Growing
Pruning Roses Boosts Plant Health And Airflow: 'Don't Be Afraid Of Making Mistakes'
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Rose Plants? When To Prune Roses Equipment & Tools Rose Pruning Tips For Beginners Identifying Your Rose Type How To Prune Roses Deadheading Care After Pruning Roses are one of the UK’s favourite flowers and many of us grow them in our gardens – but how and when to prune roses can cause a lot of confusion. “Pruning is one of the most fearful black arts for most newer gardeners,” says Philip Harkness, owner of the award-winning nursery Harkness Roses. “When pruning, you are doing better than not pruning at all. After all, it isn’t too hard to perform.” In this guide, we’ll explain why you should prune roses, when you should prune, and what you’ll need to do so. We’ll give some simple tips to help beginners, then delve deeper to explore the process for different rose types that you might grow. Why Prune Rose Plants? We prune roses for several simple reasons: To improve plant health. To reduce the size of overgrown roses. To remove dead, damaged or diseased plant material. And for effective airflow around our plants. Plant Health The most important thing to remember is that pruning should largely be undertaken not for aesthetics but for plant health as a primary consideration. Pruning roses can help to keep your roses happy and healthy. “Don’t be afraid of making mistakes,” says Colin Dickson, Owner of Dickson Roses. “Roses are difficult to kill by pruning.” Reducing Size You may prune roses to restrict their size, where they are vigorous and have outgrown their location. Reducing or restricting the size of roses can help them to be good neighbours to other plants, and can also make sure that they do not want for water and nutrients in the position they are in. Remove Dead Or Diseased Growth Cutting out old, poorly flowering wood on established roses can help promote healthy new growth which will flower better. Often, in pruning, your first goal will be to remove dead, damaged or diseased material. Of course, this not only promotes good flowering but can also prevent further damage or disease. Promote Airflow Another key goal when pruning roses is to prune out spindly or crossing stems so as to create a framework of well-spaced stems that allow air to flow freely around them. “Cutting out an older stem can open up the rose and encourage new growth from the bottom,” says Ben Stirton from Country Rose Gardens. “Don’t be sentimental or nervous, if you over prune it will soon grow back!” Good airflow reduces the chances of diseases taking hold. When To Prune Roses “I would say that there are two main pruning times,” says David Allison, Vice Chairman of the RHS Fruit, Vegetable & Herb Committee. “In late autumn after flowering has finished, you can carry out a light prune to reduce the overall height of the plant. “Then, in early spring whilst the plant is still dormant, prune out any dead, diseased, weak or crossing stems and, depending on the variety, carry out a hard prune to a dormant outward facing bud. “It’s generally better to have 4-5 strong main stems rather than a lot of weaker ones. “This dictates the shape and size of their plant for the forthcoming flowering season.” Generally speaking, late winter/early spring in February or March is typically stated as the best time to prune roses. However, as you will discover below, pruning guidelines differ depending on which type of roses you grow, so we’ll explore when to prune roses in more depth a little later in this guide. “Doing your main pruning in March as generally recommended is far too late and will delay flowering in summer by 6 weeks,” warns Chris Styles from Style Roses. Equipment & Tools To prune roses, you may simply need a sharp and clean pair of secateurs, a pair of gloves and a top with long sleeves to prevent injury from thorns. For more mature roses, however, you might require gardening shears, loppers or a pruning saw, depending on the thickness of the branches. Rose Pruning Tips For Beginners How and when you prune depends on the type of rose you are growing. However, there are a few key rules that it can be useful to bear in mind when pruning your roses at all, as Philip shares: “Start by removing any dead, diseased or damaged growth. After, thin out the centre of the plant. “Cut the remaining stems back by about two-thirds. “Half is fine and more than two-thirds is fine – just leave a shape you like. You can then move on to the next one.” Always make all cuts with clean, sharp secateurs or other tools on larger branches. “The thicker the stem, the less you need to cut back,” shares Colin. “I always tended to prune quite hard to encourage new growth.” “I’m a hard pruner too,” adds Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “I prefer to stimulate new growth and try to avoid top heavy roses. Everyone is different though, and will develop their own penchants when pruning roses. “The important thing is to understand the type of rose you have and the generally accepted rules for pruning them. You can then explore the boundaries of these rules from your own experience.” Stewart Pocock, the owner of Pocock’s Roses, agrees with this method, adding: “The general rule of thumb is the stronger the growth, the less hard you prune and the weaker the growth, the harder you prune.” Identifying Your Rose Type In order to prune roses, it can be helpful to work out what kind of rose you have. Roses are divided into the following categories in terms of their pruning requirements: Climbing Rambling Shrub Hybrid Tea and Floribunda Patio (Miniature) Ground-Cover If you are not sure what type of rose you have, you can still get started with pruning. First of all, determine whether you have a rose which is very tall or needs some sort of support. If you do, it is most likely to be a climbing or rambling rose. If your rose is not a climber or rambler, it may be more difficult to work out which type you have. Patio or miniature roses and ground cover types are easily recognised by their size and growth habit. But if you have a larger rose, it might be hybrid tea or floribunda, or a type of shrub rose. How To Prune Roses If you are not sure which rose you are growing, you can prune carefully in February or March. What happens next will help you to work out which type of rose you are dealing with. Climber Or Rambling Type If you have a taller or supported rose, careful pruning can help you to work out whether it is a climber or a rambler. If the rose has a large, mature single old stem emerging from the ground, prune gently as it may not grow back when cut back hard. Shorten it by no more than one-third to one-half. If your rose has multiple stems, take out a couple of the oldest-looking stems (with grey, flaky bark) as close to the ground as possible. The plant’s response the following season should let you know whether it is a rambler or a climber: If it is a rambler, it is likely to send out a lot of non-flowering shoots. If it is a climber, it is likely to respond with less vigorous but flowering growth. Climbing roses typically repeat flower throughout the summer and into autumn. In contrast, rambling roses will usually bloom once, typically in June. If you know which you have, more precise pruning technique and timing is recommended. Climbing roses are typically pruned between late autumn and late winter. Routine pruning involves removing any material that is dead, damaged or diseased, tying in new shoots to supports, cutting back flowering side shoots by two-thirds of their length, and cutting out really old stems at the base to promote new growth if the plant is congested. Rambling roses are ideally pruned in late summer. When the supports have been covered, these roses should be pruned by removing one in three of the oldest stems to ground-level. Where space is restricted, all flowered stems might be pruned out and new shoots tied in. Finally, side shoots are shortened by around two-thirds of their length. “Ramblers have different requirements, especially those that do not repeat flower and only have one big intense period of blooming that lasts 6-8 weeks,” shares Philip. “Most of the non-repeating roses flower on old wood, so if you cut that out, there will be no flowers the following summer.” See a more in-depth guide to pruning climbing roses here. Shrub Or Bush Type With shrub or bush types, you can also get some clues through pruning as to which type you have. Again in February or March, take out a couple of stems as close to ground-level as you can and shorten the remaining stems by around a third. If vigorous regrowth occurs the following season, flowering well, it is likely that you have a floribunda or hybrid tea rose. If it does not, it is more likely to be some kind of shrub rose. Pruning is more or less the same for floribunda and hybrid roses, but floribunda are left with longer stems with more buds on them. This is to allow for the mass of blooms they generate. “Floribunda and Patio roses need regular deadheading and light pruning to keep an open structure and increase airflow,” says Ben. “You should be able to see through the plant.” “Hybrid Tea & Floribunda Roses need cutting down to 30-45cm, whilst Shrub & English Roses should be cut back to around 60cm,” Chris recommends. Hybrid tea roses are pruned lower to encourage new shoots, as Ben shares: “Hybrid tea roses need to be cut back quite hard to encourage new growth from the bottom otherwise you end up with leggy plants with flowers all at the top.” “Shrub roses can be treated like bush roses, but don’t cut so hard,” says Philip. “You can even just tidy up for a year or two and give a harder prune every second or third year if you like a big bushy natural look to them.” As Philip says, shrub roses typically flower on older stems and should usually be allowed to develop more naturally with lighter pruning. Simply aim to remove dead, damaged or diseased material and prune lightly to create an open structure, removing older unproductive branches to make way for new growth. Deadheading “Regular deadheading is a must during the season to prolong flowering,” says Ben. Repeat flowering rose types should be deadheaded to encourage further blooms. And any roses can be deadheaded simply to improve their appearance. “During the flowering season, prune out any flowers and stems that have gone over,” says David. “Alternatively, cut flowers for your house, to encourage repeat flowering and to promote visual impact. “Afterwards, remove all pruned material to avoid any disease build-up.” However, it does not pay to be too zealous in deadheading as if you remove all faded flowers, you won’t allow the hips to form. And on many types of roses, hips can be beautiful, and also provide an interesting and healthy edible yield. Care After Pruning After late winter or spring pruning, roses should always be mulched well with a thick layer of organic matter such as a good quality homemade compost, leaf mould, or well-rotted manure. It is also a good idea to feed all pruned roses in spring with a balanced organic fertiliser.
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Emily Cupit Shares Feeding And Watering Tips For Thriving Carrot Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Carrots Feeding Carrots Easy to grow and flavoursome, carrots have been a long-term favourite for home growers and vegetable patches. Part of the Apiaceae family, Daucus carota, or carrots as we know them, originate from the Middle East and hence their preference for full sun and a free-draining growing medium. When it comes to growing carrots, it can be easy to forget about them as they don’t require much looking after. However, as with all other vegetables, they do need a certain amount of moisture and some essential nutrients to grow well. As explained in more depth below. Watering Carrots Carrots are almost drought-resistant, making them easy to care for over the summer months. Thriving in a sunny spot in light soil, carrots will cope with a certain amount of neglect. However, they do require watering and especially during long dry spells. A thorough and deep watering once every two days or so (depending on the weather) should suffice. If you are unsure if they need more moisture or not, check the soil an inch or two down and if it is dry then water. Carrots grow well in pots, containers and raised beds, yet it is good to note that if grown this way and especially in smaller containers, they will need watering more frequently than those grown directly in the soil. Feeding Carrots Carrots, like a lot of root crops, are light feeders and will grow well in all but the poorest of soils. Although, to get the best-sized and tastiest carrots, they do require relatively fertile soil. Before sowing, it is advisable to prepare the ground by removing any weeds and stones and evenly adding either some well-rotted manure, compost, bonemeal or a slow-release balanced granular fertiliser, to provide the necessary nutrients for the growing season ahead. However, if you do decide to improve the soil with manure or compost, it is recommended to do this a few months ahead of sowing. This will allow the soil some time to settle and for the organic matter to break down further, as high levels of nitrogen, which fresh manure contains, can cause the carrots to fork. “My first port of call when selecting a fertiliser is to look at the N-P-K ratio on the back of the packet,” explains Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “This tells you the relative proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (or Kalium) the product contains. “For carrots, Nitrogen is not especially important, so look for higher numbers for Phosphorus (as found in bonemeal) or Potassium. “Fish, blood and bone fertiliser has a ratio of Nitrogen: Phosphorus: Potassium of around 3:9:3, which is a good blend for carrots.”
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This Is How Emily Cupit Grows Carrots In Containers - 'The Crucial Factor Is The Depth'
IN THIS GUIDE Are Carrots Container Suitable? Container Sizes Choosing Compost Sowing Carrots In Pots Caring For Pot-Grown Carrot Plants Carrots are a home growers’ favourite and for good reason: they come in an array of colours and taste delicious. Being easy to grow and care for, they also grow well in pots or containers making them ideal if your growing space is limited. Are Carrots Container Suitable? Carrots can grow well in pots or containers, with the only limiting factor being the size and depth of the container. When it comes to choosing carrots to grow in containers, it can be advisable to pick a cultivar that produces a shorter and more round root, than a long thin one. Container Sizes Carrots will grow well in any shape container, whether a long thin trough or a round pot. The crucial factor is the depth, which to achieve a good crop, needs to be 30cm deep for rounded roots and 45cm for longer rooting cultivars. The containers’ material is not important, as carrots seem to grow as well in old dustbins as a large terracotta pot. However, multiple drainage holes must be already present or made by hand prior to using, as carrots require a free-draining soil. Choosing Compost Carrots prefer a free draining and light soil, that is stone free. A benefit of growing carrots in pots is that the soil can be chosen to suit them, which can be especially handy if you garden on stony soil. A peat-free multi-purpose compost is ideal, to which some sand or vermiculite can be added to lighten the mix if required. However, don’t be tempted to add some manure to the compost mix to help them grow, as this may encourage the carrots to produce side roots and end up forking. “There’s a tradition of using spent or previously used compost to grow carrots in,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist and Lecturer in Horticulture. “It’s a good idea, as carrot roots elongate themselves looking for nutrients, so a rich compost will not encourage this and could make for very leafy plants. “They do still need some nutrients though, especially phosphorus, so a light addition of blood, fish and bone or similar before sowing would be useful.” Sowing Carrots In Pots Carrots don’t take well to being transplanted which is why they tend to be always grown from seed. Typically, carrots are sown from spring until mid-summer. However, earlier varieties can be sown as early as February, but only as long as they are given some frost protection, such as a layer of fleece or under a cloche. Carrot seed is small and needs to be sown thinly at a depth of 1cm. This can either be done by individually planting seeds at a spacing of 5cm apart and covering over, or thinly broadcast sowing and covering with a thin layer of compost and gently watering in with a rose to avoid displacing the seeds. As tempting as it is, try not to sow more than the recommended number of seeds for the pot’s size, as the extras will only need to be thinned out later down the line. Carrot seeds generally take 2–3 weeks to germinate, during which the soil should be kept moist. Carrots store well, however, to avoid a glut and for carrots all season long, sowings can be successionally sown every 2–3 weeks. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Carrots, if over-sown, will need to be thinned to an approximate final spacing of 5–7cm to allow them mature to a good size. Therefore, the only limit to a carrot crop is the size of the container. “As a guide, a 30cm diameter container could grow around 8 larger carrots or lots more if you aim for tender baby carrots,” says Peter. “Sowing more thickly and gradually harvesting baby carrots may give a better yield than aiming for more mature roots.” Caring For Pot-Grown Carrot Plants Carrots are a relatively drought-resistant crop and are easy to care for and generally only require to be kept free from weeds and watered occasionally. Keeping the carrots’ container weed free will stop the weeds from competing with the carrots and give them space to mature. Carrots don’t need to be watered that often, but they do require a thorough watering during hot and dry spells and they will need more frequent watering than those grown directly in the soil. “A deeper container will dry out more slowly,” adds Peter. Carrots only need relatively fertile soil to grow in and if sown into fresh compost each year should not need any further fertiliser applied during the growing season. Carrot root fly can be a real issue when growing carrots, as the flies are attracted to the smell of the foliage when it is crushed during thinning and handling. The flies then lay their eggs on the soil, which subsequently turn into larvae and eat the carrot crop underground. To deter any carrot fly from eating your crop, there are some preventative measures that can be put in place. These include resistant cultivars being chosen, growing alliums nearby which can mask the carrots’ scent and a fleece barrier 90-100cm tall placed around the container. Depending on the variety, carrots can be harvested 3–4 months after sowing, when they are a suitable size. If you are unsure if they are ready to pick, lifting a few alternate carrots can help determine their current size and provide more space for the others to grow on if necessary. However, it is good to be aware that leaving carrots in the soil for too long can lead to them turning slightly woody and less flavoursome.
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Repotting Begonias Is A Very Simple 4 Step Process Illustrated By Emily Cupit
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Loosen The Plant’s Soil 2) Choose An Appropriate Pot 3) Prepare the Soil Mix 4) Re-pot Begonias are often grown in containers or pots due to their fondness of being slightly root-bound and so that they can be easily moved to a pride of place when looking their best. A group of tender flowering perennials, begonias are often grown as container or hanging basket half hardy annuals or as houseplants here in the UK. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, larger container, potting compost, perlite or horticultural grit There are certain tell-tale signs that your begonia may need repotting: Roots trailing from drainage holes of your pots Failure to thrive after historically growing well The plant has visibly outgrown its current pot Repotting begonias is usually a straight-forward process: Loosen the plant from its pot Choose a new container that is appropriately sized Prepare the soil mix Repot This process is explained in more depth below – 1) Loosen The Plant’s Soil Before repotting, it is important to loosen the soil around the plant so it can be easily removed from its current container. If the plant has become severely rootbound or has not been re-potted in a few years, this can be easier said than done. If a plant cannot easily be extracted from its current home, gently squeezing the sides of the pot or sliding a thin object between the soil and the pot side, such as a plant label can help. 2) Choose An Appropriate Pot Begonias grow best when they are slightly constrained, so don’t be tempted to plant them in a huge pot, as they will often struggle. Instead, choose a new pot just one or two sizes up, with plenty of drainage holes so any excess water can easily drain away. 3) Prepare the Soil Mix Begonias can be hungry feeders, especially when they are actively growing and flowering. If the plant’s increasing size doesn’t require its repotting, it is still recommended to change the soil for container-grown begonias every two to three years, to avoid the compost becoming depleted of nutrients. In general, begonias prefer a moist, but well-drained soil. A potting compost with some perlite or horticultural grit added to increase the drainage properties is ideal. 4) Re-pot Add a thin layer of potting mix to the bottom of the new pot and place the plant on top, ensuring that the plant sits at the correct depth in the new container. Backfill around the plant with the compost mix and gently firm in. Once re-potted, water thoroughly ensuring that all the compost is moist and that any excess water can drain away freely.
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Did You Know You Can Harvest Your Beetroot At Different Stages? These Gardeners Show How
IN THIS GUIDE How To Harvest Beetroot When To Harvest Beetroot Harvesting Beetroot Leaves Harvesting Baby Beetroot Harvesting Mature Beetroot Storing Beetroot Beetroot is a wonderful crop for home growing and a beetroot harvest can be very rewarding. But how and when is it harvested? Beetroot is a crop which can offer a lot – if you know what yields are offered by these plants, when to obtain those yields and how they can be used. Below is some information to help you understand how to harvest your beetroot and the various stages at which you can do so. How To Harvest Beetroot Many beetroots can simply be harvested by grasping the plants where the leaves meet the top of the root, and lifting them from the soil. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required None When To Harvest Late Spring, Summer, Mid-Autumn While carrots or parsnips, their longer roots can often break off below the soil if you try to tug them up by hand, but with round beetroots, this is not usually a problem unless the soil is heavy or rather compacted. If you are having trouble lifting the beetroots by hand, watering a day or so before you harvest may help. You can also simply ease them out of the soil as you would carrots or other root crops with a garden fork. Insert the fork into the soil close to (but not too close to) the beetroots and lever the soil and beetroots upwards. The fork will loosen the soil and you can then simply lift the beetroots from the ground. If you plan to use the beetroots right away, you can shake or knock off excess soil, then give them a wash. If you plan on storing your beetroots for later use, then it is best not to wash them. Simply knock off loose dirt and place them in sand or sawdust in a root cellar or other suitable storage space, washing them only when you are about to use them. When To Harvest Beetroot Understanding what you can harvest and when is important in making the most of your garden. Beetroots are interesting because they can provide harvests of both leaves and roots, and can be harvested at a series of stages and over a fairly long period. Harvesting Beetroot Leaves Before the roots of your beetroots are ready to harvest, you can snip off the occasional leaf to use. Just make sure that you take only individual leaves, and take these sparingly, so that you do not overly compromise the growth of the root, which is the main harvest of these plants. Harvesting Baby Beetroot Beetroot is a crop that can be harvested over a relatively long period. When exactly you will harvest your beetroot will depend on where you live, and when your crop was planted. The important thing to understand is that beetroot do not need to be fully mature to be harvested. In fact, they can often taste much better when harvested while they are still rather small. Thinning Rows The first time that you might harvest beetroots is while thinning rows. You might remove some smaller beetroots to allow the remaining plants to continue growing to produce larger roots. “There is a tradition for harvesting every other root at golf ball size, and the rest at cricket ball size, assuming this is the shape of your variety,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. These small baby beetroot might not have reached their full potential in terms of size, but for me, these little beetroots are the tastiest beetroots of all. They are great grated into coleslaws or salads, but can be used in a range of different ways. These baby beetroot will be around the size of a golf ball, or perhaps a little smaller. Harvesting Mature Beetroot Most beetroots however, are harvested when the roots are between golf ball and cricket ball size. If you leave them to grow much larger than that, they tend to become woodier and will not usually taste as good. Globe beetroot types will typically be ready to harvest around 8-10 weeks after planting, while longer cylindrical beetroots can take nearly double the length of time. You should be able to see quite easily how large your beetroot has grown, since by the time they are mature, quite a lot of the root is visible above the soil surface. Just remember, especially when beetroot are reaching maturity in the summer, that bigger is not always better – do not leave it too long before you harvest your mature beetroot. Successional Sowing Successional sowing earlier in the year would mean that you are able to harvest beetroots over quite a long period, rather than having a glut that must be preserved or used up all at once. If you did sow successionally, you may have some later sown beetroots still in the ground as winter approaches. Winter Harvesting One other interesting thing to note is that you do not necessarily have to harvest your beetroot crop before winter arrives. With a little protection from cloches, straw or a row cover, later sown beetroot can be left in the ground and harvested as and when you need them, through to the following March. Beetroots can even taste slightly sweeter after they have been exposed to a few frosts. Peels When harvesting beetroots, there is one final yield to consider. Once the roots have been harvested, if the peels are not being used in a recipe, these can be put to one side. These peelings can be used in a vegetable stock with other scraps and peelings. But they can also, interestingly, be used to make a vibrant plant-based, natural and edible dye or food colouring. Storing Beetroot “Don’t feel like you have to pull up all your crops at once,” explains Sara Venn from Edible Bristol. “If you have plants like beetroots, leave them in the soil or find a pickling recipe. You can leave root crops until the end of the season in the ground.” Remember, for storage you will cut off the foliage of the plants. But fresh beetroot leaves should not be relegated to the compost heap, since these are also a useful yield. Beetroot leaves are also an edible part of the plant – similar to chard. They can be used as you would use chard or other cooked greens and are another addition to your home-grown diet. So take off good leaves and use them right away, or freeze them or preserve them in some other way for later use. “The roots themselves must not be allowed to shrivel, so place them in slightly moist sand in the dark and ideally keep them frost-free,” shares Peter. “Alternatively, pickle them or peel off the skin, cut them up and freeze them for up to a year. “If you want winter harvests, but need your beds back, there’s another way of storing beetroots outdoors, called a clamp. “This involves storing a pyramid shaped pile of beetroots, with the top growth trimmed off, on a bed of a loose material like straw. “The height of the pile can be up to 1m, is covered with straw and then smoothed soil to protect from frost damage and allow water run-off. “A drainage trench should be dug around the clamp, and excess water can also escape through the exposed straw.” Beetroot is a plant that offers a lot – by understanding secondary yields, harvesting correctly (and at the right times) you can really make the most of this crop.
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Propagating Begonia: Taking Cuttings For Tuberous, Fibrous-Rooted, Rhizomatous Types
IN THIS GUIDE When To Propagate Begonia Propagating Tuberous (Outdoors) Begonia Propagating Fibrous Rooted (Outdoors) Begonia Propagating Fibrous-Rooted & Cane-Stemmed Begonia Propagating Rhizomatous Begonia Propagating Semi-Tuberous (Indoors) Begonia Fibrous-rooted and tuberous Begonias are propagated by stem or leaf cuttings; however, the process is easier and more straightforward with fibrous-rooted Begonias. Within the fibrous-rooted class it is easier to propagate cane-stemmed varieties by stem cuttings, and semperflorens or wax varieties through leaf cuttings. Difficulty Moderate to Hard Equipment Required Gardening knife, cuttings, compost mix, pot or module tray, propagator When To Take Cuttings April, May, June Whichever method you choose, use a sharp pair of secateurs which has been sterilised with rubbing alcohol. When To Propagate Begonia When to take and propagate begonia cuttings depends on the type you’re growing: Take stem cuttings of tuberous Begonias and some double-flowered cultivars of Begonia semperflorens outdoors Begonias in April. Take stem cuttings of fibrous-rooted and cane-stemmed houseplant Begonias in April. Take leaf cuttings of Begonia rex hybrids and other indoors types in May or June. Take basal cuttings of Semi-tuberous houseplant Begonias in Spring. No matter which method you use, adding rooting hormone is usually a good idea. Check out the steps for propagating each type below. Propagating Tuberous (Outdoors) Begonia Tuberous Begonias grown outdoors in the ground or in containers can be propagated by stem cuttings taken in April. Take 10cm long cuttings of stem with a heel (section of the tuber) attached. Place these in a mix of peat-free compost and sand, and provide bottom heat of 18-21°C. Propagating Fibrous Rooted (Outdoors) Begonia Double-flowered types of B. semperflorens are also usually propagated from stem cuttings. After overwintering the plants in a cool location, in April, take 7.5-10cm long cuttings. Place in a suitable medium, as above, and, again, provide bottom heat of 18-21°C. Propagating Fibrous-Rooted & Cane-Stemmed Begonia Also in April, take 7-10cm long stem cuttings of fibrous-rooted or cane-stemmed Begonias. These should be inserted in a suitable medium as above, and provided with bottom heat of 18-21°C. Propagating Rhizomatous Begonia If you are growing rhizomatous Begonias indoors, you may need to take longer stem cuttings because you should be sure to include a leaf node at the base. Certain rhizomatous types, like B. rex hybrids and cultivars, are also frequently propagated from leaf cuttings, taken in May or June. Take a newly matured leaf, cut off the stalk, cut carefully through major veins, spacing cuts around 2.5cm apart. Place and peg the leaf onto a seed tray of sandy cuttings compost. Water well and keep at 18-24°C, with good humidity, to wait for plantlets to form from cut points. Rex Begonias In addition to the leaf-cutting method, Rex Begonia varieties are often propagated by a specialised method. Select a leaf that has just matured. From its bottom or lower surface, make a few small incisions along the veins, using a disinfected sharp blade. Place the leaf, lower side down, on compost and peg it or put light weights on the leaf so that it stays in tight contact with the soil. Keep it in bright sunlight (but not under a hot sun) and water it well. Rootlets will emerge from the cuts in the vein. While almost all Begonias can be propagated by stem or leaf cuttings, rhizomatous varieties are also propagated by division. Propagating Semi-Tuberous (Indoors) Begonia Propagating semi-tuberous Begonia from stem cuttings is a little more challenging, though this is the most common method employed to obtain these plants for the following year. After they have flowered, allow the plants to rest by reducing the temperature to 7°C and reducing water but not inducing complete drought. Maintain this rest state for around 6 weeks. After the end of this period, prune back to within 15cm of the base, and raise the temperature to 10-13°C, to stimulate new growth. When the new growth is around 5cm long, take basal cuttings of these new shoots and root them at 18-22°C. Keep them lightly shaded until they have rooted well, then pot on.
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18 Intriguing Begonias Chosen From The Mind-Boggling Array Of Varieties
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Chosen Varieties Tuberous Begonia For Outdoors Hardy Tuberous Begonia For Outdoors Fibrous-Rooted Begonia For Outdoors Fibrous-Rooted Begonia For Indoors Cane-Stemmed Begonia For Indoors Rhizomatous Begonia For Indoors Semi-Tuberous Begonia For Indoors More Begonia Varieties References Available in such a mind-boggling array of species, cultivars, hybrids, begonias are among the most popular flowers for gardens and are popular as houseplants too. Many may begin by considering the colour of the flowers on certain cultivars. However, to make the right choice, it is first important to think about which type of begonia to grow. Begonias can be categorised according to whether they are grown outdoors, or as houseplants indoors. They are further broken down according to their root systems and growth habits, which determine many elements of their care. Outdoors, you can grow: Tuberous Begonia Hardy Tuberous Begonia Fibrous-Rooted Begonia Indoors Begonia are typically divided into: Fibrous-Rooted Begonia Cane-Stemmed Begonia Rhizomatous Begonia Semi-Tuberous Begonia As impossible as it is to cover the varieties of a genus whose species number to 1,900-plus and whose cultivars exceed 10,000, below we’ll take a look at each of the main categories and suggest which varieties to grow within each of these.1 Our selection is also meant to represent at least some of the astonishing depth and breadth of this genus. One variety may be a sight to see in big beds and a related one along a bigger border, while others would be best for a dainty hanging basket on the porch or a petite pot on the parapet. Expert Chosen Varieties Before we get to our primary list, we asked Begonia expert Janeen Randle (President of the Melbourne Begonia Society) to share her favourite varieties. “My favourite begonias to grow are cane begonias and trailing varieties,” says Janeen. “Begonias, particularly cane begonias, flower for such a long time where I live so there is always colour in the garden.” “The semi-tuberous species Begonia dregei, a native of South Africa also known as the ‘Maple Leaf’ begonia, is my favourite,” she explains. B. dregei “This beautiful plant forms a caudex at its base instead of a tuber and grows beautifully in a bonsai pot. “The hybrid Begonia ‘Weltoniensis’ also forms a caudex and is among my favourites. “I enjoy Rhizomatous and Rex begonias for their striking, colourful, textured leaves rather than their not-so-showy delicate flowers. “I am just venturing into growing tuberous begonias on a small scale.” Tuberous Begonia For Outdoors Begonia varieties within this group are typically derived from Begonia x tuberhybrida and varieties derived from B. boliviensis are also widely available. These Begonias grow from tubers, which can be planted in spring. B. x tuberhybrida varieties are prized for their bright colours and their long blooming period. Plants bear both male and female flowers separately on the same specimen – the male flowers are the stars of the show. B. boliviensis varieties are free flowering and floriferous. Some have excellent trailing or cascading forms which means they can be a great choice for raised containers or hanging baskets. Tuberous Begonias can be planted out in summer into beds and borders, but are particularly popular for growing in containers and hanging baskets. Container cultivation makes it easier to lift and store tubers in winter, so the plants can be enjoyed over multiple years. Though often, these plants will be enjoyed only over a single season. One To Try: B. boliviensis ‘Million Kisses Series’ The ‘Million Kisses’ series has a range of plants flowering in different colours which have a semi-trailing habit and which are great for containers and hanging baskets. ‘Yadev’ aka ‘Devotion’ is one option in this range, with an Award of Garden Merit. It has bright velvety red flowers held on pink stems above slender, sharply pointed green leaves edged in pale pink. Hardy Tuberous Begonia For Outdoors Another category includes those tuberous Begonia which are somewhat more hardy. These can be exotic plants to add to sunny or part-shaded borders in the late summer. With the protection of some mulch, they may be able to overwinter in the ground in the mildest areas, especially if placed in a sheltered spot, perhaps at the foot of a warm, south-facing wall. However, the tubers should still be lifted in most areas and overwintered in dry storage at temperatures above 2-4°C. One To Try: Begonia grandis subsp. evansiana (AGM) The hardiest variety to try in this category is B. grandis subsp. evansiana. This is hardy down to around 0°C. This has olive green leaves which are sometimes reddish underneath, and in the summer months, bears mildly fragrant pale pink or white flowers 2.3cm in diameter. Fibrous-Rooted Begonia For Outdoors Fibrous-rooted Begonia – varieties of B. semperflorens – are tender perennials but are usually grown as annual bedding plants. These can be grown from seed or purchased as young plants. They produce white, pink or red flowers throughout the summer and up until the first frosts. These are one of only a few bedding plants which can grow and flower satisfactorily in partial shade. One To Try: B. ‘Ambassador Series’ The ‘Ambassador’ Series (e.g. ‘Ambassador Rose’) is one group of free-flowering Begonia of this type to consider. This is a series of free-flowering bedding Begonia growing to around 20cm high, and blooming with flowers in a range of hues all summer long. Hardiness H1B. Fibrous-Rooted Begonia For Indoors B. ‘Evening Glow’ For indoors growing, the first of the four groups are further fibrous-rooted Begonias. These are tender perennials which have erect and sometimes shrub-like stems. Some are grown for their flowers but typically, these are prized particularly for their striking and bold foliage, which is often marked with silver or other hues. B. metallica and B. scharffii are two well-known options within this group. One To Try: Begonia metallica (AGM) This bushy evergreen perennial grows to around a metre in height, and has large, dramatic leaves of a dark green metallic hue, with red colouration on the veins and underside. The foliage is the main attraction, but these plants also have small, hairy pale pink flowers which are borne in autumn. Grow in acidic or neutral medium soil. Hardiness H1B. Cane-Stemmed Begonia For Indoors These Begonias are also fibrous-rooted, but they have woody and erect, bamboo-like stems with swollen nodes along their length. These Begonias are also prized as houseplants, primarily grown for their large, drooping flowers which bloom over a relatively long period, and their marked foliage. Most Begonia varieties in this category originate with plants which hail from Brazil. These include B. maculata and B. stipulata. One To Try: B. ‘Lucerna’ This is a vigorous houseplant, with erect cane stems, olive green broadly ovate leaves heavily spotted with silver. In the summer months, it bears large panicles of pink flowers 3-4cm across. Grow in acidic or neutral medium in a warm indoor spot. Hardiness H1B. Rhizomatous Begonia For Indoors Begonias of this category grow from a creeping rootstock. These tender, evergreen perennials are foliage plants – grown and prized for their brightly coloured leaves. Popular options within this category for use as houseplants include B. rex and B. masoniana. One To Try: B. rex (King Begonia) This grows to around 30cm tall, and has large leaves which are metallic green with a silvery surface zone on the upper surface of the leaves and a reddish colouration beneath. Though flowers are not the main attraction, the plant also bears panicles of small pink flowers in winter. Hardiness H1B. There are some amazing foliage plant cultivars of B. rex, including ‘Namur’, ‘Fireworks’ and ‘Green Sparkles’. Semi-Tuberous Begonia For Indoors These houseplant begonias are cultivars of B. x hiemalis, also known as B. x elatior. These varieties are hybrids between B. socotrana and B. tuberhybrida. They are usually winter-blooming and are frequently grown by florists. They are not ideal for long-term cultivation and so are usually discarded after they have flowered. One To Try: B. x hiemalis ‘Solenia Range’ This is one range of this type of houseplant Begonia, with a wide range of colours, which can perform and flower very well. However, other Begonias will still generally be better choices if you want a houseplant that you can enjoy over a longer time period. More Begonia Varieties Of course, the options above are just a brief introduction and just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the many different Begonia you could choose. Here are thirteen more interesting begonia varieties to grow, irrespective of their category or type: B. aconitifolia Bearing attractive slate-green leaves with opposing white streaks or spots, the flower is one of the most feminine in the genus, being pale pink with delicate petals arranged in panicles. B. brevirimosa A robust species reaching a height of 3m, if anything its foliage is even more striking than the plant, having variegated striping of forest green and a brilliant mauve on broad, chunky leaves. B. semperflorens ‘Doublet White’ The olive green waxy leaves are pretty in themselves but the profusion of tiny double blossoms of the ‘Doublet’ cultivar steal the show, with ‘Doublet White’ resembling balls of fluffy snow. B. ‘Escargot’ Reminding one of a snail’s shell, it has a distinct silvery whorl or spiral on a slate-green background on a massive obtuse-to-rounded leaf whose petiole has noticeable red hairs B. solananthera One of the rarer climbers, it has beautiful, smooth wavy, sea-green leaves which are more than matched by clusters of distinctive flowers having irregular creamy petals with a red centre. B. ‘Summer Jewels Mixed’ One of the most charming of varieties and akin to hillside wildflowers, this cultivar spreads and trails, showing off lush green foliage and simple-form flowers in white, and pink and red shades. B. ‘Munchkin’ Only 20cm tall but broad and bushy, the plant has smoky, bronze-green coloured leaves that are crinkly, almost frilled, at the edges, topped off by light green veins with deep red colouring on the underside B. ‘Illumination Apricot’ Sunset and flame more than apricot, the gorgeous deep yellow and orange hues of the sprays of single and double flowers atop textured, smoky, deep green leaves make for a dramatic plant. B. ‘Silver Jewell’ Bearing big broad leaves that are lightly puckered and almost cordate, it is the colour combination that is a work of art: viz. painted straps, streaks, and dapples of silver-to-cream on a deep green background. B. ‘Ziggy’ Bred to give stiff competition to roses – or simply be mistaken for a rose! – the ornate and showy flower is feminine and tender, and comes in a narrow range of colours from pink-tinged white to a deep pink, with the pale pink variety being the showstopper. B. ‘Regal Minuet’ While the form of the leaves is striking enough, being near-sagittate with toothed edges and a sharp point, the lustrous lamina with a purple-magenta hue and dark star at the base is the eye-puller. References 1. A Taxonomic Revision Of Begonia Veitchii (Begoniaceae). (2020). Edinburgh Journal of Botany, 77(1), 127–144. https://journals.rbge.org.uk/ejb/article/download/1753/1644/4860
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Add Begonia To Hanging Baskets For A Long-Lasting Summer Display - Experts Share How
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Your Basket Choosing Compost Planting Up Begonia Caring For Hanging Basket Begonia Begonias are great for adding cheery splashes of colour in any garden, no matter how large or small. There are a great many different options to choose from, which work well in a range of different settings and situations. One of the most popular ways to add Begonia to a garden is to add them to hanging baskets. These are often a great choice in hanging baskets for a long-lasting summer display. Though many different Begonias can be grown in hanging baskets, perhaps the best and certainly the most popular are the many different tuberous Begonias – and there are many different cultivars to choose from. The best options for hanging baskets are those with a trailing or cascading form. These will hang over the edges of the hanging basket and create a beautiful floriferous display. “I grow trailing scandent begonias in hanging baskets in trees where they can overhang and create another dimension in the garden,” shares Janeen from the Melbourne Begonia Society. You might also consider growing fibrous Begonia in hanging baskets. Choosing Your Basket If you have decided that you would like to create a hanging Begonia display, one of the first things that you will need to do is decide on which type of basket you would like. Remember, your hanging garden does not necessarily need to be contained within a typical basket at all. You can use a wide range of receptacles hung in a suitable spot to grow your Begonias (on their own, or combined with other suitable summer flowering plants). Often, making sure of reclaimed items and materials can be a fun, attractive, low-cost and eco-friendly choice. If you would rather not take the DIY route, there are of course many different hanging baskets on the market to choose from. You can opt for typical baskets, which are planted in the top, or choose an option which allows you to plant beneath and on the sides as well. If you are using a typical wire basket, you will need to line it. You can use moss from your lawn (if you haven’t applied any treatments to it), cardboard liners, or liners made from other fibrous materials like coconut coir, for example. Choosing Compost Fill your hanging basket or other chosen container with any peat-free multipurpose compost. Begonias are generally relatively unfussy and should do fine for a single season regardless of the exact composition of the medium you choose – as long as you water them, and otherwise care for them correctly. Planting Up Begonia How exactly you plant up your hanging basket will depend on whether you have purchased tubers for the purpose, or decided to opt for young plants in pots. If you have chosen tubers, you can start your tubers on a seed tray indoors, and plant them into a hanging basket after the last frost date in your area. If you purchase young plug plants or young plants in pots, these should also be planted into the hanging basket in the spring, after all risk of frost has passed where you live. How Many Can You Plant Per Basket? Typically, you should aim to plant around 3-4 Begonia in a basket around 40cm across, though this can vary depending on the variety you have gone for, and the specific basket or hanging container in question. You might also choose to add other plants alongside Begonias to create mixed displays. If you place 3 Begonia, you might also add some ivy, other foliage plants, or other flowering plants suited to similar conditions. Caring For Hanging Basket Begonia Place hanging baskets with Begonia in full sun or partial shade, ideally in a sheltered spot. Water well and regularly – remember that hanging baskets can dry out much more quickly even than other containers. If possible, try to water the roots and not the foliage and flowers. “Trailing scandents respond well to training the new growth around the basket until it is quite full then letting the growth overhang,” says Janeen, when discussing how to care for begonias growing in hanging baskets. Feed with a potassium-rich liquid plant feed in the summer during the flowering period, every 4-6 weeks. Begonias are frequently treated as annuals when grown outdoors. If you wish to keep the tuberous Begonias going for next year, lift the tubers in September, before the first frosts, and store them dry in barely moist sand or soil in a frost-free location – ideally at around 7°C.
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How To Sow Swiss Chard Directly Outdoors (Or Under Cover If Growing In Autumn)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Swiss Chard Seeds 1) Harvesting Chard Seeds 2) Fill Shallow Pots 3) Sow Seeds 4) Growing On Swiss chard, or leaf beet as it is commonly known, is a biennial vegetable that is best eaten in its first year of growth. Growing Swiss Chard from seed is an easy process and can be sown direct or undercover to plant out later, depending on your requirements. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Module or seed tray, compost, rake (if sowing direct) When To Sow March – September When To Plant Out April – September Watch this short video from Emily Cupit where she sows Swiss Chard in her garden at home: Here’s a simple process for growing Swiss chard from seed: Harvest seeds from the pods of existing plants, or purchase seeds from your chosen retailer. Prepare the soil or fill shallow pots with a peat-free growing medium. Sow seeds at a depth of 2cm. Growing on the seedlings. This process is explained in more depth below: When To Sow Swiss Chard Seeds Swiss chard seed can be sown directly into the soil from spring until summer or in an unheated greenhouse from a little earlier. It can also be sown under cover in the autumn to crop the following year. 1) Harvesting Chard Seeds Swiss chard seeds can be collected and stored from plants in their second year of growth, to save until spring to sow. “I don’t typically save chard seeds as I remove the crop at the end of the season to prepare for next season’s sowings,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “With a small vegetable garden, I prefer to use the space to grow as many crops as possible in succession. I, therefore, tend to rely on purchasing seeds unless they can be harvested in the first year (such as tomatoes).” To collect the seeds, allow the seed stalks to dry and wait until the seeds are completely brown before harvesting and storing in a cool, dark and dry environment. 2) Fill Shallow Pots From spring onwards, once the ground is workable and has warmed up a little, the sowing area can be prepared by raking to a fine tilth. Chard prefers a fertile soil, so adding some well-rotted manure or garden compost to the soil the previous season can be beneficial. If sowing undercover, module or seed trays can be filled with a peat-free multi-purpose compost ready for sowing. 3) Sow Seeds Swiss chard seeds are fairly large and easy to handle making them a good plant for growing with children. Sow the seeds individually in module cells or thinly in seed trays and water in well, being careful not to displace the seed. If sowing direct, the seed can be sown at the same depth in drills or holes, but at a spacing of 10–15cm apart and again watered in thoroughly. 4) Growing On Keep the soil moist and once germinated and large enough to handle, plants started off undercover can be pricked out into individual pots or planted out in their final position. With directly sown Swiss chard, the seedlings need to be thinned to a final spacing of 30cm to allow the plants room to grow as they mature. As the new plants mature, continue to keep the soil moist and a layer of mulch can be added around the plants to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds. If picked as small leaves, successional sowing every 2–4 weeks will provide a bountiful supply – or if harvesting as large leaves and sowing in spring and then one later in summer should suffice.
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