Growing
Use Staggered Sowings To Harvest Kale Throughout The Year - Emily Cupit Shares How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Kale How To Harvest Kale Storing & Using Kale Kale is absolutely one of the very best crops for UK gardeners to grow – and one of the easiest too. There are a number of different varieties to choose from which offer quite a lot of variety, and if you sow and grow it in the right places and at the right times, you can potentially harvest kale all year round. Typically, kale is sown between March and June or July in the UK and is harvested between around September and March. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or scissors When To Harvest All Year-Round Outdoors Kale is not typically harvested as much, if at all over the summer, since the leaves taste better in the cold. However, you can also sow kale at any time indoors for micro-greens or baby leaves – so you could be eating fresh kale all year round. “I have found that growing kale as a salad crop is a great way to include it in the household menu in the summer months, particularly in a salad,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I grow trays in a greenhouse, which also avoids some of the airborne munchers of kale (although not slugs or snails!).” Staggered sowings will ensure that you have kale to eat throughout much of the year, since kale can be harvested at a range of different stages of growth. While kale is most commonly considered as an annual crop, you should note that there are also some perennial types that you will be able to harvest not only for a single season but over several years. When To Harvest Kale There are several different options when it comes to harvesting kale, since you can harvest it at any stage of growth. You can: Grow kale for micro-greens, harvesting when the leaves are still very, very small. Pick kale leaves young for fresh salads. Pick leaves once they are more mature to cook, dry, or use in other ways. You can pick little and often to prolong the harvest over a considerable period, since new leaves will grow on your plants. Kale micro-greens can be harvested after just 8-12 days or so. Once the kale develops true leaves, you can harvest it at any time. Though if you would like your kale to grow into a larger, full-sized plant then you should not pick too many leaves until it has grown for longer. When precisely mature leaves are ready for harvest will depend on the variety you have chosen and a range of other factors. But typically, you will harvest kale between 55-75 days after sowing. Smaller leaves are more tender than larger ones, so when you choose to harvest them will obviously depend on what you would like to do with them. How To Harvest Kale To harvest kale, follow these steps: Decide at what stage you would like to harvest the kale you have grown. For micro-greens, simply use some scissors to cut off the tiny brassica seedlings. For baby kale leaves, take leaves as required, taking the larger leaves from closest to the base of the plant. Don’t take too many if you want the kale to continue to grow. Mature leaves should also be harvested from the bottom first, working upwards. As you pick some, growth will continue and new leaves will grow. Simply snap off the leaves by hand, close to the central stem, or use some secateurs or scissors to cut them from the plant. Storing & Using Kale Micro-greens and baby leaves are best eaten fresh and raw, as soon as possible after you harvest. They are great for salads, sandwiches and more. Larger kale leaves work best in cooked recipes – they can also be turned into kale crisps, or dried for later use. You might also blitz a few leaves to add to fruit smoothies. You can also keep them in a sealed container in the fridge for a week or so, or blanch then freeze them for longer-term storage. Since you can make use of kale in so many ways, it is a plant that just keeps on giving – you will surely find it a great plant to grow in your garden.
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The Simplest Forms Of Dahlias Work Best For Potted Displays, Say These Growers
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing A Container Choosing Your Potting Mix Potting Up Dahlias How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Potted Dahlia Care Dahlias are hugely popular garden flowers and with good reason. There are a massive variety of dahlias to choose from, in a wide range of shapes and sizes, with lots of variety in bloom shape, size and colour. Dahlias are commonly used in cottage garden-style borders, but where space is more limited, many dahlias can also be grown in containers. “I absolutely love dahlias and think they work brilliantly when grown in pots,” shares Tamsin Westhorpe, a Garden Writer and Horticulturist. “I think if you’ve got a small garden and somewhere indoors where you can overwinter the tubers, I don’t think you can beat a dahlia. You can cut them, they go on forever and they give you colour for a long time.” When deciding whether you can grow dahlias in pots, the most important thing to consider is the size of the particular cultivar that you have chosen to grow. Some smaller types are far better suited to container cultivation. “Sometimes, the simplest forms of dahlias, such as the dark-leaved, open-centred varieties, can give a fabulous display in pots, with the added advantage that they will attract all types of pollinators,” says David Hall, manager and director of the specialist dahlia nursery Halls of Heddon. Remember, while dahlias can work well in pots, it will usually involve a little more work and effort than growing them in the ground. You will need to work a little harder to keep on top of the plants’ water needs and must strive to maintain fertility over time. Many dahlias may need some support as they grow, and the container you choose will have to be sturdy and heavy enough to support taller growth. Choosing A Container When choosing a container for dahlias, you should choose a pot of sufficient size. Though due to the root systems of these plants, it will not need to be particularly deep, as David explains: “Obviously, tall varieties in pots are going to be much more vulnerable to blowing over so a wider-based pot will be more suitable.” A pot around 30-40cm wide, and around 30cm deep will usually be large enough to accommodate most dahlia plants. Containers should be sturdy and heavy enough not to blow or topple over – especially if you are growing a taller dahlia cultivar. The container should of course have good drainage at the base. Choosing Your Potting Mix Fill your chosen container or containers with a good quality peat-free multi-purpose compost or a homemade blend, mixed with homemade compost or a well-rotted manure. “I would recommend adding water-retaining gel to your compost, as it is important not to let Dahlias dry out too much,” Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant, recommends. “You may be able to find a potting mix with it already added at some garden centres” Potting Up Dahlias If you have purchased a potted dahlia plant, the plant should be placed at the same depth in its new container as it was in its previous pot. Make sure that there is growing medium all around the tubers and root system, and that there are no air pockets around the plant. Firm the soil around the plant and water it in well. Mulch around the top of the container with organic matter. “I’ve even found that the smaller bedding/patio types are better with some support, even if it’s just a few canes and some string around them to tie them in,” says David. You should add your support when planting, so you don’t impact the growth of roots later on in the process. You can also grow dahlias from tubers, from cuttings, or from seed. Start tubers indoors around February, potting up divided tubers into individual pots when they are around 3cm high. Place outdoors in May or early June, or plant them directly into containers outdoors from April. Place a tuber with shoots around 10-15cm deep in your container. If growing dahlias from seed, prick out seedlings into individual small pots, then harden off and place into their final growing positions (which can be in containers) in late May or June. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Typically, dahlias require a reasonable amount of space to grow. Jack Gott, the owner of JRG Dahlias, recommends planting 3 dahlias in a large pot, but you should keep in mind that they do need some space to grow. They should usually be spaced around 50-60cm apart. So typically, unless using a very large container, you will grow just a single plant in each container to grow to maturity. Potted Dahlia Care Dahlias can grow well in containers, but do require some care. “It is vital to provide sufficient water to plants in pots, including dahlias,” says Elaine from Dachshund Dahlias. Water well in dry weather, trying to water soil and not splashing water on leaves or flowers. It is best to water deeply, and less frequently rather than little and often, as shallow watering encourages shallower root formation. Replenish mulch around the top of the container each spring for fertility and moisture retention. Feed dahlias in pots once a week or so with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed. Remember to stake taller cultivars for support, as June states: “The plants will need to be supported, usually with 3 canes and some string.” “The pots should also be rotated a 1/4 turn every other day to give the plant equal light and ensure equal growth,” adds June. Look out for slugs, snails and other pests – remain vigilant to stay on top of any potential problems. “Keep an eye out for insect damage and use an insecticide where needed, being careful to follow the maker’s instructions,” says June. Harvest dahlias for cut flowers, and deadhead every week or so during the blooming period to encourage further blooms. “Remove lower foliage to promote airflow and reduce issues with mould and rotting leaves,” says Elaine. “You can easily tend to plants in pots as they are more accessible.” After dahlias begin to die back in autumn and enter their dormant phase for winter, you can either move the container under cover into a frost-free location or lift and store the tubers in potting compost or sand in a frost-free place. After all risk of frost has passed, you can move the dahlias back outdoors and they should regrow and bloom again and again over a number of years.
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Dianthus In Pots - The Best Options To Grow Have Compact Growth Habits
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Dianthus Containers Choosing Compost Potting Up Dianthus Potted Dianthus Care Dianthus such as Pinks and Sweet William can be excellent choices for many gardens. Dianthus prefer a sunny and free-draining spot, ideally, usually, in alkaline or neutral soil. They can also often be excellent options for growing in containers. While many Dianthus species and cultivars can work very well in containers, it is important to understand that some will be better suited to growing in pots than others. The best options are usually those which are more compact in their growth habits – such as alpine pinks, small border carnations etc. Though even larger Dianthus may work well in containers as long as these are sturdy enough and of sufficient size. Choosing Dianthus Containers When choosing a container for a Dianthus, it is important to understand how large the cultivar or variety that you have chosen can be expected to grow. It is also important to note, if you are planning an outside container garden, that while most Dianthus are fully hardy, there are some florist’s carnations which are perpetual flowering and grown in a greenhouse year-round. Dianthus can differ in their growing requirements. Most, however, require relatively free draining conditions in full sun – make sure that the container you choose allows water to drain away freely from the base. The Dianthus should not be too constricted, but should also not be given too much room. In too large a pot, with too much growing medium around the roots, waterlogging can become a problem. Choosing Compost The medium that you choose to fill your containers will depend on the stage of growth of your Dianthus, and also whether you intend to keep the Dianthus in the pot only for a certain period of time before planting out into a garden, or will grow Dianthus in containers over the longer term. Just remember that, in general, you should use a peat-free compost mix, and that mix should be free-draining. But also, the medium should not dry out entirely. Aim to keep it just moist. Potting Up Dianthus Dianthus are usually potted up or planted after risk of frost has passed, in the spring. Though purchased plants can often be potted up throughout the summer and into early autumn too. Remember that Dianthus that will grow outside in your garden typically do best when positioned in a site with full sun. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Larger Dianthus varieties may be potted up into their own individual pots, while smaller types, like alpine pinks, may well be planted with several in a larger pot, or grown in a larger container alongside other alpine plants. You might consider growing smaller pinks alongside a range of other alpines, or, for example, perennial Salvias, lavender, hyssop and thyme, for example – all of which also like sunny and free-draining conditions. When planting up mixed containers, however, remember that Dianthus does not usually like to be too crowded with other plants. An open and uncongested position with reasonably good airflow will see them perform at their best. Potted Dianthus Care Place containers in a sunny position in your garden. Rabbits love Dianthus so you may need to choose a location rabbits cannot reach if you have lots of these in your area. Water moderately and take care to avoid overwatering and waterlogging. Remain vigilant for signs of pests or disease. Dianthus are often trouble-free, but issues can occur and it is important to keep a look out and deal with any issues before they become more of a problem. Deadhead Dianthus after the first blooms fade (often, though not always, you can obtain a second and sometimes even a third flowering from these plants). After deadheading, feed with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed to encourage further flowering and keep the plants healthy. In autumn, cut back faded blooms and remove any straggly leaves – give the plants a light trim to encourage fresh foliage growth. If the foliage of a mature perennial Dianthus gets frost damaged in winter, cut back hard to a couple of centimetres above the medium’s surface. Move container-grown Dianthus to a sheltered location to protect them from winter cold and especially winter wet. Remember that plants in pots are less insulated and more vulnerable than those in the ground. “If I bring Dianthus into an unheated greenhouse for the winter, I like to give them a good trim to thin them out, otherwise I know I will be dealing with Botrytis (grey mould) due to the lack of airflow and the damp conditions,” says Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant.
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Remove Spent Flowers And Feed - Here's How To Deadhead Dianthus Effectively
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Wait For Dianthus Blooms To Die Back 2) Examine Stems For New Buds 3) Remove Spent Flowers 4) Feed Your Deadheaded Dianthus Dianthus is a varied genus of flowering plants which includes many garden favourites. The most popular Dianthus to grow in the UK are those known as ‘garden pinks’. They are known as pinks not for their hue, but rather for the serrated edges which make the flowers look as though they have been trimmed with pinking shears. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs, gloves (optional) When To Deadhead June – September There are a huge variety of pinks to choose from – and you might also grow other popular Dianthus, such as florist’s carnations, and Sweet William. Many pinks and other Dianthus (excepting some old-fashioned varietals) can be coaxed into a second flush of flowers by deadheading. To deadhead Dianthus: Wait for the initial Dianthus blooms to die back. Examine the stems for new buds. Cut back to remove the spent blooms. Feed the plant with a potassium-rich feed to encourage further blooms. Below you will find a more detailed description of this simple process: 1) Wait For Dianthus Blooms To Die Back Dianthus are often used for cut flowers. If you are harvesting your blooms to use in your home, then deadheading may not be necessary. However, if you have enjoyed the blooms in the garden rather than cutting them, then you should wait for the first flowers to die back before you deadhead. Of course, the precise timing for this job will depend on the specific type of Dianthus and the variety that you have chosen to grow, and when it will be expected to bloom. 2) Examine Stems For New Buds On some types of Dianthus, buds may already be present on the stems when the first flowers fade. So before you deadhead to remove the spent flowers, you should take a good look at the stems to ensure that you do not cut off any buds and deprive yourself of these future flowers. 3) Remove Spent Flowers Where buds are present, cut back to just above a bud. Where there are no buds, cut back to just below the first set of leaves. “The best tool I have found for working with Dianthus is Micro Snips,” shares Horticulturist Dan Ori. “The whole tool is about 10cm long at most so they are less likely to damage other flower buds while you are working on the plant.” 4) Feed Your Deadheaded Dianthus This next step is really the most important one. In order to encourage the plant to bloom with a second (and sometimes even a third) flush of flowers, it is important to feed it to keep it in the best possible health. After deadheading, it is the best idea to feed the plant with an organic liquid plant feed. This should be similar to the type of liquid feed used for tomatoes – a feed which is high in potassium, which should encourage good flower formation. Deadhead once more after the second flush of flowers at the end of the season in autumn, also removing any leaves which look straggly. Lightly trim the foliage in order to encourage fresh growth and to slow the process of the plants sprawling and becoming woody at the base. Dianthus tend not to live all that long – but care for them correctly and they should flower over five or six years or so.
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Dianthus Needs Replacing After 5-6 Years: Propagate From Cuttings To Keep Them
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Take & Prepare Your Dianthus Cutting 2) Place Cuttings Into A Pot 3) Cover The Cuttings 4) Wait for Rooting Then Repot 5) Overwinter Under Cover 6) Plant Out In Spring Dianthus is a genus which offers a wide range of beautiful flowers for your garden. However, they are often only relatively short-lived plants. After a time, pinks will tend to sprawl and become woody at their base. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Knife or secateurs, compost mix, pots, rooting powder (optional) When To Take Cuttings June – September How long they will thrive in your garden will very much depend on which type of Dianthus you are growing, but many may need to be replaced after 5-6 years or so. This means that if you want to continue growing the Dianthus you love over a longer time, you will need to propagate existing plants to maintain their presence in your growing areas. “An easy method for propagating Dianthus is to use the layering method,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “This is where a stem from an existing plant is scored slightly with a knife and pinned down into the surrounding soil or compost. “After a couple of months, the stem will have rooted and can be cut away and potted up separately.” Fortunately, it is also pretty easy to propagate a Dianthus that may be nearing the end of its life, or beginning to look a little less attractive by taking cuttings (also known as pipings) from a mature plant. To grow Dianthus from cuttings: Choose a healthy non-flowering shoot and take a cutting around 6cm long, then prepare it for planting. Place the cuttings into a pot of moist cutting medium. Place a cover over the cuttings and place them on a sunny windowsill. Once cuttings have rooted (usually in 4-6 weeks) pot them on into their own separate pots. Overwinter in a cool greenhouse or cold frame and plant the cuttings out in the garden the following spring. Below, we explain this process in a little more depth – read on to understand a little more about the process involved in growing Dianthus from cuttings. 1) Take & Prepare Your Dianthus Cutting Any time between June and September, examine any mature Dianthus – especially one that you feel may be past its best. Look for a healthy, non-flowering shoot, and take off a cutting of around 6cm, cutting just below a node, using a clean and sharp gardening knife. Prepare the cutting by removing the lower leaves. Optionally, you might also consider dipping the end in rooting powder, which could increase the chances of a cutting rooting successfully. Though this step is not strictly essential and often you will find that the cuttings take perfectly well without this option. 2) Place Cuttings Into A Pot Once you have prepared your cuttings, you should insert them immediately around the edges of a pot filled with a suitable peat-free cutting compost or home-made medium. Make sure that the medium has been watered before you insert the cuttings, and that it is moist and yet not saturated. Ensure that water can drain away freely. 3) Cover The Cuttings In order to prevent the cuttings from drying out, it is a good idea to over the cuttings over with a propagator lid, or a plastic bag secured with an elastic band around the top of the pot. The covered cuttings should be placed on a bright windowsill out of direct sun. 4) Wait for Rooting Then Repot Your cuttings should have rooted within a month to six weeks. You’ll know when the cuttings have rooted when fresh growth is visible. 5) Overwinter Under Cover Once the cuttings have rooted well, carefully remove the cuttings from the pot, gently separate them with their own roots and plant them into their own individual pots with a peat-free multipurpose compost. Water in the cuttings and then place them into a cool greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frame where they will be able to overwinter. Keep them watered, but take care not to overwater and always allow excess water to drain away. 6) Plant Out In Spring You will usually then plant out your new Dianthus plants into their final growing positions in spring of the following year.
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From 'Clove' To 'Rockin Red' - Here Are 18 Dianthus Varieties With Many Award Winners
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. ‘Leon Tautz’ 2) D. ‘Jean Knight’ 3) D. ‘Chesswood Margaret Alison’ 4) D. ‘Mambo’ 5) D. ‘Pixie Star’ 6) D. ‘Dainty Dame’ 7) D. ‘Pinball Wizard’ 8) D. ‘Rhian’s Choice’ 9) D. ‘Auricula-Eyed Mixed’ 10) D. ‘Sooty’ 11) D. ‘Maiden Pink’ 12) D. ‘Clove’ 13) D. ‘Rockin Red’ 14) D. ‘Rose De Mai’ 15) D. ‘Pink Kisses’ 16) D. ‘Georgia Peach Pie’ 17) D. ‘Oscar Pink’ 18) D. ‘Kawaranadesiko’ References Dianthus comprise an assortment of thousands of varieties – of which 114 have been awarded the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit.1 Underneath we present a mere taste of what this wonderful genus has in store for gardeners. All the carnation and garden pink varieties exhibit the classic greyish-bluish-green foliage that is such a well-known attribute of these two species’ varieties. All the carnation and garden pink varieties are evergreen perennials while the two Sweet William varieties are biennials. 1) D. ‘Leon Tautz’ A tall border carnation that can reach 75cm. It has a bushy habit. It flowers only during part of the summer but no matter how brief the flowering season may be, the brilliant and stunning bloom, up to 6cm in diameter, makes up for it. It has a pure white ground with vivid purplish-crimson flecks, splashes and edging. 2) D. ‘Jean Knight’ Also a border carnation, this variety grows up to 50cm. It has a bushy habit and blooms during the summer. The flower is 7-8cm wide, and is one for the manor garden, being pure white with purplish-crimson edging that bleeds over into flecks and streaks. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 3) D. ‘Chesswood Margaret Alison’ Another tallish border Carnation that blooms during summer. Its foliage has a very bluish tone. The double flowers are large at about 7cm and are a remarkable cerise rose pink, call it ‘Slate Rose.’ It possesses a feature that Dianthus are famed for: a spicy fragrance. The flowers have a strong clove-like scent. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 4) D. ‘Mambo’ A perpetually flowering variety that is grown year-round under glass for floriculture and exhibition. This bushy variety attains a height and spread of over 1m. The large, fully double flowers are in gorgeous tones of orangeish-yellow with the colouration being gently gradated. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 5) D. ‘Pixie Star’ A dwarf variety at only about 20cm with a similar spread. The foliage has an obvious bluish tinge. The blooming season starts from mid-spring and continues into summer. The small single flowers are most charming; they are candy pink with a lipstick red central ring. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 6) D. ‘Dainty Dame’ Another dwarf variety at only about 25cm with a similar spread. The small single flowers are pure white with a very contrasty maroon central ring. These upbeat flowers have a suitably strong scent that carries a hint of spice. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 7) D. ‘Pinball Wizard’ A mid-height variety that reaches around 40cm. It has a bushy habit. Blooming during the summer, its double flowers are of the palest pink with flecking and feathering of a vivid pink. These comparatively refined and elegant Pinks have a mildly spicy scent. 8) D. ‘Rhian’s Choice’ This variety grows to about 30cm and has a bushy habit. Even by Dianthus standards, this variety’s foliage is markedly bluish-grey. The double flowers are 5-5.5cm in width, and bloom during summer. They are truly eye-pulling stunners by virtue of their striking hue which varies from intense red to blood red. 9) D. ‘Auricula-Eyed Mixed’ Grows to about 45cm and has an upright habit. This Dianthus’s foliage is neither greyish nor bluish but is very green. It bears merry clusters of bright pink, magenta, and purplish flowers with white or pale eyes. These blooms are quite fragrant and bloom from late spring through summer. 10) D. ‘Sooty’ Grows to about 45cm and has a bushy, mounding form. It has intensely green foliage. It bears clusters of small flowers during the summer, and they are seriously (yes, again) stunning. The hue varies from maroon-black to violet-black, and the intense effect is heightened by a velvety sheen. 11) D. ‘Maiden Pink’ 12) D. ‘Clove’ 13) D. ‘Rockin Red’ 14) D. ‘Rose De Mai’ 15) D. ‘Pink Kisses’ 16) D. ‘Georgia Peach Pie’ 17) D. ‘Oscar Pink’ 18) D. ‘Kawaranadesiko’ We hope you enjoyed this list of our favourite dianthus. If you didn’t find a variety that piqued your interest then keep looking – there are literally thousands to choose from! References 1. See RHS lists of top AGM garden-worthy plants, fruit & veg. (n.d.-b). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved May 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/trials-awards/award-of-garden-merit/agm-lists
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Seed Sowing Geraniums Is The Best Option If A Large Number Of Plants Are Required
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Geranium Seeds 1) Prepare Suitable Containers 2) Sow Geranium Seeds 3) Wait For Germination 4) Prick Out & Pot On Geranium Seedlings 5) Plant Out From Late Spring Both tender Geraniums (technically Pelargoniums) and hardy Geraniums are popular additions to UK gardens, and both can be grown from plug plants or cuttings. “Cuttings or divisions are the easiest means of propagating Pelargonium and Geranium, but seed sowing is the preferable option if a large number of plants are required, such as for summer bedding,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. Many Geranium types can also be cultivated from seed by following this simple process: Sow Pelargonium seeds in late winter indoors or in another frost free location. Sow hardy Geranium seeds in autumn or in spring. Prepare suitable seed trays or pots filled with a seed starting compost. Sow the seeds on a firmed surface, and cover lightly with compost/ grit. Wait for germination to take place. Prick out and pot up seedlings once they are large enough to handle. Grow on and then plant out in late spring. If you are looking to grow Pelargonium in your garden from seed, Zonal bedding type Pelargoniums and species like Pelargonium odoratissimum can relatively easily be grown or propagated in this way. Difficulty Moderate Equipment Required Seeds, pots or seed trays, potting medium, heated propagator (optional) When To Sow February – April, September – October When To Plant Out May – June Hardy Geraniums can often also be sown from seed. However, this is a long and time-consuming business and is not usually the easiest way to obtain these plants for your garden. It is worth noting that some Geranium species and cultivars will come true from seed while others will not. Hardy types grown from seed can usually take a couple of years to reach their full potential. Hardy Geraniums often self-seed readily, and volunteer seedlings can easily be potted up and placed elsewhere in your garden. Read on for more information about this process – just remember that there will be a lot of variance depending on which specific type and cultivar of Geranium you plan to grow. When To Sow Geranium Seeds Pelargonium seeds should be sown in late winter (late January/ February) indoors or under cover. For many types, a heated propagator will be required to provide sufficient temperatures for good germination rates. Typically, seeds of tender types will germinate best between 22-26°C and as much light as possible. Hardy Geranium seeds can be sown either in autumn or in spring. 1) Prepare Suitable Containers Geraniums can all be sown into seed trays or small pots. These should be filled with a suitable seed-starting compost or growing medium, which is moist yet free-draining. Using a soil-less potting medium can be a good idea as Geraniums can sometimes be prone to fungal issues like damping off. Make sure that you practice good hygiene to reduce the chances of an issue of this type. 2) Sow Geranium Seeds Both pelargonium and hardy Geranium seeds should be pressed evenly into the firmed surface of the moist growing medium, then covered over only lightly with a mix of compost and grit. 3) Wait For Germination In a bright location, indoors or under cover, in suitable conditions, Pelargonium seeds can be expected to germinate within a few weeks, and most types should flower around 16 weeks from sowing. With hardy Geraniums, it is important to make sure that the medium does not dry out completely. Hardy Geraniums may germinate at different rates after a period of cold stratification, but usually, the main flush of germination, whether the seeds are sown in autumn or early spring, is expected in late spring. Most species flower a year after germination, but some take two years. 4) Prick Out & Pot On Geranium Seedlings Once Pelargonium or Geranium seedlings are large enough to handle, these can then be pricked out and potted into pots filled with a good quality peat-free compost. 5) Plant Out From Late Spring Once they have rooted strongly, Geraniums can be planted out from late spring. With tender types, it is of course of paramount importance that you do not plant out too early, as a late frost could kill these plants. Make sure that you harden off plants sown and grown on indoors before planting out. Also, ensure that you choose a planting position for your new plants that is suited to the particular species or cultivar that you have chosen to grow.
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Choosing The Best Hardy Geranium Varieties With Gary Carroll From Cranesbill Nursery
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties 1) G. ‘Gerwat’ 2) G. robertianum 3) G. maculatum 4) G. ‘Melinda’ 5) G. x cantabrigiense ‘Karmina’ 6) G. cinereum 7) G. arboreum 8) G. ‘Danny Boy’ 9) G. ‘Dreamland’ 10) G. clarkei ‘Kashmir White’ 11) G. ‘Orion’ 12) G. ‘Mavis Simpson’ 13) G. ‘Ann Folkard’ 14) G. nodosum 15) G. pratense ‘Mrs. Kendall Clark’ References The Geranium genus consists of hundreds of species and cultivars. First, though Geraniums themselves are very easy to grow and care for, many varieties make life tough for weeds, tending to stifle them! Next, the habits and forms of the many varieties cover the gamut of mat-forming, creeping, mounding, clumping, bushy, spreading, erect, and upright; naturally, therefore, varieties’ heights range from a mere 12cm to well over a full metre. Finally, a thumping 57 varieties have been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit. In this list we share fifteen of our favourite varieties to grow in the UK, but first – here are some of our expert’s favourites to grow: Expert-Chosen Varieties “I love Geranium psilostemon for its punch of colour, shape and height,” shares award-winning Garden Designer Manoj Maldé. “It also gives a second flush of blooms, which I love.” We also spoke with Gary Carroll from Cranesbill Nursery and Suzie Dewey from The Hardy Geranium Nursery to ask which of the many Geranium varieties they grow stand out as their favourites. “There are some types that are a bit more fussy than others; for example the cinereums which are the little alpine types, really need good drainage and need to be in full sun to thrive.” says Gary. “The pratenses need to be in full sun, but they need consistently moist soil, as do the phaeums, however these can tolerate sun or shade. “But it’s really not difficult to find the ideal plant for your situation and there’s usually plenty of choice.” So which are Gary’s favourites? G. himalayense ‘Kaya’ Himalayan Geraniums “My overall favourite Geranium is one called ‘Kaya’. “It’s a himalayense type but it has red/bronze and green foliage. The flowers are a lovely deep blue and I think the contrast is just gorgeous.” G. wlassovianum “I also love the wlassovianums for their foliage. They have nice purple flowers but the foliage is a copper-tinged green and the shape of it is very architectural. “Plus it feels nice and soft to the touch! There’s wlassovianum itself and varieties like ‘Lakwijk Star’ and ‘Crug Farm’.” G. sanguineum Then my other favourite type are the sanguineums. These come in a variety of colours from white to pink and many shades of cerise/magenta. They’re a simple plant but very pretty and really easy to grow, plus their foliage is quite different to most other Geraniums and I find it very handsome! Probably my favourite varieties of these would be ‘Hannelore’, ‘New Hampshire Purple’ and the variation striatum. Suzie’s favourites are the Phaeum species: G. phaeum “It’s hard for me to pick specific favourites, there are so many geraniums I enjoy for many different reasons. “[But] I love the whole of the phaeum species. The flower colours range from dark red (almost black) to the palest of pinks, they are vigorous and take no time at all to bulk up and provide a great springtime display taking over from your winter bulbs. “I especially like ‘Wendy’s Blush’. Her flowers are delicate pale pink, almost white, with a purple halo in the centre, as the flowers mature they turn to a beautiful blush pink. “A gorgeous geranium bred by Andre Ekkelbloom and named for his wife.” G. renardii “Another that I really enjoy and for me, I feel like it heralds spring, is G. renardii. “Its glaucous, heavily textured foliage is unusual compared to the majority of geranium species and when the large white flowers open it feels like they’re making an announcement ‘Winter is almost over, spring is coming’.” Here are 15 further varieties which are favourites of our editorial team: 1) G. ‘Gerwat’ Why not open our run-through of selected varieties with one of the most renowned and most-desired varieties of any plant, G. ‘Gerwat’, also known as G. ‘Rozanne’. A winner of awards on both sides of the Atlantic, it is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Getting on the shortlist for the RHS Plant of the Centenary at the Chelsea Flower Show for the decade 1993-2002, it was the outright winner of the public vote.1 It was also the Perennial Plant Association’s Plant of the Year for 2008.2 Even by exalted Geranium standards, this variety is a vigorous and trouble-free variety and is known as a prolific bloomer over an unusually long flowering season that begins in spring and continues through autumn. It has a matching height and spread of 50-60cm. The remarkably pretty 5cm flowers have a whitish centre, and purple venation running through true violet petals. 2) G. robertianum ‘Herb Robert’ is known by numerous colloquial names. “Often removed as a weed from the garden, I always leave a few because it really is a very attractive plant and often looks ‘right’ where it sows itself,” says Colin Skelly, a Consultant and Horticulturist. It is a very important species in Naturopathy and is native to the British Isles. The leaves are unusual in being so heavily dissected as to be palmate. The small disk-shaped flower is a magenta-pink with scarlet-puple veins, sometimes broad or blotchy. It grows to about 30cm high and wide. 3) G. maculatum This variety has a clumping form and grows to about 50cm with a width of about 40cm. Though it has a relatively brief blooming season by Geranium norms, the breathtakingly lovely flowers make up for it. The salver-shaped blooms have a white centre and are a pale, baby pink shade on which the yellow anthers deliver a striking contrast. It is native to the United States and several wonderful cultivars have been developed from it, like G. maculatum ‘Elizabeth Ann’, an RHS Award of Garden Merit recipient. 4) G. ‘Melinda’ This also has a clumping form and with the same height and width as G. maculatum. It blooms in summer and autumn. Its purple venation is so unusually prominent and patterned on the pinkish-white petals that it lends the flower a classical delicacy and fragility, bringing to mind Victorian Era porcelain showpieces. 5) G. x cantabrigiense ‘Karmina’ This geranium variety makes do with full sun to full shade, has a prolonged blooming season, and has a mat-forming habit, growing to only 15-20cm. As such it is a top choice for groundcover, especially as the disk-shaped flowers of a solid bright lilac-pink hue are both acutely pretty and fragrant. 6) G. cinereum Another mat-forming variety with a height similar to G. x cantabrigiense ‘Karmina’ and nearly matching its long blooming season, making it too a top choice for groundcover and rock gardens. But flower-wise it is similar to G. ‘Melinda’ as its blooms too are very fragile and refined. The petals’ distal ends have a deep notch and on their pinkish-white base runs a delicate network of purple veins. As with G. maculatum – to repeat ourselves – several wonderful cultivars have been developed from it, for example, G. cinereum ‘Ballerina’, an RHS Award of Garden Merit recipient. 7) G. arboreum Otherwise known as ‘Hawaii Red Cranesbill’, this is an endangered species that has an official status of ‘Critically Imperilled’ and, sadly, is on the road to extinction, at least in the wild.3 It grows only in a few gulches in Maui. At 2-3.7m in height, it is a giant among Geraniums. The flower is even more unusual; it is of a brilliant magenta-red hue with curled and furled petals, the only ones to exhibit this trait among Geraniums. 8) G. ‘Danny Boy’ Exhibits an extraordinary spreading habit that is open and not dense. Though it is a respectable 50cm high, it spreads to 1.5m and may span even 2m. It blooms throughout summer, putting on a colour spectacle with its vivid and vibrant purple flowers whose venation comprises of mere streaks in a shifted tone of purple. Other varieties that are well worth looking into include: 9) G. ‘Dreamland’ 10) G. clarkei ‘Kashmir White’ 11) G. ‘Orion’ 12) G. ‘Mavis Simpson’ 13) G. ‘Ann Folkard’ 14) G. nodosum 15) G. pratense ‘Mrs. Kendall Clark’ A few of these are RHS Award of Garden Merit recipients while others are under-rated and unsung, but all feature breathtakingly beautiful flowers. References 1. RHS plant of the centenary. (2013, April 24). The Guardian. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/gallery/2013/apr/24/rhs-plant-centenary 2. Perennial Plant Of The Year. (n.d.). Perennial Plant Association. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://perennialplant.org/page/PastPPOY 3. Hawai’i Red Cranesbill (Geranium arboreum). (n.d.). iNaturalist Canada. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://inaturalist.ca/taxa/163254-Geranium-arboreum
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Rhubarb Can Be Grown In Containers Where Space Is An Issue - Just Don't Let Pots Dry Out
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Rhubarb In Pots? Choosing Your Container Choosing Compost Potting Up Rhubarb Potted Rhubarb Care Forcing Rhubarb In Pots Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable that is well suited to container growing in the UK climate. Grown for its delicious and colourful stems, it is easy to care for and will provide a harvestable crop for many years to come. Can You Grow Rhubarb In Pots? Rhubarb is typically grown in the ground and is a staple of allotment and vegetable patches nationwide. However, if space is an issue, it can grow well in a large pot or container as long it is well watered, as pots tend to dry out more quickly, especially during the warmer months. A benefit of growing rhubarb in a container is that it can be moved to a spot where it will receive full sun during the growing season and out of sight when it is dormant. Along with if necessary, providing some protection from late frosts, which even though rhubarb is hardy, can damage the young stalks. Choosing Your Container Rhubarb is a large plant and can grow up to an eventual size of H1m x W1m producing a deep and wide root system as it matures. When choosing a container to grow rhubarb in, it needs to be at least 50cm wide and deep and preferably larger in order to accommodate the size of the plant. The material of the container is not as important as its size. Terracotta is often preferred for aesthetic reasons, although it can be prone to frost damage. Wine or whiskey half-barrels are often used for growing rhubarb due to their large size and will often last longer than the plant. Whatever container is chosen, rhubarb thrives in well-drained soil, so any pot or planter must have adequate drainage holes present for any excess water to drain away freely. Choosing Compost Rhubarb plants are hungry feeders and choosing the right compost is important to give them the nutrients they require to produce good size stems to harvest. That being said, rhubarb is relatively unfussy about where it is grown and can tolerate almost any soil, as long as it is not waterlogged which can lead to the crowns rotting. When growing rhubarb in a container, a rich soil-based compost such as John Innes no. 3 with some well-rotted manure added will help encourage a bountiful crop of stems to harvest. Potting Up Rhubarb Rhubarb can either be bought as dormant plants in the winter or when in leaf from spring onwards and can be planted on purchase either way. Dormant plants are best planted straight away, unless the soil is frozen or waterlogged and temperatures are below freezing. Actively growing plants can be planted at any time, although it is recommended to avoid planting them out during the peak of the summer, when the plants may struggle. To plant up a dormant crown, fill the chosen container with the prepared soil mix and plant the crown so that the growing tip is just below or at the desired soil level. Gently firm in the soil around the crown and water thoroughly to avoid any air pockets. To pot up an actively growing plant, the method is the same except that the plant should be planted at the same depth it previously was. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Advice on spacing between rhubarb plants when grown in the ground is generally from 70cm to 1m, as the plants can grow quite large. When grown in containers it is generally recommended that one plant per pot is enough, unless you have a large raised bed that could accommodate several plants at the spacing recommended for the variety. Potted Rhubarb Care Looking after rhubarb grown in containers is not dissimilar from when they are grown in the soil. However, the availability of moisture and nutrients may be limited and should be supplemented when grown in a pot. Rhubarb like moist but not waterlogged soil, you can help avoid crown rot by planting the crown at soil level and not mulching over the crown. Plants need to be watered regularly, especially during the summer months when the rhubarb is actively growing. As previously mentioned, rhubarb requires fertile soil to produce a good crop. As with ground-grown plants, container-grown rhubarb will benefit from an annual mulch of well-rotted manure in spring, which will help feed the plant and conserve moisture over the warmer months. Along with mulching, a general-purpose fertiliser can be applied in spring when the plant is growing to give it a boost for the growing season ahead. Forcing Rhubarb In Pots Forcing rhubarb is essentially the process of excluding any light from the plant, in order for it to produce an earlier, sweeter and softer crop of stalks. Container-grown rhubarb can be forced as if it is grown in the ground. However, once forced, the plants need a break from being harvested for the rest of the summer and even the following year. So, unless you have multiple rhubarb plants to rotate forcing between, it may not be worth it.
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