Growing
“Don’t Crowd Common Sages" - Expert Salvia Growers Share Common Growing Problems
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Poor Flowering 2) Short Flowering Period 3) Root Rot 4) Winter Damage Salvias are usually relatively easy plants to grow, are mainly untroubled by pests and diseases on the whole – and any problems you encounter are most likely to be related to environmental conditions, improper positioning or care. Salvias typically need a spot in full sun with free-draining soil, but specific care will often depend on whether you are growing an annual, perennial or shrubby variety. “Salvias are very forgiving and easy to grow plants and, as long as you follow the correct care advice, there should be very few problems,” says Vicki Weston, from Weston’s Salvias. However, some of the common problems you might encounter include: Poor flowering. A short flowering period over the summer. Root rot or other fungal issues. Frost or winter damage to tender cultivars. Below we explain these problems in more detail and outline how you can solve them to keep your salvia plants happy and healthy. 1) Poor Flowering Poor flowering can be caused by a number of issues, but the most common cause is that it has been placed in the wrong spot and is not getting enough sun. Moving your salvia to a sunnier and more suitable spot should solve this issue. “Make sure you know the growth type of your salvia and when it flowers,” says Lyndi Garnett, coordinator of the Victorian Salvia Study Group. “Large and tall salvias flower in autumn and winter, so don’t cut down in winter.” 2) Short Flowering Period You may have heard that salvias have a long blooming period over the summer. However, if you fail to deadhead the flowers when they have faded by around mid-summer, then the plants will go to seed rather than continue to produce blooms. Deadheading is a good idea with most salvias to prolong the flowering period for as long as possible… 3) Root Rot Another common issue with sage is wilting leaves, yellowing and stunted growth caused by overly wet or waterlogged conditions. One of the most important things when growing salvia is to ensure free-draining conditions. Take care not to overwater and make sure excess water can drain away freely, whether you are growing your salvia in containers or in the ground. “If you have moist soil, consider growing a species that has a preference for moister soil, such as Salvia uliginosa,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Mulching is still a good idea in winter and leaving foliage intact but its natural proclivities increase the odds in your favour.” Waterlogging or excessive watering can cause damage to the salvia roots and can cause root rot, allowing fungal issues to take hold. “Don’t crowd common sage varieties,” says Lyndi. “They need sun and air, and they can remain for some years – they’re not just an annual.” If a salvia plant seems to be suffering, improving drainage may allow it to recover. 4) Winter Damage Keeping salvia, especially more tender types, safe through the winter months is often the biggest challenge when growing these plants. Frost can cause damage to tender types which are not offered some protection from the winter cold. Some plants that have been hit by winter cold can grow new growth in spring. However, if there are no signs of regrowth by June, then the plant has likely died. Many salvias will struggle more with winter wet and may die if kept in waterlogged conditions, so make sure that plants have some protection from winter deluges. To overwinter tender types successfully, those in milder areas may mulch around the plants with a 10cm layer of well-rotted manure or other organic material. In harsher areas, it is best to lift these tender types and place them in pots under cover or indoors over winter. If growing salvias with borderline hardiness, don’t cut them back in the autumn. “Careful when pruning your salvias,” says Lyndi. “Don’t prune all stems down and leave one with green growth so the plant doesn’t go into shock.” It is best to wait until late spring because this offers some protection to the roots in cold weather conditions and is also great for providing some shelter for wildlife. See more detailed advice in our guide to overwintering salvias.
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Unless You Want The Seeds, Make Sure To Deadhead Your Salvias Warns Vicki Weston
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare Your Tools 2) Wait For Blooms To Fade 3) Deadhead Spent Flowering Stems 4) Feed In Mid-Summer Salvias can be a wonderful choice for a UK garden. These wildlife-friendly plants can, when cared for correctly, bloom for a long period over the summer months and sometimes even beyond. Deadheading is one of the jobs to undertake if you are growing these plants in your garden. “You should tip prune your salvias regularly to keep them bushy,” says Lyndi Garnett, one of the founding members of The Victorian Salvia Study Group. As Lyndi says, deadheading is important for salvias because it will encourage the plants to put their energy into producing new flowers and blooming over a longer period, rather than going to seed. Of course, if you want to collect seeds from your salvias then you should not deadhead too zealously – and should allow them to enter their seed-producing phase. However, if you would rather enjoy their flowers over a longer period, then keep reading. 1) Prepare Your Tools Whenever you are deadheading or pruning, it is very important to make sure that your tools are sharp and clean. Blunt tools can cause damage to plants and, if you do not practice good hygiene in the garden, they can inadvertently spread disease. Make sure you have some sharp, clean secateurs ready for this job. 2) Wait For Blooms To Fade Salvias tend to start to bloom in May or June and can bloom right through the summer if you deadhead them. If you don’t, then the flowers will bloom only until around midsummer before they go to seed, although you can deadhead at different times of the year too: “Generally, salvias can be deadheaded at any time of the year, but they must be pruned at least once, ideally twice a year,” says Lyndi. In the middle of summer, you should check over your salvias and look for any flowering stalks that are turning brown. The brown colouration will begin at the base of the flowering area and work its way upwards. Once around 70-80% of the blooms on a flowering spike have faded and turned brown, it is time to consider deadheading by removing that particular flowering stem. 3) Deadhead Spent Flowering Stems Cut off any spent flowering stems where the stem meets the highest set of leaves on the plant. Cut through the stem at this point with your clean and sharp secateurs. New flowering stems should usually grow off the sides of the existing stems. You may wish to repeat this process over the summer to ensure as long a blooming period as possible. “Don’t cut them back in autumn!” warns Vicki Weston, owner of Weston’s Salvias. “Although the plants will look a bit bare in the deepest parts of winter, wait until you can see green shoots at the very base of the plant, then you can tidy back and deadhead to a neat shape. “You’ll have to be patient with some but they will all shoot.” 4) Feed In Mid-Summer “Remember to feed and mulch your plants after any kind of pruning,” says Lyndi. Feed your salvia with an organic, potassium-rich liquid plant feed in the middle of the summer, especially when growing in containers. This will help increase the chance of further blooms and keep your plants as healthy as possible.
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From Fireblight To Root Rot - Here's 5 Common Photinia Growing Problems And Solutions
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Leaf Spot 2) Fireblight 3) Powdery Mildew 4) Frost Damage 5) Root Rot A popular garden hedge, photinia is a shrub that has seen an increase in its use in British gardens in recent years. It features brilliant spring and summer colours, as young foliage and fresh leaves are a striking hue of red. Rightfully considered a low-maintenance evergreen, photinia is susceptible to some problems and issues that are exacerbated by incorrect growing conditions. They are also minimised by favourable growing conditions, and can altogether be avoided in optimal conditions. We share 5 of the most common issues and problems you may encounter with your photinia shrubs, outlining how each problem can be avoided and treated. 1) Leaf Spot A fungal disease, leaf spot is probably the most annoying and chronic, though not the most serious, problem that can affect photinias. The disease is easy to recognise as it manifests as small red spots on leaves. The spots become larger and blotchier, darkening to maroon-purple, until eventually it starts shedding its diseased leaves, and does so continually. Heat, humidity, and wetness promote the spread of the leaf spot fungus, so by adjusting your photinia’s growing conditions, you should be able to prevent leaf spot from occurring in the first place. Appropriately-diluted solutions can also be applied as a foliar spray about every 10 days. 2) Fireblight Fireblight is a bacterial disease and is probably the most dreaded affliction of photinias, and that is because there is no remedy available to a hobbyist gardener. Summer is usually when this disease raises its ugly head. The symptoms of this disease are shoots and young leaves rapidly drying out, browning, and dying as if they have been blighted or scorched by intense sun or fire – hence the name. In addition, cankers may appear on mature branches which may start to ooze. Again, you can go some way toward preventing fireblight in the first place, but if you are too late, there are unfortunately no commercial chemical controls for this disease. If you spot it in the initial stages, you have a fighting chance if you quickly prune or trim all affected parts. The trick here is to peel back bark from the trimmed branches to inspect whether you can see a reddish-brown discolouration. If you do, cut the branch to a lower level. Alternatively, you could play it safe and hard prune the bush. 3) Powdery Mildew Photinia bushes can also be affected by powdery mildew. Powdery Mildew appears as a greyish-white powdery layer on the foliage. It too is strongly linked to humidity, wet, and shade, so you should avoid it by watering at the soil level. Affected parts need to be trimmed back. 4) Frost Damage Frost damage is, in the main, merely a nuisance. A cold snap or chilly wind could kill emerging shoots and foliage, though mature branches and foliage will not be damaged. The upshot is loss of colour, flowers, or both. 5) Root Rot Root Rot is a very serious ailment which can prove dangerous for any plant. Soil that stays soaked, dense and heavy, or drains poorly can lead to root rot. A container-bound photinia can certainly be treated for root rot provided the case is not advanced. The plant has to be pulled up and the rotten lengths of the roots, as long as they are not extensive, need to be cut away and the plant must be re-potted in fresh soil. Unfortunately, a large open-ground hedge that is afflicted with root rot may be difficult to save.
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Try These Approaches When Propagating Photinia - Including How To Grow An Exact Cultivar
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Propagation From Seed 2) Propagation From Softwood Cuttings 3) Propagation From Semi-Hardwood Cuttings Amongst all shrubs, photinia is one of the most prized for its red or pink leaves that provide rich colour in the spring and summer months. If you like photinias, you will be happy to hear that these evergreen shrubs are quite easy to propagate from stem cuttings. However, there is a preferred method for propagation depending on the variety in question and also on your region, so make sure you check which one you are growing first. That said, you can attempt to propagate photinia by cuttings any time from late spring to late summer. “If you want to grow an exact cultivar, such as Photinia ‘Red Robin’, then seed growing is not the method to choose as they will not come true,” explains Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “You will need to propagate from cuttings as these will be genetically identical.” Although this might be the most common way of propagating these plants, there are actually 3 different ways to do this in the UK, which are: By seed. From softwood cuttings. From semi-hardwood cuttings. Each of these three methods is explained in more thorough detail below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs and gardening gloves When To Propagate March-April or July-August 1) Propagation From Seed Photinia seeds should be sown in mid-spring but to increase the chances of germination they will need preliminary chilling. In mid-February, put the seeds into a clear zip-lock bag, seal it, and put it in the fridge. The optimal temperature for the seeds is between 0-5°C. A week or two after the last frost, you can sow the seeds in pots or on the open ground. After removing the seeds from the fridge, put them in a bowl of water for 12-24 hours before sowing. Seeds may be sown in potting mix in small pots and transplanted later or even sown directly outdoors in moderately rich loamy soil. In either case, the soil should drain very well. The pots or planting site should be in full sun or partial shade and, at least initially, in a sheltered spot. Sow seeds in the morning by nudging them into the soil and gently patting down the soil onto the seeds. Water well and keep the soil consistently moist until seedlings sprout. 2) Propagation From Softwood Cuttings From late March to early April, prepare a small pot with potting mix and sand. When rooting cuttings, I like to layer the media in the pot, with pebbles and grit for the lowest layer, organic compost, well-rotted manure, and sand in the middle, and sand and vermiculite at the top where the cutting will initially root. This technique allows the cutting to develop into a small plant before you need it to pot up. By mid-morning sometime in late March to early April, select a vigorously-growing fresh green shoot or branch. Cut a length of 10-15cm, making the cut just beneath a leaf node, obtaining the uppermost three leaves and trimming the rest. You may dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone powder, but this is not necessary because photinia cuttings root so readily and reliably. Make a hole in the medium and insert the cutting from a quarter to a third of its length in it and firm up the medium around it. Put the pot in a place where it will get ample indirect sunlight and will not be exposed to the cold or the wind then water it well. Water the cutting moderately every day such that the medium stays moist. 3) Propagation From Semi-Hardwood Cuttings This method is similar to propagation from softwood cuttings except for a few details. It is best attempted in the late July to early August timeframe. Select a branch that is green at the growing end but brownish or greyish, but not entirely woody, at its attachment. Cut a length of 15-20cm, making the cut just beneath a leaf node. For this method, you only need to retain the upper 2 leaves and you can remove the rest. If you do not want the cutting itself to shoot up as a leader, trim the tip of the cutting, but if you do, leave this. The other steps are the same as those shown in Method 2. By using one of these methods, you should be able to propagate your own photinia plants – even early or late in the year.
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Pruning Photinia Can Help With Disease Prevention: How To Give Them A Spring Trim
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Photinia? When To Prune Photinia Preparation Before Pruning Autumn-Winter Pruning For Disease Prevention Spring Trimming For Foliage Colours If you want a low-maintenance, hardy and colourful shrub, look no further than photinia and its varieties – the vast majority of which are evergreen shrubs. Some photinia varieties are trees and a few are deciduous shrubs and in this guide, I will explain how to prune evergreen shrubs, like Photinia ‘Red Robin’. While many members of the Plant Kingdom are renowned for their autumn colours, photinia brings a new twist and is prized for its spring and summer foliage colours, with its young leaves displaying eye-catching tones of reds and pinks. Like most evergreen shrubs, photinias do not need to be pruned as such. They grow in a naturally pleasing form, but with minimal trimming for size and shape, and to take out stray, protruding stems, pruning can be a good idea. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs or pruning shears When To Prune Spring or autumn Why Prune Photinia? The first objective is disease prevention. Photinia × fraseri cultivars, of which ‘Red Robin’ is one, are very susceptible to leaf spot which is a fungal disease. Correct pruning in the interior of the bush during the autumn and winter seasons will significantly reduce the chances of the plant succumbing to this disease. In addition, a few photinia varieties are renowned for the eye-catching and exciting colours of emerging foliage and young leaves. Correct trimming on the stem tips during spring will stimulate fresh foliage and with it, those charming, exciting colours. It’s important to be aware that it is this very foliage, the fresh young leaves that are so colourful and desirable, that is most susceptible to that worrisome leaf spot. When To Prune Photinia The spring trim, as stated above, gives rise to those colourful young leaves that photinia is prized for. However, this bush also produces clusters or sprays of little flowers of a rich creamy colour, in the late spring and early summer, which are also a delightful sight. These flowers will appear only on untrimmed stems, so you have a choice to make between colourful foliage or creamy flowers. The first phase of pruning is generally done in late autumn to early winter, with the second being carried out in mid-spring. We explain these two phases below in more detail. Preparation Before Pruning Make sure to sterilise your tools before any type of pruning, especially with photinia as it is so susceptible to leaf spot. Diluted rubbing alcohol, a solution of bleach, or readily-available hand sanitiser (with sufficient alcohol content) are all very good sterilising agents. We suggest you wear gardening gloves before undertaking any pruning tasks. Autumn-Winter Pruning For Disease Prevention The aim of this pruning is to ensure that the lower part and interior of the bush are not dense and congested because if it is, it has to be opened up. “I would tend to open up Photinia that are in partial shade or have suffered from leaf spot,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “This will optimise air movement and light penetration. This should help to maintain the health of the shrub. “Asides from plant health, Photinia can be shaped, so don’t be afraid to get stuck in. Avoid hedge cutters or shears, though, to maintain the attractive foliage.” From the bottom and interior of the bush, select stems to eliminate. The first to go should be those that are dead and diseased. You should also prune branches that are touching and rubbing against others, choosing to eliminate the one that is older or misshapen. Finally, prune to open up space in the interior of the bush to permit sunlight to reach it and enhance air circulation. If you choose to carry out this task on an annual basis you shouldn’t have to prune many branches at all, but if you begin to prune a neglected or congested bush, you may need to remove up to a third of the stems. Spring Trimming For Foliage Colours The second phase of trimming is best done in mid-spring or later if you live in a very cold region, as a subsequent frost may well blight fresh growth. The aim is to trim shoots and new branches by 10-18cm. This will trigger fresh growth that will bring about those delightful foliage colours. I strongly recommend that powered hedge trimmers not be used at all and that you only use hand gardening tools (with sharp blades) for trimming photinias. Trim protruding and straggly branches by a greater length whilst trimming tidy shoots by smaller lengths. If you would like the bush to bear flowers, trim only about 50% of the branches and shoots in this fashion. During spring trimming, you may as well try to give a gentle upward taper to the bush. Such a taper will allow sunlight to reach all the way down the bush, and sunlight plays a big part in keeping plant diseases at bay.
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Keep On Top Of Vigorous Photinia If Growing In Pots - Experts Share How In This Guide
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Photinia In Pots? Potted Photinia Varieties Suitable Container Sizes Compost Requirements Potting Up Photinia Potted Photinia Care Photinias are hardy evergreen shrubs that are appreciated in many regions for their ability to grow into colourful and attractive hedges without much effort on the part of the gardener. Though so many hedges delight us with thrilling autumn colours, photinias produce wonderful spring and summer foliage that is definitely among the best. Most cultivars put out young leaves that are in shades of pink and red while a minority have coppery, bronze, marbled or cream-edged foliage. Photinias are commonly grown in open ground, but you might also be wondering if you can grow these stunning plants in pots. Can You Grow Photinia In Pots? In general, most Photinia varieties are planted in open ground where they serve as decorative bushes, hedges and screens. As to whether they can be grown in pots, the truth is, it depends. It depends on the variety, as while several varieties attain manageable sizes of up to 2m in height and about 1.5m in spread, several other varieties grow to over 5m and some of these have a fast growth rate to boot. Obviously, varieties of the latter larger dimensions should not be grown in pots. Even a photinia that is expected to grow to a relatively modest height and spread, if grown in a container, will require annual pruning for size and shape. Potted Photinia Varieties While the biggest varieties will become too large, bulky and unwieldy for any container, you could certainly grow one of the intermediate-sized varieties in a large container, pruning it regularly after it reaches the desired size. In fact, the aptly-named Photinia ’Little Red Robin’ and the dwarf cultivar Photinia × fraseri were specifically developed for container growing. Suitable Container Sizes Firstly, the container should be large enough to accommodate your photinia variety at its given stage of maturity. The rule of thumb is that the container should be half as high as the above-soil height of the plant. Most photinia varieties are fairly vigorous growers so it makes sense to choose a container that is a size bigger than the next size up. The container should have drainage holes and I’d recommend using a terracotta or other clay pot. If you opt to grow a largeish, spreading variety in a container, a planter would be very suitable. Compost Requirements Soil that is light, friable, moderately fertile, and free-draining is best for photinias in containers. Prepare a mix of garden soil with added grit combined with organic compost and well-rotted manure and blend the two mixes in approximately a 7:3 ratio. “If you don’t have access to garden soil, garden centres usually stock John Innes No.3, which is formulated to provide the perfect mix of loam and sand for mature shrubs in pots and containers,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. Photinia thrives in soil with a pH level that is slightly acidic. Potting Up Photinia Potting up or transplanting a large photinia is a task best done by two people. In the early morning, soak the photinia in the container. Water the soil for the new container (which should only be filled partially) or the transplanting site. Run a flat trowel around the container at the edge of the soil to loosen it. I find a cement trowel perfect for this purpose. Lift the container and hold it horizontally and at the same time, try to prise out the soil ball with a spade and push it outward through the drainage holes. If this proves difficult, simply break the container. When placing the shrub in the new container or transplanting site, try to spread out the roots. Be sure that the soil line of the stems is the same as it was in the old container, or just a tad higher. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? You should only plant one per pot. However, if you use a wide enough planter, you may plant 2 or more of the more reasonably-sized varieties in it to create a containerised decorative hedge. Potted Photinia Care The vast majority of photinias, including ‘Red Robin,’ will do best in full sun, otherwise in partial shade. However, ‘Little Red Robin’ should be sited in partial shade or even full shade and full sun is to be avoided for this variety. Photinias are hardy to H4 or H5 and they do not have special requirements for aspect or shelter. However, in the colder parts of the country, especially in winter, it would be wise to avoid northern exposure and keep them in a sheltered spot. Ensure that they are protected from wet and wind during the winter. Young plants may need daily watering, whilst mature plants in containers will need less frequent, though regular, watering. In hot and dry conditions in a full sun spot, more water may be required. Though open-ground photinias do not need feeding, container-grown ones will do better with a spring shot of fertiliser. Use a conservative quantity of an all-purpose liquid fertiliser and work it into the soil, taking care to stay away from the roots, or prepare a solution to use as a liquid feed.
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Oleander Are Frost-Tender Plants: Follow These Guidelines To Keep Them Alive
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Things To Avoid 2) Lay Mulch 3) Shield The Bush 4) Protect The Roots 5) Swaddle The Main Stem Oleanders, those gorgeous flowering bushes that are often a part of the urban scenery in the Mediterranean and South Asia, are very decorative garden options whether grown in open ground or a large container. However, they are far from hardy, so British gardeners will need to shepherd these evergreens through the worst of winter. With a hardiness rating of H3, these are frost-tender plants. If you have grown a moderately-sized oleander in a container, you don’t have much to do – simply bring the plant indoors in autumn well before the first frost. “For large plants in containers that you might struggle to get into a greenhouse or conservatory over winter, a lesser degree of shelter could still be effective,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For example, bringing into a porch or well-lit section of a garage or other garden building or even under a tree canopy or lee of a wall, fence or hedge. “You may notice these more protected areas of the garden as sites where snow settles last and melts first.” As for open-ground oleanders, you can care for them for the winter by following these steps: Avoid feeding and hard pruning in autumn. Lay some organic mulch of roughly 8-10cm in depth around the main stem of the plant. Shield the bush with a barrier made of a strong material. Protect the roots of your oleander using plastic sheet or tarp (optional). Swaddle the main stem using horticultural fleece or hessian. All five steps are explained in much greater detail below. Difficulty Easy-Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, plastic tarp, horticultural fleece When To Prune Autumn-Spring 1) Things To Avoid Do not hard prune the bush in late autumn or after. Any hard pruning should be done by early autumn. Continue to water this evergreen plant during winter though the amount of water and frequency of watering should be reduced. I would suggest you use tepid water during winter – and do not feed the plant at all between the first and last frost. 2) Lay Mulch Before the first frost, lay an 8-10cm layer of mulch around the main stem, leaving open about 2cm around it. Be sure not to use an ericaceous mulch, such as a mulch composed of bark or pine needles. A mulch of leaf, hay and straw would be much more suitable. Remove the mulch after the last frost. 3) Shield The Bush If your oleander bush is correctly sited, it will be in a sheltered, south-facing spot. If not, you may have a job on your hands. Freezing northeasterly blasts, even if they do not prove fatal, will damage the plant buds and maybe even some branches. You will need to shield such an incorrectly sited oleander by placing a barrier at a short distance to the north of the bush. For example, you could put up a curved sheet of corrugated metal which should be driven and wedged into the soil. Be sure to brace it with diagonal supports against the ground or tie it with guy lines to secure it so that it does not get blown onto the bush. You could also set up a shield using tent side panels or canvas. These would need to be tied from the upper and lower edges. 4) Protect The Roots Heavy rain, sleet or snow will result in an accumulation of icy water in the soil which could be harmful to oleanders. When such inclement weather is anticipated, spread a thick plastic sheet or tarp on the soil so that the root system, particularly the crown, is protected. After the water runs off and as soon as the elements do not pose a threat to your oleander, you can remove the plastic sheet or tarp. 5) Swaddle The Main Stem If you expect temperatures to hit freezing, and especially if your oleander plant is not mature or established, protect it with a horticultural fleece, hessian or even an old blanket. Wrap the material loosely along the lower part of the main stem down from the ground up to about a foot. When such weather is expected in spring, also consider swaddling branch extremities with lighter material to protect the buds from cold damage. Do not leave on these wrappings, especially on the main stem, and as soon as the weather warms up or the day is sunny, remove them.
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Pruning Oleander Out Of Season Can Devastate Your Plant - Here's How To Do It Right
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Remove Damaged Branches 2) Deadhead 3) Autumn Pruning 4) Spring Touch-Ups This lovely evergreen features narrow greyish-green or sea-green leaves and bears little salver-shaped flowers in terminal clusters all throughout summer and beyond. However, if you prune oleander out of season in the UK, the plant can get into serious trouble and even struggle for survival. On the other hand, in the right season, an oleander bush will not be harmed one bit by even a severe prune. You don’t have to prune these low-maintenance evergreens. Pruning, however, will significantly enhance flowering and will keep the bush’s shape neat and tidy, and here’s how to do it: Remove any dead or damaged branches from the plant. Deadhead any spent flowers as and when they appear. Prune in the Autumn – after flowering but before the first frost. Make any final adjustments with your final spring touch-ups. Each step of this process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs, pruning shears When To Prune Autumn 1) Remove Damaged Branches Any branches that have died, become bare or have been damaged by pests or breakage should be pruned when observed, anytime from spring to autumn. You may also want to prune an excessively long, protruding, or unsightly branch. Using pruning shears, cut a branch right at its attachment to the main stem or origin branch. 2) Deadhead A short time into the blooming season, flowers will start to fade and wither. Simply twist or snip off these spent blooms. Often, most of the flowers in a terminal cluster will be wilted and spent. You may as well remove these clusters entirely at their attachment or just above the branch’s node. Deadheading will, at least to some extent, spur fresh blooms. It will also keep the bush looking neat and improve aesthetics. 3) Autumn Pruning Timing is crucial if you need to prune oleanders in autumn. Do so as soon as possible after the flowering season ends and well before the first frost. Mid-to-late September is usually best. As these evergreens are not winter-hardy, early pruning will allow fresh growth ample time to emerge so that the plant is well set with foliage before the onset of winter. I do not recommend severe pruning, and would suggest that you instead prune for maintenance. This shrub, like many evergreens, flowers on new growth, and to foster such new growth you will need to cut off branch tips. Make the cut just above the node immediately below a terminal cluster of leaves. Cut from half to two-thirds of the branches in this manner all over the bush. You can trim branches by greater lengths if you wish, and doing so will promote side shoots and bushiness with a narrower profile. Be sure to make the cut no more than halfway down the branch and to make it just below a node. Prune only a limited number of branches in this fashion. “Oleander may survive a hard prune in a sheltered spot, but be warned that it will normally take a few years to flower abundantly after a hard prune and it will also be more susceptible to cold damage,” says Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. 4) Spring Touch-Ups Soon after the shrub starts growing strongly in spring you can opt to make a couple of adjustments. If your oleander is insufficiently bushy and if you see fresh shoots sprouting upwards, you may pinch or trim them to halt such growth. This will trigger lateral growth. If the plant, be it open-ground or pot-grown, exhibits any frost-damaged branches, prune them at their attachments. If you have open-ground oleander, you might spot suckers spreading around the bush. If you do, you can dig down under the sucker and pull or tear it off, taking care not to damage the roots of the mother plant. Doing so will re-direct the plant’s energies towards flowering from early summer.
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Take Oleander Cuttings After It Has Started Putting Out Fresh Growth (Before Flowering)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Take Oleander Cuttings 1) Prepare The Pot 2) Take Your Cutting 3) Prepare The Cuttings 4) Cover Well 5) Care For Your Nerium Cutting 6) Watch For Plants Taking Root Oleander can be propagated from cuttings very easily and just as reliably, provided you do it right. This is a versatile plant that can be used for a range of different things in your garden, from hedging to ground cover. This is how you can grow oleander from cuttings: Prepare the pot in which you will place your cuttings. Take the plant cutting from an existing oleander in your garden or home. Prepare the cutting with a rooting hormone or homemade alternative (optional). Cover the pot and allow time to propagate. Care for the cutting correctly. Watch the cutting to make sure it is developing as it should. This process is explained in more detail in the six steps below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs and gardening gloves When To Propagate May-June When To Take Oleander Cuttings The best season to take oleander cuttings is after the plant has started putting out fresh growth but just before it starts flowering. This is usually around May or June. Cuttings should be taken in the morning or mid-morning. 1) Prepare The Pot Prepare a small terracotta pot that has drainage holes. Fill the pot up to about 2cm from the top with sterile potting mix and sand. I like layering the media in which to root cuttings. A lower layer of pebbles and grit, a thicker intermediate layer of organic compost and sand, and a top layer (in which the cutting will initially root) of sterile potting mix and sand will work great. “The layered compost approach mimics the conditions a plant might root into in its native habitat,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Loose and friable at the surface, a more moist mid-layer and a free draining sub-soil. It also minimises soil disturbance that might disrupt root development.” This technique allows you to keep the cutting in the original pot until it becomes a thriving little plant. Dampen the medium well. 2) Take Your Cutting On the parent bush, choose a well-grown branch from the current season’s growth – take a cutting from a mature greenwood stem. It may well be grey or brownish-green at the attachment but fully green at the tip. It should be at least 20cm long and not have any flowering buds. Using your secateurs, cut a length of 18-20cm off this branch, making the cut just under a leaf node. Retain the 3 uppermost leaves and snip off the rest along the cutting. 3) Prepare The Cuttings Dip the base of the cutting to about a quarter of its length in rooting hormone powder. If you don’t have any, I can vouch for the old-fashioned method of dipping cuttings in cinnamon powder and (herbal or clover) honey – it does the trick. Make a narrow hole with a twig or pencil in the pot’s medium and insert the cutting to about a third of its length. Pack in the medium around the cutting and water it in well. 4) Cover Well Cover the cutting with a large, clear perforated polythene bag or sheet to trap humidity. Tie or clip the bag’s opening or edges to the rim of the pot. The polythene should not touch the cutting, so you may need to insert 1-2 sticks in the pot to keep the polythene off the cutting. 5) Care For Your Nerium Cutting Put the pot indoors where it will get several hours of bright but indirect sunlight. A spot under a sunny window covered by a gauzy curtain is ideal. The cutting should not be subjected to cold temperature or undue heat, but normal room temperature is fine. Water daily but in strict moderation so that the medium is kept continuously moist. Every 2 days remove the polythene bag or sheet for about an hour, and you can remove it entirely after about 10 days. 6) Watch For Plants Taking Root The cutting will take up to 4 weeks or more before it shows external signs of having taken root. Your indicator as to whether or not all is well is from the original leaves, so if they do not wilt or wither, this is usually a good sign. Soon after you observe emerging foliage buds, very gradually decrease the frequency and quantity of water and start to expose the incipient plant to increasing periods of morning sunlight. Allow the little plant to grow and put out a few sets of full-grown leaves before you pot on.
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