Growing
8 Trusty Types Of Dogwood, Including Garden Writer Nic Wilson's Favourites
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Kousa 2) Dogwood ‘Wietings Select’ 3) Kousa ‘Miss Satomi’ 4) Stiff Dogwood 5) Flowering Dogwood 6) Flowering Dogwood ‘Sunset’ 7) Giant Dogwood 8) Wedding Cake Tree References Cornus is quite a cosmopolitan genus. Species are native to all of North America, Europe, and nearly all of Asia except for Kazakhstan and its surrounding countries and India.1 Species also grow in regions of Eastern-Central Africa and the north-western hump of South America. All of the desirable Dogwood tree varieties are Far Eastern or American ones. “I think I’d find it hard to be cheerful in the colder months without my dogwoods,” says Nic Wilson, a Garden Writer. “Winter is the season when I need the lift that comes from seeing a blazing mass of ‘Midwinter Fire’ or the morning light shining on the vivid green ‘Flaviramea’ stems in the borders.” C. florida The total number of species in Cornus number about 50-60 (not including hybrids and cultivars) – most of them are deciduous but a few are evergreen.2 Dogwood trees are cherished in many regions of the United States and some even claim it for their own, as has Virginia: a Dogwood species, Cornus florida, is the state tree and its ‘bract flower’ is the state flower.3 Varieties of Dogwood trees differ in the colours and types of their small or insignificant flowers encircled by much more attractive and colourful bracts, the hues and edibility of their berries or drupes and by the kind of colours they may display in autumn. The simple leaves are usually ovate and opposite, and of a mid-green to dark green tone. The aim of this section is not to list the most popular or most desirable varieties, and it is certainly not meant to provide an exhaustive list. Rather, the intention is to illustrate the enormous diversity in size, form, and seasonal display of colours. By ‘flowers’ we refer to the more attractive colourful bracts. 1) Kousa Botanical Name: C. kousa Originating in China, Japan and the Koreas, is the species from which the majority of the most popular and desirable cultivars descend. It typically reaches a height of about 7m. In spring it produces a lush display of greenish-white flowers that are often pink-tipped, with light red berries following in summer. In autumn there is another lovely display of deep reds and purples. In winter this species’s patchy, somewhat scaly, tan-coloured bark comes into view. 2) Dogwood ‘Wietings Select’ Botanical Name: C. kousa var. chinensis ‘Wietings Select’ Also grows to about 7m. Its flowers are pure white, developing pink edges and tinges, and the late summer berries are a saturated tone of pink. In autumn the foliage puts on an amazing show of deep, rich reds. 3) Kousa ‘Miss Satomi’ Botanical Name: C. kousa ‘Satomi’ Grows to your choice of a small tree of 4-5m or a tall shrub. It is covered by candy pink flowers in summer. More colour follows in autumn as the (inedible) fruit and the foliage both present attractive tones of light and rich reds. RHS Award of Garden Merit. Many other Kousa cultivars are available, ranging in height from 4-8m, and producing foliage, flowers, and berries in various appealing light and dark colours. 4) Stiff Dogwood Botanical Name: C. foemina Also gives you a choice between growing it as a small tree of 6-7m or a tall shrub. Its flowers are white and relatively small and in autumn the foliage display includes deep and rich hues of wine red and purples. But the twist on this tree is that its late summer berries are blue, and a popping tone of blue at that. 5) Flowering Dogwood Botanical Name: C. florida Is the ‘main’ American species which grows to about 7m. In mid-spring it starts to produce an abundance of white or pinkish flowers, followed by vermilion or light red berries in late summer. Autumn brings a blaze of reds and purples as the foliage changes colour. This species is, unfortunately, the most susceptible to cornus anthracnose. 6) Flowering Dogwood ‘Sunset’ Botanical Name: C. florida ‘Sunset’ Grows to about 7m and ‘improves’ upon the mother species in both foliage and flowers. The leaves are wonderfully variegated, being bright green in the centre with a substantial edging of bright yellow. Late spring and early summer bring bright pink flowers, often with white flushes. The late summer and early autumn show comprise of red berries, with the foliage turning reddish-purple as the season progresses. 7) Giant Dogwood Botanical Name: C. controversa Lives up to its name – at least where Dogwoods are concerned! – reaching 15m heights. It has a wonderful tiered branching pattern that can be observed in winter when the tree is bare but admired even more when it is in flower. And those flowers are plentiful and of a very rich creamy shade. Autumn brings different colours as the berries on this tree are blue-black while the leaves display shades of purple and violet. 8) Wedding Cake Tree Botanical Name: C. controversa ‘Variegata’ A smaller version of C. controversa, topping out at about 8m. This dinky tree also has that wonderful tiered branching pattern which is most marked when in full leaf. The leaves are variegated – green in the centre with thick cream edges. The late spring to early summer flowers are white-white and the berries following them in late summer and early autumn make the strongest of contrasts with their bluish-black colour. RHS Award of Garden Merit recipient. References 1. Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/dogwood/ 2. Atkinson, B. S., Stockey, R. A., & Rothwell, G. W. (2016). Cretaceous origin of dogwoods: an anatomically preserved Cornus (Cornaceae) fruit from the Campanian of Vancouver Island. Peer J, 4, e2808. https://doi.org/10.7717/peerj.2808 3. American Dogwood. (2017, December 26). State Symbols USA. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://statesymbolsusa.org/symbol-official-item/virginia/state-flower/american-dogwood
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Tree Peonies Look Phenomenal At The Rear Of A Border: This Is How You Can Grow Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Tree Peony Vs Peony – What’s The Difference? Common Varieties How To Grow Tree Peonies Tree Peony Care References Tree peonies are not actually trees at all; they are shrubs, with pleasing foliage and dramatic blooms. These plants look lovely at the back of a border, but is this plant the right choice for you? And if so, how can it be grown successfully? Overview Botanical Name Paeonia ssp. Common Name(s) Tree peonies Plant Type Perennial Shrub Native Area China Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White, pink, red, peach, yellow blooms When To Plant September-October When To Prune February Tree peonies are members of the Paeonia genus which have woody stems and a shrubby form. The tree peonies grown in gardens are often hybrids, derived after long cultivation and through cross-breeding from wild Chinese species in the Moutan group of Paeonia.1 Tree peonies are prized for their attractive leaves and especially for their large, bowl-shaped blooms. Tree Peony Vs Peony – What’s The Difference? The difference between tree peonies and other peonies is that these are shrubs, with woody stems, rather than herbaceous perennials. They will lose their leaves in winter, but unlike other peonies, will not die back to the ground. Common Varieties When choosing a tree peony, one of the most important considerations for most gardeners will be the colour and form of the flowers. There are single, semi-double and double-blooming cultivars available which come in a huge range of different colours and shades. Some great varieties to consider include: P. delayavi var. ludlowii P. ‘Duchess of Kent’ P. ‘Duchess of Marlborough’ P. x lemoinei ‘High Noon’ P. x lemoinei ‘Souvenir de Maxime Cornu’ P. ‘Reine Elizabeth’ P. ‘Rockii’ P. ‘Shimane Sedai’ P. ‘Shimanishiki’ P. ‘Showanohokori’ P. x suffruticosa ‘Renkaku’ P. rockii How To Grow Tree Peonies Gardeners will not typically grow tree peonies from seed. Most of the tree peonies offered for sale are grafted onto herbaceous peony rootstock. You should be able to see the raised graft scar when you purchase your plant. However, should you wish to grow these plants from seed, you can do so both with species like Paeonia delavayi and with hybrids. Note, however, that hybrids grown from seed will not breed true, so may not grow up to resemble the parent plant, and they are often inferior. However, you might still see some interesting results. Growing From Seed To grow from seed: Collect seed when pods split open in late summer or autumn. Collect the black seed, which is viable. Soon after collecting the seeds, sow them 2.5cm deep in containers of seed compost. Cover the compost with a layer of grit and place them in a cold frame, or sheltered spot outside (at the base of a wall, for example). Make sure the medium does not dry out in summer and rodents cannot eat the seeds. Peony seeds are doubly dormant – roots emerge after the first winter, but stems and leaves only after the second winter. You will have to be patient as seedlings will take up to 5 years to reach flowering size. When To Plant Tree peonies should be planted in the autumn months, however, you can also plant them in winter or the early spring. Just make sure to avoid planting any later than early spring as the plants may fail to establish when the weather is too warm and dry. Where To Plant Tree peonies require a sunny position or one with light shade. It is important to avoid frost pockets since, though hardy, their developing buds can be damaged by late frosts. You should also site a tree peony in a sheltered spot where it will not be damaged by strong winds. “Walled gardens are ideal for tree peonies but any area of a garden that is protected by structures or trees and shrubs and are south-facing should work well,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Work in plenty of organic matter to heavy clays or sandy soils to improve drainage and moisture holding respectively.” Choose a position where there is neutral, free-draining yet humus-rich soil for best results. Avoid planting in soil with heavy clay that becomes waterlogged unless and until it has been amended with plenty of organic matter like homemade compost or well-rotted manure. Graft Union It is important when planting a tree peony that you have purchased to look for the graft union. You should see this as a slight bulge close to the base of the stem. In this case, the graft union should be below the soil surface. Ideally, aim to make sure that the graft union is around 15cm below ground level. This helps the grafted plant to develop roots of its own. Water the tree peony in well, then mulch around your new shrub with some organic material to conserve moisture and provide slow-release fertility. Just make sure that the mulch is not piled up around the stem as this can cause it to rot. Tree Peony Care Light Tree peonies are happy in a sunny spot as long as the soil conditions are right, and can also thrive in light shade. Temperature & Humidity These plants are H6 hardy in the UK and are able to withstand even harsh winter conditions. However, as mentioned above, they may be damaged by strong winds or late frosts. Watering Tree peonies should be watered regularly during dry spells during their first summer, but once established, their deep roots mean that they will not have high watering needs and routine watering will not be required. Deadheading Dead flowers can be removed after flowering if you do not wish to collect seed. Feeding In reasonably nutrient-rich soils, applying a good quality organic mulch and replenishing this each year in spring should be sufficient enough to meet this plant’s nutrient needs. If growth seems poor, you can also add a balanced organic fertiliser in spring. Overwintering These plants are fully hardy and will not need winter protection. They will lose their foliage, but their woody structure of branches will remain in place until the following year. Container Growing Tree peonies are relatively large and deep-rooted plants once mature, and so are not necessarily the best choice for long-term container cultivation. If you are looking for peonies to grow in pots then herbaceous types are likely to be better options. Pruning Very light maintenance pruning only is required. Remove any dead shoots in winter, cutting back to a healthy bud. Occasionally, you may wish to prune to remove flowering shoots in summer, or in the autumn after seeds (if you wish to collect them) have matured, but this is not usually required. References 1. Zhou, S., Zou, X., Zhou, Z., Liu, J., Xu, C., Yu, J., Wang, Q., Zhang, D., Wang, X., Ge, S., Sang, T., Pan, K., & Hong, D. (2014). Multiple species of wild tree peonies gave rise to the ‘king of flowers’, Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews. The Royal Society Proceeding B: Biological Sciences, 281(1797), 20141687. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2014.1687
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Citronella Plant (Pelargonium Citrosum) - Containers Are A Must For This Tender Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Citronella? Planting Ongoing Plant Care Propagation The term ‘citronella’ can be a confusing one, as there are a number of different plants which are referred to by that name. In this article, we discuss the merits and growing habits of Pelargonium cucullatum subsp. cucullatum, a lemon-scented pelargonium also commonly referred to as Pelargonium citrosum and the ‘Citronella plant’. This should not be confused with plants in the Citronella genus, nor with lemongrass, which is sometimes referred to as citronella grass. Overview Botanical Name P. cucullatum subsp. cucullatum Common Name(s) Citronella Plant; Mosquito Plant Plant Type Grass / Shrub Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Pink and purple flowers When To Plant May – August When To Prune March – May (or after flowering) P. cucullatum subsp. cucullatum, also sometimes referred to as the ‘Mosquito Plant’, is an evergreen shrub with a branching habit. It is well-known for its strong citrus scent and may produce attractive pinkish or purplish flowers sometime between spring and autumn. Citronella plants can grow to a maximum height of around 1.5m, with a spread of between 0.5-1m. It can also be kept much smaller and grown in moderately sized containers. Why Grow Citronella? Like some other pelargoniums, this is an edible plant. “Although the correct species name is P. cucullatum ssp. cucullatum, this plant will also be found sold as P. ‘Citronella’ or P. cucullatum,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist with nearly 15 years of experience. “There is also a double-flowered cultivar, P. cucculatum ‘Flore Pleno’. It will often be sold and described as a scented leaved Pelargonium with other species and cultivars.” The scented flowers and leaves can both be eaten in a number of recipes and are used to add a lemony flavour and aroma. While they may not help to keep insects out of your home, despite the rumours, keeping a citronella plant indoors could bring a pleasing scent to your living spaces. In the UK, the citronella plant cannot be grown outdoors during the winter, but can be placed outdoors in a warm, sunny spot during the summer months. Planting Where To Plant Citronella plants require a sunny spot and temperatures above 5-10°C. Over the summer, it can be grown in chalk, loam or sandy soil which is well-drained and has an alkaline or neutral pH in a suitable, sunny spot. However, since it will not be able to survive outside in the UK when temperatures fall, it is typically grown in containers. Remember that a container should be filled with a suitably free-draining growing medium, such as a peat-free multipurpose compost with added John Innes (or an equivalent soil-based potting mix), and added grit. If your citronella plant is being grown in the ground, plants should be lifted in early autumn. Alternatively, cuttings could be taken in order to have new plants placed the following year. These plants might also be grown indoors all year round as houseplants. Remember that these plants like a sunny location, so it is important to make sure when growing indoors, that you place them in as light and bright a spot as possible. Ideally, these plants should get at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Alternatively, they can thrive in a sunny greenhouse that remains reliably frost-free in winter. When growing indoors or under cover, ensuring adequate ventilation is also important, as these plants require good airflow. This might involve opening windows or vents in summer and also might mean avoiding crowding too many potted plants on a windowsill or greenhouse staging. How To Plant Citronella plants can be purchased online or from a number of plant nurseries. They are typically purchased as plug plants, or as pot-grown specimens. They can be planted out in late spring or summer after the last frosts in your area in a suitable spot in your garden, or potted up into suitable containers and placed either outdoors in a suitable location, greenhouse, or on a sunny windowsill. Spring is the best time to plant houseplants, to ensure the best establishment. However, you can pot up citronella plants to use as houseplants throughout the year. Ongoing Plant Care Watering Remember that citronella likes free-draining conditions, so it is important to make sure that you do not overwater, and that water can drain freely from the container or through the garden soil in which it is grown. However, you will need to moderately water your plant when growing indoors or under cover and should not let the growing medium dry out entirely. Remember that your plants will require more water in the summer, though they still won’t need a huge amount. Over the winter months, you should water only very sparingly, and make sure that the potting medium has time to dry each time you water. Outdoors, natural rainfall will usually be sufficient. The plants are fairly drought tolerant and in the UK, excess rainfall rather than too little rainfall is likely to be more of an issue. Feeding Pelargoniums will respond rather well to feeding, so it is a good idea to provide plants in pots with a balanced, organic liquid feed every fortnight through spring. Then, once the flowers begin to appear, you should switch to a potassium-rich feed, such as comfrey tea or another organic feed, and water with this every couple of weeks throughout the rest of the summer. Over autumn and winter, reduce feeding to around once a month. Pruning Flowers can be deadheaded to promote flowering and the plant can also be given a light trim if required to keep their shape and size in check. Plants grown outdoors can also be cut back hard in autumn to make it easier to overwinter them indoors. If you are growing indoors year-round keeping your plants constantly in active growth, it can be a good idea to prune back hard in spring ready for the growth of the new season. Pests & Problems Unfortunately, these plants can be susceptible to a range of common problems, especially when grown indoors or under cover. Aphids, whiteflies, vine weevils, caterpillars, glasshouse leafhoppers and mealybugs can all become an issue. Check over your plants regularly and consider organic solutions for pest management such as organic pesticides like soap sprays when growing indoors. Outdoors, encourage natural predation and achieve pest control by creating a wildlife-friendly garden where the ecosystem is in balance. Fortunately, the citronella plant is not commonly affected by diseases. Propagation Citronella plants can be propagated relatively easily by means of softwood cuttings, taken any time between spring and autumn. Take non-flowering shoots as these will root more easily. Often, cuttings are taken in spring or early summer and potted up by midsummer when they should have developed reasonably strong root systems. Later cuttings should only be potted up into their own individual pots the following spring. As tender plants, Citronellas are not necessarily low-maintenance plants, but for their lemony scent and their flowers, it may be well worthwhile making the effort to grow these plants.
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Grow Deciduous Japanese Meadowsweet For Interest Throughout Much Of The Year
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Spiraea japonica? Varieties Where To Grow Planting Ongoing Plant Care Propagation Companion Planting References A great choice for mixed borders in many gardens, Spiraea japonicas are attractive deciduous shrubs which provide interest throughout much of the year. These shrubs are hardy plants which can thrive in many gardens. In the UK and elsewhere, S. japonica has been cultivated widely as an ornamental garden plant. Numerous named cultivars have been produced which are in widespread use in beds and borders, or in mixed hedgerows. Overview Botanical Name Spiraea japonica Common Name(s) Japanese spiraea Plant Type Shrub Native Area Japan, China and Korea Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Bowl-shaped, white and pink When To Plant All year round When To Prune February-April Spiraea japonica, also known as Japanese meadowsweet or Japanese Spiraea, is in the Rosaceae plant family, one of a number of deciduous shrubs within the Spiraea genus.1 It is native to Japan, China and Korea and has naturalised elsewhere.2 Why Grow Spiraea japonica? S. japonica is a popular garden shrub in large part due to its attractive little five-petalled, white or pink flowers born in abundance on the plants in short racemes, panicles or corymbs in summer. Some varieties are also prized for their colour-changing foliage, which can open one hue, mature to green in summer, then develop attractive autumnal shades later in the year. Another reason why this is a popular garden shrub is that it is very easy to grow is that it thrives in many situations in the UK and can cope with all but the most extreme of conditions. S. japonica can fit well into cottage gardens and formal garden designs, urban gardens, coastal gardens, and a range of beds and borders in settings across the UK. Varieties ‘Albiflora’ Some named cultivars UK gardens should consider include: ‘Albiflora’ ‘Anthony Waterer’ ‘Candlelight’ ‘Dart’s Red’ ‘Firelight’ ‘Golden Princess’ ‘Goldflame’ ‘Gold Mound’ ‘Island’ ‘Magic Carpet’ ‘Nana’ ‘Shirobana’ ‘Goldflame’ Where To Grow S. japonica thrives in full sun or partial or dappled shade. It is H6 hardy in the UK and can be placed in both sheltered and exposed positions. In terms of soil, it will do best in chalky, loamy or sandy soil, with moist but well-drained conditions. The plant can tolerate a wide range of soil pH, including more alkaline conditions. Where the soil is moist but does not become boggy or waterlogged, S. japonica will work very well in mixed borders. There are larger cultivars which work well for the back of a border, and also somewhat smaller cultivars which can work well in the middle of a mixed border, and dwarf S. japonica which can work well further forwards or even, in some instances, in containers. Some S. japonica can also work well as part of a hedgerow scheme. Planting S. japonicas are hardy shrubs which are best planted in autumn, or during milder spells of weather over the winter months or early spring. However, you can plant a S. japonica at any time of the year as long as you make sure that the plants are well-watered during establishment. As with many other shrubs, make sure you plant at the same depth as it was in the pot it came in, or in its previous location. Gently firm in the soil around the base of the plant, and water it in well. Mulch around the base of your new shrub with a good quality organic compost or wood chip mulch. Ongoing Plant Care Once established, as mentioned above, S. japonica is an excellent low-maintenance, easy-to-care-for plant. Watering Water the plant regularly during dry spells as it becomes established. Once established, however, these shrubs should not need additional watering, except when rainfall is in particularly short supply and there is a long period of drought. Feeding S. japonica will not generally require regular feeding. However, it is a good idea to apply a new mulch of organic matter after pruning to boost new growth. Pests & Problems These shrubs are generally relatively untroubled by common pests and diseases. Pruning S. japonica blooms in summer on growth produced in the same year. For these types of summer flowering Spiraea, it is a good idea to cut back all growth in March to around 30cm from the ground. This encourages plenty of young growth which is more vivid in hue than older shoots and so is a good idea, in particular, for S. japonica which is grown not only for its flowers but also for its colourful foliage. It is important to at least cut back to within 1-2 buds of the older woody structure of the shrub, and to remove any dead, damaged or weak material. “There are a few pruning approaches you can take with these Spiraeas,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “One method I advocate is cutting back to two buds of the current year’s growth unless you need to reduce the size, as allowing this gentle creep in size seems to aid the longevity of the plant.” If you have an older, mature S. japonica which has not been regularly pruned in this way, renovation pruning can improve performance and visual appeal significantly. Take out a proportion of the older stems to open up the centre of the plant and encourage fresh new growth. Avoid pruning these shrubs over the winter months, as this can lead to new shoots becoming damaged by frosts. Propagation Once you have a S. japonica shrub in your garden, it can quite easily be propagated by taking cuttings to obtain new plants. The best option is to take semi-ripe cuttings of non-flowering shoots from the plant in around July or August. The cuttings should be around 15cm long. Place the cuttings, with rooting hormone to improve the chances of success, in a light, sandy potting mix and place in a cold frame or another suitable spot before planting out your new S. japonica the following year. Combine S. japonica with other relatively low-maintenance shrubs and perennials in a mixed border and you can create a winning, low-effort, high-impact garden design. Remember, this is a non-native plant so consider combining it with native species which will be complementary, while providing more benefits for the local wildlife. Companion Planting S. japonica can work well in planting schemes with a range of other plants. One option to consider is growing S. japonica within a Japanese-inspired garden. You might grow it with other Japanese species including acers, conifers, and flowering cherry trees, for example. Some other examples of plants which may work well in a mixed border with Spiraea include (but certainly are not limited to): Other spiraea (E.g. S. douglasii, S. prunifolia) Loropetalum Roses Ribes sanguineum Ceanothus Fothergilla Salvias Achillea millefolium Ornamental grasses Heuchera References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998l, July 20). Spirea. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/spirea 2. Spiraea japonica. (n.d.). Weed of the Week. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.invasive.org/weedcd/pdfs/wow/japanese-spiraea.pdf
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27 Helianthemum 'Rock Rose' Varieties Including Endangered Ones At Risk Of Extinction
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. apenninum 2) H. nummularium 3) H. ‘David’ 4) H. ‘The Bride’ 5) H. ‘Wisley Primrose’ 6) H. ‘Jubilee’ 7) H. ‘Ben Attow’ 8) H. ‘Praecox’ 9) H. ‘Marianne’ 10) H. ‘Orchard’s Medius Pink’ 11) H. ‘Rose Queen’ 12) H. ‘Rhodanthe Carneum’ 13) H. ‘Ben Lomond’ 14) H. ‘Georgeham’ 15) H. ‘Highdown Apricot’ 16) H. ‘Honeymoon’ 17) H. ‘Orchard’s Dwarf Orange’ 18) H. ‘Henfield Brilliant’ 19) H. ‘Ben Heckla’ 20) H. ‘Alice Howorth’ 21) H. ‘Orchard’s Griseo’ 22) H. ‘Dompfaff’ 23) H. ‘Orchard’s Pastel’ 24) H. ‘Cerise Queen’ 25) H. ‘Orchard’s Royale’ 26) H. ‘Fire Dragon’ 27) H. ‘Beech Park Red’ Endangered Varieties References Helianthemum has undergone significant floriculture in England with the result that a few double flowers have also been developed. One can choose from a total of 200-plus cultivars in a wide range of hues and tones spanning the entire warm spectrum plus white.1 Here are some of my favourite varieties to grow for beautiful low-growing shrubs: 1) H. apenninum Has linear to lanceolate leaves and produces snow-white flowers with a yellow central disk and stamens to match. This species can reach a height of 50cm. 2) H. nummularium The species from which the vast majority of cultivars have been developed. It attains a height of 30-40cm. It has oval leaves and bright yellow flowers with prominent orange stamens. The following selected cultivars typically bloom from late spring to the middle of summer: 3) H. ‘David’ Has lanceolate leaves and a pure white flower with sizeable central disks and visible buttery stamens. 4) H. ‘The Bride’ Has foliage that is distinctly silvery-green with a frosted appearance while the flowers are white or off-white with yellow eyes. This variety is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 5) H. ‘Wisley Primrose’ Has greyish-green lanceolate leaves and produces classic primrose yellow flowers with darker, buttery yellow centres. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 6) H. ‘Jubilee’ One of the few varieties to produce double flowers; these are of a primrose yellow hue. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 7) H. ‘Ben Attow’ This variety has dark green lanceolate leaves and produces lemon-yellow flowers with prominent matching stamens. 8) H. ‘Praecox’ has chalky-green lanceolate leaves and bears flowers that are fully yellow of a bright, sunny hue. 9) H. ‘Marianne’ has greyish-green pinnate leaves and bears whitish flowers that have a faint pink tinge or pink flush set off by bright yellow stamens. 10) H. ‘Orchard’s Medius Pink’ Has appealing light green leaves and bears baby pink flowers with sizeable central disks in orange which are further centred by bright yellow stamens. 11) H. ‘Rose Queen’ Has elliptic leaves of a greyish-green hue and bears soft pink flowers with golden eyes and prominent stamens. 12) H. ‘Rhodanthe Carneum’ Has silvery-grey elliptic leaves and bears soft pink flowers with yellow centres further accented by yellow stamens. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 13) H. ‘Ben Lomond’ Has dark green elliptic leaves and produces flowers of a classic baby pink hue that have prominent golden stamens. 14) H. ‘Georgeham’ Has greyish-green lanceolate leaves and bears bright pink flowers with a creamy pink disk further centred by prominent yellow stamens. 15) H. ‘Highdown Apricot’ Has greyish-green leaves with flowers of an unusual pastel apricot-pink hue with bright yellow central disks and visible yellow stamens. 16) H. ‘Honeymoon’ Has bright green elliptic leaves and produces peach to light orange flowers with prominent yellow stamens. 17) H. ‘Orchard’s Dwarf Orange’ Has light green elliptic leaves and bears flowers of a rich amber-orange with prominent yellow stamens. 18) H. ‘Henfield Brilliant’ Has lanceolate leaves of a frosted greyish-green hue and produces poppy orange flowers with visible yellow stamens. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 19) H. ‘Ben Heckla’ ‘Ben Heckla’ Has grey-green ovate leaves and bears rich orange flowers with large vermilion central disks with just-visible yellow stamens. 20) H. ‘Alice Howorth’ Has mid-green pinnate leaves and bears flowers that are of a chalky coral tone and red at the centres with prominent yellow stamens. 21) H. ‘Orchard’s Griseo’ Has bright green pinnate leaves and bears coral-pink flowers with very prominent buttery yellow stamens. 22) H. ‘Dompfaff’ Has dark green pinnate leaves and produces flowers of a chalky lipstick-red hue which are darker at the centres and have prominent yellow stamens. 23) H. ‘Orchard’s Pastel’ Has cool green lanceolate leaves and produces rose-red flowers with prominent yellow stamens. 24) H. ‘Cerise Queen’ One of the few varieties to produce double flowers; these are of a saturated pinkish-red or lipstick-red hue. 25) H. ‘Orchard’s Royale’ Has silvery-green lanceolate leaves and bears fuschia to magenta-toned flowers with bright yellow stamens. 26) H. ‘Fire Dragon’ Has bright green lanceolate leaves and bears scarlet flowers with a deeper red centre and visible yellow stamens. RHS Award of Garden Merit. 27) H. ‘Beech Park Red’ Has elliptic dark green leaves and produces bright red flowers with visible yellow stamens. Endangered Varieties The desirable varieties of Helianthemum are cultivated and grown in an increasing number of countries and are rising in popularity; indeed, eight of these little flowering shrubs have even been awarded the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. “Many species with wild distributions will need the skills of gardeners to avoid extinction,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Cultivated plants also face the threat of extinction as some cultivars fall out of fashion and are no longer grown.” But the realities could not be more different and more grim for the less well-known species – would you believe that some are on the road to extinction? H. songaricum & H. ordosicum Native to hilly regions of Southwestern China. Human settlements in their habitats and resultant habitat-altering activities, such as agriculture and grazing, have severely fragmented these species’ populations which have been declining for several years. This led to both species being categorised as ‘Endangered’ in the China Species Red List. H. marifolium & H. caput-felis These grow in the islands, cliffs, and coastal regions of the Western Mediterranean region. Their habitats have been disturbed and even taken over by tourist resorts and urban sprawl. H. marifolium is termed ‘Vulnerable’ and H. caput-felis ‘Rare’ and both are categorised as ‘Endangered’. Each species has been accorded a protected status under the respective country or region’s laws. No matter which varieties you choose to grow – the endangered ones or the AGM ones – these mat-forming evergreens that bear exceedingly pretty flowers over a long blooming season are truly no-care no-fuss plants that will bring their own unique charms to your garden. References 1. Roberts, A. (n.d.). Collection: Helianthemums . Helianthemums.co.uk. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.helianthemums.co.uk/collection/
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14 Brilliantly Yellow Forsythia Varieties Including Multiple RHS Award Winners
IN THIS GUIDE 1) F. x intermedia ‘Meadowlark’ 2) F. x intermedia Week End ‘Courtalyn’ 3) F. x intermedia ‘Lynwood Variety’ 4) F. ‘Courtasol’ 5) F. x intermedia ‘Kolgold’ 6) F. x intermedia ‘Goldrausch’ 7) F. koreana 8) F. ovata ‘Tetragold’ 9) F. ‘Fiesta’ 10) F. ‘Show Off Starlet’ 11) F. suspensa ‘Nymans’ 12) F. europaea 13) F. x intermedia ‘Spectabilis’ 14) Abeliophyllum distichum Variety Origins References Forsythia has quite an interesting distribution. It has eleven species of which ten are native to Southern and Eastern China, Japan, and the Koreas, and only one is native to Europe, specifically Albania and the Carpathians.1 In China they are found growing wild along streams. Underneath we evaluate fourteen Forsythia varieties – then offer some background on the origins of each. 1) F. x intermedia ‘Meadowlark’ An American cultivar. Its deep-yellow flowers fall away earlier than many other species but the buds are hardy down to near-freezing. It is even more pest- and disease-resistant than other Forsythia varieties, and that’s saying something. It reaches a height just shy of 3m and has about the same spread. 2) F. x intermedia Week End ‘Courtalyn’ A popular and widely-available variety. The branches are stiffly erect; reaching a height of right around 2m and a similar spread, it’s a perfect medium-sized shrub. It has lance-shaped leaves on its slender, erect branches and in spring, each branch is covered with beautiful bright golden blooms that are each around 3cm across. It blooms profusely through spring. 3) F. x intermedia ‘Lynwood Variety’ “F. x intermedia ‘Lynwood Variety’ is the cultivar that I most often plant and its reliability and large flowers are reflected in its AGM status,” says Colin Skelly, Horticulturist Consultant. “I typically use these at the back of mixed borders, but some of the smaller cultivars present the opportunity to use them in new ways. It’s always a school day in the garden!” This variety of forsythia is also a moderately large shrub, growing up to 2.5m in height and width. Another popular and widely-available variety. Its branches too are stiffly upright. It reaches a height of 2-3m while the flowers are closer to 4cm. It is a profuse bloomer and is recognised for its vigour with the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. 4) F. ‘Courtasol’ A smaller variety, reaching only 1m in height with a spread up to 1.5m. The smallish flowers are a pale bright hue of yellow. It is a profuse bloomer and is noted for being one of the first Forsythia varieties to start blooming, sometimes even from late winter. It too is a recipient of the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. 5) F. x intermedia ‘Kolgold’ Another small variety, reaching about 1.5m both in height and spread, seldom reaching 2m. This relatively new cultivar is a profuse bloomer, producing flowers 2.5-3cm across. This variety stands out for the deep golden-yellow hue of its flowers. 6) F. x intermedia ‘Goldrausch’ A smallish variety with a height and spread between 1-2m. Its habit is distinctly fountain-like, so to speak. This German cultivar is notable for its characteristics of producing blooms on old wood, flowering a little later than most other varieties, and also keeping its flowers a little longer. It is one of the most reliable and trouble-free varieties. 7) F. koreana A forsythia with upright shoots that grows to around 2m tall, this option can be semi-evergreen and will frequently retain its leaves through winter after the second year. As indicated by its name, this is a native of Korea. Its large flowers are a vivid yellow-golden shade but on this species, the foliage is just as showy. The leaves are darker than other varieties and are serrated. Furthermore, they display a striking white ‘latticework’ on their surfaces and they turn purple in early autumn! 8) F. ovata ‘Tetragold’ A cultivar from the Korean species of Forsythia that grows relatively fast but is a small size, topping out at 1.5m in both height and width – and sometimes less. It has a dense, bushy habit and produces large flowers of a golden-yellow hue. It is one of the earliest varieties to bloom and its buds are also hardier than other varieties. 9) F. ‘Fiesta’ One of the more spectacular varieties as the foliage nearly steals the show from Forsythia’s celebrated yellow bells. Another small variety that also reaches a maximum height and width of 1.5m, it has a bushy, mounded shape. As a smaller and more compact cultivar, it also lends itself to container growing. The flowers are a deep yellow colour. The leaves have cream and yellow blotches usually at the centres but sometimes at the edges. 10) F. ‘Show Off Starlet’ This variety barely reaches 1m in height and spread. In fact, it is a dwarf variety that is dense and bushy. It is a relatively recent American cultivar. The flowers are of a bright yellow hue but it’s their awesome profusion that makes this variety a ‘starlet’ as branches can and do get covered with blooms from end to end. 11) F. suspensa ‘Nymans’ Also a ‘show-off’ but for entirely different reasons. Large and spreading, this deciduous shrub grows to around 3m in height and width, sometimes even as much as 4m. Usually 3m and not infrequently 4m tall with a similar width, it’s definitely one of the larger shrubs on this list. The flowers too are of a stunning size of 4.5cm. While the foliage is dark, the flowers are unusually gentle in both hue and ‘habit’: they are a soft, pale yellow, and are nodding and pendant. This variety blooms after virtually all other varieties. 12) F. europaea One the last species on our list, is also the last Forsythia to start blooming, has a relatively unkempt habit, is probably the least profuse, and certainly has the least showy blooms. As one may expect, it is not very popular. Yet it deserves a mention because it is anamolous in every way, including being unique as the only Forsythia species to be native to Europe. Also, it is becoming quite rare. 13) F. x intermedia ‘Spectabilis’ A dramatic shrub that can grow up to 3m tall and 2m wide, this forsythia has elongated, toothed leaves which occasionally have 3 lobes. In early to mid-spring it bears a profusion of beautiful golden yellow flowers 2-3cm across. No wonder, then, that this is one of the most popular early-spring flowering shrubs here in the UK. 14) Abeliophyllum distichum While all forsythias are yellow-flowered, it is worth mentioning this deciduous shrub, which is related to the forsythia and resembles it in a number of ways – except in its flowers which, rather than being yellow, are pale pink to pure white. These flowers open in late winter or early spring – even earlier than the flowers of true forsythias. Grow in full sun in well-drained soil, in a sheltered position. Variety Origins Forsythia have been cultivated in Chinese gardens for centuries; equally, they are a frequent and important element in Japanese Gardens. F. suspensa was introduced from Japan to Great Britain in the 1850s by way of the Netherlands.2 F. suspensa is also called the ‘Weeping Forsythia’ because of the tendency of its branches and boughs to bow and droop, and sough in the wind. In fact, they are used in European gardens for this very feature where they are trained to ‘weep’ over a boundary wall or a trellis. The origin of most cultivars is F. x intermedia. This is a hybrid that was the result of combining the above-mentioned two species over a century ago. It bears flowers of a rich yellow hue and bears them more profusely than either of the parent species. This hybrid has an upright habit but with gracefully arching branches. References 1. Forsythia viridissima. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:608903-1 2. Johnson, O. (2022). Forsythia suspensa. Trees and Shrubs Online. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://treesandshrubsonline.org/articles/forsythia/forsythia-suspensa/
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English Lavender Growers Share Their Secrets - 'The Most Important Factor Is Positioning'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Varieties Planting Lavender English Lavender Care References English Lavender is a true stalwart of gardens here in the United Kingdom – and for good reason. With its wonderful fragrance, beautiful purple-blue flowers and ability to draw in pollinators galore, it is a great plant for any garden. Given the right conditions and some simple care, it is easy to grow and will last for years. “When I first started gardening, I loved lavender because it is an easy plant to grow in a window box and gives you a lot for your money,” shares Isabelle Palmer. We teamed up with four British lavender growers to help complement our growing advice: Nick & Lyndsay Butler – Owners of The Lavender Fields. Patrick Fairweather – MD of Fairweather’s Nursery. Julia Snowball – Head Gardener at Yorkshire Lavender. Charlie Byrd – Owner of Cotswold Lavender. “Lavender is such a beautiful plant that flowers for a long period, providing not only colour but also aroma and texture to a garden and the countryside,” says Nick. Overview Botanical Name Lavandula angustifolia Common Name(s) English Lavender / Common Lavender Plant Type Shrub Native Area Mediterranean Europe Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Purple or blue flowers When To Plant April – May Harvesting Months July – August When To Prune March – May or September – November English Lavender, or Lavandula angustifolia as it is botanically named, is part of the Lamiaceae family and not a herb as it is often thought of, but a shrub.1 “Lavender is a very special shrub with a long history of cultivation in this country,” says Julia. “It’s a plant which benefits us all with its calming scent and culinary properties, and it is a fantastic plant for the environment as the bees love it!” Rather confusingly, English lavender is not actually native to the UK but originates from the warmer Mediterranean.2 It does, however, cope rather well with our climate, especially in the south of the country. “Our soil is very stony so it was important to find a crop that suited our soil type,” says Charlie, when discussing why he started growing lavender on his farm. “Our farm is nearly 1,000 feet above sea level, which makes quite a difference to our climate. On average we are 2-3°C cooler than nearby towns because of the altitude. “Lavender has really thrived here and has been an interesting crop to grow.” A hardy and drought-tolerant shrub, it can tolerate temperatures down to -10to -15°C, unless grown in heavy soil prone to water-logging. Varieties The most well-known varieties of English lavender are L. angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ and L. angustifolia ‘Munsted’. Both widely grown in the UK, they are hardier than the English hybrids such as L. × intermedia and their French and Spanish counterparts L. stoechas – thus a more reliable choice for growing here, especially in the north of the country. Both ‘Munsted’ and ‘Hidcote’ are relatively compact varieties growing to an eventual height of roughly 50cm. The main difference between the two is that the slightly larger ‘Hidcote’ produces a darker purple flower compared to ‘Munsted’, which is lighter in colour and less compact. Other English lavender varieties are available and can include those which produce pink and even white flowers in summer. Planting Lavender Where To Plant “The most important care factor is positioning,” say the Butlers. “Lavender likes to be in full sun and will not thrive in the shade.” English lavender grows well when planted directly into the ground or in a pot or container, and thrives in sunlight, so a south or west-facing spot is ideal. Lavenders in general are rather fussy when it comes to the soil though. “Wet feet kill lavender quicker than anything, so good drainage is essential,” explains Charlie. “Soils here at the farm drain naturally, which is one of the reasons we chose to grow lavender. On clay soils, it is important to mix sand or grit into the soil to create an open soil structure.” With this in mind, they require a free-draining mix that is not too acidic and will seriously struggle to make it through the year if planted in soil with poor drainage. When preparing a site to plant English lavender, gravel or horticultural grit can be added to the bottom of the hole and potting mix to increase drainage levels, mimicking its Mediterranean origins as far as possible. In really wet areas, planting on a small mound or ridge can prove beneficial as well. How To Plant English lavenders are readily available during the spring and are most commonly sold in 1-3L pot sizes, ready to plant out. However, smaller lavender plug plants have become more widespread and are a cheaper way of buying larger quantities of plants, yet will need to be grown on first before planting out. English lavender can grow up to 0.5m in height with a 1m spread, so need to be spaced accordingly when planting out. English lavender can be a great plant for an informal low hedge in the garden. If planting for a hedge, it is advisable to space the plants 30-45cm apart depending on the variety. To give new plants the best chance of establishing, it is strongly recommended to plant them out in spring when the soil is warming up and they have the summer months to settle in and grow before the winter arrives. When planting, plant at the same depth as they were previously in their pots. “Once planted in the ground, lavender will need watering for the first few weeks,” explain the Butlers. “Once the roots have taken, you should not need to water the plant, even during the dry season.” English Lavender Care If the aspect and soil conditions are right for lavender, then they need little ongoing care. “Lavender is a Mediterranean plant, so try to give it conditions as close as possible to its natural home,” explains Julia. “The plants prefer a sunny location with well-drained, poor, sandy soil and they do not like to be overwatered.” Watering & Feeding Once established, lavender will need little watering, unless when grown in a pot or container, which will dry out more quickly. Lavender doesn’t tend to be a hungry plant as they like nutrient-poor soil, so feeding isn’t usually required, as Charlie shares: “It’s important not to overfeed lavender. “Don’t let them grow too big too quickly, as they will not be strong enough to support themselves when their foliage gets wet in the summer.” Overwintering Plants in containers or pots are more susceptible to hard frost due to their lack of insulation. Therefore, it is advisable to provide a bit of protection to any containerised plants if severe weather is forecast. Pots can either be brought in to overwinter under a porch or in an unheated greenhouse, which will not only provide some protection from low temperatures but the cold rains as well. Pruning English lavender tends to only need an annual prune, which can either be done in spring or autumn. However, if pruned in the autumn, they can look a bit neater over the winter months. “Pruning is ideally done at the end of the summer after the plant has finished flowering and before the cold weather sets in,” say the Butlers. Once flowered, the flower stalks and about 3cm of green growth can be taken off. “In early September as soon as flowering has finished, I use a sharp pair of shears or, in the case of extensive low hedging, a sharp hedge trimmer, to cut back the lavender as described,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “The plant then has time over the autumn to grow fresh foliage which looks good and protects it over winter.” Lavenders do not easily regrow from old wood, so some green growth must be left on for the plants to regrow well. Lavender plants tend to live for an average of 10-15 years, although some may live considerably longer. Over time, the plants can become leggy, especially if not pruned correctly, but thankfully, lavender is easy to propagate from cuttings, so replacements are not difficult to provide. Common Pests & Diseases English lavender tends to be fairly problem-free if given the right conditions. That being said, they can be rather susceptible to the rosemary beetle, which is unfortunately now widespread here in the UK.3 The rosemary beetle and their larvae feed on the foliage of rosemary plants, but also on thyme and lavender. The shiny green and purple beetles are easy to spot on the leaves, which they can reduce in length to virtually nothing. Yet the damage done is often small in comparison to the size of the plant and is of little aesthetic or health consequence. For this reason, is it encouraged to tolerate small numbers and pick them off by hand if necessary. However, pesticides are available if needs must, but can prove more effective when applied to the larvae rather than the adult beetles. References 1. Lavandula angustifolia. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=281393&isprofile=1&gen=Lavandula 2. Lavandula angustifolia (English lavender). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/lavandula/angustifolia/ 3. Rosemary beetle. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/invertebrates/beetles/rosemary-beetle
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Propagating Buddleja: Grow New Plants From Either Softwood Or Hardwood Cuttings
IN THIS GUIDE When To Propagate 1) Prepare The Plant & Tools 2) Take The Cutting 3) Plant The Cutting 4) Cuttings Care 5) Change The Regimen 6) Pot On Or Transplant Outdoors Buddleja is among the most floriferous plants you can find, producing oodles of those tiny flowers in dense spires and thick panicles which attract butterflies by the score. Another great thing about buddlejas is that they are among the easiest plants to grow from cuttings. It must be said though, that while the vast majority of species and cultivars are easy to grow from cuttings, a few are not quite as easy. You can rely on Buddleja davidii and its cultivars – the most common and popular ones – to reward your efforts. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, pruning shears When To Take Cuttings July and August You can grow buddleja from cuttings by following the steps outlined below. When To Propagate April through May is the best time to propagate buddleja from softwood cuttings, while during July and August propagation should be done from semi-hardwood cuttings. However, virtually all buddleja varieties can be propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings while only some can be propagated from softwood cuttings. Therefore, our focus is on the former method. Whichever method you choose, buddlejas are not only floriferous, but they are also long-blooming, flowering from summer into autumn. 1) Prepare The Plant & Tools Before you begin, disinfect your secateurs’ blades with diluted rubbing alcohol or diluted bleach, or even with hand sanitiser. Start by generously watering the donor plant early in the morning on a bright, clear day in July or August. Take a small pot that has drainage holes and fill it with 50% perlite, grit and sand, and 50% peat-free cuttings compost. Water it all through. 2) Take The Cutting Locate a branch from the current year’s growth with a stem that is green and turning greyish or brownish along its lower part and is at least 15cm long. Using secateurs, cut off this branch as if pruning it. Trim this cutting from the bottom so that it is about 12cm long. What’s important is to cut it just below a node as that is where roots will emerge from. Trim off the leaves starting from the base and leave behind the top 3 leaves. “Another technique to try is hardwood cuttings, which can be taken when you would normally prune the plant, around February or March,” explains Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Lecturer and Gardening Technician. “Taking a section of straight stem that is 30cm in length, trim it so there is a bud or node at the bottom of the cutting and one at the top. “Discard any leaves that are clinging on and insert it between half and two-thirds deep in a tall pot of compost or moist, but free-draining soil. “You could add sand if extra drainage is important and cuttings should root within 2-3 months and can be transplanted in the autumn. “ 3) Plant The Cutting Though buddleja cuttings root very readily, it won’t hurt if you dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone powder or in cinnamon powder and honey. Use a pencil or dibbler to make a hole in the planting medium in the pot, and insert the cutting to one-third of its length into the hole. Gently firm up the medium all around the cutting so that it is well-supported and stable. Water it so that the soil is wet all through. 4) Cuttings Care Place the pot near a window or in a shaded spot outdoors. As a general rule, cuttings should get several hours of indirect or filtered sunlight but not any direct sunlight, however, such niceties are not strictly necessary for buddleja cuttings. If indirect or filtered sunlight would be a hassle, then direct morning sunlight will be fine. Push 3 canes around the edges of the pot, then put a polythene bag with a few tiny holes over the pot and tie or tape it to the outer edge of the pot. This will simulate the humid conditions needed for the cutting to germinate. Water every morning so that the medium stays damp. Also, remove the polythene bag on alternate days for 20-30 minutes. The cutting may start to bend, but as long as it has not shrivelled, there is no reason to worry. 5) Change The Regimen After about 4 weeks, the cutting will have developed roots, but do not make any changes until you see foliage forming on the cutting. When you see tiny leaves emerging, it’s time to make a few changes. At this point, take off the plastic bag. Slowly decrease the frequency of watering and then gradually decrease the amount of water. At the same time, start giving the new little plant a little direct sunlight and keep increasing its exposure to sunlight but, again, buddlejas don’t really need much TLC in this area. You could just shift the pot directly to a location in partial shade. 6) Pot On Or Transplant Outdoors After about 6 weeks, the plant should be potted on into a suitably sized pot or be transplanted into the garden. Be aware that buddlejas grow dramatically in size, so if you pot on, choose a pot that the plant won’t quickly outgrow. Equally, it may sit too wet in a pot more than double the size of what it has come from.
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Remove Faded And Withered Buddleja Panicles - It's The Secret To More Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Pinch Off Selected Flowers 2) Deadhead Entire Panicles 3) Cut Back In Summer Buddleja is among the most rewarding flowering bushes you can grow. The foliage is a deep green and the leaves have a crisp, starched look. As for the tiny flowers, they are borne in marvellous abundance on panicles and spikes that are sometimes weighed down by the sheer profusion of their flowers! These little flowers’ hues fall in the pink-purple spectrum with some whites and yellows. The little floral clusters put on a thrilling colour show from early summer and carry on into early autumn, drawing troupes of fluttering butterflies in the process. But there’s a little secret to promoting that floral colour show: deadheading. If you cut off withered flowers, the plant channels its resources toward fresh floral growth rather than seeds in its spent blooms. Deadheading is one of the easier gardening tasks but you need to know just what to do, and when. This process is explained in detail for you below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, pruning shears, bypass loppers, secateurs When To Deadhead June-August 1) Pinch Off Selected Flowers Through the summer, buddleja flowers will bud, bloom, fade, and wither. When you see faded or withered flowers, pinch, rub or pluck them off. You will notice that usually a small cluster of tiny flowers near the base of the panicle or spike fade and wither at about the same time. This makes it easier to remove all the faded and withered little blooms in one go, as Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish explains: “Removing this cluster means the tip of the panicle looks more decorative, as will smaller clusters of flowers either side of the main panicle.” 2) Deadhead Entire Panicles As the season progresses, the panicles and spikes that you have previously cleaned up will have fewer and fewer little flowers, of which some have now faded and withered. You may also see a panicle or spike on which many or most of the blooms are gone. In either case, there is little to be gained by removing small clusters of flowers. When you see the types of fading, withering panicles described above, it is time to deadhead. Follow the stem down from the panicle to the uppermost leaves. About 1cm above these leaves, cut off the stem with pruning shears or secateurs. 3) Cut Back In Summer Mature plants can be cut back in mid-season to stimulate fresh growth and the second round of blooms, especially if you have not progressively deadheaded. “It should be noted that this will not always allow for more flowers, especially if autumn falls early,” shares Peter. Smack dab in the middle of summer, after the plant has produced that colour show, you can do a summer cutback. “Panicles of flowers on buddlejas often come in threes,” explains Peter. “The middle one flowers first, then the two side panicles. “Cutting out first the middle panicle, when it finishes, then the two side panicles to just below their base can encourage further, smaller panicles to follow, giving each one in the sequence the space it needs.” Using pruning shears, prune shoots and young branches. Using bypass loppers, cut back larger branches by 30-50% of their lengths. Do not disturb the main stem and water the plant well after the cutback.
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