Growing
Cutting Back Heavenly Bamboo - Start With Any Canes That Look Relatively Bare
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Nandina How To Prune Nandina For An Open & Airy Look For A Compact & Dense Form For A Natural Appearance Also known as heavenly bamboo, Nandina domestica provides all-season charms that include wonderfully shaded and tinted foliage, a summer display of small flowers in panicles, with autumn bringing further colour in the form of fiery leaves. Often to benefit from these charms, you might have to prune your heavenly bamboo shrubs, but heavenly bamboo plants naturally have a neat, tidy habit and do not require much pruning. Most varieties sold in the UK are dwarf varieties and compact varieties which are slow growing. Difficulty Easy – Hard (depends on type of pruning) Equipment Required Secateurs, pruning shears, gardening gloves When To Prune Spring Underneath we discuss everything you need to know about pruning these lovely shrubs. When To Prune Nandina Prune Nandina domestica in mid-to-late spring – late April is ideal in most regions of the UK. Sterilise your secateurs or pruning shears with a solution of bleach or with readily-available hand sanitiser and I’d suggest that you wear gardening gloves before pruning. Can I Prune Heavenly Bamboo In Summer? It is not the best idea to prune sacred bamboo in the height of summer, as this is likely to affect flowering. Instead, prune in late spring after the last frosts, around April or May time, when it will be easier to avoid pruning new growth. If it is a pressing matter, you can also wait until early autumn after flowering has finished. How To Prune Nandina First, prune any cane that may have become relatively bare; these will usually be woody and visible near the base of the shrub. If the shrub is congested with one cane rubbing against another, prune the older cane. Trim to a node with a tuft of foliage any branch that is diseased, damaged or grown out of proportion to the rest of the shrub. Other than these obligatory steps, the rest of the pruning is strictly optional. However, you should not prune or trim any new shoots and avoid pruning or trimming the previous year’s canes or branches. You may trim a cane from the previous year only if absolutely necessary, like if it is jutting out horizontally or is damaged. For An Open & Airy Look Select well-spaced healthy canes for retention and mark out older, congested canes for pruning. These should comprise no more than one-third of the number of canes and you should prune them right at the base. From the canes that remain, prune or trim the branches or side shoots. Prune the branches that are older and closer to the base of the cane and trim the shoots that are higher up. Again, confine this pruning to one-third (or less) of the mass of the shrub. Repeated pruning of this type will result in an open, elegant shrub. I believe that hobbyist gardeners with limited time should opt to prune this plant in this fashion. For A Compact & Dense Form Though certainly not a conventional topiary plant, heavenly bamboo can be pruned into simple shapes or it can be pruned so as to achieve a compact, dense form. Allow the plant to grow for 2 years, then in the third year, cut the entire shrub down to about one-third of its overall size. Using pruning shears, cut just above leaf nodes. After such a cutback, fertilise the plant. A helping of slow-release balanced fertiliser or monthly feedings of an organic balanced fertiliser will be helpful. The next spring, simply trim the newer stems and shoots, trying to do so just above leaf nodes, to achieve the desired shape. Even if you have no particular shape in mind, this type of pruning will make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune canes or inner branches or shoots. For A Natural Appearance This last type of pruning is not easy and is time-consuming as you have to select specific canes and branches – some for pruning and others for trimming to a certain length. The aim is to achieve or enhance a ‘natural’ appearance. This is achieved by staggering the lengths of the canes and branches so that the shrub looks somewhat tiered. Do not prune or cut inner canes; prune or cut outer canes or the inner side-branches, except to ‘open up’ the shrub a little. Cut the canes to different lengths, trimming one-third to two-thirds of their lengths. Similarly cut the side branches to different lengths, trimming 30-50% of their lengths. Trim the canes and side-branches to these different lengths with an eye to creating a tiered or staggered form. The lower the side branch, the greater its length should be. In all cases, when canes or branches are trimmed, make the cut just above a leaf node, preferably just above a tuft of leaves.
Learn more
Potted Nandina: 'The More Diminutive Cultivars Make Excellent Container Plants'
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Nandina Containers Suitable Growing Medium Potting Up Nandina Potted Heavenly Bamboo Care Nandina domestica varieties range from 0.5-1.5m in height with proportional spreads and have the prettiest foliage imaginable. The small lanceolate leaves are of a light glazed shade of sea green – when they are green. Otherwise, they are in tones of orange, red or purple, sometimes when emerging, sometimes in autumn. They are low-maintenance evergreen shrubs with a naturally neat habit and the majority of varieties are fully hardy at H5. All in all, growing these beautiful shrubs in containers would make a great addition to any garden display. “The more diminutive Nandina cultivars make excellent container plants,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I’ve used them as a mid-layer in small gardens where they provide interest and structure year-round.” Choosing Nandina Containers Heavenly Bamboo requires free-draining soil, so be sure that the container you choose has drainage holes. I’d suggest an upright container that is like a truncated cone or pyramid rather than a wide planter. The height of the container should be about half the above-soil height of the plant. Varieties’ mature sizes vary widely, so you may need anything from a pot height of 20-70cm. These evergreens are good to grow in a decorative container made of synthetic material. However, they grow at a slow pace, so you may not pot on a mature shrub for 3 years or even more. Therefore, you should make sure to refresh, till and aerate the soil, otherwise opt for a terracotta container which does this itself much better than synthetic materials do. Suitable Growing Medium These shrubs do best in rich fertile soil that preserves moisture but drains very well. You can use a commercial multi-purpose potting compost or take mixed loam as a base and enrich it with a healthy quantity of well-rotted manure, preferably chicken manure, or organic compost. The medium should contain grit or perlite to promote good drainage. I often put a layer of pebbles at the base of the pot. If you make your own soil, the manure or compost content should ensure moisture retention, but if in doubt, add vermiculite. Heavenly bamboo does best in acidic soil. Potting Up Nandina A young, actively growing Nandina domestica shrub that is in a correctly-sized pot will probably need potting up about every 2 years. A full-grown plant in a large enough container will not need to be potted on for 4 years. However, you will need to turn over, till and aerate the soil, and refresh it with a dressing of organic compost. When potting up one of these slow-growing plants, choose a pot the next size up. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Though you can plant 2-3 of the diminutive cultivars in a pot or even a couple of the intermediate-sized ones in a planter, the form and habit of this graceful, well-proportioned evergreen are best enjoyed if planted on their own. Potted Heavenly Bamboo Care During the summer, young plants in containers need to be watered daily. On the other hand, established plants in the winter will need watering only once every several days. Feeding these plants with a balanced fertiliser will prove beneficial. You could work in controlled-release granules into the soil at the top of spring and then again 3 months later, or apply a liquid formula from mid-spring on a monthly basis for 6 months. I’d suggest that you use or dilute the fertiliser to about 75% of the recommended quantity or strength. In the UK, in all but the warmest regions, the container should be placed in a location with full sun, but this plant can also cope with partial shade. You do not need to bring heavenly bamboo indoors in winter in most regions of the UK. Simply make sure that it is tucked in a corner of your porch or patio where it is sheltered from northerly winds and protected from the elements. However, if you anticipate an extended spell of sub-freezing temperatures, I’d strongly recommend that you bring the container indoors.
Learn more
Horticulturists Share How To Prune Mahonia For Open Form, Bushiness Or Shape
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Mahonia How To Prune Mahonia Pruning For Open Form Pruning For Bushiness Pruning For Shape After Pruning Mahonia, commonly known as ‘Oregon Grape’, is a versatile shrub that is often used by gardeners for hedging and ground cover. The multi-faceted nature of mahonia partly comes about because it includes 70 species, of which only some vary in their characteristics from the majority. This diversity extends only to some extent when it comes to pruning mahonia because the number of varieties commonly grown descend from only a few species, though there are some differences. This is not to suggest that there is a fixed regimen for pruning mahonia – there isn’t, except for one guideline. How you prune mahonia depends on the existing state of the particular shrub and what you want from your mahonia plant. Underneath we explain these needs-dependent pruning activities. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs, pruning shears When To Prune Spring When To Prune Mahonia It’s important to note that you don’t have to prune mahonia. If the shrub is not overgrown or unkempt, not crowding other plants, or does not have bare, dead stems then you do not need to prune it. However, even if you do not need to prune your mahonia shrubs you may wish to prune them for various reasons. Whatever reason you prune them for, timing is important. These winter-spring flowering shrubs should be pruned in spring. Maintenance pruning, pruning for shape, and all forms of light pruning are best attempted in late spring very soon after fresh growth and new shoots are seen. Pruning for bushiness, cutting back, and all forms of severe pruning are best attempted in early spring before fresh growth emerges. I’d strongly recommend that you wear gardening gloves and sterilise your secateurs’ or pruning shears’ blades. Diluted rubbing alcohol or readily-found hand sanitiser are effective agents for sterilisation. How To Prune Mahonia Whichever branches are dead, bare, or diseased should be pruned at their attachments. In addition, it would be a good idea to prune awkwardly-growing branches that may be rubbing against others, jutting out from the base of the main stem or growing at a near-horizontal. Below are the other ways you can prune your mahonia for your garden needs: Pruning For Open Form You can accentuate the lines of the taller, relatively graceful varieties of mahonia by pruning for open form. Within the first 2-3 seasons, remove competing main stems and leaders, keeping, only around 2-3. Select branches that are relatively young, well-spaced, and growing at desirable angles between 40-60° to keep. From among the remainder, prune up to one-third at their attachments. Even if two close-by branches are young and vigorous, one will have to go if you want to achieve that graceful look with arcing canes and open branching. When pruning an overgrown, dense bush in this fashion I find it helpful to mark (with a simple watercolour marker) the canes intended for pruning when you are planning. Such markings will eliminate mix-ups and errors that are part and parcel of pruning and make the actual pruning easier and more mechanical. Pruning For Bushiness If your shrub has become leggy and straggly with sparse long branches, you can prune it to make it bushier, or you can even prune a ‘normal’ specimen to encourage bushiness. First, prune the main stem and canes at the desired height to close out vertical growth. Next, prune up to one-third of the lowermost and longest canes and branches to ground level or their attachments respectively, or cut them to one-third of their lengths. You can also cut some of the longer branches by 30-50% of their lengths to make the shrub more compact and to stimulate side shoots on the branches. Try to make the cut just above a node. This type of pruning will trigger fresh growth near the base of the shrub, resulting in a bushier, fuller form. Pruning For Shape Yes, Mahonia does not count as a topiary shrub but it is more amenable to shaping than most others. You can prune Mahonia shrubs into a compact simple shape, such as an oval. However, to be able to prune Mahonia shrubs for shape, the variety has to be of a bushy type to begin with. Then it should have been pruned for bushiness for a few seasons, and then allowed a season or two to grow. To prune for shape, do not prune any canes or side-branches at their attachments. Instead, visualise the desired shape and ‘sculpt’ for it, much as is done to a topiary shrub. You will not be selecting branches to prune; rather, some branches will get cut at whatever points of their length as an outcome of the ‘sculpting’. However, it’s typically best to cut just above a node and not to cut more than one-third of the shrub. “You may find species like Mahonia aquifolium send growth out from below the ground that you don’t want,” explains Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “This is called suckering and you can remove suckers in late spring or early summer with loppers or a sharp spade.” After Pruning After you prune your mahonia shrubs it is a good idea to feed them. A balanced organic fertiliser or slow-release granules of a balanced formula worked into the soil a safe distance from the crown would work very well.
Learn more
Here Are 15 Easy-To-Care-For Shrubs That Are Evergreen And Ornamental
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Azalea japonica 2) Rhododendron ‘Kirin’ 3) Leucothoe fontanesiana 4) Elaeagnus × ebbingei 5) Prunus laurocerasus 6) Nandina domestica 7) Euonymus fortunei 8) Euonymus japonicus 9) Pieris japonica 10) Berberis × stenophylla 11) Viburnum plicatum f. plicatum 12) Ilex aquifolium 13) Aucuba japonica 14) Forsythia × intermedia 15. Juniperus squamata If you’re looking for a shrub for your garden but don’t have all the time in the world to spend on its upkeep – then this is the article for you. We outline 15 fantastic low-maintenance shrubs underneath. Besides attributes related to low-maintenance, we strongly favour ornamental value with a focus on evergreens so that you do not lose your screen in the winter. 1) Azalea japonica COMMON NAME(S): Japanese azalea HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; acidic pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread When it comes to low-maintenance bushes with ornamental value, azaleas are runaway winners. They are big bushes that are verily covered for many months with truly beautiful flowers in diverse hues and Japanese azaleas are no exception. All of these types attain heights from 0.5-1m, offering privacy as well as ornamental value. 2) Rhododendron ‘Kirin’ COMMON NAME(S): rhododendron kurume HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; acidic pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Rhododendron ‘Kirin’ is an evergreen shrub not too dissimilar to the variety listed above, but this one is slightly larger. This variety produces the loveliest funnel-shaped flowers over a long blooming season, and the colours range from pure white through mauve to intense reds. 3) Leucothoe fontanesiana COMMON NAME(S): dog hobble HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; acidic pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread These evergreens are fully hardy at H6, have no special positioning needs, and even tolerate heavy or poor-draining soils, making them the perfect low-maintenance shrub. They have a moderate growth rate, a dense structure and are ideally sized for rockeries, pots, and garden nooks, ranging from about 40-140cm. These plants also produce copious small white flowers with some varieties blooming in spring and others in summer. In most varieties, spring and summer bring foliage that is red, purple or cream, be it entire, mottled, streaked, or just flushed, and even when the foliage is green in summer, it is of a satisfying bright deep shade. 4) Elaeagnus × ebbingei COMMON NAME(S): oleaster / ebbinge’s silverberry HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread Oleasters are tough, zero-fuss evergreens and are able to make do in exposed locations and tolerate clayey soils. Most varieties have no positional requirements at all and most are even drought-tolerant. They are also very big at 2.5-4m tall and wide, so they make terrific boundary walls and privacy screens, but they do need to be pruned to keep them like a shrub. Most varieties bear oodles of scented white or creamy flowers followed by orange or red berries in autumn, but it’s the silvery-green foliage that is the chief attraction here. 5) Prunus laurocerasus COMMON NAME(S): cherry laurel HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 4-8m in height, over 8m spread For big and dense low-maintenance evergreen hedges, cherry laurel has to be a top contender. Several varieties rise to 5m with an equal or greater spread. What’s more, this tough shrub can make do in all soils, including heavy ones, and has no positional or aspect needs. Cherry laurels are aptly named, as in autumn they produce bright red cherry-like berries that become black by winter. These are preceded by pretty tufty racemes of tiny white flowers, so this shrub provides multi-season interest. 6) Nandina domestica COMMON NAME(S): heavenly bamboo HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Nandina domestica, better known as heavenly bamboo, produces lots of small white flowers followed by decorative berries. However, these marvellous shrubs are actually all about fantastic foliage which not only sticks around all year but displays a palette of colour as well. The artistically-shaped lanceolate leaves emerge in shades of pink, red, orange and purplish. As they mature, they start turning green at different points and at different rates, exhibiting a medley of colour. These hardy shrubs only require a sheltered spot and are slow-growing so require little to no pruning. “I must stress that a sheltered spot out of frost pockets is essential for success with this shrub,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “A little attention early on pays off, for young plants, particularly those in pots, and I recommend protecting them with horticultural fleece against early and late frosts in the first year or two.” 7) Euonymus fortunei COMMON NAME(S): winter creeper HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Euonymus fortunei gives you lots of options. These hearty shrubs have no positional or aspect needs whatsoever and are content in even heavy soils. Its year-round foliage has small rubbery leaves that are edged, mottled, splashed or delicately variegated in green, white, cream, yellow, or gold. Almost all varieties will bring further seasonal colour interest in the form of small flowers, berries or winter foliage. 8) Euonymus japonicus COMMON NAME(S): Japanese spindle / evergreen spindle HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil tpyes; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread These evergreen shrubs are available in a range of sizes, from 0.5-3m in height with a similar spread. These plants are genuinely low-maintenance and provide brilliant all-year colour with glossy, rubbery leaves that come in hues that range from green to gold. These hardy evergreens have no special positional or aspect needs whatsoever nor do they need much pruning – you can simply plant and forget! 9) Pieris japonica COMMON NAME(S): lily-of-the-valley bush HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; acidic pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread Pieris japonicas are among the loveliest evergreen bushes you can grow and that’s because they are loaded with small flowers. Some varieties bud in winter and flower through spring while others flower from late spring into summer. Many are white and nearly as many are in shades of pink and red, and you can choose whether you like your flowers in upright sprays or drooping panicles. This plant has a naturally neat and tidy habit which is complemented by the elliptical leaves of shiny mid-green that emerge in reddish hues. “Success with Pieris is usually pretty simple, plant in acid soil and a sheltered spot that is protected from frost,” adds Dan. “Your plant will also thrive if you can water it during dry spells, but it is not essential once established.” 10) Berberis × stenophylla COMMON NAME(S): golden barberry / narrow-leaved barberry HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread This variety of barberry is evergreen, which is why we have picked it, though other barberry cultivars are also worth checking out. The golden barberry has stiff, glossy, spiny leaves of a dark green colour and bears clusters of small yellow flowers throughout spring. Moreover, this shrub has no positional requirements whatsoever, and can even thrive in somewhat dense and heavy soils. 11) Viburnum plicatum f. plicatum COMMON NAME(S): Japanese snowball HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread Viburnum plicatum is a deciduous shrub which can grow from 1-3.5m in height and spread. Though they are bare in winter, most viburnum varieties bring unmatched pleasures through the other three seasons. Spring is ushered in with a beautiful display of snowy white, sometimes pink, flowers arranged in lacecaps or in globular clusters. The varieties that cannot hold their flowers into summer will at least show off serrated ovate leaves of an intense green shade, and when autumn enters, those well-shaped leaves will turn orange, russet, wine or even maroon. These slow-growing shrubs have absolutely no positional or aspect needs and most are content even in clayey soils. 12) Ilex aquifolium COMMON NAME(S): common holly HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: Up to 12m in height, 4-8m spread Holly, with its glistening red berries, is associated with Christmas, but this ultra-pretty evergreen is far from a one-season wonder. Some display purple stems in spring, others produce little white flowers in summer, and most bear bright red berries in autumn – a few even feature all three! “t is important to do your homework if you want berries, as often you will need compatible male and female plants to achieve this,” Dan adds. Though we tend to think of Hollies as small trees, since many are, almost an equal number are bushy shrubs or can be pruned to become such. All of them are seriously low-care with zero positional requirements and are even content in all kinds of soil. 13) Aucuba japonica COMMON NAME(S): Japanese laurel HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full shade / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-3m in height, 1.5-3m spread Among the more unusual shrubs, Aucuba japonica plants are dioecious – either male or female. Only the female plants bear pretty, decorative red berries and they will do so if a male plant is nearby. These shrubs are virtually pest-free and disease-free and have no special positioning needs. Most cultivars have glossy, slightly toothed leaves, but it is their varying patterns that are so interesting as many cultivars’ bright green leaves are either speckled, dappled or smeared in equally bright yellow. 14) Forsythia × intermedia COMMON NAME(S): forsythia × intermedia HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Forsythias are deciduous shrubs that are tough enough to have no positional or aspect requirements and can tolerate all kinds of soil. Some varieties, when established, are also drought-resistant. Forsythia × intermedia varieties range from 1.5-4m high while other forsythia shrubs are more compact, typically 1-1.5m in height and spread. However, they all produce an abundance of small flowers that completely coat their branches in yellow. Recommended F. × intermedia cultivars include ‘Lynwood Variety’, ‘Spectabilis’ and ‘Week-End’. 15. Juniperus squamata COMMON NAME(S): flaky juniper HARDINESS RATING: H7 SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Requiring neither any special aspect, pruning or positioning, being fully hardy and truly maintenance-free, Juniperus squamatas are plant-and-forget evergreen shrubs. They are little things as they rise to only about 1m, with most varieties having a slightly bigger spread. They are actually conifers and, therefore, have those stiffish needle-like leaves. Most of these technically bushy plants have rather a mounding-spreading form with an irregular profile, some varieties more so than others, as branches and fronds tend to jut out here and there.
Learn more
F. japonica Pruning Guidelines - Useful For Maintenance, Reducing Size Or Creating Space
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Fatsia Japonica? When To Prune Fatsia How To Prune Fatsia Maintenance Pruning Pruning To Reduce Size Pruning As A Multi-Stemmed Tree Pruning To Create Space Pruning In Late Summer Fatsia japonica is an interesting plant to consider if you are looking to create a lush, tropical jungle-like look in your garden. It is H5 hardy so can withstand cold weather across most of the British Isles even during extreme winters. It can be very easy to care for, thriving with surprisingly little care and pruning. Fatsia japonica is pruned in the same way regardless of whether it is being grown indoors, or outside in the garden. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife, pruning saw, goggles, gardening gloves When To Prune Spring (or after flowering) Why Prune Fatsia Japonica? When pruning F. japonica, I find that one of the most important things is to determine your goals. You need to decide what you are trying to achieve with the pruning in order to work out the best times to prune and the correct methods to use. You might prune F. japonica: For simple maintenance and to keep it in good health. To reduce or restrict the growth of the plant, especially if growing in a container. To create a multi-stemmed tree type rather than a shrub. To remove lower branches and leaves for the benefit of plants growing in lower layers of lush planting. To give the plants a tidy-up towards the end of the summer. When To Prune Fatsia Maintenance pruning on F. japonica is typically best carried out in mid-spring, just before the season of new growth begins. At this time, you can also carry out more extensive pruning, depending on whether you wish to grow this as a bushy shrub, or train it into a small, multi-stemmed tree. You may wish to remove some lower branches for aesthetic reasons and to allow more light to reach the lower tiers of ground cover plants below. If you wish to keep the size of the plant in check then you can also consider undertaking a second pruning towards the end of the summer, though this is by no means essential. Late summer pruning does carry its risks, and it is important not to leave it too late since you need any cuts to heal well before cold weather arrives. If you are training F. japonica as a small tree, then this second pruning is typically not required. However, for aesthetic reasons, you may wish to remove any yellow leaves at this time to keep things looking neat. How To Prune Fatsia The actual process of pruning F. japonica is relatively easy and straightforward. The tools you will require will depend on the size of the specimen. For smaller Fatsia, you will generally only need some pruning shears, but for larger and woodier plants, you may well also need a pruning saw to cut through larger branches. To undertake this job, you will also need gardening gloves and goggles. It is important to make sure that your pruning tools are clean and sterile, and sharp, to prevent the spread of disease, and any damage to the plant. Maintenance Pruning To undertake general maintenance pruning, the first step is to take a good look at the Fatsia plant. Identify any dead, damaged or diseased leaves or branches and do not be afraid to cut these back hard, right to the main stem or to the base. If there seems to be congestion, with lots of stems too close together that are rubbing or crossing, cut out older stems from the centre of the plant to maintain good airflow and to make sure that the plant remains healthy. These older stems can also be cut back to ground level if required. Pruning To Reduce Size When growing in a restricted space, or in a container, you may need to cut back to reduce or maintain the size of your existing plant. You can cut back globally around the whole of the plant by as much as is required to maintain or reduce the size of the plant, allowing for the season of growth to come. If you wish for your Fatsia to continue to grow in size, then of course this type of pruning is not required, but as mentioned above, F. japonica can tolerate being cut back quite hard if needed. “If you want to maximise the amount of plants in a space then pruning your Fatsia japonica is a good option, as it allows you to plant under and around it to create attractive layered combinations,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. Just try to maintain the overall shape of the shrub and look at the plant aesthetically as you make any cuts. Pruning As A Multi-Stemmed Tree If you would like to grow a F. japonica as a multi-stemmed tree, then a little training pruning may be required. By selectively pruning out certain branches, you can coax the plant into the mature shape that you desire, with barer trunks lower down and more foliage towards the top. Select the stems that you would like to make into the main framework, then selectively prune out branches around these to the main stems or the ground to obtain the form you desire. Pruning To Create Space Whether in shrub or tree form, F. japonica can also be selectively pruned with an eye for allowing more light and air for planting below. F. japonica looks great in a lush, dense, jungle-like planting scheme with layered planting. By selectively pruning lower leaves and stems, you can open up the space for lower tiers of planting and keep your garden as beautiful and biodiverse as possible. Pruning In Late Summer Those who are pruning to keep the size of a F. japonica in check may sometimes find that they need to undertake a second pruning. This involves reducing the size of the plant once more after new growth, towards the end of the summer. Remember, however, that this is not typically required and can have its risks because the cuts to the plant may not have the time to heal properly before cold weather arrives if you leave it too late. It is generally best in late summer to simply remove any yellow leaves to keep the plant looking neat, though this is optional. These tips for pruning F. japonica should help you keep your plant healthy and looking as you wish it to look. Fortunately, not much of this pruning is really essential, and these plants are quite forgiving even if you’re not overly experienced with this gardening job.
Learn more
Experts Advise To Choose A Large And Heavy Container For Potted Forsythia
IN THIS GUIDE Is Forsythia Suited To Growing In Pots? Choosing Containers Choosing Compost Potting Up Forsythia Potted Forsythia Care Forsythias are cheerful yellow-flowered shrubs that are popular in many UK gardens. They are favoured by those looking for a splash of vibrant colour in the spring for hedging and for borders. However, can you also grow forsythia in pots? Is Forsythia Suited To Growing In Pots? Forsythias are typically vigorous and tall, reaching around 2m in height if left unpruned. They can, however, be pruned to restrict their size and to create hedging. If you would like to grow forsythia in pots, you will be able to do so, however, for the best results, it would be wise to opt for a smaller cultivar. “For shrubs like Forsythia in pots, even smaller cultivars, make sure you pot into the largest pot size that you can accommodate for the size of the shrub (remembering to pot-on as the plant grows rather than straight into a large pot),” shares Colin Shelly, a Master Horticulturist. Forsythia Bonsai “This will provide the highest possible level of nutrients and a moisture-holding capacity, which will be key in hot weather.” Options like F. x intermedia ‘Minigold’ and F. ‘Fiesta’ are smaller varieties that can work well in containers. The former grows to around 60cm in height, and the latter to around 1m. These are fairly hardy and tolerant shrubs that can work well in a range of settings and when provided with the right care they can certainly do well in containers. Choosing Containers When choosing a container for forsythia varieties, remember that even smaller cultivars will grow into moderately sized shrubs, and any pot or container that you choose should be large and heavy enough to accommodate a shrub that is destined to grow large over time. Choose a container that is just a little larger than the root ball of the plant that you have purchased, then pot up as required as the specimen grows. Choosing Compost Forsythia is not particularly fussy when it comes to the growing medium. It can thrive in a range of different soils when grown in the ground and that soil can have a wide range of different pH levels. When growing this shrub in containers, you can use any peat-free loam-based or soil-based compost or potting mix. You can purchase a commercial peat-free compost, or make your own homemade mix from soil, loam or leaf mould. When buying or making your potting mix, just keep in mind that forsythias prefer a moist yet free-draining medium, so incorporating a little grit into the mix could also be beneficial to avoid any potential issues with waterlogged soil. Potting Up Forsythia You can pot up a forsythia you have purchased at any time, but the best times to re-pot and plant forsythias are in spring or autumn when the conditions are relatively cool and the plant may have an easier time of establishment. Place a little of the compost or growing medium in the base of the new container, then place the plant into it and fill in more around the sides. Make sure that the forsythia sits at the same depth within this pot as it did in its previous one so that the compost or growing medium comes up to the same level on the plant. Once you have placed the plant in the container, firm the soil in gently around the roots, to fill in any air pockets. Take care not to compress the medium too much as this may lead to issues with compaction and water might fail to drain freely. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Typically, you will grow only one forsythia per pot or container, since even the smaller cultivars will take up quite a lot of space. However, this does not stop you from choosing a container large enough to accommodate a small forsythia shrub with a few other plants around the sides. Primrose For example, you might surround a small forsythia in a large container or planter with trailing winter evergreens like ivy, primulas, and smaller spring bulbs, like crocuses and Muscari, which bloom around the same time and will create a beautiful spring display. Potted Forsythia Care Caring for forsythias in containers will take a little more work than when growing them in the ground. However, as long as you make the right decisions about the container and fill it correctly, place it in the right location and care for it correctly as described below, you should still find it a relatively easy and trouble-free option for your container garden. Light & Exposure Place your container-grown forsythia in a sunny or lightly shaded spot. Note that the shrubs will flower best in a sunny position, so are best grown in full sun even though they can tolerate light or dappled shade. These hardy plants can be a good choice even for a colder and more exposed location. Watering & Fertilising Water container-grown forsythia well, especially during dry spells in spring and summer. Remember that plants grown in containers will dry out more quickly and require more frequent watering than those growing in the ground. When watering, it is best to give the plant a thorough soaking less frequently rather than providing water little and often. Forsythia typically doesn’t require additional fertilisation. However, if the growth seems poor, you can feed with a general-purpose organic plant feed in spring. Pruning You should prune well-established forsythias in mid-spring immediately after flowering. However, small cultivars suited to container growing rarely require any pruning at all. Forsythias are robust shrubs that tend to be mostly trouble-free so they can be a great shrub to grow, even if you only have the space or opportunity for container-grown varieties.
Learn more
Prune Forsythia In Spring Say Gardeners, Immediately After They've Finished Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Forsythia Pruning Young Shrubs Pruning Mature Stand-Alone Shrubs Hard Pruning Pruning Wall-Trained Types Pruning A Forsythia Hedge Forsythias can be remarkably easy and trouble-free plants to grow, and their yellow flowers in spring are not only attractive to us but also to pollinators early in the year when there may not be much else in bloom. The forsythia in my garden attracts pollinators, ensuring that there are plenty around when, soon after the forsythia has flowered, the fruit tree blossom emerges. Alongside a flowering currant, this shrub is beneficial for my wildlife-friendly and productive space, as well as looking very cheerful early in the year. Forsythia can largely look after itself once established, but though I am an advocate for minimal pruning with many plants, forsythia is one plant that really will thrive under a good pruning regime. So, let’s take a look at how to prune forsythia shrubs. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife When To Prune Spring When To Prune Forsythia Forsythia should be pruned in spring, immediately after they have finished flowering. Pruning any later can reduce flowering or even lead to a lack of flowering the following year. The only time when forsythia might be pruned at a different time is when hard pruning is being carried out to renovate an overgrown or unattractive forsythia that has been neglected over previous years. In this case, hard pruning should be undertaken between autumn and early spring, during the dormant period. Pruning Young Shrubs When plants are young and newly placed in a garden, you should typically simply let the plant develop and grow with only minimal intervention. However, it is still a good idea to give the plant a quick look in spring, and to remove any dead, damaged or diseased material, and perhaps any shoots that are poorly positioned. Small dwarf cultivars of forsythia are also best pruned minimally in the same way as all young shrubs of this genus throughout their lives. They won’t typically require as much pruning as taller types and won’t grow as quickly or vigorously as most shrubs in this genus. Pruning Mature Stand-Alone Shrubs Once forsythias become more mature, getting into the habit of pruning annually each spring is a good idea. You should first cut back the growth that has flowered to vigorous shoots lying lower down on the plant – ideally shoots that face upwards and to the outside of the shrub. Then, you should also consider removing up to 20% of the oldest stems down to the ground. This will encourage new, vigorous and healthy growth to emerge. It is also a good idea to thin out the centre of the plant by removing some stems to reduce congestion and, at the same time, to remove any weak growth. By removing weak stems, you can help the plant focus on its healthiest portions and branches, and also increase airflow through the plant – and further help to avoid overcrowding. Hard Pruning If you have been neglecting a forsythia in your garden, or have inherited one from a previous occupant, hard pruning may make it possible to recover a shrub that has become leggy, misshapen, too large or bare and poorly flowering. “Once a Forsythia bush consists mainly of older wood, it will begin to produce more flowers,” Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains. “This is the main reason I come across poorly flowering Forstyhia. The aim is to have a balance of older and newer stems to ensure that there are always floriferous stems in the wings. “Once that cycle is broken, the only option is to prune back hard and start again with regular annual pruning to get the branch age balance back.” If you do decide to carry out this type of pruning to renovate a mature shrub, then it is best to undertake this work during the dormant period between autumn and early spring. This hard pruning involves cutting down all stems almost to the ground and, of course, will result in the loss of flowers the following spring. However, if you mulch well with organic matter and water well after this treatment, new, healthy growth should replace the old growth that was removed, leading to an improvement in the appearance and flowering of the plant. You can undertake this type of pruning all at once or retain some old growth and flowers and cut back only some of the older growth in the first year – completing the hard pruning for renovation in the second year. Pruning Wall-Trained Types With wall-trained forsythia, natural growth is curtailed and the plant is trained and tied into horizontal wires or a trellis to grow vertically flat against a wall or fence. Immediately after flowering, cut back the flowering stems to leave just 1-2 buds before the main framework branches of the plant. If one of the framework branches does not flower well, then you may also wish to cut this out entirely and select and retain younger shoots to use as replacements for this older wood. These new shoots can be tied into the framework to fill in gaps. Pruning A Forsythia Hedge When pruning a forsythia hedge, the steps will be the same as for a mature stand-alone shrub. There will be just one added consideration, and that is pruning to maintain the shape and size of the hedge. As with stand-alone mature forsythia, you should first cut back flowered growth to vigorous shoots lower down that face upwards and to the outside of the shrub. Just remember as you do so that your aim is to restore the neat outline of the hedge. Then, you should also consider removing up to 20% of the oldest stems down to the ground. Again, remember, this will encourage new, vigorous and healthy growth to emerge. As you can see from the above, how precisely you will prune forsythia will depend on its age and the style or situation in which it is grown. However, once you have familiarised yourself with the requirements of annual pruning for this genus, you should find pruning forsythia to be a fairly quick and straightforward job each year.
Learn more
Prune Euonymus In Late Winter Or Early Spring, Following These Guidelines From Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Pruning Deciduous Types Pruning Evergreen Types 1) Maintenance Pruning 2) Pruning For Hedging Or Topiary Forms 3) Renovation Pruning Euonymus can be deciduous or evergreen shrubs and are extremely useful for bringing year-round interest in the garden, with many varieties suited to different uses in a garden, from hedging to wall or ground cover. Euonymus can be pretty low-maintenance plants, especially once established. As long as you choose the right option and grow it in the right location, you should find that it takes little care. Euonymus (AKA ‘Spindles’) are generally quite slow-growing and well-formed; neither deciduous nor evergreen types necessarily have to be pruned at all. However, many gardeners will prefer to keep their gardens looking good with a little light pruning, and when evergreen types are grown in hedges or topiary forms, then they will be pruned more frequently to be kept under control. Evergreen euonymus can also be pruned more severely in order to renovate a shrub that no longer looks its best to spur it into plenty of new growth. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife When To Prune Late winter to early spring When To Prune If you are pruning a euonymus shrub, then the best time to do so is typically in late winter or early spring. With flowering types that bloom in spring, pruning is often carried out immediately after flowering. When deciding when to prune a specific euonymus, it is always best to think about what you wish to achieve. Maintenance pruning (removing dead or damaged material and giving the plant a general light tidy) is undertaken in late winter or early spring. A hedge or other more shaped and formal shrub might additionally be pruned in summer. With most euonymus, however, it is best not to prune too late in the season as this can lead to the damage of new growth by winter frosts. Pruning Deciduous Types Deciduous types of euonymus, like European spindle and E. alata, do not usually require much, if any, pruning at all. These shrubs stand-alone with well-shaped form and are fairly well-behaved amid other shrubs and other plantings in a bed or border. Though these shrubs can also be used in hedging, like the evergreen types below, they are typically looser and used in more informal hedgerows that are left in a wilder and more naturalistic form. So, if any pruning is carried out, this is typically restricted to cutting out any dead or damaged material, and perhaps any branches that are growing in the wrong direction here and there. Pruning Evergreen Types Evergreen euonymus, like E. fortunei and E. japonicus, are also often best left to grow fairly naturally without too much shaping, as they often retain a pleasing form. Some, of course, grow much larger and taller than others, so it is important to choose a plant that suits the size of the space available. However, there are three types of pruning that might be undertaken, depending on your specific wants and needs: Maintenance pruning Hedge or topiary shaping Renovation pruning 1) Maintenance Pruning Typically, in a more naturalistic scheme, you will simply need to prune out any dead, damaged or unsightly material in late winter or early spring. This is not always required, but you may also give the plant a light trim all over to encourage bushiness and new growth each year. You can also trim lightly to restrict the size of the plant or to give it a less lopsided appearance if it has become a little uneven. 2) Pruning For Hedging Or Topiary Forms If you are pruning euonymus to retain the shape of a hedge or topiary form, then pruning will typically have to be more precise. With a loose and informal hedgerow, pruning will not really be necessary, other than perhaps a light trim here and there to retain the shape. However, with a neat, formal hedge or topiary form, more neat and accurate pruning for shaping and restricting growth will typically be required. In addition to a light prune in late winter or early spring, you might also wish to undertake a further trim in the summer months. It is best to use a pair of secateurs or loppers rather than hedge trimmers to keep a formal euonymus hedge looking its best. “With evergreen larger leaved shrubs, cutting with hedge trimmers will cut across leaves leaving unsightly browning or die back,” says Colin Skelly, Professional Horticulturist. “Instead, cut back to where the leaf joins a stem or a stem joins a branch. This will leave a neater shrub but avoid unsightly leaf cuts.” 3) Renovation Pruning While hard pruning is not typically required for spindle plants, every now and then it may be beneficial to cut back euonymus shrubs much harder, to improve the appearance and vigour of a mature shrub or ageing hedge. Evergreen euonymus can be cut right back by 30-50% in order to establish a lush and bushy form without gaps or wood-showing sections. While it will take a little time for the plant to return to its former glory, it will typically look better once it does. Just note that this more drastic pruning is not suitable for all euonymus types, so make sure you are aware of the characteristics of the specific euonymus you are growing before you take the decision to dramatically renovate your shrub or hedge.
Learn more
Looking To Propagate Euonymus Shrubs? Use One These Methods For Guaranteed Success
IN THIS GUIDE Growing From Seed Growing From Semi-Hardwood Cuttings Euonymus are very useful shrubs and if you already have some in your garden, you may well wish to propagate your existing plants to obtain more. How you will propagate euonymus will depend on which type you are growing. The best means of propagation for the types most commonly grown in the UK is by means of semi-hardwood cuttings. However, you can also grow some varieties from seed. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seed tray or pots, secateurs, potting compost, rooting hormone When To Propagate Summer or autumn Growing From Seed In November, wait until the seed capsules on an existing spindle break open to reveal the orange seeds within. Take the orange seeds from their capsules, discard any that are damaged, and place the ones that look good into a bag filled with damp vermiculite or sharp sand. Leave the bag slightly open to allow air inside. Keep them warm at around 15°C for 10 weeks, making sure that they remain slightly moist but not wet. Next, place them in the fridge for up to 16 weeks. Check them regularly and when you see the first few seeds sprout, take the others and sow them right away. Sow the seeds into pots filled with good quality, peat-free, seed-starting compost and grow them on, potting up as required, for another year or two before planting your new spindles out into their final growing positions. Growing From Semi-Hardwood Cuttings Semi-ripe cuttings of many types of euonymus can be taken between mid-summer and early autumn: Choose a healthy side-shoot of current season growth, which is firmer at the base and soft at the top. Take a cutting 10-15cm in length, cutting just below a leaf node. Remove the soft growth from the tip of the cutting, leaving around 4 leaves in place. Dip the end of the cutting into a rooting compound for the best results. Place the cutting in a pot filled with a cuttings potting mix. Grow on and continue to tend, watering when required and cuttings should root well over the next growing season. Plant out well-rooted cuttings when the weather warms during the second spring. Both of these processes are time-consuming, though relatively straightforward, and could be good options to consider if you are interested in propagating your own plants at home. While these methods are the best and offer the greatest chance of success, you might also try taking hardwood cuttings with a heel in autumn and rooting these in a cold frame. This involves holding branches down below the soil with a wound on them, where roots can form, then severing the branch from the parent once the new section is well rooted. “This method of propagation, called layering, is a great way to grow new shrubs, although it won’t work for all shrubs,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If you don’t have a greenhouse, this is a perfect way to grow more euonymus.”
Learn more
