Growing
No Herb Garden Would Be Complete Without Thyme: Prime For Pollinators (And The Kitchen)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Thyme? Thyme Varieties How To Grow Thyme Thyme Plant Care References Herb gardens have become increasingly popular over the last few years and no herb garden would be complete without thyme. With its heavenly, aromatic aroma and attractive foliage, this herb adds an impactful flavour to all kinds of dishes and provides interest, structure and texture to your garden all year round. Thyme also produces tiny tubular flowers which come in shades of pink, purple and white. These flowers are a magnet to wildlife and are particularly loved by bees and butterflies and other essential pollinators. “I grow Thyme for use in the kitchen but I would grow it just a plant for pollinators,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “When in flower, the plants are smothered in pollinators and are easy to grow and care for herbs, so are ideal if you only have space for pots or a balcony.” The best news is that thyme is exceptionally easy to grow and because it can be grown both in garden beds or in containers, it is a wonderful addition to any garden, no matter the size. Overview Botanical Name Thymus Common Name(s) Thyme Plant Type Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Aromatic grey-green leaves Flowers Small white or pink flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July Thyme is one of the most commonly used herbs in the world. It is a low-growing, woody perennial which thrives in warm, dry conditions. It can be planted at almost any time of year and is ready for harvest after only a few months. It will then grow back year after year, making it one rewarding little plant. Why Grow Thyme? Thyme has so many benefits – let’s dive a little deeper into why it’s one of the most popular plants and why you shouldn’t miss out: Low Maintenance – Not only is thyme easy to grow, but it’s also super easy to care for. Harvesting it regularly keeps it naturally pruned and, at most, you can just cut the woody stem back by half in autumn. Tastes Terrific – As mentioned, thyme is one of the most popular herbs for culinary use and is a vital ingredient for Herbes de Provence. It can be used in dishes containing, fish, chicken and vegetables and is a delicious addition to soup and stews. Pollinator Friendly – It’s not just bees and butterflies that adore thyme; this flowering herb is also extremely attractive to lacewings looking for a safe habitat to lay their eggs. Lacewing larvae are formidable predators to aphids, whiteflies, cabbage white caterpillars and many other harmful critters. Pest Repellent – The punchy fragrance of Thyme can help to confuse pests looking for their favourite plants to devour and destroy. Planting thyme around the perimeter of herb gardens or below fruit trees can keep more vulnerable plants safe.1 Thyme Varieties There are hundreds of species of thyme, all with their own unique flavour and fragrance. I have picked out some of my personal favourites to help you get started: Common Thyme Botanical Name: Thymus vulgaris Unsurprisingly, this is the most commonly used species of thyme in cooking. It has a powerful, robust flavour and is a popular ingredient in Mediterranean dishes. This aromatic, hardy perennial grows to around 0.5m in height and the same in spread, and provides excellent, evergreen ground cover. It also produces pretty, delicate white and lilac flowers in the summer months. This variety of thyme grows best in moist, well-drained neutral and alkaline soils and prefers full sun. Common thyme is extremely low maintenance and just needs to be cut back in spring. Lemon Thyme Botanical Name: T. citriodorus Lemon thyme grows in an erect, upright form and has gorgeous foliage with a distinct lemony scent. This is a low-growing plant that forms excellent ground cover and will also thrive in rock gardens and containers. Because of its spreading habit, this variety of thyme can require a little more care and may need to be cut back to keep it under control. Lemon thyme will tolerate most soils, thrives when pruned and can even be trimmed into miniature hedges. Creeping Thyme Botanical Name: T. serpyllum Commonly known as ‘Mother-of-thyme’, this mat-forming variety grows only to about 8cm in height, sprawls quickly and randomly and is perfect for filling empty spaces. Creeping thyme has a more minty aroma and is not only deer-resistant, but also kid resistant! It is small but mighty and can handle being trampled in the garden. Creeping thyme produces dense sprays of pink, purple or white flowers which are irresistible to honey bees and will perform best in well-drained soil in full sun or light shade. Woolly Thyme Botanical Name: T. pseudolanuginosus This gorgeous, hardy perennial produces a wonderfully soft carpet of woolly grey foliage and pale mauve flowers which appear in summer. Woolly thyme spreads quite slowly, but its dense, mat-forming habit makes it ideal for rock gardens and patios. This variety of thyme does not have a noticeable scent and is not suitable for cooking; however, it’s extremely attractive and can be a great alternative to a lawn and will also spill gracefully over stone walls. Woolly thyme will thrive in a sunny, dry, well-drained spot and will grow no more than a few inches in height and has a spread of around 30cm. How To Grow Thyme Now that you’ve realised that your garden will be incomplete until you plant thyme, it’s time to get down to it. Most varieties require well-drained soil and full sun to light shade. Many types work well in rock gardens, cracks in pavings, herb gardens whilst others prefer pots and containers and can be grown inside or outside. While it is possible to grow thyme from seed, it can be really difficult to get the plant to establish itself. For this reason, we’d generally recommend buying young thyme plants from garden centres or supermarkets. You’ll want to plant the young thyme in free-draining soil or compost and water in. Thyme thrives in dry conditions, so once the plants have established, you won’t need to continue watering them. When it comes to soil, the poorer the conditions and the lesser the nutrients, the better. Because they require no watering, they will not grow well if combined with thirstier plants in a container. Thyme Plant Care Thyme doesn’t need a lot of fussing over so is a great option for gardeners who are limited on time. When your thyme plant has finished flowering, you can trim it back, and this will help to encourage new growth. You’ll also enjoy more leaves to harvest when autumn next rolls around. You can leave thyme to its own devices, but over time the plants will become woody, and you will end up needing to replace them at least every three years. If you are growing thyme in pots or containers, you can give it a weekly feed of liquid seaweed from March through to May to boost the plant’s growth. Thyme really is the gift that keeps on giving – it’s so easy to grow and care for, and requires very little intervention in order to thrive – if anything, it does best when neglected! References 1. Can Fragrant Plants Help Repel Insects? (2018, April 13). Mississippi State University Extension Service. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://extension.msstate.edu/blog/can-fragrant-plants-help-repel-insects
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Why You Should Grow Berberis (Barberry) As A Useful And Productive Garden Shrub
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Berberis? Where To Grow Berberis Planting Berberis Plant Care Berberis Sawfly Cutting Back References There are a number of different types of Berberis that make excellent choices for UK gardens. Though they might not be the showiest of plants, these evergreen shrubs are extremely useful, both in the garden and potentially also for their yields in a productive system – and they can often be truly beautiful at certain times of the year. Overview Botanical Name Berberis Common Name(s) Barberry Plant Type Shrub Native Area Dependent On Variety Hardiness Rating Mostly H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small yellow or orange flowers followed by dark berries When To Sow February, March, April, September, October, November Flowering Months April, May, June, July Berberis is the name given to a large genus of mostly evergreen shrubs that are found throughout many of the world’s temperate and sub-tropical regions.1 These plants are also commonly known as ‘barberry’. There are a number of different species within this genus, cultivars of several of which are common garden plants in the UK and in other similar climate zones. B. vulgaris Amongst those cultivars commonly grown as garden shrubs, there is a wide variety. There are taller growing species and shorter growing species, some spiny, some with ornamental leaves, flowers and berries. Why Grow Berberis? Berberis can be very useful shrubs for a range of reasons. They can be: Excellent hedgerow plants, creating thick and often spiny barriers, they can be used in wind-break plantings or as barriers for people or certain animals/ livestock. Suitable choices for planting in dappled or partial shade in a border or forest garden. Good for sites which experience maritime exposure. Suitable for planting in a range of different soil types including heavy clays, alkaline, neutral or acidic soils, and nutritionally poor soils as long as they are relatively moist. Great for wildlife-friendly planting schemes and for attracting native wildlife to the garden. The plants attract and feed bees and other pollinators when in flower. Birds like the berries – and a number of species will benefit from the shelter and habitats these shrubs can provide. Useful for providing humans with an edible yield. The barberries from a number of different Berberis can be eaten raw, dried or cooked and used in a range of preserves. Used to derive a yellow dye. (This is obtained from the roots and bark.) Attractive plants which provide visual interest through a large part of the year. Where To Grow Berberis All Berberis are, as mentioned above, relatively unfussy about where they are grown. However, for best results, they should usually be grown in moist yet relatively free-draining soil. You can use them to create a hedgerow, either a formal clipped hedge or a wilder and more natural hedge with mixed species. The latter is recommended for wildlife-friendly and eco-friendly garden design. You can also place Berberis at the back of a bed or border with any aspect, or even grow smaller and more compact Berberis shrubs in containers. Planting Most people will choose to purchase a Berberis shrub to place in their gardens. However, you can also propagate existing plants (perhaps in a friend or neighbour’s garden) by taking semi-ripe cuttings in the late summer or autumn. Cuttings should be taken in the usual way and planted out in their final growing positions once the root systems have begun to form. When planting out Berberis shrubs, make sure you dig a generous hole large enough to accommodate the root system. Add some home-made compost, leaf mould or other organic material into the planting hole to boost fertility. In areas where you feel a healthy fungal soil population may be lacking, it could also be a good idea to consider adding mycorrhizal fungi at this stage. Fill back in the hole, water generously, and mulch well around the shrub with organic matter. Berberis Plant Care Berberis are a great low-maintenance plant and usually require little care. They do not usually encounter many problems and once established, should not need regular watering unless the conditions are particularly dry. Berberis Sawfly One problem that can potentially arise is Berberis sawfly. Keep your eyes peeled for the small caterpillars and handpick these off the plants. Organic sprays are available, but are typically only effective at early larval stage. So picking off these by hand and staying alert is usually the best approach. Keep checking plants between April and October to stay on top of things. Act quickly if you see a few, as a bad infestation can decimate a hedge and leave it completely defoliated. Cutting Back The only other care that Berberis will typically require is pruning. In wilder gardens, you can largely leave these low-maintenance shrubs to their own devices. You can simply prune them once a year as desired to maintain their shape. If, however, you have a more formal garden and want a neat hedgerow, you will likely need to trim your Berberis twice a year. Remember that if you prune after flowering, the shrubs will not be able to produce their berries, so if you want to keep the fruit for yourself or for garden wildlife, give Berberis a trim only in the winter months. Berberis is a very rewarding plant to grow. Whether you grow it for environmental protection for other garden plants, for aesthetic evergreen appeal in shrubberies or garden borders, or as part of a perennial food-producing system, it can offer great value to a gardener. So why not consider adding some Berberis to your garden? References 1. Berberis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328526-2
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Why You Should Be Growing Rosemary - A Productive And Surprisingly Hardy Garden Herb
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Rosemary? Rosemary Types How To Grow Rosemary Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems References Rosemary is one distinctive herb; its needle-like foliage adds texture and structure to gardens, and its aromatic scent can transport you to a balmy evening somewhere in the Mediterranean. “If I had to pick one plant I couldn’t live without, it would have to be rosemary,” shares Garden Writer Sonya Patel Ellis. “I’ve had one plant in a container for nearly 20 years and it doesn’t matter what you throw at it – drought, snow, high winds, dust from nearby building projects – it just keeps shining through with its dark green, glossy, needle-like evergreen leaves, combined with the prettiest purple and white flowers for most of the year.” This delectable plant is also so easy to grow and produces romantic, delicate, pale blue flowers making it one of the most popular herbs among gardeners in the UK. In fact, rosemary grows so prolifically that managing and pruning are where you’ll spend most of your time caring for this perennial, evergreen shrub. Overview Botanical Name Salvia rosmarinus Common Name(s) Rosemary Plant Type Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Needle-like aromatic foliage Flowers Purple, lavender, white When To Sow March, April, May, September, October Flowering Months June, July When To Prune June, July, August, September With recent events in the world, many gardeners are trying to become even more self-sufficient. Including herbs like rosemary in your garden is a great way to do this, and can help you add gorgeous flavour to your meals, without having to make unwanted shopping trips. Rosemary is a fragrant, evergreen herb and, like other herbs such as oregano, lavender, thyme and basil, is a member of the mint family.1 Hailing from the Meditteranean, rosemary favours sunny and sheltered spots and, being an evergreen, its leaves can be harvested year-round.2 Why Grow Rosemary? Rosemary has been a real tradition in country garden cottages for generations, but these days you will see them in much more urban settings thanks to their versatility, charm and many uses. If you have any reservations about growing rosemary, then allow us to elaborate on why it really is the cat’s pyjamas: Rosemary is an excellent addition to many dishes, from roast chicken to roast lamb, salads to soups, not to mention the extra special something they offer for BBQs. This herb is the gift that keeps on giving. It fills your garden with its signature scent. No matter how tiny your garden is, you can still grow rosemary, it grows easily and speedily, making it a rewarding plant for any garden. Rosemary Types There are many, many strains of rosemary spanning a broad spectrum of features. If you are struggling to choose the right variety for your garden, we have put together a list of things to consider. Creeping Rosemary Recommended Variety: Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus Group’ A low-growing rosemary is a perfect option if you have a modest-sized garden. These varieties are well-suited to pots and containers and will also cascade down beautifully if planted in window boxes and planters. Creeping rosemary varieties grow no taller than 0.5m in height, but they can spread as far as 2-3m wide, which also makes them terrific for trailing over walls. Given how far this rosemary can spread, you will need to either allow for the space they need to grow or prune your plant effectively. “I grow my ‘Prostratus’ types for cascading over the side of containers,” says Sonya. “I recently visited the lovely island of Skyros in Greece and there was the most impressive 5m long clipped hedge of prostrate rosemary that felt and smelled incredible, especially at dusk and dawn. It will forever be imprinted on my senses.” Mid-Height Rosemary Recommended Variety: Salvia rosmarinus ‘Rosea’ As the name suggests, rosemary varieties in this category grow to a mid-height, usually growing no taller than 1m in height and spreading up to 1m in width. This variety can provide great ground cover for slopes and hard-to-reach areas of your garden. That said, with all types of rosemary it will spread as far as it can so if you are planting in a more confined area, you do need to keep an eye on it to prevent it taking over. Tall Rosemary Recommended Variety: S. rosmarinus ‘Albiflora Group’ Needless to say, this category of rosemary represents the tallest growing members of the family. These varieties can grow up to 2.5m tall and up to 2.5m wide. If you have the space for this plant, tall rosemary can bring a tremendous amount of texture, structure and interest to your garden. Smaller varieties make themselves known thanks to their unforgettable fragrance. The taller plants also make their presence known with their unique foliage which comes in shades of deep green, bright green and yellow-gold. How To Grow Rosemary Rosemary grows best in full sun, in a sheltered spot with well-drained soil. If planted straight into the garden then it is likely the young plants will be sitting in wet soil over the winter which can be extremely damaging. For this reason, we recommend planting rosemary in pots and containers and allowing it to establish itself for a few years before transplanting it into your garden. “Mediterranean herbs such as Rosemary do really well in pots because you can create the correct conditions for them by providing gritty, free draining and nutrient-poor soil,” shares Nicola Macnaughton, The Bonnie Gardener. “They hate being in claggy multipurpose compost.” You will also want to keep in mind that, if left to its own devices, rosemary can grow as much as four feet in height and four feet wide. If you are planning on allowing your rosemary to grow that large, then you will need to ensure that you plant it in a space that can accommodate it. Ongoing Plant Care Rosemary is a really low-maintenance plant, but there are a few things you can do to ensure healthy growth: Watering Water rosemary evenly throughout the growing season, taking extra care to do so during dry spells. Take care not to overwater; however, as rosemary will not tolerate sitting in wet soil. Growing Indoors If you are keen on having access to fresh rosemary for cooking during winter, then we recommend either taking a cutting or growing another plant inside. Be sure to place it in a warm sunny spot, away from cold drafts. Winter Care Rosemary that has been grown in the ground will not tolerate being replanted in a pot or container well. For this reason, if you do want fresh rosemary in the winter months, then that plant should be planted and kept in a pot or container which is easy to move in and out of your house. If you are facing a particularly harsh winter where your rosemary may not survive, then be sure to take cuttings for the following season. “Because I grow Rosemary on fertile, moist soil, it tends to grow somewhat lax and straggly after 3-4 years,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “After about 3 years, I take cuttings for replanting in year 5 to avoid a plant becoming large and too woody for harvesting.” Common Problems Rosemary is usually pretty unproblematic, but there are a few things to keep an eye out for: Rosemary beetle Aerial blight Bacterial leaf spots Root rot As you can see, rosemary is an incredibly easy and rewarding plant to grow and is sure to make your garden merrier, not to mention your kitchen. Rosemary is an essential herb when cooking and can also be used when making tea; it also fills your garden with its aromatic scent. References 1. Petruzzello, M. (2015a, August 19). List of plants in the family Lamiaceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Lamiaceae-2035853 2. Rosemary – Salvia rosmarinus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/rosemary
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Chris Lee's Must-Have Small Flowering Shrubs For Easy Gardening
IN THIS GUIDE Why Choose Small Flowering Shrubs? 1) Dwarf Butterfly Bush 2) Rhododendron 3) Small Hydrangea 4) Checkerberry 5) Flax Lily 6) Bearberry Cotoneaster 7) Green Carpet 8) Munstead Lavender 9) Shrubby Cinquefoil 10) Forsythia 11) Dwarf Spiraea 12) Winter Heath 13) Dwarf Lilac 14) Dwarf Fothergilla 15) Dwarf Camellia 16) Hebe 17) Fuchsia 18) Shrubby Mullein 19) Rock Rose Think Small But Mighty! Shrubs and bushes provide a simple framework for gardens, adding shape, texture and structure. By choosing flowering varieties, you can create year-round visual interest. Small flowering shrubs and bushes are generally easy to care for and maintain, and also provide excellent ground cover. With so many varieties to choose from, it’s easy to find options for a wide range of sites and soil that will suit the style and size of your garden. 1) Dwarf Butterfly Bush BOTANICAL NAME: Buddleja davidii RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Flutterby Petite Tutti Fruitti’, ‘Buzz Hot Raspberry’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 100-120cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 100-120cm FLOWERS: PINK / PURPLE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER – AUTUMN A firm favourite among gardeners and butterflies alike, butterfly bush is a fabulous addition to any garden. Also known as buddleja, this fast-growing, deciduous shrub produces masses of long-spiked trusses that bloom from summer to autumn. There are now new dwarf varieties that ensure that this plucky plant won’t take over your entire garden. These come in a range of exciting colours, although butterflies seem to be more attracted to the mauve blooms. Butterfly bushes require full sun and fertile, well-drained soil. Plant in spring or autumn, before frost, and water thoroughly. There is no need to fertilise: while this can promote leaf growth, it will stunt flower production. Even in their first-year butterfly bushes bloom abundantly, making them an extremely rewarding little plant to grow. 2) Rhododendron RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Ginny Gee’ (Pictured), ‘Yaku Fairy’, ‘Alexander’ HARDINESS RATING: TYPICALLY H4-H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT: VARIES TYPICAL SPREAD: VARIES FLOWERS: VARIES FLOWERING PERIOD: TYPICALLY SPRING This evergreen show-stopper sports shiny, deep green leaves that help to showcase its blooms, which come in gorgeous shades purple, pink, yellow and pure white. You’ll want to choose a shade-dappled spot that is well sheltered and avoid areas of deep shade below trees. Rhododendrons enjoy moist but well-drained soil that is rich with organic matter. The small varieties work brilliantly in rock gardens as well as being perfect for containers in a nice shady patio area. Plant in October or from March to April and, where possible, use rainwater rather than tap water when watering. Tap water can often be too hard and contains high levels of calcium, which can reduce the acidity around the roots. 3) Small Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea macrophylla RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Altona’ (Pictured), ‘Pia’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 100-150cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 100-150cm FLOWERS: TYPICALLY PINK / PURPLE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER This compact cutie quits growing when it reaches around three feet in height. This variety of hydrangea is quite the show-off and works fabulously in the middle of a border, as well as being ideal for a decorative patio container. Choose a spot in full sun or where it will get at least four to six hours of sunshine per day. Splendidly low maintenance, this shrub requires no pruning. All you need to do is sit back, relax, and admire them. 4) Checkerberry BOTANICAL NAME: Gaultheria procumbens HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 15-30cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 50-100cm FLOWERS: PINK / WHITE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER Gaultheria procumbens, to give it its full name, is a lovely little evergreen with simple, leathery, and dainty, bell-shaped pink or white flowers. After their blooming period, they also produce long-lasting berries in a range of colours. This dwarf shrub maxes out at about 15cm in height and, with its leaves turning a reddish hue in winter, it truly makes it a great year-round shrub. Checkerberry plants prefer moist soils in partial or full shade. They are perfect for garden beds, banks and slopes, rock gardens and patios, making them a very versatile option that will look right at home in both formal and informal gardens. 5) Flax Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Phormium RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Duet’ (Pictured) HARDINESS RATING: H3 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 20-30cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 30-50cm FLOWERS: YELLOW FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER This evergreen perennial grows into a clump of leathery, strap-shaped green leaves with creamy white margins, reaching a height of up to 30cm. In summer it produces tall panicles of small, yellow, tubular flowers. Flax lily is best suited to fertile, moist, well-drained soil and will enjoy a spot in full sun. If planted in an area prone to frost then be sure to provide a deep layer of dry mulch over the winter months. This plant is excellent for adding texture to your garden and is a perfect addition to flower borders and beds. A superb low maintenance option, it only requires a little deadheading in autumn and is easy to propagate by division in spring. 6) Bearberry Cotoneaster BOTANICAL NAME: Cotoneaster dammeri HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 10-20cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 150-200cm FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER This mini-masterpiece can be deciduous or evergreen and wears a simple yet striking attire of deep green leaves and clusters of small pink or white flowers that bloom in early summer. After flowering, it dons delightfully showy red, black or purple berries that make this little plant punch way above its weight. Growing only up to a height of around 20cm, bearberry cotoneaster does its best in well-drained, reasonably dry conditions and prefers full sun or partial shade. This bush is drought resistant and is ideal to use for groundcover of banks and slopes. “Cotoneaster dammeri makes a great functional shrub that covers the ground and keeps weeds down,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “In addition to this, like other cotoneasters, its small spring flowers are hugely popular with pollinators and its berries are often eaten by birds.” Aphids do take a bit of a liking to it so be vigilant and treat accordingly. 7) Green Carpet BOTANICAL NAME: Pachysandra terminalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 10-20cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 80-100cm FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER This Japanese spurge known as ‘green carpet’ is a mat-forming evergreen with creeping stems and coarse-toothed, leathery clusters of leaves. Growing no more than 20cm in height it produces cute little white flowers in summer. This robust little plant grows well in nearly all soils in full or partial shade, and is another drought-resistant option. Green carpet is great for ground covering under larger shrubs as well as roses and is another small flowering shrub that works well on banks and slopes. 8) Munstead Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 40-50cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 60-100cm FLOWERS: PURPLE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER No list would be complete without luscious lavender. If planted in the garden, it does have a habit of spreading quite far, but in a container, it’s the perfect small flowering shrub for a patio or on a front porch. Munstead lavender is a small variety growing no taller than 45cm, with narrow, greyish green foliage and producing purple-blue flowers in mid to late summer. Gorgeously aromatic and loved by basically all pollinators, lavender is supremely easy to grow and care for and is a firm favourite in all English gardens. We recommend planting in well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil and adding potash to encourage flowering. Once established, munstead lavender is the gift that keeps on giving. It’s easy to propagate by taking cuttings in summer, too, so you can always share the love with friends and family. 9) Shrubby Cinquefoil BOTANICAL NAME: Potentilla fruticosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 60-100cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 60-100cm FLOWERS: YELLOW FLOWERING PERIOD: SPRING – AUTUMN 10) Forsythia BOTANICAL NAME: Forsythia × intermedia RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Mikador’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 80-100cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 80-100cm FLOWERS: YELLOW FLOWERING PERIOD: SPRING 11) Dwarf Spiraea BOTANICAL NAME: Spiraea japonica RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Nana’, ‘Firelight’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 20-50cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 70-100cm FLOWERS: TYPICALLY PINK / PURPLE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER 12) Winter Heath BOTANICAL NAME: Erica carnea RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: Wintersonne; Golden Starlet HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 20-40cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 30-50cm FLOWERS: WHITE / PINK / PURPLE FLOWERING PERIOD: WINTER – SPRING 13) Dwarf Lilac BOTANICAL NAME: Syringa meyeri RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Palibin’ (Pictured) HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 80-120cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 100-120cm FLOWERS: PINK / PURPLE FLOWERING PERIOD: SPRING – SUMMER 14) Dwarf Fothergilla BOTANICAL NAME: Fothergilla gardenii RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Blue Mist’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 75-100cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 75-100cm FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERING PERIOD: SPRING – SUMMER 15) Dwarf Camellia BOTANICAL NAME: Camellia sasanqua RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Dwarf Shishi’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 80-100cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 80-100cm FLOWERS: PINK FLOWERING PERIOD: WINTER 16) Hebe BOTANICAL NAME: VERONICA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Margret’ (Pictured), ‘Pascal’, ‘Wiri Dawn’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 30-50cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 30-50cm FLOWERS: PINK / PURPLE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER – AUTUMN 17) Fuchsia RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Marinka’ (Pictured), ‘Billy Green’, ‘Herald’ HARDINESS RATING: TYPICALLY H2-H4 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 30-50cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 30-50cm FLOWERS: PINK / RED / PURPLE FLOWERING PERIOD: SUMMER – AUTUMN 18) Shrubby Mullein BOTANICAL NAME: Verbascum dumulosum HARDINESS RATING: H4 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 20-30cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 30-50cm FLOWERS: YELLOW FLOWERING PERIOD: SPRING – SUMMER 19) Rock Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Helianthemum RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘The Bride’ (Pictured), ‘Jubilee’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 TYPICAL HEIGHT: 25-30cm TYPICAL SPREAD: 25-30cm FLOWERS: VARIES FLOWERING PERIOD: SPRING – SUMMER Think Small But Mighty! By now you should be brimming with inspiration about all the best small flowering shrubs and bushes for your garden. With so many to choose from, it’s easy to see how quickly you will be able to fill your garden with beautiful little plants with attractive blooms and luscious leaves. Remember to take time to research the needs of each of your chosen shrubs and bushes to make sure you are giving them the best start in life. Do so, and they will reward you with a colourful and visually interesting throughout the year. Whether you are limited on space or just want to create a more diverse look for your garden, it’s clear to see that though these flowering shrubs and bushes are small, they are indeed mighty. We wish you the best of luck with your small flowering shrubs and bushes!
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Research Says These 21 Versatile Shrubs Are The Fastest Growing
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Green Giant 2) Photinia 3) Hydrangea 4) Butterfly Bush 5) Portuguese Laurel 6) Apple Blossom 7) Rambler Rose 8) Forsythia 9) Tree Mallow ‘Rosea’ 10) Fuchsia 11) Rhododendron 12) Gooseberry 13) Rose Of Sharon 14) Lilac 15) Firethorn 16) Cotoneaster 17) Viburnum 18) Goat Willow 19) Dogwood 20) Mock Orange 21) Raspberry Shrubs may be one of the most versatile plants you can include in your garden. With thousands of varieties, they can emphasise structure and create texture and bursts of colour. If you are on the hunt for fast-growing shrubs, then chances are you are looking to quickly plug a gap, wishing to create more privacy, or perhaps you are just feeling impatient. Aside from the charming aesthetic they can bring to your garden, the humble shrub can indeed provide many valuable functions. From creating a windbreak or a screen, to providing you with a formal or informal hedge – they really are the unsung heroes of our gardens. Some shrubs can take quite a while to establish, so if you have a need for speed, this guide is for you. We’ve put together a list of fast-growing shrubs as well as ways in which you can use them to your advantage. 1) Green Giant BOTANICAL NAME: THUJA HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 60CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 15-20 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ MAX WIDTH: 6-8M While it might be typically considered a tree rather than a shrub (especially if allowed to grow unchecked, as above) it can be easily shaped and will seemingly grow at the speed of light! There are many types of Thuja, but when it comes to a fast-growing type, look no further than the Green Giant. Growing best in rich, well-drained soil and with full sun exposure, this tall, strong evergreen will quickly create the perfect screen for privacy as well as being an excellent candidate for hedges. 2) Photinia BOTANICAL NAME: Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 4M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M AGM RECIPIENT Growing up to 5m in height, this popular plant grows quickly, producing an excellent privacy screen for your garden. “Photinia is a really versatile garden shrub, proving year-round interest and screening,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Early in the year, the new foliage is a particularly attractive red, followed by glossy green leaves and autumn berries that are popular with birds. It is beautiful as well as functional.” Be aware that this shrub likes to spread but with regular pruning it is easily contained. If you do find yourself with an overgrown plant then it will respond to hard pruning. Also known as ‘Red Robin’, this evergreen would also work very well for hedging and its new growth is a beautiful, bright red in springtime. The Photinia is easy to grow and has no strong preferences when it comes to soil. 3) Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea paniculata VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘LIMELIGHT’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 5-8 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M+ MAX WIDTH: 2M AGM RECIPIENT Found in gardens all across the country, this lavish, flowering shrub is renowned for its stunning globes which bloom in an array of colours from mid to late summer. There are many different types of Hydrangeas and they are super easy to grow and establish themselves quickly. This shrub usually flowers in shades of pink, purple and blue and with some plants you can actually manipulate the colour by changing the pH levels in the soil. These gorgeous showstoppers also vary greatly in size with some growing no more than three feet, whilst others can grow up to fifteen and span a width of twelve. Ideally, you want to plant them in autumn in a sheltered spot that gets bright morning sunlight but plenty of shade in the afternoon. 4) Butterfly Bush BOTANICAL NAME: Buddleja davidii VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘Nanho Purple’ (Pictured) HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 65CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-4 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M AGM RECIPIENT Commonly known as the ‘Butterfly Bush’, this gorgeous shrub produces masses of blossoms that bloom from summer to autumn. Its flowers come in many different shades but if you’ve chosen it to attract butterflies then they seem to prefer the species that blooms in mauve. Buddleias require full sunlight and well-drained soil and can grow to around ten feet tall. They tend to respond well to being cut back hard in spring as this encourages growth which will produce more flowers. 5) Portuguese Laurel BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus lusitanica HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 20+ YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ MAX WIDTH: 6-8M AGM RECIPIENT This speedy evergreen is the perfect shrub to create an elegant hedge for your garden. Bearing glossy dark-green leaves which grow from striking, red stems, it also produces sweet-smelling, white blossom in the summertime, as well as small red berries making it very attractive to both butterflies and birds. This resilient shrub can grow up to five meters in height but is easily maintained and shaped, only requiring one trim a year in summer. It is best grown in a sheltered spot in sunlight or partly in shade. 6) Apple Blossom BOTANICAL NAME: ESCALLONIA HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 5-8 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M AGM RECIPIENT This splendid shrub is also an evergreen with thick, leathery green leaves, with five-petalled flowers that bloom in summer and early autumn in shades of white, pink or red. Not only are they ideal for hedging but they are also adept at growing in tricky garden spots, tolerate a wide range of soil types and can also provide an excellent windbreak. Preferring to grow in full sunlight the Apple Blossom can also be grown in pots and, likewise, will adapt well to growing on a rockery. 7) Rambler Rose BOTANICAL NAME: ROSA VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘ALBERTINE’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 60-100CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 6-8 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 6-8M MAX WIDTH: 2-3M AGM RECIPIENT This rampantly growing shrub is perfect for clothing an unsightly wall or draping over an archway. Hopelessly romantic, rambling roses can spread to up to six meters so do make sure you have ample space for them. They usually produce an abundance of flowers in late spring or early summer, blooming for several weeks. Ramblers are healthy shrubs, resistant to disease, require minimal care and will tolerate most soils and partial shade. 8) Forsythia HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 4-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M AGM RECIPIENT Perfect for hedging and sloped or informal gardens, Forsythia shrubs can add a dramatic flair to any garden. Easily recognisable by their bright, yellow flowers that bloom in early spring, this plant is easy to take care of and maintain. Enjoying full sunlight, this shrub should be planted where it is likely to receive around six hours of sun in well-drained soil. 9) Tree Mallow ‘Rosea’ BOTANICAL NAME: Malva × clementii VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘ROSEA’ (PICTURED) HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2M MAX WIDTH: 1M AGM RECIPIENT Lavatera, or ‘Tree Mallow’, are perfect for adding beautiful colour to your garden. From mid-summer, they boast numerous large flowers in shades of pink, white and purple, which can be prolonged by frequent dead-heading. This shrub is straightforward to grow and care for and can grow to up to two meters, so while it can be a border plant, you will need to provide it with plenty of space. 10) Fuchsia VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘WHARFEDALE’; ‘MARGARET’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 2-3 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 1-2M MAX WIDTH: 0.5M AGM RECIPIENT 11) Rhododendron VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘LAVENDER GIRL’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 55-60CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-4 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M AGM RECIPIENT 12) Gooseberry BOTANICAL NAME: Ribes uva-crispa VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘INVICTA’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 40-50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 1.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M AGM RECIPIENT 13) Rose Of Sharon BOTANICAL NAME: Hibiscus syriacus VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘Southern Bell’; ‘Woodbridge’ (Pictured) HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1M AGM RECIPIENT 14) Lilac BOTANICAL NAME: Syringa vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 55CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10-15 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 8M MAX WIDTH: 4M 15) Firethorn BOTANICAL NAME: PYRACANTHA HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2-3M MAX WIDTH: 2-3M AGM RECIPIENT 16) Cotoneaster HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10-12 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 4M MAX WIDTH: 4M AGM RECIPIENT 17) Viburnum BOTANICAL NAME: Viburnum tinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10-15 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 3-4M MAX WIDTH: 3-4M 18) Goat Willow BOTANICAL NAME: Salix caprea HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 20-30 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 8-12M MAX WIDTH: 4-6M 19) Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus alba VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘SIBIRICA’ (PICTURED) HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 5-8 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M AGM RECIPIENT 20) Mock Orange BOTANICAL NAME: Philadelphus VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘Beauclerk’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M AGM RECIPIENT 21) Raspberry BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus idaeus VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘Malling Admiral’; ‘Polka’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 0.5M AGM RECIPIENT
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How To Grow Wisteria - Choose These Types For Cascading, Beautifully Fragrant Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Wisteria Varieties How To Grow Wisteria Wisteria Care References Effortlessly beautiful and timelessly charming, Wisteria is famously known for the pendulous clusters of lilac, white or bluish flowers it produces in late spring and early summer. Often seen draping itself over arches and pergolas or climbing its way up the walls of a country cottage, wisteria is a serious showstopper. Across our wisteria guides, we’ve partnered with Chris O’Keefe, Owner of The London Wisteria Company and O’Keefe Gardens Limited. “There is nothing like the scent and feeling wisteria gives you whilst in bloom,” Chris says. “I’m lucky to live and work in central London where, in spring, places such as Chelsea and Kensington are in full bloom with wisteria showcasing the frontage of many homes.” Overview Botanical Name Wisteria Plant Type Climber Native Area East Asia, Eastern United States Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Pinnate leaves Flowers Racemes of purple, pea-like flowers When To Sow January, February, March, April, October, November, December Flowering Months May, June Wisteria is a vigorous climbing shrub, and is actually a legume, making it part of the pea family (Fabaceae).1 As previously mentioned, wisteria adorns itself with cascading, beautifully fragrant lilac, blue or white flowers. The stems are stiff and woody, and the trunks can become as thick as a small tree. There are ten species of wisteria, with the most popular and widespread being native to China, Japan and North America.2 Wisteria Varieties With ten species to choose from, it could be hard to know where to start. We’ve chosen a few of the most popular to grow: Chinese Wisteria Botanical Name: W. sinensis This wisteria twines itself anti-clockwise and can grow from about ten to twenty-five feet, sometimes even higher. It can also be trained horizontally over the same distance making it a popular choice for a wall or side of a house. The chains of fragrant flowers, which are violet in colour, grow to about a foot in length and bloom in late spring or early summer gradually over a few weeks. This species has small oval-shaped leaves that usually will be bronze in colour when they are young. Japanese Wisteria Botanical Name: W. floribunda The Japanese wisteria can grow up to 30 feet or higher and will also grow the same amount horizontally. This species twines clockwise and has oval leaves that turn a beautiful yellow colour in autumn. The flowers are usually violet and heavily scented, and their blooms last much longer than their Chinese counterpart. This is a reliable choice and is wonderfully decorative and perfect for arches. Silky Wisteria Botanical Name: W. brachybotrys This Chinese wisteria variety twines anticlockwise, with fine, silky-soft leaves. Hence its name. The lilac or white flowers bloom from late spring to early summer, and the bloom will improve with age. The clusters of flowers grow to about six inches in length and are strongly scented. The silky wisteria grows to twenty-five feet and often higher and is perfect for walls. Kentucky Wisteria Botanical Name: W. frutescens var. macrostachya This American species is native to the midwest, Louisiana and Texas. It twines anticlockwise, and its pale violet flowers bloom in late spring or early summer. The clusters grow to the length of up to one foot. This wisteria can grow from fifteen to twenty-five feet and will often bloom again during the growing season. American Wisteria Botanical Name: W. frutescens A native to the eastern parts of the United States, this wisteria twines anticlockwise and grows from ten to thirty feet. It has lilac-blue flowers, blooming in clusters of four to six inches and are not generally heavily scented. This species will bloom primarily in late spring and then sporadically throughout summer. How To Grow Wisteria While it is possible to plant and grow wisteria from seeds, you should expect to wait up to twenty years for its famous flowers to bloom (typical estimates range from 10-20 years).3 For this reason, we recommend that you buy a plant raised by grafting. However, be aware that even with a grafted plant, you may have to wait up to five years for it to bloom. “Wisterias must surely have a little ticking clock inside them,” says Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “My Wisteria flowered for the first time exactly five years after planting it, to almost within a month, and has flowered abundantly since. It really is like the flick of a switch.” The best time to plant wisteria is between October and April, although if you opt to grow it in a container, you can do this at any time of year. Garden Planting You will want to plant your wisteria in fertile, well-drained soil and preferably in a south or west-facing direction. Being the vigorous climber that it is you will need to support them against a wall, or another garden structure, wires or even a tree. Full sunshine is preferable, but they will tolerate a little shade. Although this may reduce their flowering. Container Growing As mentioned, if you are planting in a container, this can be done any time of year. That said, wisterias are easier to care for in the autumn and winter months. The container should be at least eighteen inches in depth and should be filled with a loam-based potting compost. Do be aware that a container-grown wisteria will not be as successful as those planted in a garden. Wisteria Care Now you’ve planted your gorgeous wisteria, the next step is learning how to care for it. Watering Wisterias can dry out quickly, especially in sandy or light soil. Make sure you water them frequently, especially during dry spells. Feeding In springtime, we recommend a high potash feed to encourage those gorgeous flowers. Rose or flowering shrub fertiliser will also work. If you are growing your wisteria in a container, then liquid tomato fertiliser is ideal. You could also use slow-release fertiliser in compost. Propagating As previously mentioned, wisteria grown from seed is said to take up to twenty years to flower, so if you want to share the wealth with friends and family or just stock up for yourself, then we recommend taking softwood or hardwood cuttings. Take softwood cuttings in spring to mid-summer, and hardwood cuttings in winter. If you’d like to try growing from seed, collect the bean-like seed pods from an established plant, then place in a tray to allow them to ripen. Next, gently open the pod and place in compost at a depth of about two centimetres. If you find, upon opening the pod, that the seed is dry, then place in water and soak it for 24 hours before planting. References 1. Harris, S. (n.d.-f). Wisteria sinensis. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/WX/Wisteria 2. Utah State University. (2022, August 3). Wisteria in the Garden. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/wisteria-in-the-garden 3. How to grow wisteria. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/wisteria/growing-guide
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Growing Advice For Mexican Orange Blossom - A Sweet-Smelling Evergreen Shrub
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Plant Care Aspect & Exposure Watering & Fertilising When To Plant Propagating Guidelines Common Diseases & Problems References Choisya ternata, better known as Mexican Orange Blossom, is an evergreen shrub with divided leaves and small white flowers, which produce a sweet fragrance. The plant flowers in spring, and sometimes again in autumn, so it’s a great way to add colour to your garden over multiple seasons. It makes a pretty, ornamental addition to garden borders and courtyards, and looks good in combination with other flowering plants, such as geraniums and irises. It is a hardy plant, and relatively easy to grow in the UK, providing you have a sunny location that’s sheltered from the wind. It is drought tolerant and requires very little maintenance once established. If you want to add this sweet-smelling shrub to your garden, check out our full Mexican Orange Blossom care and growing guide below. We’ve included everything from ideal growing conditions and methods of propagation, to feeding requirements and common pests. Overview Botanical Name Choisya ternata Common Name(s) Mexican Orange Blossom Plant Type Shrub Native Area United States & Mexico Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Star-shaped, white flowers When To Sow April, May, September, October Flowering Months May, June Choisya ternata originates from the South-West of the United States and Mexico – which is where it gets its other name: ‘Mexican Orange Blossom’.1 The plant is part of the Rutaceae family, and there are several additional cultivars, including ‘Sundance’, ‘Moonshine’, and ‘Brica’.2 ’Aztec pearl’ The ‘Aztec Pearl’ variety is a smaller cultivar, with finer foliage. It is a medium-sized shrub that grows relatively quickly, reaching up to 2.5m in height, and approximately 2.5m in spread – although smaller growing varieties are also available. It has a round, bushy shape, and is generally grown as an ornamental plant in borders and rockeries. C. ternata is evergreen in most climates, with glossy, dark green divided leaves, which grow in 3 leaflets. The ‘Sundance’ variety has attractive lime green to yellow foliage, which looks its best from March to November. The shrub also produces small, star-shaped white flowers, which appear in spring, usually around April and May, and sometimes again in early autumn. The flowers have a subtle pink tinge and a sweet fragrance that’s attractive to pollinators, including birds and bees. Mexican orange blossom produces small, star-shaped white flowers Despite its name, the flowers do not smell strongly of oranges, but rather have a subtle citrus scent. The blossoms do, however, look similar to those on the orange plant. As well as Mexican orange blossom, C. ternata is also known as Mexican orange flower, mock orange, and sometimes by its synonym, C. grandiflora. The choisya part of the name comes from the Swiss botanist Jacques Denys Choisy.3 Plant Care Being from Mexico, C. ternata is used to growing in full sunlight, so try to find it a sunny spot in your garden. Aspect & Exposure If necessary, it can tolerate partial shade, although this may limit flowering. It doesn’t like to be exposed, so look for an area that’s sheltered from the wind by trees or a fence. The plant can tolerate temperatures down to -10°C but will need to be protected if temperatures drop to -15°C or lower, as this can cause the plant serious frost damage. For this reason, it is best suited to growth in parts of the UK with a milder climate. It will grow in most soil types and pHs, but prefers the soil to be fertile, and it must be well-drained, to prevent root rot. Watering & Fertilising During the first year, you should water the soil regularly, to prevent it from drying out. Once established, its warm and dry natural habitat means the plant is tolerant to drought, and should require very little watering, except during extremely dry periods. Mexican orange blossom flowers in spring, and the white, star-shaped blooms will often appear again in autumn. When To Plant You can plant C. ternata at any time of year, except in winter, or when there is frost on the ground. The best time to plant is usually considered to be late spring or early autumn – allowing you to avoid frosts, but also the heat of summer. Plant C. ternata in spring or autumn, to avoid frosts When planting, you should try to choose a sunny location, that’s sheltered from winds. Allow plenty of space for the plant to spread out, bearing in mind that some varieties will grow to 2.5m high and wide. Upon planting, add a high phosphorous or blood, fish and bone fertiliser to the soil, to give your Mexican orange blossom the best possible start, and encourage root development. Water it well, and keep the soil moist during the first year, until the plant is established. If you’re planting out semi-hardwood cuttings, you should plant these as soon as you take them, in late summer or early autumn. Similarly, if you’re planting seeds, these should be planted in pots as soon as they are harvested, in late spring. Propagating Guidelines Taking semi-hardwood cuttings is considered to be the best and easiest way to propagate Mexican orange blossom. Cuttings can be taken in late-summer to mid-autumn, when there should be plenty of current-season shoots, with hard bases and soft tips. Use sharp secateurs to take the cuttings, and aim for lengths of 10–15cm. Take the cuttings in the morning, and make the cut below a leaf node. Plant them out straight away if possible, and certainly within 12 hours. To plant, dip the base in a rooting hormone to help stimulate growth, and place into a cuttings compost. Keep them warm, well-ventilated and moist (but well-drained), until the roots take hold, and make sure to remove any dead or diseased material regularly, to help prevent fungal moulds. If you prefer, it is also possible to propagate Mexican Orange Blossom from seed. To do this, harvest the seeds in spring, and plant them directly into a peat-based potting compost. This should be in a small container, with good drainage. Common Diseases & Problems There are not many diseases to be concerned about with C. ternata, but it is vulnerable to a few common pests, including glasshouse red spider mites, capsid bugs, slugs and snails. Snails will eat the foliage of plants, causing obvious holes and damage. They can be controlled by setting traps, or picking them off by hand, and then removing them from your garden. Signs of glasshouse red spider mite include a pale mottling on the leaves, and leaf dropping, usually from March to October. You may also see evidence of the mites themselves, including tiny yellowish bugs, white skins and eggshells. In extreme cases, an infestation might even cause the plant to die. Glasshouse red spider mite is caused by warm and dry conditions, such as those found in a greenhouse. Help to prevent it by giving your plants plenty of space to grow, so that air can circulate, and spraying the foliage with water. If your plant suffers an infestation, you can treat it with biological controls, by introducing a predatory mite or midge to the environment. Alternatively, you can use a specialised pesticide, providing that the plant is not in flower, so it will not affect pollinators. Why Is My Choisya ternata Turning Yellow? There are a few reasons why your plant may be turning yellow. It’s worth noting that the leaves of some varieties, such as ‘Sundance’ are yellow when new in spring, and turn yellow again in autumn. Outside of these times though, yellowing leaves could be a sign of undesirable growing conditions. To tackle yellow leaves, you can try feeding the plant with fertiliser or transplanting it to a sunnier location. Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’ One of the most common causes of yellow foliage is poor drainage, so make sure the soil is not waterlogged. References 1. Choisya ternata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:771812-1 2. Choisya ternata | Mexican orange blossom. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/3766/choisya-ternata-mexican-orange-blossom-mexican-orange/details 3. Choisy, Jacques Denys (Denis). (n.d.). JSTOR. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.jstor.org/stable/10.5555/al.ap.person.k2463
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Blackcurrant Bush Growing Guide For Summer Berries (And Keeping The Birds Away)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Blackcurrants Pruning Guidelines Propagation Common Problems Harvesting Container Growing Blackcurrants References Blackcurrant bushes make a tasty addition to your garden, producing a crop of deliciously sharp berries in the height of summer. As well as the famous berries, blackcurrant plants also produce aromatic foliage and small flowers which will attract pollinators into your garden. This woody shrub is native to northern Europe, and therefore fully hardy and easy to grow in the UK climate. If you’re short on space, some of the more compact cultivars can also be grown in containers. There’s really no drawback to adding this fruity little number to your garden, so read on for our full care and growing guide, for everything you need to know about successfully growing blackcurrants. Overview Botanical Name Ribes nigrum Common Name(s) Blackcurrants Plant Type Fruit Native Area Northern and Central Europe, North Asia Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small flowers followed by berries When To Sow February, March, October, November Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September When To Prune January, February, November, December The Ribes nigrum plant, better known as the blackcurrant, is part of the Grossulariaceae family.1 It is native to northern and central Europe, and northern Asia, and has been cultivated in Russia since the 11th century, and in Europe since the late 17th century.2 Today, blackcurrants are grown commercially in many parts of the world, including eastern Europe and New Zealand. The blackcurrant bush is a medium-sized, woody shrub, with broad, aromatic leaves of approximately 4cm, and racemes of small flowers. “I love the smell of Blackcurrant leaves almost as much as the taste of the fruit,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Brushed past on a warm spring or summer day, the scent released takes me right back to my childhood. “I also leave my bushes unnetted but try to get a good harvest before I share them with the birds!” Flowers appear in spring and are followed by dark purple berries in mid-summer. Most established blackcurrant plants reach an approximate size of 1.5m in height and spread. Common Varieties There are many cultivars available, each showcasing different sizes, flavours and flowering times. Some popular cultivars include ‘Ben Connan’, which flowers early, and produces lots of large berries. ‘Big Ben’ is a good all-rounder, with easy-to-pick fruit, whilst ‘Ben Hope’ is hardy in unfavourable growing conditions. ‘Ben Sarek’ is a compact variety, suited to small gardens and container growth, and ‘Ben Tirran’ flowers late, which is great if you prefer to pick your berries in late summer. Many of the modern cultivars were developed in Europe in the 20th century, with the intention to build pest resistance and improve yields. The leaves, bark and roots of the blackcurrant plant have been used for centuries in traditional herbal remedies, whilst the tart berries are a popular choice for flavouring jams, desserts, juices and cordials (Ribena, anyone?). Habitat & Growing Conditions The natural habitat of blackcurrant is northern and central Europe and northern Asia. Thanks to its relatively cold natural habitat, the plant is hardy and can tolerate low temperatures – in fact, it requires a period of chilling in order to produce new growth in spring. The ideal growing conditions of the blackcurrant plant are a sunny or partially shaded spot, with moderate temperatures and moist, fertile soil. It likes to be sheltered from cold winds, and it is not drought-tolerant. How To Grow Blackcurrants Blackcurrant bushes prefer a position with full sun if possible, although they will tolerate partial shade – try to find an east, west or south-facing spot for them in your garden. Although the plant is hardy, it prefers to be in a sheltered location, away from cold winds. Soil Requirements Add garden compost to the soil upon planting, to get your plant off to the best start. As far as soil is concerned, blackcurrant will tolerate most types, but its preference is for fertile soil, and this has to be kept moist, but fairly well-drained. Planting The best time to plant blackcurrants is in late autumn or early spring – October and November, or March. Try to avoid planting in mid-winter when the ground is frozen. Multiple plants should be spaced 1-1.5m apart, depending on the variety; it is advisable to purchase young bushes of around 2 years in age. To plant a young bush, you should first clear the soil of weeds, and mix garden compost into the top layer. Bare root and container-grown plants should be planted 2cm deeper than previously, to encourage new shoots to grow from the base. If it’s a young plant and you’re planting in winter, you should also prune it back hard upon planting, to around 3cm above soil level, to further encourage new growth. Although this will prevent fruit production in the first year, it will help the plant in the long term. Watering & Feeding It will require watering during hot summers, or during periods of dry weather – although be careful not to overwater it. The plant flowers in spring, so you can add a general well-balanced fertiliser in late winter, to help it out, along with a layer of mulch, to assist the soil in retaining moisture and repressing weeds. Pruning Guidelines Blackcurrant plants should be pruned annually, as well as upon planting, to encourage plenty of new shoots for berries to grow on. The best time to prune a young bush is in autumn or winter. If the plant is growing well, you can get away with simply removing any weak or damaged shoots. However, if your blackcurrant bush is not proving fruitful, you will need to prune it back hard, to stimulate more growth. In this case, aim to trim at least half of the shoots back to ground level. For more established plants, you can conduct a light pruning at the time of berry picking. The main pruning should still take place in winter, when you can remove any dead or unproductive wood and weak shoots. If you’ve got an old blackcurrant bush that’s growing out of hand, prune it back hard, reducing the majority of branches to ground level, and leaving just a few young branches. The plant should recover well, in time. Propagation Hardwood cuttings can take a while to take root but are generally successful in creating new plants. Take cuttings from young, healthy shoots from the current season. Cut lengths of 20-30cm, making the cut just below a bud at the base. Dip the bottom of the cutting into a rooting hormone, and then plant it straight away into a container, or outside into a pre-prepared trench. If planting outside, make sure to choose a sheltered area, and use a garden compost dug into the soil. Plant the cuttings with two-thirds of the material in the soil, and add sand at the base. Keep the soil moist, and leave them to root until the following autumn. Common Problems Unfortunately, there are a few pests common to blackcurrant bushes. Blackcurrant Gall Midge One of these is blackcurrant gall midge, which affects the foliage of the blackcurrant bush in spring and summer. The larvae of these tiny, yellow-brown flies feed on the leaves, causing them to become distorted. Light infestations can be tolerated, and some cultivars, such as ‘Ben Hope’, are resistant. Blackcurrant Big Bud Mite Another pest to watch out for is blackcurrant big bud mite. These strike earlier, usually in late winter; they are microscopic bugs that suck the sap from embryonic leaves, causing buds to swell. Infested buds will usually not flower or produce foliage – remove infected buds as soon as you notice them. Currant Blister Aphid Currant blister aphid is another pest that can cause distorted, blistered and discoloured leaves, often turning them red or yellow. Infestations are most common from April to June. The plant can usually tolerate them, and it will not affect vigour or crop yield. Gooseberry Mildew Blackcurrants are also vulnerable to gooseberry mildew, which can cause white, powdery mildew to develop on foliage and fruit during summer, which turns brown in time. Good ventilation is key to preventing this, so try to keep plants well-spaced, and thin them out by pruning. Remove the ends of any affected material as soon as possible. Birds Birds are another consideration, as they like to eat most parts of the plant. Make sure to pick berries as soon as they are ripe, or else birds will take them all! If you can’t beat them to it, you might need to cover your plant with netting. Hot Periods Berries can be damaged by too much direct sun in hot periods, causing them to develop orange patches. Conversely, cold areas and late frosts can damage spring flowers – try to prevent this by choosing a sheltered spot in the garden for your blackcurrant bush. Harvesting You should pick blackcurrants as soon as the berries appear black and ripe. This will usually happen in July, but depending on the cultivar, can also occur anytime from late June through to August. To pick blackcurrants, you can either pick the berries individually, or in the case of modern cultivars such as ‘Ben Sarek’ and ‘Ben Hope’, you can cut off the berries in bunches, as soon as they’re ready. If blackcurrants are being grown commercially, they will usually be picked by machine, using a straddle harvester, which shakes the branches and strips the fruit from the shoots. It is perfectly fine to freeze blackcurrants – in fact, this is what you should do if you don’t plan on eating them within a few days, to prevent them from spoiling. Simply pop them in the freezer in a tub or bag; you can use frozen blackcurrants to make jams or puddings. Container Growing Blackcurrants Most blackcurrant plants do not do well in containers, due to their expansive size. However, there are some smaller, modern varieties that can be grown successfully in containers – these include ‘Ben Gairn’ and ‘Ben Sarek’. If you’re growing blackcurrants in this way, choose a large container filled with a soil-based compost, and feed your plant a liquid fertiliser every summer. The plant will need to be re-potted approximately every 3 years, in late winter, at which time you should trim the roots, and replace it in fresh compost. References 1. Blackcurrant – Ribes nigrum. (n.d.). University of Minnesota. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://trees.umn.edu/blackcurrant-ribes-nigrum 2. Ribes nigrum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:792873-1
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Introduce Nandina Domestica To Add A Touch Of The Exotic And Welcome Winter Colour
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Nandina Heavenly Bamboo Care Common Problems References Nandina domestica is an evergreen shrub, characterised by clusters of small white flowers, bright red berries, and pinnate leaves that turn red or purple in late autumn and winter. This bushy shrub makes an attractive, dramatic addition to a UK garden, whether in borders, as part of a rock garden, or grown in containers. Wherever it is positioned, it will add a touch of the exotic, and provide welcome winter colour. The plant is winter hardy, and tolerant of high and low temperatures, making it easy to grow in the UK climate. Once established, it requires very little pruning or ongoing care and therefore makes for an easy, ornamental addition to your garden. Overview Botanical Name Nandina domestica Common Name(s) Heavenly Bamboo, Sacred Bamboo Plant Type Shrub Native Area China and Japan Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen, lance-shaped leaflets Flowers Star-shaped white flowers When To Sow April, May, October Flowering Months July, August When To Prune May, June Nandina domestica is a member of the Berberidaceae (Barberry) family and originates from central China and Japan.1 There are dozens of varieties, with some of the most popular including ‘Fire Power’, ‘Gulf Stream’, ‘Twilight’, ‘Sunset’ and ‘Tuscan Flame’, although only around 10 varieties are common in the UK. Different varieties produce different colours of foliage, ranging from orange and gold, to red and purple. ‘Fire Power’ The leaves change colour throughout the year but are typically red or pink in spring when young, green during summer, and then turn amber, red and purple again, as winter takes hold. As well as the erect, leathery lance-shaped leaflets, in warm weather the plant also produces white, star-shaped flowers, which grow in large panicles in July and August. The flowers are not particularly showy, but their nectar will still attract pollinators to your garden. Bright red berries of approximately 5–10mm also appear after flowering, in late autumn and winter. It is often placed near doorways in Japan; said to protect and dispel the bad dreams of the inhabitants.2 N. domestica is also known as ‘Heavenly Bamboo’, or ‘Sacred Bamboo’ – despite not being a bamboo of any kind. This name derives from the fact that it grows upright, in a similar fashion to bamboo. The plant grows to an ultimate height of around 1.5m and to a similar spread. However, it is reasonably slow-growing and can take up to 20 years to reach this size. Habitat & Growing Conditions N. domestica’s natural habitat is mostly the mountain forests of eastern Asia, including the Himalayas, central China and Japan.3 The plant prefers a sunny, sheltered climate for growing, with a rich, moist soil. How To Grow Nandina N. domestica makes an ideal border plant, and many dwarf varieties are also well-suited to container growth. Once established, heavenly bamboo is a low-maintenance plant, and requires very little ongoing care. It should not require feeding, fertilising or watering, except in periods of drought. The best way to propagate N. domestica is either by seed or semi-hardwood cutting. Growing From Seed If propagating by seed, you should do this in either mid-spring to early summer, or in early autumn, around September time. You should prepare the ground for planting seeds by turning the soil over in advance, and covering it with plastic or fleece, to warm the soil and suppress weeds. Rake the surface, and water the soil, then drill small holes using a cane, in which to plant your seeds. Once planted, rake the loose soil back over your seeds. Keep them well-watered whilst they are growing. Taking Cuttings If you prefer to propagate by taking cuttings, you should take these during late summer, or early autumn, from the current season’s growth. You can make sure you have plenty of new growth to choose from by pruning the plant back hard that spring. Choose healthy-looking shoots that are hard at the base, but soft at the tip, and make the cut just below a leaf, using sharp secateurs. Snip lengths of approximately 15cm. Dip the bottom of the cuttings in a rooting hormone, before planting them into a container filled with cuttings compost. Water well, and keep the cuttings warm and covered until they take root. Planting Out The best time to plant nandina depends on whether you’re planting seeds or cuttings. Seeds should generally be planted into soil in late spring, whilst cuttings should be taken as semi-hardwood in early autumn, and planted immediately into cuttings compost. Upon planting, you should always water your N. domestica well, and make sure to keep the soil moist but well-drained during the initial growing period. Heavenly Bamboo Care N. domestica is hardy in the UK climate and can tolerate temperatures between the extremes of cold and warmth. Exposure It can therefore be left outside year-round, and does not generally need to be protected from frost over winter, unless in a particularly cold or exposed position. Although it can tolerate low temperatures and partial shade, N. domestica much prefers full sun, so you should try to choose an east, west or south-facing location in your garden, if possible. “If choosing an easterly aspect, make sure that it has some protection from cold winter easterly winds,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In general, plant somewhere bright but sheltered, as Nandina will struggle to thrive in a windy location, particularly relevant in coastal or upland areas.” The plant prefers a sheltered spot, away from any cold, drying winds. Soil Preference Heavenly bamboo will grow in almost all soil types and pHs, including sand and clay – although it does not really like chalk. It prefers its soil to be rich and moist, but, as with most plants, does not like to be waterlogged, so make sure it has sufficient drainage. Common Problems N. domestica is generally a hardy plant, with few common pests. Viruses It may, however, be vulnerable to certain plant viruses, which can cause leaf distortion and discolouration. If your heavenly bamboo has a virus, you may notice browning foliage or spots on the leaves, signs of stunted stems, distorted flowers, or malformed berries. The only way to tackle a plant virus is to remove the infected plant, to prevent it from spreading. Keep the area around your plant free from weeds, as these can often store infections. Leaf Drop Another problem you may notice with your N. domestica is leaf drop. This most often happens because the location of your plant is too cold or shaded, or too exposed to the wind. Move your plant to a sunnier, more sheltered position, and it should soon recover. If the soil is dry, you may need to water your plant more – particularly if you’re experiencing a period of drought. References 1. Nandina domestica. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/nandina-domestica/ 2. Kennedy, C. (2020, March 20). Heavenly Bamboo is a graceful shrub, not a true bamboo. Seattle Japanese Garden. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.seattlejapanesegarden.org/blog/2017/11/20/heavenly-bamboo-is-a-graceful-shrub-not-a-true-bamboo 3. Nandina domestica. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:107544-1
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