Growing
Potted Cordyline Plant Care: Drainage And The Type Grown Is Key For Success
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Cordyline In Pots? Containers For Cabbage Palms Choosing Compost Sowing & Growing Potting Up & Transplanting Potted Cabbage Palm Care References Cordyline varieties come in a staggering array of sizes making them suitable for a range of locations in your garden or home. The smaller cordylines, hailing from the South Pacific, are dainty, decorative houseplants flaunting colourful and variegated leaves, whilst their bigger cousins are New Zealand natives.1 What they have in common is sword-like foliage and cool-toned or blazing shades of colour. This interesting foliage is enjoyable year-round, as both major kinds of cordylines are evergreens. Can You Grow Cordyline In Pots? It entirely depends on the variety of cordyline. For example, though C. australis and nearly all its cultivars can certainly be started in a pot, sooner or later these trees should be transplanted into open ground. On the other hand, C. fruticosa and its cultivars are ideally suited for growing in pots, including indoors, and make fantastic plants for your home displays. There are, however, a few cordyline varieties that are small trees, right at the junction of container plants and open-ground trees. C. australis ‘Torbay Dazzler’ and C. ‘Pink Stripe’ are prime examples. If there can be such a thing as an architectural potted plant, then this type of Cordyline in a large container fits the bill to perfection. This guide covers cordylines that are typically grown in containers, mainly focusing on C. fruticosa varieties. Containers For Cabbage Palms The most important thing when it comes to choosing a container is that it should have drainage holes, as Peter Lickorish, Master Horticulturist, shares: “Drainage is the key in containers, especially for plants like Cordyline, which can rot if not drained sufficiently. “Ensure water can actually get out of the holes on a flat surface, which is only possible if the bottom of the pot is contoured. “Otherwise, it can be placed on pot feet. “Terracotta pots may just have one drainage hole which, if clogged, will not function. “Place a curved object, such as a broken roof tile or curved crock, over the hole, with the concave side down. “This lets water get to the hole from either side and reduces the chance of blockages.” The container also doesn’t have to be too big compared to the size of the plant because potted cordylines grow fairly slowly and will do well even in pots that appear to be a size too small. As a rule, the height of the container should be about half the above-soil height of the plant (or spread in case of a variety with a radial or radiating form). Though I’d recommend clay and terra-cotta pots as a rule, as long as other factors are favourable, cordyline should not suffer in a pot made of synthetic material if one is chosen for aesthetic reasons. Choosing Compost Moderately fertile and moist but well-drained sums up the kind of soil best suited to cordylines. They also prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH. You can choose a commercial organic potting compost or prepare your own soil. If you opt for the latter, use a loam-based mix and amend with a generous quantity of well-rotted manure, organic compost or both. Either way, the soil should be amended with grit or perlite to facilitate drainage. Sowing & Growing Depending on the variety, cordylines can be propagated from seeds, cuttings or suckers. However, C. fruticosa and its varieties are fairly easy to propagate from cuttings. This can be done very successfully during late spring to mid-summer. They are also very widely available as potted plants. The container can be kept outdoors or indoors in warm weather, but C. fruticosa varieties are tender, so they must be brought indoors for winter. Potting Up & Transplanting Cordylines do not have to be potted up at all frequently. For one thing, they are slow-growing plants and in containers, especially when kept indoors, they grow even more slowly. Pot on when the size of the plant is clearly too big for the size of the pot, or when the roots are visible in the drainage holes, every 2-3 years. If transplanting cordyline, be sure that the particular variety is sufficiently hardy for your hardiness region. Late spring is the best time to transplant cordylines. In the UK, cordylines should be sited in a sheltered position. Depending on your location, the best spot may be full sun or partial shade, though either of the two should work well. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? There is nothing that says you may not have 3 cordylines in a wide enough planter, however, aesthetics come into play here. Just about every cordyline is, to a greater or lesser extent, an accent plant, so I’d suggest that you plant one per pot. Potted Cabbage Palm Care Cordylines do not need much in the way of care and you should simply make sure that they are planted in the right conditions. The amount of water a container cordyline needs depends on its maturity, whether it is outdoors or indoors, and the climate at the time. Younger plants need frequent watering whereas mature plants, even in containers, don’t need to be watered as often. Outdoor potted cordylines should be watered more frequently than indoor ones. They should be watered fairly regularly in summer and less frequently in winter. From mid-spring to mid-autumn, simply check the soil down to only about 1cm. If it is dry, water the plant so that the soil is made damp through to the base and do not water again until the subsoil has become dry. Container-bound cordylines should be fed with a balanced liquid fertiliser. Once a month excluding winter is a good plan. We recommend that you dilute the liquid fertiliser to 60-70% and that you pour it away from the centre of the plant when feeding. References 1. Clarke, J. (n.d.). General Information about Cordylines. The International Cordyline Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.cordyline.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=15&Itemid=28
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Discoloured Cordyline Leaves Can Signal Something Is Wrong: Here Are 6 Common Causes
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Too Much Sunlight 2) Issues With Watering 3) Excess Salt In Water 4) Incorrect Humidity Levels 5) Fungal Infections 6) Potbound Issues References Cordylines are exotic palm-like plants that are attractive and architectural. Some can thrive in mild coastal locations and in city gardens, though often need winter protection. Others make excellent, striking houseplants. Cordyline leaves turning yellow or brown is typically a sign that something is wrong with the environmental conditions or care. Discoloured leaves can often be a natural sign of ageing and some leaves are naturally yellow or brown and drop off as part of the natural shedding process. However, yellow or brown leaves can also be caused by: Too much sunlight or an abrupt change in light or temperature. An issue with watering (too much or too little). Excess salts in the water used on the plant. Humidity levels are too low. Fungal infections like root rot. Potbound conditions. Read on to understand each of these issues in more detail: 1) Too Much Sunlight Cordyline leaves can turn yellow or brown if they suddenly receive too much direct sunlight, or if there is a sudden and dramatic change in temperature. “The former can effectively bleach the colour in some of the more vibrantly pigmented leaves,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer in Horticulture. The latter is most likely to occur when plants grow inside over winter and are moved outdoors. 2) Issues With Watering Cordyline leaves changing hue can also often be a sign that there is a problem with watering. Cordyline leaves can turn yellow around the edges when overwatering or waterlogged conditions have occurred. Whole leaves can also turn yellow or brown when the plant has not been watered enough, or during drought conditions. As the leaves are so tough, they will not wilt in the way many other plants do. 3) Excess Salt In Water Another issue with watering could be that tap water with excess salts has been used to water the plant. This can produce scorch-like damage on leaves. Watering with rainwater wherever possible is always best, but tap water can also be left out before watering for excess salts to evaporate. 4) Incorrect Humidity Levels A tender cordyline grown as a houseplant inside may often suffer due to low humidity levels, which is another issue that can cause leaves to discolour and turn yellow or brown. Homes that are centrally heated can be very dry, so misting your plants to create the more humid conditions that these plants enjoy can be a good idea. 5) Fungal Infections Unfortunately, yellow leaves can also indicate a fungal infection. Yellow splotches on the leaves could be a fungal leaf problem, and yellow leaves from the base of the plant could indicate that a root or stem rot has impacted the ability of water to reach the rest of the plant. Fusarium root rot is an unfortunate possibility, especially if waterlogged conditions have prevailed.1 6) Potbound Issues Yellow leaves on cordylines might also be a sign that the plant has become potbound. It may be time to think about moving your plant into a larger container, so pot up your plant to see whether this allows it to recover if it seems like it has outgrown its current position. References 1. Having issues with your Cordylines? Answered Problems & FAQ. (2023, April 21). Exotic Plants Online. Retrieved May 9, 2023, from https://www.exoticplantsonline.co.uk/blogs/having-issues-with-your-cordylines-answered-problems-faq/
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Experiment With These 5 Cordyline Propagation Methods Says Master Horticulturist
IN THIS GUIDE 1) From Suckers 2) Pruning Stem Sections 3) Germinating Seeds 4) Dividing The Plant 5) By Cuttings Cordyline can be propagated by multiple methods without much trouble at all. Different methods are more suitable for different varieties of cordyline, but the methods by which most cordylines can be propagated are: From suckers Pruning stem sections Growing from seed (some varieties) Dividing the plant (some varieties) Taking cuttings (some varieties) “During the main growing season, the hardier cordylines, such as Cordyline australis, are fast-growing,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “This enables a variety of propagation techniques to be experimented with. “However, remember that young plants are vulnerable to winter cold so many need fleecing over winter or moving indoors if potted.” I would say that suckers, as an easy, nature-made way of propagating cordyline, is the first choice – with stem sections or cuttings a second preference. No matter which method you use, I would recommend that you wear gardening gloves. Each of these five methods is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves; secateurs; planting materials When To Propagate Late spring to early summer 1) From Suckers Though cordylines produce suckers themselves, some varieties bear more than others, you can actually stimulate a plant to put out suckers, assuming it is a suckering variety. So, if you want your cordyline to sucker, you can help it along by pruning out some of the top growth and stimulating shoots lower down. Suckers are small offshoots at the base of the plant that emerge very close to the main stem. To propagate by sucker, avoid new little suckers that are just shooting up or that are just putting out fresh leaves. Allow these to grow and develop their foliage until it looks like a small, young plant. You can propagate cordyline from mature suckers in late spring or early summer. Prepare a container with an appropriate free-draining medium in which to pot the sucker. Loosen and pull away the soil between and along the mother plant and sucker, taking care not to damage the roots or the sucker itself. You will see that the sucker is connected to the mother plant by what looks like a very short subsoil branch. The sucker will have its own developing root system, so gently dig down to expose its roots. Using a sharp sterilised knife, cleanly cut through the subsoil branch, taking care to keep the roots intact. Dust each of the severed sections with an anti-fungicide powder or spray them with a stimulating disinfectant solution. Re-pot the sucker into the container, taking care to ensure that the soil level does not come up any higher on the stem than it did originally. Firm up the soil around the roots and give the new plant a good watering in its new home. 2) Pruning Stem Sections Cordylines can be propagated by stem sections very reliably during the period from late spring to early summer. Prepare a pot with potting mix, sand, and perlite and then thoroughly dampen this medium. On the donor plant, choose a cane that is of intermediate or mature age; such a cane will be brownish and bare near the attachment and will be greenish and may have leaves at the distal or upper end. Prune the cane using sterilised secateurs. Using the secateurs or a sterilised sharp knife, cut out a 5-6cm section from the middle of this cane, making sure the section has leaf nodes. On more mature plants, woody stem sections can be used, but these are slower to root and shoot. Dip the ends of this section in fungicide powder or cinnamon and honey. Insert the section in the pot and nudge it downwards so that half of the stem section’s length is inside the medium and half above. Keep the pot indoors in a warm spot where it gets indirect sunlight and give it a sprinkling of water every 2 days so that the soil is kept continuously moist. After 4-8 weeks you should see green shoots sprouting. After they appear, increase the plant’s exposure to light and gradually increase the amount of water it gets while gradually decreasing the frequency. When it has become a young plant, pot on into an appropriately-sized container with suitable compost. 3) Germinating Seeds Cordyline seeds may be collected from the plant’s tiny flowers in summer and are also easily found at nurseries. These vigorous seeds can be sown immediately after being collected. Of course, you may choose to dry them, put them in an envelope and store them in the fridge’s crisper. Growing cordylines from seed is a relatively slow process, and until mature, they are vulnerable to winter cold. Give the seeds an early start by sowing them in a tray of free-draining compost indoors, if you are keen to get going during the autumn and winter months. Lightly cover the seeds with compost, and germination is usually fairly fast. Transplant them into individual pots once they are just over 5cm tall and harden them off gradually from mid to late spring, until moving them outdoors completely. Even hardier species, such as Cordyline australis, will still need winter protection, so bring them undercover for their first winter. If sowing in an unheated greenhouse or outdoors into seed trays, the process is the same, except be sure to sow them well after the last frost when the weather shows a warming trend. Use a moderately fertile sand or loam-based growing medium. To sow outdoors in the ground, amend the soil with well-rotted manure or organic compost and for container cultivation, use potting compost and sand. Push seeds to about 2-3mm below the surface or put them on the surface and just barely cover the seeds with the growing medium. Keep them continuously moist until they germinate, which will be in 4-6 weeks. 4) Dividing The Plant Cordyline trees can grow quite tall and gangly. Many C. australis varieties develop a mass of sword-shaped foliage on top of slim trunks, around 5-8cm in diameter. From this type of mature plant, with multiple main stems that are less than 1.5m, you can propagate several new cordylines. The number you can propagate will depend on the height of the shrub, the number of stems and your needs. Attempt this type of propagation well after the last frost and when the weather has warmed up. Fork around the base of the plant to expose the joint between trunk and roots. Using a sharp pruning saw, cut down vertically through the base of the plant to remove stems, each with its own roots. You may find the stems are too tightly packed to divide or all emerge from one growing point, in which case, do not attempt this method. Ensure that each stem is no more than 60cm high unless there is a strong root network, so trim top growth accordingly. If large numbers of leaves remain, pull or slice off the lower leaves to reduce stress on the limited roots. Prepare the appropriate number of planting spots outdoors with the right type of free-draining soil by forking and adding some organic matter such as leaf mould, and then thoroughly dampen and ready the planting holes. Plant each division into a planting hole and firm soil up the original soil mark on the stem and water generously. Apply a judicious quantity of organic fertiliser and do so again after about 3 weeks. Until the divisions establish and you see new shoots emerging, keep watering regularly, gradually reducing the frequency and quantity. 5) By Cuttings In late spring, prepare a pot with a medium of potting mix and sand or perlite. From the donor C. fruticosa, choose a young branch that is green at its outer length and has some leaves. Using a pair of sterilised secateurs, cut this branch 12-15cm, measuring from its tip, from just underneath or inwards of a leaf node. Snip off all the leaves except for the uppermost 2 or 3 and then dip the base of the cutting into rooting hormone powder. Make a hole in the soil in the pot and insert the cutting, watering it in well afterwards. Keep the pot in a warm spot indoors where it gets bright but indirect sunlight. You can help matters by tying a clear polythene bag around the pot to conserve humidity. Perforate the bag first and make sure it does not touch the cutting, removing it for an hour or so every couple of days. The cutting should be watered moderately daily or every other day to keep the soil continuously moist. The cutting should root in anything from 4-8 weeks. As long as the original leaves look healthy and turgid, you can be assured that something good is happening below the soil!
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Without Pruning, Raspberry Plants Become Crowded And Diseased - Follow These Steps
IN THIS GUIDE Pruning Summer Fruiting Varieties Pruning Autumn Varieties Raspberries are delicious and are also very easy to grow in many UK gardens. These delicious soft fruits are one of my favourites and one I would definitely recommend if you are new to growing soft fruits. They won’t take up a lot of your time when growing but will still provide abundant yields, and there are a number of different varieties to choose from. One job that you do need to think about when growing raspberries is pruning. “Without correct pruning, plants simply do not have the air-flow and light they need to crop well,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “Eventually, your raspberry plant will be so crowded with unproductive canes, all acting as an entry point for disease, that there simply won’t be room for those with fruiting potential to grow.” However, learning how to prune raspberries is simple as long as you know which type of raspberries you are growing. The key thing to determine when trying to work out how to prune raspberries is whether you are growing summer or autumn fruiting types. Though autumn fruiters may yield in late summer, they grow differently – hence why plants are categorised as summer or autumn fruiting. The two categories your raspberries fall into will dictate the pruning process. Pruning Summer Fruiting Varieties When To Prune These raspberries, which bear fruit on the growth of the previous year, are pruned after the berries have been harvested. The floricanes, those stems which have flowered and fruited, are removed once they begin to die back. You can see the difference between these and this year’s fresh green growth. If you wish to prune to restrict height, then this should be done in late winter, around February. Sometimes, you may also wish to prune out excess or unwanted primocanes (new canes) in early spring. How To Prune Summer Fruiting Varieties The main thing to remember when pruning these raspberries is that you only want to remove ones that have already fruited (floricanes) and not the primocanes. Remember, the canes that grew this year will turn into floricanes and bear raspberries next year. If you prune these out then you will deprive yourself of next year’s fruits. The only time that you may wish to get rid of some primocanes is if your raspberry patch or row has become too congested. In that case, you may wish to thin out some of these. As mentioned above, a good time to thin these out is in early spring, but don’t thin out primocanes until the plant is at least 3 years old, as doing so may reduce yield and vigour too excessively. To identify the floricanes to remove, look for the brown or greyish colour of the stems and for those that have a more brittle texture. This will help to provide a clear contrast with the pliable green primocanes. Use a pair of clean, sharp shears or secateurs to cut the floricanes as close to ground level as possible. Leave the green canes to grow on and tie these into your support structure if there is one in place. If you wish to remove primocanes, you can also cut these off at ground level. If you decide that you would like to restrict the height of the raspberries in February so they don’t outgrow their support, simply trim off the tops of the canes to the required height. You should aim for around 10cm above the top of their support structure or to a height that you personally can comfortably reach. Pruning Autumn Varieties When To Prune Raspberries that produce berries on this season’s growth, called primocanes, are best pruned in late winter. I typically carry out this job in February. “I do make sure I have gloves on for pruning raspberries, as their stems are scratchy,” says Peter. Pruning in late winter means that over the winter months, the plants should have stored plenty of carbohydrates in their roots, which leads to healthy growth the following year. If you opt for double cropping (see below), then you may undertake additional pruning in the summer. However, this is not an option that I would necessarily recommend. How To Prune Autumn Varieties When you prune these types of raspberries, things are generally very simple. First of all, when planting out new bare-root raspberries over the winter months, prune all canes to within 25cm of the ground. Usually, for the annual prune, all you need to do is cut off all the canes at ground level. Double Cropping However, with some specific raspberry cultivars, you can prune a little differently in order to aim to achieve a second harvest in one year – a technique known as double cropping. If you are aiming for double cropping, rather than cutting off all the canes at ground level, you will select the strongest 6-8 canes and leave those canes at around 1m in height, before cutting off all the others to ground level. Double cropping is said to be useful for those who do not have enough space to grow both summer and autumn fruiting raspberries in their gardens. When you prune in this way, you can get a small earlier crop as well as your main harvest. However, it is important to note that this treatment only works with some raspberries of this type and not with all. Also, splitting the harvest can reduce the quality of the fruits, which is why I would always recommend growing both types of raspberry mentioned in this guide rather than trying to get a double crop from autumn fruiting raspberry varieties. However, if you do decide to opt for this pruning strategy, the canes that you left at 1m in height should be cut down to ground level straight after they finish fruiting in the summer. A simple pruning regime for your raspberries will help make sure that you get a great raspberry crop year after year.
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Here's How You Can Propagate Lilac Through Suckers, Cuttings Or Layering
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Propagating From Suckers 2) Propagating From Cuttings 3) Propagating Through Layering Lilac shrubs can often be a delightful choice for a garden. There are lilacs that can grow into majestic specimens in larger gardens and some smaller and slower-growing varieties that do well in containers or small spaces. If you have a lilac you love, you may well be interested in propagating your plant to obtain further shrubs for your space. There are 3 main ways to propagate lilac: Through suckers Through softwood cuttings Through layering The first of these options is not always possible but is by far the easiest option if it is. However, both of the other options are also relatively simple and you do not need to be an experienced gardener to learn how to propagate a lilac shrub in your garden. Read on to find out more about obtaining new lilac plants from an existing one in each of these ways. Difficulty Easy / Medium Equipment Required Secateurs and a spade 1) Propagating From Suckers Many lilacs will freely produce suckers (young plants) around the base of an existing shrub. Where suckers are produced, you can simply dig up these young shoots that emerge around the base with some roots still attached, then replant these elsewhere in your garden. This is by far the easiest way to produce new lilac plants, but not all lilacs will produce suckers. If your lilac has not freely suckered, you will have to try one of the methods below if you would like to propagate your existing shrub. 2) Propagating From Cuttings Softwood cuttings are taken between March and August. They are cuttings taken from the current season’s growth and can often take root and grow into new plants relatively rapidly. To propagate lilac from softwood cuttings: Remove fresh shoots from the lilac shrub, cutting just above a leaf on the parent lilac plant. Cut just below a leaf node to leave a cutting around 10cm long and remove the leaves from the bottom half. If the leaves are on the larger side, cut each remaining leaf in half to reduce their surface area. This minimises water loss from the cutting. Dip the end of the cutting in hormone rooting powder to increase chances of successful rooting if you wish. Place the cuttings around the edges of 7cm pots of moist cuttings compost so that the lowest leaves are just above the surface of the growing medium. Cover the cuttings to retain moisture and place them in a warm position out of direct sunshine to root. 3) Propagating Through Layering The other option is to propagate a lilac shrub by layering. This involves gently wounding a branch and bending this down so that it comes into contact with the soil. This branch can be pegged down to hold it in place and should eventually root where the stem is buried in the soil. “When layering, I try to peg down 3-5 pliable branches at about pencil width to make sure that at least one or two will take,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I find that a tent peg is perfect for holding the branches down and I leave it in place for at least 6-12 months until well-rooted.” To improve the chances of success, where you have wounded the stem, you can apply some rooting hormone, though this is not essential. You should make sure that the area is watered well during dry spells since the soil should not be allowed to dry out entirely. However, you should also make sure that the area does not become waterlogged and excess water can drain away freely. The layered stem should have rooted within a year or so, and once it has rooted successfully, it can be severed from the parent place and moved elsewhere as an independent plant.
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Here's Why David Gressley Is In Favour Of Deadheading Spent Lilac Blooms
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Deadhead Lilac? When To Deadhead Lilac Deadheading Guidelines Lilac can be a wonderfully low-maintenance plant to grow in many gardens. Though not native, it can be a boon for native wildlife, and when in bloom, many species and cultivars can fill your space with a delightful scent and will look lovely too. One question that you might have is whether you need to deadhead lilac, and if so, how you should do so. I’ve shared all you need to know about deadheading lilacs in the rest of this guide: Do You Need To Deadhead Lilac? Syringa vulgaris, common lilac, does not really need to be deadheaded at all, and whether you do so or not will largely come down to a matter of personal preference. It will depend on whether you are the type of gardener who likes to let nature take the reins or someone who wishes to keep everything neater and more under control. Some people believe that deadheading lilac will lead to better blooming the following year, but this is simply not the case. Whether you deadhead or not, flowering the following year will not be affected, so deadheading is usually for your own benefit, rather than for the plant. Some people simply prefer not to look at the brown flower heads once they have faded and remove them for aesthetic reasons. “Whether you deadhead or don’t is partly down to the temperament of the gardener but also to the style of the planting,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For example, a formal planting will benefit from deadheading whilst it might detract from a naturalistic planting.” “I am in favour of deadheading spent lilac blooms if they are not being hybridised for their seed,” says David Gressley, the Vice President of the US division of the International Lilac Society. “The benefit of deadheading lilacs is purely aesthetic unless a plant is under stress, which will prevent the expenditure of plant energy into seed production that will otherwise contribute to plant defence and its energy reserves.” As David touches on, there are only a couple of times when you might wish to deadhead for more than aesthetic reasons. Most lilacs bloom once, for a short period in late spring or early summer each year, but a few cultivars can bloom a second time in late summer or early autumn. Deadheading a repeat flowering lilac can be beneficial because it can make sure that the plant puts its energy into producing more flowers in the current season rather than going to seed. With some lilacs, you might also like to deadhead as part of more general pruning, to reduce the size of your shrub or rejuvenate an older plant without losing flowers next year. When To Deadhead Lilac If you do decide to deadhead lilac, wait until the flowering panicles have turned brown and then cut them off the plant. This will typically be in July for most lilacs. Deadheading Guidelines If you are deadheading for aesthetic reasons or to encourage repeat blooming on certain specific lilac cultivars, then you can simply snip off the flowering panicles with a pair of clean, sharp secateurs. If you wish to undertake some pruning at the same time to reduce the size of the plant or rejuvenate an older shrub, you can, instead of just cutting off the stems below the flowers, cut further down at the base of the branches. As you can tell from the above, this is a simple job that is not always necessary, though easily accomplished when it is.
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6 Vibrant Pink Salvias Chosen By Award-Wining Garden Designers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) S. ‘Wendy’s Wish’ 2) S. ‘Mulberry Jam’ 3) S. nemorosa ‘Sensation Rose’ 4) S. ‘Kisses and Wishes’ 5) S. greggii ‘Icing Sugar’ 6) S. greggii ‘Strawberries and Cream’ Salvia is a showy plant that produces spikes of gorgeous flowers that are tubular in shape, and their square stems and velvety leaves make them instantly recognisable. “Salvias are one of my favourite late summer flowering perennials,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “They can often flower well into early autumn and decline gracefully as mellow autumn foliage starts to appear and fall. A great resource for late pollinators and great to look at for us too!” If you’re interested in growing this flower in your garden, then you’ve got a wide variety of colours to choose from, with pink being among the most popular. “I love salvias because they are so easy to grow,” shares Garden Designer Isabelle Palmer. “They came up at the beginning of spring and are still there in my borders now. There are so many different types too and they are a real study and beautiful plant to grow.” In this article, we will take a look at some of our favourite pink salvia varieties to help you add a touch of romance to your garden. “I’m also absolutely mad for salvias and I have been collecting these plants for a while,” shares Designer Lachlan Rae. “There’s one that I’ve got at the moment which I love called Salvia involucrata ‘Boutin’ which is a hybrid and is absolutely fantastic.” All of these varieties flower in summer and autumn and should be growing in chalk, loam or sand-based soil. 1) S. ‘Wendy’s Wish’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘Wendy’s wish’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This herbaceous perennial produces deep pink flowers from midsummer to autumn. This variety of salvia has red stems, fragrant olive-coloured leaves and grows to around 1m in height. ‘Wendy’s Wish’ will do its best in full sun or dappled shade in a sheltered spot that has humus-rich, well-drained soil. In springtime, I’d recommend adding a 5-10cm layer of mulch around the base of the plant to help it thrive. This species of salvia doesn’t require any pruning but you can remove fading flower stems to encourage prolonged blooms. 2) S. ‘Mulberry Jam’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘mulberry jam’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This bushy and compact variety of salvia grows to around 1.2m in height and sports pink blooms from summer to autumn. The leaves are small and scented and their green hue really makes the flowers pop. ‘Mulberry Jam’ is tolerant of drought but will grow best in full sun with moist, well-drained and moderately fertile soil. You will want to overwinter these plants, ideally in a greenhouse, away from the grips of frost. 3) S. nemorosa ‘Sensation Rose’ COMMON NAME(S): Balkan clary ‘sensation rose’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This pretty, pink salvia is a bushy, upright perennial with greyish-green leaves and tightly packed spikes of hooded, pale-pink blooms. This variety grows up to 1m tall and takes around 2-5 years to reach full height. While the ‘Sensation Rose’ can tolerate partial shade, you will see the best results by planting it in full sun and in moist, light, humus-rich and well-drained soil. 4) S. ‘Kisses and Wishes’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘kisses and wishes’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This adorably named species of salvia is an upright, woody perennial that will usually grow to around 75cm in height. It sports delicate, tubular, pale-pink flowers with dark pink streaks that bloom from early summer to late autumn. To get the most out of your ‘Kisses and Wishes’ salvia, you will want to plant them in a warm, sheltered spot, with lots of sun and moist, well-drained, humus-rich soil. As autumn draws to a close, you can either leave this plant where it is and treat it as an annual or overwinter it in a greenhouse. 5) S. greggii ‘Icing Sugar’ COMMON NAME(S): autumn sage ‘icing sugar’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This bushy variety of salvia grows to around 65-70cm in height and produces terminal racemes of bi-coloured bright pink and purple blooms which blossom from summer to autumn. ‘Icing Sugar’ requires light, fertile soil that is well-drained in a sheltered spot. It will overwinter if provided with full sun and soil that drains well. Rosemary beetles, leafhoppers and slugs and snails are quite partial to the new, young growth of this plant, so keep a watchful eye on it and use organic solutions if necessary. 6) S. greggii ‘Strawberries and Cream’ COMMON NAME(S): autumn sage ‘strawberries and cream’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This delicious-looking salvia is a shrub variety and grows to around 60-75cm in height. It has pleasantly scented, ovate green leaves and little 1.5cm wide flowers which bloom in pale pink, dark pink and cream from summer to autumn. Not only does ‘Strawberry and Cream’ salvia sound delicious, but they are actually used in culinary pursuits as a herb. This species of salvia needs plenty of shelter from cold, drying winds and prefers full sun. Plant it in light, well-drained soil. These are just some of our favourite pink salvia plants to inspire you – in such a varied genus there are many more available!
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Grow Pittosporum ‘Cheesewood’ As Prized Specimen Shrubs Or Formal Hedgerows
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Pittosporum Pittosporum Plant Care References Pittosporums or ‘Cheesewood’ are evergreen shrubs or hedgerow plants which come in a wide range of shapes and sizes. These useful evergreen shrubs are prized for their glossy evergreen leaves and can make great specimen shrubs, simple topiary plants, or formal hedgerows. Although they are not suitable for all UK gardens, where the conditions are right, they can be a highly attractive addition. Overview Botanical Name Pittosporum Common Name Cheesewood Plant Type Shrub Native Area Australia, East Asia and parts of Africa Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen When To Plant May-September When To Prune May-August Pittosporum is a genus of around 200 species found throughout Australasia, Oceania, eastern Asia and parts of Africa.1 They are also commonly grown in gardens throughout subtropical and temperate zones, though some are also grown as bonsai plants indoors. Common Varieties When choosing a pittosporum to grow in your garden, the size to which it will eventually grow is one of the key considerations. Pittosporums are usefully grouped into smaller compact shrubs which grow 1-2m tall, and medium to large shrubs. Some compact pittosporum, which are good for small borders, low hedges or containers, are: P. tenuifolium ‘Silver Queen’ P. tenuifolium ‘Country Park Dwarf’ P. tenuifolium ‘French Lace’ P. tenuifolium ‘Gold Ball’ P. tenuifolium ‘Irene Paterson’ P. tenuifolium ‘Silver Queen’ Some larger pittosporums for larger borders or higher hedging include: P. tenuifolium ‘Elizabeth’ P. tenuifolium ‘Abbotsbury Gold’ P. tenuifolium ‘Elizabeth’ P. tenuifolium ‘Oliver Twist’ P. tenuifolium ‘Wendle Channon’ How To Grow Pittosporum If you know someone with a pittosporum you admire in their garden, you could consider collecting the sticky seeds when the capsules break open, cleaning away the sticky coating and sowing in pots or trays of seed compost at 12-15°C. However, it is worth noting that the plants which grow from these seeds may not look the same as the plant from which the seeds came, especially if you are dealing with a variety that has coloured or variegated leaves. If you do decide to persist, you will also have to be patient, as germination will take a couple of months. Most people will purchase plants to place in their gardens, but it should be noted that taking cuttings is another option for propagation. We’ll talk about propagating pittosporum from cuttings a little later in this guide. Pittosporum Plant Care Pittosporum can be relatively easy to care for, but it is important to understand the conditions they require and to place them in a suitable spot. Overwintering Most pittosporums are H4 hardy. However, others, such as P. tobira, are conservatory plants, which must be grown inside over winter – though they may be able to go out over the summer months. Aspect Pittosporum will do best in a sheltered position in full sun or light shade. It is important to make sure that the plants are protected from harsh, cold winds and not placed in frost pockets. Variegated varieties will keep their colour best in a site which is as sunny as possible. Soil Requirements Pittosporums need well-drained soil, so any soil type which does not become too waterlogged can be suitable. Compact cultivars grown in containers should be grown in a suitable free-draining medium and the container should have good drainage. Make sure the soil or growing medium is rich in organic matter for moisture retention. Pruning Pittosporum should be pruned in mid-spring for single specimen shrubs. Aim to prune out vigorous shoots which sprout out from the outline of the foliage, and try to develop a strong central stem and an enhancement of the plant’s natural shape. For hedges and topiary shapes, prune between the middle of spring and late summer. Give the plants 2-3 cuttings during the growing season, pruning for the last time by the end of August. Propagating Pittosporum can be somewhat reluctant to root, so using a rooting hormone is recommended to improve rooting results. The best option is to take semi-ripe cuttings in the late summer or early autumn. The cuttings should be around 6-8cm long and should be placed in pots filled with a suitably moist (yet free-draining) medium in a cool but frost-free spot – until they are planted out the following year. Young shoots can also be layered in spring, though this is typically a more difficult propagation method. Common Problems Pittosporum is usually relatively trouble-free if grown in the right spot and cared for correctly. Powdery mildew may affect the foliage but won’t usually need to be controlled. “Pittosporums can be prone to frost damage, so I advise not planting them in frost pockets or exposed conditions,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “During the first autumn or winter and late spring frosts, I use horticultural fleece to protect young plants and those grown in pots.” Plants grown indoors may be affected by common issues like red spider mites and scale insects. References 1. Cheesewoods (Genus Pittosporum). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/51597-Pittosporum
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18 Cordyline Types - 'Do You Want A Lower-Growing Conical Plant Or A Tree Shape?'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) C. australis 2) C. indivisa 3) C. australis ‘Atropurpurea’ 4) C. australis ‘Red Star’ 5) C. australis ‘Torbay Dazzler’ 6) C. australis ‘Albertii’ 7) C. ‘Southern Splendour’ 8) C. australis ‘Red Sensation’ 9) C. fruticosa ‘Red Edge’ 10) C. ‘Cha Cha’ 11) C. fruticosa ‘Kiwi’ 12) C. fruticosa ‘New Guinea Black’ 13) C. fruticosa ‘Amabilis’ 14) C. fruticosa ‘Rumba’ 15) C. fruticosa ‘Firebrand’ 16) C. banksii ‘Electric Pink’ 17) C. petiolaris 18) C. congesta References Though cordylines are denizens of temperate and subtropical locales, they are very much at home in many regions of the UK where they are valued for their richly-hued evergreen foliage. Most cordylines come in cool tones and restrained hues and even the reds and purples are of bronzy or slate shades rather than vivid ones. Where the outdoor cordylines are concerned, these evergreens, whose coloured sword-shaped leaves are the main attraction, produce lots of tiny flowers in blush white, cream, or yellow. Cordyline houseplants, more reserved and more foliage-centric, do not produce flowers. However, the random variegation, gradations, and colour shifts of their leaves more than compensate. “When choosing a Cordyline, you should first decide whether you would like to grow it solely outdoors, outdoors over the summer months or as a houseplant,” says Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer in Horticulture. “Cordyline fruticosa is a houseplant species, not suited to planting outdoors, and many of the more brightly coloured Cordylines of other species prefer being brought indoors over winter. “In my experience, the species C. australis is the hardiest. “The more hardy varieties also tend to produce a solid trunk below the foliage, whereas I find this happens less often or more slowly with coloured leaf cultivars, so think about your long-term hopes for the plant. “Consider whether you want a lower-growing conical plant or a tree shape.” Underneath we introduce eighteen amazing cordyline varieties that are evenly split between the larger varieties that are effectively small trees and the smaller ones that make vibrant houseplants. 1) C. australis COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm FOLIAGE: green FLOWERS: cream and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread The species plant, Cordyline australis is not a glamour cultivar but it is the original model. It can attain the greatest heights, up to 6m and more, though members in the wild have grown considerably taller, and it is also hardier than its rating of H3 suggests. The sword-shaped leaves are stiff and erect and are a lovely shade of sea green. This tree has a proper trunk instead of a stem and its leaves could be mistaken for green scimitars. In summer, the species produces dense sprays of tiny white flowers, which bees adore. Back home in New Zealand, it has long been of much cultural significance to the indigenous Maori People.1 The Cabbage Tree and its cultivars are grown throughout Europe. 2) C. indivisa COMMON NAME(S): mountain cabbage tree FOLIAGE: blue and green FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread C. indivisa can reach a height of nearly 4m. The mountain cabbage tree’s foliage is very special in its own right as though the leaves are a solid tone, that tone is a distinctly bluish hue of green. Also, its sword-shaped leaves are relatively broad, measuring 20-30cm, and display a prominent dusky midrib. It produces clusters of tiny white flowers followed by purple berries. 3) C. australis ‘Atropurpurea’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘atropurpurea’ FOLIAGE: bronze and purple FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread One of the more architectural varieties because of its size and shades, ‘Atropurpurea’ can reach heights of 6m and more. Many of its stiff, sword-shaped leaves are yellowish-green, but quite a number are of a purplish bronze tone, for they undergo colour shifts as they age and as the seasons change. It is used as an architectural plant both outdoors and indoors; as a houseplant, it is pruned whereas outdoors it can be allowed to attain its natural height near walls or structures. It produces tiny creamy flowers in the summer. 4) C. australis ‘Red Star’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘red star’ FOLIAGE: cream, red and bronze FLOWERS: cream and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread One of the not-so-big C. australis cultivars, ‘Red Star’ can reach a height of 3m but can be kept sufficiently compact when grown in a container. It is also an excellent choice for an elegantly understated border. That’s because its narrow strap-like leaves fan out and are of a dull, coppery red colour that is accented by yellow and cream stripes and tips. 5) C. australis ‘Torbay Dazzler’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘torbay dazzler’ FOLIAGE: green and white SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread The aptly-named ‘Torbay Dazzler’ is just that. It grows to only about 3m with a relatively narrow spread. The 60cm leaves are also similarly narrow, making it among the most ribbony of cordylines. These lanky ribbons are dazzlingly variegated and longitudinally striped. The cool green middle is centred with a line of rust-red and bordered by white and cream. 6) C. australis ‘Albertii’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘albertii’ FOLIAGE: green, yellow and pink FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread A larger model, ‘Albertii’ can eventually hit 6m or so and develop a proper trunk. It may also produce proper branches that grow from scimitar-like narrow leaves that are densely packed and feature attractive, relatively thick yellow edging. Emerging leaves add further colour as they have a pinkish flush. Mature trees bear tiny white flowers in summer. 7) C. ‘Southern Splendour’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘southern splendour’ FOLIAGE: pink and green FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread An atypical C. australis, ‘Southern Splendour’ is not so much cool as it is vibrant and warm, at least relatively speaking. Eventually forming a little tree of around 3m, this cultivar’s ribbony arcing leaves have a dusky green base with fine lengthwise stripes and lines in pink-red, slate red, cream and orange. This cultivar makes a terrific container specimen. 8) C. australis ‘Red Sensation’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘red sensation’ FOLIAGE: bronze FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread One of the largest options, ‘Red Sensation’ rises to 6m and can grow taller. It rarely branches out, preferring to shoot upwards. Its stiff, sword-shaped leaves are a very deep bronzy-purple. In summer, there is floral interest as this cultivar bears copious quantities of tiny cream-coloured flowers in thick clusters. 9) C. fruticosa ‘Red Edge’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘red edge’ FOLIAGE: red, white and green SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing a touch over 1m tall, ‘Red Edge’ makes a wonderful houseplant, but is not suited to life outdoors. The elliptical-to-lanceolate leaves are a classic leafy green with fine white striping and red bordering and are often quite thick. The particular shade of red is very appealing and bright, yet soft. 10) C. ‘Cha Cha’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘cha cha’ FOLIAGE: green, bronze and cream SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Though it does not descend from C. fruticosa, ‘Cha Cha’ is perfect for a houseplant or patio plant, reaching up to 2m in height. The lily-like leaves are long and narrow and the outer ones arc and sway very appealingly. Young leaves have a bronze tone while mature leaves are brilliantly variegated in stripes of cool green and bright yellow. 11) C. fruticosa ‘Kiwi’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘kiwi’ FOLIAGE: green, pink and yellow SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Rising to just over 1m and a popular houseplant, ‘Kiwi’ is an evergreen with a laid-back charm. That’s because its lanceolate leaves are in shades of light and bright green, merging and melding with pastel and bright yellows with a touch of pink at the margins. For me, this is the most gentle and soothing choice if that is what you want for your indoor spaces. 12) C. fruticosa ‘New Guinea Black’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘new guinea black’ FOLIAGE: black and purple SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Among the most striking of the cordyline houseplants, ‘New Guinea Black’ is a serious decor play. That’s because this cultivar has a relatively narrow spread and its lanceolate foliage is essentially black, whilst the leaves display gradations of forest green, deep purple, and black. 13) C. fruticosa ‘Amabilis’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘amabilis’ FOLIAGE: bronze, white and pink SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Also growing to a little over 1m, what makes ‘Amabilis’ a bit different is its relatively broader leaves, which appear as if they have been painted, for on the very light green background one sees streaks, strokes, and daubs of pinkish red in shades from pastel to bright. Ideal for an artist’s studio or creative space! 14) C. fruticosa ‘Rumba’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘rumba’ FOLIAGE: green, red and pink SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread One of the newer cultivars, ‘Rumba’ is one of the bushier varieties and has abundant lanceolate foliage. The colour is an unusually deep and smoky green set off with rust-red tones and flushes. The final touch is a bright pink edge running around the leaves and often extending to their stalks. 15) C. fruticosa ‘Firebrand’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘firebrand’ FOLIAGE: pink and purple SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Probably taller than the other cultivars and able to rise to 2m with a bushy habit, ‘Firebrand’ breaks the cool mould and is a comparatively intense option. The lanceolate foliage is of a wonderfully deep, smoky purple maroon on the older leaves while the newer leaves are a popping shade of burgundy. 16) C. banksii ‘Electric Pink’ COMMON NAME(S): cabbage palm ‘electric pink’ FOLIAGE: gold and pink SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Forming clumps and tufts of long and narrow strap-like arcing leaves, ‘Electric Pink’ lives up to its name and is surely an outlier among the smaller cordylines because of its vivid hues. Leaves are a deep smoky reddish-green along the centre but are truly an electric shade of red-pink along the edges, as are the newer leaves. This variety attains a height of about 1.5m. Lesser-known cordyline plants worth a look are: 17) C. petiolaris 18) C. congesta References 1. Part VIII — The Genus Cordyline. (n.d.). Maori Agriculture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly/tei-BesAgri-t1-body-d8.html
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