a trough is an excellent container to grow beetroots in as long as it is at least 20cm deep. Pot or planter, the container should have drainage holes. Just as you need to choose a container of the right size, where root vegetables are concerned you also need to choose a cultivar that is suitable for container growing. ‘Red Ace’, ‘Kestrel’, ‘Avalanche’, and ‘Moulin Rouge’ are the best bets for beginning gardeners who would like to grow Beetroot in containers, and they are especially good choices when you want to grow Beetroot in a less-than-adequate container. Aim for rounded and not cylindrical varieties. Compost For Beetroot Though you can prepare your own soil, a potting compost is the hassle-free way to grow Beetroot in containers. John Innes No 3 mixed with either Miracle-Gro Nature’s Care or Westland Multi-Purpose Compost is a good choice. If you prefer making your own soil, to grow Beetroots in containers start with a base of sandy, chalky soil, add grit to assure good drainage, and mix in well-rotted cattle manure, well-rotted chicken manure, and organic compost in about equal quantities. Regardless of whether you make your own soil or use a branded compost, the important points are that the soil must be free draining, it should be light and friable, and of a pH level in the slightly acidic range, i.e. 6.1-6.5. Though a pH anywhere from 5.5-7.0 is certainly acceptable. Potting Up & Transplanting Potting up or transplanting beetroot is to be avoided like the plague – well, not quite but you get the point. Beetroot, like many root veggies, are averse to being potted up or transplanted. Simply sow the seeds in a container of the proper size to begin with. “Pots usually have to earn their keep in small spaces,” shares Peter. “For maximum decorative impact, you could combine the dark red leaves of ‘Morello’ with the yellow-touched leaves of ‘Boldor’.” How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? First, bear in mind that except for a few relatively recent cultivars, most Beetroot cultivars ‘seeds’ contain 3 or 4 real seeds per ‘seed’. This is because Beetroot seeds are multigerm seeds, which is where each ‘seed’ contains multiple embryos. You’ll get perhaps 3 times as many plants as seeds sown. The number to sow also depends on the size of the pot and on what you want from your crop. “If the quantity is the goal, sow thinly across the top of the pot and cover with a layer of compost around 2cm deep,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer in Horticulture with 5 years of professional experience. “You’ll get a good crop of seedlings and you can thin these to a third, once they’re 3cm high, washing and eating the thinnings.” “The rest can be harvested later as baby beets, and a couple left behind can develop into golf-ball size roots.” If aiming for larger roots, we suggest that you grow two, perhaps three, Beetroot plants per pot of 15 or 20 litres volume, for which you would sow three seeds in a triangle shape. If the seeds are multigerm, you would thin them to one plant per seed, after germination. If you intend to use a rectangular planter or trough you can plant multiple seeds and grow multiple plants, albeit in a single row. As a rule of thumb, divide the length of the planter or trough in centimetres by 10, rounding down or up, and subtract 1 from the result. That is how many larger Beetroots you can grow in that planter. Caring For Potted Beetroot Plants Keep your containers in a spot where they will enjoy full sun – the more, the better, where Beetroots are concerned. Water seeds and seedlings every day with a watering can with a rose. As the plants grow, the frequency of watering to every two or three days. Keep the soil moist but do not let it get waterlogged – if the top 2-3cm of soil has dried out, it is time to water. Be on the lookout for weeds and pull them up as soon as you spot them. “I find that aiming for young or baby beets gets the most productivity out of the container, spreading the harvest,” adds Peter. “You could even pair them with salad onions in a larger container.” You may hear that Beetroots benefit from a high-phosphorus fertiliser such as bonemeal and this is correct, but this will not be easy to apply in the correct volume in containers and you run the risk of burning the roots. The easy and safe option is to apply a balanced liquid fertiliser once just after the seeds have sprouted and then again after about four weeks. Miracle-Gro Performance Organics Fruit & Veg in liquid form is a good bet; apply it according to the directions on the label.
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Gardeners Share Why It's Best To Sow Beetroot Seeds Directly In Open Ground
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare The Soil 2) Scarify The Seeds 3) Sow The Seeds 4) Water The Seeds And Seedlings 5) Protect The Seedlings Flavourful Beetroot is among the most rewarding vegetables you can grow in your garden. You will reap an even richer reward if you go about it correctly. However, beetroot, along with some other vegetables, has a deserved reputation for being averse to being transplanted. Sowing beetroot seeds in trays and then transplanting the seedlings into open ground can be a self-defeating exercise – meaning it is often best to sow Beetroot seeds directly in open ground. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, spade, gloves When To Sow April – July Planting Aspect Full Sun / Part Shade Beetroot seeds rather look like knurly husks; somewhat resembling American mixed-grain cereal. The vast majority of Beetroot varieties’ ‘seed’ actually contains three or four seeds, while a few newer cultivars have monogerm seeds. These have only one actual seed – technically embryo – per seed. Beetroot needs soil that drains very well but is rich and fertile. If your garden soil does not drain well, improve drainage with perlite, grit, a raised bed, or some combination of these. You can sow Beetroot by following these steps. Keep in mind that these steps need not be performed only once a season. Though Beetroots are admittedly best sown in mid-spring and early autumn, they are amenable to successional sowing in most parts of the UK so feel free to sow a handful of seeds right from April through July every fortnight to enjoy a harvest clear from June into October. Grow beetroot from seed by following these five simple steps: Prepare the soil Scarify the seeds Sow the seeds Water the seeds and seedlings Protect the seedlings This process is explained in more depth below. 1) Prepare The Soil Choose a spot of ground in full sun or partial shade. If you live in one of the balmier regions of the UK and plan to grow Beetroots through the summer, you need a partial shade location. The ground should be cleared of stones, tree roots, and such. Prepare the ground a few days to a few weeks before you intend to sow the seeds. Cultivate the ground to a depth of a good 30cm, breaking up any large lumps. If the ground does not drain very well, you have a choice of mixing in perlite or grit, especially at the lower strata, or sowing in ridges or making a raised bed, or both. Mix in well-rotted chicken manure and/or organic compost at about a 20% ratio to the garden soil, and add smaller quantities of a balanced granular fertiliser. The soil should not be densely packed. The optimal soil pH level is slightly acidic, with a pH ranging from 6.1-6.5, though there is certainly some margin at each end. 2) Scarify The Seeds Start sowing Beetroot seeds when the soil temperature is 8°C or more which is usually some time in April. Scarifying can improve the germination rates of beetroot. Though you can cut into the hard outer husk or abrade it with sandpaper, soaking is the easiest way to go about it. Simply fill a jar with lukewarm water and soak the seeds for around an hour before sowing. 3) Sow The Seeds Sow the seeds 8-10cm apart at a depth of 2-3cm. You can pull a cane or a hoe through the soil to make a shallow drill for sowing. Keep in mind that each seed of a multigerm cultivar will likely give rise to more than one plant. Rows should be spaced at about 30cm. Loosely cover the seeds by raking soil over the top. Moderately water the freshly-planted seeds. If it rains then that may be all the water they need. Seeds should germinate in 10-14 days but they may take as little as one week (or as many as three). 4) Water The Seeds And Seedlings Watering frequency will depend on the season and rainfall. Give the seeds or young plants a light watering if it has not rained for a week, otherwise rainwater should suffice. In hot and dry weather, increase the frequency of watering even up to every two days. Do not let the soil get dry. 5) Protect The Seedlings Deer, rabbits, and other small animals love Beetroot greens. If you anticipate that your plants are under threat, cover them with a suitably spaced garden mesh or even wire netting. However, sunlight should get through the protective barrier. When the plants are of sufficient size, say 3cm, thin them so that you are left with one plant per seed – that is one plant every 8-10cm. “There are ways of squeezing in an extra-early crop, by bringing your sowing date forward a month,” adds Peter Lickorish, a Horticulture Lecturer. “This can be done by using black membrane to cover soil before sowing can raise the temperature slightly and the ground can be fleeced after sowing.”
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8 Rhubarb Varieties And Their Distinctive Characteristics (With Dan Ori's Favourite)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) ‘Timperley Early’ 2) ‘Victoria’ 3) ‘The Sutton’ 4) ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ 5) ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ 6) ‘Canada Red’ 7) ‘Livingstone’ 8) ‘Champagne’ References As a reliable performer which can withstand the Great British winter with ease and returns each year without fail, it’s unsurprising that rhubarb is an increasingly popular choice in vegetable patches across the country. Although ostensibly a vegetable, it’s invariably incorporated into culinary dishes in the form of a fruit, adding sweetness and tartness to pies, bakes, sauces, jams and other desserts. Of course, we’re all familiar with Maris Pipers, King Edwards and Yukon Golds, but it’s less common for people to differentiate between varieties of rhubarb. Grandad’s Favourite Speaking honestly, that’s because there’s a subtler distinction in the taste and texture of different rhubarb types. Having said that, there are still discrepancies between the varieties, but these mostly revolve around the colour of the plant’s stalks and the optimal harvesting time of the cultivar. Here are eight of our favourites for you to choose from the next time you’re looking to grow some rhubarb in your own back garden. 1) ‘Timperley Early’ First sold commercially in 1945, ‘Timperley Early’ is – as the name might suggest – one of the earliest varieties of rhubarb available, even without forcing.1 It can be harvested in early- to mid-April, and though it only produces medium yields, it’s a perennially popular choice because of the speediness of its growth. The colour is a strong red, though it will fade to green in warmer climes. Stalks are longer and thinner than some other options on this list, while the taste of the rhubarb is especially sweet. As such, you may want to moderate the amount of sugar you add to a recipe when using Timperley Early rhubarb. 2) ‘Victoria’ First introduced in 1837, this is one of the oldest rhubarb varieties on the market – and it’s still going strong due to its myriad attractive qualities.2 It is a dependable grower that produces heavy yields, while its strong stalks are a deep red in colour fading to green further towards the leaves and it holds an exquisite flavour. The taste is slightly more bitter than others on the list, but it remains a favourite in Scotland where it is often used to make jams, marmalades and other preserves. It will be ready to harvest slightly later in the season (think mid- to late-May) unless forced, though it does lend itself well to those who prefer to engage in that practice. 3) ‘The Sutton’ Dating back to 1895, ‘The Sutton’ is hailed as having one of the best flavours of any rhubarb anywhere in the world.3 For that reason, it’s remained supremely popular for over one-and-a-quarter centuries and is freely available from garden centres and rhubarb nurseries up and down the country. Another string to its bow is the fact that ‘The Sutton’ can invariably be relied upon to produce a strong yield of stems of medium thickness, even if they do have a tendency to grow at an angle and can come in a spectrum of colours. A late bloomer compared to others, ‘The Sutton’ is ready for harvesting between mid-May and early-June. 4) ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ As the name suggests, ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ is immediately recognisable from the arrow shape of its foliage. Developed in England during the 1960s, it’s a more recent addition to the rhubarb canon but one that’s no less popular for the recency of its arrival.4 In fact, many experts regard ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ as the premium choice when it comes to cultivating rhubarb in a private garden. That’s because it delivers strong and long stems which hold their colour longer than most and produce a delicious taste bursting with sweetness. A supreme all-round performer. 5) ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ Another candidate for the position of strongest all-rounder, ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ is favoured for its impressive flavour and extended harvesting time. When most species have accumulated too much oxalic acid to make their stems palatable, this plucky individual is still good to eat well into autumn. Its soft pink and green stem colouring puts some people off, but the sweetness of its flavour and the longevity of its picking season more than make up for those drawbacks in our opinion. We’re not alone, either; ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ is a perpetual favourite with amateur gardeners around the country. 6) ‘Canada Red’ Instantly identifiable by the brightness of its blood-red stalks, ‘Canada Red’ carries a particularly sweet taste that means you won’t require quite so much sugar in your recipe. What’s more, the pleasing contrast of the lush green foliage against the crimson stalks enhances the aesthetic appeal of your garden, too. The plant generally grows up to about a metre or more in height and should produce harvestable stems for about five years before its powers will wane. It can be harvested anytime between April and June, depending upon the specific plant in question and the conditions in your part of the UK. 7) ‘Livingstone’ This modern cultivar was bred in Britain with one explicit purpose – eliminating the summer dormancy to achieve a double harvest! For those who really love their rhubarb, then, it’s an excellent option, since it will allow you to enjoy the fruits of your labour once in spring and then again in autumn. The stems themselves are full-bodied and reach around 60cm in length, while their succulent taste and stringless texture complete the attractive package. However, you may have to wait up to two years after planting to reap your first harvest, depending on the maturity of the root ball at the outset. “I force my Rhubarb ‘Livingstone’ on rotation so each plant has a two-year rest,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “The beauty of forcing some of your plants is you have an early tender harvest, a spring harvest and an autumn harvest of the same variety in one year.” 8) ‘Champagne’ Available to be harvested from April onwards, ‘Champagne’ is one of the earliest rhubarb varieties out there. Its stems offer up a beautiful colour whenever they’re picked, but you can encourage a gorgeous pink hue by forcing them or allow them to mature for a darker crimson. Slender in girth and medium-sized in length, they’re often regarded as one of the best rhubarb types for forcing and indeed, one of the best to grow from a general standpoint. Easy to grow and reliable to return with the same fruitful output each year. “When I am asked by someone who has never grown Rhubarb before what variety to pick, I recommend ‘Champagne’ due to its all-around performance and early harvest,” Dan says. “Currently, ‘Champagne’ is my favourite forced variety, with the trick being to remove the forcing pot two weeks before harvest.” References 1. Rhubarb “Timperley Early.” (n.d.). Burncoose Nurseries. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pl_id=3700 2. Rhubarb, rhubarb: why Victoria still reigns supreme. (2010, March 25). The Irish Times. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/homes-and-property/gardens/rhubarb-rhubarb-why-victoria-still-reigns-supreme-1.643694 3. The Sutton. (2019, March 13). Brandy Carr Nurseries. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://brandycarrnurseries.co.uk/product/the-sutton/ 4. Stockbridge Arrow. (2022, April 29). Brandy Carr Nurseries. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://brandycarrnurseries.co.uk/product/stockbridge-arrow/
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Some Experts Advise Pulling Rhubarb Stems From The Ground (Rather Than Cutting Them)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Start Harvesting Rhubarb When To Harvest Forced Rhubarb When To Start Harvesting Non-Forced Rhubarb How Long Can You Harvest Rhubarb For? How Much Can You Harvest From One Rhubarb Plant? How To Harvest Rhubarb Rhubarb is a great perennial crop to grow in your garden – it will thrive in a sunny location, with moist yet well-drained soil. These are generally low-maintenance plants and, when grown in the right spot, will require little attention and care. The main job each year, once plants are established, will be harvesting your crop. Here’s what you need to know about harvesting rhubarb: Don’t harvest the first year after planting, and harvest only a little in the second year. Consider forcing rhubarb for an earlier yield, beginning in winter. Harvest non-forced rhubarb from March – July. Stop harvesting rhubarb before summer. Once mature, you can take up to a third, or even potentially half of the stems each spring. If well cared for, a rhubarb plant can live to provide a harvest for over 20 years. Ideally, you should pull stems from the ground rather than cutting or snapping them off. After harvesting, replenish organic mulch around rhubarb plants to help them recover. Find more detail on this below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pruners, scissors or secateurs (optional) When To Harvest March – July When To Start Harvesting Rhubarb If you have only just planted your rhubarb, you should hold off harvesting entirely for the first year. This will allow the plants to establish well before they are weakened by harvesting. In the second year after planting, you can harvest, but should be circumspect in doing so. Harvest just a few stems this year, and allow the plants to fully mature before you get into a regular harvesting routine in subsequent years. The specific time of year when you begin to harvest rhubarb will depend on whether or not you have decided to force your rhubarb plants. When To Harvest Forced Rhubarb Forcing rhubarb simply means covering the rhubarb crown to exclude sunlight. This encourages earlier growth (typically approximately 3 weeks before rhubarb that was not forced) and generates tall pale stems. Forcing rhubarb will bring forward your harvest and some argue that it will improve the flavour of the rhubarb stems. However, it should be noted that forcing rhubarb does affect future growth of the plant to a degree – so this is only something you should consider doing with healthy and mature, fully-established specimens. Also, it is not a good idea to force the same rhubarb plant for successive years, since this may reduce the plant’s vigour too dramatically. If you have decided to force a rhubarb plant to harvest, you will usually do so in late winter, so that you can harvest in spring. You can start the process as soon as November/ December, but it is usually done in January/February. To force rhubarb, around this time, you will simply find something to cover over the growing plant to exclude sunlight. You might use a special rhubarb forcing jar, a plant pot, an old bin, or another reclaimed container. After you have excluded light from the growing stems for 8 weeks, you should be able to remove the cover and harvest. You can harvest the pale long stems when they have grown 20 to 30cm tall, and harvest them earlier than those that have not been forced – perhaps even from as early as January, but typically from early in March. The benefit of this is that the yield arrives during what was historically called the ‘hungry gap’. This was the period when winter stores began to run low, and spring sown crops were not yet ready to harvest. When To Start Harvesting Non-Forced Rhubarb Rhubarb that has not been forced will typically be harvested around 3 weeks to a month later than that which has been forced. Usually, rhubarb stems growing naturally in your garden will be ready to harvest from late March or early April. How Long Can You Harvest Rhubarb For? Typically, rhubarb is harvested only over the spring – until July at the latest. The rhubarb will be perfectly edible and taste good still after this time, but you should generally stop harvesting in July in order to avoid weakening the plant. Hold off harvesting once summer arrives and you can continue to enjoy harvesting from a healthy plant each spring over a number of years. If cared for correctly, these plants can live for 20 years. How Much Can You Harvest From One Rhubarb Plant? Once a rhubarb plant is mature, typically from its third year after planting, you can harvest up to a third, or even half of the stems from each plant. Just make sure that you leave some of the plant to continue on in active growth. That way, it will continue to provide you with a bountiful yield for a number of years to come. How To Harvest Rhubarb When harvesting, simply take hold of each stalk at its base. Try to gently ease it out of the ground. Aim to avoid cutting or snapping it off if possible. Cut off the leaves (which are not edible) and place these into your composting system or use them as a mulch. You can then take the stems and wash them to use them in your kitchen. After harvesting from a mature plant, replenish the mulch of some homemade compost or other organic material around the rhubarb plant to give it the nutrients it requires. “With the right varieties, it is possible to have 3 seasons of Rhubarb harvest in one year,” says Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. So, make sure you give your plants a chance to recover well before the following year’s harvest.
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